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Goodbye, disposable fashion. Hello, circular solutions
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Goodbye, disposable fashion. Hello, circular solutions
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GOODBYE, DISPOSABLE FASHION. HELLO, CIRCULAR SOLUTIONS
by
Bena Chen
A Thesis Presented to the
FACULTY OF THE USC ANNENBERG SCHOOL FOR
COMMUNICATION AND JOURNALISM
UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
In Partial Fulfillment of the
Requirements for the Degree
MASTER OF ARTS
(STRATEGIC PUBLIC RELATIONS)
May 2021
Copyright 2021 Bena Chen
ii
Acknowledgments
This final version would not have been possible without the unwavering guidance and
encouragement from my thesis committee. Words cannot describe how thankful I am to my
chairperson, Jennifer Floto, for her support and advice throughout the thesis process. I am
incredibly grateful for her facilitation of the focus group discussion, our one-on-one zoom
meetings, and her confidence in my abilities. I would also like to extend my gratitude to my thesis
committee member, Brenda Lynch, for her patience and insightful suggestions. Next, I would like
to thank my third committee member, Laura Castaneda, for her appreciated feedback and ideas to
further my research.
A special thank you to the poll survey and focus group participants during Professor Floto’s
Fall 2020 Food, Fashion and Fun class for their refreshing honesty. I am extremely appreciative to
FABSCRAP’s Community Coordinator Rachael Stein for sharing her knowledge. Thank you so
much to Jasmine Sears for serving as my industry expert. Finally, a big thanks to Brooke Furniss
for her Public Relations and Advertising insights.
iii
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments ii
List of Figures v
Abstract vi
Research Methodologies vii
The Green Glossary viii
Introduction: The Case for Circular Fashion 1
Chapter 1: Behind the Scenes of the Apparel Industry 3
The Biggest Scandal in Fashion History: Waste, Pollution, and Toxicity 3
The Problem with Throw-Away Culture 7
Fashion Brands Gets #Cancelled 9
The Customers of Tomorrow: Millennials and Generation Z 14
Chapter 2: Primary Research 17
Millennials and Generation Z Poll Questions 17
Focus Group Data and Results 19
Focus Group Key Takeaways and Insights 23
Research Limitations 24
Chapter 3: A Circular Solution to a Trashy Problem 25
Why the Apparel Supply Chain is Overdue for an Overhaul? 25
Fashion Forward Solutions: A Case for Circular Fashions 26
Zero Waste: Designing out Waste 27
Circulation of Clothing: Reuse, Rental, and Repair 28
Regenerative Infrastructures: Textile Recycling 29
Dispelling Greenwashing through Radical Transparency and Traceability 30
Chapter 4: Case Studies 35
FABSCRAP: One Brand’s Scraps are Another Person’s Treasure 35
For Days: Closing the Loop on Fashion for Better Days 38
Patagonia: Passion at the Root, Sustainability at the Core 40
Naysayers of Circular Solutions 44
Conclusion 45
References 49
iv
Appendices 58
Appendix A: Rachael Stein Interview Transcript 58
Appendix B: Jasmine Sears Interview Transcript 65
Appendix C: Brooke Furniss Interview Transcript 70
v
List of Figures
Figure 1: An Open Letter to Burberry from ThredUp Tweet 9
Figure 2: Word of the Week is #Burnberry Tweet 10
Figure 3: Big Corporation’s Wasteful Practices Tweet 10
Figure 4: Calling for Change from Burberry Tweet 10
Figure 5: Boycotting Burberry Tweet 11
Figure 6: Opinion about H&M’s Sustainability Tweet 12
Figure 7: Opinion about H&M Eco-line Tweet 12
Figure 8: Opinion about H&M’s Subscription Tweet 12
Figure 9: Bar Graph: Which of the following options do you consider the most when 18
purchasing clothing?
Figure 10: Bar Graph: How important is sustainability when purchasing clothing? 19
Figure 11: The Linear Supply Chain of Fast Fashion 25
Figure 12: Circular Fashion Supply Chain Model 27
Figure 13: That’s Suspicious: Top 10 Signs of Greenwashing Social Media Checklist 33
vi
Abstract
Sustainability has become a marketing buzzword. In light of the negative publicity on social media
and protests from environmental activist groups, the apparel industry launched “green” initiatives
with plenty of promises but little action. Everyday consumers are becoming increasingly skeptical
of eco-friendly claims and expressing their unapologetic opinions about corporations online. One
thing is loud and clear; disposable fashion is no longer trendy. The fashion industry needs to
rethink its present linear supply chain to address waste, pollution, and toxicity. Now more than
ever, the fashion industry has a responsibility to the environment and future generations to consider
long-lasting circular solutions. This white paper will argue that the apparel and textile industry
should consider more transparent closed-loop solutions such as designing out waste and pollution,
circulation of clothing, investment in vital infrastructures and a third-party assessment of
environmental and social performance. A poll survey (n = 29) and a focus group (n = 16) were
administered to gather an in-depth understanding of Millennials’ and Gen Z’s opinion about
sustainability. Additionally, three interviews were conducted with the Community Coordinator at
FABSCRAP and two University of Southern California students to gather further insights into the
sustainability and the fashion industry. Three case studies featuring brands such as FABSCRAP,
For Days and Patagonia were also analyzed for existing circular practices.
Keywords: greenwashing, sustainability, textile waste, transparency, and supply chain
vii
Research Methodologies
The study was conducted through the following primary and secondary research methods:
a. Reviews of scholarly journal articles, books, websites, professional blogs, and videos related
to fashion, sustainability, transparency, circular fashion, supply chain, textile waste,
fashion industry’s ethical and environmental impact.
b. An interview with Rachael Stein, Community Coordinator at FABSCRAP, Jasmine Sears,
Former Vice President of Fashion Industry Association and University of Southern
California senior undergraduate student pursuing Environmental Studies, Jasmine Sears
and Brooke Furniss, Public Relations and Advertising graduate candidate.
c. A fashion sustainability focus study and poll questions administered on September 30
th
through Professor Jennifer Floto’s Food, Fashion, Fun! virtual course at the University of
Southern California. Participants were asked a series of questions to gather information
about Millennials and Generation Z’s shopping habits, interest in sustainability and
thoughts about sustainable fashion and FABSCRAP’s solution to textile waste.
d. Case studies of a nonprofit organization, FABSCRAP, sustainable clothing brand, For Days,
and clothing and gear retailer, Patagonia.
viii
The Green Glossary
Cancel Culture (Call-out culture): The practice of rejecting or boycotting a public figure, brand
or entity on social media or in-person because they used offensive language or did something
controversial (Romano).
Circular Fashion (Closed Loop Fashion): A system where clothing remains in circulation for a
long time before safely returning to the environment without socioeconomic and ecological
consequences (Stanton). Circular Fashion encompasses reusing, repairing, renting, and recycling.
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR): A regulatory business model to hold organizations
responsible to themselves, stakeholders and the public. Through CSR initiatives, philanthropy, and
volunteer efforts, businesses can benefit society while boosting their public image.
Disposable Fashion: Cheap and low-quality garments designed to be worn only a few times
before tossing it into the garbage because it no longer fits, out-of-season or for cosmetic reasons.
Ecological Footprint: A way to measure the impact of activities from individuals, corporations,
and countries on the environment, including the amount of carbon emissions and natural resources
consumption (Lim).
Fast Fashion: The mass production of inexpensive, low-quality and trendy garments from retailers
based on fleeting trends from the runway shows and designers.
ix
Greenwashing: A form of marketing tactic to deceive or mislead the public about a corporation’s
“eco-friendly” initiatives or products while engaging in unsustainable practices (Watson).
Greenhouse Gases: Some examples of greenhouse gases include carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous
oxide and more. When these different types of gases are trap in the atmosphere, it can lead to
climate change (“Reality Check: Are”).
Linear Supply Chain: The flow of goods and services with a short life cycle (take-make-throw).
This current business model for fashion companies has several ethical and environmental
implications (Stanton).
Regenerative Infrastructure (Restorative Infrastructure): A holistic process that enables
recycling of textiles into another textile with no environmental harm to the planet.
Slacktivism (Clicktivism): The practice of liking, retweeting, and sharing to support a social or
political cause on social media or online petition. Slacktivism is known as one of “the laziest forms
of activism” because it requires minimal to no effort or commitment (Fisher).
Supply Chain: Series of organizations, factories, individuals and natural resources involved in the
design, production and distribution of a good or service. The supply chain of the apparel industry
includes the following stages: product development, procurement of raw materials, manufacturing
of clothes, distribution of goods, retailers, and consumers.
x
Sustainability: The long-term commitment toward ecological preservation without the exhaustion
of natural resources or a negative environmental impact.
Pre-consumer Textile Waste: Leftover fabrics and remaining materials from the manufacturing
process before garments are ready for consumers. Some examples within the apparel and textile
industry include fabric trimmings, sample mock-up, headers, buttons, and more (Berthon).
Post-consumer Textile Waste (End-of-life Product): When consumers dispose of previously
worn clothing into the garbage, for example, garments that no longer fit them perfectly, out-of-
season, damaged, etc. (Hickman).
Textile Rental: A subscription or leasing service where individuals get access to clothing pieces
for a certain time. It is considered an emerging sustainable option amongst Generation Z and
Millennials.
Zero-Waste Designs: Garments created with little to no textile waste through intentional planning,
mock-ups, and blueprint designs. Simply put, every fabric scrap is used during the design and
production process (Yen).
1
Introduction: The Case for Circular Fashion
It has been over five years since the release of the fast-fashion documentary, The True Cost
(Life Is My Movie Entertainment). The film spotlighted the human and environmental price tag of
fleeting trends and low-quality garments. Whether it is the absurd amount of textile waste sent to
landfills and incinerators, pollution of synthetic fibers and dyes in waterways or unethical working
conditions, the garment industry is not short of controversies. While a few fashion brands have
made strides toward sustainable practices, some have adopted greenwashing tactics – an
overpromising embellishment to intentionally profit off sustainable efforts while maintaining
positive brand perception (De Jong et al.). Many fashion retailers pay lip service to establish
themselves as an “eco-conscious” brand without taking the necessary accountability for its
environmental footprint (Mehar). However, these counterfeit ploys do not address systemic
problems such as fast-fashion framework and lack of transparency (“Fashion Transparency
Index”).
It is becoming increasingly conspicuous that the current linear (take-make-throw)
paradigm of disposable fashion is far from sustainable. Consequently, circular fashion is an
emerging concept gaining traction as a viable solution to the harmful practices within the apparel
and textile sector. It is referred to as a restorative system where garments “are used and circulated
responsibly and effectively in society for a long time before safety to the environment when no
longer of human use” (Stanton). This complex framework is contingent on adopting sustainable
strategies, zero-waste designs, recycling manufacturing services, resource recovery, and product-
life extension through repairing (Koszewska, 337). In other words, a circular supply chain is the
embodiment of the notable R’s (reduce, reuse, rental, repair, and recycle).
2
The notion of circular fashion was based on the European Union’s Circular Economy
Action Plan, an ambitious agenda to curb the environmental footprint within countries in the
European Union (“European Commission Adopts”). Specifically, the plan outlined a series of
actionable targets for industries and legislative regulations to phase out single-use products starting
in December 2015. A circularity model sought to establish less trashy practices by designing long-
lasting goods, educating everyday consumers about different products, and expanding on
regenerative systems, emphasizing reuse, repair, and recycling (“European Commission Adopts”).
Shifting away from a throwaway society to a more circular approach has many advantages:
eliminating synthetic chemicals, reducing waste in landfills, and retrieving resources. Similar to
the countries in the European Union, fashion retailers can benefit immensely from a closed-loop
and transparent approach.
This paper will argue that apparel and textile brands consider circular solutions to address
their environmental and social impact. More importantly, circularity is the direction in which
fashion is heading, as young consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainability. Even
though these changes will not miraculously materialize overnight, clothing retailers must take the
following steps toward a greener and cyclical direction: First of all, fashion and apparel brands
should design out waste and pollution from their supply chain. Another component of circularity
is to ensure materials are in rotation for an extended time by promoting reuse, rental and repair.
Furthermore, the clothing sector should invest in innovative regenerative systems to recycle fibers,
reports the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Most importantly, fashion brands should employ third-
party assessment of environmental and social performance to combat greenwashing and showcase
transparency through factual data and statistics.
