Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, 1854

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Content ,Q F. Cathn-wood. GENERAL V IEW OF PALE?-iQUE,-Ji'n,11ll1p1cce. INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IY CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS, AND YUCATAN. BY THE LATE J O H N L L O Y D S T E P H E N S. mlrifh nunttr.crns <!fogrnhings. REVISED FROM TIIE LA.TEST AMEltICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS, BY FREDERICK CATHERWOOD. LONDON: ARTHUR HALL, VIRTUE & CO. 25, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1854. LONDON: R. CLA ,, PRINTER, BREAD STREET IllLL, PREFACE. IN preparing the present vV ork for publication in a cheap form, and which, although it has been favourably received by the British Public, has never before been printed in England, I have not omitted any of the Illustrations which appear in the American Edition, and have given some additional ones, which are now published for the first time. The Illustrations are all re-engraved from the Original Drawings and Sketches, and the greatest attention has been paid to make them accm-ate, The reader will thus have the entire discoveries and antiquarian researches as at first presented, and the material wherewith to form a correct judgment of their character and importance. I have found it necessary to curtail a portion of the narrative written by :M:r. Stephens, with a view of condensing the whole into a single volume; but those parts only are omitted which A2 LV PREFACE. appeared to me of less interest, as not being connected with the original, and, I may say, only object of our journey, an Exploration of the Ruined Cities of Central America, the appointment of Mr. Stephens as Special Confidential Agent from the United States to Central America, having taken place but a very short time previous to our leaving, and after all our arrangements were completed. Should this volume be favournbly received, it will be followed by a continuation of our travels in Yucatan in the years 1841, 1842. F. CATHERWOOD. LONDON, Feb. 1854. PORTRAIT OF MR. STEPHENS. ( Prom a. Dajuerreot.yp"'.) BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE. A SIIORT biographical notice of my late fellow-traveller may not be uninteresting to the readers of the present volume. Mr. John Lloyd Stephens, the second son of Mr. Benjamin Stephens, was born at Shrewsbury in the State of New Jersey, in the United States of America, in the year 1805. Until the age of thirteen, Mr. Stephens studied at the school of Mr. Nelson, who, although blind, is described as an admirable teacher of the classics. For four years l\fr. Stephens pursued his studies at Columbia College, New York, afterwards entered a law school, and when of age was admitted to the practice of the legal profession. In the year 1834, the state of Mr. Stephens's health rendering it necessary for him to travel abroad, he visited many of the countries of Europe, extending his tour to Egypt and Syria. On his return to New York, he published "Incidents of Travel in Egypt, Arabia, Petrrea, and the Holy Land," followed very shortly by " Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russia, and Poland." These works were received with great favour, and were ve.ry extensively read in the United States; and in this cotmtry have been several times reprinted, establishing Mr. Stephens's reputation as an excellent and agreeable writer of Travel and Narrative. In 1839 Mr. Stephens and myself made armngements for a tour in Central America, with a view to the examination of the remains of ancient art said to exist in the dense forests of those tropical regions. Our preparations were scarcely completed, when l\fr. Leggett, who was on the point of setting out as United States Minister for that country, died very suddenly, and