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Corporate social responsibility strategies, standards and consumer awareness in the jewelry industry: what does it mean to be socially responsible in the jewelry industry? A specific look into pr...

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Corporate social responsibility strategies, standards and consumer awareness in the jewelry industry: what does it mean to be socially responsible in the jewelry industry? A specific look into pr...

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Content Copyright 2016 Ashley Ray Corporate Social Responsibility Strategies, Standards and Consumer Awareness in the Jewelry Industry What does it mean to be socially responsible in the jewelry industry? A Specific Look into Precious Metal Mining and the Portrayal of Jewelry Manufacturing Processes Through Public Relations and Marketing by Ashley Ray ____________________________________________________ A Thesis Presented to the FACULTY OF THE USC GRADUATE SCHOOL UNIVERSITY OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree MASTER OF ARTS (STRATEGIC PUBLIC RELATIONS) MAY 2016 i Acknowledgments I would like to thank my thesis committee chair, Jennifer Floto, for being so instrumental in guiding me through the overwhelming and stressful process of writing this thesis. Without her encouragement and assistance, I would have been lost. I would also like to thank my committee members Laura Min Jackson and Jay Wang for their helpful feedback and gracious guidance through this process. Their insights were much appreciated and served as guiding lights along the journey of focusing my thesis research. Finally, I would like to thank the talented and compassionate jewelry designers, Alexandra Hart and Tiffany Kunz, for shining a light in the dark of the closed jewelry industry and illuminating so many truths, questions and issues we are facing today. ii Table of Contents Acknowledgments i List of Figures iii Abstract iv Introduction 1 Chapter One: A Deeper Exploration of the Issues 10 Chapter Two: Social Awareness & Consumers’ Knowledge of the Issue 20 Chapter Three: Notion of Being Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry 27 Chapter Four: Sustainability Leaders in the Industry 34 Chapter Five: Tiffany & Co. Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Case Study 43 Chapter Six: Where Do We Go From Here? 56 Bibliography 64 Appendix A: Interview Questions 74 Appendix B: Tiffany Kunz Interview Transcript 76 Appendix C: Alexandra Hart Interview Transcript 82 iii List of Figures Figure 1: Forevermark Advertisement 18 iv Abstract The purpose of this master’s thesis is to explore perceptions and ideas surrounding jewelry manufacturing, the possible presence of greenwashing in jewelry advertising, as well as the availability of “green” products in the jewelry industry and the consumer awareness of these alternatives. The author will analyze data collected through primary research methods such as interviews with sustainable jewelers and content analysis of jewelry advertisements, as well as secondary research in order to identify and define terminology utilized in the marketing of “green” jewelry. These definitions will illuminate the variations and levels of social and environmental responsibility in jewelry manufacturing. Additionally, this thesis assesses the availability of socially and environmentally responsible jewelry choices for consumers and also identifies the communication tactics employed to promote these alternatives. In addition, the author will attempt to identify successful eco-conscious jewelry messaging strategies currently being used in the industry to determine the best methods of reaching consumers interested in green choices and educating the public on the importance of sustainable jewelry manufacturing. Lastly, the author analyzes Tiffany & Co.’s Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) models currently employed by one of the leaders in the jewelry industry and profiles various groups engaged in promoting more eco-conscious practices in the jewelry manufacturing process and field. Following this analysis, the author examines the main issues in the mining and manufacturing industries today, key challenges eco-conscious v jewelry designers face in the sourcing and production processes, and finally offers suggestions for communicating and enacting effective sustainability models and techniques going forward. 1 Introduction Thesis Statement The jewelry industry receives a lot of negative attention when it comes to manufacturing and the environmental impacts it has on the Earth. As a gemologist, jeweler, designer, and public relations practitioner in this field, the author is concerned, yet hopeful, about the way the industry is evolving. One of the main issues the industry is facing is a lack of well-established regulations and protocols. This can lead to corners being cut throughout the manufacturing and sourcing chain in order to save money with little regard to the social and environmental impacts these practices can cause further down the line. Issues regarding a lack of transparency and traceability are the core concerns from which many other problems in the jewelry mining and manufacturing industry stem. Two key terms in the jewelry mining and manufacturing industry are transparency and traceability. Transparency relates to the openness of communication and accountability of a business. Traceability refers to the ability to verify the background of a product and create an accurate record of each step in the supply chain from initial unearthing to the sale of the finished product. As Tiffany & Co. explains in its Corporate Responsibility and Sustainability Report, “Diamond, gemstone and precious metal supply chains can be long, complex and often lacking in transparency. As a result, most jewelry purchasers, and many jewelry retailers, traditionally knew little about the origins of the precious materials 2 contained in their jewelry.” 1 Precious metal and jewelry manufacturing requires many steps. From exploration of possible mine locations, sampling and assessment of these locations, mine construction, mining, and refining, to marketing and sales, there are many aspects of the supply chain that must be considered. Each of these steps sequentially costs money, which is passed on to the next step. Without a rigid, specified set of regulations for each part of the manufacturing process, many companies create their own protocols which may not be as eco friendly or responsible as they should be so they can save money and beat other competitors with the lowest final total cost. Another major issue is the lack of consumer awareness regarding these industry problems. Without consumer concern to elevate the issue, many of these problems continue to exist as the cheaper standards that produce the lower final cost typically win the most patrons and sales. However, there are several companies and jewelry designers working toward being sustainable, eco conscious, and socially responsible in the choices they make and the processes they employ to create their art. In order to hypothesize a possible solution to rectify these problems, it is important to analyze the current issues, observe designers that are currently finding success in being socially and environmentally responsible, and examine what they are doing to instill trust in the consumers and increase education about how to resolve some of these complex social and environmental issues. This analysis will help to illuminate possible resolutions that can serve as standards in the future for metalsmithing and jewelry sourcing protocols. 1 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 3 Explanation of the Issues Metal mining can create a serious negative impact on the surrounding environment and inhabitants, both during the mining operations and for many years after the mine is closed. Safety, environmental impact, and human rights are all major concerns regarding the mining and jewelry production industries. Currently, a simple gold band -- something that should be the romantic symbol of everlasting love -- could instead more accurately symbolize the destruction and exploitation of many people affected by modern industrial gold mining around the world. It is estimated that open pit mining practices generate over 20 tons of toxic waste for every 0.333 ounce gold ring produced. 2 Gold mining is one of the most environmentally destructive forms of mineral extraction. The mining process utilizes harmful chemicals such as cyanide, mercury, arsenic, and lead. These chemical elements and others, such as iron, can react with oxygen to create sulfuric acid and contaminate water runoff and rainwater. Once this acid contamination begins, it is difficult, if not impossible, to stop. For example, Roman mining sites in England are still causing acid mine drainage more than 2,000 years later. 3 Environmental issues created by mining can include erosion, sinkhole formations, loss of biodiversity, and contamination of soil, groundwater, and surface water by the chemicals used in the mining processes. For every kilogram of gold 2 "Gold Mining and the Environment." Brilliant Earth. Brilliant Earth, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://www.brilliantearth.com/gold-mining-environment/>. 3 ibid. 4 produced by galamseys, or local artisanal gold miners in Ghana, one kilogram of mercury enters the environment. 4 Pollution from mining also can come from debris and coal fires that can last years or even decades. 5 Another serious concern is mine waste in the form of both waste rock and wastewater and a combination of the two known as “tailings.” Ore mills, such as gold mines, generate large amounts of waste, called tailings. 6 Another type of mine debris are rock stockpiles. 7 This waste is usually extremely toxic and dangerous due to the gold mining processes that utilize cyanide and acids for extraction. 8 According to a profile of the metal mining industry by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in 1995, domestic “gold mining alone produced over 540 million metric tons of waste” in 1992. 9 When again profiled in 2011, the EPA found that though “mine production remained relatively steady from 2003-2011,” 10 mine waste “increased by 46% from 2009 to 2011.” 11 According to the EPA, in 2011 the metal mining industry generated over 1,800 million pounds of waste. 12 This is incredibly dangerous not only for the environment but especially for the inhabitants of the areas surrounding mining 4 Michaud, David. "Mining Infographics- 30 Ghanaian Gold Facts." Mineral Processing & Metallurgy Research. 911 Metallurgist, 16 Nov. 2015. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <https://www.911metallurgist.com/blog/category/mining-infographics>. 5 "Gold Mining and the Environment." 6 ibid. 7 Terrascope. "Environmental Damage." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/environment.html>. 8 “Gold Mining and the Environment." 9 EPA Profile Of The Metal Mining Industry. Rep. N.p.: n.p., 1995. 310R95008. EPA. EPA United States Environmental Protection Agency, Sept. 1995. Web. 3 Jan. 2016. <http://nepis.epa.gov>. 10 EPA. Industry Sector Profile: Metal Mining (n.d.): n. pag. Industry Sector Profile: Metal Mining. EPA United States Environmental Protection Agency, 2011. Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/documents/2011_tri_na_overview_metal_mining.pdf>. 11 ibid. 12 ibid. 5 sites who are at risk of illnesses caused by exposure to these harmful chemicals in the groundwater and air. The main concern for mine waste is water and soil contamination, which can happen in three ways: sedimentation, acid drainage and metals deposition. Groundwater and soil pollution from mine waste can cause high acidity levels, which can be toxic to vegetation. 13 As described by the American Geological Institute (AGI), If not properly managed, erosion of mineralized waste rock into surface drainages may lead to concentrations of metals in stream sediments. This situation can be potentially harmful, particularly if the metals are in a chemical form that allows them to be easily released from the sediments into stream waters. When this occurs, the metals are considered to be “mobilized” and “bioavailable” in the environment. In some cases, bioavailable metals are absorbed by plants and animals, causing detrimental effects. 14 Although there is limited published data available for more recent years, which is an issue in and of itself, according to a 2002 survey by the U.S. Forest Service, an estimated “8,000 to 16,000 kilometers of domestic streams and rivers are impacted by acid drainage” 15 in the western US alone. After these impacts have occurred, reclamation efforts often have a difficult time catching up and correcting these issues 13 Hudson, Travis L., Frederick D. Fox, and Geoffrey S. Plumlee. "Metal Mining and the Environment." AGI Environmental Awareness 3rd ser. (1999): 24-25. AGI Environmental Awareness. American Geological Institute, 1999. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://www.agiweb.org/environment/publications/metalsfull.pdf>. 14 ibid. 15 SOS Blue Waters. FACT SHEET ACID MINE DRAINAGE (n.d.): n. pag. FACT SHEET ACID MINE DRAINAGE. SOS Blue Waters, 2002. Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <http://www.sosbluewaters.org/acidminedrainage.pdf>. 6 due to the lengthy, extensive history of destruction and degradation mining practices have caused on the environment. Mining can “degrade surface and groundwater quality as a result of the oxidation and dissolution of metal-bearing minerals.” 16 This means that simply from dissolving and oxidizing in natural water bodies, mine tailings and mine waste can deteriorate the quality of safe drinking water in ground aquifers, making it hazardous for human and animal consumption. Numerous precious metal and gemstone mines dump their toxic waste directly into natural water bodies. 17 It is estimated that in total, companies dump at least 180 million tons of toxic waste into rivers, lakes, and oceans each year. 18 This destroys corals and ocean life, and endangers humans as well. When tailings contaminated with cyanide and other chemicals leak into water supplies and are dumped into oceans and local rivers and ponds, serious health implications can result for communities around mines as well as the global public since water is in constant circulation. 19 Even small concentrations of cyanide can be highly toxic to people and wildlife. 20 These chemicals need to be properly regulated and reclaimed. For example, hydrogen cyanide, the same form of cyanide used in metallurgy and mining processes, has also been utilized in “gas-chamber executions and as a war gas.” 21 . Human rights are also a challenge in the mining industry. Miners typically earn low wages and are often exploited. Very few of them are able to earn a decent living 16 Hudson, Travis L. 17 "Gold Mining and the Environment." Brilliant Earth. Brilliant Earth, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://www.brilliantearth.com/gold-mining-environment/>. 