3
To be transparent and sincere communicators, Public Relations practitioners must be
cognizant of the trends and criticisms facing the ever-changing fashion and apparel industry. As
the next generation of customers become more skeptical of sustainable claims from clothing
retailers and increasingly concerned about the environment, brands need to stay vigilant to the
Generation Z and Millennials’ opinion on social media or risk getting #canceled (CITE). The
results from the primary and secondary research methodologies will provide an understanding of
the perception of sustainability within the fashion sector. This paper can serve as a way to
strengthen clothing retailers’ ongoing communication about sustainable Corporate Social
Responsibility and develop credibly with stakeholders.
The Biggest Scandal in Fashion History: Waste, Pollution, and Toxicity
Every second of every day, one garbage truck worth of textile is either incinerated or tossed
away into the landfill on a global scale, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Textile
cremation produces 2,988 pounds of carbon emissions per hour, far more harmful than fossil fuels
(Segran). On the other hand, clothes in disposal sites can take anywhere from 20 to 200 years to
rot before completely breaking down (Uren). According to the United Nations Environment
Programme, the fashion industry generates 10% of global greenhouse gas, more than combined
emissions from international flights and maritime freight shipping. At the current pace, the apparel
industry’s total carbon emission is expected to skyrocket 50% by 2030, reported the World Bank.
The supply chain in the fast fashion industry is far from simplistic but actually rather
complicated. According to McKinsey & Company, an apparel and textile business reports
anywhere from 1,000 to 2,000 suppliers, not to mention an additional 20,000 to 50,000 sub-
suppliers that are a part of its supply cycle. Fashion retailers usually work with more than hundreds
and thousands of garment factories abroad, including suppliers that cut, sew and assemble
4
garments. That does not include suppliers and facilities that weave, dye, print, spin yarn, grow
materials, and complete the garment. (“Fashion Transparency Index”). Due to the massive amounts
of suppliers and sub-suppliers, international shipping during manufacturing and production can
account for 2.2% of global greenhouse gas emissions based on statistics from the United Nations
International Maritime Organization (“World Nations Agree”).
During my interview with Jasmine Sears, former Vice President of the Fashion Institute
Association, and current University of Southern California student, said in an interview that
“[Most] emissions come from large corporations. They create emissions in the atmosphere. They
are the ones creating the most waste, so if you are going to address the issue instead of coming
from an individual level like in the household, you have to address it at the main cause, which is
corporations.” (65) One leading contributor to greenhouse gas emissions is the fast fashion
industry, which mass-produces inexpensive, low-quality garments quickly in response to trends
from runway shows and designers. The incineration and overproduction of dispensable fashion
have led to the surge of carbon emissions and directly affect the quality of life of marginalized
communities.
The infuriating part of dispensable fashion is that international and low-income
communities are the dumping grounds for fast fashion. These areas are disproportionately facing
the environmental ramifications of disposable and affordable clothes. Headlines from news articles
such as “East Africa Doesn’t Want Your Hand-Me-Downs'' and “Nearly 80% of US incinerators
located in marginalized communities, report revealed” well-illustrate another dark side of fast
fashion: waste (Banigan and Li). Even though many individuals may feel good about donating to
thrift and charity shops, they may be surprised to find out that bales of fashion cast-offs are sold
to countries across the continent like Sub-Saharan Africa. The United States Environmental
5
Protection Agency reported 700,000 tons of second-hand clothing exported to international
countries yearly. However, Africa’s market is so saturated that shores and wastelands are
brimming with used garments, which prompted the East African Community to ban importing
used clothing by 2019 (De Freytas-Tamura).
A report from the Global Alliance for Incinerator Alternatives (GAIA) uncovered that a
massive 79% of the 73 “waste-to-energy” incinerators are near communities of color and
individuals with low socioeconomic statuses (Li). “Approximately three-fifths of all clothing
produced ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made” (Wicker). The burning
of perfectly new ready-to-wear garb is not only mind-boggling, but can also lead to carcinogenic,
respiratory, and other health-related issues in the neighborhoods bordering the waste facilities and
power plants (Claudio). Without a doubt, fashion corporations should find healthier and proper
ways of handling end-of-life clothing besides landfills and incinerators.
In addition to the improper disposal of textiles, the apparel industry is responsible for 20%
of global water pollution (“Putting the brakes”). An astonishing 80% to 90% of wastewater does
receive proper treatment before returning into the ecosystem (Scott). Precisely, the global textile
industry dispenses 40,000 to 50,000 tons of untreated dyes back into the environment (“IMPACT
OF DYES”). Lack of regulating the clothing treatment processes is a significant source of chemical
dyes — a toxic concoction of pigments with dire consequences used by textile corporations. The
irreversible damages of artificial dyes consisted of undrinkable rivers, skin irritation, health issues
and decreased life span for communities that rely on the water source (Ranson). The remaining
chemical dyes are not safe for customers who have to wear these clothes. When consumers wash
their clothing in the laundry machine, residual dyes go into the biosphere along with an additional
byproduct, microplastics.
6
There is a strong likelihood that you are ingesting tiny plastics from your clothes. A
terrifying study conducted by the University of Newcastle in Australia revealed that people
consume an average of 2,000 microplastics particles a week around the world, the equivalent of
one plastic credit card (Palanisami). The research cited washing synthetic clothing as the primary
culprit behind releasing 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean (McFall-Johnsen). In fact, 63%
of overall textiles are made with artificial and non-renewable threads such as polyester, nylon,
spandex, and acrylic. The remaining 37% of fabric contents derived from cotton (Sandin and
Peters). Conventional cotton requires an extensive combination of water and pesticides. Even
though cotton alone accounts for 2.3% of global agricultural land, it requires 16% of global
pesticides (The Environmental Justice). Due to the agricultural runoffs from cotton farms, many
hazardous chemicals wind up into the waterways. Like dyeing practices, pesticides have
significantly increased the risk of health complications (Tseng et al.). Agricultural workers with
pesticide exposure are more susceptible to thyroid disease, leukemia, lymphoma, thyroid diseases,
skin, brain cancer, etc. (The Environmental Justice).
Along with dye and agricultural workers, garment employees in textile factories are also
victims of the clothing industry. With the rise of globalization, 97% of garments sold in the United
States are outsourced to international countries, according to the American Apparel and Footwear
Association (Wee). Because of competitive advantage, brands with a fast-fashion model can get
away with squeezing profit margins from suppliers and demanding low-priced goods at a faster
pace. Fashion retailers have been scrutinized for taking advantage of unregulated labor practices
such as “chasing cheap labor,” providing starvation wages, dismissing human rights violations and
complicity with government legislation to deny labor unions (Perry and Towers). Over 4.4 million
apparel workers across 3,000 facilities earn a mere 32 cents per hour and $68 a month (Yardley).
7
Many employees also work in poor and unsafe working conditions, as seen in the Rana Plaza
factory collapse in Bangladesh, which led to 1,100 deaths and 2,500 injuries (Thomas).
While some fashion brands have made strides toward sustainable practices, some have
started to adopt greenwashing techniques. In response to the negative media attention, the apparel
industry rolled out small-scale sustainable brands and clothing lines with deceptively green
marketing (Shim et al). This deception is known as greenwashing, an overpromising
embellishment to intentionally profit off sustainable initiatives while maintaining a positive public
image (De Jong et al.). Many fashion brands have established themselves as eco-conscious brands
without taking accountability for their environmental footprint. In addition to the greenwashing
tactics, many brands engage in information dumping, a strategy to overload information with filler
and fluffy explanations to conceal essential information from stakeholders (“Fashion Transparency
Index”). In response to the apparel and textile industry, a London-based nonprofit organization,
Fashion Revolution, launched social media campaigns, #WhoMadeMyClothes and
#WhatsinmyClothes, to urge customers to ask retailers critical questions about the garment
workers behind the clothes and the raw materials used in the production process (“Fashion
Revolution”).
The Problem with Throw-Away Culture
“My grandmother has only one shirt in her wardrobe. My mother has three. My daughter’s
generation, 50. And 48% of them, she never wears” – Jack Ma, Co-founder and former Executive
Chairman of Alibaba Group
From the early to mid-1900s, Americans spent roughly 12% to 14% of their clothes' annual
income. Today, consumers in the United States spend an average of 3% of their income on apparel
(Tyner). Despite the cost of clothing going down, clothing consumption has significantly
increased. In the early 1990s, one person living in the United States purchased 40 garments per
8
year. By the end of the 20
th
century, the number rose to a whopping average of 65 items. According
to a 2016 ClosetMaid survey of 1,000 U.S. women aged 18 to 55, the average wardrobe houses
103 pieces and 12% of garments still have a price tag. Due to the 52 micro seasons of the fast
fashion industry, consumers can purchase a gargantuan amount of inexpensive, low-quality and
trendy haute couture replicas.
From poodle skirts to mini dresses and multi-color bucket hats to houndstooth sweater
vests and 90s mom jeans, fashion has always been a fun way to express yourself and feel
marvelous. Beneath the glitz and glam of designer fashion shows and runway lies the unflattering
angle to fashion: throwaway mentality. Due to fleeting trends, shoppers buy clothes at an
exponential rate and keep them for a short time before discarding them (Chadhuri). The average
American throws away 37 kilograms or 81.5 pounds of clothes every year (Beall). An estimated
92 million tons of textile waste is created globally on an annual basis. Researchers predicted that
textile waste would skyrocket to 134 million tons per year by 2030 (Beall). As the fashion sector’s
environmental and ethical harm become public information, many individuals have been eco-
shamed to make more environmentally friendly practices.
While examining an individual’s textile consumption is crucial, fashion brands are the main
culprit behind the real faux pas. Founder and CEO of FABSCRAP, Jessica Schreiber said, “For
every pound of waste that consumers throw away, a business throws away 40 pounds to get the
product” (NowThis). In other words, commercial waste is 40 times higher than residential waste.
Fashion brands have incredibly wasteful practices throughout their supply chain. However, these
estimates only account for leftover fabrics and materials during the pre-production and design
process. This begs the question: what happens to unsold inventory and out-of-season clothes?
9
Fashion Brands Gets #Cancelled
In the past few years, several journalists and media outlets have criticized luxury brands
and fast-fashion giants for destroying unsold merchandise while marketing their so-called
“sustainable” efforts (Liber, Siegle, Segran). For example, Burberry launched its “Make Fashion
Circular” in May 2018, intending to eliminate waste from its manufacturing process by recycling
and reusing materials. Shortly after the green announcement, Burberry’s was under fire for
incinerating $36.8 million worth of merchandise to prevent “wrong people” from “reselling and
stealing” it (Siegle). When the luxury plaid designer destroyed clothes and accessories, its action
was the exact opposite of circular fashion. Many enraged customers and environmental activists
shared their disappointment and discontent on Twitter using the hashtag Burnberry – branding
Burberry as the luxury fashion company that burns its unused clothes. The following tweets are
relevant screenshots from individuals on Twitter who used the #Burnberry:
Figure 1: An Open Letter to Burberry from ThredUp Tweet
The top tweet was from the largest consignment and thrift store, ThredUp. The online
company wrote a letter to Burberry welcoming them to send any unsold or out-of-season
merchandise to ThredUp; all of the proceeds will go directly toward an environmental organization
of Burberry’s choice. The Twitter post received immense praise and support with 13 comments,
211 retweets, and 297 likes.
10
Figure 2: Word of the Week is #Burnberry Tweet
Under the #Burnberry, three tweets called attention toward Burberry for engaging in
greenwashing, specifically, burning products while positioning themselves as a company with
sustainable “corporate social responsibility.”
Figure 3: Big Corporation’s Wasteful Practices Tweet
An overwhelming 32 out of 94 tweets attached news articles, videos, and blog posts to their
tweet. Most of the articles reported information related to #Burnberry, such as Burberry burning
its unsold inventory, similar incinerating practices across the textile and apparel industry, the
growing environmental waste problem, and ThredUp’s letter to Burberry.
Figure 4: Calling for Change from Burberry Tweet
Like many other tweets, the subsequent tweet indicated that Burberry would have to rethink
its “exclusive” brand strategy. Some individuals were angry and perplexed that the designer
11
company did not donate its clothes to charitable organizations, homeless shelters, and thrift stores.
Meanwhile, some people on Twitter also pointed out that Burberry’s incineration of clothes is
elitism. More specifically, Burberry wanted to maintain this exclusive nature while keeping
individuals with low-socioeconomic status from accessing these high-end pieces.
