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Piece rate structure in the unionized dress and sportswear industry in the Los Angeles area

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Piece rate structure in the unionized dress and sportswear industry in the Los Angeles area

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Content PIECE HATE STRUCTURE IN THE UNIONIZED DRESS AND SPORTSWEAR INDUSTRY IN THE LOS ANGELES AREA A Thesis Presented to the Faculty of the School of ^Commerce The University of Southern California In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Business Administration by Victor Ardon January 1959 UMI Number: EP43520 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Dissertation Publishing UMI EP43520 Published by ProQuest LLC (2014). Copyright in the Dissertation held by the Author. Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code ProQuest LLC. 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106- 1346 Gom- M -SA. 59 A Gil This thesis, written by VICTOR ARDON under the guidance of the Faculty . Committee, and approved by all its /O ^1 members, has been presented to and U\ accepted by the Faculty of the School of Commerce in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION Date ______January 1959 Approved I TABLE OF CONTENTS ! CHAPTER i I. THE PROBLEM AND DEFINITIONS OF TERMS USED . . Introduction ........................ The Problem............................... Statement of the problem.......... . . . Importance of the study..........• . • • Definitions of Terms Used Literature Related to the Problem ........ Material relating to the composition of wage structure................ .. . . . Material gathered for this study ........ II. A BRIEF SURVEY OF PRODUCTION PRACTICES . . . . Manufacturing Processes, By Department . . • Cutting department .......... .......... Sewing department ....................... Trimming and examining department(s) . . . Pressing department . . Variation in Manufacturing Processes Affecting Output of Operators .......... Cutting department ....................... Sewing department .............. . III. SURVEY OF WAGE PROVISIONS .................. Wage Provisions in Labor Contracts ........ CHAPTER Settlement of piece rates ............ . Wage increases . • • ..................... Wage Provisions in the Industry .......... Establishing Piece rates on the basis of bargaining ...... ............ Establishing piece rates on the basis of a Schedule Schedule of standard prices, description Schedule increments . . . ............ Schedule of standard prices, purposes IV. ANALYSIS OP THE SCHEDULE OP STANDARD PRICES . Schedule of Standard Prices, Extent of Availability ............................. Schedule of Standard Prices, Extent of Coverage ........ .. . . . . . . . . . . Summary of Prices ...... ............ The Master Schedule Comparison of Selected Operation Prices . . V. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS.................. .. Employment of Schedules for Pricing . . . . Contract Requirements as Related to Price Settlements ........ .. . . . Feasibility of Schedules for Pricing . . . . iv CHAPTER PAGE Limitations of a Schedule.............. . BIBLIOGRAPHY ....................................... m APPENDIX........................................... 72 LIST OF TABLES TABLE PAGE I. Guaranteed Minimum Hourly Rates........... 18 II. Craft or Skill as Bases for Wage Payments . 23 III. Amount and Kind of Tsfage Increments in 22 Sportswear Shops .............. 33 IV. Amount and Kind of Wage Increments in 12 Dress Shops................ .. . 3 34 V. Price Comparison of Sample Garment . . • • • 36 VI. Price Comparison of Sample Operation - Dart 37 VII. Operators Covered "by Schedule .... 43 VIII. Shops Covered toy Schedule .......... 44 IX. Percentage of Operations Covered, by Product ...... ............ 47 X. Percentage of Coverage, Summary . . . • • • 49 XI. Master Schedule - Cuffs ....... 51 XII. Master Schedule - Pockets .......... 52 XIII. Master Schedule - Yokes ............ 53 XIV. Master Schedule - Taps, Flaps . . • . 54 XV. Master Schedule - Gussett, Waist Band • • • 55 XVI. Master Schedule - Darts, Pleats, Shirr • • • 56 XVII. Master Schedule - Zipper, Placket, Seams . . 57 XVIII. Master Schedule - Collars .......... 58 vi j TABLE PAGE ! XIX. Operation Price Constructed on the Basis of Time Study............ 60 LIST OP FIGURES FIGURE PAGE 1. Flow Diagram, 1 1 Complete Garment" Production . 14 2. Flow Diagram, HSemi-Section, f Production . . . 14 3. Flow Diagram, "Section Work" Production • . • 14 4. Price Schedule Summary....................... 29 5. Body Schedule......................... 30 CHAPTER I THE PROBLEM AND DEFINITIONS OP TERMS USED Introduction. The garment industry has been one of the fastest growing industries on the Pacific Coast. ! Employment in the industry more than doubled between 1939 1 and 1955. During the same period, the Pacific Coast iraised its share of all apparel manufacturing workers in the country from 3.5 percent to about 5.2 per cent, and the value added by manufacture from $52 million to $312.5 2 million. Los Angeles and its suburbs served as a center of the apparel manufacturing industry on the West Coast. This area had the largest concentration of manufacturlng plants, of sales outlets, of suppliers and of skilled personnel. It also showed indications of fastest growth. In August, 1957, the estimated number of workers employed was about i i Maurice I. Gershenson, The Pacific Coast Apparel Manufacturing Industry, Its Past, Present, and Future, Speech presented before the 21st Annual Meeting of the Pacific Coast Garment Manufacturers, Coronado, California, June 1, 1956. Mimeo p. 1. 2 Ibid., p. 2. 3 Ernest B. Webb, ”1955 Review of the California Apparel Industry,” Western Apparel Industry, March, 1956, p. 17. 2 43,000,^ which constituted approximately 76 per cent of the number of apparel workers in the state of California, and about 2 per cent of the total estimated number of wage and salary workers in nonagricultural establishments in the area.^ The industry in Los Angeles and vicinity became especially noted for its contribution to the design and manufacture of sportswear. 1 1 The Los Angeles market has won a wide reputation for outstanding styling and workman ship in its apparel products. Through motion pictures and television, it has spread its sportswear influence throughout the world.1 *^ Of all apparel workers in California, about 44 per cent were engaged in the manufacture of women’s and misses’ outwear. It was estimated that in the Los Angeles area the percentage was as high as 70. The International Ladies’ Garment Workers’Union claimed a membership of 4,209 workers in the dress and ^Labor Statistics Bulletin, Area Supplement, State of California, Dept"! of Industrial Relations, Sept. 1957, p. 3. 5Ibld. Q Report and Record, Report of the Executive Board of the 29th Convention of the ILGWU (New York: Internation al of Ladies’ Garment Workers* Union, 1956), p. 145. ^Ernest B. Webb, Loc, cit. j Q (sportswear industry in the Los Angeles area. This re- ! (presented about 14 per cent of the number of workers in that i segment of the apparel industry. The majority of these workers were single needle machine operators. Their wages were related to their pro ductivity through a modified piece-work system and were governed by industry-wide labor contracts. The Influence of these wage agreements extended beyond the unionized segment of the dress and sportswear industry. Ho study analyzing the piece rate structure in this area had ever' been published. Piece rates in individual shops were not generally available for comparison. I. THE PROBLEM Statement of the problem. The purpose of this study was, (1) to gather and present a complete basic piece rate structure for single needle operations; (2) to analyze i . representative rates; (3) to analyze methods of rate set- |ting in the industry; (4) to relate methods of rate setting to the wage provisions of the labor contracts. Importance of the study. With a plant investment of only $45.00 per worker,^ the role of the worker’s ®nReport and Record1 1 o£. clt., pp. 254-255. 9« T T Brief in Support of Initial Decision of Hearing Examiner,1 ’ Federal Trade Commission, Docket Ho. 6325, p. 13. 4 i I attitudes and morale in the efficiency of the production process was perhaps more important than in any other major industry. The very indefinite, yet rather important quality standards required in a style product, also tended to enhance the importance of the worker*s attitudes. wIn contrast with many other industries, the workers dominate the technique of production and the machine plays a second- in ary role.” Wages constituted a major factor in the morale of the workers. And in an industry where piece rates had to be settled anew with the introduction of every new style, sometimes as often as several times a day, wages and piece rates were at the fore front of the thoughts of both management and operators. A well organized system of standards to be used for piece rate settlements could eliminate most of the difficulties encountered when stand- ards were lacking. A The availability of piece rate standards could aid the manufacturer in cost estimating and in product design. By comparing and analysing the standard rate paid in a given plant for an operation, management was more likely to devise more efficient methods of performing the operation. 10 Ibid. 1XCf. post. 5 Labor contract wage provisions could be made more specific if they were related to standard rates. Without this relationship much of their expressed intent was rendered meaningless.^ II. DEFINITION OF TERMS USED Dress, Sportswear. There was no clear cut bound ary which separated womens sportswear from other items of womenfs outwear. When either of the two terms was used in the classification of a shop, this study followed the affiliation with a ILGWU Local; shops affiliated with Dress Locals were termed DRESS SHOPS, those affiliated with Sportswear Locals were termed SPORTSWEAR SHOPS. Price. The term Price as used in this study refers to the amount paid by a firm to its piece worker for performing an operation. The operation could consist of many sub operations which may or may not have had separate rates. The term , f Pricet t as used here had been commonly employed in the apparel manufacturing industry. Schedule of Standard Prices. This term shall mean a list of basic sub-operations and their corresponding prices. The primary function of such a Schedule was to 12Cf. Post, p. 37. serve as a basis for computing the piece rates to be paid | to the workers. This term too, was in common use in the garment industry. The garment industry, the apparel industry. As used here these terms shall refer to only that segment of the industry primarily engaged in the manufacture of women’s outwear, excluding coats and suits. Union. This shall mean the International Ladies1 Garment Workers’Union, A.P. of L. -CIO, commonly abbre viated to ILGWU. Operator. In this study the term shall mean a worker who operates a standard industrial sewing machine producing a standard Lockstitch (Federal stitch, type . • 301.).13 III. LITERATURE RELATED TO THE PROBLEM Material relating to the composition of wage |structure. Literature concerned primarily with the com- i position of the wage structure could not be found. Some material dealing with wage levels or production methods made only brief.'and general references to the wage structure. 13 Industrial Wage Studies, Job Description For Wage Studies, Apparel, Appendix C, U. S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, 1946, p. 6. ' 7 ! There was somewhat more information available on j proposed plans, or structures, of wage payments. None of I this was directed at that segment of the industry that was j the subject of this study, nor was any of it found in use in the majority of the firms covered by this study. This information stemmed from three general sources. Some data had been published by the Singer Sewing Machine Company, but was later withdrawn from circulation. The Pacific Coast Garment Manufacturers1 Association published a manual of standard times for sewing operations, and several magazine articles concerned themselves with the specific problems of rate setting in the garment industry. Considerably more material, in an incomplete form, was produced by various bodies of the New York, or other Eastern, industry. This material was often considered confidential and was seldom published. In most cases it received limited circulation in a purposely incomplete form, with some essential facts omitted or coded. It also frequently did not bear any identification marks as to its origin. Since this type of information served as a starting point for the form of the Basic Price Schedule compiled in this study, a sample of each such unpublished information is reproduced In the Appendix. Material gathered for this study. The main source of information regarding the bases for wages in the facto- ries covered by this report was a questionnaire^ made up i | specifically for this purpose. Copies of this question- i naire were filled out by the Union business agents at the request of the Union Management Engineering Department, Pacific Coast Office. The business agents were requested to fill out, to the extent that it was possible, one questionnaire for each shop they serviced. One hundred and thirty-one questionnaires were given out and all were returned. Thirty-nine of these questionnaires reported the use in the shops of some basis for pricing other than, or in addi tion to, bargaining. The remaining ninety-two shops were reported to base all their prices on bargaining alone. Another source of general information relating to the attitudes of active Union members to existing piece rate structures was a questionnaire-^ prepared and dis tributed by the Union Management Engineering Department, Pacific Coast Office, to the participants of a seminar for chairladies and other active Union members sponsored by the ILGWU Educational Department in the summer of 1957. Considerable information was also derived from conversations with Union executives and factory owners and managers. 