upon application for it, l\Ir. Stephens immediately received the appointment. We had some misgivings lest it should interfere with our antiquarian pursuits, but l\fr. Stephens contrived, as the reader will find, to combine the chase after a Government with a successful hunt for ruined cities. Our journey occupied about seven or eight months of the years 1839 and 1840. BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICE. The results of our researches were published in 184J. In the autumn of that year, we resumed our travels, and explored the Peninsula of Yucatan, and in 1843 a second work was brought out, After our last visit to Yucatan, we were urged to pursue the researches so successfully carried on in Central America by a journey to Peru, and Mr. Prescott, . the admirable historian of that country, was of opinion that much useful information would thereby have been elicited. Mr. Stephens was, however, disinclined to undertake so distant an expedition, and was confirmed in this resolve by my being obliged to absent myself for several years on a professional engagement in the West Indies; he therefore remained in New York, and undertook the formation of the first American Ocean Steam Navigation Company, which in the end has proved highly successful. He next visited the Isthmus of Panama, with the view of forming a Railway across the narrow but difficult neck of land that separates the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. A Company "ll'as formed, of which he subsequently became the President, and a concession for the line was obtained from the Government of New Grenada. The necessary surveys were made, and the works began in 1850.* Having completed my engagement in the West Indies, I rejoined Mr. Stephens to assist in his great enterprise of spanning the Isthmus with a road of iron, and took charge of the works while he made a second journey to Santa Fe de Bogota, the capital of New Grenada. We expected to meet in a few months, but Mr. Stephens's health, already much shattered by exposure in tropical regions, and mine still more 80 by a seven months' residence in one of the most unhealthy climates in the world, separated us for nearly two years; :Mr. Stephens going to New York to recruit his strength, and I to California for the same object. Subsequently Mr. Stephens returned to the Isthmus, and by long and incautious exposure in that deadly climate in forwarding the interests of the Railway Company, brought on a disease which terminated fatally in the autumn of 1852. As his fellow-traveller and intimate friend, I may be permitted to bear testimony to his kindly disposition, and the many excellent qualities of head and heart which endeared him to a large circle of friends and connexions. F. CATHERWOOD. * It is confidently expected that the Panama railway will be completed by the end of 1855, and will become the favourite route to Australia, as well as to California. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. rAGE DEPARTURE-The Yoyage-Arrival at Oalize-Mixing or Colours-Government HouseColonel l\11Donald-Origin of Balize-Negro Schools-Scene in a Court-Room-Law without Lawyers-The Barracks-Excursion in a Pit-Pan-A Beginning of HonoursHonours accumulating-Departure from Balize-Sweets of Office • . • • • • • • . CHAPTER II. Every one for himself-Travellers' Tricks-Puenta Gorda-A Visit to the Carib IndiansA Carib Crone-A Baptism-Rio Dolce-Beautiful Scenery-Y,...abal-Reception of the Padre-A Barber in Oflice--A Band of " Invinciblcs "-Parties in Central America-A Compatriot-A Grave in a ~~oreign Land -Pre1mrations for the Passage of 4 ' the Mountain" -A Road not Macadamized-Perils by the Way-A well-spiced Lunch-The :Mountain passed • • • • • • • • • • , • • • • • • • • • • . • • • • • • • • 11 CHAP'l'ER III. A Canoni.go-How to roast a Fowl-Extempore