Figure 5: Boycotting Burberry Tweet
Some of the tweets included a call to boycott Burberry for its burning practices. Under
#Burnberry, three out of 94 Twitter users were so disappointed about Burberry’s actions that they
decided never to purchase a Burberry product again.
In reality, these incineration practices take place across multiple clothing brands like Urban
Outfitters, Eddie Bauer, Walmart, Michael Kors, JCPenney, Victoria’s Secret, and more (Liber).
Another example of greenwashing is H&M’s Conscious Collection. Underneath the website’s
sustainability section, the fast-fashion giant boasts a fashionable and comfortable green clothing
line made entirely from organic materials. However, a Danish media outlet Operation X revealed
that H&M has been demolishing more than 60 tons of unused and out-of-season inventory in its
Sweden-based processing facility since 2013 (Liber). In 2018, the fast-fashion company made
headlines when the company reported 4.3 billion piles of unsold shirts, dresses, and accessories.
Even though the bad publicity surrounding the H&M occurred two years ago, the ramifications
are clear. The accompanying screenshots are recent tweets from Twitter, which showcase high
levels of skepticism and low levels of trust about current H&M’s sustainability initiatives:
12
Figure 6: Opinion about H&M’s Sustainability Tweet
Figure 7: Opinion about H&M Eco-line Tweet
Figure 8: Opinion about H&M’s Subscription Tweet
Based on the following three tweets, there was widespread skepticism about H&M’s
greenwashing efforts and low trust. One tweet pointed out that fast fashion is the opposite of a
sustainable model. Another tweet indicated that no matter how many “environmentally-friendly”
lines they launch, overproduction is the direct opposite of sustainability. The final tweet alleged
that the fast-fashion giant’s subscription plan is a form of greenwashing if it is encouraging
consumers to purchase clothes rather than offering rentals. Despite H&M’s sustainability
announcements, many consumers are still dubious of these claims. Over the past few years, the
13
fast-fashion giant has been going through a tough financial time. In 2018, the Sweden-based brand
saw a 62% drop compared to the previous year (Hanbury). To be specific, H&M had $4.3 Billion
in unsold inventory at its warehouses (Paton). Poor inventory management and lack of product
options have led to the decline of H&M sales and deterred customers.
In addition to negative publicity on social media, environmental activist groups are taking
it to the streets to express their discontent with the apparel and textile sector. One notable activist
group is Extinction Rebellion, a worldwide environmental group with three goals: transparent
communication about climate change from legislators, reduction in greenhouse gas emissions to
zero by 2025, and global implementation of climate priorities (Paton). As fashion companies are
the biggest producers of carbon emission, Extinction Rebellion (XR) has been taunting brands to
assist with maintaining global warming levels under the 1.5 Celsius degree limit per the Paris
Agreement (Chan). In September 2019, XR protestors dressed in all-black ensembles threw a
funeral for fashion in Trafalgar Square, London. Some environmental activists were covered in
fake blood outside of London Fashion Week venues to represent past and future lives lost to
climate change. Meanwhile, others waved written signs to onlookers like “No fashion on a dead
planet,” “fashion = ecocide,” and “repair, rewear, rebel” (Farra).
Inspired by the Extinction Rebellion protest in London, Extinction Rebellion Youth hosted
its own sustainable runway show on NYC streets. During New York Fashion Week in February
2019, the XR Youth group fling their jackets to unveil upcycled and secondhand garbs. Outside of
the venues, the group of high school students strutted the sidewalks while showing off their
sustainable outfits. Some of the garments were upcycled from nonbiodegradable bubble wrap,
plastic shopping bags, McDonald’s take-out bags, fliers, and used fabrics. After the performance,
the models insisted that fashion brands stop using nonrenewable fibers, achieve carbon neutrality
14
by 2025, adopt a circular supply chain that respects human rights and fair wages (Farra). Sixteen-
year-old Edie Fine, the organizer of the XR Youth demonstration, said, “We’re teenagers who
designed a 100% sustainable show in a small-time frame…If we can do it, brands with many more
resources can do it too” (Farra). As young people like XR Youths become increasingly passionate
about sustainability, fashion brands should pay attention to the next generation’s concerns.
The Customers of Tomorrow: Millennials and Generation Z
Millennials (b. 1981 – 1996) and Generation Z (b. 1996 – 2015) are active consumers,
eventual corporate leaders, and the next generation of changemakers (LoDuca). Compared to
previous generations, younger consumers are the driving force behind sustainable development
within apparel retailers. Cone Communications revealed 87% of surveyed Millennials expect
companies to devote efforts to pressing environmental and social issues (Fatemi). Similarly, 93%
of Gen Z also believe corporations should take a stance on environmental issues, according to a
UNIDAYS survey. In particular, Gen Z wants to see brands take measurable growth and actionable
steps to address climate change such as investment in ecological infrastructure to implement
company-wide sustainable regulations (LoDuca).
The perspectives of Millennials and Gen Z consumers should not be ignored. Both market
groups have a combined spending power of $350 billion in the United States (Amed et al.).
According to a 2019 report from First Insight, 62% of Generation Z and Millennials prefer to buy
from sustainable brands (Jezerc). Some young consumers are voting with their wallets when they
purchase from brands that align with their values. For example, 59% of Gen Z and 57% of
Millennials are buying upcycled products, the process of “using discarded objects or materials to
create a product of a higher quality or perceived value than the original” (Petro).
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Cost-conscious and eco-friendly Gen Z and Millennials also recognize other avenues for
sustainable products at a low price point. Almost half — 48% of Millennials and 46% of Gen Z
— are shopping at companies with resale and consignment business models (Petro). Instead of
shopping brand-new, many younger consumers purchase used clothes as an affordable alternative
to sustainable products and find one-of-a-kind vintage pieces (Rjis). This shift in shopping habits
is visible through recent popularity with clothing rental services, online second-hand retailers
(Depop, Poshmark, TheRealReal, ThredUp), thrift, and consignment stores. Another emerging
digital commerce trend is a peer-to-peer marketplace, where people swap clothing on online and
social media platforms. According to a 2019 survey from First Insight, 29% of Gen Z and 24% of
Millennials purchased from family members, friends, peers, and even strangers. However, these
numbers are expected to rise in the coming years (Petro). Within the next ten years, sales at retailers
with vintage and used clothing are projected to grow 185%, outpacing fast fashion companies
(Park and Martinez).
As misinformation permeates across different sectors, younger generations are craving
honest and transparent corporate communication. In fact, 90% of Millennials and Gen Z want
truthful information about merchandise reported by the Consumer Goods Forum and Futerra
(Phang and Green). With the spread of fake news and high skepticism, transparent business
practices are especially vital for fostering brand love amongst both market segments (LoDuca).
Another way to cultivate brand love with Generation Z and Millennials is through authentic
Corporate Social Responsibility: “brand’s devotion toward the employee and consumer’s value
through a green strategy aimed at the natural environment while considering economic, social and
cultural perspectives” (Tseng et al.). Of those surveyed, 82% said CSR was crucial and one of the
main deciding factors on which brand was their favorite (The Atlantic).
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That being said, research also indicated that the younger generations are becoming
increasingly doubtful of disingenuous sustainable CSR efforts like greenwashing (De Jong et al.).
As noted earlier, greenwashing has become a marketing gimmick for fashion brands to mitigate
negative publicity surrounding its waste, pollution and unethical actions. The apparel and textile
industry should ensure that its CSR aligns with its efforts to showcase authentic commitment to
sustainability and ethical practices. Generation Z and Millennials are less likely to trust fashion
brands’ claims. As founded in a recent survey by WARC, over 75% of respondents recalled stories
about unethical and irresponsible practices from clothing retailers (Rijs). An additional 40% of
young consumers in the United Kingdom had difficulty distinguishing which brands have ethical
practices. More than 30% of respondents want transparency and authenticity from fashion brands
(Rijs). In addition to high skepticism and low trust, The Atlantic reports that Millennials and
Generation Z are less likely to exhibit brand loyalty (“New Research: Gen Z”).
Aside from sharing #OOTD (Outfit of the Day), Millennials and Gen Z use social media
to stay woke and express their unfiltered opinions. In the hope of driving more sustainable and
ethical changes, the younger generation utilizes slacktivism, “the practice of digital activism
supporting a political or social cause by means such as social media or online petition,
characterizing [minimal] effort or commitment” (Shaburishvili). Notably, environmental
movements like Saving the Arctic, People’s Climate March, and Fridays for Future stem.
Simultaneously, young people also promote cancel culture, the practice of “rejecting or canceling
a person, brand and entity either on social media or in the real world” (Lobo). Based on a survey
from CompareCards, the tendency of boycotting companies increased with age. Roughly 51% of
Gen Z and 52% of Millennials are refraining support from at least one brand compared to 37% of
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Gen X (b. 1965 – 1980), 22% of Baby Boomers (b. 1946 - 1964) and 16% of the Silent Generation
(b. 1928 - 1945) (“Nearly 4 in 10”).
Advertising and Public Relations graduate student Brooke Furniss said: “I also feel like as
of right now, I feel like more consumers are calling out companies about their unethical or just
calling out companies about everything and anything bad. If this culture continues, brands are
going to have to change, even if they don’t want to.” (72) To mitigate negative media attention,
brands should consider changing business models to build brand loyalty with young consumers.
Corporations need to stay vigilant of Millennials and Generation Z’s opinions as they are the ones
transforming the future of retail. Both generations are one Google search away from any negative
or positive information about companies. Whether brands like it or not, consumers have the power.
Millennials and Generation Z Poll Questions
A focus group and poll questions were administered on September 30
th
through Professor
Jennifer Floto’s Food, Fashion, Fun! virtual course at the University of Southern California.
Twenty-nine students ranging in age from 20-30 answered two poll questions about the influence
on shopping habits and fashion sustainability.
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Figure 9: Bar Graph: Which of the following options do you consider the most when purchasing
clothing?
The first poll question: “Which of the following options do you consider the most when
purchasing clothing?” As reported in Figure 9, 55% of participants indicated that style (current
trends and aesthetics) is the most influential factor when purchasing apparel. Only 24% of
respondents selected comfort as the main reason behind shopping for clothes. Following comfort,
21% of participants considered price when buying a piece of garment. One interesting thing to
note is that no one selected sustainability and convenience as the primary consideration when
purchasing clothing.
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Figure 10: Bar Graph: How important is sustainability when purchasing clothing?
The second poll question: “How important is sustainability when purchasing clothes?”
Respondents were asked to answer a Likert Scale ranking of importance. As seen in Figure 10,
62% of participants indicated that sustainability is somewhat significant when purchasing clothes.
One possible explanation behind the results is that participants do not immediately think about
sustainability when purchasing new apparel, accessories and footwear. However, a majority of
those polled believed that sustainability in fashion is “somewhat important.”
Focus Group Data and Results
A sample size of (n = 16) students studying at the University of Southern California was
placed into an online breakout room for the focus group. The discussion included individuals who
were Millennials and Generation Z living in the United States and other countries. Professor Floto
moderated and asked the following four questions to gather a more in-depth analysis into thoughts
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about sustainable fashion, shopping habits and FABSCRAP’s approach to textile waste. The
following responses were recurrent points or highlights from the discussions:
Q1. Where do you shop for clothes and why?
Six out of 16 respondents reported shopping at fast-fashion companies such as Princess
Polly, Zara, Urban Outfitters, Banana Republic, Nordstrom, Nike, Fashion Nova, JC Penney, and
Ross. Similarly, six out of 16 participants mentioned that they shopped at small businesses or
sustainable brands such as Levi’s, Pangaia, Depop, Poshmark and TheRealReal.
Q2. What are your thoughts on sustainable fashion?
Participant 8: I have “champagne taste on a tap-water budget.” So, I like expensive pieces,
the reality is that I can’t afford them, especially right from the store. For me, in my mind,
I associate a sustainable clothing brand with this hippy, granola aesthetic that just isn’t
mine. I’m constantly thinking about these pieces that I want so badly, but I can’t afford, so
I find myself perusing apps like Poshmark or TheRealReal or Depop or things like that.
That is also another way to shop sustainability because that is second-hand. There are
outlets that one solved my price issues and sustainability as well.
Participant 14: … A lot of people think that sustainability in fashion is just the way we
produce clothing. But there’s a lot of other ways where fashion is not sustainable… like
shipping. Of course, we love next-day shipping, but do you realize what you are putting
into the environment by choosing next-day shipping?