14„ See Appendix p. 72. 1 CL ' See Appendix p. 84. CHAPTER II A BRIEF SURVEY OF PRODUCTION PRACTICES Garment production has been characterized by a high degree of specialization as to sizes, price ranges and style groups. Manufacturing firms were usually known by descriptive titles reflecting the price range or size of garments.**' However, within a rather broad range of price lines, with the possible exception of the relatively very high price lines, the basic manufacturing processes were 'standardized to large degree within the industry. j I. MANUFACTURING PROCESSES, BY DEPARTMENT i Cutting Department. The primary function of the cutting department was to supply the sewers with parts of fabric cut to measure to be assembled into complete garments. Several preparatory operations were usually also performed by the cutting department. These included examining the piece goods for defects, and sometimes, grading the original patterns. In the grading process the original patterns were adjusted for various sizes without changing their 1 Case Study and Data on Productivity and Factory Performance--Women*s Dresses, U. S. Department of Labor, April, 1955. S'basic looks and composition. Grading comprised a separate i |skill. I The fabric from which the garment was to be cut j |was rolled out and spread in perfect alignment on long jtables. The number of thicknesses of cloth could range from one to several hundreds, depending upon such factors as the number of garments desired, $n& the thickness and type of the fabric used, the pattern of the fabric, and the cutting equipment available. The cloth was spread with particular attention to securing proper tension and match ing of plaids, checks and stripes. On top of this stack, or lay, of material, the cutter then placed the marker. The marker was a sheet of special paper, corresponding in i |shape to the surface of the lay, onto which the patterns jwere copied. The patterns were copied on to the marker in such a way as to effect a minimum waste of material in cutting. Care was also taken to assure that any cuts resulting from following the marker lines would result in the desired position of fabric patterns. For example, if all stripes in the fabric on the finished garment were to be vertical, the marker had to be prepared in a different way then if stripes on the finished garment were to be horizontal. After placing the marker on top of the stack of fabric, the cutter proceeded to cut along the lines of the marker through the fabric. Sewing Department > The cut fabric was then de livered to the sewing department. The function of the sewing department was to assemble the pieces into complete garments and attaching to them the trim or accessories they may have required; The method of assembling the gar ment varied. At one extreme were the ^Section Work1 1 shops. At the other extreme were the ^ ’Complete Garment1 1 shops. Under the Section Work system each operator spe cialized in one or two operations. She continually per formed this operation and then the garments moved on to a different operator for another assembly operation. Specialized operations were such as setting sleeves, set ting zippers, making darts, joining shoulders. Under the Complete Garment method one operator assembled as much of the garment as her machine allowed. Usually this consisted of sewing on a single needle machine all the seams on the garment and its parts. Subsequent operations dealt with an almost complete garment and con sisted of finishing, or special seams performed on special machines. i i A large number of shops employed methods some where in between the two extremes described above. For the purpose of this report such methods were grouped to gether under the term f f Semi Section Work.1 ’ Under the Semi Section Work method some subassembly operations were 12 j ! specialized and performed, in a given factory, by the same ! j operator, or operators, at all times. The extent of spe— j cialization, or sectionalization, varied from shop to shop I I ! in the , f Semi Section Work1 1 group. It also varied somewhat from style to style, thus one style of garments may have had its collars . subassembled by specialized operators while another style, in the same shop, may have had its collars I j sewn in the main assembly operation. After the garment was assembled as far as the single needle, lockstitch, sewing machines could, it was transported to the Special Machines. At these machines certain finishing stitches were applied, such as blind- stitching the hem of a skirt. From there it was, usually taken to the button hole machine and to the button machine. Trimming and Examining Department(s). After the button holes and buttons were sewn, the garment moved to the trimmer for cutting of loose threads. Either the same person or the next one examined the garment for defects in fabric and in assembly. The garment was then taken to the Pressing Department. Pressing Department. The garment was either hand or machine pressed, as required. At times, the pressers had to pre-press certain parts before assembly in order to facilitate their sewing or to improve their appearance. 13 1 I Figures 1, 2, and 3 illustrate the flow of a | typical garment in three different production situations. II. VARIATIONS IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESSES AFFECTING OUTPUT OF OPERATORS Cutting Department. The degree of care and skill exercised by the personnel in performing their operations had an effect on the apparent efficiency of the sewing machine operators. Minor defects in cutting could be corrected in the assembly of the garment. Cutting thick Hays.; tended to produce poorer cuts than cutting light laysv The cut was likely to cor respond less to the marker lines as the cut got deeper. For this reason, managements set limits to the permissible thickness. i Sewing Department. It was usually agreed that sectionalization of work could increase the output of operators. However, sectionalization, or specialization, was economically justified only after a certain optimum quantity of production volume had been reached, and if such volume consisted of a limited product mix. Sectionalization also tended to minimize the importance of experience and general sewing skill required to reach normal levels of production. It reduced the learning period, a deterrent factor even with experienced Figure 1. Flow Diagram, "Complete garment" Production. BUNDLING Single - NEEDLE MACH. OPE RATIONS « SPECIAL - MACH. STOCK OPERA TIONS • TRIMMING* EXAMINING PRESSING • (Finished! Figure 2. Flow Diagram. “Seml-Seotlon1 1 Production. SPEC.MACH, OPERA TIONS. SINGLE - NEEDLE. SPECIIAL —PARTS__ SINGLE - NEEDLE. SPECIAL ■ PARTS. BUNDLING PRESSING* STOCK (Finished] Figure Flow Diagram. "Section Work0 Production. SIN. NDLE, Darts. SIN. NDLE. Yokes. SIN. NDLE. Collars. SIN. NDLE. Pockets. c • . t SIN. NDLE. Tabs. SIN. NDLE. — ► Fronts. BUNDLING SIN. NDLE. Belts• ^ k J f v , SIN. NDLE. Final Assemfciy* 3FEGT.MACH. OPERA TIONS. TRIMMING. — i EXAMINING. PRESSING. STOCK (Finished! IS1 operators, whenever a new style was introduced. ! Under section work and semi-section work methods | of operation, the output of one operator sometimes depended upon the quality of work of the preceeding operators. Here again, minor defects in work could sometimes he cor rected in subsequent operations. The method and policy in regard to the handling of work in a shop had an important hearing on the operators1 productivity. When the operator had to handle her own work, the size of the units handled, as well as the layout of the shop, had a direct relationship to her output. Frequency of style changes and the degree of similarity among the various styles produced, also related to the quantity of units an operator was ahle to produce within a given time period. These two factors varied not only from factory to factory, hut also from season to season within any one shop. A variety of other factors influenced the output of operators; the type and conditions of the equipment employed, quality requirements set hy management, the \ manner in which repair work was done, and many others. These variations had a direct bearing on the wage structure in any given shop. Since piece rates had to yield the operators acceptable wages, piece rates could not he equalized in all shops. The mobility of workers tended to equate wages among factories, thus making it necessary for factories of different levels of productivity, to employ somewhat different piece rates for identical operations. CHAPTER III SURVEY OP WAGE PROVISIONS I. WAGE PROVISIONS IN LABOR CONTRACTS The Los Angeles Dress and Sportswear Joint Board, affiliated with the International Ladies* Garment Workers* Union, served as a bargaining agent for the workers in the shops covered in this report. The employers were re presented "by the California Sportswear and Dress Associa tion, Inc. Two agreements were signed between the Union and the employers. One, effective January 1, 1957 to December 31, 1959-60, covered the sportswear firms. The other, effective July 1, 1956 to December 31, 1959, covered the dress manufacturing firms. The two agreements were similar in their approaches to wage policy. They differed in minimum wage requirements and time tables related to wage increases. For the purpose of illustrating contract requirements, no differentiation was made in this paper between the two agreements, except as noted. The agreements stated minimum wage requirements by craft (or skill). Some guaranteed minimum hourly wages are given in Table I. The agreements provided that certain types of 18 TABLE I GUARANTEED MINIMUM HOURLY RATES Craft Classification Dress Firms Sportswear Firms Operators $1.40 $1.30 Special Machine Operators 1.30 1.25 Machine Pressers 1.851 1.50 Hand Pressers 1.851 1.40 2 UnderpfesseEs 1.30 ^In the Dress Firms1 contracts no differentiation was made "between machine and hand pressers. 2 The Dress Contract stated: Hourly wage rates of under pressers.. are to he fixed by mutual agreement among the pressers in each shop. If they fail to agree, the Union shall decide the percentage of pressers1 collective wages to be paid to the under- pressers. Whenever the Employer pays the wages of the underpressers directly, the minimum wage rate for such underpresser shall be $1.75 per hour. 19! i workers had to he employed t t on a week work basis,f * but could be changed to piece work by mutual agreement of the Union and the employer. These types included all workers employed as cutters, cleaners, pinkers, assorters and others. Regular piece workers could be given day work if conditions warranted. Their rate of pay had to be wthe rate of their hourly earnings. Settlement of Piece Rates. The agreements called for the establishment of price committees of the various crafts. These price committees were to negotiate piece rates for the garments put in production. In arriving at a piece rate for a given garment, for both sewing and pressing operations, the settlements had to be based on a detailed rate schedule. The piece rate settlements, including settle ments of piece rate for pressers, shall be established on an operational standard system established for that particular shop.^ The contracts required that piece rates be settled by shop’s price committees, composed of elected represent atives of the workers, a representative of the Union and management. Piece rates were to be settled noutside of the 5 Agreement by and Between the California Sports wear & Dress Association, Inc. and the Los Angeles Dress and Sportswear Joint Board, ILGWU, et al, Los Angeles, 1957, p. 15. 4Ibid., p. 16. 20; regular working hours of the shop.