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The food trends that will never go out of style: a modern take on how food and hospitality are shaping society
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The food trends that will never go out of style: a modern take on how food and hospitality are shaping society
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1 The Food Trends That Will Never Go Out of Style: A Modern Take on How Food and Hospitality are Shaping Society By Tate Tuckman A Thesis Presented to the FACULTY OF THE USC GRADUATE SCHOOL In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree MASTER OF ARTS (STRATEGIC PUBLIC RELATIONS) May 2014 Copyright 2014 Tate Tuckman 2 Dedication This thesis would not have been possible without the continuous support of my father. By constantly pushing me to be the best I can be, you have taught me how I can achieve all that I strive for. You have always believed in me, and have been my number one champion. My accomplishments are yours. I hope I continue to make you proud and I cannot thank you enough for all you have provided for me in making me the young woman I am today. Acknowledgements Writing this thesis had its challenges. The task of writing a research paper and the time spent required both diligence and determination. I would like to thank my thesis chair, Jennifer Floto, for always encouraging me and providing me with excellent feedback and recommendations. I would also like to thank Brenda Lynch and Erna Smith, my second and third readers for their support and suggestions. This topic was a fun, fascinating and intriguing one that opened the doors to many discoveries of our society and the culture of food. Thank you to all of those who participated in my thesis journey and to all my friends and family for your endless support. 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS Dedication 2 Acknowledgements 2 List of Figures 3 Abstract 4 Chapter 1: Introduction 5 Chapter 2: Food & Culture 5 Chapter 3: We Are What We Eat 13 Chapter 4: Dining out in the 21 st Century 19 Chapter 5: Hospitality 30 Chapter 6: The Foodie 34 Chapter 7: Vegetables in the New Age 37 Chapter 8: Trends 41 Chapter 9: How Tech Fuels the Food Revolution 48 Chapter 10: Getting a Taste for Food PR 59 Chapter 11: Conclusion 63 Appendices Appendix 1: Interview with David Lefevre, Manhattan Beach Post 64 Appendix 2: Interview with Jenna Duran, Employee at Wagstaff Worldwide 65 Appendix 3: Interview with Lance Feldhun of Enduro NYC 67 Bibliography 69 List of Figures 3.1- Why Organic Food Costs More 14 6.1- Millennials: Eating out of Both Sides of Their Mouth 36 7.1-Vegetarians Taking the Next Step 40 7.2- Percentage of Americans Who Eat Meat 41 9.1- What Social Media Roles Do You Currently Participate In? 49 9.2- Twitter vs Facebook 54 4 Abstract This paper cross-examines food culture and the socialization of food through public relations. From the point of view of anthropologists, sociologists, psychologists, corporate professionals, chefs, foodies and others, food and eating are analyzed as a dynamic and multifaceted social movement. This position is supported with facts from the USDA, American Dietetic Association, the Bureau of Labor Consumer Behavior surveys, gourmet magazines, academic journals, restaurant websites and other sources. The human body requires daily food for basic functions, and this fundamental need for food has given way to social movements, ways of living, and value structures throughout years of consumption. The key issues discussed in this paper include the history of the American food industry and eating habits, the movements and trends that have developed in recent years, and the bolstering effect of social media. Keywords: Organic, GMOs, FDA, Millennials, Foodie, app, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, Bloggers, Veganism, Vegetarian, Mixology 5 I. Introduction The role of food is evolving and expanding in contemporary culture. This paper will discuss the culture of food, the effects of the quality of food (including organic, GMOs, processed foods, and farmers’ markets), the small plates dining trend, the hospitality industry, the foodie and the millennial palette, the practices and ways of life of vegetarianism and veganism, recent global food trends (including kimchi and octopus), the mixology movement, technology in the food revolution (including social media, blogs, and apps), and food PR. Food has always affected our daily lives—but today food guides social behavior in terms of personal image, health and wellbeing, value structures, and psychosocial interaction. Food and eating are more than a source of energy and are expanding vastly beyond their primal functions; simple sustenance has evolved into a focus of moral choice, has created social spheres, has fostered relationships, and has spurned many multi-million dollar industries. II. Food and Culture “Tell me what you eat, and I’ll tell you who you are.” - Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, renowned gastronome, 1825. Eating food is an important aspect of our social lives; this thesis argues that food actually has a social character. According to C.M Counihan, author of The Anthropology of Food and Body, relationships evolve through food. 1 Recent trends in shopping, dining and drinking indicate changing forms of social life and, in some cases, point to the increased importance of social interaction. Anthropologist Mary 1 Counihan,, C. "The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning and Power. - CAB Direct." The 6 Douglas, believes one must understand food to understand how society operates. 2 The multitude of ways in which food and drinks are consumed, and the reasons why we appreciate them, are making food an industry where PR professionals can thrive. In Consuming Passions: The Anthropology of Eating (1980), Peter Farb and George Armelagos discuss the effect food has on cultural and social identities. Farb and Armelagos say, “Cultural traits, social institutions, national histories, and individual attributes cannot be entirely understood without an understanding of how these have meshed with our varied and peculiar modes of eating.” 3 The sociability of food practices, constantly in flux, creates both permanent and short-lived trends. Today, 11% of the population spends at least 4.5 hours of their average day eating and drinking. 4 This statistic indicates that a significant portion of every day is reserved for the consumption of food and beverages; eating is a daily ritual that undoubtedly has an influence on cultural and social practices. From ingredients to preparation, food shapes society in various ways. Food creates a social environment that places it at the forefront of many conversations. People share heated discussions about food, such as what and where to eat, the things that should and shouldn’t be in our food, and how it affects our bodies. Whether on a large scale—such as the effect of fast and processed food on America’s obesity rate—or on a small scale – like what to eat for dinner or which restaurants reign supreme – every day, everybody talks about food. 2 Inness, Sherrie A. Kitchen Culture in America: Popular Representations of Food, Gender, and Race. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2001. Print. 3 Farb, Peter, and George Armelagos. "Understanding Society and Culture through Eating." (1980). The Writers Express: A Paragraph and Essay Text and Readings (1993): 280-83. Print. 4 Karen S. Hamrick, Margaret Andrews, Joanne Guthrie, David Hopkins, and Ket McClelland. How Much Time Do Americans Spend on Food? EIB-86, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Economic Research Service. November 2011. 7 Eating and drinking strengthen relationships: whether as part of a first date or a meal with a business colleague, food creates an experience, a moment, and a memory. Food can be used as a form of identification – to show one’s cultural roots, imagination, or originality. “If you really want to make a friend, go to someone's house and eat with him...the people who give you their food give you their heart,” says Cesar Chavez. 5 People use food as a way to connect with their heritage, as a creative outlet, as a means of individual expression, as commerce, as a discussion of politics and health, and almost as a religion. 6 Beyond being necessary for survival, food remains a community experience: people use food not only to rejoice, as in celebrating special occasions or festivals, but also to ease pain and show condolences. “Food is never a simple matter of sustenance. How we eat, what we eat, and who prepares and serves our meals are all issues that shape society,” 7 says Sherrie Inness in Kitchen Culture in America: Popular Representations of Food, Gender, and Race. Regardless of our status or income level, the decisions we make about these issues don’t only affect our immediate life; they affect our community and our economy. People from all different walks of life have a part in creating a food movement. Certain cultures and places in the world are known for their food or how their food shapes their society and daily lives. As Iacovetta, Franca, Frances Swyripa, and Marlene Epp say in Sisters or Strangers: Immigrant, Ethnic and Racialized Women in Canadian History, “Food touches 5 "Cesar Chavez Biography." Bio.com. A&E Networks Television, n.d. Web. 2 Mar. 2014. 6 http://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/28/opinion/sunday/how-food-replaced-art-as-high-culture.html 7 Inness, Sherrie A. Kitchen Culture in America: Popular Representations of Food, Gender, and Race. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2001. Print. 8 everything. Food is the foundation of every economy. It is a central pawn in political strategies of states and households. Food marks social differences, boundaries, bonds and contradictions.” 8 Food traditions vary depending on the culture. Each culture has a story behind its meals. For instance, Spain is known for the siesta – the time between two o’clock and five o’clock in the afternoon where businesses shut down for a large lunch and a nap. While the siesta traditionally existed to give field workers a break, another tradition formed: going home to mama’s to eat the large lunch she prepared for the entire family. 9 The culture of food in the United States is not quite as heartwarming as Spain’s. The high-stress pressures of the capitalist American job market have required many to replace eating well with eating conveniently. Presently, a quarter of adult citizens visit at least one fast-food restaurant on any given day. A generation ago, three-quarters of funds used for the purchase of food in the United States were spent to prepare meals at home. 10 Citizens in contemporary society prepare fewer meals today than they once did. George Ritzer, an American social theorist, attacks the fast food industry for celebrating a narrow measure of efficiency as the highest human value. 11 Fast- food restaurants, such as KFC, advertise the cost-effectiveness and convenience of replacing a homemade meal with a family-sized chicken bucket, mashed potato tub, and biscuits. Convenience and cost are major factors in the staggering popularity of fast food restaurants, but they come at the expense of the positive social and cultural values food can have within families and communities. 8 Iacovetta, Franca, Frances Swyripa, and Marlene Epp. Sisters or Strangers: Immigrant, Ethnic and Racialized Women in Canadian History. Toronto: University of Toronto, 2004. Print. 9 "Do Spaniards Still Take Siestas?" About.com Spain Travel. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 10 "Fast Food Nation Facts." Fast Food Nation Facts. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 11 Schlosser, Eric. "Fast Food Nation."Http://www.nytimes.com/books/first/s/schlosser-fast.html. N.p., 2000. Web. 3 Mar. 2014. 9 The McDonald’s Corporation is a powerful international symbol as the world’s most famous brand; this super corporation boasts more than 35,000 locations in over 100 countries across the globe. 12 McDonald’s not only serves more than 70 million people internationally, but also provides more jobs than any other business in the United States. McDonald’s adheres to uniformity; rather than trusting the individual, this corporation asserts that the individual trust the organization. Emphasis on institutional trust blurs the line around ethics and morality in the culture of fast food: the choices that provide McDonald’s a healthy profit do not provide consumers a healthy lifestyle. Despite the social responsibility to educate the public of the health risks associated with eating their favorite foods, many continue to indulge and remain unaware of what exactly they are putting into their bodies. In many states, recent legislation compels restaurants to provide basic nutritional facts of menu items, but most consumers are not informed that they are eating chemically-engineered foods. The listing of caloric and nutritional content is largely unsuccessful at motivating consumers to avoid or to cut back on foods known to be unhealthy. The constant and growing popularity of fast-food is evidence that the target of this health education, the public, continues to eat the same fast-foods. 13 The “fresh” concept, that is increasingly seen in food-trending today, does not exist in the “previously frozen” fast-food world. Presently, online and print articles, documentaries, and public service announcements exposing the unhealthy truth of fast food are more available and widespread than ever before— 12 "McDonald's. The Leading Global Food Service Retailer : AboutMcDonalds.com." McDonald's â The Leading Global Food Service Retailer: AboutMcDonalds.com. N.p., n.d. Web. 16 Apr. 2014. 13 "Toxic Food Environment." Obesity Prevention Source. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 10 but many Americans choose to table the topic, in favor of valuing accessibility over health. Fast food chains continue to open new locations across the globe; consumers will soon, if not already, be able to dine at a McDonald’s in every country and in every city in America. Society is inflicted with unhealthy eating habits and encouraged to ignore harms and effects. 14 Fast food has not only taken over the global convenient-dining scene, but it also dominates the market and has a great impact on contemporary economy. In 1970 Americans spent about $ 6 billion on fast food and in 2000 they spent $110 billion+. Today, Americans spend more on fast food than they spend on higher education, personal computers, computer software, or new cars. Another alarming statistic, possibly even more unbelievable, is that Americans spend more on fast food than movies, books, magazines, newspapers, videos, and recorded music—combined! 