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Reinventing the wrapper, not the Whopper: the ""greenwashing"" PR behind fast food chains' niche healthy menus

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Reinventing the wrapper, not the Whopper: the ""greenwashing"" PR behind fast food chains' niche healthy menus

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Content REINVENTING THE WRAPPER, NOT THE WHOPPER: THE “GREENWASHING” PR BEHIND FAST FOOD CHAINS’ NICHE HEALTHY MENUS by Nicole Ryan A Thesis Presented to the FACULTY OF THE USC GRADUATE SCHOOL UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree MASTER OF ARTS (STRATEGIC PUBLIC RELATIONS) May 2015 Copyright 2015 Nicole Ryan 2 Dedication and Acknowledgments I owe many people thanks to have finished this thesis, including my family, friends, classmates, thesis committee and especially Jennifer Floto, my committee chair and mentor. It’s been an exhausting and rewarding two years here at University of Southern California. I’m thankful to have worked full time throughout my graduate career – a decision that organically led me to this thesis topic. By the second semester of my first year, my workweek diet spiraled into a series of fast food go-to’s, which would simultaneously be inhaled upon receipt from the drive thru. I can only hope that this paper inspires consciousness in fast food consumers like myself, and, in turn, revolutionizes the fast food industry. 3 Dedication and Acknowledgments 2 List of Figures 5 Executive Summary 6 Chapter 1: The Dichotomy of Dieting and Fast Food Consumption in the U.S. 8 The Microwave Culture 10 The Evolution of Family Dining – The Steering Wheel Dinner Table 12 A Word About the Processed Foods that are Our Staples 14 Chapter 2: Southern California’s Food Obsession 15 SoCal, the Birthplace of Fast Food 15 Los Angeles, the Mecca for Food Trends and Food Fads 17 Chapter 3: The Not-So Mysterious Link Between Fast Food & Obesity 20 What This Means to 21 st Century Consumers 21 Chapter 4: Healthy Fast Food, Is It Possible? 23 The History of “Better For You” Options & Less-Than-Healthy Sales 23 Overconsumption and Healthy Meals 26 The Diet Desire vs. Bigger is Better 26 Chapter 5: Fast Food Niche “Healthy” Menus 28 Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART 29 McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 30 Taco Bell’s Fresco Menu & The Drive Thru Diet 31 Jack in the Box’s Better for You Menu 32 Wendy’s Nutritious Flatbreads & The Right Price Right Size Menu 33 Carl’s Jr.’s “The Other Side” Menu & All-Natural Burger 34 Subway’s Heart Healthy Meal, the Fresh Fit Menu and the Jared Effect 36 The Noticeably Absent: Burger King & The Demise of “Satisfries” 38 Starbucks Customization & Online Menus 39 In-N-Out Quality & Its Not-So-Secret Menu 39 Chapter 6: The Dark Side of Low Calories 41 Risks in High-Sodium Diets 41 4 A Better-For-You High Sugar Diet? 46 Closing Food for Thought 48 Chapter 7: The Fortune in Diet Food 50 Chapter 8: Legislation & The FDA 53 Regulation on Better-For-You Claims 53 Knowledge is Power and The Display of Calories 56 Chapter 9: Greenwashing “Healthy” Fast Food 59 The Seven Deadly Sins of “Greenwashing” Fast Food PR 60 Chapter 10: The Ethics of Fast Food PR 66 Corporate Social Responsibility in Food Deserts 67 Chapter 11: We Are What We Eat 71 Bibliography 72 Appendix A: Industry Interview 80 5 List of Figures Figure 1: Fast Food "Healthy" Menu Word Cloud 29 Figure 2: Sodium Comparison Between Burger King's Whopper and Its "Healthy" Menu Alternatives 45 Figure 3: USDA's Food Access Research Atlas, mapping food deserts across the U.S. 67 Figure 4: Photographer Rebecca Ruetten's "Contemporary Pieces" 69 Figure 5: Photographer Rebecca Ruetten's "Contemporary Pieces" 70 6 Executive Summary Merriam Webster Dictionary defines “greenwashing” as “expressions of environmentalist concerns ... as a cover for products, policies, or activities.” While the traditional definition of “greenwashing” is typically held exclusive to environmental PR, it can be most simply be defined as the combination of “poor performance and positive communication about said performance.” 1 Through an analysis of fast food communications, the author reveals greenwashing PR in the fast food industry’s self-proclaimed “healthy” and “better-for-you” menu options. The national conversation on obesity, the profitability of diet foods and fast food chains’ commitment to increasing sales has spawned a myriad of new “better-for-you” niche menus. Just as many businesses emphasize “greenness” of unchanged products and practices to “reap the benefits of the expanding green market” so has the fast food industry made dubious claims about existing menu items as “better-for-you” alternative options to capitalize on the dieting industry and consumers’ health consciousness. 2 There’s plenty of green to be had in greenwashing as the market for environmentally- sustainable products and services is estimated to top $845 billion by 2015. 3 Executives are also putting big money behind these efforts as green advertising has tripled since 2006. 4 To encourage awareness of fast food chains’ questionable health claims, the author offers a Seven Deadly Sins guide that could be tailored and applied to fast food PR regarding alternative, better- for-you menus. 1 Delmas, Magali A. and Vanessa Cuerel Burbano. “The Drivers of Greenwashing.” HBR.org. Harvard Business Review, 11 Nov. 2011. Web. 14 June 2014. <https://hbr.org/product/the- drivers-of-greenwashing/an/CMR494-PDF-ENG>. 2 ibid. 3 ibid. 4 ibid. 7 Preface Research Methodology Both secondary and primary research were conducted in preparation for this thesis. The author’s primary qualitative research consisted of several interviews with both fast food executives and advertising agency executives representing fast food chains. The qualitative research included here comes from an interview with Melissa Robinson, SVP of Corporate Communications at Carl Karcher Enterprises Restaurants, Inc., the holding company for Carl’s Jr., Hardee’s, Green Burrito and Red Burrito. The researcher also compiled a word cloud drafted from secondary research of news coverage, nutrition guides, menu boards, press releases and websites dedicated to fast food “better-for-you” offerings. Secondary research included reviews of news articles, scientific studies, websites, books, blogs, U.S. government legislation and policies. 8 Chapter 1: The Dichotomy of Dieting and Fast Food Consumption in the U.S. America knows it’s fat. And now, it’s on a diet. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) claims 78.6 million American adults, representing 34.9 percent of the national population, are currently obese. 5 Aside from the obvious health complications, obese Americans are at risk to depression, anxiety and low-self esteem. 6 With the lasting effects of physical and psychological repercussions, many overweight Americans have decided to take action. In 2012, 108 million Americans were reportedly dieting. 7 But America’s efforts to trim down and be health conscious have proven to be counter productive. A 2013 study by the Institute of Health Metrics and Evaluation at the University of Washington found that poor diet habits kill more people than smoking, drinking or drug use. 8 The irony lies in pairing between the obesity epidemic alongside modern medical advancements. As science enables humans to live longer than ever before, individuals are now able to suffer longer than previously able with health complications. 9 A darker fate lies in the mortality rate of obese Americans who struggle for a healthier lifestyle through dieting. America’s new penchant for dieting was due in part by an increasing desire for food consciousness. Now, more than ever, people want to know where their food comes from. This 5 “Adult Obesity Facts.” CDC.gov. 9 Sept. 2014. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.cdc.gov/obesity/data/adult.html>. 6 “Effects of obesity and exercise: Is obesity a mental health issue?” Health.Harvard.Edu. Harvard Health, Sept. 2004. Web. 12 August 2014. <http://www.health.harvard.edu/press_releases/obesity_exercise_and_effects>. 7 “100 Million Dieters, $20 Billion: Weight-Loss Industry by the Numbers.” ABCNews.com. ABC News. 8 May 2012. Web. 12 July 2014. <http://abcnews.go.com/Health/100-million- dieters-20-billion-weight-loss-industry/story?id=16297197>. 8 “The State of US Health. 1990-2010: Burden of Diseases, Injuries, and Risk Factors.” US Burden of Disease Collaborators. JAMA. 2013;310(6):591-606. doi:10.1001/jama.2013.13805. 9 Winston, Anthony. Industrial Diet: The Degradation of Food and the Struggle for Healthy Eating. Vancouver: University of British Columbia, 2013. Print. 9 consciousness can be partially attributed to exposés like Fast Food Nation, published and heralded as a New York Times Bestseller 13 years ago and the award-winning documentary “Super Size Me,” each detailing the dark inner workings and operations of fast food chains. And yet, despite this dieting trend and the national conversation on the obesity epidemic, the annual revenue of America’s fast food industry has risen by nearly 20 percent. 10 Research has also found that the typical American eats about 49 pounds of fresh potatoes compared to more than 30 pounds of frozen French fries every year. 11 Fast food chains’ revenues and the world’s waistline didn’t expand overnight. This fascination with processed foods has been cultivated in American culture for over half a century. Rewind back to the 1950s, now known as “the ‘Golden Age of Food Processing’” when most ad campaigns made highly processed products seem “better than fresh ones, more space-age and up to date.” 12 Even cookbooks in the 1950s frequently suggested using canned and packaged products in meal preparation. 13 Highly processed foods were ingrained in the American diet when its normalization was reinforced through marketing, advertising and public relations as “widely adopted suitable foods.” 14 And while the technological advances in food processing allowed Americans the freedom to eat seasonal products year around, there was a high price on their health. Despite processed foods’ negative health effects, U.S. consumers have supported fast food chains well after the “Golden Age of Food Processing.” Until recently, most consumers 10 Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2001. 11 Schlosser, 2001. 12 Schlosser, 2001. 13 Tilove, David Brennan. "Standard American Diet and Changing American Diet." Food: In Context. Ed. Brenda Wilmoth Lerner and K. Lee Lerner. Vol. 2. Detroit: Gale, 2011. 727-732. In Context Series. Gale Virtual Reference Library. Web. 26 Dec. 2014. 14 Winston, 2013. 10 preferred processed foods and were apathetic to any possible consequences. An ongoing industry survey presented at the 26 th Annual Chain Operators Exchange in the 1990s “had found that public concerns about salt, fat, and food additives were at their lowest level since 1982, when the survey began.” 15 But since fast foods’ heyday, fast food messaging has changed, arguably in response to a rising consciousness of health effects resulting from the “Golden Age of Food Processing.” 16 The Microwave Culture Now more than ever, America wants everything fast – food, entertainment and even relationships. Americans have been growing more impatient throughout the years. In 2013, the average American’s attention span totaled roughly eight seconds, which, in comparison, is shorter than the average attention span of a goldfish. 17 Welcome to 2015, where Americans binge watch TV, swipe right for a date, loop 10 second Vine videos and electromagnetically radiate meals. People are even walking and talking faster than they used to. A 2007 global analysis of pedestrians found that the average walker paces at 3.5 mph, which is nearly 10 percent faster than a decade ago. 18 The Daily UK also reported that in Denmark, women talk 20 percent faster than they used to. 19 In fact, the quicker the consumer can get something, the more satisfied he/she is. A Princeton University study found that Americans are increasingly impatient and will default to 15 Schlosser, 2001. 16 ibid. 17 Ryssdal, Kai. “Goldfish have longer attention spans than Americans, and the publishing industry knows it.” Marketplace.org. 11 Feb. 2014. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.marketplace.org/topics/business/goldfish-have-longer-attention-spans-americans- and-publishing-industry-knows-it>. 18 Lindstrom, Martin. Buyology. New York: Doubleday, 2008. 19 ibid. 11 instant gratification, even at the expense of less reward. 20 Study participants were asked to choose between a $15 Amazon.com gift card to receive immediately or a $20 Amazon.com gift card they would receive in two weeks. 21 Tracking each individual’s brain activity, the researchers found that the possibility of getting the $15 gift card immediately triggered an “unusual flurry of stimulation in the limbic areas,” the brain structure primarily responsible for emotions. 22 And while the logical choice would be to wait two weeks for the $20 gift card, “emotions won out” and participants chose to accept the $15 gift card instantly. 23 America can’t get anything fast enough and businesses are forced to adapt to the customer’s new tempo. Fast food chains are continually racing to keep up with consumers’ demands. Select Starbucks locations have even installed cameras above order boards in drive thru’s allowing baristas to start fulfilling the order before it’s placed in the system. 24 In October 2014, Taco Bell took after Domino’s, fellow Yum brand Pizza Hut and fast casual chain Chipotle by developing a mobile app that allows customers to order their food before they arrive at the store or drive-thru. In other words, waiting at the drive-thru or in the line in-store was too laborious for customers, prompting the creation of an ordering app that effectively eliminates the waiting and human interaction traditionally involved with ordering at a fast food chain. 25 Investing in speedy drive-thru’s and operational efficiency has great financial potential for fast food chains. Taco Bell reportedly makes 65 percent of its profits through the drive-thru 20 Lindstrom, 2008. 21 ibid. 22 ibid. 23 ibid. 24 Horovitz, Bruce. “Fast-food world says drive-thru is the way to go” USAToday.com. USA Today, 3 April 2002. Web. 14 Sept. 2014. <http://usatoday30.usatoday.com/money/covers/2002- 04-03-drive-thru.htm>. 25 Schupak, Amanda. “Taco Bell joins Chipotle, Domino’s with ordering app.” CBSNews.com. CBS News, 28 Oct. 2014. Web. 12 July 2014. <http://www.cbsnews.com/news/taco-bell-joins- chipotle-dominos-with-ordering-app/>. 12 and continues to innovate new ways to increase that portion of the business. 26 Many pundits predict consumers will soon demand a quicker method to consume food, forcing the drive-thru to evolve even further in the future. McDonald’s Assistant Vice President of U.S. Operations Bob Marshall believes there will be voice- and vehicle-recognition systems to expedite the drive-thru process and meet customer demands in the near future. 27 While the technology remains under development, one thing is clear: A brand’s inability to adjust its operations or technology ensures its demise as it struggles to keep up with consumers’ shortening attention spans. Fast food chains know that they must speed up or a competitor will. The Evolution of Family Dining – The Steering Wheel Dinner Table In the 1950s, the kitchen was the center of the home, where meals were prepared and then shared at a leisurely pace. 28 By the 1970s, as middle class women continued to populate the work force, the culinary tasks typically left to the housewife went unfulfilled, prompting TV frozen dinners and fast food to emerge as viable, and preferable, options for the family table. 29 This increase in fast food consumption was paired with an uptick in sweetened beverage, nutrient- poor and salty snack consumption. 30 Between the 1950s and the 1980s, fat consumption in the U.S. had risen 41 percent while sugar intake had hiked another 10 percent. 31 In the 1950s, the kitchen was once a place where meals were thoughtfully crafted; in 2015, meals are purchased in a drive thru or unwrapped and nuked in less than two minutes. This cultural shift in the American home established carbohydrates and processed foods as the main course in everyday meals. Even 26 ibid. 27 ibid. 28 Lambert, Craig. “The Way We Eat Now.” HarvardMagazine.com. Harvard Magazine, May- June 2004. Web. 14 Sept. 2014. <http://harvardmagazine.com/2004/05/the-way-we-eat- now.html>. 29 Winston, 2013. 30 ibid. 31 ibid. 13 though there is “enormous societal pressure” on the working mother and father to make meals for their children, the typical American schedule doesn’t allow time for homemade meals. 32 Further reinforcing this carb-heavy diet, the Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Food Guide Pyramid, created in 1992, prioritized carbohydrates over every other food group, suggesting that an individual consume six to 11 servings of bread, cereal, rice or pasta daily. 