18 ibid. 19 ibid. 20 ibid. 21 "Public Health Statement for Cyanide." ATSDR. Agency for Toxic Substances & Disease Registry, July 2006. Web. 19 Jan. 2016. <http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/PHS/PHS.asp?id=70&tid=19>. 7 wage or meet basic needs such as food and shelter. In Ghana, for example, workers receive only 8% of the profit Ghanaian gold creates. 22 This means the people actually doing the majority of the physical labor extracting the minerals for gold manufacturing are receiving less than 10% of the profits gained from the metals end product sale. Another concern is the management of resources by warlords, militias, and others who utilize violence and terror to gain power or control of a region. 23 When these leaders gain control of precious minerals, they often use the profits to purchase weapons and finance terrorism. Many large businesses base their operations in underdeveloped countries to maximize natural resources found in these locations and avoid the more rigid protocols that have been established in leading First World nations. Additionally, as Terrascope, a student-based group from Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), which is creating solutions for unsolvable problems, explains; “multinational corporations that develop in these areas are primarily profit-driven, and may take advantage of more relaxed regulations to the detriment of local communities.” 24 In many of these situations mines open in lesser-developed locations with no predetermined financial plan for properly closing the site later. This often means when the mine is no longer profitable to operate, the business abandons the site without investing the time or money necessary to ensure the mine site has been properly reclaimed and will not cause further damage to the environment. Terrascope also has found that many of these “operations involving toxic chemicals or radioactive waste tend 22 Michaud, David. "Mining Infographics- 30 Ghanaian Gold Facts." Mineral Processing & Metallurgy Research. 911 Metallurgist, 16 Nov. 2015. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <https://www.911metallurgist.com/blog/category/mining-infographics>. 23 Terrascope. "Human Rights & Developing Countries." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/humanrights.html>. 24 ibid. 8 to follow less stringent safety procedures” 25 and sadly in many cases these “companies are less inclined to treat their workers fairly, as local laborers often have no other choice of employer, governments have fewer labor laws, and trade unions are nonexistent.” 26 Therefore, it’s feasible that even companies headquartered in the US, UK, or EU are indirectly exploiting workers in mining communities of lesser developed countries by basing mining and manufacturing operations in areas with little to no enforcement of labor laws and environmentally conscious operating standards. Safety is also a major concern for miners. Many mine workers are being slowly poisoned by the chemicals they are exposed to on the job site. Galamseys work with hand tools and are constantly exposed to highly dangerous elements such as mercury and nitric acid. 27 Mercury contact and absorption can lead to nervous disorders, kidney damage, respiratory failure, and even death. There is also growing evidence that mercury causes cancer. 28 Nitric acid also can be absorbed through the skin and cause nitric acid poisoning. 29 Many workers in underdeveloped countries have little choice of employment opportunities outside of the mining industry, especially in more rural areas around the larger operations. Furthermore, due to the lack of organized labor unions in these areas, the majority of the miners are forced to work in poor and often dangerous conditions for very little pay. While simply trying to earn a decent wage to feed and provide for their families, many of these workers are meeting an untimely death or 25 Terrascope. "Human Rights & Developing Countries." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/humanrights.html>. 26 ibid. 27 Michaud, David. "Mining Infographics- 30 Ghanaian Gold Facts." Mineral Processing & Metallurgy Research. 911 Metallurgist, 16 Nov. 2015. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <https://www.911metallurgist.com/blog/category/mining-infographics>. 28 Ibid. 29 ibid. 9 facing a life full of health complications due to these unregulated, poor working conditions. And, in the communities surrounding these mines, many families are further being affected with no clean land to farm or water to drink. While there are some laws, protocols and regulations currently in place, many of them are extremely outdated and others are too vague to properly monitor the vast issues the industry operations are creating or aid the problems workers and adjacent communities are facing. 10 Chapter One: A Deeper Exploration of the Issues The Most Significant Issue -- Is there one? According to primary and secondary research conducted by the author, the resounding answer seems to be socially and environmentally responsible mining and mineral collection. However, it could be argued that a larger issue leading to these specific problems is the lack of transparency and traceability in the jewelry industry and market. To gain insider knowledge and perspectives, the author interviewed two environmentally conscious jewelers currently working on sustainability in the industry: Alexandra Hart and Tiffany Kunz. Alexandra Hart has been working to “promote socially and ecologically responsible business practices and equal opportunity to artists and consumers” 30 since the launch of her business in 1995. Hart is also an active member of the Board of Directors of Ethical Metalsmiths, a non-profit organization that strives to lead jewelers, consumers, and other major players in the jewelry manufacturing industry to become “informed activists for responsible mining, sustainable economic development and verified, ethical sources for gold, diamonds and other materials used for jewelry.” 31 She is also a long time board member of the Women’s Jewelry Association. 32 Alexandra’s 30 Hart, Alexandra. "Sustainability." Alexandra Hart Jewelry. Alexandra Hart, 2016. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://alexandrahart.com/about/sustainable-jewelry/>. 31 "Ethical Metalsmiths." Ethical Metalsmiths. Ethical Metalsmiths, 2011. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://ethicalmetalsmiths.org/>. 32 Hart, Alexandra. "Sustainability." Alexandra Hart Jewelry. Alexandra Hart, 2016. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://alexandrahart.com/about/sustainable-jewelry/>. 11 extensive involvement in the struggle toward sustainability made her the ideal resource for an industry perspective interview. The author first asked what Hart believes is the most significant issue the metal manufacturing industry faces with regard to sustainability, social responsibility, and environmentally friendly processes and protocols. She responded: Everything! The source of the material and how it gets to the industry is the issue -- all aspects are significant, from environmental impacts, labor and community impacts, political and governmental impacts at the source, traceability and responsibility is a huge issue! 33 Hart highlights that the main issue is transparency. With better transparency, all of the aspects in question could be regulated to a higher standard thus eliminating, or at least lessening, the impacts metal and mineral sourcing have on the environment and its inhabitants. Hart’s points led to the investigation of supply chain standards and the intense need for traceability and rigorous regulation through the manufacturing process that will be discussed later in this thesis. For a second perspective and additional insight into the jewelry manufacturing processes, the author interviewed Tiffany Kunz. Kunz is a graduate gemologist and metalsmith who launched her own independent jewelry company with an eco-conscious approach in 2007. At Tiffany Kunz Jewelry in Los Angeles, 34 she casts her pieces from locally sourced, reclaimed metals and utilizes fair trade stones. Kunz “strives to create artful pieces in an ethical and 33 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 34 Kunz, Tiffany. "Thoughtfully Made in Los Angeles, CA,from Reclaimed Materials." About | Tiffany Kunz. Tiffany Kunz, 2012. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://tiffanykunz.com/company/about/> 12 environmentally responsible manner.” 35 In addition to her environmentally responsible studio practices and mineral sourcing, all of her supplies, “from pricing tags, lookbooks and business cards to shipping parcels and jewelry pouches, are made from renewable resources or recycled materials.” 36 Her industry experience and sustainable approach to jewelry making made her another ideal resource for an industry perspective interview. What does she believe is the most significant issue the metal manufacturing industry faces in regards to sustainability, social responsibility, and environmentally friendly processes and protocols?: Mining is the number one issue. Working with fair trade and environmentally friendly processes is very hard to control and secure. It is not impossible, but there are so many legal loopholes and hoops to jump through that the industry faces its largest challenges in sourcing the materials it needs. Refining and casting processes are also an issue to do in an environmentally friendly manner- as there are specific chemicals needed for the process. 37 Kunz reinforces a notion that mining is the most crucial environmental issue the jewelry sector is facing today, but she illuminated the idea that recycled and refined metals -- while less impactful on the environment than freshly mined metals -- are not without their faults. 35 Kunz, Tiffany. "Thoughtfully Made in Los Angeles, CA,from Reclaimed Materials." About | Tiffany Kunz. Tiffany Kunz, 2012. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://tiffanykunz.com/company/about/> 36 ibid. 37 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 13 Mining Overview Metal mining is a large industry. Currently, the United States is ranked third in global gold production and produced 227 metric tons in 2013. 38 Additionally, the United States holds approximately 8,100 metric tons of gold, the largest official gold holding of any country worldwide. 39 A U.S. Geological survey of domestic mineral commodities and the metal mining industry in 2012 states that out of 230 metric tons of gold mined in the United States alone, at least sixty-six percent was used for jewelry and arts. 40 The major uses for the metals sourced from these mines were jewelry and arts, industrial and electronic applications. 41 At year-end in 2015, domestic gold mines production secured the U.S. the position of world’s fourth largest gold-producing nation behind China, Australia, and Russia. 42 To fully understand the issues the jewelry industry is facing, a brief overview of the mining industry and the processes it utilizes is important. To begin, there are two main types of mining practices used in gold and silver mining: surface mining and underground mining. Both types of mining involve the use of machinery, explosives and chemicals for the extraction process. Surface mining, also referred to as open pit mining, “involves blasting the ore, or rock that contains sufficient minerals with important elements including metals that can 38 Statista. "Gold- Statistics & Facts." www.statista.com. Statista, n.d. Web. 21 Feb. 2016. <http://www.statista.com/topics/1204/gold/>. 39 ibid. 40 U.S. Geological Survey. "Gold." U.S. Geological Survey, Mineral Commodity Summaries, January 2013 (2013): 66-67. 3 July 2013. Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <http://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/gold/mcs-2013-gold.pdf>. 41 ibid. 42 Statista. "Gold Production Top Countries 2010-2015." Statista. N.p., 2016. Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <http://www.statista.com/statistics/264628/world-mine-production-of-gold/>. 14 be economically extracted from the host rock, loosened with explosives and hauling small enough pieces to a crusher to be prepared for milling.” 43 While historically underground mining was the primary method used in ore extraction, due to the advances of “large-scale earth-moving equipment, less expensive energy sources, and improved extraction and beneficiation technologies, surface mining now prevails” 44 as it is “generally more economical and safer than underground mining.” 45 As explained in the introduction of this thesis, both methods produce mine waste, disturb land surface, and displace earth material. That being said, open pit mining normally creates more waste and disturbs more land surface and earth material than underground mining. 46 According to the American Geological Institute (AGI), generally, “for every ton of metal ore produced, as much as two to three tons of waste rock are also produced.” 47 Large mines typically produce up to 150,000 tons of ore daily and up to one million tons in one week. 48 Underground mining uses either vertical shafts or mine openings cut into mountainsides known as “drifts” to retrieve the ore. 49 This means the overall size of the operation is much smaller than open pit mining. 50 However, a few hundred thousand to a few million tons of ore are still produced over the life of the 43 Hudson, Travis L., Frederick D. Fox, and Geoffrey S. Plumlee. "Metal Mining and the Environment." AGI Environmental Awareness 3rd ser. (1999): 17-25. AGI Environmental Awareness. American Geological Institute, 1999. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://www.agiweb.org/environment/publications/metalsfull.pdf>. 44 EPA Profile Of The Metal Mining Industry. Rep. N.p.: n.p., 1995. 310R95008. EPA. EPA United States Environmental Protection Agency, Sept. 1995. Web. 3 Jan. 2016. <http://nepis.epa.gov>. 45 ibid. 46 Hudson, Travis L. 47 ibid. 48 ibid. 49 ibid. 50 ibid. 15 mine. 51 This is a staggering amount of mine waste when multiplied by the hundreds of mines found in just the United States alone, not to mention the larger mines in other countries such as Ghana and South Africa. Another significant difference between underground and open pit mining is the volume of the waste rock. According to the AGI, “it is common in underground mining for the volume of the waste rock to be equal to or less than the volume of the ore produced.” 52 Additionally, the AGI adds, “in optimum situations, very little waste rock is generated and the waste rock can be used to fill underground areas where access is no longer needed.” 53 This illustrates that underground mining is the least disruptive of the two approaches. Alternatives to Mining and New Mine Development While mineral collection and use is a vital part of the modern way of life, there are ways to minimize its impact on the earth. For instance, many companies utilize recycled metal and gemstones in their production. Recycled metal involves the use of metal that has previously been mined and manufactured into a product that is no longer needed or desired. 