15 Despite this excessive sum of money being spent on fast food, it is common knowledge that fast food is consistently cheaper than eating at a sit-down restaurant or a cooked-to-order establishment. The busy lives of those attempting to manage their time to pursue a career, to socialize, and to have a family or romantic relationship, often opt for fast-food to save a few hours a day. Fast food is cheaper than other means of dining out; in addition to the convenience factor, fast food may also be so popular because it is a way of saving money for other expenses. American culture collectively participates in the fast-food craze, consistent with the more-better- faster lifestyle, and supports the billion-dollar industry while sacrificing personal health. 14 ibid 15 Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation: The Dark Side of the All-American Meal. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2001. Web. 11 The detrimental effects of fast food are both nutritional and social. Unhealthy ingredients and large portion sizes are the likely causes of obesity and health issues for many Americans, and are widely believed to be causing a global obesity epidemic. The typical American consumes approximately three hamburgers and four orders of french-fries every week. 16 Also, on-the-go fast food eating habits are replacing the social interaction of eating or preparing a meal with friends, family, or coworkers. Fast food is a significant element of contemporary culture, but it is not without a few dissenters. Consumers who scorn fast food claim to seek healthier alternatives, yet only four percent of the nation eats organically. Although the amount of money spent on organic food has increased more than twenty-fold since the early 1990s, this percentage is still too low to have a visible effect on our culture’s eating habits. 17 The desire for better, more natural , and more sustainable food may have started and expanded slowly but it continues to influence the expansion and the successes of healthier grocery stores, such as Whole Foods, Sprouts, and Trader Joes, that offer organic and local products. Encouraging the accessibility of healthy options, mainstream grocery chains, such as Ralph’s and Von’s, now offer such options at competitive prices. This lifestyle movement creates a healthier food environment. Even healthier fast food chains, like Freshii and Protein Bar, have started to pop up, showing our society’s growing desire to maintain a healthy lifestyle. In response to the growing popularity of healthy eating, McDonald’s and other fast food chains have seen an opportunity to expand their market bases by providing healthier options. 16 ibid 17 Schlosser, Eric. Fast Food Nation: The Dark Side of the All-American Meal. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2001. Web. 12 People see food selection and preparation as a priority as well. Today, restaurants, markets, and other eating establishments focus on advertising farm-fresh and organic food. According to Norrmejerier, a Swedish dairy company, healthier eating is an old tradition. It claims, “By using old techniques and forgotten varieties of vegetables, we are going back to our roots and reviving our culinary heritage.” 18 Vegetables are gaining popularity, sparking a new trend that Bon Apetit calls the “vegetable revolution.” People now substitute vegetables for carbohydrates and fats, and chefs often prepare vegetables as centerpieces rather than as the usual side dishes. 19 Although fast food remains popular, the conversation sparking healthier eating has created a social change. People have started to realize that the culture associated with fast food creates rifts in our society and continue to fuel fast-paced and rushed lifestyles. Convenience is a positive factor, but the lifestyle and detrimental effects associated with this convenience create a societal problem. For instance, we begin to want everything to be as accessible as our meals. Now that fast food chains provide healthier options, people see this as another shortcut to a healthier lifestyle, the desire for which is fueled by Americans’ concern with appearance. Americans value “looking good” and choose foods that “look good.” Some are even willing to spend a lot of money for food that makes them “look good.” 20 Although choosing a healthy fast food alternative is a great start, creating a healthier lifestyle for oneself doesn’t stop there. III. We Are What We Eat 18 "VÀsterbottensost." In Search of New Trends in the World of Gastronomy –. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 Mar. 2014. 19 "New Ways to Cook Vegetables, Courtesy of America's Best Chefs - Bon Appétit." Bon Appétit. Bon Appétit, Jan. 2014. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 20 http://web.missouri.edu/~ikerdj/papers/SFTFoodCulture.htm 13 Organic Food As noted, one trend that is gaining momentum in the U.S. is to seek out—and cook with— organic food. Organic, in its most abstract sense, means “simple, healthful, and close to nature.” 21 The USDA National Organic Program (NOP) defines organic as follows: Organic food is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations. Organic meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products come from animals that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones. Organic food is produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation. Before a product can be labeled "organic," it must meet USDA organic standards. 22 But despite the apparent benefits of organic eating, Dr. Alex B. Berezow and Hank Campbell lament, “In America and Europe, only one percent of consumers can afford to buy organic food. Most of the world does not have that luxury,” 23 Today, organic food production has grown into a $60 billion industry. As is apparent in Figure 3.1, sales of organic foods have steadily increased from 2004 to today; but many consumers note that organic food costs more. The costs of farmer training, processing (without chemical additives), regulating, packaging, premiums, and logistics all add up to a higher purchase price, once retailers display the food on shelves or in bins. 21 The American Heritage College Dictionary (3rd Ed. 1997), p. 962. 22 Foerstel Design. "Organic FAQ." Organic.org. USDA National Organic Program, 2014. Web. 19 Mar. 2014: 2. 23 Alex B. Berezow and Hank Campbell, Science Left Behind. (New York: Public Affairs, 2012): 65. 14 Figure 3.1 24 A survey sponsored by Walnut Farms, a maker of organic soups and salsas, and conducted by Roper Starch Worldwide, found that 79% of the consumers surveyed were concerned about the safety of their food and 71% said the idea of organic food was “appealing.” 25 The fact that more than half of these consumers showed an interest in a more organic lifestyle makes the occurrence of social change more evident. This change has influenced many restaurants to alter their menus and provide nutritional facts, such as ingredients and caloric intake information, to their patrons. Additionally, many restaurants now advertise that they cook with organic, GMO-free, or locally- grown products. 24 Sharma, Kumar. "Pure Grain." Organic Food Fast Catching on with the Indian Consumer. N.p., 17 Feb. 2013. Web. 1 Mar. 2014. 25 "US Organic Food Market Increases." US Organic Food Market Increases. N.p., n.d. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 15 GMOs An examination of food trends would not be complete without a discussion of genetically modified organisms, one of the most fervently argued political, economic, and social food-issue of the 21 st century. GMOs, or “genetically modified organisms,” are plants or animals created through the gene splicing techniques of biotechnology (also called genetic engineering, or GE). This experimental technology merges DNA from different species, creating unstable combinations of plant, animal, bacterial and viral genes that cannot occur in nature or in traditional crossbreeding. 26 The term GMO is most commonly used to refer to crop plants created for human or animal consumption using the latest molecular biology techniques. Before GMOs, the improving of nature was traditionally done with time consuming and complex breeding. 27 Today, plants are more easily modified in the laboratory to enhance desired traits such as increased resistance to herbicides or improved nutritional content. Advocates of these super-plants argue that GMOs have the potential to alleviate hunger in Third World countries. Despite these potential benefits, it is uncertain what affects these super-plants may have on the Earth, environment, and our health in the near or distant future. Celebrated for their potential to provide food to areas of the world that are plagued by hunger, but feared for their potential to harm or to threaten the Earth and our physical well-being, GMOs have created a complex and multi-faceted political and moral dilemma. 26 "What Is GMO?" The NonGMO Project RSS. N.p., n.d. Web. 3 Apr. 2014. 27 Whitman, Deborah. "Genetically Modified Foods: Harmful or Helpful?"Genetically Modified Foods: Harmful or Helpful? N.p., Apr. 2000. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 16 Studies link GMOs to adverse health conditions, and some experts say they cause more negatives than positives. It remains a battle, as to whether to ban them or not, and food enthusiasts, retailers, and restaurants continue to anxiously weigh in on the debate. As a relatively new science, GMOs are a heated topic around the world, especially in the United States. In fact, most countries actually ban GMOs, but the American FDA has approved them; thousands of the food products, consumed every day, contain these genetically-modified ingredients. Several food companies and stores have publicly formed strong opinions on the matter. Last year, Whole Foods became the first national grocery chain to require all of its suppliers to label any products that contain GMOs by 2018. 28 In the past year, both Chipotle and Kashi announced plans to phase out GMOs. 29 According to Lance Feldun, the manager of Enduro Restauraunt in NYC, “GMOs, hormone, and antibiotic free meats and poultry are becoming a selling point on menus.” Many restaurants now specifically state that they do not use GMOs on their menus – a strong selling point for many people. Processed Foods Process foods refer to those that are packaged in boxes, cans or bags. These foods are not found in nature. In addition to going through many complex steps, processed foods often contain additives, artificial flavorings and other chemical ingredients. 30 The human body is meant to sustain itself on the natural food of the planet and many skeptics of processed food blame them as the culprit of widespread health and weight issues. 28 "GMO: Your Right to Know." Whole Foods Market. N.p., n.d. Web. 17 Apr. 2014. 29 Horovitz, Bruce. "Cheerios Drops Genetically Modified Ingredients." USA Today. Gannett, 02 Jan. 2014. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 30 Jacob, Aglee. "Processed Food Definition." Healthy Eating. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 17 According to the American Heart Association, one-third of the planet is obese or overweight. 31 This fact may likely be linked to the staggering ninety percent of the average American’s food budget that is spent on processed foods. 32 In the American capitalist society, industries that bring in large profits are considered successful and popular. The statistic above is evidence that processed food is socially acceptable and that the current food movement may be less concerned with health than most experts may think. Processed foods are not only bad for health but they are also bad for society and the social movements of food today. Unhealthy and impure, processed foods don’t connect with sustainable living. According to Laura Watts, a mother and food activist, “the degree of processing and chemical additives has increased rapidly since the 1950s when we saw fast food restaurants emerge and mass distribution needed to feed the growing post-war population.” 33 A majority of foods are now boxed or canned simply for convenience, but convenience does not outweigh health. 34 There has been a major societal push to stop or deter families from eating processed food. However, because it is affordable and served in bulk, it remains the only option for many families. Lately, the discussion about organic options, processed foods, and GMOs has taken center stage: legislatures have passed bills that ban certain GMOs and many studies show the major health 31 "Overweight in Children." The American Heart Association. The American Heart Association, 17 Mar. 2014. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 32 "Additives." GRACE Communications Foundation. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 33 "Processed Foods History: 1910s to 1950s." Modern Pioneer Mom. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 34 Dewell, Antonella A Very-Low-Fat Vegan Diet Increases Intake of Protective Dietary Factors and Decreases Intake of Pathogenic Dietary Factorsneed.2 Apr.2014. 18 concerns related to processed foods. In fact, now more than ever, the ingredients and production of processed food are changing. Now, many large companies provide alternative options to stay relevant in the marketplace. Also, consumers have been racing back to a trend that existed for centuries: visiting farmers markets. Farmers Markets In an essay for The New York Review of Books, Michael Pollan noted the social and cultural influence of farmers markets: “Farmers markets are thriving, more than five thousand strong, and there is a lot more going on in them than the exchange of money for food. Someone is collecting signatures on a petition. Someone else is playing music. Children are everywhere, sampling fresh produce, talking to farmers. Friends and acquaintances stop to chat. The community that occurs in the farmers market place is providing a sense of unity once again. Unlike a super market, farmers markets provide various options with relationships with similar faces 35 . Pollan discusses the farmers market as a flourishing, vital social atmosphere for communities and neighborhoods: One sociologist calculated that people have ten times as many conversations at the farmers market than they do in the supermarket. Socially as well as sensually, the farmers market offers a remarkably rich and appealing environment. Someone buying food here may be acting not just as a consumer but also as a neighbor, a citizen, a parent, or a cook. 35 Pollan, Michael. "The Food Movement, Rising." Michael Pollan. New York Times, 20 May 2010. Web. 1 Apr. 2014. 