33 Despite the government’s recommendation and its implication of health benefits, these carbs are mostly “high-glycemic carbohydrates which drive obesity, hyperinsulinemia, and Type II diabetes.” 34 Seeing this cultural shift, food retailers and fast food chains reacted. Most restaurant chains have styled take-out menus as “home meal replacements,” prompting a new industry of quick family dinner substitutes. 35 Fast food’s replacement of home-cooked meals has had more consequences than one. Recent studies have shown that home-cooked family dinners in addition to boosting a child’s self esteem and vocabulary, also lowers the rate of obesity and eating disorders in children and adolescents. 36 A Cornell University study found that a child who shared mealtimes with their parents around the dinner table were 35 percent less likely to engage in disordered eating, 24 percent more likely to eat healthier foods and 12 percent less likely to be overweight. 37 32 ibid. 33 Lambert, 2004. 34 ibid. 35 ibid. 36 Fishel, Anne. “FAQ.” TheFamilyDinnerProject.com. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://thefamilydinnerproject.org/resources/faq/ >. 37 Fiese, B. & Hammons, A. “Is frequency of shared family meals related to the nutritional health of children and adolescents?” Journal of the American Academy of Pediatrics, 2011. pg. 1565- 1574. 14 A Word About the Processed Foods that are Our Staples Throughout the years, processed foods have evolved from a wartime necessity to household staple. During World War II, a time when the U.S. government needed to make meals “tastier, less perishable and more nutritious” for soldiers overseas, food flavoring and processed foods emerged as viable and affordable solutions. 38 Though great advancements were made and many troops were fed, the flavor industry ultimately went on to create “bottled Ranch dressing with a shelf life of several months and Tang drink mix that tastes like oranges.” 39 Whether these time-defying foods should be considered a success is uncertain considering the secrecy of the flavor additive formulas used by flavor houses and the yet realized long-term health complications. Most of today’s current “Top 10 Foods Eaten at Home or Away” continue to be carbohydrate-heavy sandwiches, carbonated soft drinks, caffeinated coffee, starchy potatoes and salty snacks. 40 The majority of these go-to’s have high caloric counts and/or carbohydrates – an alarming realization as the staples of the American diet devolve into nutritionally void and highly processed food fillers. Even now, in the wake of organic and raw food trends, Americans’ consumption of saturated fats are higher than recommended by the American Heart Association (AHA). 41 38 Gasparro, Annie & Jesse Newman. “The New Science of Taste: 1,000 Banana Flavors.” WSJ.com. The Wall Street Journal, 30 Oct. 2014. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.wsj.com/articles/1-000-flavors-of-banana-the-new-science-of-food-additives- 1414687926>. 39 ibid. 40 Hellmich, Nanci. “Americans are making healthier food choices.” USAToday.com. USA Today, 31 Oct. 2013. Web. 15 Nov. 2014. <http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2013/10/31/fruit-increase-juice- decreases/3308427/>. 41 Doyle, Kathryn. “Americans eating less trans fat, but still too much: study.” Reuters.com. Reuters, 22 Oct. 2014. Web. 15 Nov. 2014. <http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/10/22/us- health-diet-trans-fat-idUSKCN0IB2GH20141022>. 15 Chapter 2: Southern California’s Food Obsession SoCal, the Birthplace of Fast Food Before Ray Kroc fashioned McDonald’s into the world’s largest fast food chain, two brothers, Richard “Dick” and Maurice “Mac” McDonald opened a BBQ restaurant in San Bernardino, CA, featuring a car hop service serving American cuisine. 42 Once known for its diverse menu, the McDonald brothers renovated the McDonald’s BBQ years later to offer a simplified menu, featuring french fries, shakes, soda, apple pie and its 15 cent hamburger. 43 Fourteen years after the first McDonald’s opening, multi-mixer salesman Ray Kroc met the McDonald brothers and realized an opportunity in franchising the business. Despite some initial operational struggles, Kroc persisted and by 1959, he had successfully opened over 100 new stores. 44 By 1961, Kroc bought the McDonald brothers out for $2.7 million. McDonald’s went on to revolutionize the fast food industry with a long pattern of unprecedented products: In 1968, McDonald’s debuted the now-famous Big Mac; five years later it pioneered the fast food breakfast sector by launching the Egg McMuffin; and in 1979, introduced the kid-friendly Happy Meal. 45 Building on its humble California beginnings, McDonald’s currently operates in 119 countries, representing “Americana and the promise of modernization.” 46 Ohioan Carl Karcher moved out west to Los Angeles, to later buy and run his first full- service restaurant, Carl’s Drive-In Barbeque. 47 Karcher’s barbeque restaurant was followed by the opening of two Carl’s Jr.’s in Anaheim and Brea in the 1950s. Karcher’s growth strategy 42 Tucker, Tom. "McDonald's Corporation." International Directory of Company Histories. Ed. Tina Grant and Miranda Ferrara. Vol. 63. Detroit: St. James Press, 2004. 280-286. Gale Virtual Reference Library. Web. 1 Jan. 2015. 43 ibid. 44 ibid. 45 ibid. 46 Schlosser, 2001. 47 “The Carl’s Jr. Story.” <http://www.carlsjr.com/company/story>. 16 continued to gain momentum and by the 1960s, he owned and operated 24 quality restaurants. Karcher was energized by the positive reviews of the chains’ food quality and customer service and committed the brand to product innovation. 48 Carl’s Jr. launched the now-famous Western Bacon Cheeseburger in the 1980s, the signature Six-Dollar Burger in 2001 and fast food’s first All-Natural beef burger just last year. Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, Carl’s Jr. acquired several chains including Hardee’s, the nation’s fourth-largest burger fast food chain. 49 Down south of Los Angeles, San Diego resident and businessman Robert O. Peterson opened the first Jack in the Box in San Diego, CA. Jack in the Box was one of the first fast food chains to make its drive thru a selling point, naming its speaker device “Jack.” The company claims to have pioneered the breakfast sandwich and the portable salad, but like most quick service restaurants in southern California in the 1950s, Jack in the Box was known for its hamburgers, sold at 18 cents to passing motorists. 50 In its early beginnings, a clown named “Jack” would sit on top of the drive-thru menu board and in 1995, he was fictionally positioned, through a national advertising campaign, as Jack in the Box, the “fictional founder, CEO and ad pitchman … [who had a] oversized, ping-pong ball-shaped head, biting wit and unfailing dedication to offering the finest fast-food experience to his guests.” 51 Jack was an instant hit, inspiring Jack merchandise, most impressively through 28 million Jack car antenna balls. Included on the Taco Bell website is the “Glen Bell Legacy,” a four-page document chronicling the life of Angeleno and war veteran, Glen Bell and the first Taco Bell in Downey, CA. For several years, Glen rivaled the McDonald’s brothers’ “drive-in” restaurant with his hamburger stand, “Bell’s Burgers” effectively starting a “burger revolution” in southern 48 ibid. 49 ibid. 50 “Jack in the Box History.” <http://www.jackintheboxinc.com/company/history>. 51 ibid. 17 California. 52 Many of the cultural nuances Bell noticed in 1950s Los Angeles still hold true to this day; Californians were hungry for “fast, good food.” 53 But Los Angeles in 1950s was a different culinary era, a time when many Americans weren’t familiar with a fast food taco. 54 If anyone ever ate a taco, it was at a sit-down Mexican restaurant and never at a drive thru. But the taco promised Bell a differentiation business strategy from the McDonald’s brothers’ operation and soon after of the taco’s debut, it was outselling Bell’s burgers. 55 Bell utilized public relations tactics to promote his new menu, including bringing an old truck to hand out sombreros to passersby and hiring a Mariachi band to serenade incoming customers. 56 A friend of Bell’s suggested he marry his last name with his taco passion to brand the quick service restaurant as “Taco Bell.” 57 Bell propelled the company into a national corporation through franchising and within five years of its launch, PepsiCo won the bid for Taco Bell, effectively making Bell “one of the wealthiest men in America.” 58 Now, Taco Bell is known for experimental products that push the boundaries of traditional fast food, specifically with the launch of the Doritos Locos Tacos, Crunchwrap Sliders and the infamous Waffle Taco. Los Angeles, the Mecca for Food Trends and Food Fads Los Angeles, typically known for its entertainment chops, is currently evolving into a hub for gourmet eats. Yahoo writer Kenny Porpora’s article “Sorry, New York: Los Angeles is the 52 “Glen Bell Legacy.” pg. 3. <http://www.tacobell.com/Company/newsreleases/Glen_Bell_Legacy>. 53 “Glen Bell Legacy.” pg. 2. <http://www.tacobell.com/Company/newsreleases/Glen_Bell_Legacy>. 54 “Glen Bell Legacy.” pg. 3. <http://www.tacobell.com/Company/newsreleases/Glen_Bell_Legacy>. 55 ibid. 56 ibid. 57 ibid. 58 “Glen Bell Legacy.” pg. 4. <http://www.tacobell.com/Company/newsreleases/Glen_Bell_Legacy>. 18 New Food Capital” credits Tinseltown’s reclaiming of its culinary prowess to the “great food truck movement,” the celebration of the celebrity chef and the acceptance of international delicacies. 59 Aside from its fast-food legacies, Los Angeles is also the birthplace of the gourmet burger, pressed juice and a plethora of non-GMO, non-dairy and non-gluten meals. Los Angeles has also been fertile soil for the farm-to-table food movement and takes after Portland’s fascination of the foraging trend. These food trends point to a cultural shift towards health consciousness and thoughtful food consumption, but don’t necessarily doom indulgent shops. Indulgent gourmet shops like newcomer ChocoChicken, an LA-based restaurant serving up free- range chocolate fried chicken, and the legendary Pink’s Hot Dogs, doling out its trademark chili cheese dog, prove Angelenos aren’t too worried about their waistlines, regardless of their love for pressed juice. Pink’s Hot Dogs, for example, frequently boasts a several hours-long wait and reportedly sells 2,000 hot dogs a day. 60 Los Angeles is nothing more than a microcosm for the national diet. Fast food behemoths McDonald’s, Jack in the Box, Carl’s Jr. and Taco Bell along with these healthy food trends are forced to coexist. While it would seem that the “frozen, reheated, salty, fatty foods served at McDonald’s and Burger King and KFC are the antithesis of what this new movement wants” the prominence and sales of fast food prove that American consumers aren’t as forthright with their diets as they let on. 61 Since the 1990s, the media has been covering the war on processed foods but little has been said on the dichotomy of the American diet. In schools, “parents are working 59 Porpora, Kenny. “Sorry, New York: Los Angeles is the New Food Capital.” Yahoo.com. Yahoo, 8 May 2014. Web. 16 Nov. 2014. <https://www.yahoo.com/travel/sorry-new-york-los- angeles-is-the-new-food-capital-85068605142.html>. 60 “Los Angeles Journal; Hollywood’s Indulgent Alternative to Health Food.” NYTimes.com. The New York Times, 28 Nov. 1999. Web. 16 Nov. 2014. <http://www.nytimes.com/1999/11/28/us/los-angeles-journal-hollywood-s-indulgent-alternative- to-health-food.html>. 61 Schlosser, 2001. 19 to kick fast food, junk food, and soda out,” in colleges, “idealistic college kids often dream of becoming chefs or farmers, instead of doctors and lawyers,” and in entertainment “The Food Network turned cooking into a form of mass entertainment and transformed people who cook well into celebrities.” 62 Even convenience stores are taking the pulse of food trends and responding accordingly. In September 2014, The Los Angeles Times writer Jenn Harris reported that convenience store chain 7-Eleven would be adding cold pressed juices, roasted turkey sandwiches, wraps and quinoa salads to complement its stock of Big Gulps, hot dogs and frozen breakfast burritos. 63 This food culture dichotomy between indulgence and dieting is compounded by an increased interest in physical fitness. Marketing Daily’s Karlene Lukovitz cited Varick Media Management data on the online habits of the typical fast-food target audience, males 18 to 49, and found that despite their preference for fast food, these men were still interested in “fitness, weight-loss, and yoga, frequenting sites like myfitnesspal.com and simpleyogapractice.com.” 64 62 ibid. 63 Harris, Jenn. “7-Eleven tests quinoa salad, cold-pressed juice and more.” LATimes.com. The Los Angeles Times, 30 Sep. 2013. Web. 13 Oct. 2014. <http://www.latimes.com/food/dailydish/la-dd-7-eleven-tests-tony-horton-quinoa-juice- 20140930-story.html>. 64 Lukovitz, Karlene. “Fast Food Fans Are Online Night Owls.” MarketingDaily.com. Marketing Daily, 28 August 2014. Web. 15 Nov. 2014. <http://www.mediapost.com/publications/article/233110/fast-food-fans-are-online-night- owls.html>. 20 Chapter 3: The Not-So Mysterious Link Between Fast Food & Obesity In 2008, the U.S. Department of Agriculture found that fast food has taken a bigger bite out of the American diet, reporting that it accounts for 13 percent of calories consumed, compared to a mere three percent between 1977 and 1978. 65 While no long-term studies have confirmed the link between obesity and eating fast food (primarily because the causes of obesity are more complicated and numerous than one factor), research shows just one unit of fast food consumption a week increases an individual’s chances of morbid obesity by 26 percent. 66 More alarming is the fact that obesity is now second only to smoking as the leading cause of preventable death in the United States. 67 Fast food analysts and corporate executives can deny the existence of any definitive studying linking obesity and fast food, but it seems that as Fast Food Nation author Eric Schlosser observes, “wherever America’s fast food chains go, waistlines start expanding.” 68 Despite this lack of scientific proof, the subtle danger in fast food and by proxy, obesity, remains a real, and invisible, threat to consumers. Schlosser argues that “[p]eople who smoke crack know the potential dangers; most people who eat hamburgers don’t.” 69 U.S. consumers now live in a country where eating is “a form of high-risk behavior.” 70 65 “1977-78 Nationwide Food Consumption Survey” & “2005-08 National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey.” United States Department of Agriculture. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Economic Research Service. Nationwide Food Consumption Survey, 1977-78, 2005-08. <http://www.ars.usda.gov/main/site_main.htm?modecode=12-35-50- 00>. 66 Garcia, Ginny, Thankam S. Sunil, Pedro Hinojosa. “The Fast Food and Obesity Link: An Investigation of Consumption Patterns and Severity of Obesity in Pre-Bariatric Surgery Patients.” University of Texas at San Antonio. Web. <http://paa2011.princeton.edu/papers/110556>. 67 Brolin, Robert E. & Gloria N. Beck. “Obesity second only to smoking as preventable cause of death.” Ecu.edu. East Carolina University, 7 Oct. 2005. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.ecu.edu/cs-admin/news/inthenews/archives/2005/10/101005packetobesity.cfm>. 68 Schlosser, 2001. 69 Schlosser, 2001. 70 ibid. 21 But the answer to obesity and fast food consumption doesn’t lie in scare tactics. Warning labels won’t deter consumers from eating fast food, just as health warnings on cigarettes and tobacco haven’t eradicated smoking. Martin Lindstrom, author of Buyology found that health warnings on cigarette boxes have little to no effect on smokers. 71 Lindstrom arrived at this conclusion as the only way to explain why in 2006, despite advertising bans, anti-smoking campaigns and an overhaul on health warnings, cigarette sales totaled over 5,763 billion units. 72 Through research performed by Dr. Gemma Calvert, then a Chair in Applied Neuroimaging at the University of Warwick, England, found that cigarette warnings had in fact “stimulated” the nucleus accumbens, also known as the “craving spot.” 73 And even though the study’s participants’ nucleus accumbens had been stimulated, the study found that these individuals felt “guilty” that the warning labels had stimulated their craving spots. 74 What This Means to 21 st Century Consumers The parallel between the smoking industry and the fast food industry is strikingly similar. Even as fast food corporations’ ingredients, operations and advertising have become increasingly scrutinized in major press and on Capitol Hill, U.S. fast food sales have continued to rise. Fast- food public relations professionals’ responsibility multiplies as the link between obesity and fast food strengthens. With the introduction of “better-for-you” products, fast-food public relations professionals’ roles in persuading consumers to purchase and ingest these alternative products is complicated, especially if the items aren’t as nutritious or beneficial as fast food chains have positioned the products to be. When fast food chains present an unhealthy and highly processed 71 Lindstrom, 2008. 