54 The metal is then refined and reused in a new product. 55 There are several companies using 100 percent 51 Hudson, Travis L., Frederick D. Fox, and Geoffrey S. Plumlee. "Metal Mining and the Environment." AGI Environmental Awareness 3rd ser. (1999): 17-25. AGI Environmental Awareness. American Geological Institute, 1999. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://www.agiweb.org/environment/publications/metalsfull.pdf>. 52 ibid. 53 ibid. 54 "Recycled Gold, Platinum & Silver Jewelry." Brilliant Earth. Brilliant Earth LLC, 2015. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.brilliantearth.com/recycled-gold-jewelry/>. 55 "Recycled Gold, Platinum & Silver Jewelry." Brilliant Earth. Brilliant Earth LLC, 2015. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.brilliantearth.com/recycled-gold-jewelry/>. 16 recycled metal while employing clean and responsible processes throughout the refinement procedure that are Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) certified. 56 One such company is Hoover & Strong, which sells jewelry making and manufacturing materials such as raw metal, gemstones, and jewelry findings to designers and jewelers. Being verified by a third-party such as the SCS, a “trusted leader in third-party environmental, sustainability and food quality certification, auditing, testing and standards development,” 57 is the primary way companies can portray their commitment to being environmentally conscious and convey trustworthiness to their customers. Another alternative to new mine development is the use of by-product collection, which is sourcing “an accessory metal or mineral product that is recovered during processing ore of a different desired metal or mineral.” 58 For example, silver is often a by-product of copper, lead and zinc mining. 59 Tiffany & Co. source a hefty percentage of its gold and silver for manufacturing from by-product collection. 60 This will be further illuminated later in a case study. Jeweler Awareness of These Alternatives In regards to recycling metals, many jewelers even feel overwhelmed when attempting to educate themselves on the best processes to employ. Tiffany Kunz said, 56 "Harmony at Hoover & Strong." Harmony at Hoover and Strong. Hoover and Strong, 31 Aug. 2015. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <https://www.hooverandstrong.com/harmony-at-hoover-and-strong>. 57 "Providing Third-party Environmental and Sustainability Certification, Auditing, Testing, and Standards Development." Company. SCS Global Services, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <https://www.scsglobalservices.com/company>. 58 "Byproduct Definition." Resource/Mining Dictionary. Casey Research, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <https://www.caseyresearch.com/resource-dictionary/definition/byproduct>. 59 ibid. 60 "Tiffany & Co. Metals." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 17 I am currently doing more research on this side of the industry as I feel I don’t have a great understanding of what alternative options are out there yet. 61 If jewelers themselves do not even know the best available alternative methods and processes to employ, or materials to use in the production of their jewelry, how can they be expected to embark on an eco-conscious approach? Additionally, if jewelers or jewelry sales professionals are unaware of these alternatives they will not be able to communicate these issues or solutions to consumers, which will limit public awareness and therefore limit public demand for the restructuring of current legislative policies surrounding these issues. Issues with Consumer Communication of Alternatives While little has been published about the rate of consumer awareness or knowledge of the mining industry issues, it is safe to assume consumer communication is lacking in regards to communicating these alternatives. For example, while performing content analysis on consumer advertisements of jewelry in high fashion and bridal magazines, the author found only one advertisement that mentioned responsible sourcing of diamonds out 56 jewelry ads from a total of 10 magazines. (See Figure 1) 61 Kunz, Tiffany. "Thoughtfully Made in Los Angeles, CA,from Reclaimed Materials." About | Tiffany Kunz. Tiffany Kunz, 2012. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://tiffanykunz.com/company/about/> 18 Figure 1: Forevermark Advertisement 62 None of the advertisements even mentioned alternatives such as recycled metals or gemstones. Overall, it seems that most of the companies that have the power to correct the social and ecological issues in the mining industry are not speaking up about it and even the ones that are, such as Tiffany & Co., are not directly addressing these issues through advertisements. This begs the question, “Why not?” Many of these companies are actually employing Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) protocols and 62 Forevermark, The De Beers Group. Brides Aug.-Sept. 2015: n. pag. Print. 19 standards, at least to some degree. Wouldn’t it make sense to gain a customer base by acknowledging the things the company is doing to protect the environment and human rights throughout the production of the products they are selling? Additionally, consumers tend to obtain the majority of their information regarding jewelry products through advertisements and company websites directly. Therefore, if these companies are not speaking up about it, there is very little opportunity for consumers to learn about these issues elsewhere. But why should consumers even care about these issues? Well, since they control the demand for the product, they also have the power to drive the demand for change. However, the way the industry is regulated now, consumer demand for these products could actually be driving the demand for further exploitation of the earth and mine workers. 20 Chapter Two: Social Awareness & Consumers’ Knowledge of the Issue How Informed is the General Public? To gain insight on discussions between consumers and jewelers regarding the social responsibility issues the industry is facing, the author asked Alexandra Hart and Tiffany Kunz how aware they thought the public is of metalsmithing practices and jewelry manufacturing processes. Hart: Not very! [Much] like automobile mechanics, I think most people don’t even think about it- [they] just bring it to someone who does it. 63 Kunz: I don’t think there is much [public] understanding of the processes at this point. 64 Terminology Used in Jewelry Advertising -- What Does It Really Mean? Much of the terminology used in marketing products such as jewelry hold no weight due to the lack of set standards and definitions behind them. Terms such as eco- friendly, environmentally friendly and ethically sourced are often over-used, which leads to a lack of credibility. 63 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 64 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 21 According to a literature review and content analysis conducted by the author, the most commonly used terms discovered through primary and secondary research were recycled, reclaimed or refined minerals and metals, environmentally/eco-friendly, environmentally/eco-conscious, fair trade, sustainable metal sourcing, conflict free minerals, traceable, certified, and ethically sourced. To fully understand these vague terms and subsequently the actual green-ness behind them-- meaning exactly how environmentally conscious or legitimately green these terms are-- the author enlisted secondary research and the interviews with Alexandra Hart and Tiffany Kunz. The terms recycled, reclaimed and refined in reference to minerals and metals have previously been defined in this thesis. As for traceable, the author turned to Alexandra Hart, who commonly uses this term in her own description of material sourcing. Hart explained that the term refers to “an honesty chain and transparency throughout the supply chain,” 65 so to speak. Traceable means that the maker, or jeweler, knows where the mineral or metal comes from, down to a particular source, and is traceable to the end consumer even through the sorting, cutting, and other processes. 66 Typically these minerals and metals go through fewer steps and are accompanied by an invoice that proves their origin. 67 Traceability goes further than what is known as “the Kimberley Process” for diamonds – which involves sealing the diamonds at the mine in a package but which is then opened through the different 65 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 66 ibid. 67 ibid. 22 stages, mixed and re-sealed – where sometimes the origin is unknown after all the sorting and mixing, or will only be known to the initial dealer. 68 Environmentally conscious, or eco-conscious, is a term Tiffany Kunz uses frequently when describing her work and approach, as do many other jewelers that communicate social and environmental responsibility and sustainability. This phrase refers to the artists’ intention and effort to create their work in an ethical and environmentally responsible manner – to be conscientious and diligent in remaining aware of the issues, working to resolve them and sourcing in ways that makes them part of the solution, not the problem. 69 This definition also may apply to the term ethically sourced. The terms fair trade, conflict free, and ethically sourced are typically used when referring to human rights standards in the mining and manufacturing process. Fair trade involves supporting artisanal and small-scale miners in achieving better prices, fair trading terms, better working conditions, and more environmentally responsible standards. 70 The prices are usually higher for fair trade materials than for metals sourced from large company-owned mines, but there is much greater transparency and traceability. Conflict free sourcing refers to not purchasing metals and minerals from areas where these goods are determined to be financing social conflict, such as with those in 68 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 69 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 70 Parry, Martine. "New Fairtrade Gold and Precious Metals Standards Published." Fairtrade.org.uk. Fairtrade Foundation, 12 Nov. 2013. Web. 4 Jan. 2016. <http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/en/media- centre/news/november-2013/new-fairtrade-gold-and-precious-metal>. 23 civil unrest or occupation by terrorist groups or violent militias. These areas are often located in the Democratic Republic of Congo and adjoining countries. 71 The term conflict minerals “refers to raw materials that come from a particular part of the world where conflict is occurring and affects the mining and trading of those materials.” 72 The mining of these minerals in such areas is sometimes performed by workers who have been forced into labor with very bad conditions and little to no pay, including child labor. Additionally, many times the trading of precious materials such as gold, diamond, and gemstones in these areas have been found to ultimately fund weapon purchases by militant groups. The term certified typically refers to an SCS certification as explained in Chapter One. SCS certification also will be further elaborated upon in Chapter Six. As far as can be currently determined, the terms environmentally friendly and eco-friendly are borderline oxymorons when it comes to describing the metal mining industry. In the author’s opinion, these terms are used far too loosely and do not accurately describe any part of the processes used in creating metal jewelry. No part of metal manufacturing is “friendly” nor beneficial to the environment. Environmentally friendly actions do not disrupt the environment and either do not harm the earth or actually go as far as to help the earth. Mining, in any fashion, is to some degree disruptive and harmful to the environment. 71 "What Are Conflict Minerals?" Source Intelligence. Source Intelligence, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.sourceintelligence.com/what-are-conflict-minerals/>. 72 ibid. 24 Greenwashing in the Industry Another concern with the jewelry industry’s consumer communication regarding Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) measures and eco-conscious alternatives is the idea of greenwashing. Greenwashing refers to green marketing that is deceptively used to promote the image that a company’s products, protocols or policies are environmentally friendly when in reality these companies exert a larger effort on advertising these claims rather than actually implementing approaches to minimize the negative environmental impact. 73 Greenpeace defines greenwashing as “the act of misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or the environmental benefits of a product or service.” 74 Generally speaking, if a company uses the terms environmentally friendly and eco-friendly instead of “eco-conscious” when referring to metal jewelry or jewelry with mined stones or minerals, they are greenwashing. The Notion of Publicly Ignoring These Issues The lack of mention of social responsibility or environmentally conscious practices in consumer communication, in turn, leads to insufficient consumer awareness about these issues and alternatives in the first place. Many consumers are uninformed of the vastness or seriousness of the environmental issues the jewelry industry is facing. 73 "About Greenwashing." Greenwashing Index. EnviroMedia Social Marketing, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.greenwashingindex.com/about-greenwashing/>. 74 "Greenwashing- What's This All About?" Greenpeace. Greenpeace, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.stopgreenwash.org/>. 25 Many jewelry companies do not actively promote their Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) work or sustainability commitment publicly. Several questions may be raised regarding the issue of sustainability: “Is this part of the problem? Should they be advertising this? If more companies were advertising CSR commitments, would things be changing?” While this is all speculation and hypothetical, it raises the important notion that these are the companies and platforms that have the power to bring awareness to these issues. Shouldn’t they be responsible to do so? One of them does: Tiffany & Co (Tiffany’s). For years, Tiffany’s has issued public statements encouraging of the industry to independently step up and create sustainability standards and protect the environment. In regards to its social responsibility and sustainability actions, the company says, “As a leader in the jewelry industry, we believe that we have both a business imperative and moral obligation to look beyond our own business practices to support responsible behavior throughout the entire jewelry supply chain.” 