19 In many cities and towns, farmers markets have taken on (and not for the first time) the function of a lively new public square. 36 This reference to the farmers market as a “lively new public square” supports the notion that contemporary food culture is a social movement, bringing together communities, families, friends, and strangers. Americans recognize this function and their support for these outdoor neighborhood markets is allowing local farmers and organic vendors to expand to a lasting movement that just may revolutionize the way communities get their weekly groceries. Between 1994 and 2009, the number of farmers markets in the United States tripled. The number of farmers markets across the country registered with the USDA is now 7,864. 37 Experts expect this number to grow exponentially. At such markets, local farmers, growers, and other food producers or vendors come together to sell their products directly to both the public and local restaurants. The concept is to buy and serve food raised locally for better nutrition and a smaller carbon footprint. As both a cause and effect of the organic trend, chefs are becoming less and less preoccupied with obtaining “luxury” ingredients from faraway places, opting instead to draw from what’s within their grasp. 38 These chefs have paired their creativity with their exploitation of this local organic movement to create new food trends, resulting in a reemergence of food socialization. IV. Dining Out in the 21 st Century 36 ibid: 24. 38 "The Menu of the Future." The Economist. The Economist Newspaper, 18 Nov. 2013. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 20 People bond over food, sharing interests in unique palettes, and engaging in a shared experience of community with this fairly contemporary dining trend. In Eating Out: Social Differentiation, Consumption, and Pleasure, Alan Warde and Lydia Martens discuss eating of a new form culinary entertainment, “Eating out seems to be expanding as a form of entertainment and as a means to display taste, status and distinction. A meal is a structured event, a social occasion,” according to Socially; food dominates schedules and plans. With both genders working, dining out has taken on a new meaning, influencing the way restaurants view the quality and creativity of their menu offerings. An increase in women in the workforce contributed to the rise in fast food purchases. Women simply ran out of time to cook at home. When combining work with raising a family, commonly referred to as a second full-time job, women just don’t have enough hours in the day to work and devote time to the increasingly demanding schedules of their children. 39 In many contemporary American families both the husband and wife are in the work force. Between 1996 and 2006, the numbers of dual-income families in America increased by 31%, and among families with children 59% have two working parents. 40 This dynamic makes it more difficult to prepare meals, increasing the family’s reliance on eating outside the house at restaurants or from takeout brought home. After work, school, or other daytime responsibilities, families often see one another only at dinnertime; eating out often becomes a routine social function for families. This phenomenon has spearheaded a cultural transformation wherein 39 Epter, Anthony, “Eating Out in Modern American Society” 2009. 4 Apr. 2014. 40 Bianchi, Jane. "4 Dual-Income Households Tell All: How We Save and Spend." Forbes. Forbes Magazine, 04 Nov. 2013. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 21 dining out takes on a new meaning. Today, the average U.S. adult eats 4.8 meals per week in restaurants. 41 People do not go out to eat solely for special occasions anymore. Various activities, such as sports, school-related events, and social club functions govern meal times and places; a family that juggles a night packed with different activities often seeks the convenient option when it comes to food, and that option usually does not involve cooking. Therefore, going out to eat has become the norm in American culture. 42 Michelle Rosen, a typical mother, views the traditional family dinner as a gathering around the dining room table for a home-cooked meal and claims it has diminished in terms of both frequency and importance. The home is not essential to family dinners, however. “In restaurants, stories have been shared, romances sparked, plans hatched, and ethnic, regional, and political ties established, strengthened, and reaffirmed. Though many towns, particularly today, lack public gathering places, there have always been local eating-houses that have served as thriving social centers,” she says. 43 Even though the families that go out to eat may not bond at their home dining room tables, the memories, stories, and conversations that happen over shared meals still happen at restaurants. The act of gathering together and eating together, no matter the place, provides substantial ground for social interaction. 41 "Americans Eat out about 5 times a Week." UPI. UPI Writer Undisclosed, 19 Sept. 2011. Web. 17 Apr. 2014. 42 LivingSocial "Dining Out" survey of consumer behavior conducted among 4,000 online Americans (by the Mandala Research Foundation) 2010. 4 Apr.2014 43 Barbas, Samantha. ""I'll Take Chop Suey": Restaurants as Agents of Culinary and Cultural Change." The Journal of Popular Culture 36.4 (2003): 669-86. Print. 22 Small Plate Style An examination of current trends would not be complete without acknowledging the latest explosion at all types of eating establishments: small plates. The recent small-plate dining trend is renovating the social experience of dining. Today, “shared” or “small plates” can be found in many of the hottest restaurants. The Nestle Corporation discusses the potential of small-plate dining: Small is the new big when it comes to menus today—small plates, that is. Whether you call them appetizers, tapas, finger foods, bar snacks, or starters, interesting little flavor- laden portions are perfect for an economy in which consumers look for value and for the ability to customize their dining experience. 44 Much of the appeal of restaurants with small plates lies in a group’s ability to try a plethora of items on the menu; rather than making painstaking decisions between meal options, the table can try a little bit of everything and leave satisfied. Small plates not only encourage sharing and socializing, but more importantly for the food industry they encourage diners to try more and new dishes. In some cases, restaurants restructure whole meals to create a modular approach to the dining experience. Chefs are replacing the old appetizer-entrée-dessert progression with a profusion of flavors and experiences from many precisely-crafted individual plates. The most renowned restaurants often offer tasting menus that allow guests to experience four to 20 of the chef’s 44 "Small Plates and Little Meals." Nestlé Professional. Nestle Corporation, 2013. Web. 13 Mar. 2014: 23 featured dishes. This mix-and-match way of dining affords chefs an opportunity to be more creative with their dishes while serving patrons more tastes of the menu’s offerings. 45 Unlike fast food, this eating style emphasizes quality over quantity. Restaurants and chefs take pride in their decisions to source local farmers’ foods and prepare dishes with organic and GMO- free food. Marketing these terms has allowed them not only to stand out but also to cater to more individuals who prefer this dining style. A small plate is “small” but what is important in the gourmet world is big: flavors, colors, ingredients, and overall quality. Furthermore, small plates are unique in that they provide diners with the ability to try a new and high quality dish without the fear of ordering an expensive meal that they do not enjoy. Eric Cronert, Vice President of Marketing and Merchandising for Monarch Food Group notes: “small plates offer chefs and consumers the chance to try something new without going too far out of cost constraints.” 46 Every diner has had the experience of fearlessly ordering a new dish only to be disappointed, hungry, and feeling as though her/his money has wasted. The small plate option allows diners to tailor their dining experience to their tastes and cost needs, while trying a variety of high quality, exciting foods. While the concept of “small plates,” isn't new, the trend has swept the nation in the past few years and continues to grow as restaurants redefine their styles to align with small plate dining. In the United States, these sharable plates not only allow restaurants to build their profit margins 45 ibid 46 "Small Plates Continue to Boost Restaurant Sales, Diner Experience." Small Plates Continue to Boost Restaurant Sales, Diner Experience. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 24 on food sales, they also offer options for creativity for both the chefs and consumers. 47 Small plates, more than traditional dishes, have more exotic and exciting compositions and flavors because there is less of a commitment required to order them and because a diner will order a few, so each small plate does not have to be a balanced meal. Head chef and co-owner of Manhattan Beach Post, David LeFevre, commented on the small plate frenzy and his love for the concept, saying, “Small plate dinning is a fun, casual environment that allows fine dining to become a simpler food.” 48 At his restaurant, LeFevre wanted to incorporate the neighborhood into his dining experience. This decision ironically made his restaurant one of the most difficult at which to get reservations in all of Los Angeles. Opening in 2011, Manhattan Beach Post became one of the first restaurants in the Los Angeles area to make the “small plate” restaurant a staple in the culinary field. Manhattan Beach Post’s success thrives on its seasonal “soulful, artisanal and handcrafted” menu. These terms evoke certain feelings and emotions and allow visitors to indulge in their dining experiences.. Dining out at a fine restaurant is no longer a means to an end to satisfy hunger; fine dining is an experience in ambience, color, flavor, taste, and with small plates, socializing in a way no other shared experience can match. Small plate restaurants offer both unique and international flavors. They try to keep their menus distinct from the mainstream. The chefs infuse their foods with the ingredients and flavors of different cultures, using unique combinations and seasonal choices. Most small plate dining establishments also choose their products from organic or local farmers. The sense of community 47 ibid 48 "Manhattan Beach Post Interview." Personal interview. 18 Oct. 2013. 25 in shared plate restaurants – which comes from both the communal eating style and the knowledge that one is supporting local farmers – creates a special experience and unique social environment that set these restaurants apart from their traditional counterparts. Small plate establishments are known for their communal seating, which allows people to eat in a community-type setting. These restaurants provide long tables for a large party or multiple parties to sit at; many small tables aligned only inches apart from one another, or large round tables – all of which encourage interaction. Sitting in close quarters allows customers to engage in conversation and share the dining experience with each other and with strangers. According to foodie Ben Churnus, a 24-year-old Los Angeles native who loves spending his weekends in search of the hottest new eating establishments, Millennials enjoy the vibe and the intimate, communal seating of these restaurants. However, the small and shared plate styles of eating do not garner the same enthusiasm from everyone. People can dislike the atmosphere, noting a sense of over-crowding and an invasion of personal space. Churnus notes that small plate dining can also be seen as more expensive dining option. Every restaurant has different portion sizes, and many people do not know how much to order or whether they have ordered too much until the food comes out. People may mistrust these establishments, thinking that their concern lies with making more money through over-ordering and overcrowding. How each of these restaurants respond to these concerns can set them apart from their competition. According to Chef LeFevre, “small plates” are hefty. Not including proteins, the portions are the same size as or 90 percent the size of normal dishes. Chefs also arrange these dishes with the 26 expectation that people will try one or more of them. The ability to try and experiment with the multiple foods and flavors on the menu excites food lovers. While some people express concern over the cost of multiple dishes adding up, LeFevre believes “they should have called small plates small prices.” Some dishes at Manhattan Beach Post can cost anywhere from $8 to $37. Granted, the price depends on what one orders: most of the vegetable and starter dishes lie within that lower price range. Each shared plate varies in size as well, and the prices reflect this variation. People who decide to go out to eat want to feel the satisfaction of receiving what they pay for. “A lot of people don’t want to spend $55 to have two dishes and share a dessert. They want to try a bunch of different choices. In the end you have a happy customer who does not pay a ton while having also tried food from different cultures with different flavors,” said LeFevre. At a shared plate restaurant like Manhattan Beach Post, one can eat three dishes –24 ounces of food – for $36. Critics of the small-plate trend see the term “shared” as misguided because, in some cases, not everyone receives all of the flavors the chef envisions in one taste. For instance, a person who splits an item in half may not realize there is an uneven division and contribution of sauces or garnishes. The idea that people can easily split and enjoy a variety food is not always successful. No matter your stance on these establishments, dining at them elicits conversation about food – a main part of the shared plate dining experience. When multiple plates come out for multiple people to try, they can share their opinions and thoughts on the various eclectic dishes. Due to 27 the popularity of these dining establishments, the conversation about the food takes on a social character. When eating food becomes more of a calculated hobby than mere consumption, a person becomes a part of a “foodie” culture. Many restaurants have started selling tickets that people must purchase in order to dine. Tickets must be bought in advance to secure seating and make a reservation. The time, food, service, and table turn into a commodity that you temporarily own; and rather than cancelling, you instead have to sell your ticket if you can no longer make it. This phenomenon treats food and the dining experience as the entertainment itself rather than as a precursor to the entertainment. Additionally, by buying a ticket in advance, all of the focus goes to the meal, allowing you to enjoy the food and the experience without worrying about payment. The world’s most renowned chefs market their creations and recipes as a form of social entertainment. Grant Achatz, head chef and owner of Alinea, recently decided to start selling tickets to his Chicago restaurants. When asked why he abandoned reservations for tickets he said, “By eliminating no-shows, requiring pre-payment, and varying the price by time and day we are able to create a predictable and steady flow of patrons allowing us to offer a great deal more than would otherwise be possible at these prices.” 