72 ibid. 73 ibid. 74 ibid. 22 food product as healthy and tout its nutritional benefits, it further masquerades the real product’s lack of nutritional value and misleads well-intended consumers. 23 Chapter 4: Healthy Fast Food, Is It Possible? The History of “Better For You” Options & Less-Than-Healthy Sales Time and time again, fast food chains have seen record sales from indulgent items, including the now-famous Big Mac, Whopper and Thickburger. Analysts predict that many fast food chains will never discontinue high-caloric menu items because these high calorie products continue to outperform health-conscious items. Brad Tuttle, author of “Demise of ‘Satisfries’ and the Sad History of Fast Food” argues “[c]onsumers may say they want healthier options, but their actions (and dollars) speak louder than words.” 75 But as fast food chains continue to innovate and evolve to Millennial tastebuds, fast food chains are increasingly trying to capture the health conscious consumer. Unfortunately, many of these attempts to accommodate “healthy” and alternative menus preferences have resulted in a long list of failed products and poor sales. The Wall Street Journal’s Julie Jargon reports that select fast food chains have modified recipes to be healthier and strategically choose not to publicize the changes because if customers knew what the brand had changed they’d patronize another quick service restaurant for their sugar, fat and salt. 76 Boston Market Chief Brand Officer Sara Bittorf reasons that “when you tell people something’s healthy, they think it doesn’t taste good.” 77 McDonald’s Chief Executive Don Thompson revealed that “many of its more healthful offerings don't sell well” saying that its 75 ibid. 76 Jargon, Julie. “Less Salt, Same Taste? Food Companies Quietly Change Recipes.” WSJ.com. The Wall Street Journal, 23 June 2014. Web. 15 Nov. 2014. <http://www.wsj.com/articles/food- companies-quietly-cut-salt-fat-from-recipes-1403566403>. 77 ibid. 24 “salads make up only 2 percent to 3 percent of U.S. sales.” 78 McDonald’s own McLean Deluxe was considered to be “one of the biggest McDonald flops of all time”. 79 Tuttle argues that the majority of attempts at “healthy” fast food are doomed from the start because when fast food customers are “hungry for French fries, they’re focused on the fries, not calories.” 80 And yet, fast food chains continue to strive to appeal to the healthy eater, even at the expense of sales. The real financial opportunity in health-conscious product sales lies in smaller-portioned entrees. In the past, fast food chains attracted customers through large portion sizes, allowable through low commodity prices. 81 And now, in the wake of the health food craze, many fast food chains have tightened portions, increasing profit margins on health-conscious products. Even the debut of the Chicken McNugget in 1983 was an attempt at marketing alternative meals. The increase in U.S. poultry consumption in 1983 had “alarming implications for a fast food chain that only sold hamburgers.” 82 Within a month of the McNugget launch, McDonald’s became the second-largest purchaser of chicken in the U.S., second only to KFC. 83 Its success was attributed to its taste, size, but most of all its illusory health appeal. 84 Chicken is always a healthy option, right? Unfortunately, no. A chemical analysis of McNuggets by a researcher at Harvard Medical School found that Chicken McNuggets’ “‘fatty acid profile’ more closely 78 Jargon, Julie. “At McDonald’s, Salads Just Don’t Sell.” WSJ.com. The Wall Street Journal, 18 Oct. 2013. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304384104579139871559464960>. 79 ibid. 80 Tuttle, Brad. “Demise of ‘Satifries’ and the Sad History of Fast Food.” Time.com. Time, 14 Aug. 2014. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://time.com/money/3111817/burger-king-satisfries-healthy- fast-food/>. 81 ibid. 82 Schlosser, 2001. 83 ibid. 84 ibid. 25 resembled beef than poultry” and contained “twice as much fat per ounce as a hamburger.” 85 Despite its nutritional shortcomings, the McNugget remains one of McDonald’s all-time successes. Coca-Cola has continually tried to expand its market share by introducing new alternatives to its sugary products, some of which were less than satisfactory to consumers. In 2006, Coca Cola attempted to snag a piece of the coffee industry by launching Coca-Cola BlaK, which combined the iconic soft drink with small amounts of coffee. 86 Despite receiving praise from Coke executives, consumers were unimpressed, “sales were abysmal” and within a year, BlaK was discontinued. 87 Coors even tried capitalizing on the mineral water market by introducing a “beer-branded mineral water,” Coors Rocky Mountain Sparkling Water, which also proved to be a flop. 88 Since then, fast food chains have experimented with value-oriented “healthy” options including premium salads. Despite poor sales, McDonald’s Fruit and Walnut Salad was heralded as “America’s Healthiest Mall Food” by Health magazine and was quietly pulled from the menu in 2013 after the chain “listened to customers,” according to a McDonald’s spokesperson. 89 For all of their shortcomings and missed sales quotas in the “healthy” product categories, fast food chains are reactively delivering what consumers demand. Brad Tuttle argues that even with the demise of the “Satisfries” that Burger King had “simply given diners what they want[ed].” 90 85 Schlosser, 2001. 86 Lindstrom, 2008. 87 ibid. 88 ibid. 89 Baertlein, Lisa. “McDonald’s dropping Fruit & Walnut Salad, Chicken Selects in U.S.” Reuters.com. Reuters, 1 Mar. 2013. Web. 1 Oct. 2014. <http://www.reuters.com/article/2013/03/01/us-mcdonalds-menu-idUSBRE9200VI20130301>. 90 Tuttle, Brad. “Demise of ‘Satifries’ and the Sad History of Fast Food.” Time.com. Time, 14 Aug. 2014. Web. 3 Oct. 2014. <http://time.com/money/3111817/burger-king-satisfries-healthy- fast-food/>. 26 Overconsumption and Healthy Meals Recent research has suggested an ironic side effect of alternative fast food menus; “expanding menus to include healthy options may give people the sense of having fulfilled their health-related eating goals merely by considering a healthy option, licensing consumers to purchase more of the unhealthy options instead.” 91 Simply putting “red and green circles on the menu to denote healthfulness of items can lead consumers to think that the restaurant itself is healthier.” 92 Harvard researchers also found that most diners, including 23 percent of parents of school-aged children, underestimated the caloric value of their own orders. 93 These researchers discovered that the caloric perception discrepancies varied depending on the fast food chain; Subway diners were more likely to underestimate a greater number of calories than McDonald’s patrons, a fact that researchers attribute to Subway’s “health halo.” 94 The Diet Desire vs. Bigger is Better Many dieting consumers face an internal struggle in fast food stores. Lindstrom sets the scene of this conflict. “Ever walked into a fast-food restaurant with the intention of ordering the virtuous, artery-friendly iceberg-lettuce salad, but ended up going for the triple-bacon 91 Lesser, L.I., Karen Kayekjian, Paz Velasquez, Chi-Hong Tseng, Robert H. Brook, and Debroah A. Cohen. “Adolescent Purchasing Behavior at McDonald’s and Subway.” Journal of Adolescent Health. May 2013. Web. <http://www.jahonline.org/article/S1054-139X(13)00119- 5/abstract>. 92 Wilcox, Keith, Beth Vallen, Lauren Block, Gavan J. Fitzsimons. “Vicarious goal fulfillment: when the mere presence of a healthy option leads to an ironically indulgent decision.” Journal of Consumer Research. Vol. 36. October 2009. DOI: 10.1086/599219. 93 “Consumers Underestimate Calories In Fast Food By 34%.” FoodProductDesign.com. Food Product Design, 18 Nov. 2013. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.foodproductdesign.com/News/2013/11/Consumers-Underestimate-Calories-In- Fast-Food-By.aspx>. 94 ibid. 27 cheeseburger with a side of large fries instead? It was that smell that got you, right? Fresh, juicy, charcoal-y, that seductive aroma seemed to suffuse every pore of your body. You were powerless to resist it. But that smell you’re inhaling comes from … a spray canister with a name like RTX9338PJS, code name for ‘just-cooked-bacon-cheeseburger- like-fragrance’ that the fast-food restaurant was pumping through its vents.” 95 As much as consumers could blame fast food chains’ sensory tactics for relapsing into a bacon cheeseburger, Lindstrom argues that American culture and values may be the real culprit. While the increase in health consciousness has pervaded consumers’ spending habits, “thanks to the Recession, we have become, psychologically, a society of bargain-hunters, even bargain- expecters [sic]” forcing the fast food industry to accommodate. 96 Americans have long considered bigger to be better, but now more than ever, consumers are demanding bigger for less, ultimately complicating the strategy behind fast food chains’ better-for-you menus. 95 Lindstrom, 2008. 96 ibid. 28 Chapter 5: Fast Food Niche “Healthy” Menus “If a company can ally itself with universal values such as patriotism, national defense, and good health, it is likely to nurture belief.” - Professor of Marketing at Texas A&M University James U. McNeal, quoted in Fast Food Nation, 44. Brands that align their services with universal values, selling ideas just as frequently as products, typically do so in response to national issues or crises. In the midst of the Great Recession, Starbucks aligned its coffee products with patriotism, specifically with the launch of its “Let’s Create Jobs” campaign, selling red, white and blue “Indivisible” bracelets and collecting donations for the Opportunity Finance Network. 97 Even the U.S. government has utilized this philosophic-aligning strategy. During World War II, "there was a very successful U.S. government program aimed at changing eating habits," pediatrics specialist David Ludwig says, "It was called ‘food rationing.’ [The U.S. government] made it a patriotic thing to change the way you ate.” 98 Government officials recruited the “best people on Madison Avenue to work for the War Department,” a move Ludwig says “worked splendidly.” 99 In a strategy similar to this food rationing effort, fast food chains like Dunkin’ Donuts, McDonald’s, Taco Bell, Jack in the Box, Wendy’s, Carl’s Jr., Subway, Burger King, Starbucks and even In ‘N Out have aligned their brands with good health to launch unique “healthy” submenus. These brands’ efforts are summarized in the following Word Cloud: 97 <http://www.starbucks.com/responsibility/community/create-jobs-for-usa-program>. 98 Lambert, Craig. “The Way We Eat Now.” HarvardMagazine.com. Harvard Magazine, May- June 2004. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://harvardmagazine.com/2004/05/the-way-we-eat- now.html>. 99 ibid. 29 Figure 1: Fast Food "Healthy" Menu Word Cloud Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART Dunkin’ Donuts launched its DDSMART menu in 2009, vowing that DDSMART products contained “25 percent fewer calories, 25 percent less sugar, fat, saturated fat or sodium than comparable fare and/or contain ingredients or nutrients that are nutritionally beneficial.” 100 Each year after its launch, Dunkin’ Donuts has expanded DDSMART. In 2012, Dunkin’ Donuts added oatmeal, egg white flatbread sandwiches, Wake-Up Wraps and Lite Lattes. 101 In 2014, Dunkin’ Donuts added whole wheat bagels, sliced turkey breakfast sandwiches and whole grain oatmeal. 102 During a July 24, 2014 call with financial analysts to discuss 2014 second-quarter 100 “Smart Start to 2013: Dunkin’ Donuts Launches New DDSMART Twitter Sweepstakes and New Turkey Sausage Breakfast Sandwich.” 2 Jan. 2013. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://news.dunkindonuts.com/Press-Releases/SMART-START-TO-2013-DUNKIN- DONUTS-LAUNCHES-NEW-DDSMART-TWITTER-SWEEPSTAKES-AND-NEW- TURKEY-SAUSAGE-cb.aspx>. 101 “Dunkin’ Donuts Introduces Oatmeal to DDSMART Menu of Better-For-You Food and Beverages.” 5 Sept. 2012. Web. 13 Oct. 2014. <http://news.dunkindonuts.com/Press- Releases/DUNKIN-DONUTS-INTRODUCES-OATMEAL-TO-DDSMART-MENU-OF- BETTER-FOR-YOU-FOOD-AND-BEVERAGES-d9.aspx>. 102 Frankenthaler, Stan. “Get a Smart Start to 2014 with Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART Menu Items.” 10 Jan. 2014. Web. 30 earnings, President of Global Marketing and Innovation at Dunkin’ Brands John Costello explained Dunkin’ Donuts DDSMART strategy saying it’s “a choice strategy and what some people call a barbell strategy, which is offering both indulgent products and DDSMART products. And, what we’re seeing is growth in both of those products. So, for example, two of our most successful products are the Big N’ Toasted, which is a big, hearty, fill-you-up breakfast sandwich, and our Turkey Sausage Breakfast Sandwich, which is a DD Smart, lower-calorie offering.” 103 McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 Long before gourmet burgers were a food trend, “[i]n the early years of the twentieth century, hamburgers had a bad reputation … the hamburger was considered ‘a food for the poor,’ tainted and unsafe to eat.” 104 Déjà vu. Recently, McDonald’s introduced several alternative side options for its Happy Meals including: low-fat Go-Gurt, Clementines, bananas and apples after previously pulling the less-than-popular baby carrots. 105 McDonald’s has made several efforts over the years to revise its recipes to offer healthy alternatives to its top-selling items and ultimately elevate its brand. Not all of these efforts have been successful. In 2002, when the company announced it would fry its french fries in zero trans fat oil, McDonald’s customer service lines were “flooded with complaints” about the fries tasting differently, even in markets <http://www.dunkindonuts.com/DDBlog/2014/01/get_a_smart_startto.html#sthash.kLY0zjCo.dp bs>. 103 quoted in Watrous, Monica. “Balancing act benefitting Dunkin’.” FoodBusinessNews.com. Food Business News, 24 July 2014. Web. 21 Nov. 2014. <http://www.foodbusinessnews.net/articles/news_home/financial- performance/2014/07/balancing_act_benefitting_dunk.aspx?id=%7B6f3de27a-920c-4d1e-99da- d252c776b51e%7D>. 104 Schlosser, 2001. 105 Tuttle, Brad. “Demise of ‘Satifries’ and the Sad History of Fast Food.” Time.com. Time, 14 Aug. 2014. Web. 12 July 2014. <http://time.com/money/3111817/burger-king-satisfries-healthy- fast-food/>. 31 where the oil hadn’t been changed yet. 106 McDonald’s has now turned to redesigning its menu instead of revising its recipes. In 2012, McDonald’s reorganized its menu to categorize existing products into a submenu called “Favorites Under 400 Calories.” 107 In its press release announcing the menu, McDonald’s U.S. Chief Marketing Officer Neil Golden explains the inspiration for the menu came in consumer research. Golden says "customers are surprised to learn about the calorie content of some of their favorite menu options at McDonald's.” 108 But these customers aren’t surprised for the reasons one would assume. Golden further explains that customers are “surprised to know that about 80 percent of [McDonald’s] national menu choices are under 400 calories for the standard recipe.” 109 While the Favorites Under 400 menu started as a menu redesign, by 2013, McDonald’s caught on to customers’ evolving palates by debuting the McWrap and introducing egg white substitution for its breakfast sandwich line. Taco Bell’s Fresco Menu & The Drive Thru Diet Taco Bell’s Drive Thru Diet launched in 2010 and was endorsed by ordinary-customer- turned-spokesperson Christine Dougherty, a strategy reminiscent of Subway’s Jared Fogle campaign. The Drive Thru Diet was created after Christine Dougherty had lost 54 pounds after substituting Taco Bell’s alternative “Fresco” menu items for her usual fast food go-to’s five to eight meals a week. 110 Taco Bell’s current Fresco menu includes existing products, like the Burrito Supreme and the Crunchy and Soft Tacos, with Fiesta Salsa, a mix of diced tomatoes, 106 ibid. 107 “McDonald’s New U.S. Menu Platform Puts Calories Front and Center.” PRNewswire.com. PR Newswire, 23 July 2012. Web. 12 Oct. 2014. <http://www.prnewswire.com/news- releases/mcdonalds-new-us-menu-platform-puts-calories-front-and-center-163396846.html>. 108 ibid. 109 ibid. 110 “Taco Bell’s Drive Thru Diet Menu Answers Consumers’ Call for Better Choices in Quick Service Restaurants.” PRNewswire.com. PR Newswire, 20 Jan. 2010. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.tacobell.com/Company/newsreleases/Better_Choices_2010>. 32 white onions and cilantro, to replace the cheese and sauce. 