Shocmaking-Motag-ua River-Beautiful Scenc-Cro~sing the River- The Luxury of Water-Primitive Costumes-How to make Tortillas-Costly Timbcr-Gualan-Opprcuive Heat-Shock of an Earthquake-A Stroll through the Town-A troublesome Muleteer-A Lawsuit-Important Negotiations-A Modern Bona Dea-How to gain a Husband-A Kingdom of FJora--Zacapa-Making free ,vith a Host • • • • • • • , • • • • • • • • . • . • . . , • • • • • 28 CHAPTER IV. Purchasing a Bridle-A School and its Regulations-Conversation with an Indian-Chiqnimula-A Church in Ruins-A Veteran of the French Em1lire-St. Stcphanos-A Land of 'Mountains-Au Affair with a Muleteer-A deserted Village-A rude .Assault-ArrestJn1prison n1cnt-Releasc . . . . • . • • . , . . • . . . • . . • • , • • 40 Vlll CONTENTS, CHAPTER V. PAG& An Indian Funeral-Copan River-Woman'& Kindness-Hacienda of San Antonio-Strange Customs-A :Mountain of Aloes-The State of Honduras-Vil1age of Copan-An ungracious Host-,Vall of Copan-History of Copan-First View of the Ruins-Vain Speculations-Applications for Medicine-Search for an Abode-A sick ,voman-Plagues of a Muleteer-An unpleasant Situation-A Thunder-storm-Thoughts of buying Copan •••..• , .. , .. , , , ••.• , ..•.••••.• 50 CHAPTER VI. How to begin-Commencement of Explorations-Interest created by these Ruins-Visit from the Alcalde-Vex.atious Suspicions-A welcome Visitor-Letter from General Cascara-Buying a City-Visit from Don Gregorio's Family-Distribution of lvfodicines 70 CHAPTER VII. Survey of the Ruins-Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo-l'heir Situation -Their Extent-Plan of Survey-Pyramidal Structures-Rows of Death's HeadsRemarkable Portrait-" Idols "-Character of the Engravings-Ranges of TerracesA Portrait-Courtyards-Curious Altar-Tablets of Hieroglyphics-Gigantic HeadStone Quarries-More Applicants for Medicine-" Idols" and Altars-Buried ImageMaterial of the Statues-Idols originally painted-Circular Altar-Antiquity of Copan • 79 CHAPTER VIII. Separation-An Adventure-Copan River-Don Clementino-A ,vedding-A Supper-A Wedding Ball-Buying a Mule-The Sierra-View from the top-Esquipulas-The Cura-Hospitable Reception-Church of Esquipulas-Responsibility of the Cura-1\.Jountain of Quezaltapeque-A narrow Escape-San Jacinto-Reception by the Padre-A Village Fete-An Ambuscade-Motagua River-Village of Santa Rosalia-A Death Scene • • • • • • , • , • • • , , • , , , 98 CHAPTER IX. Chimalapa-The Cabildo-A Scene of Revelry-Guastatoya-A Hunt for Robbers•-Approach to Guatimala-Bea.utiful Scenery- Volcanoes of Agua aud Fuego-First View of the City-Entry into the City-First Jmpressions-The Diplomatic Residence-Parties in Central America-Murder of Vice-President Flores-Political State of Guatimala-An embarrassing Situation-The Constituent Assembly-Military Police • . . . • • . . 111 CHAPTER X. Hacienda of Naranjo-Lazoing-Diplomatic Correspondence-Formu1as-Fete of La Concepcion-Taking the Black Veil-A Countrywoman-Renouncing the \Vorld-Fireworks, etc.-Procession in Honour of the Virgin-Another Exhibition of Fireworks-A fiery Bull-Insolent Soldiery . . . . . . . , . , , . . , , , , , , . , , , • 125 CHAPTER XI. The Provisor-News of the Day, how published in Guatimala-Visit to the Convent of La Concepcion-The Farewell of the Nun-Carrera-Sketch of his Life-The Cholera-Insurrections-Carrera heads the Insurgents- His Appearance in Guatimala-Capture of the City-Carrera triumphant-Arrival of Morazan-Hosti1ities-Pursuit of Carrera-His Defeat-He is again uppermost-Interview with Carrera-His Character • . . . . • 134 CONTENTS, CHAPTER XII. ix PAGE Party to Mixco-A Scene of Pleasure-Procession in Honour of the Patron Saint of Mix co -Fireworks-A Bombardment-Smoking Cigars-A Night-Drawl-Suffering and Sorrow -A Cockfight-A Walk in the Suburbs- Sunday Amusements-Return to the City • • 153 CHAPTER XIII. Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean-San Lucas-Mountain Scenery-El Rio Pensativo-La Antigua-Account of its Destruction-An Octogenarian-The CathedralSan Juan Obispo-Santa :Maria-Volcano de Agua-Ascent of the Mountain-The Crater -A lofty Meeting-place-The Descent-Return to La Antigua-Cultivation of Cochineal -Classic ' Ground-Ciudad Vieja-lts Foundation-Visit from Indians-Departure from Ciudad Vieja-First Sight of the Pacific-Alotenango-Volcan del Fuego-EscuintlaSunset Scene-Masagua-Port_of Istapa-Arrival at the Pacific . • • • • . • • • • 161 CHAPTER XIV. The Return-Hunt for a Mule-Overo-Masagua-Escuintla-Falls of San Pedro 'Martyr1\fichatoyal River-Village of San Pedro-A Major-Domo-San Cristoval-AmatitanA roving American-Entry into Guatimala-Letter from Mr. Catherwood-Christmas Eve -Arrival of Mr. Catherwood-Plaza de Toros-A Bullfight-The Theatre-Official Business-The Aristocracy of Guatimala-State of the Country- New Year's Day-Ferocity of Party • • , . • • • • . . . , . . • • . • • . • • • . • • • • . . 178 CHAPTER XV. Hunt for a Government-Diplomatic Difficulties-Departure from Guatimala-Lake of Amatitan-Attack of Fever and Ague-Overo-[stapa-A French Merchant Ship-Port of Acajutla-lllness-Zonzonate-The Government found-Visit to the Volcano of JzalcoCourse of the Eruptions-Descent from the Volcano • • , • . • . • . • . • . . 189 CHAPTER XVI. Sickness and l\Iutiny-Illness of Captain Jay-Critical Situation-Rough Nursing-Dolphins -Succession of Volcanoes-Gulf of Nicoya-Harbour of Caldera-Another PatientHacienda of San Felippe-Mountain of Aguacate-11 Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold Amalgamation Machine "-Gold Mll1es-View from the Mountain-top • . • . . . . 199 CHAPTER XVII. La Garita-Alajuela-A friendly People-Heredia-Rio Segund~Cofr'ee Plantations of San Jose-The Sacrament for the Dying-A happy Meeting-Travelling EmbarrassmentsQuarters in a Convent-Seii.or Carillo, Chief of State-Vicissitudes of Fortune-Visit to Cartago-Tres Rios-An unexpected Meeting-Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago-Tbc Crater-View- of the two Seas-Descent-Stroll through Cartago-A Burial-Another Attack of Fever and Ague-A Vagabond-Cultivation of Coffee . • • • • • • • . 208 CHAPTER XVIII. Departure for Guatimala-Esparza-'fown of Costa Rica-The Barranca-Wild SceneryHacienda of Arnnjuez-ltiver J.agartos-Cerros of Collito-Herds of Deer-Santa RosaDon ,Juan JosC Bonilla-An Earthquake- A Cattle l<'ann-Bagases-Guanacaste-An agreeable Welcome-Belle of Guanacaste-Pleasant Lodgingij-Cordilleras-Volcanoes of Rll1con and Orosi-Hacienda of San Teresa-Sunset View-The Pacific again . • . . . 220 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIX. PAGE Visit to the Volcano of Masaya-Village of Masaya-Lake of l\fasaya-Nindiri-Ascent of the Volcano-Account of it-The Crater-Descent into it-Volcano of Nindiri-Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest-Return to Masaya-Another CountrymanManagua-Lake of Managua-Fishing-Beautiful Scenery-Mateares-Questa del Relax -Nagarotis-Crosses-A Gamekeeper-Pueblo Nuevo . . . . . . . . . . . • . 231 CHAPTER XX. Beautiful Plain-Leon-Stroll through the Town-Baneful Effects of Party Spirit-Scenes of Horror-Unpleasant Intelligence-Journey continued-A fastidious Beggar-Chinandega-Gulf of Conchagua-Visit to Realcjo-Cotton Factory-Harbour of Realejo-El Viejo-Port of Naguiscolo-lmportance of a Passport-Embarking Mules-A BungoVolcano of Coseguina-Eruption of 1835-La Union. . . • . . . . . . . . . . 239 CHAPTER XXI. Journey to San Salvador-A ne,v Companion-San Alejo-\Var Alarms-State of San Salvador-River Lempa-San Vicente-Volcano of San Vicente-Thermal Springs-Cojutepeque-Arrival at San Salvador- Prejudice against Foreigners-Contributions-PressGangs-Vice-President Vigil-Taking of San l\Iiguel and San Vicente-Rumours of a March upon San Salvador-Departure from San Salvador-La Barranca de GuaramalYolcano of lzalco-Depredations of Rascon-Zonzonate-News from Guatimala-Journey continued-Aguisalco-Apeneca-1\fountain of Aguachapa-Subterranean Fires-Aguachapa-Defeat of l\Iorazan-Confusion and Terror . . . . . . • • • . • . . . 