49 Knowing ahead of time allows for better preparation in both the back and front of the house. Many people do not feel comfortable paying in advance for a meal they have not already 49 "NEXT Restaurant." NEXT Restaurant. N.p., n.d. Web. 13 Apr. 2014: 28 enjoyed, though. However, Alinea is not suffering from this technique, and it instead creates more hype and interest in the restaurant. Restaurants that offer a ticketing option factor in both tax and gratuity. While one can tailor it to dietary restrictions, one must still stick with the chef’s tasting menu. This fact should not discourage people from trying these places, however. Instead, the customer places his or her trust in the fact that these chefs are the best of the best in the culinary world, making all the right culinary choices. Part of this dining experience has to do with the fact that one does not have to bother making any hard choices; the chef does it for them, another factor in the growing popularity of these establishments. Some restaurants even remove their menus from the Internet or make them more vague in an effort to add an aspect of surprise. This strategy appeals to human psychology and the desire for the new and the curiosity and fascination for the unknown. It would be naïve to consider a restaurant’s only function to be to provide food; in the highly competitive restaurant industry today, to be successful a restaurant must master this element of surprise and achieve a unique experience like any other entertainment industry. An unforgettable dining experience is similar to film, art, theatre, and other forms of entertainment. At Alinea, for instance, many of the menu items list two or three ingredients, even question marks in some places, which add to the element of surprise when each dish comes out. The seatings take three or more hours as each course comes out as its own presentation. There is even one course in which a chef comes out and creates a dessert right in front of your eyes at your table as you watch both his and the food’s movements, each ingredient forming an edible picture in front of you. At the end of the night, 29 one is given an enveloped copy of the menu to save as a souvenir (or, as they say, a certificate of completion), an act that treats the dinner with the same regards one would treat a concert or event. 50 The ticket technique is catching on, becoming more popular at the top restaurants in big cities around the country. Trois Mec, a Los Angeles establishment, charges $75 a person. Tickets often need to be purchased months in advance. This exclusivity creates a social need and desire to eat at these places, which in turn causes the restaurants to increase in popularity and demand. Throughout the nation, the small plate craze remains a hot trend. It is uncertain whether the mere desire to eat at one of the “hottest restaurants” in town drives this trend or if the quality of the food alone keeps the craze alive. Regardless of the reason, this type of eating and the social aspects of this homey vibe continue to increase throughout cities. As with any trend, if you like private dining, you should avoid this dining experience or look for a more exclusive small plate restaurant. Eating out also creates an emotional connection. Some people claim that many small eating establishments harbor a pretentious vibe. While many of these restaurants do very well financially, some start to lose sight of hospitality or value cuisine over service. The most highly- rated restaurants are those that maintain a level of customer service that exceeds the taste and popularity of their food. In other words, they have mastered the original notion of dining out: hospitality. 50 "Alinea Restaurant." Alinea Restaurant. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 30 V. Hospitality The spirit of hospitality, entertaining and housing visitors, is an innate quality of human beings and by nature conveys a sense of comfort, satisfaction, and enjoyment. For restaurants, sustaining a climate of blossoming hospitality is crucial. 51 Agencies that specialize in the hospitality industry, with a particular focus on food service, have made this necessity into a burgeoning business. The highly competitive hospitality food service industry seeks to develop and market locations and products that convey the psychosocial desires of dining to the potential patron. Food has not only revolutionized culture and social practices but, like discussed of the fast-food industry, has made possible the development of new commercial and entrepreneurial innovations and ventures in hospitality. Wagstaff Worldwide is the leading hospitality agency in the United States. With over 70 account executives and a database of over 30,000 contacts, this agency continues to make its mark in food PR. Wagstaff creates customized PR plans based on their clients’ wants and needs. Jenna Duran, an Account Executive in the Wagstaff Los Angeles office, shared her experiences at the leading food PR firm in the nation. She realizes that service is the most important factor in a restaurant’s success and appeal asserting, “The idea of service and the notion that service is the answer to bringing people the most value has been a practice for years.” 52 51 "A Place of Hospitality - What Is Hospitality?" A Place of Hospitality - What Is Hospitality? N.p., n.d. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 52 "Interview with Jenna Duran at Wagstaff." Personal interview. 8 Jan. 2014. 31 Duran’s team maintains a constant conversation with clients by speaking to them on the phone or emailing at least weekly, and meeting face-to-face once a month. She shares the structure of her collaborative business model: “Every office in the country gets together and has a conference call each Monday morning. On the call, we discuss what each office is working on and run through our agendas.” Duran noted the importance of organization and agendas in the competitive and ever-growing food industry. Some her the biggest clients include the Patina Restaurant Group, the Sage Restaurant Group, Chipotle, Fig & Olive, Loteria Grill, and Pitfire Pizza. The major food hubs are cities such as Austin, Chicago, Los Angeles, New Orleans, New York, Seattle, and San Francisco. Chefs travel across the globe to these destinations for rich cultural experiences and tastes to incorporate into their own menus, vying to be the cream of the crop. NYU Steinhardt School of Culture, Education, and Human Development describes the starring role food plays in the New Orleans cultural identity: In few places in the world is food more defining than in New Orleans. Like its music and architecture, New Orleans’ cuisine – a rich pastiche of Creole, Cajun, Afro-Caribbean, French, Spanish, and other influences – is nearly synonymous with the soul and culture of the city. 53 This description considers food with the same significance as music and architecture; food is not only sustenance but also an art form that assumes a unique function in daily life, social interaction, historical tradition, and cultural identity. Food and eating are the only art that is available and necessary to all; food is an art that is essential to our very survival. The vital and 53 "United States: Food, Identity & Culture: Intensive Graduate Seminar in New Orleans - Global Programs - NYU Steinhardt." United States: Food, Identity & Culture: Intensive Graduate Seminar in New Orleans - Global Programs - NYU Steinhardt. N.p., n.d. Web. 2 Feb. 2014: 1. 32 fundamental role food plays, along with its cultural and social significance, has facilitated the development of the food movement that shapes society in so many ways today. New Orleans, the fastest-growing culinary market in America, is seeing national talent like never before and the restaurant scene has kept pace. 54 According to television shows such as Chopped and Food Network Star, top “food” cities are actively vying to become the homes of top chefs. Each city has its own trademark. Lance Feldhun, the manager of Enduro, calls New York City the most competitive food market in the country. For example, trendy Enduro constantly monitors its competition. Enduro’s founders spent $7 million creating their restaurant, a hefty investment they must maintain. Feldhun says: There are five other restaurants similar to ours within four blocks of us. We wanted to build a business [where] the local neighbor could come in and have a burger and coke or a lawyer upstairs could come in with a client and have a lobster and a $600 bottle of Colgin. We want Enduro to be a place people come once or twice a week, not just once a month. 55 Today, surrounding neighborhoods house many restaurants with similar approaches, creating tough competition. Danny Meyers, well-known restaurateur, is a promoter of the vitality and significance of the service culture. Customer service should always come first, but trends can generate pretentious attitudes—he warns. Elite or exclusive restaurants that can cause guests to feel undervalued or 54 Gold, Scott. "Yes, New Orleans Is the Hottest Food City in America." Hottest Food City Right Now in America Is New Orleans. Thrillist, 16 Aug. 2013. Web. 2 Feb. 2014. 55 "Interview with Lance Feldhun from Enduro" Personal interview. 15 Jan. 2014. 33 disrespected are a disgrace to any society or culture. Meyers believes that something that is in the air, not on the plate, sets his restaurant apart from others. Each diner, he says, “needs to believe that they’re the only one in the world that matters.” He believes that providing good service is only half the battle. Restaurants need to focus on the whole picture: hospitality — the quality that makes customers feel good and want to come back —is what really counts. 56 Creativity in the kitchen and the high quality of products being served are creating an elite industry of restaurants that foster unique and exclusive dining experiences. According to Wolfgang Puck, “A good chef has to be a manager, a businessman and a great cook. To marry all three together is sometimes difficult Restaurateurs recognize that, even though a kitchen may produce top-notch, delicious items, these creations will suffer and cease to exist if the front of the house does not sustain a hospitable environment. This drive to construct a well-rounded dining experience creates an enjoyable social community that guests yearn to be a part of and return to. As food becomes more trendy, the domestic female role associated with cooking has begun to fade. In the article Popular Representations of Food, Gender, and Race, Sherrie Inness speaks of the traditional domestic gender roles: Food culture contains messages about how women and men are supposed to act in our society and what roles they should play. Millions of women are convinced their place is 56 Norris, Michele, and Danny Meyer. "Restaurateur Shares the Secret of His Success." NPR. NPR, 17 Oct. 2006. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. d 34 in the kitchen; millions of men are convinced that their place is anywhere but the kitchen. 57 However, we see cooking food as a more and more gender-neutral hobby. The increasing number of cooking shows and competitions on television glorify both sexes in the kitchen. While women have traditionally dominated the kitchen at home and men have traditionally dominated the kitchen at restaurants, these barriers are breaking down. Eating out at restaurants facilitates social interaction and allows people to both enjoy and discuss food. More and more average people, beyond chefs and restaurateurs, are developing a passion for food. Food is another way people relate to one another, judge and compare one another, and identify oneself. Also, food preparation is viewed to be an art these days, chefs are as highly esteemed as artists and filmmakers. Those who take pride in doing one, the other, or both define themselves as part of a new, gender-neutral classification of people: foodies – food groupies. VI. The Foodie Gael Greene of New York Magazine coined the term “foodie” in 1980, although it did not catch on until recently. Now, many consumers frequently identify themselves as foodies—developing blogs, books, websites, and clubs that discuss their passion for food. To be a foodie, one must simply be interested in and passionate about foods and drinks. This modern term replaces the more pretentious word, “gourmet.” 58 57 Inness, Sherrie A. Kitchen Culture in America: Popular Representations of Food, Gender, and Race. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 2001. Print: 58 "The Big Apple: Foodie." The Big Apple: Foodie. Barry Popik, 28 Mar. 2009. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 35 Pleasing the Millennial Palette The latest fads in the dining and culinary world interest many people, but the group that describes themselves as true “foodies” are the Millennials, those born in the 1980s or 90s. 59 Michael Idov, New York Times food writer, describes the contemporary culinary culture of young adults: Food has become a defining obsession among a wide swath of the young and urbane. It is not golf or opera. It’s more like indie rock... It’s a badge of honor... People have always prided themselves on having good taste; now that food has become a form of entertainment, it has subsequently gained integrity. 