111 Taco Bell supported the launch with an orchestrated campaign, including advertising, in-store promotions, websites, social media and public relations while utilizing Taco Bell’s existing NBA marketing partnership. 112 NBA dietician Ruth Carey offered healthful eating tips alongside Dougherty’s testimonial in Taco Bell’s first-ever infomercial. 113 Taco Bell’s then Chief Marketing Officer David Ovens was careful to promise any nutritional benefit from the Fresco menu saying that the submenu simply responds to customers’ demands for more variety and choices. Ovens says that “Taco Bell is committed to offering a great-tasting menu” and that including “quality ingredients like our freshly prepared Fiesta Salsa, the Drive-Thru Diet Menu offer[s] real variety in form, flavors, taste, texture and the aroma our customers love, while being lower in fat.” 114 Jack in the Box’s Better for You Menu Featured on its website, in its nutritional facts downloadable sheet, Jack in the Box lists a small selection of existing products as “Better for You” alternatives. These products include breakfast, lunch and dinner entrees ranging from the Blueberry Muffin Oatmeal with Blueberry Blend and Crumble to the Chicken Strips with Teriyaki Dipping Sauce. Jack in the Box’s Grilled Chicken Salad debuted in 2010 as a meal that customers could “enjoy and feel good about.” 115 Tammy Bailey, Jack in the Box’s division vice president of menu marketing and promotions says that the salad is “filling, yet light and meets the HealthyDiningFinder.com standards.” 116 To meet the HealthyDiningFinder.com standards, items are allowed to be 750 calories, 25 grams of 111 ibid. 112 ibid. 113 ibid. 114 ibid. 115 “Jack’s New Chicken Salad Is A Hearty Meal.” 1 Mar. 2010. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://investors.jackinthebox.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=94497&p=irol- newsArticle&ID=1396973>. 116 ibid. 33 fat and eight grams of saturated fat, at most. 117 This “Better for You” submenu was never formally introduced in a press release, but was supported by the official launch of the Egg White & Turkey Breakfast Sandwich before the New Year’s health season on December 30, 2013. While the headline of the press release states that “Jack in the Box Expands Its Healthier Menu Options By Introducing Egg White & Turkey Breakfast Sandwich” it is unclear what this “healthier” menu actually promises. Vice President of Menu Strategy & Innovation Iwona Alter explains that the fast food chain is committed to “offering better for you options for our guests to enjoy … because fans are looking for alternatives to their everyday Jack in the Box favorites, and it’s important to us to provide them with the variety of delicious options they crave.” 118 Wendy’s Nutritious Flatbreads & The Right Price Right Size Menu Wendy’s has utilized two strategies to capitalize on the health-conscious consumer. First, the fast food chain has offered two limited-time only low-calorie products, touting the products’ nutritional benefits. In 2013, Wendy’s launched its grilled chicken flatbreads, in Smoky Honey Mustard and Asiago Ranch, claiming the items were only 370 calories and contained protein, vitamins and fibers. 119 The flatbreads were included in Wendy’s “Now That’s Better” rebranding campaign, intended to reposition Wendy’s as a premium, high-quality fast food chain. 120 Its 117 “About.” HealthyDiningFinder.com. Web. 12 Nov. 2014. <www.healthydiningfinder.com/About/This-Site>. 118 “Jack in the Box Expands Its Healthier Menu Options By Introducing Egg White & Turkey Breakfast Sandwich.” 30 Dec. 2013. Web. 4 Nov. 2014. <http://investors.jackinthebox.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=94497&p=irol- newsArticle&ID=1887162>. 119 Kim, Caroline. “Are ‘Healthy’ Fast Food Options Really Better for You?” YahooFinance.com. Yahoo Finance, 3 April 2013. Web. 13 Oct. 2014. <http://finance.yahoo.com/blogs/the-exchange/healthy-fast-food-options-really-better- 184057696.html>. 120 Morrison, Maureen. “Wendy’s Unveils New Ad Tagline.” AdAge.com. Advertising Age, 5 April 2012. Web. 21 Nov. 2014. <http://adage.com/article/news/wendy-s-unveils- tagline/233972/>. 34 second strategy emphasized value and by proxy portion control. Wendy’s “Right Price Right Size” menu intends to capture value-conscience customers while encouraging portion control. Each product featured on its Right Price Right Size menu is reminiscent of a “fun size” portion, at a discounted price. Items like the Garden Side Salad, Grilled Chicken Wrap and Spicy Chicken Wrap naturally find their place in this type of menu, while other decadent products, including the Classic Chocolate Frosty, Double Stack hamburger and Jr. Cheeseburger Deluxe conspicuously parade alongside. Carl’s Jr.’s “The Other Side” Menu & All-Natural Burger Despite its reputation for indulgence and decadence, Carl’s Jr. and Hardee’s announced an alternative menu, the “Other Side” in the summer of 2014. The “Other Side” menu items feature a variety of existing products including charbroiled turkey burgers, lettuce-wrapped hamburgers, chicken sandwiches and salads. The “Other Side” isn’t listed on menus in stores but rather on two microsites with the brands’ names inverted, rjslrac.com and seedrah.com. “The Other Side” combines three health-conscious styles: “Low Carb It” with a lettuce wrap, “Veg It” with a meat substitute or “Trim It” with lowering fat and calories by eliminating mayonnaise and cheese, and substituting chicken and wheat buns. The lack of awareness of Carl’s Jr. and Hardee’s alternative options prompted the creation of the “Other Side,” says Senior Vice President of Corporate Communications at CKE Restaurants Inc., the parent company to Green Burrito, Red Burrito, Carl’s Jr. and Hardee’s, Melissa Robinson. “People know [Carl’s Jr.] for our charbroiled burgers and for offering premium food for little money” but not for “our alternatives, including our turkey burger and our vegetarian options. People don’t know the other side of Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s,” Robinson says. 121 121 “Interview with Melissa Robinson.” Personal interview. Sept. 2014. 35 While Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s has typically attracted a young, predominantly male demographic, Robinson says that the typical customer continues to evolve and “are looking for less additives, less salt, less fat, etc.” 122 Considering several Carl’s Jr. and Hardee’s burgers top 1,000 calories, Robinson suggests that company officials have to also think, “‘Who is the young hungry Millennial bringing with them to Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s?’” and consider if they would want an indulgent burger. But that doesn’t mean that Carl’s Jr. or Hardee’s has radically changed its menu for its Other Side menu, rather the alternative menu “doesn’t feature any new products, it’s still the same quality products [Carl’s Jr.] has always served.” 123 But despite CKE’s commitment to evolving customer palates, Robinson suggests that customers tastes might not have changed all that much. “Interestingly, whenever we launch a salad or a turkey burger, we’ve found that people try it, but ultimately end up going back to their charbroiled burger and fries. Because that’s what they come here for. That’s what people want,” Robinson says. To validate this consumer behavior, months following the launch of the “Other Side,” Carl’s Jr. and Hardee’s debuted the Mile High Bacon Thickburger, with record sales, according to Robinson. In its most recent health-conscious efforts, in December 2014, Carl’s Jr. debuted fast- food’s first all-natural beef burger. Carl’s Jr.’s All-Natural Burger is comprised of an all-natural, grass-fed, free-range beef patty with no antibiotics, no steroids and no added hormones. “Greater awareness for health and wellness is driving the growth in healthful menu items, yet our research indicates that the majority of consumers still opt for more indulgent food,” said Darren Tristano, EVP of Technomic Inc. 124 The dichotomy “between healthfulness and indulgence makes an All- 122 ibid. 123 ibid. 124 quoted in “Carl’s Jr. Revolutionizes Fast Food With New All-Natural Burger.” 10 Dec. 2014. Web. 21 Nov. 2014. <http://investor.ckr.com/press-release/carls-jr/carls-jr-revolutionizes-fast- food-new-all-natural-burger>. 36 Natural Burger on-trend” also giving Carl’s Jr. a “‘health halo’” 125 The push and pull between these two desires also illuminates Carl’s Jr. hesitance in producing lower-calories options and instead emphasizes its strategy of promoting existing Carl’s Jr. products in a new way. Subway’s Heart Healthy Meal, the Fresh Fit Menu and the Jared Effect It all started 15 years ago when a man named Jared Fogle lost 245 pounds in a year by creating his own diet, substituting his usual unhealthy fare for a Subway six-inch sandwich at lunch and a footlong veggie sandwich at dinner. 126 In 2007, Subway announced it would serve new menu items on its Fresh Fit menu to help customers “lead a better and more active lifestyle” while “helping fight childhood obesity.” 127 The Fresh Fit menu was designed with help from the American Heart Association and suggests different products for adults and kids. 128 The Fresh Fit six-inch subs contain six grams of fat or less and are designated with an “apple-shaped icon allowing customers to easily identify and order the ‘better-for-you’ options.” 129 Subway prides itself on being the first fast food chain to earn the American Heart Association’s Heart Check for heart-healthy meals. All of these meals are 700 calories or less, 30 percent or less calories from fat, 26 grams or less of total fat, five grams or less of saturated fat, 900 mg or less of sodium, 105 milligrams or less of cholesterol and at least 10 percent of the daily value of one of six beneficial 125 ibid. 126 Murray, Rheana. “Subway commercial spokesperson Jared Fogle marks 15 years of turkey subs and keeping the weight off.” NYDailyNews.com. The New York Daily News, 9 June 2013. Web. 21 Nov. 2014. <http://www.nydailynews.com/life-style/health/jared-subway-guy-marks- 15-years-turkey-subs-article-1.1365511>. 127 “Subway Restaurants Introduce New ‘Subway Fresh Fit’ Menu Nationwide.” PRNewswire.com. PR Newswire, 8 Mar. 2007. Web. 17 Nov. 2014. <http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/subwayr-restaurants-introduce-new-subway-fresh- fittm-menu-nationwide-51650187.html>. 128 ibid. 129 ibid. 37 nutrients. These heart-healthy meals suggest Subway Fresh Fit sandwiches be enjoyed with apples and a bottle of water. Since then, Subway’s Fresh Fit menu has recruited a slew of “Famous Fans of Subway” to vouch for its products on its website. Subway’s celebrity athletes, as well as two sports reporters, are both active and retired and have a small description touting her or his physical prowess (or at least vast knowledge of sports) alongside their favorite Subway sandwich. Pairing the celebrity endorsers’ sports skills alongside their favorite sub positions Subway as a part of a healthy lifestyle. Subways’ Fresh Fit endorsers include: Washington Redskins’ quarterback Robert Griffin III and his footlong turkey breast; Oakland Raiders’ defensive end Justin Tuck and his footlong oven roasted chicken sandwich; Oklahoma City Thunder’s Russell Westbrook and his chicken and bacon ranch melt; retired Brazilian soccer player Pelé and his tuna sandwich; the decorated and controversial Olympian Michael Phelps and his two favorite sandwiches, the footlong turkey breast and the oven roasted chicken sandwich; NASCAR driver Carl Edwards and his footlong sweet onion and chicken teriyaki; Philadelphia Phillies’ first baseman Ryan Howard and his footlong roast beef; retired and former paraplegic Eric LeGrant and his black forest ham; FoxSports.com writer Jay Grazer and his footlong meatball marinara; and ESPN host and sports analyst Mike Greenberg and his footlong double meat turkey breast. Interestingly, several athletes feature sandwiches that are not included on the Fresh Fit menu, most notably the footlong spicy Italian as well as the chicken and bacon ranch melt, both of which contain a whopping 28 grams of fat each. Featuring these sandwiches alongside athletes with their sports gear implies these meals are a staple to an active, and by proxy, healthy lifestyle. 38 Subway has recently garnered another celebrity endorsement, First Lady Michelle Obama. In January 2014, the brand announced a three-year commitment, along with $41 million in “media value,” to Mrs. Obama’s “Let’s Move” campaign, encouraging healthy eating habits to fight childhood obesity. 130 While Subway’s Fresh Fit menu isn’t new, its celebrity-driven strategy is a recent tactic employed in its promotion. The Noticeably Absent: Burger King & The Demise of “Satisfries” Aside from the Morning Star Veggie Burger and its three standard salads (garden, chicken Caesar, and chicken, apple and cranberry garden), Burger King has made very few attempts at “healthy” fast food. Most of its health-conscious products have resulted in poor sales and therefore are quickly abandoned. Burger King’s “Satisfries,” its brief foray into healthy fast food in March 2014, were 30 percent fewer calories, 40 percent less fat than McDonald’s fries and priced at 15 percent more than Burger King classic fries. 131 Months later, Burger King’s Satisfries were discontinued voluntarily as only 2,500 franchisees out of 7,500 in the U.S. decided to forego an extension for the Satisfries limited-time test market launch. While Satisfries’ failure could be attributed to franchisees’ unwillingness to carry the new product, Tuttle hypothesizes that when food retailers attempt to cater to health trends by cutting fat, salt or calories, customers “don’t act favorably” because they “know their favorite indulgences have changed.” Within the same week of cutting the Satisfries, Burger King returned to its status quo and announced the return of the chicken fries, citing “an overwhelming number of enthusiastic 130 Boyer, Dave. “Move over Jared: Michelle Obama becomes Subway’s newest celeb partner.” WashingtonTimes.com. The Washington Times, 23 Jan. 2014. Web. 15 Nov. 2014. <http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2014/jan/23/michelle-obama-becomes-newest-face- promote-subway-/>. 131 Tuttle, Brad. “Demise of ‘Satifries’ and the Sad History of Fast Food.” Time.com. Time, 14 Aug. 2014. Web. 31 Oct. 2014. <http://time.com/money/3111817/burger-king-satisfries-healthy- fast-food/>. 39 tweets, Change.org petitions, dedicated Tumblr and Facebook pages and phone calls from devoted fans” as justification for the cult classic comeback. Starbucks Customization & Online Menus Starbucks features four health-conscious submenus including: Foods Under 350 Calories, Foods with 10g Fat or Less, Foods with 600 mg Sodium or Less and Delicious Drinks Under 200 Calories. These niche menus are only listed on Starbucks’ website and feature existing products that qualify in each category. While the concept is noble, Starbucks’ distinction between healthy and non-healthy foods grows increasingly confusing as one scans the menu. Whether you consider a chocolate cake pop, a chocolate croissant or a cheesecake brownie as alternative items is debatable. Aside from its submenus, Starbucks also embraces customers’ customization of its products, allowing individuals to choose skinny lattes, light frappuccinos, soy over cream and nonfat milk over low fat milk. In-N-Out Quality & Its Not-So-Secret Menu The Not-So-Secret menu was originally inspired by frequent In-N-Out customer customization requests. And it’s no secret that In-N-Out’s Not-So-Secret menu doesn’t necessarily devote itself to health-consciousness. The Not-So-Secret menu’s signature items most notably include the 4x4, a four-beef-patty burger, and its 3x3, a three-beef-patty burger, a double meat burger, a grilled cheese and an “Animal” style burger, with extra spread. In contrast, In-N-Out’s secret menu also offers “protein-style” burgers, replacing the bun with a lettuce wrap. This substitution eliminates 150 calories. With the exception of the protein-style burger, none of these Not-So-Secret menu items are included on the nutrition chart. Even though In-N-Out is famous for its simplified menu, the fast food chain decided to embrace the secret menu because it was customer-created. On its website, the justification for the Not-So-Secret menu reads, “[The 40 Not-So-Secret menu] is just the way some of our customers like their burgers prepared, and we’re all about making our customers happy.” 132 132 Web. www.in-n-out.com/menu/not-so-secret-menu.aspx. 41 Chapter 6: The Dark Side of Low Calories Risks in High-Sodium Diets According to the President’s Council on Fitness, Sports and Nutrition, 90 percent of Americans eat more sodium than is recommended for a healthy diet, with U.S. adults typically consuming 3,400 milligrams of sodium daily. 133 For many dieting consumers, the sole focus is on lower calorie options, even at the expense of high sodium ingredients. This disregard for high sodium intake has serious long-term health implications. A high-sodium diet can increase the risk of heart disease, kidney disease and stroke. 