21H1 CHAPTER XXII. Approach of Carrera's Forces-Terror of the Tnhabitants-Their Flight-Surrender of the Town-Ferocity of the Soldiery-A Bulletin-Diplomacy-A Passport-A Breakfast-An Alarm-The \Vidow Padilla-An Attack-Defeat of Carrera's Forces- The Town taken by General l\lorazan-His Entry-The \Vidow's Son-Visit to General Morazan-His Appearance, Character, etc,-Plans deranged . . . . • • . . • • . • . . . . • 203 CHAPTER XXIII. Visit from General 1\Iorazan-End of his Career-Procuring a Guide-Departure for Guatimala-Fright of the Peo1,Ie-The Rio Paz-Hacienda of Pamita-A fortunate EscapeHacienda of San JosC-An awkward Predicament-A kind Host-Rancho of HoctillaOratorio and Leon-Rio de los Esclavos-The Village-Approach to Guatimala-Arrival at Guatimala-A Sketch of the Wars-Defeat of Morazan-Scene of :Massacre . . . . 275 CHAPTER XXIV. Ruins of Quirigua-Visit to them-Los Amates-Pyramidal Structure-A colossal HeadA n Altar-A Collection of l\Ionuments-Statues-Character of the Ruins-A lost CityP urchasing a ruined City • . . • • . . . . . • • • • • . . . • • • . . 291 • . ,,,, l CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER XXV. PAGE Reception at the Government House-The Captain in Trouble-A Change of CharacterArrangements for Journey to Palenc1ue-Arrest of the Captain-His Release-Dangers in Prospect-Fearful State of the Country-Last Interview with Carrera-Departure from Guatimala-A Don Quixote-Ciudad Vieja-Plain of El Vieja-Volcanoes, Plains, and Villages - San Andres Isapa-Dangerous Road-A Molino-Journey continued-Barrancas-Tecpan Guatimala-A noble Church-A sacred Stone-The ancient CityDescription of the Ruins-A Molino-Another Earthquake-Patzum-A Ravine-Fortifications- Los Altos-Godines- Losing a good Friend-Magnificent Scenery-San Antonio -Lake of Atitan • . • • . . . • • • • • . , • • , . . , • • • • • . 298 CHAPTER XXVI. Lake of Atitan-Conjertures as to its Origin, &c.-A Sail on the Lake-A dangerous Situation-A lofty Mountain Range-Ascent of the Mountains-Commanding View-Beautiful Plain-An elevated Village - Ride along the Lake-Solola-Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiche-Scenery on the Road-Barrancas-San Thomas-Whipping Posts-Plain of Quiche-The Village - Ruins of Quiche- Its History -Desolate Scene-A facetious Cura-Description of the Ruins-Plan-The Royal Palace -The Place of Sacrifice-An Image-Two Heads, &c.-Destruction of the Pa1ace recent-An Arch .. . . . . • . 319 CHAPTER XXVII. Interior of a Convent-Royal Bird of Quiche-Indian Languages-The Lord's Prayer in the Quiche Language-Numerals in the same-Church of Quiche-Indian SuperstitionsAnother lost City-Tierra de Guerra-The Aborigines-Their Conversion to Christianity -They were never conquered-A living City-Indian Tradition respecting this CityProbably has never been visited by the Whites-Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise-Departure-San Pedro-Virtue of a Passport-A difficult Ascent-Mountain Scenery-Totonicapan-Au excellent Dinner-A Country of Aloes-" River of Blood"-- Arrival at Quezaltenango . . . • . . . . . . . • . . . . . . . • . • . 339 CHAPTER XXVIII. Quezaltenango-Account of it-Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity-Appearance of the City-The Convent-Jnsurrection-Carrera's March from Quezaltenango-His Treatment of the Inhabitants-Preparations for Holy Week-The Church-A Procession -Goorl Friday-Celebration of the Resurrection-Opening Ceremony-The Crucifixion -A Sermon-Descent from the Cross-Grand Procession-Church of Calvario--The case of the Cura-\Varm Springs of Almolonga . • . . • • . • . . . . . • , . . 