60 BBDO, one of the world’s largest advertising agencies, reports that 64 percent of Millennials eat out at least once per week and nearly half the respondents identified themselves as “foodies.” 61 Millennials not only focus on the food aspect, but they also value the experience that comes with eating out and exploring different foods and cultures. More than any other generational demographic, the Millennials participate in and contribute to the development of food as a social movement. Many of these Millennials who dine out also eat fast food. In Figure 6.1, it is evident that their appreciation for food does not solely rely on fads, but also on pragmatism. They eat what they like, and along with the majority of Americans, they still eat conveniently. The implication that 59 "Millennial." Merriam-Webster. Merriam-Webster, n.d. Web. 22 Mar. 2014. 60 Idov, Michael. "When Did Young People Start Spending 25% of Their Paychecks on Pickled Lamb’s Tongues?" NYMag.com. NY Magazine, 25 Mar. 2012. Web. 19 Apr. 2014: 61 http://nrn.com/advertising/millennial-‐dining-‐behavior-‐hard-‐defin 36 going out to eat at a restaurant is a special experience has not been abandoned. It remains a special occasion and a cultural culinary experience. Figure 6.1 62 Food constantly shapes and defines culture, yet it remains a basic element with unique and varied forms. 63 Food is intricate and complex. Though their roots may be simple, people can interpret the meanings behind meals in thousands of ways. Before looking at the Hottest Food Trends of 2013 as they relate to the PR profession, the author examines one more key social movement: consuming the lowly vegetable. 62 Brandau, Mark. "Millennial Dining Behavior Hard to Define." Nation's Restaurant News Home Page. N.p., 19 Aug. 2013. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 63 "Fleming Museum - Special Exhibitions." Fleming Museum - Special Exhibitions. N.p., 17 Sept. 2013. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 37 VII. Vegetables in the New Age Once known for their bland taste, rough textures, and for being “poor man’s food,” vegetables, because of their variety and accessibility, are now being served for high prices to consumers all over the map. “Gourmets will learn to value vegetables,” predicts René Redzepi, chef-owner of Noma and founder of MAD Symposium and the MADFeed blog. 64 Noma, located in Copenhagen, is the world’s most famous restaurant, according to Anthony Bourdain. And guess what? Eighty percent of its menu consists of vegetables. 65 Top Chef winner Hosea Rosenberg claims that the more we learn about the state of our oceans and the state of our commercial agribusinesses’ mistreatment of animals, the more people will turn to vegetables as their main course. 66 In addition, we now have more farmers markets, more produce options at stores, and more information than ever before about the health benefits of vegetables. 67 Vegan and Vegetarian Vegetarian and vegan diets are lifestyle and dietary choices that people make for various reasons, including health and wellbeing, morals, care for animals and the environment, and even for personal image or identity. The Vegetarian Society defines a vegetarian as, "Someone who lives on a diet of grains, pulses, nuts, seeds, vegetables and fruits with, or without, the use of dairy 64 "The Menu of the Future." The Economist. The Economist Newspaper, 18 Nov. 2013. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. 65 Bourdain, Anthony. "Happiness." CNN. Cable News Network, 2013. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 66 "Sterling Rice Group." 10 Cutting-Edge Trends of 2013. Sterling Rice Group, n.d. Web. 3 Mar. 2014. 67 ibid 38 products and eggs. A vegetarian does not eat any meat, poultry, game, fish, shellfish* or by- products of slaughter. " 68 Vegans share the same restrictions as vegetarians, for similar reasons, but they are also concerned with the effects of any product derived from an animal, not just animal flesh. On about.com, the online database of expert definitions and explanations, Veganism is defines to be: A type of vegetarian diet that excludes meat, eggs, dairy products and all other animal- derived ingredients. Many vegans also do not eat foods that are processed using animal products, such as refined white sugar and some wines. Most vegans also avoid all products tested on animals, as well as animal-derived non-food products made with leather, fur, and wool. 69 Open forums, public announcements and demonstrations, and educational efforts to share their practices, beliefs, and way of life characterize the social sphere of these diets. Activists and enthusiasts educate and inform people about the harmful and inhumane practices that the production of animal-based food and non-food products can cause. In effort to appeal to compassion and moral values, vegan and vegetarian groups and organizations print pamphlets, create websites, and discuss their views on a personal level with friends, family, and oftentimes strangers that they meet. The basis of the plant-eater’s argument is centered on the idea that the general public is largely ignorant of the cruelty of carnivorous eating; educating their peers and the public exposes the practices that are already taking place, in hopes that this new knowledge 68 "What Is a Vegetarian?" Vegetarian Society -. The Vegetarian Society of the United Kingdom Limited, n.d. Web. 2 Jan. 2014: 1. 69 Hackett, Jolinda. "What Does It Actually Mean to Be Vegan?" About.com Vegetarian Food. About, 7 Nov. 2013. Web. 3 Jan. 2014: 1. 39 will convince more people to change their ways of eating and living. These conversations and social dialogues have swayed many consumers to change their values and beliefs and the number of converts to vegetarianism and veganism has risen. A study published in Food, Nutrition & Science and The Journal of the American Dietetic Association compared the nutrient intakes of vegetarians and non-vegetarians. Researchers found that those in the vegetarian group had higher nutrient intakes, including fiber, thiamin, riboflavin, folate, calcium, magnesium, iron, and vitamins A, C, and E, and that vegetarian diets were generally very healthy. 70 As society increasingly values health as a top priority and as people are more eager to lead healthier lifestyles, the number of people choosing the vegetarian or vegan diet is increasing at a rapid rate. (See Figure 7.1) . The American Dietetic Association reports that vegetarians are less prone to heart disease, cancer, diabetes, and obesity than meat-eaters are. Not only do vegetarians save animals’ lives, they also save at the register—and at the doctor’s office, too. 71 Staples of plant-based diets -- fruits, vegetables, grains, and legumes -- are often less expensive than meat and other animal products; ingredients determine cost and vegetarianism or veganism can be more affordable than carnivorous eating, The practice and commitment of eating vegan or vegetarian is a lifestyle, not simply a fad, and will likely continue and increase in popularity. Figure 7.1 reveals the consistent and increasing 70 "Vegetarian Diet Benefits." Home. N.p., Aug. 2011. Web. 21 Apr. 2014. 71 "Vegetarian Diets Can Be More Nutritious Than Animal Food Diets." -- SANTA MONICA, Calif., July 25, 2011 /PRNewswire/ --. PR News Wire, 25 July 2011. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 40 trend of vegetarians taking the next step and going vegan. As more Americans commit to the stricter diet of veganism, it becomes evident that society increasingly values health and wellbeing. As time passes and cultures evolve, it will be interesting to see what will remain important and what will be seen as wasteful and unnecessary to our society. Vegans and vegetarians are very vocal about their practices and, because of this, their movement is making a mark on social norms. Figure 7.1 72 “We eat too many animal products (something like 600 pounds per person per year) and too much salt,” says Mike Bittman, The New York Times’ lead food columnist. 73 Including dairy and eggs, an astounding 920 pounds of animal products go down the average American’s throat each year. 74 72 Durant, John. "Google Trends: Vegans Are Taking over Vegetarianism."Hunter Gatherer. N.p., 6 Sept. 2010. Web. 3 Apr. 2014. 73 "The Ornish Spectrum” | A Simple and Proven Program for Making Healthy, Sustainable Lifestyle Changes." The Ornish Spectrum Nutrition Comments. Ornish Spectrum, n.d. Web. 13 Apr. 2014. 74 Herzog, Hal. "Why Are There So Few Vegetarians?" Psychology Today: Health, Help, Happiness + Find a Therapist. Hal Herzog, Ph.D. in Animals and Us, 6 Sept. 2011. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 41 Between 1994 and 2009, the percentage of Americans who were meat-eaters varied between 97 and 99. A research team from Yale University put the amount of “strict” vegetarians at less than 0.1% of the population. 75 From Figure 7.2 (below), it is evident that, over the years, the amount of meat-eaters has stayed consistent and steady. Facts about meat are being discussed in regard to health concerns, but the taste and traditions associated with meat in our culture remain popular. Figure 7.2: Percentage of Americans Who Eat Meat 76 Chefs, restaurateurs, and foodies argue that vegetables and a healthier lifestyle are not just a trend, but are a better-tasting option that is also life changing. Even 10 years ago, it was inconceivable that vegetarians and vegans would become such a major social aspect of food culture. VIII. Trends Hottest Foods of 2013 Each year, we see many trends come and go. In 2013, popular trends included bacon, cake pops, and waffles of all kinds. However, some trends, such as kimchi and octopus, are here to stay. As 75 ibid 76 ibid 42 noted, food has its grip on society: an influence on culture, a pastime and entertainment for society, and a way of life or moral choice. Food trends that engage in or expand upon the roles that food can assume are likely to be more than simply a fleeting trend. The contemporary view of and the relationships people have with food today are similar, in many ways, to that of art or music. Art and music evolves with movements and styles over the years and food is no exception. Food trends are a way of identifying and defining food movements that are a significant element of culture today. This past year, popular foods were filled with flavor and inspiration of ethnic descent. As a global society with booming international trade, food is accessible from every corner of the Earth. Samantha Barbas discusses restaurants as agents of social change and cultural expansion: Although restaurants have often had conservative social functions, preserving established food ways and cultural boundaries, they have also been agents of innovation, and have exposed Americans to a variety of tastes, communities, and social groups they may otherwise never have encountered. 77 So, what did 2013 bring us trend-wise? Kimchi One global food trend that has lasted beyond the limits of a fad is the traditional Korean fermented cabbage dish, kimchi. There are more than 200 varieties of kimchi and this dish is incredibly versatile in its simplicity. Quite easy to prepare and made with only a few ingredients, 77 Barbas, Samantha. ""I'll Take Chop Suey": Restaurants as Agents of Culinary and Cultural Change." The Journal of Popular Culture 36.4 (2003): 669-86. Print: 43 kimchi can be served with almost anything. Also, kimchi can be eaten in the earliest stages of fermentation as a light, crunchy snack or left to “fizz” in compartmentalized fridges. 78 While this food has been a staple in Korea for centuries, the U.S. market has only recently developed ways to incorporate it into many of its dishes. Many food trucks, another lasting trend in the food industry, specialize in unique and exotic global dishes that often pair traditional elements of two disparate cultures together in a single item. Food trucks have recently added kimchi to spice up Mexican and American food. It is commonly used as a featured ingredient in quesadillas, burgers cooked bulgogi style, and tacos filled with barbecued meat. The global nature of the current hottest foods is creating a culinary-cultural mixing pot, producing unique flavors that could not be achieved any other way. Promoting a sharing, merging, and mixing of cultures, the food movement is revolutionizing the way people see and define mixed cultural identity. In the article “More than Kimchi: Korean Food's Popularity Soars,” Justin McCurry discusses an emotive element of taste: You have to create excitement and promote a mood rather than just the product itself. Korean food involves new flavors and creates a sense of excitement—there's an emotional appeal. Americans like the bold flavors and the idea that it's healthy. 79 The complex and multi-faceted emotional appeal McCurry describes is evidence that the food industry today attempts to create a psychological association of delight and enthusiasm with food products. The connection humans naturally have to food as their means to survival, enhanced by 78 McCurry, Justin. "More than Kimchi: Korean Food's Popularity Soars."GlobalPost. Global Post, 28 May 2012. Web. 5 Mar. 2014. 79 ibid 44 contemporary emotional appeal, supports the development of a psychosocial food movement. Unique foods like Kimchi that are hot and trendy today and also have a lasting cultural history are especially equipped to surpass trend-status and act as a key player in the development of food as movement. Joe McPherson, the American founder of ZenKimchi, South Korea’s longest-running English- language food blog believes, “Kimchi is absolutely central... It is to Korean food what fries are to steak, or mash to bangers.” 80 Octopus Another global food trend, coming to the US from many different countries and cultures is octopus. Asian cultures, societies around the Mediterranean, and people in Latin America all – eat octopus. This mouth-watering mollusk can be purchased in whole, raw, or live forms; pre- boiled, cut into portions, or shrink-wrapped. The variety of options renders octopus extremely popular among chefs for its creative potential. “Octopus is spreading its tentacles far from its traditional base of Italian, Spanish and Japanese restaurants, “predicts Joe Rieke, Operations Director for Opper Melang Restaurants. 