134 If individuals reduced their sodium intake by 1,200 mg per day, the President’s Council on Fitness, Sports and Nutrition estimates that $20 billion would be saved in yearly medical costs. 135 The FDA advises that 480 milligrams or more of sodium per serving is high while 120 milligrams of less of sodium per serving is low. Most concerning is research proving the high-sodium count in fast food. On average, fast food contains 1,864 milligrams per 1,000 calories, which is considerably higher than the average sodium count of foods prepared at home with 1,369 milligrams of sodium. 136 And while one could argue that most consumers naturally assume fast food favorites are higher in fat and sodium than foods prepared at home, reviewing fast food chains’ “better-for-you” options under the lens of the FDA’s sodium guide reveals a unexpected and dangerous risk in consuming these alternative products. 133 Web. <www.fitness.gov/resource-center/facts-and-statistics/>. 134 Web. <www.fda.gov/Food/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/ucm315393.htm>. 135 ibid. 136 Lin, Biing-Hwan & Joanne Guthrie. “Nutritional Quality of Food Prepared at Home and Away From Home, 1977-2008.” Economic Information Bulletin No. (EIB-105). December 2012. Web. 21 Sept. 2014. <http://www.ers.usda.gov/publications/eib-economic-information- bulletin/eib105/report-summary.aspx>. 42 Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART menu promises “25 percent fewer calories, 25 percent less sugar, fat, saturated fat or sodium than comparable fare and/or contain ingredients or nutrients that are nutritionally beneficial.” 137 While the commitment to reducing calories, sugar, fat and sodium is laudable, DDSMART items are merely valued in comparison to other indulgent Dunkin’ Donuts items. Only half of the available DDSMART items are in line with the FDA’s suggested sodium consumption. The whole wheat bagel, the egg & cheese on an English muffin, the ham, egg & cheese on an English muffin, the reduced fat blueberry muffin and the turkey sausage flatbread, with a whopping 1000 milligrams of sodium, all exceed the FDA’s suggested sodium level per serving. McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 Perhaps this submenu would best be titled McDonald’s Favorites Over 400 Milligrams of Sodium. Even McDonald’s salad, the most seemingly benign item on its Favorites Under 400 menu, has a dangerously high sodium count. In fact, the Premium Southwest Salad with Crispy Chicken, for example, has only 450 calories but over 800 milligrams of sodium, which in comparison, is nearly the same as the McDouble sandwich. 138 Every hot item – and several of the premium salads – available on the submenu are over the FDA limits. The McWrap, even in its 137 “Smart Start to 2013: Dunkin’ Donuts Launches New DDSMART Twitter Sweepstakes and New Turkey Sausage Breakfast Sandwich.” 2 Jan. 2013. Web. 14 Sept. 2014. <http://news.dunkindonuts.com/Press-Releases/SMART-START-TO-2013-DUNKIN- DONUTS-LAUNCHES-NEW-DDSMART-TWITTER-SWEEPSTAKES-AND-NEW- TURKEY-SAUSAGE-cb.aspx>. 138 Kim, Caroline. “Are ‘Healthy’ Fast Food Options Really Better for You?” YahooFinance.com. Yahoo Finance, 3 April 2013. Web. 14 June 2014. <http://finance.yahoo.com/blogs/the-exchange/healthy-fast-food-options-really-better- 184057696.html>. 43 smaller portioned “snack size,” contains 650 milligrams of sodium and eight grams of fat for a meager 250 calories. 139 Taco Bell’s Fresco Menu and High Sodium CNN’s article “Taco Bell: Making a run for weight loss?” reveals that the Fresco menu items are not prepared or cooked differently, but instead substitute the shredded cheese and sauce with tomato, onion and cilantro salsa. While this substitution eliminates 20 to 100 calories, the high sodium count remains. 140 All of Taco Bell’s Fresco menu, with the exception of the Fresco Crunchy Taco and Fresco Grilled Steak Soft Taco, are considered high-sodium meals, according to FDA standards. Most concerning is Taco Bell’s Fresco Burrito Supreme, available in both Chicken and Steak, each containing 1060 milligrams of sodium per serving. Subway, High Sodium and Yoga Mat Bread So Taco Bell embellished a little – Subway’s Jared wouldn’t hyperbolize the health benefits of Subway’s sandwiches, would he? Unfortunately, yes. In a 2013 study titled “Adolescent purchasing behavior at McDonald’s and Subway” researchers found that while Subway’s Jared Fogle campaign had garnered a “halo effect,” Subway menu items were not significantly lower in sodium than items at McDonald’s but in fact were “astonishingly high.” 141 Less than half of the subs featured as a Heart Healthy meal on Subway’s menu contain an acceptable amount of sodium. To further complicate Subway’s health halo, in April 2014, a food blogger revealed Subway’s bread contained azodicarbonamide, a chemical approved by the FDA 139 ibid. 140 Park, Madison. “Taco Bell: Making a run for weight loss?” CNN.com. CNN, 6 Jan. 2010. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.cnn.com/2010/HEALTH/01/05/taco.bell.diet/>. 141 Lesser, L.I., Karen Kayekjian, Paz Velasquez, Chi-Hong Tseng, Robert H. Brook, and Debroah A. Cohen. “Adolescent Purchasing Behavior at McDonald’s and Subway.” Journal of Adolescent Health. May 2013. Web. 21 Sept. 2014. <http://www.jahonline.org/article/S1054- 139X(13)00119-5/abstract>. 44 as a food bleaching agent and dough conditioner that also is used in yoga mats. 142 The blogger, Vani Hari of FoodBabe.com said she started a petition to Subway to remove the chemical because of its image as a “healthy” fast food chain. At the time, the chemical was also used in McDonald’s, Burger King and Starbucks. 143 Carl’s Jr.’s The Other Side Aside from its Trim It Famous Star Burger, with a relatively acceptable 610 milligrams of sodium, all of Carl’s Jr.’s better-for-you burger options have over 900 milligrams of sodium. The most troubling high-sodium burger is the gluten-sensitive guacamole Thickburger, containing a staggering 1,630 milligrams of sodium. Even in steering clear from burgers and choosing greens at Carl’s Jr., customers can’t secure a healthy meal. Carl’s Jr.’s original grilled chicken salad, for one, contains 880 milligrams of sodium. Burger King’s Short-Lived, High-Sodium Turkey Burger Burger King’s test-market turkey burger, that launched in 2013, had 1,210 milligrams of sodium, 26 grams and 530 calories. While the turkey burger had 100 less calories than the Whopper, it also had an additional 230 milligrams of sodium, well above the threshold of 480 milligrams suggested by the FDA. 142 “Subway: No more ‘yoga mat’ chemical in our bread.” CBSNews.com. CBS News, 14 April 2014. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://www.cbsnews.com/news/subway-no-more-yoga-mat- chemical-in-our-bread/>. 143 ibid. 45 Figure 2: Sodium Comparison Between Burger King's Whopper and Its "Healthy" Menu Alternatives 144 Wendy’s Nutritionally Beneficial, High-Sodium Flatbreads Despite its relatively low-calorie count in comparison to other items, Wendy’s flatbreads are sky-high in sodium. 145 Its only two better-for-you options, the Smoky Honey Mustard and the Asiago Ranch flatbread flatbread, contain 550 milligrams of sodium and 940 milligrams of sodium, respectively. Jack in the Box and Its Better For You Menu Jack in the Box’s Better For You Menu adheres to the standards set by the HealthyDiningFinder.com, despite the internet guide’s tolerance for high-sodium allowance. 144 Kim, Caroline. “Are ‘Healthy’ Fast Food Options Really Better for You?” YahooFinance.com. Yahoo Finance, 3 April 2013. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://finance.yahoo.com/blogs/the-exchange/healthy-fast-food-options-really-better- 184057696.html>. 145 ibid. 46 According to its website, HealthyDiningFinder.com warns that “many of the dishes listed on this website are high in sodium, and they are, therefore, inappropriate for those individuals who want or need to limit sodium intake.” 146 The site’s cautionary message states that “most of the menu items featured on [the] site do not meet FDA criteria for [being] ‘healthy.’” 147 Among its highest-sodium entrees, Jack in the Box’s Better For You menu offers chicken strips with teriyaki sauce with 1,550 milligrams of sodium, the chicken teriyaki bowl with 1,910 milligrams of sodium and the chicken fajita pita with whole grain with 1,000 milligrams of sodium. A Better-For-You High Sugar Diet? The extent to which high-sugar diets affect long-term health is debatable among researchers. Some argue that sugar is toxic while others differentiate health effects from sugar apart from the health consequences of consuming added sugars. Regardless, the FDA supports the Dietary Guidelines for Americans’ recommendation for “reducing added sugars and solid fats because high intake can decrease the intake of nutrient-rich foods.” 148 Unlike sodium consumption, the suggested sugar intake varies between men and women. According to the American Heart Association (AHA), the maximum amount of added sugars men should consume daily is 37.5 grams and 25 grams for women. 149 While few of these fast food alternatives’ sugar count may be surprising, positioning these products as a better-for-you items despite their high- sugar counts is undoubtedly unethical. 146 “About.” HealthyDiningFinder.com. Web. <http://www.HealthyDiningFinder.com/About/This-Site>. 147 ibid. 148 “Proposed Nutrition Facts Label Changes Are Based on Science and Research.” FDA. Web. <http://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm387164.htm>. 149 Web. <http://www.heart.org/HEARTORG/GettingHealthy/NutritionCenter/HealthyEating/Sugar- 101_UCM_306024_Article.jsp>. 47 Dunkin’ Donuts’ DDSMART Most of the high-sugar products on the DDSMART menu are to be expected. The majority of the Lite Lattes, while lower in calories, are still high in sugar, such as the Caramel Latte Lite Large, which has 56 percent fewer calories than the Large Caramel Swirl Latte with Skim Milk, but contains 20 grams of sugar. As for its DDSMART entrees, the DDSMART reduced fat blueberry muffin contains 40 grams of sugar per serving, which is over the suggested daily sugar intake for both men and women. The entree with the second-highest sugar count is the DDSMART brown sugar flavored oatmeal with dried fruit toppings, racking up 28 grams of sugar per serving, putting female consumers over the suggested daily sugar consumption by the AHA. McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 The inclusion of the hot fudge sundae, the vanilla cone, the snack-size OREO McFlurry and baked apple pie ensures high-sugar options are available on McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 menu. But aside from the obvious high-sugar desserts, McDonald’s Favorites Under 400 also includes several inconspicuous items. The Fruit ‘N Yogurt parfait, while listed on the Favorites Under 400 menu, is mostly, if not entirely sugar with 23 grams packed in 150 calories. As for high-sugar breakfast options available on the Favorites Under 400, the Fruit & Maple Oatmeal tops 32 grams of sugar, exceeding both male and female daily sugar suggestions by the first meal of the day. Taco Bell Fresco Menu In an interview with Adweek, Taco Bell’s then-CMO David Ovens announced the Fresco menu would emphasize fresh, natural food and drink including the Frutista Freeze drinks, which 48 Ovens claimed had “no artificial flavors or colors and no high-fructose corn syrup.” 150 Despite this promise, CBS News reported in its article “Taco Bell’s ‘Drive-Thru Diet’: Not a Diet and Not Exactly Fresh and Natural Either” that the Mango Frutista Freeze contains artificial food dye yellow 6, artificial preservatives potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate, and no mangoes or mango juice, along with 18 grams of sugar. 151 Jack in the Box Better For You Jack in the Box’s Better for You Menu includes three smoothies, mango, strawberry and strawberry banana, all of which contain over 50 grams of sugar per 16 ounces. But it’s the unsuspecting Better for You Chicken Teriyaki Bowl that is most deceiving, with 35 grams of sugar and a whopping 1910 milligrams of sodium, the highest of the entire Better for You menu. Closing Food for Thought Nutritionist and Certified Diabetes Educator Megan Fendt, who is quoted in Kim’s “Are ‘Healthy’ Fast Food Options Really Better for You?” stresses that “each person is different and thus the health focus will vary” specifically if someone is focused on “maintaining a healthy weight, the focus should be on calories; for hypertension, sodium; and for diabetes, carbohydrates.” 152 But if calories are reduced at the expense of increased sodium or high-sugar consumption, one health complication is immediately replaced with another. The obsession with 150 O’Leary, Noreen. “Q&A: Taco Bell’s David Ovens.” Adweek.com. Adweek, 27 July 2010. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://www.adweek.com/news/advertising-branding/qa-taco-bells-david- ovens-102911>. 151 Warner, Melanie. “Taco Bell’s ‘Drive-Thru Diet’: Not a Diet and Not Exactly Fresh and Natural Either.” CBSNews.com. CBS News, 3 Aug. 2010. Web. 15 Oct. 2014. <http://www.cbsnews.com/news/taco-bells-drive-thru-diet-not-a-diet-and-not-exactly-fresh-and- natural-either/>. 152 Kim, Caroline. “Are ‘Healthy’ Fast Food Options Really Better for You?” YahooFinance.com. Yahoo Finance, 3 April 2013. Web. 12 Oct. 2014. <http://finance.yahoo.com/blogs/the-exchange/healthy-fast-food-options-really-better- 184057696.html>. 49 lower calories has caused consumers to turn a blind eye to the dangers of high sodium and high sugar intake. 50 Chapter 7: The Fortune in Diet Food As obese Americans attempt to trim down, food corporations’ margins ramp up. In 2012, the diet industry’s revenue topped $20 billion, enticing many restaurants and fast food chains to participate in the diet food craze. 153 For this reason, many of the same corporations feeding consumers highly processed fat-inducing foods are the same companies peddling diet food products. But it doesn’t matter where the diet food and false promises come from, obese individuals are desperate for change. Four thousand overweight and obese Americans included in a 2006 Yale study said they would rather lose a year off their life than be fat. 154 Low-self esteem, hopelessness and desperation create a substantial opportunity for the diet industry as emotional decision-making takes hold of otherwise logic-driven consumers. Naturally, the least amount of behavior change the diet product offers, the more appealing it is to consumers. This behavior truism is the reason companies like Sensa, Inc., can make $364 million in sales in four years. 155 Instead of restricting food intake or extending physical activity, Sensa promises weight-loss by sprinkling its white dust-like powder (comprised of maltodextrin, tricalcium phosphate and silica, peppered with natural and artificial flavors) onto any food of choice. Unfortunately, government officials and researchers agree that these no-behavior change weight-loss products are nothing but false advertising. The “chances of being successful [in weight-loss] just by sprinkling something on your food, rubbing cream on 153 “100 Million Dieters, $20 Billion: The Weight-Loss Industry by the Numbers” ABCNews.com. ABC News, 8 May 2012. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://abcnews.go.com/Health/100-million-dieters-20-billion-weight-loss- industry/story?id=16297197>. 154 Oakes, Ranlyn. “Diet Industry Facts.” Livestrong.com. Web. <http://www.livestrong.com/article/207926-diet-industry-facts/>. 155 Lopez, Ricardo. “FTC orders weight-loss firm Sensa Products to return $26.5 million.” LATimes.com. The Los Angeles Times, 7 January 2014. Web. 15 Oct. 2014. <http://articles.latimes.com/2014/jan/07/business/la-fi-ftc-sensa-20140108>. 51 your thighs or using a supplement are slim to none. The science just isn't there," said Jessica Rich, director of the FTC's Bureau of Consumer Protection, in a statement to CNN. 156 Better-for-you fast food health claims appeal to this tendency by offering customers a diet product that doesn’t require them to sacrifice their drive-thru favorites. But unlike the diet food industry, fast food chains have yet to be penalized for over-zealous claims. Now more than ever, the weight-loss industry is riddled with lawsuits of false advertising, class action lawsuits and claims. Diet companies’ propensity to mislead customers has prompted the FTC to launch a coordinated effort, called “Operation Failed Resolution,” to “crack down” on companies that tout false claims regarding weight-loss products. 157 The FTC recently reached a settlement with Sensa, Inc. LeanSpa LLC while announcing it had filed charges against L’Occitane and HCG Diet Direct. 