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Participant 12: I think sustainable fashion is progressive and important. It is just too niche
of a target audience. That’s unfortunate because it is a trend in the younger generation to
be more environmentally friendly and stuff. But, a lot of young people can't afford the
brands, because it’s expensive…It cuts the range of impact that they can make.
Participant 4: It’s just not about the product, it’s about our habits. So, it doesn’t matter if I
go out and buy a sustainable dress, if I have five dresses in my closet that I can be using.
The other thing that I’ve seen in the circles that I follow is it ethical for more sustainable
brands to be popping up? We are still contributing to consumerism… It’s about shifting
away from the consumer mindset.
Participant 15: The community can come off as intimidating. Recently even, there's been
sustainable brands that have been exposed as actually not sustainable. It leaves some
questions that if I'm going to spend a hundred dollars on a shirt and get exposed, and then
find out that it is not even sustainable. It's hard to trust any brand, I guess.
Participant 8: Zara's line claims that it is more sustainable. I'm sitting here, looking at the
website and thinking about greenwashing. How much of this is it trying to clean up their
act, or is it a marketing gimmick?
Q3. Would you purchase from a sustainable brand if it cost $30 more for a T-shirt and takes
an extra 13 days to ship? If yes, why; if no, why not?
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When asked this question, no participants raised their hands. Participant #16 looked the
most shocked when Professor Floto asked question #3.
Q4. FABSCRAP is a nonprofit organization that partners with brands to recycle and reuse
clothing scraps. They sell new fabrics, out-of-season clothes, and shred leftover scraps to
create insulation. What do you think of this approach?
Participant 9: I love it! I think we need to keep finding more ways to be more sustainable
and being able to recycle clothes. I mean, one way is to donate it to thrift stores, but I think
finding alternative ways like insulation is really key to solving the sustainability issue.
Participant 14 The production component is important and is sustainable in actual
production. But, at the same time, those clothes have to go somewhere eventually. The
disposal of clothing needs to be more sustainable in its practices and has to be more
sustainable, instead of putting it in thrift stores, because someone is going to get rid of the
shirt. This is a really unique idea…
Participant 4: It's important for corporations because immediately when you said that I
think of the big couture brands, like Louis Vuitton. I think it was Givenchy because they
didn't want to end up in the resell market. Instead of destroying it, why not create a program
with your fashion house to do something with it?
Participant 13: A lot of brands destroy their stuff... I think it needs to be part of corporate
social responsibility. Something like this idea is awesome for local stores. But in bigger
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fashion houses, it's going to be tricky for big fashion houses to get rid of fabric… I think it
needs to be part of their responsibility to find a sustainable way to discard extra fabrics or
… a couple of companies do [take-back] programs.
Participant 10: I think it's really a great idea because a lot of companies are saying they are
sustainable practices, but they are not doing fully what this company is doing. The
important way to be sustainable is to buy fewer things. Even buying a new sustainable
option is not as good as recycling and reusing things and buying less.
Focus Group Key Takeaways and Insights
Based on the discussion within the focus group, there are several key takeaways. The high
price of a sustainable fashion brand is a deterrent for college students. Specifically, seven out of
16 participants in the focus group considered price when purchasing clothing. Many respondents
revealed that they were a “college student on a budget” and could not pay the price tag for
sustainable fashion. Even though participants recognized the importance of sustainability in
clothes, the ability to purchase from brands with sustainable offerings is perceived as an economic
privilege. Two prominent reasons for buying clothes were price and convenience. That being said,
individuals were more likely to purchase clothing based on their values. For example, looking
presentable at work or investing in clothing with high-quality fibers and durability.
When asked about thoughts on sustainable fashion, participants had numerous critiques.
Three out of 16 participants mentioned that the majority of sustainable clothing retailers do not
carry inclusive sizing. Meanwhile, two out of 16 respondents cited the aesthetics of sustainable
clothes as “hippy-dippy,” “granola” aesthetic and “not cute.” Furthermore, a few individuals were
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distrustful and cautious of sustainable fashion retailers and fast fashion brands with sustainable
claims. Two out of 16 participants recalled questionable greenwashing tactics employed by the
fast fashion industry and the unethical treatment of workers at sustainable fashion brands like
Reformation and Everlane.
Aside from purchasing from sustainable apparel brands, the focus group also discussed
alternatives to achieving a lower environmental footprint in fashion. Some suggestions consisted
of shopping at small businesses, purchasing high-quality pieces and checking out thrift and
consignment stores. When asked about FABSCRAP, five out of the 16 participants praised
FABSCRAP’s circular approach to solving textile waste through reusing and recycling fabric
scraps. Two out of 16 participants felt that fashion brands should incorporate a closed-loop system
as a sustainable CSR initiative.
Research Limitations
It must be noted that the focus group had some limitations that could affect the reliability
of the research. Convenience sampling was used to find participants, so the findings cannot be
generalized to a larger population. The sample size may not accurately reflect the population as all
were attending a tier-one research university. As expected in discussion groups, not all participants
answered every question. Some participants may have engaged in social desirability bias, which
might influence the responses to be perceived favorably. Regardless, some patterns were consistent
and complemented findings by other studies. There were also limitations concerning some of the
interview questions. Some questions were leading, which might prompt interviewees to answer in
a certain way. For example, the question, why should brands and people care about sustainability?
assumes that brands should care. Nonetheless, while we cannot draw statistically valid conclusions
from the focus group, the rich findings provide the foundation for furthering Millennials and
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Generation Z’s opinions about sustainability in the fashion industry and providing insights for
fashion sustainability experts.
Why the Apparel Supply Chain is Overdue for an Overhaul?
“I think it is an opportunity for all of us to look at our industry and look at over lives and rethink
our values, and to think about the waste and amount of money and consumption and excess, and I
obviously include myself in this, that we’ve all indulged in and we really need to rethink what this
industry stands for.” – Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue
Figure 11: The Linear Supply Chain of Fast Fashion
It is increasingly evident that the present fast fashion model is far from sustainable in the
long run. The United Nations Programme reports that the apparel and textile industry is responsible
for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, 20% of wastewater and garment worker exploitation.
Fast fashion cycles are fast-paced and composed of multiple unsustainable stages to maximize
profit and maintain demand (McNeill and Moore). The current supply chain of fast fashion follows
a linear system. As seen in Figure 11, a linear (take-make-dispose) model referred to the movement
of goods and services — everything from harvesting raw materials, manufacturers, distributors,
retailers, consumers to landfill. Each step of the supply chain in the fashion and apparel industry
contributed to a long list of negative environmental and societal consequences: waste, pollution
and toxicity.
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Statistics from United Nations International Maritime Organization revealed that the global
shipment of containers is responsible for 2.2% of global gas emissions (“World Nations Agree”).
One way to lower the carbon emissions in the atmosphere is by shortening the supply chain. The
current linear supply chain relies on an extended complex network of international imports and
exports, which requires more air and water transportation. By shortening the production process,
brands can lower greenhouse gas emissions from the shipping process because suppliers and
manufacturers are in the same country (Grechko). A shorter and smaller supply chain can also
assist with the traceability of suppliers for fashion companies. With growing concerns about
climate change and the environment, fashion brands need to act quickly and now.
Fashion Forward Solutions: A Case for Circular Fashion
Numerous approaches exist for changing these practices and instigating new, holistic and
less wasteful clothing production methods. One up-and-coming solution coined by Dr. Anna
Brismar is circular fashion – “clothes, shoes or accessories that are designed, source, produced and
provided with the intention to be used and circulated responsibility and effectively in society for
as long as possible in their most valuable form, and… return safely to the biosphere when no longer
of human use” (Alexander). FABSCRAP Community Coordinator Rachael Stein said, “There’s
are different ways to factor [sustainability] in like take-back programs, designing out waste, so in
the entire process, figuring out ways to be circular, bring out ways that even those little bits and
scraps get used.” As seen below, Figure 11 showcases a circular and transparent supply chain
comprised of the following key points from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation:
● Designing out waste and pollution from the supply chain
● Circulation of clothing for an extended period of period through reuse, rental and repair
● Regenerative infrastructure enabling textile recycling
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● Third-party assessment of the brand’s environmental and social performance
Figure 12: Circular Fashion Supply Chain
Zero Waste: Designing out Waste and Pollution
Due to inefficient pattern-making processes, garment manufacturers generate more than
164 million square meters of textile waste per day (McQuillan). One way to reduce textiles sent to
landfills and incineration during the production process is through waste-free designs. Also known
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as zero waste designs, where garments are constructed with little to no textile waste. More
precisely, pattern pieces of a waste-free design fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, so there is no
leftover fabric. How is this attainable? Zero waste designers eliminate odd spaces between pattern
pieces or use excess materials as bias tapes or embellishments (Yen). Some prominent waste-free
brands and designers are Zero Waste Daniel, Study New York, Yeohlee Teng, and Farrah Floyd
(“4 Examples of,” n.d.).
In addition to textile waste, the fashion and apparel industry is one of the largest wastewater
polluters worldwide, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. The chemical
dyes, pesticides and synthetic fibers in water sources produce health-related issues and
microfibers. By moving away from synthetic fibers to more plant-based fibers (organic cotton,
linen, hemp, ramie) or recycled fibers (polyester, nylon, cotton, and wool) causes less
environmental harm (“28 Types of”). Some artificial and blended fibers may take years to
biodegrade, and most cannot be recycled (Farra). One way to assist with the textile recycling
process is to design clothing using one singular fiber content rather than a combination of fibers
(Farra). Some garment retailers with ethical and sustainable fibers include Eileen Fisher, Organic
Basics, and more.
Circulation of Clothing: Reuse, Rental, and Repair
Another byproduct of a linear supply chain is deadstock (end-of-life products), which are
leftover fabrics during the design, production process, unsold garments, and out-of-season
inventory. Instead of reusing these materials, most of the fibers are disposed of in the landfill or
waste-to-energy facilities. A significant part of circular fashion is the circulation of clothing for an
extended period through reuse, rental, and repair before landfills. Textile reuse is characterized as
re-wearing or reselling a garment by transferring them to a new owner without prior modifications
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(Sandin and Peters). A few ways to purchase used textiles include second-hand thrift stores, flea
markets, garage sales, online marketplace. Second-hand stores and operations consisted of eBay,
Salvation Army, Goodwill, Plato’s Closet, Poshmark, Depop, ThredUp, TheRealReal and many
more.
Renting clothes has become the new green. Textile rental is either a subscription or leasing
service where people get access to clothing pieces for a certain time. Not only does it give
individuals access to high-end luxury pieces but maintains clothes in circulation. Some brands that
provide rental services include Rent the Runway, Nuuly, and Fashion to Figure. Another way to
keep clothing in circulation is through textile repair, to fix or mend an item of clothing. Not only
does it save you a trip to the store to buy a brand-new item, but it extends the longevity of a
garment. Fashion brands that are offering free repairing services to their patrons such as Patagonia,
Outerknown and MudJeans.
Regenerative Infrastructures: Textile Recycling
Secondary Materials and Recycled Textile (SMART) discovered a staggering 95% of
clothing and textile in landfills can be either reused or recycled. However, only a mere 1% of
materials from the apparel and textile process are recycled into new clothing. Due to the lack of
recycling infrastructure, these numbers suggested that fashion brands are throwing away an
astounding $450 billion in raw materials every year (Kunzig 60). In short, fashion retailers are
actually losing profit and resources when they choose not to reuse or recycle its textile waste.
Textile recycling is defined as the reprocessing of pre-consumer or post-consumer textile waste
into new fabrics or non-textile products (Sandin and Peters). Said another way, a process where
fibers are recovered from old materials into new threads to create brand-new garments or other
products. However, specific blends and synthetic fibers such as spandex, lycra or elastane cannot
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be recycled but can be reused. Within the circular system, textile recycling is considered the last
resort if the garment cannot remain in circulation through reuse, repair, and rent. FABSCRAP,
Patagonia, and For Days are companies that are either providing take-back programs or textile
recycling services.
Dispelling Greenwashing through Radical Transparency and Traceability
While some fashion retailers have adopted more sustainable and circular practices, several
companies have utilized greenwashing. One way to combat greenwashing is through the
assessment of a brand’s environmental and social performance. A UK-based nonprofit
organization, Fashion Revolution investigated over 250 fashion retailers and ranked companies
regarding environmental policies, social impact and business practices. Based on the findings, only
16% of 250 fashion brands published yearly carbon emissions. Additionally, a mere 7% of brands
(18 out of 250) outlined raw material suppliers compared to 5% in 2019. As demonstrated through
the low percentages, measuring carbon emissions and raw materials is uncommon within fashion
companies.