**5 wThe prices agreed j i upon were to be reduced to writing and were final and ! binding. Whenever piece work prices could not be agreed upon by the committee and the management, n...sueh dispute, in the first instance, shall be referred to a representative of the Union and a representative of the Association; if such representatives fail to agree, the matter shall imme diately be referred to the Impartial Chalrmanl’ ^ If the Impartial Chairman did not rule regarding the disputed price within five working days after the sub mission of the dispute, the worker could not be required to work on garments with respect to which the dispute existed or l f to work on any other garments the piece rates of which have not been settled, except in unusual cases.1 1 ® All the decisions of the Impartial Chairman were to be retroactive to the time the garment respecting which the dispute arose was first put into work. The contracts required that piece work prices were to be re-determined or re-settled in those cases where, for a period of two weeks, the workers did not earn 5Ibid. Ibid. 7Ibid. 8Ibid. ”an amount at least equal to their minimum wages as sti- i pulated in this agreement.®^ i I If piece rate workers were required to perform ( work for which no piece rates could he established, such as making samples, they were to be paid hourly rates lfequal to the respective workers1 average hourly earnings during the first preceding week of full time employment.11^ Wage Increases. Both agreements required an increase in pay of ten cents an hour, effective on differ ent dates. In the case of piece workers, such wage in creases had to be stated separately on the payroll records of the employer and on the payroll record issued to the employee. However, the employer had a right to convert such increases to 1 1 an equivalent percentage increase based on the wage structure in his shop in each craft. In the event such conversion takes place, the separate statement 1*1 of wage increase shall be in percentage terms.” 9Ibld., pp. 16-17. Agreement by and Between the California Sports- wear Association, Inc. and the Los Angeles Dress and Sportswear Joint Board ILGWU, et al, Los Angeles, 1956. p. 16. 1 1 Ibid. II. WAGE PROVISIONS IN THE INDUSTRY Factories employed various bases for computing wages. Hourly rates, piece rates, or piece rates with an 1 q hourly wage increment, ° were used as bases for wages. Generally, the basis used was determined by the craft or function of the worker. To some extent the price-line of the garments manufactured also determined the basis used. Factories producing high priced garments tended to pay on the basis of time. The cheaper price-line shops, tended to base their wage payments on piece rates. The combination of piece rates with hourly wage increments stemmed from contractual requirements regarding 13 pay raises. The eight shops, of the 132 questioned, that used piece rates only as bases for wage payments for at least one skill or function, where either those which took advantage of the Contract clause permitting them to convert the hourly Increments to percentages of piece rates, thus in effect increasing their piece rates, or newly unionized shops not yet covered by the requirement. Table II gives the bases for wage payments and the number of shops employing the given bases, where this number was available. 12Cf. post, p. 28. 13 Cf. ante. TABLE II CRAFT OR SKILL AS BASES FOR WAGE PAYMENTS Craft or Skill Department Bases for Wages Number of Shops Using Base Specified Cutter, Spreader, Marker, Grader Operator Operator Finisher, Trimmer Gutting Single Needle Special Machine Finishing Examiner, Inspector Examining Underpresser, Pressing Presser Floor help Any 1. Time only 1. Piece rates & hourly increments 2. Piece rates only 1. Piece rates & hourly increments 2. Piece rates only 3. Time only 1. Piece rates & hourly increments 2. Piece rates only 3. Time only 1. Time only 1. Piece rates & hourly increments 2. Piece rates only 3. Time only 1. Time only 123 8 96 7 28 16 1 114 24 I Ninety two of the firms covered in this study, or about 70$, established their piece rates for each style produced on the basis of bargaining alone. The other thirty nine shops were claimed to be using some method of operational standards. This method was usually referred to as the Schedule Method. Establishing piece rates on the basis of bargain ing. In shops where an operational standard system was not employed, the management would present the operators, or their representatives, with a new garment and a proposed rate for its operations. In the case of the f f Whole Gar ment1 1 shops, the rate was for the sewing of the whole garment. The operators would make a counter proposal, higher than the one presented to them. These Initial steps in the rate negotiations would be followed by a process of bargaining that sometimes was not completed until long after the garment had been manufactured. In the process of bargaining both the operators and the management would usually evaluate the style under discussion in reference to other styles, and their re- pective prices, that had been manufactured in the shop. However, several other considerations were usually advanced by both parties: The current financial position of the business as viewed by the parties involved, the record of earnings of shop operators immediately preceding the 25 i introduction of the style whose price was the subject of j I the negotiations, the quantity of work involved, the sell ing price of the garment, etc. III. ESTABLISHING PIECE RATES ON THE BASIS OF A SCHEDULE Schedule of Standard Prices, description. The Schedule of Standard Prices, referred to in the agreement as the Operational Standard System,n was generally under stood to mean any list of operations and their correspond ing individual prices, which could, he used to aid in price negotiations or settlements. A more common term for such a list was wSchedule.t t Several types of Schedules were employed in the industry. All assumed that there was a certain amount of standardization in the operation covered. The Schedules described these operations with varying degrees of detail, and listed their corresponding fixed prices. When the price of operations on new garments had to be settled, the Schedule was used for reference. The crudest type of a Schedule, or perhaps an arrangement approaching a Schedule, was the mere descrip?'': tion of previously settled garments and their corresponding prices. This was done in many shops with varying degrees of formality. When new garments were to be settled, they 26 were mentally related to past garments and proposed prices | Inferred from these comparisons. Because such references j were subjective to a large extent, the resulting prices j were frequently subject to almost the same degree of bar gaining as prices not supported by any references. This type of arrangement was not classified as a Schedule in this study. Another aid to arriving at a price of a garment to be settled was a list of standard operations and their corresponding values or prices. This type of a Schedule listed the operations likely to occur on most garments. While It often stated parts rather than operations, the operations were implied and commonly understood. Thus "shoulders’ * meant "join shoulders," ! t dart1 1 meant "sew dart," etc. Prices were expressed in terms of whole cents or simple fractions of cents. There was a tendency not to use such simple fractions that could tend to complicate computations. While a half cent was used rather frequent ly, quarters and thirds were used quite seldom. Other simple fractions were almost never used. When a new garment price had to be settled, it was first described In terms of the operations to be per formed. The Individual prices of those operations which were listed in the Schedule were taken directly from the 27 Schedule. If the new garment required operations which were not priced in the Schedule, the price of these opera tions was arrived at through a process of bargaining be tween the operators and the management. However, the Schedule could provide a frame of reference even for the prices that were not listed in it. Thus, if the Schedule listed prices for the setting of several types of cuffs, the effort and time involved In setting a cuff that was not listed could be evaluated in relation to the listed cuffs, and the price based upon this evaluation. The area of possible disagreement or dispute was inversely related to the extent of coverage that a Schedule provided. Other kinds of Schedules were directly related to the one just described. One type, often referred to as" a ! , Body Schedule,w grouped the prices of the operations likely to recur on all the garments manufactured at a given shop under the term Body Price. This expedited calculations at the expense of some accuracy in descrip tion and pricing. Another kind of a Price Schedule, used In this area, mostly to supplement other forms of pricing, was the MStitch Rate Schedule.t t This approach was used to evaluate the operations for which prices could not be obtained from other sources. The operations were valued in direct relation to linear inches sewn. Here again, 28 because of the reluctance to use fractions in prices, lengths were categorized in groups corresponding in value to whole or half cents. Figure 4 reproduces part of a Schedule based solely on a breakdown of operations. Figure 5 illustrates a Body Price approach. Of the thirty-nine Schedules examined in this study, thirty-six were based primarily on more or less de tailed classification of possible individual operations. One Schedule adopted a Body Price approach, and two Sched ules had a sufficiently elaborate and detailed listing of garments produced in the past to constitute usable Sched ules. These were the only two shops where disputed prices were settled on the basis of time study. Schedule Increments Increments based on fabric differences. In some shops the employed price schedules formally recognized the difficulties encountered when working with certain fabrics. When prices were settled at these shops, a certain percentage was added to the price of a garment or to the price of an operation if the work was performed on specified fabrics. Since firms did not ordinarily spe cialize in certain fabrics to the extent of the exclusion of others, it could be assumed that the fabric mixes of the firms studied had similar compositions. Thirty-four - 1 - P R S C E S VALID IN PRICE SIHEDUIE summary THIS SHOP ONLY P R IC E S DO NOT INCLUDE IN CREASES OR ALLOWANCES Assigned To:__ -BLOUSE- Date Cents 1. Facings & Collar Assembly: a. Clean finish facings, side & back of neck - 5 b. Clean finish 2 front facings - 3 c. Set label & size ticket - 2 d. Lock collar: - Short - 1 Long - 2 e. Join regular front facings., per pair - 4 f. Join regular front facings with-unattached lining - 6 g. Backstitch reg. front facings - 1/2 to 3/4 length - 2 h. Backstitch reg. front facings - complete length - 3 i. Piece front & back facings - 2 seams - 1 j. Piece waist facing - 3 k. Fly facing - each. (Join frt. facing & lining to form fly - 2 , close fly lengthwise - 2 , position and topstitch - 3 .) - 7 1. Sandwich regular collar - or set with top neck facing 8 m.' Fold under & topstitch regular collar - 1 n. ________- ______________________________; ______________________ q- r. 2. Front & Back Waists : a. Join waistline - 12 b. Side seams (2) - 3 c. Join reg. side seams (2), with attached armhole facings d. , Join regular seams (vertical) - eabh 2 e. Clean finish back waist seams - 2 f. Shirr bottom of back waist 3 g* Piece underarm facings 2 h. Backstitch one facing (waist or top neck) 1 When additions or corrections are made, enter them on all copies. , ’ M A N A G E M E N T E N G I N E E R I N G Number o f c o d e s : . department P a c i f i c C o a s t O f f i c e h f i w u — A . F . o f L PROPERTY OF THE ILGUU - - - TO BE USED FOR REFERENCE ONLY. (June '58) FIGURE 4 PRICE SCHEDULE SUMMARY BODY SCHEDULE DRESS BODY—55c. Two shoulder a earns joining waist to skirt Ribbon at bottom skirt • Facing around neck Facing bottom sleeve Side placket or zipper Closing seams JACKET BODY— 20c *=d ■ M § , Two shoulder seams tx ) t Inside facing around jacket O l Sleeve setting Closing seams Facing bottom sleeve GENERAL OPERATIONS Zipper (back of neck) .03 Opening back of neck with loops .03 Tucks and darts .001; Long darts from 0 to 0. each .01 Loops, each *003 - ' _ ? Pleats on top of sleeve. pair Sleeve darts, pair Shirring up to lour rows Button holes, each......... Cushions /pair ... Binding Long Zipper Long zipper with lin in g ........ Shaped lapel Seai.is on skirts, each Lining in facing Collars other than one that has just two side inside stitches 5c Pleated skirt, each pleat 31 j I percent of these firms had definite provisions for paying higher prices for more difficult fabrics. However, the extent of increase in price varied from shop to shop. The specified fabrics for which these increases were granted also varied. Increment based on garment type. A few price schedules provided for a pay differential according to the type of garment worked on. Thus in one case 10% was added to. the total price as computed on the basis of the operations involved if the garment was a dress, yet there were no additions for skirts or jumpers. Increments based on the selling price of the garment. In some cases the piece rate for assembling a garment made to sell at one price were higher than those for an Identical garment made to sell at a lower price. This differentiation was based on the assumptions that the higher price garment demanded better quality of work and that the business could afford to pay more for it. Hon specified and other increments. In over 50$ of the firms employing a price schedule the price of the garment as computed by totaling the prices of the opera tions required in its manufacture was increased by a certain percentage. The justification for this Increase was sometimes related to handling problems, variously inter 32 preted to mean handling from and to the machine, or handl ing at the work place. This type of increase most likely also stemmed from other requirements. There was the desire to equate wages in shops of varying efficiency and quality require ments levels while using identical operation prices as a basis for piece rates. Closely related to this type of increase was another provision found in one semi-section work shop. This provision required that h% be added to the price if three or more sub-operations were to be performed conse cutively by any one operator. Tables III and IV presents a comprehensive picture of increments to basic prices as computed by the use of a Schedule. Just as the increments stated in column (a), on Table III and IV, were dictated by Contract requirements » and accepted as an inevitable part of the total wage com position, so were the other increments stated in columns (b), (c), and (d) accepted in individual shops as necessary parts supplementing the prices in the Schedules. The justification and the need for these incre ments could be attributed to the inflexibility of price schedules expressed largely in whole cents, and to recog nized production differences among garment shops. The TABLE III AMOUNT AND KIND OP WAGE INCREMENTS IN 22 SPORTSWEAR SHOPS* Shop Past Contractual was© increases Fabric Garment type or price line No explanation or other (a) (b) (c) (d) a. 23 1/3 cents 20-25# (S.V.) None 5-10# b. 18 2/3 cents None None None c. 35 l/3 cents None To 20# (P.L.> None d. 17# None None None e. 35 1/3 cents 2 1/ 2% (j) 5%(n • . 10# (G.T*) None f . 27 l/3 cents None None 5 #- «-• & g- 10# plus 10 cents None None None h. 18# None None 10# i. 27 1/3 cents None None 5-10# J. 27 1/3 cents None None None k. 18 2/3 cents None None None 1. 18 1/2 plus 10 cents 10-20#(S) 20-25#(V) None 5-20# m. 27 1/3 cents 20-25# (S.V.) None 10# n. 24# 20-25#(S) 10#(V) None 10# o. 18# 20-25#( S.V.) None 10# P- l7i 20-25#(S.V.) None 5-10# q- 16# plus 10 cents 20-25#(S.V.) None 5-10# r. 19 1/3 cents None None None s. 35 cents None None None t. 24# 20-25#(S.V.) None 10# U . 35 1/3 cents 15# Nylon 15 Den. -10# (P.L.) 15-25#*-:h5 - 37 2/3 cents 25# Dacron Chif. V . None 7# (G.T.) None * Abbreviations Used: S. - Silk, V. - Velvet, P.I. - Price Line, G.T. - Garment type J. - Jersey ** When 3 or more operations performed by one operator. For first production lot of a new style. TABLE IV AMOUNT AND KIND OP WAGE INCREMENTS IN 12 DRESS SHOPS* Shop Past Contractual wage increases Fabric Garment type or price line No explanation or other / (a) (b) ' (c) (d) a. 35 1/3 cents 20-25$ (S.) None 10$ b. 18 cents None None 10-20$ c. 12$ plus 10 cents 20-25$ (S.V.) None 10$ d. 27 1/3 cents None None None e. 37 1/3 cents None None None f. 27 1/3 cents None None 10 $ g* 21% , None None 10$ h. 27 l/3 cents None None 10$ i. 22 % None None 10$ j- 27 1/3 cents None 7 & 15 cents per garment (P.L.) None k. 22$ None None None 1. 37 2/3 cents None None 7$ * Abbreviations Used: S. - Silk V. - Velvet ,'P,L. - Price line 35 lack of uniformity and standardization in the pattern of increments could not be attributed, for the most part, to any inevitable objective characteristic's of apparel manu facture. They resulted largely from the fact that they were formed over a long period of time by various individ ual business agents and factory supervisors, and no attempt had ever been made to standardize or stratify their pattern. It was generally agreed in the industry that the problem of increments was responsible for the majority of piece rate differences. This was justified on the grounds that these varying degrees of allowances over the basic operation prices enabled the adaptation of a price schedule to the production conditions existing in the shop for which the increments were specified. This process of adaptation, resulting in the increment described in Tables III and IV, was largely in the hands of the Union business agents. Partly because the Union*s business agents differed in their evaluations of the need for the allowances over any basic prices, the increments specified for two different shops could cause a given production condition to result in a higher price in one shop than in the other. Thus in shop U, Table III, a garment whose basic price without allowances or increments would have been $1.00, would have its price raised to $1.25 with the fabric increment if the fabric was Dacron Chiffon. An identical 36 garment In the same shop if made of silk would not have merited any fabric increments and Its basic price would have remained $1.00, excluding other allowances. On the other hand, in shop N, (same table), the same garment in Dacron Chiffon would not have received any fabric increment and would be priced at $1.00. Yet if this garment were produced in silk, it would have had to be priced at $1.25. Table V Illustrates this situation. TABLE V PRICE COMPARISON OP SAMPLE GARMENT Shop Designation Garment Basic Price Total Fabric Price with Fabric Increment U #1.00 Dacron $1.25 Chiffon N 1.00 . Dacron 1.00 Chiffon U 1.00 Silk 1.00 N 1.00 Silk 1.25 The individual operation prices used in computing the basic prices of garments were not always Identical in all shops reporting price schedules. They tended to vary more as the operations they represented became more complex, In some cases even the prices of the simple operations varied considerably. Thus in the fourteen dress shops reporting schedules, the prices of a short split dart was as follows: % TABLE VI PRICE COMPARISON OF SAMPLE OPERATION - DART Price (cents) Number of shops 1 11 1 1/4 1 1 1/2 2 Schedule of Standard Prices, Purposes Wage Increases. When representatives of manage ment and Union negotiators agreed upon wage increases for piece workers, the provisions usually aimed at either one or both of two objectives: An increase in the minimum hourly guaranteed wage, and, (2) a raise in the effective gross average. In order to effect an increase in the gross average wages of the piece work operators, the con tracts called for an hourly wage increment to be applied and stated separately from piece work earnings. This provision assumed that direct piece work earnings would remain stable, and when combined with the hourly wage increments should result in average earnings higher than before. The agreements also specified that at the option 38 | of the employer the hourly increase could he converted to an equivalent percentage increase wbased on the wage struc ture in his shop.t f Where such conversions were performed, the ratio of time earnings to piece work earning over a period of time was calculated and expressed in a percent age figure. The periods of time used varied from shop to shop, hut generally included both peak and off-peak production seasons. The provision for the wage increase, either in its original or converted form, required the existence and employment of a standardized and stable price structure in any shop in which a raise in wages was to be effected. Such price structure had to be expressed in writing. It had to have sufficient coverage of operation to enable it to be used directly for the computation of the prices of most garments produced in the given shop. Elimination of Haggling. In the absence of a Schedule of Standard Prices the process of settling the price of a garment was often long, tedious and bitter. It would ordinarily start by the employer, or his manager, showing the garment to the Price Committee, and offering it a price that was by a considerable margin lower than he was willing to pay for it. The Price Committee would in turn demand a price considerably higher than it was ready to settle for. If the two parties could not reach 39 an agreement after some bargaining, the Union business agent would be called in. By virtue of his position as a mediator in the dispute, and because of his assumption that the price requested by the Price Committee was higher than the price the Committee was expecting, the business agent tended to quote a price lower than the one demanded by the Price Committee. By doing,so, he undermined to some degree his role as a person representing the demands of the workers. The Price Committee too was under pressure to come back from the price settling session with as high a settled price as possible. Failing to settle the price at a level agreeable to most operators, would tend to cause the latter to accuse the Price Committee of losing its identity with the operators. The operators, who sometimes contributed the money used to compensate the Committee members for their time expended in price settling sessions, would progressively reduce their contributions, if their desires were not met. A Price Schedule tended to eliminate most this difficulty. The knowledge that the price was predeter mined by the Schedule tended to reduce the expectations of both the management and the operators. The burden of an unsatisfactory price fell upon the Schedule, lifting the responsibility for it from either the Committee or 40 the business agent. i i I Costing. A Price Schedule enabled the firm to I i cost out its garment with a great degree of accuracy long before the garment was put into production. It could help the management to make decisions regarding changes in construction resulting in lower labor costs. bevel Earnings. In the absence of a Price Sched ule the settled price of a given garment depended to some extent on factors entirely unrelated to the operators* work. The firm was inclined to be more lenient with garments from which it expected a higher net return, and conversely. To a degree, the settled price of a garment could also depend on the financial position of the firm in a period just preceding the time of settlement. Equating Labor Costs. Jobbers, or regular manu facturers at the height of a production season, sent their garments to be assembled in contractors1 shops. The contractors sometimes worked on a ! f Cost Plus1 1 basis. Often, the Union business agent had to settle the price of the contracted garment. The lack of a Price Schedule caused, at times, different business agents to price the same garment at different levels. When a jobber sent out the same garment to several contractors for cost estimating, the different business agents of the respective 41 jobbers who aided them in arriving at prices for the garment were frequently responsible for significant varia tions in the respective estimates. This situation caused embarrassment to the Union and inconvenience to the con tractors. Early Settlement of Prices. In some cases, the difficulties encountered in a price settlement caused the parties involved to agree to postpone the settlement i until the production run was finished, so that they would be able to gain some more definite knowledge of the production process and perhaps have production records available for the price settlement. It was possible that the awareness on the part of the operators that their productivity was to play a part in settling the price, caused them to exert less effort and reduce their effi ciency. This was especially likely to occur when the operators expected subsequent runs of the same style. CHAPTER IV ANALYSIS OP THE SCHEDULE OP STANDARD PRICES I. SCHEDULES OF STANDARD PRICES, EXTENT OF AVAILABILITY Of the 131 firms covered in this survey, 39 used some type of a Price Schedule. Since the questionnaire used to compile the information presented in this report asked the business agents to provide a copy or a descrip tion of each Price Schedule, all Schedules reported were, at the time of reporting, in the hands of the Union busi ness agents. The managements of 22 firms were reported to have been in the possession of their respective Price Schedules. The Price Committees in 6 of the shops were employing their respective Schedules for settling garment prices. Tables VII and VIII present data regarding the extent of use of Price Schedules. It could be assumed that the business agents exaggerated the number of shops employing Price Schedules. The availability of a Price Schedule in a shop was general ly considered a reflection upon the effectiveness of the performance of the business agent of that shop. In obtaining quantative answers in regard to the availability of price schedules in the shops covered in this study, 546 400 149 - 400 537 462 348 169 412 124 124 124 o g ° e 3 5 3 ct £ 3 R> $ 0 J 0 a o ct ct o s i © © 3 09 - < ! CO CO 03 < 5 M CO 4^ 0 3 I —1 < 3 M CO r f s . H 43. cn O cn 4* O D o o 0 0 o o I 0 0 o ^ 0 0 o o I I I I 0 3 o tJ 03 tJ *d 3 © o g o C3 g © © o © 3 o © © © 3 3 ct 3 3 © ct £ © ct £ 9 ? 