75 In Tiffany & Co.’s 2014 Sustainability Report, it goes on to explain: “Our relationship with nature has a rich history. For over 175 years, the natural world has inspired Tiffany & Co. designers, customers and employees while providing the precious materials that give life and form to our designs. We believe that we have a moral imperative to help sustain the natural environment, and are deeply committed to responsible corporate citizenship.” 76 75 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 76 "Tiffany & Co. Integrating Sustainability." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 26 Tiffany & Co. makes a powerful point that when creating something inspired by and sourced from nature, it is important to sustain a positive relationship with the environment. It is imperative that the industry protects the most valuable resource that gives life and success to the company, the earth. 27 Chapter Three: Notion of Being Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry Current Standards and Accepted Approaches Several sustainability standards and approaches are currently being utilized in the jewelry industry to self-regulate and remain accountable. Concerned metalsmiths and jewelers themselves developed many of these protocols. The most widespread and frequently used are Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) certification and The Golden Rules by EARTHWORKS’ 77 The Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) is an independent third-party certification organization that utilizes scientific processes to perform audits and tests on companies that wish to be certified for sustainable processes, practices and policies. The Golden Rules are a set of guidelines dedicated to ensuring more responsible mining. 78 They are a list of 11 “rules” ranging from human rights of the citizens surrounding mining sites, workers’ rights, to environmental care and verification process protocols. 79 Jewelers, and others in the jewelry industry, are able to sign the “No Dirty Gold” pledge as well to publicly declare their commitment to being environmentally conscious and socially responsible in their practices. 80 Another standard gaining recognition is the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, or LEED®, green building certification program in which studios, 77 "The Golden Rules." No Dirty Gold. EARTHWORKS', n.d. Web. 06 Jan. 2016. <http://nodirtygold.earthworksaction.org/retailers/golden_rules#.VozIUxHzTCL>. 78 ibid. 79 ibid. 80 ibid. 28 offices and stores are being updated and upgraded to new energy efficient and more green standards. Current Laws and Regulations As of 2016, there are no globally mandated laws in place regarding mining practices and the laws and regulations in action in the United States are extremely outdated. The 1872 General Mining Act In the U.S., the law still governing the use of federal land for metal mining is the 1872 General Mining Act, which was signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant. 81 This means the pricing to stake a claim on federal land for the exploration and mining of precious metals was set more than 150 years ago. The Act allows U.S. citizens to “claim land with the intent of mining in units of 20 acres by fulfilling an annual work requirement and holding fee of $100 per claim.” 82 It also “permits U.S. citizens to convert their claim to ownership of the land by acquiring a title and mineral patent to both the minerals and the land for $2.50- $5 an acre.” 83 Therefore, for under $10 an acre per year, federal land can be claimed and owned for mining. Not only are mining companies getting great bargains on federal land, they aren’t paying royalties on these minerals, either. As Jim Snyder for Bloomberg Business explains, “Oil, gas and coal resources mined on federal land incur royalties on the 81 Snyder, Jim. "Miners May Pay U.S. More in Royalties Under 1872 Overhaul." Bloomberg.com. Bloomberg, 15 Jan. 2013. Web. 06 Jan. 2016. <http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2013-01- 16/miners-may-pay-u-s-more-in-royalties-under-1872-overhaul>. 82 Mining Law of 1866, 14 Stat. 251 (1866), and General Mining Law of 1872, 17 Stat. 91 (1872) (codified at 30 U.S.C. §§ 21-54. 83 ibid. 29 theory that they are the public’s assets. Those royalties aren’t applied to so-called hardrock minerals such as gold and silver under the 1872 law, though mining companies pay fees to secure a claim and an annual maintenance charge.” 84 Since hardrock mineral mines have just as much impact on the environment, if not more, as operations producing oil, gas, and coal, it doesn’t make sense that certain mined minerals and materials have a royalty imposed while precious metal mining does not. Velma Smith, a government relations officer at the Pew Environment Group, discussed the negative implications of this outdated system in an interview for Bloomberg Business, saying, “The way the law works is you’re making it lucrative and easy for mining to happen– often in the wrong place and often without adequate environmental controls.” 85 The logic here is that the incredibly low price tag associated with the land available to be mined in the U.S., coupled with the lack of regulations or royalties imposed, allow the mining industry to remain extremely profitable with little regard for any detriment to the environment. Basically, as long as companies pay these trivial fees, the land is fair game to destroy, often without a proper reclamation plan in place. At the time the law was enacted, there was little –if any– knowledge about environmental protections and processes or impacts. Consequently, no environmental regulations or codes were written into the law and, as a result, a significant amount of damage has been done in mining areas. Current environmental protection acts are having a hard time catching up with the destruction through reclamation efforts. 84 Snyder, Jim. "Miners May Pay U.S. More in Royalties Under 1872 Overhaul." Bloomberg.com. Bloomberg, 15 Jan. 2013. Web. 06 Jan. 2016. <http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2013-01- 16/miners-may-pay-u-s-more-in-royalties-under-1872-overhaul>. 85 ibid. 30 Proposed Acts One possible solution would be updating the mining laws, outlining detailed and rigorous environmental regulations to govern mining production and impose royalties, using those royalties to reclaim abandoned mines and clean up domestic environments affected by mining. Numerous additional bills and acts have been proposed; however, none have been signed into law. For example, S. 1848, Cleanup of Inactive and Abandoned Mines Act was proposed to Congress in 2005 but not enacted. 86 The act operates under what is referred to as the Good Samaritan Legislation. As EARTHWORKS’ explains, its purpose was “to encourage reclamation by granting Clean Water Act liability waivers to “Good Samaritans” -- ideally state or local governments, or civic organizations -- who would then clean up the pollution already draining from hardrock mines.” 87 Unfortunately, this act did not identify a funding source nor standards for mine cleanup. The Hardrock Mining and Reclamation Act of 2009, or HR 699, was proposed with specific attempts to address the shortcomings in S. 1848, but it had not passed as of the time of this writing in 2016. 88 The proposed Act would extend land protection to National Parks and National Monuments, as well as increase the acreage of “off-limits” land that hold critical environmental value. Another change would have been extending 86 S. 1848 — 109th Congress: Cleanup of Inactive and Abandoned Mines Act.” www.GovTrack.us. 2005. January 6, 2016 <https://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/109/s1848> 87 GOOD SAMARITAN LEGISLATION ISN’T THE SOLUTION TO OUR HARDROCK MINE RECLAMATION PROBLEM (2015): n. pag. Earthworksaction.org. EARTHWORKS' Web. 6 Jan. 2016. <https://www.earthworksaction.org/files/publications/FACTSHEET_-_Good_Samaritan_2015.pdf>. 88 Pagel, Lauren. "EARTHWORKS Fact Sheet: Hardrock Mining and Reclamation Act of 2009." EARTHWORKS' EARTHWORKS', 2 Mar. 2009. Web. 07 Jan. 2016. <https://www.earthworksaction.org/library/detail/earthworks_fact_sheet_hardrock_mining_and_reclamatio n_act_of_2009#.Vo4Z9BHzTCJ>. 31 the ability to put lands off limits to mining to state, local and tribal governments. 89 HR 699 also established an 8% royalty for new mines and a 4% royalty for existing mines, and converted two-thirds of all royalty revenues collected to hardrock mine reclamation and the remaining third to a newly created Locatable Minerals Community Impact Assistance Fund that would provide assistance to the communities “socially or economically impacted by mineral activities.” 90 These royalties and funds were intended to empower government organizations to begin restoration on more than 500,000 domestic abandoned hardrock mines. 91 Finally, the Act would also have set specific environmental standards, a definition of how to reclaim a mine and require enforcement and inspection with fines associated to any violations– none of which are not included in the current mandates. Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) Another mining regulation process is the Kimberley Process. Many retailers and jewelers advertise being Kimberley Process Compliant. As Tiffany & Co. explains, “The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) is an international cooperative monitoring system created by governments, industry and civil society to eliminate the flow of ‘conflict diamonds’– rough diamonds that are sold (and often smuggled) by rebel movements to finance wars against legitimate governments.” 92 Tiffany’s explains that the KPCS “requires participating countries to tightly control the import and export of 89 Pagel, Lauren. "EARTHWORKS Fact Sheet: Hardrock Mining and Reclamation Act of 2009." EARTHWORKS' EARTHWORKS', 2 Mar. 2009. Web. 07 Jan. 2016. <https://www.earthworksaction.org/library/detail/earthworks_fact_sheet_hardrock_mining_and_reclamatio n_act_of_2009#.Vo4Z9BHzTCJ>. 90 ibid. 91 ibid. 92 "Tiffany & Co. Diamond Sourcing." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/.aspx>. 32 rough diamonds and for governments to establish control systems over private sector trade in rough diamonds.” 93 In order to assure the process is adhered to, rough diamonds “may only move among participating countries in sealed containers with accompanying documentation evidencing the country of export.” 94 While these protocols do attempt to control the flow of diamonds in hopes of eliminating conflict or “blood” diamonds, they are not always completely effective and sometimes diamonds slip through or are transported with forged paperwork. An additional human rights safeguard to the Kimberley Process is the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act SB657 (CTSCA) created in 2010. According to Humanity United, an estimated “21 million people are victims of forced labor around the world, and forced labor in the private economy generates $150 billion in illegal profits every year.” 95 The CTSCA helps to prevent opaque supply chains and corruption in outsourcing production by requiring companies to “disclose their efforts to eradicate forced labor within their supplier network.” 96 Though government officials have been slow to act initially, it seems they are finally realizing the necessity of regulations such as these. Currently there are anti-forced labor laws and regulations in the US, UK and the EU. 97 However, part of the concern is how these laws and regulations regarding social and ecological issues are enforced if a company headquartered in the US, UK or 93 "Tiffany & Co. Diamond Sourcing." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/.aspx>. 94 ibid. 95 "Know The Chain | The Issue." Know The Chain. Humanity United, n.d. Web. 9 Jan. 2016. <https://www.knowthechain.org/the-issue/>. 96 ibid. 97 "Know The Chain | The Issue." Know The Chain. Humanity United, n.d. Web. 9 Jan. 2016. <https://www.knowthechain.org/the-issue/>. 33 EU has mining operations in a different country that doesn’t operate under these same regulations. 34 Chapter Four: Sustainability Leaders in the Industry Existing Jewelry Companies and Organizations Working Towards Social Responsibility Standards Several non-governmental organizations (NGOs), nonprofits and other initiatives are raising the bar to improve standards for responsible sourcing and manufacturing processes in the jewelry industry. Nonprofits Among the key players creating change and reaching consumers and policy makers are nonprofit organizations. Some of the most active nonprofits working to improve these standards as determined by the author’s research are Ethical Metalsmiths, EARTHWORKS, Oxfam America, the Responsible Jewellery Council, and the Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform. Ethical Metalsmiths Established in 2004 by Susan Kingsley and Christina Miller, Ethical Metalsmiths (EM) is an organization of jewelers and metalsmiths concerned with responsible precious metal mining and sourcing of jewelry making materials. 98 In hopes of creating a sustainable future, their mission is to “lead jewelers and consumers in becoming informed activists for responsible mining, sustainable economic development and 98 "Ethical Metalsmiths." - About Us. Ethical Metalsmiths, 2011. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://ethicalmetalsmiths.org/about-us>. 35 verified, ethical sources of materials used in making jewelry.” 99 EM partners with other jewelry trade organizations such as Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG) and EARTHWORKS to hold conferences and create committees aimed at educating metalsmiths and improving policies and regulations in the industry. 100 EARTHWORKS In 2005, Earthworks evolved from two other organizations: the Mineral Policy Center and the Oil & Gas Accountability Project. 101 Earthworks strives to protect the environment against the impacts of mining and better communities affected by mining, as well as search for and promote sustainable alternatives. 102 Earthworks also partnered with Oxfam America to create the international No Dirty Gold campaign focused on educating those in the industry, as well as consumers, of the impact irresponsible gold mining has on the environment and surrounding communities. 103 Their hope is that through education and increased awareness, jewelers and consumers will demand more responsible and sustainable alternatives to traditional “dirty” mining practices and will create a more transparent supply chain. 104 99 "Ethical Metalsmiths." - About Us. Ethical Metalsmiths, 2011. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://ethicalmetalsmiths.org/about-us>. 100 ibid. 101 "About EARTHWORKS." EARTHWORKS. EARTHWORKS, n.d. Web. 09 Jan. 2016. <https://www.earthworksaction.org/about>. 102 ibid. 103 ibid. 104 ibid. 36 Oxfam America The focus of Oxfam America is correcting social injustices and raising the standards for human rights. 