158 While some consumers may be driven to purchase better-for-you items primarily because of their supposed health benefits, many customers would be inclined to try a new alternative product simply because it’s a premium item. Premium, better-for-you menus give fast food chains the opportunity to charge more for a smaller portion, ultimately increasing the profit margin while tapping into consumers’ health consciousness. Despite this increase in price, fast food consumers still prefer premium, quality ingredients. The American Customer Satisfaction Index, a market-based performance measure, found that “customer satisfaction is more quality- driven than value- or price-driven.” 159 A 2011 study conducted by Technomic, a food service 156 Wilson, Jacque. “Weight-loss companies charged with false advertising.” CNN.com. CNN, 8 Jan. 2014. Web. 15 Oct. 2014. <http://www.cnn.com/2014/01/08/health/weight-loss-companies- fraud/>. 157 ibid. 158 ibid. 159 Fornell, Claes, Michael D. Johnson, Eugene W. Anderson, Jaesung Cha and Barbara Everitt Bryant. “The American Customer Satisfaction Index: Nature, purpose, and findings.” Journal of Marketing. Vol. 60, No. 4. Oct. 1996, pp. 7-18 52 research and consulting firm with clients including Burger King, Carl’s Jr., Dunkin Donuts, KFC and Taco Bell, found that 28 percent of diners would pay up to five percent more for beef items that were marked as “premium.” 160 The majority of study participants would pay more for premium items than they would for items that were steroid-free, hormone-free, antibiotic-free, natural or organic. 161 For decades, fast food companies have purchased frozen fries for “about 30 cents a pound, reheat[ed] them in oil, then [sold] them for about $6 a pound.” 162 But for the first time in history, fast food chains can now buy low-cost lettuce and charge a premium for a signature salad. <http://www.jstor.org/discover/10.2307/1251898?sid=21105546631093&uid=2129&uid=2&uid =70&uid=4>. 160 Technomic’s 2011 Center of the Plate Beef & Pork Consumer Trend Report. 2011. Web. 15 Oct. 2014. <https://www.technomic.com/Reports_and_Newsletters/Consumer_Trend_Reports/dyn_PubLoa d.php?pID=36>. 161 ibid. 162 Schlosser, 2001. 53 Chapter 8: Legislation & The FDA Regulation on Better-For-You Claims In a 2012 study, 52 percent of Americans believed doing their taxes was easier than figuring out how to eat healthy. 163 Further research has echoed this finding in proving that U.S. customers are illiterate in label reading. The consulting firm, AlixPartners, conducted a survey finding that only nine percent of customers said cynocobalamin was “good for them.” When cynocobalamin was listed as its simpler name, vitamin B12, 97 percent of consumers said it was good for them. 164 This confusion is caused by the complicated web of legislation and lack of regulation on claims regarding health-related food products. Many claims and specific words are monitored by the U.S. government, including “healthy,” “fresh,” and “organic” while “all natural” “better-for-you” and “alternative” don’t have a regulatory definition. While there is no regulatory definition for “healthy,” the FTC monitors advertising of food to children, with a particular focus on food companies marketing and childhood obesity. 165 When the FTC reviews food advertising, including use of the word “healthy,” it analyzes the claims in context to evaluate if the ad is deceptive or misleading. The word “fresh,” on the other hand, is only regulated by the FDA if it implies that the food is unprocessed or unpreserved. 166 For the word “organic,” the FDA passed responsibility of regulating claims to the Agricultural Marketing Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture 163 Schlosser, Eric. "Americans Are Obsessed with Fast Food: The Dark Side of the All- American Meal." CBSNews.com. CBS News, 31 Jan. 2002. Web. 7 Oct. 2014. <http://www.cbsnews.com/news/americans-are-obsessed-with-fast-food-the-dark-side-of-the-all- american-meal/>. 164 ibid. 165 “Division of Advertising Practices.” FTC. <http://www.ftc.gov/about-ftc/bureaus- offices/bureau-consumer-protection/our-divisions/division-advertising-practices>. 166 USDA Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 2. <http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=133>. 54 (USDA), which oversees the National Organic Program (NOP). The NOP defines "organic" as foods that “integrate cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity.” 167 The NOP offers certification for businesses wanting to use the claim, ensuring that the food’s ingredients meet NOP standards. The NOP also enforces labeling standards based on the percentage of organic ingredients in food. As for the word “natural,” the FDA doesn’t offer a definition but states that it “isn’t opposed” to use of the word as long as the product doesn’t contain “added color, artificial flavors or synthetic substances.” 168 This stance allows companies to make individual judgment calls on what products are appropriately labeled “all natural.” Up until recently, consumers have been ingesting “natural” flavors under the impression the ingredients were wholesome and somewhat healthy. But while some natural flavors may be technically natural, many are far from the wholesome image of “natural” flavors in consumers’ minds. Vanilla flavoring, for example, is derived from castoreum – beaver anal excretions – effectively giving foods a “musky” vanilla taste. 169 Despite the repulsiveness of the process, castoreum is considered to be a “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS) ingredient, according to the FDA. The legal loopholes created in 1958 by Congress allow flavor companies to bypass approval from the FDA as long as the ingredient is deemed GRAS. 170 The company is in sole discretion to decide if the ingredient is a GRAS product, leaving the entire process up to the subjectivity of management. Should the 167 www.ams.usda.gov. 168 Choi, Candice. “PepsiCo rebrands ‘Natural’ products with ‘Simply.’” YahooNews.com Yahoo News, 24 Jan. 2014. Web. 8 Oct. 2014. <http://news.yahoo.com/pepsico-rebrands-39-natural-39- products-39-simply-173442485--finance.html>. 169 Gasparro, Annie and Jesse Newman. “The New Science of Taste: 1,000 Banana Flavors.” WSJ.com. The Wall Street Journal, 30 Oct. 2014. Web. 14 Nov. 2014. <http://www.wsj.com/articles/1-000-flavors-of-banana-the-new-science-of-food-additives- 1414687926>. 170 ibid. 55 company choose, it can notify the FDA of its GRAS, but because it’s entirely a voluntary effort, most don’t. 171 Natural beaver-anus-extracted vanilla flavoring aside, “‘natural flavor’ or ‘artificial flavor’ is in just about every list of ingredients” from “Stonyfield Farm organic Yogurt to Taco Bell Hot Taco Sauce.” 172 Many fast food favorites contain dubious natural flavors including Wendy’s Grilled Chicken, which contains “beef extract” while Burger King’s BK Broiler Chicken Breast Patty contains “natural smoke flavor.” 173 But exposing the sources of the flavoring of these products is more difficult than one would expect, as the flavor industry is “highly secretive.” 174 This secrecy protects the illusion of fast food products’ origins. Schlosser explains that “the fast food chains, understandably, would like the public to believe that the flavors of their food somehow originate in their restaurant kitchens, not in distant factories run by other firms.” 175 Even though “natural” flavors are typically far from natural, “consumers prefer to see natural flavors on a label, out of belief that they are healthier.” 176 Many “natural” flavors are not only unnatural, but also “not necessarily healthier or purer than an artificial [flavors].” 177 For example, “almond flavor (benzaldehyde) is derived from natural sources, such as peach and apricot pits, [but also] contains traces of hydrogen cyanide, a deadly poison.” 178 Today, most 171 ibid. 172 Schlosser, 2001. 173 ibid. 174 ibid. 175 ibid. 176 ibid. 177 ibid. 178 ibid. 56 “natural and artificial flavors are manufactured at the same chemical plants,” making the decision to call any of these flavors “natural” an extremely ironic and generous one. 179 Despite the lack of legal definitions for many of these health-related claims, major food brands are quietly changing product lines to avoid possible future lawsuits. In January 2014, PepsiCo nixed the word “natural” from its “Simply Natural” lines and the claim of “all natural” ingredients from its Frito-Lay chips, Quaker oatmeal and Naked Juice products. PepsiCo’s attempts to avoid legal action may be futile as the word “simply” is also sensitive, as it implies exclusivity. In 2010, the Center for Science in the Public Interest challenged General Mills “Simply Fruit” products for containing canola oil and carrot juice – not just fruit. 180 In 2012, Campbell Soup was sued for claiming its Pepperidge Farm Goldfish crackers were “natural” despite the inclusion of genetically modified organisms, referred to as GMOs. 181 As for the words “better-for-you” and “alternative,” there are no clear laws, restrictions or government agencies reviewing the use of the terms as they apply to health-related foods. Knowledge is Power and The Display of Calories Beyond the government’s complicated regulation on health claims, consumers are now armed with new legislation regarding the display of calories at restaurants and fast food chains. Within the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act of 2010, more commonly known as Obama Care, in section 4205, restaurants and other similar food establishments with 20 or more locations are required to include calorie counts for menu items on menus and drive through 179 ibid. 180 Choi, Candice. “PepsiCo rebrands ‘Natural’ products with ‘Simply.’” YahooNews.com. Yahoo News, 24 Jan. 2014. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://news.yahoo.com/pepsico-rebrands-39- natural-39-products-39-simply-173442485--finance.html>. 181 ibid. 57 boards. 182 Other nutritional content, such as fat, saturated fat, cholesterol, sodium, carbohydrates and sugars are not required to be published on menus but must be available in writing upon request. Despite its benefits for health-conscious customers, the new law irked several food retailers who argued that adding each item’s calorie content crowds the menu board and forces chains to limit the number of products they can feature on a menu. The Los Angeles Times’ article “FDA proposes calorie labels for fast food chains, restaurants nationwide” quotes Craig Culver, CEO of Culver’s fast food chain, saying that the calorie data would cost each store $82,000 a year in sales. 183 An FDA analysis supported this argument arguing that the new regulation could cost an estimated $537 million in total. 184 The legislation was undoubtedly aimed at fast food giants but in practice also affects small business owners and franchisees. McDonald’s franchisees, who own and operate 80 percent of McDonald’s locations, will be required to pay for new signage and commit to updating it every time the menu changes. 185 Several other propositions intended to fight obesity originally included in the Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act were cut out after lobbying from the industries affected. An additional tax on sugary beverages was struck out after lobbying from the soft drink industry. The American Beverage Association, which lists Coca-Cola Co. and PepsiCo Inc. as members, 182 “Patient Protection and Affordable Care Act.” <www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/BILLS- 111hr3590enr/pdf/BILLS-111hr3590enr.pdf>. 183 Zajac, Andrew. “FDA proposes calorie labels for fast food chains, restaurants nationwide.” LATimes.com. The Los Angeles Times, 2 April 2011. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://articles.latimes.com/2011/apr/02/news/sc-dc-0402-fda-nutrition-labels-20110402>. 184 Hattem, Julian. “FDA chief: Calorie labeling rules more difficult than expected.” TheHill.com. The Hill, 5 Nov. 2013. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://thehill.com/regulation/pending- regs/189287-fda-chief-calorie-labeling-rules-more-difficult-than-expected>. 185 Stverak, Jason. “Obamacare’s Restaurant Calorie-Label Mandate Is A Complete Mess.” Forbes.com. Forbes, 7 Feb. 2014. Web. 15 Oct. 2014. <http://www.forbes.com/sites/theapothecary/2014/02/07/obamacares-restaurant-calorie-label- mandate-is-impossible-to-implement/>. 58 has continually fought a myriad of proposed taxes on sugary drinks. Its efforts included funding a local activist organization called Stop Unfair Taxes - Coalition for an Affordable City, claiming the tax would only hurt consumers’ wallets and not their stomachs. In 2011, the legislation war on high-caloric food and drink continued. The FDA proposed new policies to require fast food chains, vending machines, coffee shops, convenience and grocery stores to post calories counts for its products. The move attempted to curb the obesity epidemic by equipping consumers with consciousness of their consumption. Yet, even if government departments were more proactive in regulating fast food consumption, there is no guarantee of success. Despite the U.S. government’s intentions of fighting obesity through legislation, many educators, including Georgetown University biochemist Thomas Sherman, argue that the real potential for change lies in several arenas, including changing food marketing and public relations. 186 186 Zajac, Andrew. “FDA proposes calorie labels for fast food chains, restaurants nationwide.” LATimes.com. The Los Angeles Times, 2 April 2011. Web. 15 July 2014. <http://articles.latimes.com/2011/apr/02/news/sc-dc-0402-fda-nutrition-labels-20110402>. 59 Chapter 9: Greenwashing “Healthy” Fast Food “Greenwashing” can most simply be defined as the pairing between “poor performance and positive communication about said performance.” 187 After several notable lawsuits and controversies regarding environmental claims made by corporate giants like Exxon Mobil, Enso Plastics and Fiji Water, in 2009, the Public Relations Society of America (PRSA) developed Ethical Standards regarding “greenwashing” public relations advising against “inaccurate, exaggerated or completely unfounded claims regarding environmental responsibility, compliance, sustainability or even of public or customer acceptance.” 188 All claims and/or endorsements must be “grounded in facts, information and data, as well as valid, reproducible and appropriate.” 189 TerraChoice and the Underwriters Laboratories produces an annual study titled The Seven Sins of Greenwashing, to expose corporations guilty of misleading and deceptive environmental claims. The annual study is designed like an index and categorizes each offense into the following: Sin of the Hidden Trade Off, Sin of No Proof, Sin of Vagueness, Sin of Worshipping False Labels, Sin of Irrelevance, Sin of Lesser of Two Evils and Sins of Fibbing. 190 The Seven Deadly Sins of Greenwashing promotes awareness and allows consumers to evaluate and rate companies based on ethical behavior. Many fast food companies are guilty of these seven deadly sins in regards to both greenwashing its environmental practices and greenwashing its “healthy” items. And while none of the major fast food chains are included on 187 Delmas, Magali A. and Vanessa Cuerel Burbano. “The Drivers of Greenwashing.” HBR.org. Harvard Business Review, 11 Nov. 2011. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <https://hbr.org/product/the- drivers-of-greenwashing/an/CMR494-PDF-ENG>. 188 “Professional Standards Advisory PS-12: Questionable Environmental Claims and Endorsements (Greenwashing).” Public Relations Society of America. Ethical Standards. October 2009. Web. 15 Sept. 2014. <http://www.prsa.org/aboutprsa/ethics/ethicalstandardsadvisories/documents/psa-12.pdf>. 189 ibid. 190 <http://sinsofgreenwashing.org/findings/the-seven-sins/>. 60 TerraChoice and Underwriters Laboratories’ report, despite being guilty, fast food executives have shown that change happens when awareness is raised and action is demanded by the public. In the 1990s, McDonald’s was criticized by environmentalists for being the largest purchaser of polystyrene. In response, McDonald’s “formed an unusual alliance with the Environmental Defense Fund in August 1990 and later announced that the chain’s hamburgers would no longer be served in polystyrene boxes.” 191 While the PRSA’s Ethical Standards on “greenwashing” PR and TerraChoice and Underwriters Laboratories’ report is focused on environmental claims, these tenets should also apply to the communication supporting fast food chains’ “better-for-you” menus. Just as environmental performance is used as a differentiation strategy in particular industries, developing fresh, healthy food products has proven to be a key strategy in the fast food sector. The consequence of greenwashing manifests in the detrimental impact existing company policies and procedures inflict on the environment, likewise, “greenwashing” fast food PR ultimately deceives and pollutes the human body. To encourage awareness of fast food chains’ questionable health claims, the author offers a Seven Deadly Sins guide that could be tailored and applied to fast food PR regarding alternative, better-for-you menus. The Seven Deadly Sins of “Greenwashing” Fast Food PR The following is a proposed guide to the seven deadly sins committed in fast food PR. By monitoring fast food chains in regards to the most frequently committed sins outlined below, consumers can make informed decisions when they order an item at the drive-thru or at the counter. 