3 w, 3 H> © © © (p ( d 03 a a © a a •d Ct Ct 3 ct ct o o £ O £ 3 3 3 3 3 ct © © © © u 3 3 s S © © © © l —1 05 O M M 05 4 = > CO CO CO cn <3 05 4 3 » <3 M H H CO M 1 H O 00 CO 05 CO CO 00 -0 cn ■ > 3 CO 1 CO 4 3 . 1 4s - cn cn 1 1 cn CO 1 I cO I I 1 H 1 1 h ; - H CO H 1 H O CD CO 03 CO CO 00 *3 cn M CO CO CO ocn cn 03 CO 00 Cn M03 4 * . ' 05 cn GO H CO CO CO ocn cn 03 CO 00 O H 05 4 3 - 05 cn 00 M CO 4*03 - 0 05 CO cn O CO h - > cn 03 00 r f3 4 3 . oo 1 1 i o 05 05 CO M H 1 CO CO cn cn o 03 CO 00 o M 03 4 * > 05 cn GO 1 1 05 03 1 03 03 o o 4* 1 1 03 03 1 03 03 o o 4 3 . 4 3 . 1 1 03 03 1 03 03 1 o 1 1 0 1 4* 1 1 4 3 - 1 1 1 05 03 1 1 1 o o No. of Operators in Shops Reported No. of Operators Covered by Schedule Used by Employer Used by Price Committee Used by Business Agent No. of Operators in Shops Reported No. of Operators Covered by Schedule Used by Employer Used by Price Committee Used by Business Agent g S 3 t? o ® • 3 o © 5 - t > 03 O O *d t s * ® © 3 n > © S3 ct H O © 4 © No. of Operators in Shops Reported No. of Operators Covered by Schedule Used by Eknployer Used by Price Committee Used by Business Agent ^ S 3 3* o ® • 4 o © • - < > 0 3 O o *d © © t j P‘ © £ c+ M O © d © a § *d © Ct © Q • x i O & o ct H* O 3 © ct 3 * O P - OPERATORS COVERED BY SCHEDULE TABLE VIII SHOPS COVERED BY SCHEDULE Production Method C o m p l e t e G a r m e n t Se m i - S e c t i o n or V a r i e d S e c t i o n W o r k © i —i S c h e d u l e s © r —1 S c h e d u l e s © r —1 S c h e d u l e s 2 S3 P xi P P © © © © © © to ra P T O © 43 T O TO P TO © 43 TO TO P T O © 43 ft ft o XS Ph >>+3 >> a ft ft O P Ph >>43 >> S3 ft ft O P Ph >>43 >> f3 O P o CO © © P 43 p © O P O to © © P 43 42 © o p O CO © © P 43 P © P © P TO >5 •H bO p © p TO >> bO P © P TO >> •H bO CO 43 CO >> P o TJ g P <3 CO 43 CO >> P o p g P < to 43 CO >> P O •o a P P h P rH © g © Ph P i —i © g © P h P r4 © s © < M O p ^ f t T O O T O T O <Ml O < M | Ph f t T O O T O T O C m O <m Ph f t TO o TO TO O ft o XJ P O P TO O ft O P © a P O P TO O ft O P © a P o P TO © © -9 ® © © © P H © © © p w © • Pd • pH > © • P 3 • Pd • P h B ^ • © • £3 • od . P h • © • f3 o o © p O O O *H o o © P >s O O O «H o o © i >> o O O t4 S3 a > 53 p P *H p to P p > 53 p S3 *H ^ TO i s ; S3 > 53 P P *H 13 TO o P h P o Ph P O P h p o CM CQ o PM CQ O CM PQ 16 10 3 - 10 3 3 2 - 3 1 1 1 - - Manuf acturers 7 3 - 3 1 1 1 - 1 11 1 Contractors 0 7 3 - 7 2 2 1 - 2 - - Sportswear 6 5 1 - 5 13 13 9 5 10 Manuf act urers 1 - - - - 4 4 3 3 4 Contractors 5 5 1 - 5 9 9 6 2 6 Dress & Sportswear 5____ 4_____ 3 r - 4______ g 2 2 1 2 Manufacturers 2 1 1 - 1 2 1 1 1 1 Contractors 3 3 2 - 3 1 1 1 - 1 27 19 7 - 19 19 18 13 6 15 2 2 2 - 1 45 i i I the qualitative aspects of the Schedules were not taken ! into consideration. It could be assumed that in some cases | mere skeletal price structures, of most elementary cover- i age of operations, existing mostly in the memory of the reporting business agent, were listed as available and employed Price Schedules. In a memorandum dated November 14, 1957, at approximately the same time the business agents filled out the questionnaires supplying the data for tables VII and VIII, the Los Angeles Dress and Sports wear Joint Board requested the Union Engineering Depart ment to install Price Schedule in 8 shops, 4 of which were reported by the Business Agents to have employed such Schedules. The availability and use of Price Schedules as reported, could not be taken as a direct measure of their actual and effectual prevalence. If one could assume that a primary prerequisite of any effective Schedule was its being stated in writing, only the 12 written Schedules of which duplicates were available were actually employed to some degree. This number of Schedules available in writing amounted to about 9;2 per cent of all shops covered in this study. However, it was likely that the reporting business agents used one Schedule form in more than one shop, allowing for oertain adjustments or modifications carried in their minds. 46 II. SCHEDULE OP STANDARD PRICES, EXTENT OP COVERAGE An analysis of the extent of coverage (Table IX) supported the assumption that Price Schedules existed in fewer shops than the number designated by the business agents. If the minimum number of operations required for an effective Price Schedule was conservatively estimated to be half the number of possible basic operations for all shops, with the exception of skirts and pants manu facturers, where the number of required operations was estimated to be three quarters of the basic operations possible, the coverage could be quantitatively evaluated. Tables IX and X show that 41.0$ of the shops report ing Schedules had a coverage of 76$ or larger. Of the total number of shops questioned the percentage of shops so covered amounted to only 12.2$. III. SUMMARY OP PRICES The basis of this compilation the price schedules of fourteen shops employing schedules covering 76$ or more of the estimated minimum number of operations required to cover their respective production. The prices used and the prices presented do not include any Increments. While the increments were important to the total wage pic- TABLE IX PERCENTAGE OP OPERATIONS COVERED, BY PRODUCT I Garments manufactured: Dresses, Suits Estimated number of possible basic operations: 432 Estimated minimum number required for basic coverage: 216 Percentage of Minimum Operations Covered Total 1-25# 26-50# 51-75# 76-100# No. of Shops 6 2 9 17 Percentage of Shops 25.3# 11.8# 52.9# 100.0# III Garments manufactured: Sportswear, Pull Line Estimated number of possible basic operations: 704 Estimated minimum number required for basic coverage: 352 Percentage of Minimum r erations Covered Total 26-50# 51-75% 76-100# No. of Shops 5 2 2 1 Percentage of Shops 50.0# 20.0# 20.0# 10.0# 100.0# III Garments manufactured: Skirts Estimated number of possible basic operations: 46 Estimated minimum number required for basic coverage: 35 Percentage of Minimum Operations Covered Total 1-25# 36-50# 51-75# 76-100# No. of Shops 2 3 5 Percentage of Shops - - 40.0# 60.0# 100.0# 48 TABLE IX (Continued) IV Garments manufactured: Skirts and Pants Estimated number of basic operations: 64 Estimated minimum number required for basic coverage: 48 Percentage of Minimum Operations Covered Total 1-25$ 26-50$ 51-75$ 76-100$ No. of Shops 1 1 1 5 Percentage of Shops - 33.3$ 33.3$ 33.3$ 99.9$ V Garments manufactured: Blouses Estimated number of basic operations: 112 Estimated minimum number required for basic coverage: 56 Percentage of Minimum” Operations Covered Total 1-25$ 26-50$ 51-75$ 76-100$ No. of Shops 1 1 - 2 4 Percentage of Shops 25.0$ 25.0$ - 50.0$ 100. 49 TABLE X PERCENTAGE OP COVERAGE, SUMMARY Percentage of Minimum Operations Covered Total 1-25# 25-50# 51-75# 76-100# No. of Shops 12 6 5 16 39 Percentage of Shops Reporting Schedule 20.7# 15.4# 12.8# 41.0# 99.9# Percentage of 131 Shops Questioned 9.2# 4.6# 3.9# 12.2# 29.9# I 50 j ture, they did not present' a consistent pattern and there fore could not be incorporated in the compilation. The Master Schedule. The Master Schedule present ed in this study, Tables XI through XVIII, gives the modal averages of the prices reported. They had gained the greatest acceptance, they retain their original relatively simple form, would be easily comprehensible to most people within the industry, and therefore, could possibly serve as a basis for an industry-wide pricing structure. The prices stated here, as the prices used in most Price Schedules, did not represent correct prices in terms of the standard times required to perform the in dividual operations priced.^ The two relatively complete Price Schedules excluded from this compilation based their pripes largely on standard time data or time studies, and their classifications, terminology, as well as their prices were irreconcilable with those of the other fourteen Schedules used in arriving at the Master Schedule. IV. COMPARISON OP SELECTED OPERATION PRICES Because of the pattern of Increments, a direct ' * $ quotation of operation prices in the various shops could not fully illustrate the relationship between the effective XCf. post, p. 60. MASTER SCHEDULE - CUFFS Prices in Cents DESCRIPT 3D N ONE PIECE ON FOLD - EACH ONE PIECE FRENCH - EACH 2 PIECE ON FOLD - EACH 2 PIECE french - each O P E R A T I O N MAKE SEW OUT 3/h - 1 ADD- LINING 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 TRIM 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 STITCH BOTTOM 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 TURN 1A iA iA PIECE (EACH) 1/2 1/2 BACK OR TOP STITCH___ FULL 1^ 1^ 1% PART SET SANDWICH OVER .SHIRR OR PLEATS 1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2 REMARKS RE: BACK OR TOP STITCH - WHERE CUFF IS NOT SANDWICHED THE "PART WAY" BACK STITCH IS USUALLY APPLIED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SLEEVE OR ON TOP OF THE CUFF. ON "SANDWICHED" CUFFS THE BOTTOM OF THE SLEEVE IS PART OF "SANDWICHING" PRICE: 1 CENT EACH ITEM, BACK (EDGE) STITCH, ON TOP OR BOTTOM. 'ICiDR RDON BACK STITCH 1 TOP STITCH 52 TABLE XII MASTER SCHEDULE - POCKETS Prices in Cents mT.CH_PO.CKET____ Approx. to 5" Long OPERATION Sew Out Sew Out 2 Cor.-Fm. in Fac, Top Stitch - Set Edge Stitch - Set Top Stitch - One Row Sng. 3 del; 3 ll Sng. 3 sbirn^ubie 2 I 3 2^ li k 31 ' SIANT POCKET - Sew Underpart to Front: Curveo _ J 1-3/ h Straight / 1 ^ Add For Point j Backstitch: Curved 1 \ Straight ■ / „ 1 ^ Curved w. point 1-3 A ^ Straight w pnt. 1-3/U ^ Top Stitch - 1 Row Curved lu stra ight y In curved w Ibint 1-3A ( Straight w point 1 - | - ^ Sew Out to Close Add for Lining Tack, Each Notch, Each Z □ Q a < o c a K - U Double ia Double 3 2| li -ANY PATCH POCKET: Turn, Single 1/2 Turn, Double 3 /h Tack. Pocket 1 Lining, Add 1/2 1* . STOOTE WELT POCKET Each, Complete DOUBLE WELT. POCKET - Each, Complete to 12% 12% to 15 SIDE SEAM POCKET - Each, Complete i i ♦ to 5 TABLE XIII MASTER SCHEDULE - YOKES Prices in Cents VICTOR A-Rfg&g O p e r a t i o n STRAIGHT SINGLE DOUBLE CURVED SINGLE DOUBLE POINTED SINGLE DOUBLE SQUARE OR OVAL DOUBLE Join Across - 1 Stitch " " Extra Stitch " " By Sandwiching " " By Top Stitch ADD over Spot Shirr ADD over Full Shirr ADD over Pleats Join at Shoulders (2) Join at Shoulders (2) & Neck Join 2 Sides Center Seam Stay Stitch - Across Clean Fin. - Across Ribbon Cord - Ready Made 1* 1 1 i a A 2 1 1 1 1? 2 it I t It 1 3 % it I t i t 1 2 I t 1 1 1 2 I t 1 It it I t 1 3 h i t i t 1 2 I t 1 I t t 2 A 2 3t It. 1 3 b I t 1 2t. 1. 2 Single Plies (2 Halves) Folded- Each Fold Stitched across on 3 sides: on Long Side, ~ and Bolt ,top om Set Waist to Yoke Seamed or Edge Stitched 8 to 10 2. Each Fold Sewn on 3 Sides, Hotched & Turned to. Fqrm Clean Fin.Yoke - ADD 2* 3. Top Stitched,on 3 Sides - ADD 3t* U. Lining - ADD 20 V TABLE XIV MASTER SCHEDULE - TABS, FLAPS Prices in Cents T A B OPERATION < > C 3 > < SEW OUT-lpc.(Foldovei . 1 SEW OUT-2 pc It 2 2 2 TOP STITCH- 1 Row l£-2 2-2g- 2 2-2£ TOP STITCH- 2 Rows 2^*3 3-3*r 3 3 k 4 ^CTOR ARD ANY TAB: ADD FOR LINING JOIN INTO SEAM 1/2 3/4-1 PRICES ARE FOR TABS OF APPROXIMATELY UP'TO 5* IN LENGTH. £Uf_ -FLAP I J \ / L J ANY FLAPS OPERATION BACKSTITCH 1 SEW OUT - 1, pc .1 * ADD FOR LINING k SEW OUT - 2 pcs. I k Ifr 2 l i - 2 | SET: EDGE STITCH - 1 Row l i I s ONE STITCH TURN & TACK l £ TOP STITCH - 1 Row ' i f r ■ . 