In addition to an absence of traceability, the apparel and textile industry’s misinformation
and info-dumping indicates a lack of transparency. According to Fashion Revolution’s final
results, 27% of apparel manufacturers provided sustainable goals to cut down on pre-consumer
waste during the design and production process. Out of 250 fashion companies, 18% of brands
published information about circular solutions such as textile-to-textile recycling. However, only
four brands out of 250 brands (2%) published data about the number of products that can be
recycled or designed to close the loop. The Fashion Revolution findings showcase that most
fashion brands are promoting sustainable claims without any data to support these so-called
“environmental and social efforts.”
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As greenwashing and info-dumping become widespread practices across fashion
corporations, one way to combat this pervasive issue is transparency and traceability.
Transparency is defined as the public disclosure about where products originated and the fibers
contents of garments (McSherry). On the other hand, traceability is when apparel corporations
provide suppliers: manufacturing, mills, processing facilities, and raw materials to stakeholders on
the website. A report conducted by Runnel et al. found that volumes of production leftover textiles
are systematically underreported and underestimated by brands. Actually, suppliers rarely updated
spreadsheets for inventory documentations. A perplexing part of the apparel industry is that textile
waste, suppliers, and raw-material information rarely, if ever, get published (Runnel et al.).
Fashion sustainability industry expert, Jasmine Sears said:
There isn’t a standard of measuring environmental impact. My first internship in Urban
Outfitter, I was working in buying, but it was like my personal intern project to work on a
sustainability assessment for the company. I got to speak to one of the sourcing managers
who was touring factories in China at the time and talking about where the fabrics are
coming from or talking to the buyers about how much they know about where they get
their clothes from. I really learn there that there’s no unified approach to doing that at a
company that size. Brands don’t know. It’s so disjointed. (67)
That being said, Sears pointed out that:
Environmental assessment is difficult for companies. But, if they are able to evaluate their
own and try to find sustainable solutions, they are not necessarily costly; they are just
different from the norm. So, it wouldn’t necessarily waste [reduce] their cost and decrease
their revenue. It can be a good business decision because of the higher price, added value
and same cost overall.” The additional benefit of assessing environmental impact is that
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brands can use this type of data and statistics to highlight their sustainability efforts and
cultivate trust with the public and stakeholders. (68)
Even though assessment may be difficult in fashion houses, it is incredibly plausible for
companies to receive a review from a third-party organization. One example is B Lab, a nonprofit
organization that provides certification for purpose-driven companies. Throughout the certification
process, brands are given an environmental and social impact assessment score based on the five
categories: governance, community, workers, customers and environment. Organizations have to
receive an 80 out of 200 points to become B Corp Certification (Elder). The second part of the
application process is a legal requirement that integrates opinions from the public, employees and
shareholders into its business practices. Third-party certification provides a distinction between
purpose-driven companies from companies with greenwashing claims (Elder). In addition to
ensuring the safety of garment workers, information disclosure can generate brand loyalty and trust
amongst young consumers. As Generation-Z and Millennials are progressively skeptical of large
corporations, statistics about CSR efforts can promote brand loyalty and build trust amongst young
people.
Fashion brands should consider a third-party assessment for their social and environmental
performance. As Chief Executive Officer at Laudes Foundation, Leslie Johnston, says,
“transparency and traceability are enablers of change” (“Fashion Transparency Index” 34). In other
words, fashion brands cannot take accountability and adjust business practices without proper data
and information. Lack of transparency and traceability can result in deaths and injuries, as
demonstrated in the tragic Rana Plaza collapse. Secondly, clothing retailers with a commitment to
sustainability will not be using empty filler words nor greenwashing. The company’s website will
be overflowing with facts and statistics. Data is an integral part of accessing sustainability.
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FABSCRAP Community Coordinator Rachael Stein said, “Brands who are committed to
sustainability will be sharing A LOT of data. Brands who are truly committed to sustainability
want to be transparent as possible because they want consumers to trust what they are saying.”
Figure 13: That’s Suspicious: Top 10 Signs of Greenwashing Social Media Checklist
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All in all, the apparel and textile industry should transition toward a transparent circular
supply chain. To overhaul the present supply chain overnight is neither possible nor realistic, but
it is with utmost importance that fashion retailers should consider and take steps to embrace
circularity. While most fashion companies are slow to adopt circular fashion, some brands such as
FABSCRAP, For Days and Patagonia are starting to look for a closed-loop solution to cut down
on textile waste and lower its carbon footprint.
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FABSCRAP: One Brand’s Scraps are Another Person’s Treasure
FABSCRAP, a New York-based nonprofit organization, tackles one of the garment
industry’s biggest problems: textile waste. When Jessica Schrieber worked at reFashionNYC,
fashion designers and brands reached out to her to figure out how to properly dispose of their
textile waste. There was no existing infrastructure at the time, so Schrieber decided to launch
FABSCRAP to solve this issue. Since 2016, FABSCRAP has diverted an impressive 493,697
pounds of fabric from landfills based on statistics from the 2019 Annual Report. The company
partners with more than 500 brands and designers to provide a convenient service to collect
leftover scraps. When the bags get full, FABSCRAP’s delivery services collect the proprietary
bags and take them back to its warehouse. The proprietary bags contain unwanted and unused
material ranging from different shapes and sizes — fabric swatches, extra yardage, sample
garments, new yardage, end-of-life rolls, corns of yarn, zippers, buttons, and leathers
(NowThisEarth).
One way that FABSCRAP is incorporating a more circular approach is through reusing
and recycling. The organization reuse approximately 60% of materials from 421 fashion,
entertainment, and interior brands such as Rent the Runway, Macy’s, and J. Crew
(“FABSCRAP”). The majority of incoming fabrics are in new condition (unused fabric rolls, off-
season garments) and sold at thrift store prices. Meanwhile, the remaining 40% are recycled into
scraps to create insulation, furniture lining, blankets, mattress, and carpet padding
(NowThisEarth). The organization sorts fabrics with 100% polyester, 100% wool, and 100%
cotton. At the current time, there are no textile-to-textile recycling solutions for fabrics with
Spandex, Lycra, or elastane, but the FABSCRAP team is still looking for more answers. According
to Rachael Stein, “A lot of people don’t realize that synthetic fibers don’t degrade. The chemicals
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that are used to make them can also lead to air, water, and soil pollution. I’d want [fashion brands]
to explore different fabric options, especially when it comes to Spandex because it cannot be
shredded. It just melts” (Rodgers). Although synthetic fabrics cannot be recycled, these materials
can be reused at the FABSCRAP shop. Stein said:
Recycling and reusing both of them are great for the environment. Reusing is going to
have a little bit of a better impact. It is going to keep materials out of landfills. With the
brands we work with, we received many really… high-quality fabrics that the brand never
used. It’s essentially brand new. This fabric could retail for a lot of money. So, we’re
preserving [it], instead of recycling that very fabric that has the potential to turn into some
new, to be recycle and to be upcycle. We are maximizing the amounts of fabrics by keeping
it out of the landfills” FABSCRAP’s circular approach to reusing and recycling has averted
tons of textile in the landfill as well as carbon emissions. (58)
Volunteers helped categorize and separate textile into subcategories: fabric, non-fabric,
reuse, or recycling. Over 5,201 volunteers have dedicated hours to organize textile materials since
the opening of the store. Stein said, “As a thank you for their time, we give [volunteers] five rolls
of fabrics for free.” Contrary to popular beliefs, sustainability can be accessible and relatively
inexpensive. Stein said:
Sustainability is such a buzzword that can sometimes lose meaning and I think one of the
challenging things… about anything that is market as sustainable a lot of times there is a
really high price tag. FABSCRAP to be able to distribute a lot of fabric for free can open a
lot of doors for people. Free fabrics can open a lot of doors for people. It means that they
can create more and is a very accessible way for [low-income] people to work
sustainability, which I think is super cool. (59 - 60)
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Besides giving away free fabrics to volunteers, FABSCRAP has given materials to other
charitable causes such as screen-printing fundraising with proceeds donated to Black Lives Matter
and mask-making kits with Boys and Girls Club in Southern California.
In addition to the textile waste, FABSCRAP is trying to tackle the lack of transparency and
traceability about the apparel and textile industry’s environmental footprint. As Stein said during
the interview, “There’s not a lot of data available on textile waste compared to commercial waste.”
(62). When a brand or designer partners with FABSCRAP, the company receives a customized
report outlining the total weight diverted from landfill, end-use of materials and the number of
carbon emissions saved. Brands can use this information to showcase their eco-conscious
initiatives and market themselves to stakeholders and customers. Along with providing
information to brands about their environmental performance, the nonprofit organization is
spreading the message about sustainability to the next generation of designers and students. In
2019 alone, the FAB Team spent 235 hours giving lectures, talks, and interviews at schools or
individuals interested in learning about sustainable solutions (“THE FABSCRAP ANNUAL” 13).
The nonprofit organization has two locations – a warehouse in Brooklyn Army Terminal
and a FABSCRAP shop at West 26
th
Street in Manhattan. Customers at the FABSCRAP shop
include students, artists, crafters, quilters, sewers, instructors and designers. Before the COVID-
19 pandemic, the nonprofit organization was looking at expanding a branch in Los Angeles (“THE
FABSCRAP ANNUAL” 5). Circular fashion can be extremely profitable for fashion brands.
Based on its 2019 Annual Report, the FABSCRAP store at the Manhattan location made 44% of
overall fabric sales. The revenue from reselling fabrics has surpassed service fee collections by
110% since 2018. Without circular solutions built on reusing and recycling textile waste, these raw
materials and textiles would have otherwise ended up in the landfill or incineration.
38
One key takeaway from FABSCRAP’s story is that CEO and Founder Jessica Schreiber
saw an opportunity within the apparel and textile industry. The organization provides a convenient
solution to collect fashion brand’s textile waste using delivery trucks, reusable bags, and
volunteers. The nonprofit organization understands that education and factual data are vital in
spreading awareness about the environmental impacts of brands, designers, and consumers. Said
another way, progress takes time, but it begins with raising awareness about the environmental
impact. Lastly, FABSCRAP discovered reusing and recycling technology as ways to solve the
growing textile waste problem. By reselling unused fabrics and repurposing new materials into
insulation for carpet padding, furniture lining, moving blankets has prevented additional textile
waste and carbon emissions in the atmosphere.
For Days: Closing the Loop on Fashion for Better Days
For Days is not your ordinary sustainable clothing retailer. No matter the condition –
stretch, ripped or stained — this clothing company will take back used For Days items for a
discount toward a new product as an incentive. The SWAP program is a take-back program where
old clothing is turned into new apparel through fiber-to-fiber recycling, a closed-loop process to
solve the growing textile waste problem. When consumers are ready to trade in their clothing, they
put the old item into the prepaid mailer and send it back to the company. Returned For Days goods
are categorized, sanitized, broken down, and blended into new yarn through a partnership with
Recover, recycling mills located in Spain and North Carolina. For over 70 years, the fabric mills
have transformed pre-owned clothing into pulp and new yarn. This new yarn is turned into new
fabrics and clothing pieces. New garb is made with a 50/50 blend of brand-new and recycled fibers.
This recycling process produces close to zero greenhouse gas emissions and does not require any
water, saving 700 gallons of water from the manufacturing process.
39
In addition to textile waste, the company is finding alternatives to manufacturing clothing
without water pollution. All of the garments are made from 100% cotton certified under Global
Organic Textile Standard and made with chemical-free dyes to ensure the workers’ and consumers’
safety (Sweeney). According to Founder and CEO of For Days, Kristy Caylor, “Conventional
cotton uses 25% of the world’s pesticides and pollutes water. Using GOTS-certified cotton and
dyes ensures that the product is safe for your skin and safe for the producers” (Sweeney). As For
Days upcycles the returned cotton, having raw materials with no synthetics and integrity
guarantees a better upcycling result.
In May 2018, Founders Kristy Caylor and Mary Saunders started For Days, a retail
company selling basics such as T-shirts and knitwear. The LA-based company offers a wide range
of 100% recyclable products including T-shirts, lounge sets, tank tops and overalls. Before For
Days, Caylor worked in the fashion industry for over 15 years. While employed at GAP and
Mayiat, she noticed the problem with overproduction and a disorganized supply chain. "I spent
time in our factories and was deeply impacted by the magnitude of our production. We were just
making so much stuff. The social and environmental repercussions were clear. The supply chain
of fashion companies was in disarray and all over the place" (Sweeney). Shortly after, Caylor
launched an ethical brand exclusively selling clothing made by a self-sustaining artisan world-
wide. However, Caylor pointed out that "I was still making too much stuff, something bigger with
industry-wide implications" (Sweeney). Caylor's experiences within the fashion industry became
the foundation of For Days, a balance between profit and sustainability.