191 Schlosser, 2001. 61 1. Lust Sin Description: Should a company place stamps, stickers or wrappers on products that are unchanged, it is guilty of lust. Brands know that packaging matters and these guilty fast food chains update aesthetics for the sake of health-conscious promotions. A study done by a major French food manufacturer found that even if the product has the same ingredients, the packaging makes a difference at the point of purchase. 192 The experiment involved two different mayonnaise bottles, one of which was curvy like a genie bottle and the other that was slender in the middle and thicker on the top and bottom. 193 The female participants chose the slender bottle without trying the mayo, leading the researchers to believe that the women had “associated the shape of the bottle with an image of their own bodies.” 194 Fast food executives know this and have adjusted menu and product appearances to entice customers. Guilty: McDonald’s, Taco Bell In addition to launching the Favorites Under 400 submenu, McDonald’s has also updated its packaging, most notably for the McWrap. And while the McWraps, even in its smaller portioned “snack size” contain 650 milligrams of sodium and eight grams of fat for a meager 250 calories, is packaged in a green cylinder box with photos of loose lettuce decorating the sides. Displaying this tossed lettuce implies a healthier meal than the contained high-sodium, tortilla- wrapped entree. McDonald’s strategy to visually entice customers is nothing new. In its earlier days, McDonald’s “evoked a series of pleasing images in a youngster’s mind: bright colors, a playground, a toy, a clown, a drink with a straw, little pieces of food wrapped up like a present.” 195 A valiant effort, indeed. “A child who loves [McDonald’s] gives us two more 192 Lindstrom, 2008. 193 ibid. 194 ibid. 195 Schlosser, 2001. 62 customers,” Kroc noted. 196 For its Fresco menu, Taco Bell’s purple and fuchsia brand colors are substituted for a fresh-lettuce green menu label and product packaging. For a brand that clearly caters to a late night munchie crowd, with its Doritos Locos Tacos or the Beefy Fritos Burrito, the decision to include a unique submenu color scheme for unchanged products is unethical. 2. Gluttony Sin Description: If a fast food chain offers health-conscious better-for-you options, but promotes indulgent add-on’s through the ordering process, the brand is guilty of gluttony. Guilty: Subway To designate its Fresh Fit products, Subway has added a heart-shaped icon to each sub on its menu. While this visual aid in of itself isn’t unethical, Subway’s incessant prompting for high-calorie and high-fat add on’s through the customization process proves it’s guilty of the sin of gluttony. Even if a customer starts with a better-for-you option, through the process of adding on cheese, mayonnaise, oil, dressing or salt, they have arrived at the cash register with a high- caloric, unhealthy entree. And while Subway’s website warns that the “addition of ingredients or condiments containing sodium or fat may result in [a] meal no longer meeting AHA meal criteria,” its operations have committed a sin more serious than a small disclaimer can absolve. 197 3. Greed Sin Description: When a fast food chain charges a premium price for a smaller portioned or substituted item, it is guilty of greed. Guilty: Burger King, McDonald’s, Wendy’s Much like potatoes, lettuce costs fast food chains next to nothing, but for the first time in history, companies can charge a premium for lettuce and a few select veggies tossed in a bowl. 196 Schlosser, 2001. 197 <http://www.subway.com/subwayroot/Menu_And_Nutrition/HeartHealthyMeals/Default.aspx>. 63 Granted that a favorable profit margin doesn’t inherently constitute itself as sinful, fast food chains that exploit the health-consciousness of unsuspecting customers with premium prices are culpable for the sin of greed. Burger King’s Satisfries, for one, are priced at 15 percent more than Burger King classic fries, despite being 40 percent less fat than McDonald’s fries by its curvy design. McDonald’s and Wendy’s also charge a premium for its better-for-you options, despite having served the products in smaller portions. 4. Sloth Sin Description: If a fast food chain resorts to frozen foods or poorly prepared ingredients to assemble better-for-you options, the company is guilty of sloth. Guilty: Taco Bell CNN’s article “Taco Bell: Making a run for weight loss?” confirmed that the Fresco menu items are not prepared or cooked differently than regular items, but nevertheless are marketed above typical menu items. 5. Envy Sin Description: The late-comers to the health-conscious trend in fast food are inherently guilty of envy. Instead of proactively responding to customers’ evolving needs and palates, these brands have reactively created an alternative menu to keep up with competitors and capture part of the health-conscious consumer market. Guilty: Carl’s Jr., Starbucks Carl’s Jr. and Starbucks created submenus for alternative products significantly later than major fast food chain competitors McDonald’s and Taco Bell. While neither Carl’s Jr. nor Starbucks can be penalized for following trends instead of setting them, the fact that each chain 64 participated in the healthy submenu craze late and with no new, unique products proves that both are merely envious of the press and/or sales of other fast food chains. 6. Pride Sin Description: Some fast food chains are noticeably absent from offering healthy alternatives. These fast food chains are guilty of pride. Guilty: Burger King, Popeyes, KFC, Pizza Hut, Domino’s, Dairy Queen, Papa John’s In reviewing the top 10 global fast food chains, only half have attempted at offering better-for-you options. Many of these chains pride themselves on bizarre, indulgent items, particularly Pizza Hut’s bacon cheese stuffed crust and Papa John’s Frito pie, and have refused to develop fresh, alternative options. This refusal ultimately leaves customers with less options. 7. Wrath Sin Description: If a fast food giant, particularly one that has been subject to anger and outrage in the media for high-calorie or high-fat items and their contribution to the obesity epidemic, hastily releases an alternative menu, it is guilty of wrath. Guilty: McDonald’s Between exposés like Fast Food Nation, “SuperSize Me” and newsworthy lawsuits blaming Big Mac’s for obesity, McDonald’s has established itself as the poster brand for fast food-induced obesity. 198 To combat this public backlash, in 2013, carryout bags and fountain drink cups were redesigned with new packaging to include QR codes, linking consumers to 198 “McDonald’s Blamed for Making Teens Fat.” ABCNews.com. ABC News, 26 Nov. 2002. Web. 14 Sept. 2014. <http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/print?id=129992>. 65 nutritional information for McDonald’s food. 199 Its Favorites Under 400 menu was also released amid scrutiny, due to the brand’s assumed contributions to the obesity crisis. 199 Brandau, Mark. “McDonald's debuts new packaging featuring QR codes.” NRN.com. Nation’s Restaurant News, 18 Jan. 2013. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://nrn.com/latest- headlines/mcdonald-s-debuts-new-packaging-featuring-qr-codes>. 66 Chapter 10: The Ethics of Fast Food PR If the average consumer had the resources, whether time or access, to research the food they’re ingesting, one might argue that fast food consumption would level off. But hypothetical situations aside, research has shown that emotion often wins over logic in purchasing decisions. German consulting company Gruppe Nymphenburg confirmed “50 percent of all purchasing decisions are made spontaneously, by proxy unconsciously, at the point of sale.” 200 This impulsivity and lack of information that perpetuates the illusion of nutrition in better-for-you fast food and fuels the viability of greenwashing fast food PR. These unsuspecting fast food consumers are staggering in numbers. Gallup research has found that eight out of 10 Americans eat fast food once a month. 201 And at least one quarter of American adults eat fast food every day. 202 And while some consumers have a conscious choice to choose what they feed themselves and their families, many don’t. There are many neighborhoods, both rural and urban, that lack access to grocery stores, therefore forcing individuals and families to rely on liquor stores, mini marts and ultimately, fast food chains for sustenance. These food-restricted communities are more commonly referred to as food deserts. Much like the tobacco industry, upper-middle class and well-educated people have decided to quit fast food, prompting big companies to “aggressively target African Americans, Latinos, and the poor.” 203 This socio-economic divide has created two polar-opposite “food 200 Lindstrom, 2008. 201 Dugan, Andrew. “Fast Food Still Major Part of U.S. Diet.” Gallup.com. Gallup, 6 Aug. 2013. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.gallup.com/poll/163868/fast-food-major-part-diet.aspx>. 202 Schlosser, Eric."Americans Are Obsessed with Fast Food: The Dark Side of the All-American Meal." CBSNews.com. CBS News, 31 Jan. 2002. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.cbsnews.com/news/americans-are-obsessed-with-fast-food-the-dark-side-of-the-all- american-meal/>. 203 Schlosser, 2001. 67 cultures” in the United States.” 204 Since adopting this new strategy in the 1970s, the number of fast food chains has more than doubled. 205 Figure 3: USDA's Food Access Research Atlas, mapping food deserts across the U.S. 206 Corporate Social Responsibility in Food Deserts A food desert is described as a residential area where supermarkets are more than a mile away. More than 23 million low-income Americans, of which 6.5 million are children, live in food deserts. 207 In most food deserts, there are an abundance of fast food options, selling “cheap ‘meat’ and dairy-based foods that are high in fat, sugar and salt.” 208 Typically the only alternative to fast food in these areas are processed foods stocked up at local convenience stores 204 ibid. 205 “Physical Activity.” President’s Council on Fitness, Sports & Nutrition. Web. <http://www.fitness.gov/resource-center/facts-and-statistics/>. 206 “Food Access Research Atlas.” USDA. Web. <http://www.ers.usda.gov/data-products/food- access-research-atlas/go-to-the-atlas.aspx>. 207 “Physical Activity.” President’s Council on Fitness, Sports & Nutrition. Web. <http://www.fitness.gov/resource-center/facts-and-statistics/>. 208 “Food Deserts.” Food is Empowerment Project. Web. <http://www.foodispower.org/food- deserts>. 68 and corner delis. 209 Food justice activist and urban gardener Ron Finley argues that food deserts breed “food prisons” where “drive-thru’s are more deadly than drive-by’s,” with a prevalence of “hypertension, diabetes, obesity, and heart disease” caused by poor eating habits. 210 Recently, some major cities have begun to take small steps against the food injustice in low-income areas. In 2008, the Los Angeles City Council enacted a moratorium on new fast food chain locations in South LA’s worst food deserts and instead offered financial incentives to grocers and sit-down restaurants to establish new locations. 211 While one could argue that some sit-down restaurants may not offer significantly more nutritious food than a fast food chain, this small effort gives food desert residents a few more options. Further east, in Chicago, local food justice advocates have lobbied for co-ops with supermarkets to carry a variety of fresh foods and produce. 212 In New York, where high rents have pushed out most local markets and grocers, city government has launched NYC Green Carts, a fleet of mobile food carts that carry fresh produce specifically to food deserts in the Big Apple. 213 Some Green Cart vendors even accept electronic benefit transfer (EBT). While all these efforts to promote alternative food options in New York, Chicago and Los Angeles are laudable, these programs are recent and isolated, paling in comparison to the breadth of food deserts across the U.S. Food injustice remains as the millions living in major food deserts 209 ibid. 210 Finley, Ron. “Food Injustice: The Revolution Starts In The Garden.” HuffingtonPost.com. Huffington Post, 3 March 2013. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ron- finley/prison-break_b_4862026.html>. 211 Severson, Kim. “Los Angeles Stages a Fast Food Intervention.” NYTimes.com. The New York Times, 12 Aug. 2008. Web. 21 June 2014. <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/13/dining/13calo.html?scp=16&sq=food%20deserts&st=cse >. 212 ibid. 213 McMahon, Jeff. “New York rolls veggie carts into food deserts; can other cities follow?” NYTimes.com. The New York Times, March 11, 2010. Web. 14 Oct. 2014. <http://trueslant.com/jeffmcmahon/2010/03/11/new-york-green-cart-chicago-farm-fork- financing/>. 69 risk long-term health complications for simply eating what’s available to them. These individuals are at the mercy of the corporations that line busy intersections to feed them. Figure 4: Photographer Rebecca Ruetten's "Contemporary Pieces," mimics Renaissance art by staging models with contemporary fast food, reflecting the socio-economic divide in fast food consumption. 214 214 LeTrent, Sarah. “Fast Food with aside of Renaissance flair.” CNN.com. CNN, 11 Dec. 2011. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.cnn.com/2014/12/11/living/cnnphotos-fast-food-contemporary- pieces/>. 70 Figure 5: Photographer Rebecca Ruetten's "Contemporary Pieces." "To eat healthy is expensive," Ruetten says. "However, one can buy large amounts of food at a fast-food restaurant for a comparatively low price." 215 215 quoted in LeTrent, Sarah. “Fast Food with aside of Renaissance flair.” CNN.com. CNN, 11 Dec. 2011. Web. 14 July 2014. <http://www.cnn.com/2014/12/11/living/cnnphotos-fast-food- contemporary-pieces/>. 71 Chapter 11: We Are What We Eat It’s easy to see that fast food chains benefit from the “degradation of diets” but what is most important to note is that these quick-service restaurants didn’t inspire this degradation and are nothing more than a reflection of the current American palate. 216 Consumers’ consciences may have changed towards a more health-conscious state, but their palates, stomachs, and by proxy, wallets haven’t followed suit. American culture still equates bigger to be better, leading consumers to believe that larger portions and larger caloric value is value. Since inception, fast food chains have been bringing desired products to market. And still, for all of fast food chains’ shortcomings regarding sub-par alternative products and premium prices, these brands have, and always will, only sell what consumers will buy. Unfortunately, Americans aren’t ready for real change in the fast food sector. By the time fast food consumers come to the drive thru, they aren’t in the mood for a fresh spinach salad with light dressing. They might try a bacon and cheese salad, with extra ranch, once and then return to their usual favorite fast food feed, though. When a consumer chooses a better-for-you option at a fast food chain, they want to buy a feeling rather than a product, and aren’t looking for a healthy item, but rather the personal liberty to treat one’s self with additional premiums and high calorie add on’s. While some brands are better than others, depending on the “greenwashing” guide proposed above, the majority of fast food chains cannot be held responsible for the current state of the American palate. At most, fast food chains should educate American consumers on healthy eating habits. 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People don’t know the other side of Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s. When you say people don’t know, do you mean current customers don’t know, or was this aimed at acquiring new customers? Our customer continues to be the young hungry millennial, but this consumer is evolving. Everyone is. People are thinking of what they’re eating, looking for less additives, less salt, less fat, etc. And the menu doesn’t feature any new products; it’s still the same quality products we have always served. Some of our Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s burgers are over 1,000 calories. And you have to think, ‘Who is the young hungry millennial bringing with them to Carl’s Jr. Hardee’s?’” Would you consider “The Other Side” a success? Yes. But interestingly, whenever we launch a salad or a turkey burger, we’ve found that people try it, but ultimately end up going back to their charbroiled burger and fries. Because that’s what they come here for. That’s what people want. Months following the launch of the “Other Side,” we debuted the Mile High Bacon Thickburger, with record sales.