81 Octopus is becoming especially popular in the US; according to reporting firm Urner Barry, imports have increased 10.6 million pounds a year—a nearly 40 percent increase—between 2010 and 2012. 82 80 McCurry, Justin. "More than Kimchi: Korean Food's Popularity Soars."GlobalPost. N.p., 28 May 2012. Web. 21 Apr. 2014. 81 "Top Ten Food Trends of 2013." Forbes. Forbes Magazine, 2013. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 82 Saelinger, Tracy. "In Abundance, Octopus Inspires Chefs to Get Creative - TODAY.com." TODAY. USA TODAY, 4 June 2013. Web. 4 Jan. 2014. 45 Not only is octopus trendy and cultural—it is also healthy. It is full of potassium, phosphorus, and selenium as well as several important vitamins including vitamin C, vitamin A, several B vitamins, and omega-3 fatty acids. It is also lean and an excellent source of protein. 83 As a compelling addition to its global flair, the health benefits of octopus have likely contributed to its enduring popularity. Mixology Along with food, alcohol has also made a comeback in a trendy and sophisticated way. Alcohol is a way to socialize, to relax, and to enjoy or enhance a situation. While many consumers are satisfied with the notion of traditional bartending, Millennials in particular are interested in something new: he style of mixing drinks made with fresh ingredients to create a more modern and healthier beverage is known as mixology. Modern mixology became popular around the same time as the small plate craze. Restaurants wanted to provide their guests with fresh ingredients while also creating drinks that were unique. The most significant difference between mixology and traditional bartending customs is ingredients: mixology is artisanal and uses high quality ingredients while traditional bartenders use syrups and flavoring to create exotic drinks. Instead of using primarily artificial flavorings to make drinks taste like, for example bacon or orange, mixologists use fresh ingredients. A mixologist’s repertoire includes herbs, fruits, vegetables, and any other fresh food. 83 "The Nutrition of Octopus." / Nutrition / Healthy Eating. N.p., n.d. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 46 Although the taste is fresher, these ingredients are costly and make the drinks more expensive. Pre-mixology, an exotic cocktail generally cost around $7. Today, a mixologist’s cocktail can cost upwards of $14. People have mixed feelings about the new drink. Although these drinks often taste better and fresher, the prices and attitudes that come with the mixology movement are unappealing to many customers. According to David LeFevre, the history of the bartender has seen much change over the years. The theory behind the traditional view of the bartender is characterized by friendly interaction, sagacious advice, and reliable service—all with a “cheers” aspect. For many customers, their local bartender can act as a stand-in for a therapist, a best friend, or a secret-keeper on a lonely night. The bartender may also provide the liquid courage necessary to conquer the first date or to approach a new face sitting at the other end of the bar. But to mixologists, the traditional qualities of the bartender are sometimes seen as secondary in importance to the actual preparation and quality of the drink. David LeFevre says, “What is happening now is you are getting a lot of new bartenders, and they don’t embrace the culture as much as their time spent preparing your drink.” Often these hand-crafted drinks can take as long as 15 minutes to prepare, requiring more time investment, causing the interactions between customer and bartender to diminish and sometimes vanish altogether. Advocates of mixology commonly defend themselves to customers by saying, “I’m a mixologist and not a bartender.” For LeFevre, an ideal bartender creates a great product, offers great service, and fosters a welcoming atmosphere. Similar to people who think, “I’m not a cook, I’m a chef,” mixologists can create a new name and begin to lose their history along with the honor 47 of serving drinks. However, LeFevre says this is not the case with the true professionals, only with new people who create drinks “without the soul.” “While it’s easier to find a well-made cocktail, the art of tending a bar is being lost,” he says. In the words of the esteemed bartender Jim Meehan of the New York bar PDT, “A mixologist serves drinks, a bartender serves people–many of my favorite bartenders can’t make a good drink, while some of the best mixologists in America can’t carry on a conversation.” Also a drink author and beverage consultant, Jim Meehan agrees that tending bar and devising sensational cocktails are different disciplines, both of which cater to the wants and needs of guests and require years to fully develop. He thinks the Renaissance of the mixologist is due in large part to the ascension of premium spirits over the past two decades. 84 Meehan speaks of the rising competition in the bar industry and of the cocktail comeback as a social phenomenon: The return of the cocktail has been a social phenomenon, and bartenders on the job since the early ’90s or so have witnessed the rise of craft beers, single malts, small-batch bourbons, super-premium vodkas, 100% agave tequilas, and more... The prevailing circumstances forced bartenders to elevate their game—to learn more about the products they were pouring and to develop cocktails that showcased their enhanced quality. 85 84 Plotkin, Robert. "Bartenders vs. Mixologists: What's the Difference?"Nightclub & Bar. N.p., 25 Oct. 2011. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 85 ibid 48 Mixology and the art of drinks have been perfected at The Aviary in Chicago, owned and operated by Chef Grant Achatz and restaurateur Nick Kokonas. The Aviary is a place where cocktails and service are given the same attention to detail as they would in a four-star restaurant; where bartenders are trained as chefs; where the produce and herbs are carefully sourced and procured fresh daily; where the name and branding of the spirit is less important than its actual flavor; where drinks are made quickly and consistently in a state-of-the-art drink kitchen; and where innovation and tradition are both honored. 86 IX. How Tech Fuels the Food Revolution And how have all of these important food trends been communicated? The traditional word-of- mouth that used to fuel restaurant attendance and popularity has now been upgraded. Legacy “recipe-swapping” has been elevated to new heights, all because of social media. Since the advent of social media sites, the Internet has become a platform for the development of a new type of cultural movement. This social innovation is characterized by instant conversation, widespread connection, and a culture of visual display and showcase. Food and eating, already part of everyone’s daily lives, have seen significant change and potential in the social sphere of influence of Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, Blogging, and Food Apps—to name the key players. From the websites of renowned food bloggers to thousands of Pinterest posts, technology is changing where we dine. 86 ©2010-2014 Next Restaurant LLC 49 According to a Grant Thornton international food and beverage report, “Hunger for Growth,” social media advertising is now considered more important than traditional print advertising in the food and beverage industry. 87 (See Figure 9.1.) Figure 9.1 88 The Grant Thornton report states that nearly half (49%) of all food and beverage industry executives say social media is a leading tool for attracting and retaining customers. 89 Regardless of their use, for a large corporation such as Kraft or a local restaurant, media and various applications are vitally important for success. In today’s society, it is rare for a restaurant to not have a social media page. New media is the wave of the future. These applications encourage food as a community builder, establish likeness and relations between people, and allow start-ups, established companies, corporations, and all business ventures to craft and promote their social image. 87 "Social Media Overtakes Print Advertising in Food Industry."Http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/BU1310/S00893/social-media-overtakes-print-advertising-in-food- industry.htm. Scoop, 24 Oct. 2013. Web. 4 Apr. 2014. 88 "Social Media Section Update." CHA BLOG. Craft and Hobby Association, 24 Sept. 2013. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 89 ibid 50 Facebook One of the first social media websites was Facebook, founded in 2004. This application is still a good way for chefs to expose their work and creations for millions of viewers to see. Food critics have been an influential element of the food industry for years, but now the Internet and the use of social media enables people of all races, backgrounds, and income levels to comment on chef’s restaurants or skills 24/7. Websites like Yelp provide ratings, price class, and customer feedback to millions of subscribers. The contemporary atmosphere of food critique, previously reserved for the trained and experienced, has expanded to include the common citizen. In addition to the sharing and publicizing of opinions, social media also allows people to log and share where and when they attend restaurants with their friends. Facebook has a feature that allows people to “check in” to their locations. This is a great addition to social media pages and also serves as built-in promotional tool. To encourage people to publicize their restaurant or eating establishment many restaurants are now offering discounts or special deals for guests who “check-in” on Facebook. Although social media is seen as creating far more positives than negatives in the food world, negative press or feedback can be articulated on social media channels. And because of the widespread information database, it can be difficult to monitor posts. In fact, major food agencies handle the monumental tasks of regulating posts and watching social media trends. 51 It is important for larger companies or restaurant groups to get advice from PR professionals about the best practices to monitor their social media channels. Popular and successful companies and restaurants have just as many Facebook followers and “likes” as they do sales. One of the most famous chefs and food enthusiasts in the world is Anthony Bourdain, with over a million followers on his Facebook page. With this large following and a hit show on CNN, Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown, he attracts an array of viewers. Bourdain’s Facebook followers share his posts with their followers and the cycle continues, allowing an almost endless ability to reach audiences. Bourdain and his team must be constantly aware of what fans are commenting on or posting. Similar to his Facebook account, his Twitter and Instagram profiles also have over one million fans each. Facebook has become wildly popular as a user-friendly interface that connects friends and acquaintances from the same elementary school to favorite restaurant. Since Facebook’s launch, many social media sites have been created; one that became instantly popular and has spurred an entirely new means of dining is Instagram. Instagram Instagram is “the hot” social media channel for all ages. Especially conducive to the food arena, the foundation of Instagram is one of imagery and captivating pictures. Chefs and restaurants can share and display their artistic abilities and creativity. Instagram is very similar to Facebook, so it is easy to navigate, and connects friends from Facebook to Instagram. The Instagram application 52 is based solely on photographs so while Facebook allows various kinds of networking, Instagram offers networking through images. The captured moments are surrounded by comments and shared with friends, and rather than instant messaging or chatting, Instagram focuses on shared photos. Food popularity and advertising has relied on visual representation since it began and Instagram is an important avenue for food PR practitioners to recognize and utilize. Food is one of the single most- captured subjects of Instagram, termed “food porn,” and many restaurants have taken advantage of this revolution by creating Instagram pages to collect the photographs their patrons take while dining at their location. Instagram is especially popular among younger generations. Technically, in order to have a Facebook account, you need to be 18 or older, but Instagram does not have an age restriction, which allows more people to use the tool. “Instagramming food is a way of bringing the shared experience even to the act of dining alone—and Instagramming food also holds the potential for building stronger, safer, healthier communities,” according to Jayme Heimburch. 90 The simultaneous rise of online social networks and camera phones deserves part of the credit for Instagram’s food culture, but none of it would have happened without the grassroots revolution in fine dining. 91 90 Heimbuch, Jaymi. "What Does Instagramming Our Food Say about Modern Eaters?" TreeHugger. N.p., 6 June 2013. Web. 2 Feb. 2014. 91 Idov, Michael. "When Did Young People Start Spending 25% of Their Paychecks on Pickled Lamb’s Tongues?" NYMag.com. New York Magazine, 25 Mar. 2012. Web. 1 Apr. 2014. 53 Twitter Twitter represents the polar interface to the all-image Instagram; users share tweets, limited character-count text compositions. The short restricted characters as well as the idea of on-the-go quick social media access to an infinite amount of resources—chefs, restaurants, friends—with similar interests have made Twitter into a wildly successful global phenomenon. In a recent essay, Jared Keller writes on food tweets: Food has accompanied virtually every communal ceremony since the dawn of civilization, from the Sabbath to the solstice, the communion to the wake. Before the Industrial Revolution, subsistence drove and defined the evolution of social relations: the most basic distinctions between preindustrial hunter-gatherer, pastoral, agrarian, and feudal societies is how each group collectively provided nourishment for itself. 