105 As a global organization, they strive to correct issues such as poverty, hunger and other social injustices threatening human rights. 106 In terms of precious metal mining, they have teamed with other organizations such as Earthworks in order to combat violations in trade policies and lack of transparency in supply chains that can lead to poverty and forced labor. 107 Responsible Jewellery Council The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is a “standards setting and certification organization” 108 that employs the Responsible Jewelry Code of Practices– “an international standard on responsible business practices for diamonds, gold and platinum group metals” to independently audit companies. 109 The RJC was founded in 2005 by 14 organizations that worked in the diamond, gold, and jewelry industries to develop key standards for responsible sourcing and to raise awareness of best practices in the industry. 110 105 "Inside Oxfam America." Oxfam America. Oxfam America Inc., n.d. Web. 09 Jan. 2016. <http://www.oxfamamerica.org/explore/inside-oxfam-america/>. 106 "Inside Oxfam America." Oxfam America. Oxfam America Inc., n.d. Web. 09 Jan. 2016. <http://www.oxfamamerica.org/explore/inside-oxfam-america/>. 107 ibid. 108 "About the Responsible Jewellery Council." Responsible Jewellery Council. The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices Ltd., n.d. Web. 9 Jan. 2016. <http://www.responsiblejewellery.com>. 109 ibid. 110 ibid. 37 Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform (RESP) The RESP finds effective solutions for the change toward “the sustainable use of biodiversity and natural resources” through the “development of strategic and business- friendly collaborations” between the cosmetics, fashion and jewelry industries. 111 The group works with companies to “design and implement sound business models that improve natural resource-based value chains management,” determine best practices and facilitate information sharing between businesses, policy makers and scientific communities. 112 Companies Striving for Sustainability Of course there are differing degrees of environmental consciousness, but many jewelry companies are making strides to become as sustainable as possible. As Alexandra Hart says, being environmentally friendly is a sliding scale. Complete success is an impossible yet essential goal. 113 A few notable companies striving for environmental sustainability are Tiffany & Co., Alexandra Hart Jewelry, Tiffany Kunz Jewelry, Zales, Bario Neal, Hoover and Strong and Brilliant Earth. In order to evaluate the success of their methods, the author will analyze a cross-section of these companies’ communications efforts. 111 "About Us | RESP." RESP. The Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform, n.d. Web. 09 Jan. 2016. <http://resp.ch/about-us>. 112 "About Us | RESP." RESP. The Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform, n.d. Web. 09 Jan. 2016. <http://resp.ch/about-us>. 113 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 38 Their Actions -- What Are They Doing? Tiffany & Co. Tiffany & Co. believes in positive industry leadership and setting an example that the rest of the jewelry world will hopefully follow. “As a leader in the jewelry industry, we believe that we have both a business imperative and moral obligation to look beyond our own business practices to support responsible behavior throughout the entire jewelry supply chain,” 114 the company explains in its Corporate Responsibility policy. As far as acting on its beliefs of responsible supply chain behavior, the company expresses a realistic, yet hopeful and diligent in its push for sustainability standards. In its statement about Corporate Responsibility, Tiffany & Co. acknowledges, “Recognizing that mining by definition is not sustainable, we believe mining practices can and should minimize impacts upon air, surface and groundwater, landscapes and biodiversity.” 115 Tiffany & Co. strongly advocates for transparency throughout the supply and manufacturing chain. The company has implemented a Social Accountability Program, as well as appointing Chief Sustainability Officer, Anisa Kamadoli Costa, in 2015 whose responsibility is to “set the strategic sustainability agenda and develop corporate responsibility initiatives for the Company to better ensure continuous improvement of 114 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 115 "Tiffany & Co. Protecting the Environment." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Protecting.aspx>. 39 social and environmental performance, and alignment with long-term business objectives.” 116 More of Tiffany & Co.’s strides toward sustainability will be discussed in a case study later in this thesis. Tiffany Kunz For jewelry designer Tiffany Kunz, much of her effort on the path to becoming as eco-conscious and sustainable as possible involves trying to achieve a transparent supply chain. She says, We’ve researched the companies that we source our metals and stones from to ensure that they are either working with mines that are focused on being as eco friendly as possible or with refiners that are reusing metal. 117 Another key to creating and implementing her corporate and social responsibility standards is being knowledgeable about the topics and trying to remain ahead of the learning curve. It is a constant learning process to continually get to a place that is as sustainable as possible, 118 Kunz explains. She says staying informed on eco-friendly work and shop protocols is difficult but vital: 116 "Tiffany & Co. Integrating Sustainability." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 117 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 118 ibid. 40 We continually research ways that we can be more eco friendly too, besides the manufacturing side but also in the way we work in our studio. For example, studio policies, recycling, when choosing packaging, etc. 119 Alexandra Hart In her quest to become as environmentally conscious as possible jewelry designer, Hart chooses only reclaimed, refined and recycled precious metals and sources from SCS-certified manufacturers such as Hoover & Strong. 120 Alexandra also uses traceable or recycled diamonds. To ensure a transparent supply chain, she chooses only Australian colored diamonds sourced from Rio Tinto. 121 Hart also employs “Good Studio Practices,” a list of best practices for studio working developed by Ethical Metalsmiths that is constantly being improved and updated as new alternative methods are discovered. 122 What Are the Challenges They Face? All of these companies still face major challenges associated with sourcing traceable gemstones. Alexandra Hart says, Gemstones are my biggest challenge. The colored gem industry is one of the most opaque of all mined mineral industries. 123 119 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 120 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 121 ibid. 122 ibid. 41 However, the greater overall challenge is transparency in the jewelry industry as a whole. Tiffany Kunz said, The jewelry industry is such a hard nut to crack even when you are entrenched in it. I feel like it is hidden from the public as to how things work and are made. It is a very private industry. 124 Alexandra Hart echoed, saying, It’s a completely closed industry but they are getting scared enough to work together. 125 Hart’s statement was in reference to the World’s First Jewelry Industry Conference in the Spring of 2016 where leaders in the industry are convening in New York City to discuss major issues and share ideas about how to start to create a self regulation standard before the government steps in to regulate. 126 Another barrier the industry faces is the lack of established standards and a clear path to sustainability as well as the difficulty of being competitive in the marketplace with those that are not as responsible and may cut corners, allowing them to have a lower bottom line. The hurdles [to being socially and environmentally responsible] are so great that there are few [designers/companies] who are willing to try, as it is after all, a 123 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 124 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 125 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 126 ibid. 42 price-driven industry, so we have to be willing to make decisions that affect the bottom line, 127 explains Alexandra Hart. What Issues Need to be Addressed to Succeed in Becoming Socially and Environmentally Responsible? Through primary and secondary research, the author has identified three key issues that must be addressed in order for companies to succeed in achieving social and environmental responsibility. These issues are lack of: traceability and transparency; formal and universal regulations and/or standards for best practices; and, consumer awareness. 127 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 43 Chapter Five: Tiffany & Co. Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Case Study The author chose to carefully analyze Tiffany & Co. for this case study due to the company’s well-known, long-standing reputation as a high-end, multi-national jewelry and luxury goods company as well as for its recognition as a leader in sustainability efforts. Tiffany & Co.’s leadership in sustainability and eco-conscious business practices is not only obvious to those within the jewelry industry. “I have yet to come across another company as committed to sustainability and as serious about conservation as Tiffany & Co.” says Chris Wood, president and CEO of Trout Unlimited, America's leading trout and salmon conservation organization. “Tiffany & Co. has done more than any other private company to address the issue of abandoned mines, and they are an instrumental advocate in the fight to protect some of the last best places such as Bristol Bay, Alaska. There are those who talk about sustainability, and those who lead. Tiffany & Co. is a leader.” 128 Tiffany & Co.’s Chief Executive Officer, Frédéric Cumenal, is an advocate for sustainability in the luxury goods market who has made it his priority to use the iconic Tiffany & Co. brand name as a platform to set an example, and ultimately the standard, for the rest of the industry. Cumenal explains his position in the company’s 2016 Sustainability Report, saying, 128 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 44 “Ours will be an example for others to follow in the materials we choose to use, as well as those we don’t, in the way we treat our employees and in the impact we have on the earth. We need to make sure we honor the earth, which provides us with so much beauty, by doing everything we can to leave it whole.” 129 Partnerships with Jewelry Industry Associations and Concerned Non- governmental Organizations (NGOs) Tiffany & Co. was a forefront participant in many of Earthworks’ campaigns, such as the No Dirty Gold (NDG) campaign that launched in 2005; in fact, Tiffany & Co. was the first jeweler to sign. 130 No Dirty Gold is a promise not to source from mines that do not meet certain social and environmental standards. 131 The campaign also established social, human rights, and environmental goals and standards for ethical and responsible mining and gold extraction practices for retail jewelers to use. 132 Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) Tiffany & Co. collaborates with the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) to develop a certification standard that will ensure metal and other precious materials on the market have been obtained in an ethical and responsible way. 133 Tiffany’s also works with IRMA in seeking to insure “fair and equitable distribution of benefits” to communities affected by mining, as well as the “protection of their rights, 129 "Tiffany & Co. CEO Message." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/.aspx>. 130 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 131 "About Us | No Dirty Gold." EARTHWORKS' No Dirty Gold. Earthworks, n.d. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://nodirtygold.earthworksaction.org/about>. 132 ibid. 133 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." 45 and in the avoidance of, and effective responsiveness to, potential negative impacts to the environment, health, safety, and culture.” 134 With the development of a universally agreed-upon certification standard, many regulations and policies would be easier to enforce and insure a baseline for all mining protocols. Support of Responsible Mining Practices Metal Sourcing As the company states on its Corporate Sustainability page, “Tiffany & Co. is committed to using the influence of the Tiffany brand among consumers and within the jewelry industry to support responsible sourcing practices in the large-scale, recycled and artisanal mining sectors.” 135 To ensure responsible sourcing, Tiffany & Co. is very cautious and considerate when it comes to where it obtains its metal and materials. “We have established our own rigorous standards for responsible mining that guide our decisions about which mines we directly source from. To that end, we have direct sourcing relationships with mines around the world. In many cases the output of those mines is delivered straight to Tiffany’s own jewelry manufacturing and diamond cutting and polishing facilities.” 136 This direct sourcing protocol cuts down on lengthy supply- chains and therefore ensures more efficient monitoring of supply chain protocols and ultimately more transparency throughout the manufacturing process. 134 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 135 "Tiffany & Co. Metals." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 136 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 46 Furthermore, Tiffany & Co. posits “that one of the most effective ways to minimize the impact of mining is to source precious materials from existing, responsibly operated mines, and to utilize recycled sources wherever possible.” 137 Therefore, the precious metals sourced “directly by Tiffany & Co. for use in its own workshops come from two principal sources: in-ground, large-scale deposits of metals that have been responsibly mined and metals from recycled sources.” 138 Additionally Tiffany & Co. obtains the “directly sourced metals primarily from the U.S. in order to minimize environmental and social risks in [our] supply chain.” 139 This also allows Tiffany & Co. a bit more control over regulation enforcement since the U.S. is one of the few countries enacting policy change regarding supply-chain transparency, forced labor laws, and environmental protection regulations. In 2014, Tiffany & Co. reports that it was able to source 100% of its raw silver from two United States sources. 140 An astounding 65% of the silver was purchased as mine by-product production of the Bingham Canyon Copper Mine in Utah and the remaining 35% was procured from recycled metal sources. 