1 * i * 2 TOP ST ITCH-SET -1 Row l £ TOP STITCH - 2 Rows 2k 2£ 3 2k 3k TOP STITCH-SET-2 Rows 2 55 TABLE XV 5 MASTER SCHEDULE - GUSSETT, WAIST BANDjf Prices in Cents WAIST BAND - SOFT. 1 PC. JOIN TO WAISTLINE ADD FOR LINING CLEAN FINISH SEW OUT EXTENSIONS WITH POINT CURVED STRAIGHT FOLD OVER & STITCH 2 - 2J- 1 - 1* 1 - 1J - 2* 2 1 4 - - 2 PIN STITCH, ALL AROUND ' 3 - 4 BLIND STITCH, DROP STITCH 4 - 5 ATTACH 1 HANGER * TRIM & TURN EXTENSION WAIST BAND - SOFT. 2 PC (2 PLY) ADD 1* WAIST BAND - HARD. HIGH RISE BAND JOIN TO WAIST LINE 3 BACKSTITCH 1* TACK, EA. 1 BEND UNDER - FINISH ENDS 1* - 2 GUSSETTS - COMPLETE OPERATION 2 - \ Gussetts, small 2-|- Gussets, Large 2-|- Gussets, Mitered 1 Underarm Gussett with 3 Underarm points PRICE STAY STITCH NO STAY STITCH 8 10 10 10 VICTOR ARODM TABLE XVI MASTER SCHEDULE - DARTS, PLEATS, SHIRR Prices in Cents r. [ DART : | STRAIGHT | SPLIT SQUARE SHAPED TO 7W 1 1 1 1 8w~13, t | WAISTLINE. JOIN li -l£ REG. - ONE STITCH li -l£ REG. - 2 STITCHES li -li ADD FOR RIBBON, OVER PLEATS li -l£ OR OVER SHIRRING PLEAT. MAKE (INCL. SEAM WHERE PART OF PLEAT): ONE WAY jINVERTED (2) |ONE SEAM KICK, REGULAR RAISED DOUBLE, KICK, i REGULAR L RAISED BOX SHIRRING: WAIST AT SHOULDERS (2) WAIST AT WAISTLINE (EA) SLEEVE CAPS (2) BOTTOM OF SIEEVES (2) FRONT/BACK YOKE SPOT (EA) i t 1* 2 3 Uk 5k 2k 2 lb-2 2 2 ljb2 I STARVES R t CUFFS. SET (PER PAIR) SET SIEEVES - OPEN 5 CLOSED 8 JOIN REG. CUFFS - OPEN 2 \ CLOSED 3 RIBBON SIEEVES 2 RIBBON CUFFS 1 TOP STITCH SLEEVES 3 TOP STITCH CUFFS 2 LOCK CUFFS 1 BACKSTITCH CUFFS 2 VICTOR ARDON 57 TABLE XVII MASTER SCHEDULE - ZIPPER, PLACKET* SEAMS Prices in Cents .ZIPPER, PLACKET; SET ZIPPER IN FRONT OR BACK WAIST NO FACING - 5n-6" 5-6 7H-9» 6-7 WITH FACING, ADD l£-2 SET ZIPPER FROM NECK TO BELCW WAIST NO FACING 18”-22" U-15 WITH FACING, ADD 2-2^ ZIPPER PLACKET NO FACING, to 6" 4-6 7”-12” 6-10 WITH FACING, to 6” 6-10 7”-12" 8-14 SET ZIPPER LOCKED AT TOP FROM UNDERARM TO BELOW WAISTLINE 12-16 OTHER: LABEL 1 VICTOR ARDQH SEAMS. (EACH) SHOULDER 1 ADD FOR MATCHING CLEAN FINISH, ADD £ SHOULDER f SLEEVE SHORT l£ LONG OR 3/4 1^-2 SLEEVE, SHORT 1 LONG OR 3/4 l-l£ SEAM BINDING (RIBBON) SHOULDER OR SLEEVE 1 BLOUSE SEAM 1 CLN. FIN. ADD 2 SIDE f SLEEVE SEAM lJ-2 BLOUSE, SHAPED SEAM 1^- SKIRT, SINGLE SEAM 2-3 SKIRT SEAM lJ-2 PANTS' OUTSIDE SEAM l£ PANTS' CROTCH SEAM 1 PANTS' RISE OR SEAT 1 PANTS' INSIDE SEAM l£ SHORTS' OUTSIDE SEAM lj- SHAWL COLLAR: TABLE XVIII MASTER SCHEDULE - COLLARS Prices in Cents DESCRIPTION OPERATION MAKE SET SEW OUT TRIM STITCH BOTTOM TAILORED WITH PIPING ONE. PC. STRAIGHT- 1 * h 3 4 2 PC. STRAIGHT 1\ -2 k k -1' 3 4 PETER PAN 2 1 1 4 4-5 2 PC. SHAPED (TAILORED) 2 1 . 1 3 4 MANDERIN 1 1 k ' 4-5 - SEW OUT 3 - 5 TRIM - 2 __ TURN 1 _____ FULL, 3-6 ___ VICTOR ARDON LINING, ADD ______ STITCH BOTTOM 1^-2. BACK/EDGE/TOP-STITCH, SET W. PIPING 5-10 ANY COLLAR: SEW OUT ON BIAS, ADD LINING, ADD EACH NOTCH TURN PIECE, EACH BACK/EDGE/TOP-STITCH, FULL PART SANDWITCH EXCEPT AS NOTED - SHAWL COLLAR. 1 1 i * k 1*- 1 . ONE PC REG. SEW OUT POINT OR CURVE EACH \ . BACK/EDGE/TOP STITCH, POINT OR CURVE EA. 3/4 TURN POINT OR CURVE EACH J - ___. READY MADE CORDING. ADD 4 operation prices in the same shops. For example, the two shops n. and r., in Table III page 33 of this report, quoted the prices of 1 cent for the sewing of an average dart. However, if the average weekly earnings in both shops was assumed to be.$1.80 an hour, the average weekly earnings in the industry,2 the effective prices of the same dart would become: Shop r - Quoted price for dart: 1 cent Hourly wage in addition to piece work earnings: 19 1/3 cents Composition of average hourly wage: §1.607 piece rate earnings .193 time rate earnings Equivalent percentage increment to piece rates: 12$ Effective price of dart: 1.12 cents. Shop n - Quoted price for dart: 1 cent Unexplained increase: 10$, Dart price: 1.10 cents Increment based on contract wage Increases: 24$ Effective price for dart: 1.56 cents If dart sewn on silk, add: 25$, Dart price: 1.38 cents j Effective price for dart, including wage increase: 1.76 cents. 2 Area Supplement - Labor Statistics Bulletin, October, 1957, Department of Industrial Relations, State of California. By further contrast, the price of a dart (6I ! long} when based on time study was considerably less than the effec tive prices in Shops r. and n. Tables,XIX illustrates the prices of 2 types of darts and the methods of constructing these prices. TABLE XIX OPERATION PRICE CONSTRUCTED ON THE BASIS OP TIME STUDY Std. Min. Std. Min Operation Per Occ. Freq. Per Part a. Sew out 1st. or 1 dart per Pc. of Regular Fabric: Get Fabric - Fold - Position .091 l/l .091 Sew Dart .033 l/l .033 Aside on Chain - Cut Chain .032 l/l .032 Set up Work Place .360 l/36 .010 Total Std. Min. .166 Price, Each, to yield $1.80 per hour — .498 cents b. Sew out Consecutive dart on same Pc. of fabric Fold in Transport - Reposition .065 l/l .065 Sew Dart .033 l/l .033 Aside on Chain - Cut Chain .032 l/l .032 Total Std. Min. .130 Price, Each, to yield $1.80 per hour — .390 cents CHAPTER V SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS Employment of Schedules for Pricing. Of the 131 unionized garment factories manufacturing dresses and sportswear in the Los Angeles area only 39, or less than 30 percent, claimed using any systematic and standardized means of arriving at piece rates. The percentage seemed to be highest in Section Work shops, and lowest in Complete Garment shops. Of the 39 Schedules examined, only 16 had suffi cient coverage of operation detail to meet the purposes for which the Schedules were devised. This indicated that 87.8 percent of the shops, had to resort to vigorous bargaining procedures to settle the prices of all new garments, often had to postpone settlements till after the garments were put into production, and, when prices could not be settled prior to manufacture, were likely to have the reduced productivity and output of operators become a means of pressure in the process of bargaining that followed. It was likely that the managements of the majority of these shops had no accurate means of costing a garment at the time when its selling price had been determined. '6 2 : Sine© in the majority of cases the garments were at least partly manufactured to order, garment firms were often negotiating prices under the threat of a shrinking gross margin of return. This threat and the need to average earning in line with other garment manufacturing firms continuously resulted in informal agreements between management and workers, whereby the operators agreed to accept a price lower than their time and effort expended on the manufacture of the style so priced warranted, pro vided they could get a correspondingly higher price for a following style. The understanding of the reasons for the resulting fluctuation in earnings, did not eliminate the bitterness the fluctuations brought about. The atmosphere in which prices had to be settled in the absence of a relatively complete price schedule was one of constant pressures on the parties involved. The Union had encountered great difficulties in finding members that were willing to serve on price committees and in many cases even the employers were willing to relegate their duties in price settlements to the Union business agents. The use of a detailed and complete Price Schedule tended to eliminate most of these difficulties. Contract Requirements as Related to Price Settle ments. The Contracts specifically stated that piece rates be settled on the basis of Price Schedules. About 70 per cent of the Unionized firms had no provisions for such settlement and in another 17.7 percent, the provision that did exist were found inadequate to varying degrees. The Contracts, though, failed to specify whose responsi bility it was to establish Price Schedules. Of the 39 Schedules employed, only 6 were used by the Price Committees of the respective shops. This would seem to indicate that in 33 of these shops the Price Committees did not actively participate in the set tlements of prices. This again was in violation of the letter of the Contracts which required that Price Commit tees, as well as the Union business agents, be parties to piece rate settlements. The Contracts specified wage increases to piece workers. However, in the absence of a stable basic wage structure, such as was likely to result from the employ ment of an operational standard system, as specified by the Contracts, the required increases could conceivably be absorbed in a lower basic piece rate. Feasability of Schedules for Pricing. The com plete basic Schedule presented in this report, in the form of a Master Schedule, compiled from Schedules actually in use, could demonstrate the feasability of constructing and employing a complete Schedule of Standard Prices. 64 ; This Schedule does not cover specific increments. The problem of increments could also be formalized in a similar manner. That type of increments that could not be encom- ' passed in the general price Schedule, could be stated in an appendix constructed to meet the needs of individual shops. Limitations of a Schedule. The formation and maintenance of a Schedule might require such qualities and training that are beyond the capabilities of the institu- l tions and personnel involved in pricing garments. This could be a possible reason for the majority of Price Gom- mittes, and perhaps some factory managements, not having used the reported Schedules. If formal Schedules were in wide spread use in the industry, differences in prices, or in price incre ments, among the various factories could become generally known. Both the Union and the managements have been I reluctant to publicize price differences. The imperfec tions of Schedules in general, especially those stemming from inequities in prices of operation as related to the time required to perform these operations, have also caused some opposition to the general use of Schedules. Perhaps the major hinderance to the adoption of price structures based on a Schedule was the realization that it tended to stabilize wages. The rapidly growing m j i industry and the shortage of sewing machine operators in this area, have tended to cause wages to rise beyond the levels specified by the Contracts. Not only was the Union interested in this rise, but also management knew that in an area where the Union controlled only about 14 percent of the garment operators, such stabilization could not have a lasting effect. I B I B L I O G R A P H Y I BIBLIOGRAPHY A. GENERAL Agreement by and Between the California Sportswear and Dress Association, Inc. and the Los Angeles Dress and Sportswear Joint Board, ILGWU, et_ ad., Los Angeles, 1956. Agreement by and Between the California Sportswear and Dress Association, Inc. and the Los Angeles Dress and Sportswear Joint Board, ILGWU, et al., Los Angeles, 1957. Collective Bargaining Report, Vol. 2, No. 9, September, 1957 AFL - CIO. Gomberg, William. A Trade Union Analysis of Time Study. Science Research Associates, Chicago, 1948. Hannan, Watson M. The Mechanics of Sewing. Apparel Manufacturer, New York N. D. Lassiter, Edward B. ,fAn Analysis of Garment Manufacturing in the Los Angeles Area.1 1 Unpublished Master’s- Thesis in Business Administration, The University of Southern California, Los Angeles, January, 1953. Seidman, Joel, The Needle Trades. New York: Reinhart and Company, 1942. Singer Operator Training Manual for the Needle Trade. Singer Manufacturing Company, Sales Engineering Department, Form No. 3341 MT (155). Solinger, Jacob. f t A Study of Methods of Training Sewing Machine Operators for the Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industries.l f Unpublished Master’s Thesis in Business Administration, The University of Southern California, Los Angeles, June, 1947. 68 B. GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS i Br^-e^ in Support of Initial Hearing Examiner in the Matter of The California Sportswear and Dress As so- ciation, Inc., et al., Federal Wade Commission, D6cIeF~No. 6325 N. D. Case Study Data On Productivity and Factory Performance Women1s Dresses. BLS Report No. 84, U. S. Department of Labor, 1955. Handbook of California Labor Statistics, 1955-1956. State of California, Department of Industrial Relations, Division of Labor Statistics and Research, San Francisco, May, 1957. Industry Wage Studies, Job Description for Wage Studies. Apparel. Appendix C. U. S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, 1946 (Mimeographed) Area Labor Supplement Statistics Bulletin, State of California, Department of Labor Statistics, August, 1957. Wage Settlements 1957. California Union Agreements. State of California Department of Industrial Relations, Division of Labor Statistics and Research San Francisco N. D. Wage Structure. Cotton Garments, Series 2, No. 75. U. S. Department of Labor Bureau of Labor Statistics, 1949 (mimeographed) Wage Structure, Women*s and Misses* Coats and Suits, BLS Report No. 122. U. S. Department of Labor, 1957. Wage Structure. Women* s and Misses * Dresses. Series 2, No. 29. U. S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics, 1945 (mimeographed) C. MATERIAL ISSUED BY THE INTERNATIONAL LADIES* GARMENT WORKERS UNION Class Summaries, ILGWU Training Institute N. D. (Mimeographed) Enow Your Price Settlements. Dressmakers* Union Handbook For Price Settlements. (ILGWU - New York, 1956-7) Tepper, Lazare, The Women* s Garment Industry. An Economical Analysis. ILGWU Educational Department, New York, 1937. Report, Third Five Day Training School, Northeast Department ILGWU, 1956. (Mimeographed) Report of the General Executive Board to the 29th Conven- tion. International Ladies* Garment Workers * Union. ILGWU, New ^ork, 1956. Schedule of Piece Work Prices for Cotton Dresses. Prepared for the Waist and Dressmakers Joint Board, ILGWU, Philadelphia, Penn., ILGWU, New York, 1938. Trends and Prospects. Women’s Garment Industry 1953-1956, Report Presented by General Executive Board to the ILGWU, Atlantic City Convention, May, 1956. ILGWU Educational Department, New York, 1956. D. PERIODICAL AND PUBLIC ADDRESSES Frank, Bertrand. ! t Inereased Production,1 1 Western Apparel Industry, October, 1957, pp. 15, 24. ______, tt Sewing Room Piece Rates Should be Set Scienti- Fically,w Textile World, July, 1956, pp. 112, 174. Gershonson, Maurice I. **The Pacific Coast Apparel Manufacturing Industry, Its Past, Present and Future,” Ah'Address before the 21st Annual Meeting of the Pacific Coast Garment Manufacturers, Coronado, June 1, 1956. (Mimeographed) Nelson, Iris. ! t MTM Pays Off at Catalina,n Western Apparel Industry, February, 1955, pp. 14-15. Webb, Ernest B. , f 1955 Review of the California Apparel Industry,n Western Apparel Industry, March, 1956, pp• 17, 32• I i APPENDIX . 