Even though For Days launched two years ago, the ecological impact is apparent. The
company listed its environmental footprint on its website. Since the beginning of the company, the
organization’s saved 384,000 gallons of water, which is proportionate to 766,000 days of drinking
40
water. Second, For Days prevented 5,000 pounds of carbon emissions in the atmosphere, which is
comparable to the amount of CO2 driving 6,000 miles. Most important, the organization saved
73,000 pounds of textile waste from the landfill thus far (“ZERO WASTE”). Also, the company
is committed to offsetting 100% carbon emissions during the transportation process. In 2020, For
Days became a Compact Certified B-Corporation and certified carbon neutral company. By 2030,
For Days is committed to using 100% recycled materials and a supply chain with zero-waste
manufacturing practices (“ZERO WASTE”).
Similarly, Caylor saw an opportunity to start a sustainable business and address the textile
waste and water pollution within the apparel industry. For Days is the first-ever closed-loop
clothing brand to embrace a circular approach through the entire supply chain — everything from
cotton usage to textile-to-textile recycling practices. The take-back programs allow For Days to
take accountability for the proper recycling of materials to harvest renewable materials. As Caylor
explained, “It has to be part of your approach from the very beginning. Our products were
specifically designed for their ‘end of life’ — they’re engineered to come apart easily” (Farra).
Lastly, the company is also engaged in a conversation with its customers about sustainability and
clothing consumption. When customers choose to swap a piece of clothing, they are given
information about the amount of water, carbon emissions, and textile waste diverted from landfills.
Greater awareness about an individual’s carbon footprint will increase consumers' ability to make
more sustainable purchasing habits.
Patagonia: Passion at the Root, Sustainability at the Core
When Yvon Chouinard created Chouinard Equipment (Patagonia’s original name) in 1973,
he became its first customer. As a rock climber, he spent his time scaling cliffs in Yosemite and
Yellowstone as well as peaks in South Africa. Chouinard was deeply dissatisfied with European
41
climbing spikes, so he launched Chouinard Equipment to create his version. By 1970, Chouinard
Equipment became the leading supplier of climbing equipment within the United States. Around
that time, Chouinard released his well-known rugby shirts with varying patterns and colors after
seeing so many “drab, austere and earth-tone color” outdoor clothing (Gallagher). In 1972, the
California-based company changed its name from Chouinard Equipment to “Patagonia” after the
sublime mountains in Argentina. Inspired by Chouinard’s passion for the outdoors, the clothing
and gear company realized its brand purpose is to “save the planet” moving forward (Bodzioch).
Starting in 1985, Patagonia pledged 1% of sales to preserve and restore the natural
environment. Patagonia has donated more than $116 million to environmental organizations
through its 1% for Planet pledge, a commitment to donate 1% of net revenue to grassroots
environmental nonprofit every year. Patagonia was also the first-ever California organization to
sign up for Certified B Corporation (“Annual Benefit Corporation”). The company has one of the
highest overall B impact scores with 151.4 out of 200 points. In 2016, the company also donated
100% of Black Friday sales to an environmental nonprofit, totaling $10 million. The company also
matched the donations between Black Friday to December 31 to ecological nonprofits through the
Patagonia Action Works program.
The outdoor company also showcased its commitment to eco-conscious consumerism with
an anti-branding advertisement in the New York Times during Black Friday in 2011. The one-
page spread had the words, “DON’T BUY THIS JACKET,” plastered in bold black font
accompanied by a Patagonia fleece jacket (Martinko). The flyer informed customers to be mindful
of superfluous consumption. It urged people to reevaluate their purchases and consider reducing,
repairing, reusing, and recycling to increase garment’s longevity. As seen in these three initiatives,
Patagonia’s brand messaging aligns with its actions.
42
One way to reduce one’s environmental and carbon footprint is to keep reusing your
clothing for a more extended time. Rather than brand-new clothing items, purchasing used is way
more environmentally friendly than buying a brand-new item. Patagonia’s CEO, Ryan Gellert
explained that by “Buying a used garment extends its life on average by 2.2 years, which reduces
its carbon, waste, and water footprint by 73%” (Martinko). With this in mind, Patagonia launched
Worn Wear in 2017, an online e-commerce site where customers can trade, sell and buy second-
hand and gently used Patagonia clothing and gears at a reasonably steep discount from the original
premium (Martinko). The company will wash the item before placing it online for resale, while
the customers who trade in the product will receive a credit toward a new or used product.
Patagonia is one of the first-ever retailers to sell used clothing alongside new garments.
Every product purchased from Patagonia qualifies for free repair service. Patagonia’s 2019
Annual Report states it operates over 72 global product repair sites and technicians in Reno,
Nevada. The largest in-store repair center is located in the Bowery store in NYC, where the site
fixed more than 100,000 items in 2019. Gellert said, “From fixing a patch on your favorite jacket
to replacing a busted zipper, each of these individual actions could give us a better chance of living
on a habitable planet in years to come” (Martinko). Extending the longevity of clothing through
repairs for just nine additional months can reduce carbon emissions by 2%, water usage by 2% and
waste by 22%, according to Patagonia (“The Climate Crisis”).
Over the years, Patagonia found creative innovation to develop new fibers. The company
created Tencel, a lyocell fiber made from the pulp of trees grown in environmentally friendly
farms. Another raw material is Yulex, natural rubber for wetsuits and reduces greenhouse gas
emissions by 80% over normal manufacturing processes. Its 2019 Annual Report states that
Patagonia collaborates with 166 farmers to produce regenerative organic cotton pilots in India. It
43
also reports that its material composition of clothing includes 48% Virgin petroleum-based
products such as polyester and nylon, 31% were created from recycled materials, 16% of apparel
materials and sources consisted of cotton and other plant-based materials and the remaining 5%
were made from wool and other animal fibers.
The outdoor hiking retailer is also known for its textile recycling supply chain. The
company uses post-consumer plastic soda bottles to create fleece sweaters dating through a
recycling infrastructure that melts the plastics into fibers and fabric (Friedman). All things
considered, Patagonia is a leading example of a brand that has adopted several circular solutions
such as reusing, renting, repairing, and recycling.
Patagonia is a trailblazer with a purpose-driven mission built on authentic storytelling. The
brand has demonstrated continuous dedication toward a greener planet, which originated from
Chouinard’s passion for the environment. The outdoor clothing and gear company walks the talk.
Throughout every part of the organization, the product to business practice and strategy, there is
an emphasis on sustainability. As previously mentioned, Patagonia has incorporated circularity in
ways like recycling fibers, selling used clothing items, and repairing garments to keep clothing in
circular for an extended time.
Brands with a long history and dedication toward sustainability are perceived as more
trustworthy than brands that recently announce green initiatives due to bad publicity. Another way
the company showcases transparency is through the B Corp Certification. As the younger
generation becomes more interested in environmental issues, they are more willing to invest in
more corporations with transparent Corporate Social Responsibility. Patagonia is constantly
adapting with the times and actively listening to its customers' concerns, and implementing these
changes to their business practices.
44
The California-based retailer has a comprehensive understanding of its target audiences'
mindset and values. Many fans have nicknamed the outdoor clothing company “Pattagucci,”
blending Patagonia and luxury-brand Gucci. Not only is this a reference to the premium cost of
the product, but also as a form of admiration for the company’s values. The Public Relations and
Advertising team at Patagonia understands its consumers are eco-conscious and willing to pay
more for high-quality and sustainable products. Customers who shop at Patagonia want to “vote
with their wallets” and purchase from companies with similar values such as high-quality fibers,
eco-friendly garments, and ethical business practices. Through its purpose-driven advertisements
like "DON'T BUY THIS JACKET," the company sells values rather than products.
Naysayers of Circular Solutions
Many fashion manufacturers in Asia are “not incentivized to shift from a linear supply
chain to a more circular approach,” according to Forum for the Future (“MAKING THE LEAP”
8). Undoubtedly, the pressing environmental consequences and concerns from future consumers
should propel the apparel and textile industry to consider circular fashion. The wasteful practices
across the fashion industry are far from sustainable. Additionally, the make-take-dispose supply
chain is costing retailers and wasting natural resources. As previously mentioned, Secondary
Material and Recycled Textiles (SMART) cited that 85% of textile waste in landfills can either
reused or recycled into brand new apparel and accessories. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation
estimated that fashion retailers lose billions of dollars every year due to a lack of recycling or
reusing within the supply chain (“A New Textile”).
Another growing concern regarding circular fashion is greenwashing. Will circular fashion
become the next marketing scheme? Researchers Roland Levering and Bart Vos stated, “Although
research on circular supply chain models is increasing, their actual adoption and implementation
45
is still poorly understood” (Vos and Levering). That being said, transparency and traceability are
essential when it comes to the implementation of a circular approach. As previously mentioned,
apparel brands dedicated to lowering their environmental footprint will have detailed data and
statistics and/or certified under a third-party organization to measure their social and
environmental impact. As FABSCRAP Community Coordinator Stein said, “I would say that for
a lot of brands who are committed to sustainability, they will be sharing A LOT of data. Brands
that are truly committed to sustainability want to be as transparent as possible. They want
customers to trust what they are saying. So, yes, there is a little bit on us to do research.” (64) As
a result, consumers need to make sure that brands have statistics and facts to back up their claims
rather than meaningless initiatives
Lastly, naysayers have also argued that “you can’t re-design the supply chain” or that
circular fashion is not plausible due to the lack of infrastructure and technology for textile-to-
textile recycling. Although recycling is the main component of circular fashion, it is not the only
aspect. Reusing is far more sustainable compared to recycling. “Recycling and reusing — both of
them are great for the environment. Reusing is going to have a little bit of a better impact. It is
going to keep materials out of landfills for a longer period,” Stein said. Contrary to that belief,
recycling is a massive component of circular fashion. Reusing is a lot more beneficial for the
environment because additional resources are not used to create a brand-new garment. Moving
away from a take-make-dispose supply chain overnight is not possible nor realistic. However, it is
vital that apparel brands take the steps toward a circular fashion.
Conclusion
Many critics may assert that reinventing the apparel supply chain is impossible. However,
companies like FABSCRAP, For Days and Patagonia showcase that these existing solutions are
46
viable and practical. Circular fashion is a less trashy way to address the textile waste problem,
water pollution crisis, and social impact exacerbated by the fashion and textile industry. Compared
to the wasteful fast-fashion model, the system follows the Re’s—repair, reuse, rental and
recycling—to extend the lifetime of clothing. The apparel and textile sector has received negative
attention on social media platforms and protests from environmental activists surrounding their
unsustainable and greenwashing tactics. However, little effort has been made to solve the problem.
To mitigate the unfavorable publicity surrounding the fashion industry’s unsustainable and
unethical practices, brands need to overhaul its supply chain and consider a more transparent
cyclical approach.
Apparel retailers should pay attention to the mindset of young consumers, who are
increasingly concern about sustainability. The results from the poll questions (n = 29) provided a
robust understanding of Millennials and Gen Z’s motivations behind purchasing clothes and the
importance of sustainability when shopping. Most participants in the focus group bought clothes
based on their values. 55% of participants considered style (trend and aesthetics), 24% selected
comfort (fit and type of materials), and 21% chose price (cost of apparel). It is important to note
that no participants choose sustainability and convenience. When asked about whether
sustainability is significant when purchasing clothing, 62% stated sustainability is somewhat
essential. This statistic shows that Millennials and Gen Z do not immediately think about
sustainability when shopping for clothes. However, participants still consider sustainability as a
relatively important issue in the fashion and apparel industry.
Additional findings from the poll questions and the focus group (n=16) revealed
Millennials’ and Gen Z’s thoughts on sustainable fashion, shopping habits, and FABSCRAP’s
circular approach to textile waste. Seven out of 16 participants in the focus group were either
47
undergraduate or graduate students on a budget and listed price as a primary consideration when
purchasing clothing. Sustainable fashion is generally perceived as more expensive. However, cost-
conscious participants mentioned other environmental options such as online retailers and second-
hand shops like Depop, The RealReal, ThredUp, and Poshmark. Two out of 16 participants were
skeptical of sustainable brands and fast fashion chains announcing greenwashing tactics. That said,
five out of 16 participants praised FABSCRAP’s circular approach as a viable approach to the
growing textile waste problem. A recommendation for future research is to examine purchasing
habits surrounding sustainable products based on financial circumstances.