141 This was also the case in purchasing the raw gold used in Tiffany & Co. manufacturing facilities in 2014, where 22% was sourced from Bingham Canyon as a by-product and the remaining 78% was acquired from recycled sources. 142 When a company as large as Tiffany & Co. is able to 137 "Tiffany & Co. Protecting the Environment." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Protecting.aspx>. 138 "Tiffany & Co. Metals." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 139 ibid. 140 ibid. 141 ibid. 142 ibid. 47 source its gold and silver supplies exclusively from by-products of existing mines and recycled sources, it sends an important message to the rest of the industry. Mine Waste and Closures Tiffany & Co. advocates that mine waste should be disposed of responsibly and not placed in rivers, streams, lakes or oceans. Additionally, the company endorses that mine operators should be required to provide “for appropriate and fiscally sound guarantees to cover the costs of mine closures, cleanup, and restoration.” 143 New Mine Development Tiffany & Co. strongly believes new mine development and expansion of existing mines should never occur in areas of “high ecological or cultural value.” 144 The company goes on to explain, “Specifically, mines should never be developed in World Heritage Sites, protected areas categorized by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as I-IV, Alliance for Zero Extinction Sites or Key Biodiversity Areas.” 145 In fact, Tiffany & Co. displayed strong opposition to the development of a gold mine that threatened Yellowstone National Park in 1995. 146 The company also publicly and actively opposed new mine development that threatened the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness and Alaska’s Bristol Bay. 147 Tiffany’s even went as far as to take out a full- page advertisement in The Washington Post in 2004 urging the U.S. Forest Service “to 143 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 144 "Tiffany & Co. Mining and the Environment." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 145 ibid. 146 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 147 "Tiffany & Co. Protecting the Environment." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Protecting.aspx>. 48 deny a permit for the proposed Rock Creek Mine in the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness in Montana because it would threaten the region’s water and wildlife.” 148 This was unprecedented for a jewelry company to speak out so publicly or directly in regards to the mining industry. In 2009, Tiffany & Co. was at it again when it placed its first advertisement opposing the proposed Pebble Mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska in National Jeweler magazine, followed by another full-page ad in 2010 in National Geographic magazine “to increase public awareness of this issue.” 149 Again in 2014, Tiffany & Co. placed full- page ads in The Washington Post, The Seattle Times, and the San Francisco Chronicle “applauding the EPA’s protection of this pristine ecosystem.” 150 Eco-Conscious Studio and Packaging Practices Tiffany & Co. also earns accolades for its high production facilities. In its 2016 Corporate Responsibility report, Tiffany & Co. explains the importance of a well-rounded eco-conscious approach to the jewelry manufacturing process that does not stop at the mines or supply chain but extends all the way to its workshops, offices and brick-and- mortar retail locations. “Tiffany & Co. crafts the majority of its jewelry in its own workshops,” 151 explains the company. “These workshops are among the finest in the 148 "Tiffany & Co. Mining and the Environment." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 149 ibid. 150 ibid. 151 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 49 jewelry industry, meeting the highest standards for safety, cleanliness and a productive, welcoming environment.” 152 Specifically, Tiffany & Co. is maintaining a major reduction of its greenhouse gas emissions and implementation of energy-saving programs. In regards to its building footprint, Tiffany’s says, “energy conservation, green building principles, renewable energy use and proactive environmental management are essential pillars of greening our workplace.” 153 For example, in the company’s headquarters, New York City, the offices were “consolidated according to the LEED®, green building certification program to the Platinum level, the highest level possible, recognizing [our] efforts to reduce energy use and other environmental impacts.” 154 Additionally, a variety of other energy- saving programs have been put into action throughout the supply chain in manufacturing and distribution facilities. These programs range from the use of solar arrays to other efforts in response to the CDP, or "Carbon Disclosure Project", Climate Change Request. 155 Tiffany & Co. announced in its 2016 Sustainability Report “following the successful completion of our 2006–2011 U.S. emissions reduction goal, we committed to reduce our total global greenhouse gas emissions by 15% from 2013 to 2020, with an emphasis on Tiffany & Co. retail locations.” 156 Tiffany & Co. extends its eco-conscious sustainability goals to its packaging, catalogues and printed materials, as well. The paper for these products is sourced 152 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 153 "Tiffany & Co. Building Footprint." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 154 "Tiffany & Co. Energy and Climate Change." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/EnergyChange.aspx>. 155 ibid. 156 ibid. 50 “overwhelmingly from forests certified as responsibly and sustainably managed by the Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®), an independent, nongovernmental organization established to promote the responsible management of the world’s forests.” 157 The company also uses post-consumer recycled content in its paper and packaging wherever possible. This includes the trademark Tiffany Blue bag, “which today is made with 50% post-consumer recycled content.” 158 As the company notes in its 2016 Corporate Social Responsibility report, it “continuously strives to reduce our environmental footprint as we set an example for our industry partners and encourage the preservation of endangered forests worldwide.” 159 Commitment to Raising Human Rights Standards in the Industry Another way Tiffany & Co. is making a difference in corporate social responsibility is in the human rights arena. “Our craftspeople are hired from the local communities and paid fair wages to better ensure that our manufacturing operations create a positive impact along the supply chain, all the way from the mine to our customers,” Tiffany & Co. explains in the company’s annual CSR report. 160 The creation of Laurelton Diamonds, a wholly owned subsidiary of Tiffany & Co., in 2002 is a key method the company has used to maintain the integrity of its supply chain. 161 Laurelton “procures rough diamonds and manages Tiffany’s worldwide supply 157 "Tiffany & Co. Blue Boxes and Bags." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/BlueBags.aspx>. 158 ibid. 159 ibid. 160 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 161 "Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Diamonds." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 51 chain that sources, cuts, polishes and supplies finished stones to Tiffany & Co.” 162 As Tiffany & Co. explains in the diamond section of its Sustainability Report, “By investing in diamond cutting and polishing, we seek to maintain the integrity of our supply chain while creating jobs, training unskilled workers, benefiting local economies and securing a critical supply of raw materials.” 163 Tiffany & Co. has Laurelton operations worldwide that “hire locally, provide robust training programs, pay fair wages and offer a safe and respectful work environment for our employees.” 164 These steps not only help the company maintain a clean reputation with consumers, but also boost its repute with mining communities and locals. To ensure it is paying its trained and skilled workforce fair wages in every location, Laurelton teams up with outside consultants and academics to determine appropriate living wages, not simply minimum wages in each area. 165 In 2009, Tiffany & Co. and Laurelton began conducting “living wage studies at Laurelton locations overseas to ensure that trainees are paid at or above minimum wage in the area and skilled workers receive salaries at and above the living wage.” 166 The company defines a living wage as “the rate which is required to support an employee, meet financial obligations of the employee’s dependents and provide some discretionary income.” 167 It also clarifies that “the living wage reflects the expectations of the particular society at the time the calculation is made and is adjusted annually, based on the cost of living in 162 "Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Diamonds." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 163 ibid. 164 ibid. 165 ibid. 166 ibid. 167 ibid. 52 each location.” 168 In this way, Tiffany & Co. is always a step ahead of the industry and labor laws in general. The Tiffany & Co. Foundation Tiffany & Co. established The Tiffany & Co. Foundation in 2000 as a separate entity for its philanthropic endeavors. 169 The Foundation promotes “research and the development of standards for responsible mining as well as methods and models that can be used in the reclamation and restoration work of areas affected by mining by awarding grants to initiatives at the forefront of these issues.” 170 Much of the support The Foundation gives is in the form of awards and grants to “initiatives, foundations, and campaigns that are working to bring together local communities, government, businesses and civil society in an effort to rescue and remediate land and watersheds in which mining has occurred.” 171 The three key areas the Foundation is particularly interested in supporting are nonprofit organizations focused on responsible mining, coral conservation and urban parks. “Specifically, the Foundation promotes responsible mining through remediation, land preservation, community development and standards-setting efforts; healthy marine ecosystems through key research and targeted educational outreach; and 168 "Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Diamonds." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 169 "The Tiffany & Co. Foundation | About the Foundation." The Tiffany & Co. Foundation | About the Foundation. Tiffany & Co., 2015. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. 170 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 171 ibid. 53 the enhancement of urban parks through beautification and infrastructure improvements,” 172 the Foundation explains in regards to its Charitable Giving. Industry Leadership in Standards and Goals for the Future As far as suggestions of what to do going forward, specific measures to take and how to stay accountable, Tiffany & Co. believes transparency in the industry is vital. “Traceability and transparency (are) key to ensuring mines are operated in environmentally and socially responsible ways” 173 and that all parties within the supply chain are kept accountable. Tiffany & Co. officials also know that open dialogue and discussions within the industry are essential to discover ways of increasing transparency and insuring traceability. The company explains “by participating in various dialogues, [we] hope to improve sector-wide traceability so that the jewelry industry may better understand the potential social, environmental and governance risks of precious mineral supply chains.” 174 In the meantime the company notes that, until alternative, less impactful mining methods are discovered, it is important to produce its products from sustainable sources and utilize recycled material wherever possible. 172 "Tiffany & Co. Charitable Giving." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/CharitableGiving.aspx>. 173 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 174 "Tiffany & Co. Gemstones." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 54 Tiffany & Co. also advocates there is an imperative and urgent need in the industry for government regulation and policy reform. In its discussion of industry leadership, the company states that “government oversight has an important role to play in the jewelry supply chain. We are strong and vocal advocates of the reform of the U.S. General Mining Law of 1872, and believe the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency should use its legitimate authority to halt reckless mine development.” 175 Furthermore, Tiffany & Co. says it “supports reforming the antiquated U.S. General Mining Law of 1872 and legislation to assist in cleaning up abandoned hardrock mines. We agree with many in the environmental community, the mining industry and Congress that an overhaul of federal mining law is long overdue. Tiffany & Co. also understands that achieving mining law reform will require hard work, negotiation, compromise and creativity in a public, transparent process.” 176 Tiffany & Co. leads by example by working with IRMA and other certification and regulatory organizations to begin creating a framework for ideas that will improve the mining processes and protocols, as well as strengthen regulations for each silo of the 175 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 176 "Tiffany & Co. Statement on Hard Rock Mining." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. 55 mining and manufacturing process. In fact, the company participates in many public policy debates and advocates for this change on behalf of public interest. 177 Tiffany & Co. is also in favor of third-party auditing and certification. It explains, “the jewelry sector needs an independently verifiable mining assurance system that establishes rigorous standards for social and environmental [large-scale metal mining] performance.” 178 Tiffany & Co. urges companies to work with the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) to develop a “consensus-based, third-party certification standard that will be widely embraced by companies that use mined materials, the mining sector, civil society and, most importantly, consumers.” 179 This is important to provide equal standards and ensure accountability throughout the industry. 177 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. 178 “Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership.” Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 179 "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. 