1 72 QUESTIONNAIRE Business Agent: Date: Page 1 Name of Firm: a. Jobber . b. Contractor c. Manufact. Tcircle Correct Answer) Address: This firm manufactures: a. Dresses b. Slacks, Shorts, etc. wear d. Skirts^ e. Coats_ f. g. Accessories . h. Other (What?) c. Sports Suits Check the correct iteni(s). If more than one type of garment is manufactured, number them in order of importance, for example, if main product is dresses, put the figure -1 in space following a., if it also manufactures skirts, mark the skirt space -2. Main fabrics used are: Selling price ranges of. the items you checked above, under #1 are: Type of Garment Selling Price Range (1) (2) (3) Check method of production: Complete garment_______ Section work Semi-Section work a. Method yaries b. c. If answer is "Semi-Section work" operations is done separately: Make Cuff Make Collar Darts a # ^ b • c ♦ Belts, Tabs, Flaps Set Zipper f . g. Other? . d. circle which of the Yokes d. Pockets h. Make Dinings e. Other? 73 [ Page 2 6. The total number of people employed In the shop normally ranges between _______________to_________ ; _______• Of these people the approximate number of - Do not write ’ here j a. Operators is , (____________ I b. Floor help is______________. , /— ________* I c. Pressers is______ ; _______, ( ___ d. Underpressers is________ , (________ • e. Special machine operators is________ > (_____ ________________________ f . Finishers, trimmers is______________ »----------------- ---------- - 7.. In setting prices, do you use some kind of a system: a. YES / b. NO. Does the employer use some kind of a system? j c. YES / d. NO. 1 Does the Shop Committee use some kind of a system? j e. YES / f. NO. ! By a * system1 is meant a SCHEDULE, a STITCH-RATE, etc. Your s igna ture____________ The other pages of this questionnaire deal^ with prices* supply the additional information requested to the best of your ability. 74 Pag© 3 Rewrite the name of the firms, same as on Page 1 : ________ ■ If you answered f,Yesh to any part of Question #6, Page 2, write in the value or price for each of the following operations or parts: 8. Explain what percentage, or flat allowances, are added on top of the total price as arrived at through the use of the break down you are giving: On top of each garment (such as'handling, fabric, etc.) On top of weekly payroll: (Percentages or flat allow- ance) : _______________________ _________ 9. Dart Straight Split ^ Square Average a. d. Short b. _ . e. __ h. One Way Plaat Inverted 1 1 \ One Seam kiok “ - Raised ' - Regular 1 1 Box Pleat Double kick Pleat - Raised - Regular 11. SHIRRINO: Make a ._ b. e. h. k. n. c. f. i. 1. o. r. Long c. f. i. 10. Pleat (Including seam where part of pleat) Top Stitch Short Front Waist at Shoulder a. Back Waist at Shoulder d. Front Waist at Waistline g. Back Waist at Waistline j. Sleevecap m v Bottom of Sleeve P* On Sleeve 3v Spot Shirring v. Back Yoke Y* Front Yoke XXm Tack d< j. m. p. s. Long Complete b. c . e. f . h. i. k. 1 . ' n. o . q . r. t . u. w. X . * z. ww. . yy*___ zz . ^IC TD K ARD.DM Page 4 12. WAISTLINE; Reg. Waistline - One stitch Reg. Waistline - Two Stitches Add for "Ribbon Add for OVer Pleats Add for Over Shirring 13. SLEEVES & CUFFS: Set Sleever - Open - Cloie Join Reg. Cuff-Open -Closed Lock Cuff' Backstitch Cuff 14. ZIPPER & PLACKET; Seam a. d. e ._ h.__ kv__ J*__ a. b. c. d. e. f. Ribbon Top Stitch b. c. f. g. Set Zipper on Front or Back Waist; a. No facing (Length? ") (Length? ") b. With facing (Length^ f , T~ (Length? Set Zipper from neck to below Waist. c. tfo facing (Length? ) . d. With facing (Length? ”1 Zipper Placket; e. No facing (Length?___) _____ > (Length? ) f. With facing (Length? ) (Length? ) __ Set Zipper locked at top from under arm to below waist line g. You may use the margins or the back of these sheets Tor any additional information. V IC T O R ARDOW 76 V IC T O R A R D O H Page 5 15.' SEAMS: Seam Cl< Shoulder - Reg. a. b . Add for matching One Shoulder & Sleeve' c. Short d. e . Long or 3/4 Sleeve seam top or bottom f . g- short h. i. long or 3/4 J. k. Seam binding (ribbon) Shoulder 1 . Long Sleeve m. Short Sleeve n. Side blouse seam o . p. Side blouse and Sleeve Blouse seam - straight q* r . front or back s . t. Blouse seam - shaped u. V . Skirt seam w • ^ X . Pant’s outside seam y. z. Pant’s crotch seam * ±t. uu. Pant’s rise or seat •vv. ww. Short’s side seam X X . yy- Pant’s inside seam yz. zz. 16. CUFF: Operation cuff - each B. One piece French cuff - each C. Two piece regular cuff - each D. Two piece French cuff - each Make Bk. St, Set ^ „ p 3 o £ CD CO a . Sew Out cn Bias p O faO •ri ■OfJ r d^-« < W c p > Each Notch E •H P e oo PP •HP P O cOPQ mP P - . E - * f | g £ 1 O C O C D C D O 0 ) •H a, h H r “* s . i >5 & P P 0 5 ( X , j V s Sandwich Tailored H Setting £ •H Pa ♦H P-. A P •H ■ m , ’ * i . . . . . ■ i — L —- - 77 Page 6 17. COLLAR: OPERATION P. One piece Straight Collar Or, Two piece Straight Collar H. Peter Pan Collar I. Two Piece Shaped Tailored Collar J\ Mandarin Collar K. Shawl Collar L. Make -p -P 00 2 G cO o t iC o 0*H * h G CQ •H & £ TJ G <D ©C TS*H CO COO a h c X! ■ X !B oo o p > - p -p «H-P o -P o Sz; C O P Q X! B c o G o •Hi. COG C O F - H cox W 6h d e f c u s g XI o GO O <D O < D •H Pu, Set s J 3 * i ! ■P i * * 1 C O j P L , X o •H £ 73 C G O CO Sew Out Topstltch Turn M. Regular Add for stitch _________ _ _________ Collar Add for point ' _________ _______ Add for curve ' ______ V IC T O R AWDOM 78 Page 7 18. YOKES: V IC T O R A R D Q N a, b. \ f . OPERATION Join Across 1 Stitch Join Across Extra Stitch Join Across by Sand-p wiching Join Across by Top- stitching -Add Over Shirr Ctver Shirr Over h, i. 5• k, 1, m. Spot -Add Pull -Add Pleat Join at Shoulders and Neck Join two Sides Center Seam- Stay Stitch Across Clean Seam Across n. Ribbon o. Cord p. Tack - . Each q. Notch - Each STRAIGHT ! CURVED j SQUARE TPOINTED ’ OVAL r - ' V A y.A , \ ‘ \ V i i ■ '... 1 ■ ■ : i Single-A; Singled) Singly SingleAjSingle Dbl.B Dbl.B i.Dbl.el Dbl.B Dbl.B Ply 1 Ply ! Ply 1 Ply 1 Ply A | B 1 A i B ! A | ■ B i A B » A 1 B | i ! * [ ' 1 I .5 j 1 | j ! : L 1 | ! i i 1 I | ! ; | i j I f i i i -i ! ...1 _ j \ I i i . i I ! ■■■ i' i i i i ! I I 1 i _ ! ! 1 I _ 1_ i | __ I . * i r i 1 1 1 < / 1 i i ; • j i * FACING & FLY: — r—- Part of Faclng7F3.y ~~ ~~ ' j Fac.Top to Waist Fly Top to Waist . Fac. Top to Bot. Fly Top to Bot. Fac.Bot. of Slve. Facing! Fly Slve I Zipper Slit 1 r Fac. or Fly Skirt 1. 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 a. Join with one Stitch •••••••••• | - < - - - b. Join - Lining .... ' 1 ' c . Join to Neck Facing- .......... • d. Join to Shoulders e. Clean Finish ••••,' ’ f. Back Stitch l/2 to 3/4 ...... Back Stitch - Ful1 ............ V ■g* h. Sew Out & Turn Bottom ...... i. Piece - Each ..... 'J. k. Tack - E a c h ...... " - Notch - Each ..... 1. Trim ................ m. Turn ............. n. Ribbon ......... * D £ D „ . . ■ O q VIC TO R A R D O N * 00 80 Page 9 20. - WAIST BANDS: A. SOFT WAIST BAND a. Join to waistline _______ *b. Add for Lining ______ c. Clean Finish . ______ d. Sew Out Extensions: d.l With'Point_______________ _ d. 2 Curved______________ _______ d.3 Straight _ e. Fold over and Stitch: e.l Pin Stitch_______ _______ e.2 Blind Stitch ________, f. Attach 1 Hanger ' g- - _________ ________ B. HARD WAIST BAND a. Join to Waistline . b. Back Stitch___________ ________ c. Tack - Each___________ ________ d. Bend Under - Finish Ends________________ e. ' _____ 21. TABS: I i ! / \ i O V OPERATIONS A B C D a. Sew Out-1 Pc(FoldOver) b. Sew Out - 2 Pcs. c. Add for Lining d. Top Stitch-One Row e. Top Stitch-Two Rows f. Join Into Seam vrcrnS Ar?DDN 81 — i - ; , I ■ : 22. FLAPS: Page 10 OPERATIONS a. Sew Out - 1 Pc b. Sew Out - 2 Pcs c. Add for Lining d. Backstitch e. Edge Stitch-One Row f. 'Top Stitch-One Row g. Top Stitch-Two Rows h. k. One Stitch-Turn Over and Tack 1. Top Stitch-Set-1 Row m. Top Stitch-Set-2 Rows B D E 23. GUSSETT - COMPLETE: Stay Stitch No Stay Stitch a. 2-i Gussetts Small b. 2-J Gussetts Large c. 2-s Gussetts Mitered d. 1 Underarm Gussett with 3 underarm Points a* c. e. b. d.' f. h. V IC T D fi A R D Q N 82 , Page 11 24. POCKETS: , _ V1DTOQ ARD0 f3 PATCH POCKET OPERATIONS a. Sew Out b. Sew Out 2 cor-Pm In.Fac. c . Turn d. Top Stitch - Set e. Edge Stitch - Set f. Top Stitch - 1st Row g. Top Stitch - 2nd Row h. Tack-Each i. Clean Seam j. Ribbon k. Lining 1. A. SINGLE WELT POCKET: a. Sew Underpart to Front b. Sew Out to Close c. Join Welt Ihcing to Fabric d. Backstitch Welt Facing to Fabric e. Splice Welt f. Clean Finish g. Ribbon h. Tack - Each B. DOUBLE WELT POCKET: A Single B.Double C Single D Double E Single F Double G Single! I Single! H Double! J Double I ^ /' J — — J A B C D E F G H I J . ■ 1 \ ■ i ■ i i i * i i .. - 1 - _ ! ......... ■ 1 ! ■ ! ■ a. SpliCQ Welt b. Turn & Tack Tongues 85 Page 12 C. SLANT POCKET: a. Sew Underpart to Front: al Curved__________________________________ a2 Straight_______________________ ________ a3 Curved with Point___________ _______ a4 Straight with Point________________ . b. Backstitch: bl Curved_________________________________ b2 Straight j J b3 Curved with Point___________ _______ b4 Straight with Point, ________ c. Top Stitch - 1 Row: cl Curved_________________________________ c2 Straight_______________________ _______ c3 Curved with Point___________ _____ _ c4 Straight with -Point , , d. Sew out to Close_________________________ e. Add for Lining___________________ ______ _ f . Tack - Each______________________________ g. Notch - Each_____________________________ h. D. SIDE SEAM POCKET: a. Attach i- pocket to Back b. Attach -J pocket to P’ront c. Backstitch d. Position - Sew to Close e. 25. MISCL: a. Label b. Size Ticket c. Style Ticket (If Price Combined Indicate by Drawing Line) d. Change Thread e. Match Fabrics f. Stripe ' _________________ _ g. Plaid __________________________ VJCTO& AROdN 84 10-18-57 BEFORE A SCHEDULE IS INTRODUCED - - SOME OF THE QUESTIONS AND. THOUGHTS IN PEOPLE’S MINDS:- IN OPERATORS’ MINDS; - Will the Schedule reduce my earnings? - Is our Schedule going to be just a copy of the one they have next door or the one I used to have in New York? - Is the special quaL ity required by our boss going to be paid for? - How is anybody else going to know just how hard that style was? - Are we going to have the same basic prices for all price lines? - Is our Price Committee going to be able to convince our fellow- wor leers that the price is right? - Is the Schedule going to cut out the. fighting over prices? - Are we now going to know in advance the price of each garment IN THE MIND OF THE BOSS: ' - . - Knowing in advance what I have to pay for the garment will make it easier for me to price it for sale® - If I have to pay for each operation I am going to design the garment with as few and as simple operations as possible* - Maybe now I’ll have to fight less with the girls. . - Perhaps I won’t have as many troubles with the Union Business IN THE MTM) ~0F THE~glToN: 1 ~ - The shop has a Contract. It states: "The piece rate settlement, including settlements of piece rates for pressers, shall be established on an operational standard system established for that particular shop." - We have to do something about the constant complaints under the present method of settling prices, - Wo would like to see peaceful relations in all Union shops. - Tho Schedule will help support a now and inexperienced price committee. - When pay raises are agreed upon, it will be simpler to apply we are working on? Agent. them. K * J L VICTOR ARDQN 85 /^>h/ / //^ $Cy/cOt/L(F /s P/PcFc*/?'^' O J CpC/PpTtzo To Ya<0 0X / £ . O v t f i / t : > V < Z sa/ < Y £ /a’ cnor’c A '& r/o ^ s w/ t# tm< ~ /<. < <*/c/ fOtJe&T/aA/ fi£ '* T A , (Vcf C T X P M J P C I — ’ r*>3o<jr / ? DoT^e* dM/wp/v/y W/z/cp Y jO Po yc yvo/ece / ) o*/ Pxp wmic/ s Mrit) SP tj sc* cro# r p i( f O P P rt T t E . 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Abstract (if available)