92 Keller’s statement demonstrates how culture and the food we eat and share have been shaping civilization and society since the beginning of time. Although Twitter came after Facebook, the idea of this social media tool has created a large international focus. In the food realm, Twitter allows people to comment directly and share their thoughts with chefs and food enthusiasts. The concept of using hashtags and the “@” sign became pertinent in other tools such as Instagram and Facebook because of Twitter. Twitter has now become the second most popular social media tool in the world, so PR practitioners in the food and hospitality industry need to understand this rich communications option. 92 ibid 54 The idea of turning to the lifestyle section of the Sunday paper to find out about new eating establishments has changed at the click of a mouse. Twitter offers the profiles of thousands of options for dining as well as a plethora of food and culinary experts. (See Figure 9.2.) Twitter has surpassed Facebook when it comes to food and food news. Figure 9.2 93 Pinterest “Nowhere is the food culture revolution more evident than on social media,” says Jennifer Floto, Annenberg Professor. Pinterest, for example, takes the lead as the most innovative and popular food app. According to a new study, it is now one of the primary ways that people share information online; it even tops email. Pinterest raced past email to become the third most popular way to share things online. Only Facebook and Twitter topped it. 94 93 "Twitter plus Efficace Publicitairement Que Facebook ?" Superception. N.p., 8a Apr. 2012. Web. 21 Apr. 2014. 55 Pinterest features boards categorized by food types, drink types, best ofs, home cooked meals, romantic meals, and more. The list could go on forever. The various options are easily organized, and today people do not even need to buy cookbooks or write recipes down because everything can be done digitally and saved and shared with other pinners. Creating boards and themes for each category helps a pinner decide what to eat or what to make. In fact, many food bloggers can now be found on Pinterest. For those PR practitioners who are still skeptical about the success of Pinterest, note these statistics: After Facebook and Twitter, Pinterest is ranked as the third most popular social networking site. This shouldn’t be too surprising, considering that Pinterest hit 10 million unique U.S. monthly visitors faster than any stand-alone site in history. Pinterest currently gets well above 20 million unique monthly visitors. For those PR practitioners still skeptical about the influence Pinterest can potentially have on the social and economic marketplace, note these statistics: · 79 percent of Pinterest users are women. This statistic confirms Pinterest as a prime avenue for reaching the female market. The imbalance between the sexes is starting to correct itself; this number is down from 92 percent a few years ago. According to a Pew Research study, 67 percent of Americans currently use social media. According to the same study, out of total Internet users, 25% of females and 5% of males use Pinterest. 94 Wohlsen, Marcus. "Pinterest More Popular than Email for Sharing Content Online (Wired UK)." Wired UK. Wired Co., 27 Jan. 2014. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 56 · 81 percent of U.S. women online trust Pinterest as a source for information and advice. This number is especially interesting when you consider the relative trustworthiness of competing networks; Facebook and Twitter lag behind at 67 percent and 73 percent respectively. Blogs match Pinterest, with trustworthiness of 81 percent. · Mothers are 61 percent more likely to visit Pinterest as compared to the average American. To get more insight into this and related matters readers may want to review the Pew Research Center’s “Demographics of Social Media Users.” · 11 percent of Pinterest pins are in the Food & Drink category, the most popular segment. According to Compete’s Online Shopper Intelligence Survey, 57 percent of Pinterest users have interacted with food-related content. This makes it especially critical for companies in the food industry to regularly update their boards with new photos. 95 As a virtually cost-free means of advertising, Pinterest allows all levels of restaurants, from large corporations to food trucks, to publicly display their menu offerings. The Food Movement has certainly been influenced by the recent social media crazes, but it has also been significantly expanded by the sophistication levels of the new and/or improved food blogs. Bloggers Blogging has become more popular today than ever before. In fact, many bloggers have become celebrities. The Pioneer Woman, Ree Drummond, had never on TV, but her written work has deemed her one of the most coveted bloggers to date. She has 500,000 followers on Twitter and over 1.4 million on Facebook and, most recently, a show on the Food Network. Featuring everything from easy throw-together suppers to elegant and extravagant celebrations, the series 95 PR News Webinars: “Pinterest Power,” September 2013, 57 depicts the incredible story of life at home on the range. 96 The unique and unfamiliar has always piqued the public interest, but blogs also appeal to large groups, such as young women. What’s Gaby Cooking is a newer blog targeted toward women in their 20s and 30s. Although she does not have a million Facebook followers, Gaby does maintain a steady following of 13,000 people on Facebook and over 14,000 on Twitter. Her numbers continue to grow and 80% of the demographic she caters to are females between the ages of 18 and 35. Today, young females are drawn to bloggers of similar ages as well as the recipes and lifestyle skills they offer. Gaby’s blog includes a “lifestyle” section with content ranging from holiday gifts to travel locations. She discusses what she eats in the cities she explores and allows for her followers to appreciate the cultures and foods she enjoys. The section provides insight and education to her followers so that if they, too, travel to any of her many destinations, they can rely on her as a source. There are many food bloggers, and one can easily find someone to relate to. The options are limitless. Food Apps Along with social media, the technology revolution now features non-Geek applications: apps created to appeal to the consumer. There are many apps today relating to food that make the dining experience easier. Apps revolutionize convenience with instant information, on consumers’ mobile phones, fostering community and sharing and further emphasizing the social element of the tech-food movement. 96 "The Pioneer Woman, Hosted by Ree Drummond." The Pioneer Woman, Hosted by Ree Drummond. N.p., n.d. Web. 4 Apr. 2014. 58 Food PR practitioners must familiarize themselves with a few apps that are recommended by Food and Wine Magazine in its January 2014 edition: Spreecast: A video chat tool that hosts live talks and Q&As with all kinds of celebrities and experts. Los Angeles Food Critic Jonathan Gold has had a recent chat. Nowait: Now users don’t need to leave home to put their names on the list at no-reservation spots. Feedie: This new app turns food photography into philanthropy. For every food photo shot at a participating restaurant and shared online, Feedie will donate meals to at-risk children in South Africa. These varied apps describe not only ways to not wait for a table, but also ways to become active in philanthropy or to discover how celebrity chefs and experts cook. Regardless of the device, The App Store provides many more options for the consumer to choose from, revolutionizing the way in which people choose, dine, and reflect on their experiences. With new media adding to this social change, the possibilities are endless. Phone connections are fast and easy, and sharing insights, likes, and interests creates more buzz. And creating buzz is the primary role of the food PR practitioner. 59 X. Getting a Taste for Food PR PR professionals market anything from cake pops to intricate molecular beverages. If young PR practitioners want to be involved in the food industry, they must immerse themselves in the food revolution. Understanding new media is critical, but PR foodies also need to familiarize themselves with legacy media. Celebrity chefs have been around for nearly a century, beginning with Escoffier, but television and media culture continues to evolve. Despite the technology craze, magazines are still a popular means for people to discover new businesses or websites to try. Some magazines that remain leaders in the food industry are: Bon Apetit, Food & Wine Magazine, Saveur, Martha Stewart Living, and Real Simple. These legacy publications include recipes, tips, and recommendations for restaurants throughout the nation. They serve as excellent resources and reliable outlets for readers. Due to the tech boom, most publications also have apps and online channels through which subscribers can browse. PR professionals must stay current with these publications, establishing relationships with contributors, writers, and editors. Through association with trusted sources like the culinary magazines mentioned, new restaurants or food companies can gain a swift following. The Food Network has proven to be the leading food programming provider on television. Recently, Gordon Ramsay, an award-winning chef, created a new show called Master Chef Junior, which brings children to the forefront of cooking. Talented young chefs take the stage and compete to make the best dishes. This new introduction of child chefs requires PR food 60 professionals to understand how to represent their child star clients, much like their brethren in the entertainment industry. Based on the extensive research presented in this thesis, the author offers five recommendations for PR professionals in the hospitality/food industry: 1) Keep up with trends. Unlike other industries, this does not mean to simply “read up” on food trends. Eat at a variety of restaurants and carefully study menus. Visit local farmers markets and sample the wares. Study the most popular “pins” on Pinterest’s food section. Order up from a mixologist to fully understand how he/she differs from a traditional bartender. The changing and evolving food trends can be difficult to keep up with, but maintaining a current understanding of who, what, where, why, and how of food trends is essential to remain competitive in the food industry. Searching for the common denominator among popular trends can illuminate the “it factor” that makes one restaurant a wild success while another fails. 2) Be aware and knowledgeable of relevant food movements. To stand out, one must understand the conditions of the current marketplace, realizing what is popular and what is changing in various social spheres. Successful ventures appeal to popular tastes while also offering something new that is not yet offered. Small and shared plates bring people together through food and alcohol. Organic food, along with locally grown produce, has sparked a movement toward healthy eating that will continue to thrive as we are further educated about the nutrients and benefits of sustainable eating. Food and society constantly change, yet movements build upon each other. Understanding why people are 61 changing their habits or lifestyles can create a unique position in the public relations sphere. And food movements aren’t always popular. GMOSs have changed the food production and the jury is still out on whether they are helpful or hurtful. 1. Food choices are often influenced and informed by values. Veganism and Vegetarianism show how people restrict and limit their food choices to better their health and more significantly to support a more just, humane treatment of animals. Understanding the values of social spheres should be an important consideration for PR professionals when making decisions about new media advertising or brand building. The audience to be reached will have specific qualities, characteristics, and priorities that inform PR professionals. "Going vegan," has become an increasingly popular choice over the past several decades for both health and ethical reasons. If done right, a vegan diet can be nutritious, delicious and healthy – it can significantly lower cholesterol, reduce diabetes and obesity risk, and even reduce the risk of death from a heart attack by about 25%. But a wise PR professional will also be aware of the common pitfalls associated with going vegan that can lead to unhealthy food choices and nutrient deficiencies. For every diet and lifestyle change, PR practitioners can guide trends through messaging. For example, “Make sure you go vegan the safe way,” cautions Dr. OZ. 97 2. Social media thrives globally and provides untapped opportunities and potential. Understanding the right market, as well as the proper channels for products and services, will lead to success and clarity in the food industry. Pioneering women have 97 Mehment, Oz, Dr. “Going Vegan Dos and Don’ts.” The Dr. Oz Show, 22 Jan. 2014. Web. 17. Apr.2014 62 exploded on the scene of social media, creating a new industry of internet marketing. A PR professional in the hospitality food industry must understand everything and do it in a “hospitable way.” The hospitality industry is dependent on impeccable service, entertainment, surprise and other issues that were discussed in this paper. Restaurants, chefs, food enthusiasts, and entrepreneurs continue to use social media to enhance their skills and knowledge. Following and reading about leaders in the industry can set practitioners apart. Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Pinterest all provide ample information and make it easier to succeed in this current market. Every food PR practitioner must follow at least one key food blogger if not more; installing and using commenting on. 3. 5) Knowing your context and audience. Apps and social media both achieve similar functions and are becoming the way in which information is received and consumed. Marketers who ignore society’s developing dependence on social media – especially apps -- will surely be left behind. In an article on forbes.com, the public app phenomenon is described as: A seismic shift is taking place in the mobile app world. Out of the top 25 grossing apps in the Apple app store, 14 are ad-supported, free versions. Developers are no longer monetizing apps only by selling them. They are now increasingly focused on monetizing app engagement. This shift maps directly to consumer preference. According to a 2010 study by Harris Interactive, 95% of the U.S. adult population who own smartphones prefers free apps. 98 98 MarketShare. "The Importance Of Mobile App Engagement." Forbes. Forbes Magazine, 24 Oct. 2011. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. 