56 Chapter Six: Where Do We Go From Here? The general consensus from the author's primary and secondary research indicates a strong push toward third-party certification processes. These certification processes would enforce rigorous standards for social and environmental performance and responsibility. Government involvement and the implementation of strict, industry- wide global regulations and enforced compliance to these standards appear to be the only definite way real, powerful change can occur in the industry. Consumer-based communication and participation is imperative in the push for these processes and standards. In regards to a checks-and-balances system to help jewelers remain accountable, Tiffany Kunz elaborates, There isn’t anything formal [in place] and this is an area that I think something more formal could be very helpful. I think more regulations for eco-friendly and sustainable mining practices would be wonderful. I would love to see more demand from other companies and designers pushing for this and education in general for the industry. I would love to see more compassion from the industry to support these changes as well. 180 180 Kunz, Tiffany. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 24 Nov. 2015. 57 Consumer awareness and demand could be the driving force for this change in industry-wide policy and protocols. As with all consumer-driven markets, it begins at the end. For example, when asked what the next step towards sustainability in the industry was, Alexandra Hart said, Consumer awareness and demand! Consumer awareness is huge and key. Consumers drive the industry, it is the money that makes the difference and the money is ultimately coming from the consumer. You have to get into the consumers’ head to make a difference. We need to educate at the source. 181 However, the entire responsibility doesn’t fall on the consumers’ shoulders. Each rung in the manufacturing ladder has a responsibility and a voice. From the miners, to the refiners, wholesalers and suppliers, everyone’s united demand for responsible actions is crucial for creating change. Says Hart: Consumers and vendors are both responsible. It’s human rights and we all need to care about it to accomplish anything. Knowledge is key. Staying on top of the issues is critical. 182 Third-Party Certification and Regulation There is currently a need for a set of strict, industry-wide global regulations in the metal mining industry. Though there is not yet a global mandate or law in place to fulfill this need, there are some certification processes available for companies to comply with 181 Hart, Alexandra. "What Does It Mean to Be Socially Responsible in the Jewelry Industry?" E-mail interview. 08 Dec. 2015. 182 ibid. 58 in order to convey trust and promote eco-conscious accountability in the industry. For example, enacting a mandatory and universal third-party certification could be a solution. The primary certification currently available is one from the Scientific Certification Systems (SCS), now operating under the name SCS Global Services. The SCS performs audits, test results, and certifications on a fee-for-service basis. 183 Though the SCS is a for-profit company, it is independent and receives “no financial backing from any institution who has an interest in representing our clients or their products” 184 The SCS partners with government agencies and stakeholders globally to identify socially and environmentally responsible practices, policies and processes that advance the goals of sustainable production across a vast range of industries. SCS Global Services works with leaders across the “forestry, green building, energy, agricultural, fisheries, and consumer products sectors.” 185 While this is a step in the right direction, it is not enough to ensure each step of the supply chain is held accountable. Laws and regulation for each silo of the jewelry manufacturing industry are needed. Third-Party Endorsements Third-party endorsements that record a list of responsible jewelers, such as Ethical Metalsmiths and Earthworks’ No Dirty Gold campaign, are already a part of the sustainable and eco-conscious landscape but unfortunately are not yet making enough of an impact on the entire industry. 183 "Providing Third-party Environmental and Sustainability Certification, Auditing, Testing, and Standards Development." Company. SCS Global Services, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <https://www.scsglobalservices.com/company>. 184 ibid. 185 ibid. 59 Government Involvement One possibility is that due to the scale of the issue, the government and United Nations should get involved. After all, irresponsible mining is a global issue that is affecting human rights and environments worldwide. Therefore, many activists propose the creation of Worldwide Industry Standards – a set of rigid regulations for each individual section and silo of the industry and manufacturing process that enforces the employment of best practices at every level of the supply chain. Increase Consumer Outreach and Awareness Other important steps to take on the way to resolving the industry issues are increasing consumer outreach and awareness. One way this can be accomplished is by communicating details of what protocols and standards a company is using; a company’s best practices should be available in plain sight with clear messaging. Companies could also acknowledge the use of recycled and responsibly sourced materials in its’ products through advertisements in print and digital media. This would increase the conversation on the issues when consumers are in the market to make a purchase. It also encourages discussion about jewelry ethics in the consumer marketplace, which can help encourage competitors to rise to the occasion to be eco- conscious as well, to meet new consumer demands for socially and environmentally responsible products. Another way to keep the conversation going is for companies to take to social media to share views and their CSR practices regarding recycling jewelry and sustainability efforts. Some companies might also oppose new mine development. 60 Using social media would be a good way to encourage and educate consumers about what they can do to be proactive in learning more and choosing to buy responsibly as well. Other tactics to create and increase consumer awareness include conventional communication tactics such as store advertisements and informative displays plus participating in earth conservation events, and partnering in events with NGOs and nonprofits that have aligned goals. Individual Companies’ CSR Campaigns At the end of the day, companies are responsible for their own corporate social responsibility and the degree of transparency in their supply chains. It is beneficial for them and their reputation to be proactive, not reactive, to these issues. The author believes it would be in their best interest to follow in Tiffany & Co.’s footsteps by creating sustainability departments, hiring CSOs, and issuing annual sustainability reports to keep themselves accountable and increase transparency among consumers and key stakeholders. Public Relations Tactics Checklist Below is a recap of suggested public relations tactics the author recommends companies employ in order to enhance consumer awareness of the need for more socially and environmentally responsible jewelry-making practices. 61 • Stay true to the values of the company in every aspect. It is important to resist pressures to cut costs or increase profits if it is at the expense of the company’s values and undermines its voice. • Present a genuine, unified voice. Ensure all aspects of supply chain operations, advertising, marketing, customer relations, policy stances, and philanthropic endeavors are aligned and convey the same values and voice of the company. • Promote the criticality of conducting socially and ecologically responsible business practices to both artists/ other companies in the industry as well as to consumers • Transparency is key. Employing Corporate Responsibility Sustainability reports and hiring Chief Sustainability Officers are useful methods for ensuring consistent consumer communication and may help ensure protocols are being effectively utilized. • Generate conversation. Promote smart business practices the company is employing. Create open lines of communication with consumers and the public by engaging them in policy debates and changes, as well as industry advances and issues. • Abide by leading industry standards and regulations completely and work to create new ones and raise standards if needed. Utilize leading accepted third party certification processes in order to convey company responsibility and instill trust in consumers. This can help keep the company proactive in 62 demonstrating its commitment to environmentally and socially responsible practices and may help pre-empt PR crises in the future. • Be on the forefront of research and development of more responsible mining, sourcing and production practices in order to remain an industry leader and as leverage for generating positive press for the company. • Create helpful partnerships with other industry leaders, industries, NGO’s, conservationists, and industry associations in order to progress eco- conscious efforts. • Enforce eco-conscious practices and company values throughout the entire supply chain— sourcing, production, packaging, and sales. • Proactively admit any shortcomings from the beginning while outlining exact steps the company is taking to rectify these. As Tiffany & Co. says, “mining by definition is not sustainable” 186 but that doesn’t mean there are not ways to minimize impacts and work toward a more sustainable future. • Maintain positive employee relations. Protect employee rights and well being by utilizing safe, fair, and respectful practices and paying living wages. Employees can be a company’s largest advocate or antagonist group depending on how they are treated. • Give back! Participate in philanthropic endeavors that are true to the company values. It is crucial to insure these endeavors align with the company’s core 186 "Tiffany & Co. Protecting the Environment." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Protecting.aspx>. 63 principles in order to convey a genuine voice and not seem forced or give the impression of “greenwashing”. Overall Goal? Achievement of Traceability and Transparency An ideal ultimate goal in the industry would be complete traceability. From mine or other originating source to finished product, this traceability would come from being held accountable by the implementation of new ethical industry standards, revised policies and global compliance with defined mandates and certification processes. However, many of these changes will only come about through the demand of consumers and others working diligently in the industry. However, once this level of transparency and traceability were achieved, it would allow that iconic gold band to remain a symbol of romance and happiness in the future and with it, a promise of a cleaner, brighter, and more sustainable tomorrow. 64 Bibliography __________________________________________________________________________ "Abandoned Mine Drainage." EPA. Environmental Protection Agency, 31 Oct. 2015. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://www.epa.gov/polluted-runoff-nonpoint-source-pollution/abandoned-mine- drainage>. "About EARTHWORKS." EARTHWORKS. EARTHWORKS, n.d. 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Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <http://www.statista.com/statistics/264628/world-mine-production-of- gold/>. Statista. "Gold- Statistics & Facts." Www.statista.com. Statista, n.d. Web. 21 Feb. 2016. <http://www.statista.com/topics/1204/gold/>. Terrascope. "Environmental Damage." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/environment.html >. Terrascope. "Human Rights & Developing Countries." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/humanrights.html >. Terrascope. "Lack of Regulation." The Future of Strategic Natural Resources. Massachusetts Institute of Technology, n.d. Web. 31 Dec. 2015. <http://web.mit.edu/12.000/www/m2016/finalwebsite/problems/regulation.html>. 71 "The Golden Rules." EARTHWORKS' No Dirty Gold. Earthworks, n.d. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://nodirtygold.earthworksaction.org/retailers/golden_rules>. "The Gold Star List." EARTHWORKS' No Dirty Gold. Earthworks, n.d. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://nodirtygold.earthworksaction.org/retailers/the_gold_star_list>. "The Tiffany & Co. Foundation | About the Foundation." The Tiffany & Co. Foundation | About the Foundation. Tiffany & Co., 2015. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffanyandcofoundation.org/about/>. “The Tiffany & Co. Foundation |Program Guidelines | Responsible Mining.” The Tiffany & Co. Foundation | Program Guidelines | Responsible Mining. The Tiffany & Co. Foundation, 2015. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffanyandcofoundation.org/guidelines/responsible.aspx.> "Tiffany & Co. Blue Boxes and Bags." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/BlueBags.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Building Footprint." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Charitable Giving." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/CharitableGiving.aspx>. 72 "Tiffany & Co. Diamond Sourcing." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Energy and Climate Change." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/EnergyChange.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Gemstones." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Industry Leadership." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Industry.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Integrating Sustainability." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Metals." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Mining and the Environment." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Protecting the Environment." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Protecting.aspx>. 73 "Tiffany & Co. Responsible Mining." Corporate Responsibility. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR/Mining.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Statement on Hard Rock Mining." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Diamonds." Corporate Responsibility Sustainability Report PDF. Tiffany & Co., n.d. Web. 01 Jan. 2016. <http://www.tiffany.com/CSR.aspx>. "Towards Better Mining." EARTHWORKS' No Dirty Gold. Earthworks, n.d. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://nodirtygold.earthworksaction.org/better_mining>. U.S. Geological Survey. "Gold." U.S. Geological Survey, Mineral Commodity Summaries, January 2013 (2013): 66-67. 3 July 2013. Web. 20 Mar. 2016. <http://minerals.usgs.gov/minerals/pubs/commodity/gold/mcs-2013-gold.pdf>. "What Are Conflict Minerals?" Source Intelligence. Source Intelligence, n.d. Web. 04 Jan. 2016. <http://www.sourceintelligence.com/what-are-conflict-minerals/>. "What Are the Main Methods of Mining?" American Geosciences Institute. American Geosciences Institute, 2016. Web. 03 Jan. 2016. <http://www.americangeosciences.org/critical-issues/faq/what-are-main-mining- methods>. 74 Appendix A: Interview Questions Email interviews were conducted with Tiffany Kunz and Alexandra Hart. The author also conducted a follow up phone interview with Alexandra Hart on December 16, 2015. Questions: 1. How aware do you think the public is of metalsmithing and jewelry manufacturing processes? 