One insight from the interview with FABSCRAP’s Community Coordinator Rachael Stein
is that statistics and factual information about a company’s social and environmental performance
is not only an indicator of transparency but can also help combat greenwashing. Fashion
corporations committed to the environment and future generations will openly share aggregated
data with the public and stakeholders across online platforms. In other words, brands dedicated to
sustainable corporate social responsibility will be communicating through numbers instead of
meaningless buzzwords, jargon, and visuals. Another insight from the interview with USC senior
undergraduate student Jasmine Sears is that environmental assessment is difficult for fashion
brands but not entirely impossible. Some additional advantages of clothing retailers with
transparent business practices include decreased skepticism, higher revenue, increased brand
loyalty, and increased trust. So, how can consumers distinguish actual sustainable companies from
disingenuous ones? Refer to page 41 to page 42 for a social media shareable checklist with the top
10 signs of greenwashing.
FABSCRAP, For Days, and Patagonia are leading examples of transparent companies
taking a more circular approach toward a greener future. Even with limited resources, FABSCRAP
48
is a nonprofit organization with a mission to end textile waste through reusing and recycling. The
New York-based company provides effective solutions for brands and designers to properly handle
their textile waste and measure their environmental impact. For Days, the first-ever sustainable
clothing retailer, offers take-back programs for its product and recycles it into new clothing. Not
only are fibers made with renewable and organic materials, but the company is not producing any
wastewater within its production process. Lastly, Patagonia is the epitome of a purpose-driven
brand since the beginning and has incorporated several circular approaches to its business practices
such as reusing, repairing, and recycling.
Therefore, fashion and apparel organizations should consider shifting from a disposable
supply chain to a more transparent circular solution to address the environmental and social impact.
One significant part of a closed-loop system is designing waste and pollution from the supply chain
through raw materials and zero-designs. Another critical part of the circular supply chain is the
transition from a disposable supply chain to ensuring that clothing remains in circulation,
emphasizing repair, reuse, rental, and recycling. Fashion brands should also implement
infrastructure that assists with the recovery of fibers through textile-to-textile recycling. Finally,
to fully address the greenwashing practices within the fashion space, brands should employ third-
party certification to access social and environmental performance such as B Corp Certification or
FABSCRAP’s aggregated data. Moving toward a transparent closed-loop solution for fashion is
not only necessary but imperative. The health of the planet and the next generation depends on our
actions. Sustainability and fashion do not have to be mutually exclusive. Like designer, Stella
McCartney said, “The future of fashion is circular. It has to be” (Alexander).
49
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Appendices
Appendix A: Rachael Stein Interview Transcript
Q1. What is the story behind FABSCRAP?
Rachael: Our founder, Jessica Schreiber used to work at the Department of Sanitation in New
York. When she was there, one of the programs that she helped oversee was the ReFashionNYC
program, which is something that is run by the city of New York for post-consumer or residential
textile waste, so specifically used clothes and old bedsheets... The program among other things
places collection bins in apartment buildings, so that makes it really easy to donate clothes or any
old textiles that you are not using. Instead of having to take a trip down the street or hop on a
subway, it is literally in your building. She was helping manage that program and when she was
there, some fashion brands were reaching out to her about her own textile waste, which looks very
different from post-consumer or residential waste, which are not complete garments, it’s those
headers or rolls of fabric. She was trying to find a program to fit them into the existing program.
Unfortunately, the existing infrastructure just didn’t work for the waste that companies had. So,
from there, she set out to understand that waste streams better. The findings from that were the
seeds for FABSCRAP.
Rachael: FABSCRAP was founded in 2016 and then about a year into FABSCRAP’s existence,
Camille Tagle came on board. Camille’s background is in fashion and design. So, she really helped
expanded the reuse side of our reuse operation. Recycling and reusing — both of them are great
for the environment. Reusing is going to have a little bit of a better impact. It is going to keep
materials out of landfills for a longer period of time. With the brands we work with, we received
a lot of really… high-quality fabrics that was never used by the brands. It’s essentially brand new.
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This fabric could retail for a lot of money. So, we’re preserving… instead of recycling that very
fabric that has potential to turn into some new, to be upcycled. We are maximizing the [number]
of fabrics, allowing people to actually make use of it and keeping it out of the landfills for a longer
period of time. We just recently celebrated our four-year anniversary, which is really exciting.
Q2. Who are the customers that shop at the FABSCRAP Shop?
Rachael: “We have a diverse community that sourced fabrics from us and shops from us. This
includes students. New York City has a lot of fashion and design programs, so we see a lot of
student Fashion Institute of Technology, Pratt, a lot of home-sewers, especially any individuals
who are interested in textile and sustainability finds their way to us, a lot of people who are
community artists and quitter. We also have some designers who will source fabrics from us,
typically their brands are a little bit smaller because in terms quantities are going to be a little bit
smaller. For us, in terms of the quantity of fabrics… we don’t receive really high quantities of the
same type of fabrics. Once, we see one roll of fabric of a particular type. We might not see another
again. So, it’s challenging for larger brands to source from us, smaller brands definitely [can].
Q3. What are some other ways that FABSCRAP distribute fabrics aside from FABSCRAP Shop?
Rachael: One of the big things that we do here is that we distribute a lot of fabrics for free.
Sustainability is such a buzzword that can lose meaning. One of the challenging things about
anything that is marketed as sustainable, a lot of the times there’s a really high price tag.
FABSCRAP to be able to distribute a lot of fabric for free. Free fabrics can open a lot of doors for
people. It means that they can create more and is a very accessible way for [low-income] people
to work sustainability, which I think is super cool.
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Rachael: One of the things our volunteers help us with is sort fabrics for recycling and reuse. We
received quite a lot of headers, which are basically swatches of fabrics that are attached to a piece
of paper or cardboard. Fabric mills send these out to designers. They have to be taken apart by
hand, it’s quite time-consuming and the fabrics have to be sorted based on fiber content because
not all fabrics can be recycled. Most can, but not all. It’s a manual and time-intensive process.
Rachael: A lot of free fabric actually goes to our volunteers. Like, I mentioned before, our
volunteers help us sort through textile waste for recycling and reuse. As a thank you for their time,
they are able to take five pounds for free. We also offer a volunteer discount if they want to get
anything else on top of that. I would say right now, our volunteer program is definitely abbreviated.
We were close for a few months due to COVID. We open for volunteers in July, but the program
is a lot more limited because we want to make sure that table is spaced six feet apart. Only one
person per table. Making sure that when folks are shopping, we aren’t cramming them into the
same area and being mindful of health and safety. We also get a lot of donation requests from other
nonprofits and charitable events… we definitely donate fabrics and materials to other groups.
Some examples of groups that we worked with before like community groups who are distributing
face masks. We also donated to someone who was doing screen-printing fundraising and the
proceeds of the events were donated to BLM organizations. We have a partnership with an
organization that is actually based in the LA area called United Be Masks. That I’m super excited,
we donated a significant fabric that goes into mask-making kits that is going to be distributed by
the Boys and Girls Club in various cities in SoCal, specifically kids in underserved communities.
They are getting instructions on how to make the masks and… things that they can embellish the
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mask, so that they can feel great about the mask that they are wearing. So, that I’m super excited
about! We partner with other different organizations for all different kinds of events and causes.
Q4. What process do brands have to go through to partner with FABSCRAP?
Rachael: Our service area is just in the New York area. We do pickups from the brands that we
work with. We want to make the whole process convenient for them and as we talk before about
collection bins in the apartment buildings. That same spirit. All of the brands that we work with,
sign with a service agreement with us. And, then they have to pay for our recycling services, it’s
not a donation and there’s a couple of reasons for that… One of the main one is that we want
brands to be taking financial responsibility for the waste that they are creating. One interesting
thing that I’d like to note with people is that even if a brand chose to throw out unwanted fabric
versus recycling with us, they are still paying, because companies are paying for any recycling or
trash. They have to pay for paper recycle and commercial hauling for trash. The fees that we charge
are fairly comparable to pay for commercial hauling. So, they have to pay for it either way. The
benefit of them recycling with us, first of all, they know that it is staying out of landfill and that is
information that they can market about themselves. We also collect a lot of data and we share each
brand’s individual data with them. So, brands A can know, “Hey, I diverted 5,000 pounds and
materials from landfills”. When keeping materials out of landfills, it’s preventing carbon emissions
because landfills naturally produce greenhouse gases. So, they will know about carbon savings
that they prevented from landfills and know how much was recycled, redistributed or made
available for folks to shop. They have hard data that they can share, especially for brands that have
stayed for us for multiple years, they can see how their impacts grow year after year.”
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Q5. Can everyday people access each brand’s data in FABSCRAP’s database?
Rachael: We don’t share a brand's individualized data with anyone other than the brand. The
aggregate data is publicly available. That is a lot of information that’s in the annual report…so that
annual report is a public resource, we share these numbers publicly. Anyone can access them. As
you may know already, there’s not a lot of data available on textile waste compared to commercial
waste.
Q6. Can FABSCRAP’s recycling and reusing models be replicated elsewhere?
Rachael: I think that our model can be replicated elsewhere with caveats because, obviously, every
location is going to be different. There are some key things that can be carried over no matter the
location. One example, Los Angeles. Our directors have been out to look at spaces and meet with
potential partnership. LA is another hub for fashion. But it is a lot more production versus in New
York is a lot more design brands. The textile waste that we will see in LA is going to be a little bit
different than what we see in New York. The model that we have can be tailored to different
locations based on that. Another factor to consider is New York is a compact city and LA is a very
sprawling area, so in terms of transportation, that’s also we need to take in account. The bones of
what we do here and how it runs can be applied to different areas.
Q6. Why should brands and people care about sustainability?
Rachael: That’s the big question of everything. It’s really in their best interest to do that for a
number of reasons. Even though there are definitely challenges that consumers see with their own
experiences with sustainable brands, people in general do care about sustainability. People do care
about the environment and I would say especially young people. So, brands that are successfully
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marketing themselves as sustainable can see an increase in sales. I think the challenge there as you
probably know is greenwashing… there’s obviously an environmental consideration.
Every pound of waste in apparel production is associated with double that in terms of greenhouse
gases. With the planets that we live on, we have a little limited number of resources. So, unless
brands and just everyone in general starts taking that in consideration in every stage of the process,
we are going to run out. And another thing is that there’s actually laws about it. New York City,
specifically, has a law for business that states that if more than 10% of waste is textile, you are
required to recycle. I do think there is a law similar to this that exists elsewhere. Hopefully,
something that we will see in the coming future is MORE laws like this and more enforcement of
these types of laws.
Rachael: There’s some op-ed… that’s floating around the internet something along the lines of “I
don’t know how to explain why you should care about other people”. If a brand simply doesn’t
care and we can share the data and they may not be swayed. I think it comes down to the individuals
working at the brand, who feel passionate about the thing and can get the brands on board.
Individuals have a lot of power to do that, hopefully, more people are you know as we see
everything happening in the world and becoming more committed to sustainable causes. There
will hopefully be more momentum of brands actually doing it. I think brands marketing themselves
as sustainable and then seeing an increase in sales should see this as a benefit and getting them to
commit to taking those steps.
Q7. How can consumers determine whether a brand is committed to sustainability and ethics or
greenwashing?
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Rachael: I would say that for a lot of brands who are committed to sustainability, they will be
sharing A LOT of data. Brands who are truly committed to sustainability want to be as transparent
as possible. They want customers to trust what they are saying. So, yes, there is a little bit on us to
do research. I think, across the board, as people we shouldn’t just believe everything that
everybody is telling us all the time. As consumers, we have to do a little bit of work ourselves to
make sure that brands are doing the actual work that they say that they are doing. Brands who are
truly committed want to be transparent and they don’t want to trick you… There are different ways
to factor [sustainability] in like take-back programs, designing out waste, so in the entire process,
figuring out ways to be circular, bring out ways that even those little bits and scraps get used. I’ve
been seeing a lot lately from some brands… I saw this brand who use vinyl out of billboards…but
the smallest product that they sell are keychains. The keychains are made from all the little scraps
that are left over after assembling the larger products. That’s an example of something that brands
can do to make sure that they are minimizing waste overall.
Q8. What direction do you see the fashion industry headed in the near future?