Abstract (if available)

Abstract Merriam Webster Dictionary defines “greenwashing” as “expressions of environmentalist concerns ... as a cover for products, policies, or activities.” While the traditional definition of “greenwashing” is typically held exclusive to environmental PR, it can be most simply be defined as the combination of “poor performance and positive communication about said performance.” ❧ Through an analysis of fast food communications, the author reveals greenwashing PR in the fast food industry’s self‐proclaimed “healthy” and “better‐for‐you” menu options. The national conversation on obesity, the profitability of diet foods and fast food chains’ commitment to increasing sales has spawned a myriad of new “better‐for‐you” niche menus. Just as many businesses emphasize “greenness” of unchanged products and practices to “reap the benefits of the expanding green market” so has the fast food industry made dubious claims about existing menu items as “better‐for‐you” alternative options to capitalize on the dieting industry and consumers’ health consciousness. ❧ There’s plenty of green to be had in greenwashing as the market for environmentally‐sustainable products and services is estimated to top $845 billion by 2015. Executives are also putting big money behind these efforts as green advertising has tripled since 2006. To encourage awareness of fast food chains’ questionable health claims, the author offers a Seven Deadly Sins guide that could be tailored and applied to fast food PR regarding alternative, better‐for‐you menus.

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Creator Ryan, Nicole (author)

Core Title Reinventing the wrapper, not the Whopper: the ""greenwashing"" PR behind fast food chains' niche healthy menus

School Annenberg School for Communication

Degree Master of Arts

Degree Program Strategic Public Relations

Publication Date 02/23/2015

Defense Date 02/23/2015

Publisher University of Southern California (original), University of Southern California. Libraries (digital)

Tag Burger King,Carl's Jr.,Dunkin' Donuts,fast food,greenwashing,Hardee's,healthy,healthy menus,In‐N‐Out,McDonald's,menus,OAI-PMH Harvest,Public Relations,quick service restaurants,Starbucks,Subway,Taco Bell,Wendy's

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Language English

Contributor Electronically uploaded by the author (provenance)

Advisor Floto, Jennifer D. (committee chair), Lynch, Brenda (committee member), Tenderich, Burghardt (committee member)

Creator Email nicole.alicia.ryan@gmail.com,nryan@usc.edu

Permanent Link (DOI) https://doi.org/10.25549/usctheses-c3-535592

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