Abstract Statement of the problem. The purpose of this study was, (1) to gather and present a complete basic piece rate structure for single needle operations

Linked assets

University of Southern California Dissertations and Theses

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Asset Metadata

Creator Ardon, Victor (author)

Core Title Piece rate structure in the unionized dress and sportswear industry in the Los Angeles area

School School of Commerce

Degree Master of Business Administration

Degree Program Business Administration

Publisher University of Southern California (original), University of Southern California. Libraries (digital)

Tag apparel,Clothing,economics, labor,Labor,manufacturing,OAI-PMH Harvest,wages

Place Name California (states), economic regions: Los Angeles (geographic subject), USA (countries)

Language English

Contributor Digitized by ProQuest (provenance)

Advisor Highman, Arthur (committee chair), Libby, Phillip A. (committee member)

Permanent Link (DOI) https://doi.org/10.25549/usctheses-m4

Unique identifier UC11263954

Identifier EP43520.pdf (filename),usctheses-m40 (legacy collection record id),usctheses-c20-146972 (legacy record id),usctheses-m4 (legacy record id)

Legacy Identifier EP43520.pdf

Dmrecord 146972

Document Type Thesis

Rights Ardon, Victor

Type texts

Source University of Southern California (contributing entity), University of Southern California Dissertations and Theses (collection)

Access Conditions The author retains rights to his/her dissertation, thesis or other graduate work according to U.S. copyright law. Electronic access is being provided by the USC Libraries in agreement with the au...

Repository Name University of Southern California Digital Library

Repository Location USC Digital Library, University of Southern California, University Park Campus, Los Angeles, California 90089, USA