Rachael: Finding other ways to minimize waste. There’s this consumer mindset of “I want it and
I need it now”. That’s work that consumers need to do. Outside of getting people to be more
patient.
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Appendix B: Jasmine Sears Interview Transcript
Q1. Where do you shop for clothes? Why?
Jasmine: I honestly don’t buy many clothes at all. I think the pandemic has exacerbated that
because I am not going anywhere, and I have no reason to. I honestly don't buy new clothes often.
But when I do buy clothes, I get them from thrift stores and vintage stores, almost exclusively. I
think prior to that, I really like American Apparel. There’s not that many brands that I shop at, it’s
just whatever. Eckhuaus Latta is one of my favorite fashion brands, too. Yeah, I don’t really buy
too many clothes.
Q2. Can you tell me about your educational background and interest in fashion sustainability?
Jasmine: So, I majored in environmental studies and minor in business at the USC. I came in
wanting to study environmental studies because I don’t know anything in life that is more
important than the environment. Everything that we do on a day-to-day basis depends on the health
of the planet. It’s crazy that I can care about anything else, more. I came in not knowing what to
do specifically in the environment and sustainability… I came in as a double major in
environmental studies and economics. But I didn’t like economics, so I switched over to business.
My thought process there is because most emissions come from large corporations. They create
emissions in the atmosphere. They are the ones that are creating the most waste, so if you are going
to address the issue of sustainability instead of coming from an individual level like in the
household, you have to address it at the main cause, which is corporations. I wanted to have an
understanding of business practices and how business functions so I can help solve sustainability
at a wider scale and have a wider impact.
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Jasmine: I have always been interested in creative projects and always liked clothes. The fashion
industry seems so exclusive from the outside, so I’ve never thought about entering it. Then, one
day, I went to a fashion recruiter reception with the Fashion Industry Association, which I later
became involved with… I started looking into it and realizing how damaging the fashion industry
is for the environment in so many different ways and then it kind of just clicked immediately. All
of my interest in creative as well as business field and organizational structure and of course,
sustainability and being able to have that larger impact.
Q3. What is the mission of the Fashion Industry Association and what were your main
responsibilities as a Vice President of the organization?
Jasmine: That was really fun! Fashion Industry Association is a professional center fashion
organization that connects with industry professionals. We have different events each month,
factories and on-site visits to stores, when we were once able to do that. We had panels with
industry professionals coming in. We had individual speaker events and projects like tie-dying and
etc. It was the main outlet for USC students to have access to the fashion world, because we don’t
have a fashion program. It is based out of Marshall, a business club. I started out as Program
Manager. I basically did all the events. I wanted to restructure FIA, because it was so
commercialized. We had people coming from Fashion Nova and like companies that are really big
like Fast Fashion companies. Coming in, my main goal was to have more connections with local,
smaller, Los Angeles brands to get hands-on connections with these companies, because they were
so close-by and we have a huge manufacturing sector in the city. Some of the events that I started
organizing were design panels with local designers such as Golf Wang, Eckhaus Latta and Basic
Swim and other entrepreneurs. The following semester, I came in as Vice President, which was
67
general strategies, and I was continuing to do the events. we get to do more outings to Los Angeles
Apparel, and we went to Dover Street Market and we got to go in before it opened and look at the
stock room and tour the storeroom. Just helping USC get connected to the fashion industry and my
role has been connecting speakers to students and students with real life experiences.
Q4. Why is assessing fashion companies and measuring its impact important?
Jasmine: The tough thing about doing that in the fashion industry is that there isn’t a standard of
measuring environmental impact. Because of that, it is really difficult to access the environmental
impacts of fashion companies. Like, I’ve done that in the past. My first internship in Urban
Outfitter, I was working in buying, but it was like my personal intern project to work on a
sustainability assessment for the company. I got to speak to one of the sourcing managers who was
touring factories in China at the time and talking about where the fabrics are coming from or
talking to the buyers about how much they know about where they get their clothes from. I really
learn there that there’s no unified approach to doing that at a company that size. The way the
infrastructure is set up, it’s really hard to put that in place. Although the concept of fashion
sustainability assessment is really important and really interesting, in practice, it is actually really
difficult to evaluate. Brands don’t know [how much waste they throw out], it is so disjointed in
different parts of the company and don’t know what their environmental impact is.
Q5. Why should brands and people care about sustainability?
Jasmine: No matter what we are doing our day-to-day life, it is going to depend on the health and
planet and impact of climate change on our lives. If you want a life that’s not a hundred fifty
degrees. It impacts every aspect of our lives. It seems like a really big problem to face and because
68
of that people don’t tend to address it because it’s overwhelming to think about an individual's
impact. But, if you think about the consequences of not taking action, I can’t see how that doesn’t
outweigh the extra that it would take. From a business and company standpoint, individual people
and customers who are buying clothes are starting to realize the value of sustainability. Because
of that, we see in younger generations like surveys of people who are Gen-Z and Millennials. We
all care about sustainability way more than people before us because, obviously, it is a way more
pressing issue so you can add that to the value of the clothing item and differentiate your product
for consumers. Get more people to buy it because it’s the same as another product that I would
buy but it’s sustainable. That will help for margins and actual profits in the long-term for a profit-
driven company. Environmental assessment is difficult for companies. But, if they are actually
able to evaluate their own and try to find sustainable solutions, they are not necessarily costly, they
are just different from the norm. So, it wouldn’t necessarily [reduce] their cost and decrease their
revenue. It can be a good business decision because of the higher price and added value as well as
the same cost overall.
Q6. FABSCRAP is a nonprofit organization that partners with brands to recycle and reuse clothing
scraps. They sell unused fabrics, out-of-season clothes and keep data on how much fabrics
companies use and send that information back to brands. What do you think about FABSCRAP’s
approach?
Jasmine: That sounds really cool. I like the cost methods for selling the fabric, because they are
reasonably priced and deadstock. You are giving people an incentive to use a product that is
already made rather than having to incur the added making new products. It’s at a good price…
and the data that they are contributing to the whole system is also extremely helpful.
69
Q7. What direction do you see the fashion industry heading in the near future?
Jasmine: The pandemic has upended the fashion industry as it once was in so many different ways.
At the beginning, when shops were closing and shops that rely on in-person traffics had no revenue
because everything was shut down and fashion companies who were still able to thrive and do
really well were these huge conglomerates. It just feels like the big companies with big
[environmental] impact are getting bigger, and the smaller ones struggle. I’m hoping that these
smaller companies can find effective solutions to adapt to our changing life and times and then…
be able to reach more people. I think it’s really important to be more flexible in terms of production.
A lot of people learned that you can’t rely on wholesales, so maybe having independent production
will also help support smaller fashion companies. [As far] as general trends within the industry,
sustainability is a huge thing that we are going to see in the long-term as younger people demand
sustainability out of the product…I’ve also started noticing that fashion companies started moving
into homeware and home goods like making candles and furniture. [As] people are stuck at home
more often so just thinking about what our lives are looking like rather than going out. Businesses
are trying to change up their product offerings, based on that, that’s really interesting to see. I’m
curious to see where the fashion industry is going to go in the next few years. I honestly don’t
think that fashion is environmentally friendly in the long-term because we rely so much on hyper
consumption, continuing to buy and feeding into trends. I personally hope that changes in the near
future. I don’t know how feasible that will be, it would have to be a mental shift for people.
70
Appendix C: Brooke Furniss Interview Transcript
Q1. Can you tell me about your educational background and interest in sustainability?
Brooke: I did my undergraduate at the University of Southern California. I was a Public Relations
major. Now, I’m doing a progressive advertising degree, so I finish in May for my Master’s. I
started getting interested in sustainability during my sophomore year of college, because I started
to do a public relations campaign on Levi’s and Levi’s does a whole waterless campaign for their
jeans and really reduces a large amount of water that goes into jean making.
Q2. Where do you shop for clothes? Why?
Brooke: I love Levi’s! All of my jeans are from Levi’s. I can tell you I have stacks of them! I am
also really into Zara and H&M. Zara, if I want to splurge a little more, maybe. H&M, I have a lot
of my work clothes from them, their sizing fits me perfectly.
Q3. Would you purchase from a sustainable brand if it cost $30 more and took 15-day shipping?
Why or why not?
Brooke: Yes, I guess it would depend on the overall cost, so if it’s $20 and with $30 more, that’s
not too bad. But if it’s going to be over $100 for one piece like a shirt. Probably not. And shipping
wise, I don’t really care about shipping, because I had to deal with Coronavirus. I feel like the
shipping has been super long with what I ordered.
Q4. Why should fashion brands and people care about sustainability?
Brooke: Ok, so Levi’s was where I started off being really into sustainable fashion. I started
noticing that H & M and Zara, which are considered fast fashion brands, are taking more of a
71
sustainable approach. I think it is important because of the impact that it has on the environment.
Just like… fast fashion does not have the most ethical warehouses and child labor and stuff, which
is something that I don’t support. Just all of that together.
Q5. Tell me a little bit more about Levi’s campaign project?
Brooke: So, for my project at sophomore year, I picked Levi’s to do a campaign for. So, it was the
beginning of PR classes, it was building brand awareness rather than building a sustainability brand
business model. But I focused on their waterless campaign… they reduced the use of millions of
millions of millions of gallons of water within how you made a pair of jeans with the dye. I guess
you have to wash it out. It does use a lot of water and they also do a lot of denim recycling as well
and if you go into the stores and bring jeans that don’t fit anymore, and you don’t like them… I
think you get a 5% and 10% off coupon off your next purchase and they are big on recycling and
how they make their jeans. Inside every one of their products – shorts, jeans, jean jackets, they
have a waterless tag explaining that they shouldn’t wash them every time you wear them. They
should wear them a couple times before they wash them. And, to conserve energy, they should
wash them once and hang dry them so that they don’t use energy to dry them, etc.
Q6. FABSCRAP is a nonprofit organization that partners with brands to recycle and reuse clothing
scraps. They sell unused fabrics, out-of-season clothes at thrift store prices and whatever is leftover
they turn it into insulation for furniture. They also keep data on how much fabrics companies use
and send that information back to brands. What do you think about FABSCRAP’s approach?
72
Brooke: This is really cool. I would shop there! I’ll be interested in checking it out. Yeah, it sounds
great. If you guys can build a campaign and make it super trendy, it could be… people could get
into it.
Q7. Where do you see the fashion industry heading in the future?
Brooke: I feel like I see the fashion industry heading for a more sustainable fashion. I also feel like
as of right now, I feel like more consumers are calling out companies about their unethical or just
calling out companies about everything and anything that is bad. If this culture continues, brands
are going to have to change, even if they don’t want to. We’ll see, considering that [brands] are
getting away with it for so long.
Abstract (if available)
Abstract
Sustainability has become a marketing buzzword. In light of the negative publicity on social media and protests from environmental activist groups, the apparel industry launched “green” initiatives with plenty of promises but little action. Everyday consumers are becoming increasingly skeptical of eco-friendly claims and expressing their unapologetic opinions about corporations online. One thing is loud and clear; disposable fashion is no longer trendy. The fashion industry needs to rethink its present linear supply chain to address waste, pollution, and toxicity. Now more than ever, the fashion industry has a responsibility to the environment and future generations to consider long-lasting circular solutions. This white paper will argue that the apparel and textile industry should consider more transparent closed-loop solutions such as designing out waste and pollution, circulation of clothing, investment in vital infrastructures and a third-party assessment of environmental and social performance. A poll survey (n = 29) and a focus group (n = 16) were administered to gather an in-depth understanding of Millennials’ and Gen Z’s opinion about sustainability. Additionally, three interviews were conducted with the Community Coordinator at FABSCRAP and two University of Southern California students to gather further insights into the sustainability and the fashion industry. Three case studies featuring brands such as FABSCRAP, For Days and Patagonia were also analyzed for existing circular practices.
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Asset Metadata
Creator
Chen, Bena
(author)
Core Title
Goodbye, disposable fashion. Hello, circular solutions
School
Annenberg School for Communication
Degree
Master of Arts
Degree Program
Strategic Public Relations
Degree Conferral Date
2021-05
Publication Date
05/05/2021
Defense Date
05/05/2021
Publisher
University of Southern California
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Tag
circular fashion,fast fashion,greenwashing,OAI-PMH Harvest,supply chain,sustainability,textile waste,transparency
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Tags
circular fashion
fast fashion
greenwashing
supply chain
sustainability
textile waste
transparency