2. What is the most significant issue the metal manufacturing industry faces in regards to sustainability, social responsibility, and environmentally friendly processes/ protocols? 3. What standards to you employ in your work to ensure you are being environmentally friendly? 4. What has it taken to get to a point where your processes are environmentally friendly? 5. Why is this important to you? 6. How successful have you been in implementing your plans for being environmentally friendly? Are there any you have not been able to implement? If so, what are the main challenges in your way? 7. Are you in good company? Would you say a lot of companies are now striving to be environmentally friendly? 8. How do you stay up to date with social responsibility standards? 75 9. How do your customers stay up to date on jewelry manufacturing standards? How do they get informed about these processes? 10. What specific ways do you remain accountable? Is there a checks and balances system or organization you belong to/ employ? 11. What do you think the next step towards sustainability in the industry is? + follow up questions as needed. 76 Appendix B: Tiffany Kunz Interview Transcript 1. How aware do you think the public is of metalsmithing /jewelry manufacturing processes? Answer: I don’t think that there is much understanding of the process at this point. The jewelry industry is such a hard nut to crack even when you are entrenched in it, that I feel like it is hidden from the public as to how things work and are made. It’s a bit challenging to explain but it just seems like a very private industry to me. 2. What is the most significant issue the metal manufacturing industry faces in regards to sustainability, social responsibility, and environmentally friendly processes/ protocols? Answer: Mining is the number one issue, working with fairtrade and environmentally friendly processes is very hard to control and secure from my understanding. It is not impossible but there are so many legal loopholes and hoops to jump through that the industry faces its largest challenges in sourcing the materials it needs. Refining and casting processes are also an issue to do in an environmentally friendly manner as there are specific chemicals needed for the processes. I’m currently doing more research on this side of the industry as I feel I don’t have a great understanding of what alternative options are out there yet. 77 3. What standards do you employ in your work to ensure you are being environmentally friendly? Answer: We’ve researched the companies that we source our metals and stones from to ensure that they are either working with mines that are focused on being as eco friendly as possible or with refiners that are reusing metals. We continually research ways that we can be more eco friendly too, besides the manufacturing side but also in the way we work in our studio, how we recycle, the packaging we use etc. It is a constant learning process to continually get to a place that is as sustainable as possible. 4. What has it taken to get to a point where your processes are environmentally friendly? Answer: Mainly a lot of time in researching and then a lot of time in ensuring that everyone I am working with is upholding their part of the process. I’m not satisfied with where we are at at this point but I feel hopeful that we can continue to improve and find great eco friendly alternatives to the areas of our work that are not currently where I would like for them to be. 5. Why is this important to you? Answer: This became of importance to me when I was in school and learned about how reckless the mining industry can be. I guess my conscious is the biggest driving force in that I don’t want to contribute to destruction of the environment in wanting to be creative but would rather build and make our environment healthier in whatever way I can. 78 6. How successful have you been in implementing all of your plans for being environmentally friendly? Are there any you have not been able to implement? If so, what are the main challenges in your way? Answer: I feel like we have been somewhat successful, but I feel like there is a lot more we can do still. Being a small company has its setbacks with the actual manufacturing. We partner with local manufacturers and while we ensure that the metals they are using are reclaimed I am not always satisfied with their work practices. For example water conservation in their work environments and use of electricity along with chemicals used for certain procedures. I’m thankful that both manufacturers we work with are open to hearing my thoughts and willing to accommodate them to a certain extent, but when you don’t have full control over an environment, it is challenging to know if things are going in the direction you hope they are. 7. Are you in good company? Would you say a lot of companies are now striving to be environmentally friendly? Answer: Yes, I think it is so much more on people's radars these days and that is really exciting! In some ways though I feel like the jewelry industry is a bit behind the clothing industry in its understanding and awareness of why it matters and how big of an impact they can have but people are slowly gaining understanding of the importance of producing in eco friendly ways. 8. How do you stay up to date with social responsibility standards and eco-friendly innovations/changes? 79 Answer: I regularly check different sites that are striving for the same changes like the Ethical Fashion Forum and continually research when I become aware of either a new idea or new challenge. There is another jewelry designer in the LA area that I’m friends with and have known for awhile and we regularly check in with each other, share new resources we’ve found and encourage one another. 9. How do your customers stay up to date on jewelry manufacturing standards? How do they get informed about these processes? Answer: This is not something I feel that there is much conversation about in general. I have some clients that are interested and ask for information but for the most part people do not ask in depth questions. ● See Question 12 for follow up information. 10. What specific ways do you remain accountable? Is there a checks and balances system or organization you belong to/employ? Answer: There isn’t anything formal and this is an area that I think something more formal could be very helpful. This really just comes from keeping myself accountable, which can be challenging. I think at this point though it is a bit of a habit to keep myself accountable but there are times where I feel like I start to slide and then have to recalibrate and remind myself of what I want to focus on. 11. What do you think is the next step towards sustainability in the industry? Answer: I think more regulations for eco-friendly and sustainable mining practices would be wonderful. I would love to see more demand from other 80 companies and designers pushing for this and education in general for the industry. I would love to see more compassion from the industry to support these changes as well. 12. One of the questions I asked was: “How do your customers stay up to date on jewelry manufacturing standards? How do they get informed about these processes?”, and you said there wasn't much conversation about it in general- which I completely agree with! But I wanted to know if you had any ideas about how you think the conversation can be brought up more or encouraged- for example: Ads? etc? Any ideas? Answer: Actually when you asked this question, and I realized that there wasn't much dialogue with my customers, I started to think about ways that we could increase the conversation. Since then I have also found throughout the Holiday season that I was getting asked more about it and that customers seemed more knowledgeable and interested. I think that as a company we could add a page to our site with more in-depth info and have the fact that we are eco conscious be more at the forefront on our home page slides so that people know that is one of our core focuses right from the start. I also thought about how mentioning it more through emails to our customers and through social media could be a wonderful, organic way of getting people involved in the conversation. I'd love to hear your thoughts to on this as to what could be useful and effective. 13. Also- I'm trying to create a cohesive list of terminology used when discussing metal mining processes- Some I am uncovering are: eco-friendly, recycled metal, 81 environmentally friendly, fair trade, refined metal, sustainable metal, and conflict free minerals. Do you have any to add to the list? Which ones hold more weight with you? Do you think there are some that are only used for "green-washing"? Answer: We use the term Reclaimed metal mainly. I decided upon this term as I feel it best describes the sourcing of the metal that we use. I'm sure that all of these terms, however, are used for green washing, but as far as I know none stand out as just being used for that sort of advertising. Sustainable metal doesn't totally make sense to me; I think sustainable metal sourcing makes more sense. For stones, Fair trade is a very loose term especially with any stones that are said to be fair trade through the Kimberley Act. I've found that you have to be very thorough when purchasing stones and really follow them back to the source of where they were mined and cut to know if they truly are fair trade through the whole process. 82 Appendix C: Alexandra Hart Interview Transcript 1. How aware do you think the public is of metalsmithing /jewelry manufacturing processes? Answer: Not very! Like automobile mechanics, I think most people don't even think about it- just bring it to someone who does it. 2. What is the most significant issue the metal manufacturing industry faces in regards to sustainability, social responsibility, and environmentally friendly processes/ protocols? Answer: Everything! The source of the material and how its gets to the industry is the issue- all aspects are significant, from environmental impacts, labor and community impacts, political and governmental impacts at the source, traceability and responsibility is a huge issue! (much more to be discussed here) 3. What standards do you employ in your work to ensure you are being environmentally friendly? Answer: I chose to use only reclaimed/refined/recycled precious metals in my work, purchased from SCS certified manufacturers. As for gemstones, I am in the process of switching only to traceable diamonds, recycled diamonds and colored gems from traceable sources, a nearly impossible task.... I also employ good "studio practices" (http://ethicalmetalsmiths.org/studio-practices) at every turn. 4. What has it taken to get to a point where your processes are environmentally friendly? 83 Answer: This is a judgment call, just living and owning a cell phone is not "environmentally friendly" so I do everything I can to chose what works best in my life and my work. This primarily involves KNOWLEDGE- so staying on top of the issues is critical. 5. Why is this important to you? Answer: Fortunately it’s how I was raised- and have always known, and what I most believe in. 6a. How successful have you been in implementing your all of your plans for being environmentally friendly? Answer: Hmmmm. I would say that this is a sliding scale. Complete success is an impossible yet essential goal. I have had 85-95% success in working "recycled metals only" and 40-50% success with finding traceable and responsible gemstones. 6b. Are there any you have not been able to implement? If so, what are the main challenges in your way? Answer: Gemstones are my biggest challenge, and the colored gem industry is one of the most opaque of all mined mineral industries.... (MUCH MORE TO DISCUSS HERE) 7. Are you in good company? Would you say a lot of companies are now striving to be environmentally friendly? 84 Answer: I would say that there are a few amazing designers who are committed to these practices, and yes, they are the best company. The hurdles are so great that there are few who are willing to try- as it is after all a price-driven industry! So we have to be willing to make decisions that affect the bottom line. ETHICAL METALSMITHS is the org that I am on the board, and is "good company" Responsible Jewelry Council (http://www.responsiblejewellery.com/) is the large org working as well in the industry. 8. How do you stay up to date with social responsibility standards and eco-friendly innovations/changes? Answer: Through Ethical Metalsmiths, Serving on committees (PACT, RESP), reading the industry information publications, using Google searches. 9. How do your customers stay up to date on jewelry manufacturing standards? How do they get informed about these processes? Answer: I blog and use social media, I state on my site and use keywords for responsible practices, and I belong to organizations that promote responsible practices. Customers can find us if they are concerned by searching, most "responsible jewelers" state clearly what they do to be responsible. 10. What specific ways do you remain accountable? Is there a checks and balances system or organization you belong to/employ? 85 Answer: I am not certified, not a large enough company. I do "pledge" publicly, with No Dirty Gold and with Ethical Metalsmiths, and I use suppliers who state the source on their invoices for traceability. 11. What do you think is the next step towards sustainability in the industry? Answer: CONSUMER AWARENESS AND DEMAND!!! (consumers drive the industry, it’s the money that makes the difference!!!! (more on that later) 12. Is there anything you would like to add? Answer: Being responsible in business is more than just having a "clean" business, it’s doing good for the world. It means taking the time to serve others and use the profits for good. I serve on 3 nonprofit boards and work closely with 6 at this point.

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Creator Ray, Ashley M. (author)

Core Title Corporate social responsibility strategies, standards and consumer awareness in the jewelry industry: what does it mean to be socially responsible in the jewelry industry? A specific look into pr...

School Annenberg School for Communication

Degree Master of Arts

Degree Program Strategic Public Relations

Publication Date 04/18/2016

Defense Date 04/17/2016

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Tag consumer awareness,corporate social responsibility,eco-conscious,eco-conscious jewelry,eco-friendly jewelry,green marketing,greenwashing,green-washing,Jewelry,jewelry industry,jewelry manufacturing,manufacturing,Marketing,Metal,metal manufacturing,metal mining,Metals,Mining,OAI-PMH Harvest,PR,Precious metals,Public Relations,socially responsible,standards,strategies

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