63 Zephrin Lasker, the co-founder and CEO of Pontiflex, the industry's leading email and social acquisition platform. He has been involved with online marketing since its inception more than a decade ago. 99 With Millennials poised to earn more money and lead the latest trends, understanding what they read, watch and listen to is critical for today’s PR practitioners. XI. Conclusion Whether it’s a home-style meal, dinner out at a restaurant, or a quick bite from a fast food joint, food resonates with everyone. Emotions and feelings are packed into each and every dish consumed and the hospitality aspect that accompanies a meal is just as important as the meal itself. Finding the perfect balance of hospitality and good food is difficult, but with PR help surpassing many expectations, the industry continues to thrive. The realm of food is expansive and evolving; it influences the social, psychological, and cultural history that we are cooking up today. What has been a basic necessity of life since the beginning of humanity, food is providing more and more ways for people to connect to one another, be involved with other of like mind and values, and gain enriching cultural experiences. 99 "Zephrin Lasker." Zephrin Lasker, Co-founder and CEO, Pontiflex: Bio. N.p., n.d. Web. 20 Apr. 2014. 64 Appendix 1: Transcript of Interview with David LeFevre, the head chef of Manhattan Beach Post Author: What made you decide to open a restaurant in Manhattan Beach. It seems you were the first to bring good/local food to the area. LeFevre: I worked downtown LA but downtown in 2004 wasn’t the same as it is now. I feel in love with Manhattan Beach and moved here in 2005. I went into business with a friend and he was interested in partnering and creating a concept that I had been passionate about for quite sometime. The building we are in now is the old Manhattan Beach Post Office. I wanted to incorporate the neighborhood and bring some of the history as well. People from here have a lot of pride in Manhattan Beach, and we want our customers to think we are bringing them the beach vibe with a fine dining experience. Author: How do you decide what you want to put on your menu? Are your menus inspired by your own favorite foods? culture? or what you think the consumers will like most? LeFevfre: Our menu is very seasonal. Although we don’t really have seasons here in California, it is important to provide the consumer with options that are very seasons around the nation. We want our items to be soulful, artisanal and hand crafted. Any dish we put on we really evoke the terms. Emotional food is what I am most interested. Food that evokes a memory, or a childhood past time, that is the food I am interested in creating. We think about a lot of different cultures. We don’t just do one type of food. I have traveled all around the world, and want to bring what I have tasted and the diversity into my dishes as well. We make everything in house. Author: Aside from great food, alcohol has become very prominent on menus. How do you decide the ingredients for your drinks? LeFevre: We start off with really high quality spirits. We use hand crafted, soulful artisanal concepts in our alcohol as well as our food. Artisanal product is less than major mass produced alcohols are. Instead of using flavoring to make it taste like bacon or orange etc, we use all fresh ingredients. We make our orange juice or zest instead of a flavoring we can buy from a food distributor. We do the same thing with vanilla or pear pure. Having fresh ingredients that taste well and more like the actually food. Author: What is the inspiration or reason behind small plates? Many restaurants do this now, do you think the strategy behind "small plates" has changed. Is it overdone now at other places? LeFevre: Small plate dinning is a fun, casual environment that allows fine dining to become a simpler food. The plates are smaller but every dish we serve is filled to the brim. We are using the same amount of product (minus the proteins), and what you get in the end is the same if not 90% if you normally order a dish. The idea is not to have small portions, but an opportunity to try 3-4 things instead of 2 or 1. What we should have really called it is small prices. For three dishes you pay $36 and 24oz of food, which is about a 1.5lb of food. That is normally what you 65 pay for one entrée, and with small plates you get such a variety. It is about the same quality and products of food as well as the technique. What we concentrate one doing is making sure that the portion the customer is getting has a value behind it. To be successful, people must find value in it. People do not want to spend a lot of one thing; people want to try a bunch of different things. We offer comfort food, which is a lot food. Author: What do you feel about this mixology craze? Levfevre: I think there is this “I am a mixologist not a bartender” there is an honor in serving drinks like bartenders have been for decades. True professionals who do mixology understand the importance of service but the new ones who are younger and doing it, in my opinion without the soul. You have to think about what bartending is about, its about your guest. What is mixiology about? Its about me and it is a very selfish thing. Do not even have them in front if that’s how they’re going to be, have them in the back where the cooks are. We want to keep our drinks crafted but timing is very important. Appendix 2: Transcript with Jenna Duran, employee at Wagstaff Worldwide Author: What made you want to get into the Food PR Industry? Duran:I love PR and food. After living in LA for a couple of years and discovering the amazing food scene, I knew I wanted to make a career from two of my passions. Author: How do you feel food PR has changed in the last 5 years? Where do you think food PR will be in the future? Duran: In the past 5 years, I feel that food PR has expanded and many restaurants and culinary professionals are beginning to understand the value of it. In the future, I think food PR will be even more prevalent than it is now and even the smallest of restaurants will find ways to incorporate PR into their overall restaurant strategy. Author: Why do you think restaurants need food PR? How does it differ than hospitality? What do you think the definition of hospitality is? Duran: I think restaurants need food PR because it creates a synergistic message with a media consumer. It helps create more awareness about the specific eatery especially in today's world where new restaurants are constantly emerging. Hospitality PR is different in that sometimes the establishment does PR for itself and although PR is of great value, it is not needed as much. For example, I worked prior at The Beverly Hills Hotel, which is an iconic legend in the hospitality industry. Many times, because of the hotel's legacy, writers were constantly sending us leads or including the hotel in featured stories without us knowing. I think the definition of hospitality is a warm, genuine service done exceptionally. Author: What are food PR practitioners looking for when they hire? 66 Duran: I think food PR professionals are looking for candidates that share the same passions such as trying new restaurants, cuisine, and genuinely being interested in the overall food-scene. On the other hand, I think they also are looking for someone personable and engaging because PR is all about fostering relationships. Author: How do you or your company pitch the idea of food PR and make it worth-while to restaurant groups etc? Duran: Fortunately, our company serves over 75 restaurant/food related clients. When pitching our services, we share the history of our company; the type of clients we work with and the successes of working with a PR agency. When other restaurant groups realize the array of great restaurants we work with and the past media successes, they grasp an understanding of the value in hiring a food PR team. On the other hand, one of our company's strengths is being very creative. When presenting our capabilities, we also showcase case studies featuring some of our creative ideas (whether they be story ideas or promotions) that have garnered ample press and recognition. Author: Do you find the field to be competitive? Duran: Yes and no. From my point of view, I feel many PR professionals share interest in consumer-based PR fields such as fashion, entertainment, products, etc. There are some though that have a love for the hospitality industry. Because there are only of couple of firms that specialize in hospitality PR, this makes the field competitive since there are only so many jobs available. Author: What kind of PR do you do for restaurants? Duran: I do all types of PR, everything from local and regional online and print to national online/print and broadcast. In addition, we also work on event/promotion creation we feel will be media worthy but also revenue driven for the restaurant. We also assist in creating strategic partnerships. Author: Do you think the term "foodie" has a negative or positive connotation? Duran: Today, I think "foodie" has a positive connotation. With the culinary scene taking off, I think if you're called a "foodie" it gives the impression that you are an expert in the food world since you have a love for trying new restaurants, cuisine and exploring the industry. I think if you were called a "foodie" 5 years ago, people might assume you were just someone who liked to eat, not really appreciating the food and the experience. Author: Do you think there is a certain city in the United States where the food scene is dominating more than others? Duran: May be a bias answer because I'm a native but I'd say LA. Cities such as New York and Chicago for a while have been a culinary mecca- wasn't until recently that LA really started to 67 explode with amazing restaurants and chefs. Finally the "melting pot" of the US gets to showcase their diversity from a food perspective! Appendix 3: Interview with Lance Feldhun from Enduro NYC Author: What makes the hospitality today different than it was say 10, 20, 30 years ago? Feldhun: 30 years ago there were a lot less big restaurant corporations then there are today. The big corporations like Darden (Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Seasons 52, Long Horn, and Capital Grille) see successful smaller independent groups and acquired them. Capital Grille started out with 1 restaurant in Providence back in the mid 80's. Now they have 51 locations nationwide. Their big expansion came in 2008 when Darden bought them. They went from 28 stores to 51 in under 5 years. With big marketing dollars and tremendous buying power, they make it tough for the individual restaurateur to stay in business. Author: How competitive is the restaurant industry and how do you and your restaurant make sure to stay at the cutting edge? Feldhun: NYC is by far the most competitive market in the country. New restaurants open every day, and twice as many close. Having so many restaurants in the city, you have to be on your game at all times. If a guest has a bad experience at your restaurant, they might not let you know about it, they just don't come back. There's 5 other restaurants similar to ours within 4 blocks of us. In building Enduro, we wanted to build a business that the local neighbor could come in and have a burger and coke, or a lawyer upstairs could come in with a client and have a lobster and a $600 bottle of Colgin. We want Enduro to be a place people come once or twice a week, not just once a month. Author: How much time/effort goes into the food selection/menus and alcohol choices? Feldhun: Before we opened, we spent almost 2 months tasting and perfecting recipes for both food and cocktails. We spent many nights at our competitor’s restaurants and some of the other top restaurants in NYC getting ideas for our menu. We saw a lot of great ideas and a lot of things we didn't like. We went out and got a 3 Michelin Star Chef from Chicago, and had Laurent Gras, a world famous chef, consult on everything from restaurant design to recipes. We sat around sometimes till late at night arguing over what should and shouldn’t make the cut. Author: If you could predict, where do you see the food industry in a few years? Feldhun: Recently, there has been a resurgence in a healthier lifestyle. GMO, hormone, and antibiotic free meats and poultry are becoming a selling point on menus. With the introduction of Obamacare, restaurants groups with more than 20 stores in the United States must list the calories on every menu item. Similar laws have been in effect for NYC and Los Angeles for a few years now. It does make you think about what you are ordering when you see that cheeseburger with 800 calories. Author: What do you feel is the most important aspect for the customer when dining? 68 Feldhun: Obviously, when I go out to dinner I’m looking for a great meal. I’m also looking for great service. That means many things to many people. When I hired this staff, I looked to hire the warmest most hospitable people in NYC. You can train almost anyone to wait tables, you can’t train them to smile and be genuine. People see right through the fakeness. I teach my staff to be genuine. That means not recommending something because it’s the highest price, but because you think it’s something great. 69 BIBLIOGRAPHY Alex B. Berezow and Hank Campbell, Science Left Behind. (New York: Public Affairs, 2012): 65. “Americans Eat Out About 5 Times a Week.” UPI. UPI Writer Undisclosed, 19 Sept. 2011. Web. 17 Apr. 2014. <http://www.upi.com/Health_News/2011/09/19/Americans-eat-out-about-5-times-a-week/UPI- 54241316490172/> “A Place of Hospitality”– What Is Hospitality? A Place of Hospitality - What Is Hospitality? N.p., n.d. Web. 2 Apr. 2014. < http://www.aplaceofhospitality.com/whatisit.html> Additives. GRACE Communications Foundation. N.p., n.d. Web. 19 Apr. 2014. <http://www.sustainabletable.org/385/additives> “Alinea Restaurant.” Alinea Restaurant. N.p., n.d. 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Tuckman, Tate
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The food trends that will never go out of style: a modern take on how food and hospitality are shaping society
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Annenberg School for Communication
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Master of Arts
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Strategic Public Relations
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06/30/2014
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