348 CHAPTER XXIX. Journey continue(l-A Mountain Plain-Lost Guirles-A trying Moment-Aguas Calientes -A magnificent View-Gold Ore -San Sebastiano - Gueguetenango-Sierra Madre - A huge Skeleton - The Ruins-Pyramidal Structures-A Vault-Mounds- A weJcome A(ldition-Interior of a l\Iound-Vases-Asccnt or tile Sierra Madre-Buena Vista-The Desceut-Todos Santos-San l\Jartin-San Andres Petapan-A Forest on Fire-Suffering of the l\lules from Swarms of Flies-San Antonio Guista . • . • . . . . . . . . 360 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXX. Comfortable Lodgings -J ourr,ey continued-Stony Road - Beautiful River_ Suspensio~ AGE Bridge-The Dolores-Rio Lagertero-Enthusiasm brought clown-Another BridgeEntry into Mexico-A Bath-A solitary Church-A Scene ofBarrenness-ZapoloutaComitan-Another Countryman-More Perplexities-Official Courtesy-Trade of Conli.tan -Smuggling-Scarcity of Soap , • , • , . . . , • , , • . • • . • • • . 373 CHAPTER XXXI. Parting-Sotana-A Millionaire-Ocosingo-Ruins-Beginning of the Rainy Season-A Female Guide-Arrival at the Ruins-Stone Figures-Pyramidal Structures-An Arrh -A Stucco Ornament- A Wooden Lintel-A curious Cave-Buildings, &c.-A Causeway -1\Iore Ruins:-Journey to Palenque-Rio Grande-Cascades - Succession of Villages -A Maniac-The Yahalon-Tumbala-A wild Place-A Scene of grandeur and sublimity -Indian Carriers-A steep Mountain-San Pedro • • • • . • • . • , . . . . 382 CHAPTER XXXII. A wild Country-Ascent of a Mountain-Ride in a Silla-A precarious Situation-The Descent-Rancho of Nopa-Attacks of :Mosquitoes-Approach to Palenque-Pasture Grounds-Village of Palenque-A crusty Official-A courteous Reception-Scarcity of Provisions-Sunday-Cholera-The Conversion, Apostasy, and Recovery of the Indians -River Chacamal-The Caribs-Ruins of Palenque • • . . . • . • . . . . . • 394 CHAPTER XXXIII. Preparations for visiting the Ruins-A Turn-out-Departure-The Road-Rivers Micol and Otula-Arrh·al at the Ruins-The Palace-A Feu-de-joie-Quarters in the Palace-Inscriptions by former Visitors -The Fate of Beanham - Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque-Visit of Del Rio-Expedition of Dupaix-Drawings of the present 1VorkFirst Dinner at the Ruins-1\fammoth Fireflies-Sleeping Apartments-Extent of the Ruins-Obstacles to Exploration-Suffering from Mosquitoes . . . . • . • • • . 404- CHAPTER XXXIV. Precautions against the Attacks of :Mosquitoes-1\fode of Life at Palenque-Description of the Palace - Piers - Hieroglyphics - Figures - Doorways - Corridors - Courtyards - A wooden Relic-Stone Steps-Towers-Tablets-Stucco Ornaments, &c. &c.-The Royal Chapel-Explorations-An Alarm-Insects-Effect of Insect Stings-Return to the Village of Palenq ue • . • • . • • . • . . • . . . . . • . • • • • . . 117 CHAPTER XXXV. A Voice from the Ruins-Buying Dread-Arrival of Padres-Cura of Palenque-Card Playing-Sunday-Mass-A D,inner Party-Mementoes of Home-Dinner CustomsReturn to the Ruins-A marked Change-Terrific Thunder-A Whirlwind-A Scene of the sublime and terrible , • , , , , • , , , , • , . . , . . • , • . • • 438 CONTEl'iTS. xiii CHAPTER XXXVI. PAGE Plan of the Ruins-Pyramidal Structure-A Building-Stucco Ornaments-Human Figures -Tablets- Remarkable Hieroglyphics - Range of Pillars -Stone Terrace-Another Building-A large Tablet-A Cross -Conjectures in regard to this Cross-Beautiful Sculpture-A Platform - Curious Devices -A Statue-Another Pyramidal Structure surmounted by a Building-Corridors-A curious Bas-relief-Stone Tablets, with Figures in Das-relief-Tablets and Figures -The Oratorio- More Pyramidal Structures and Buildings-Extent of the Ruins-These Ruins the Remains of a polished and peculiar People-Antiquity of Palenque • • • • . • . . • . . • • • • • • • • . , 447 CHAPTER XXXVII. Departure from the Ruins-Bad Road-An Accident-Arrl\•al at the Village-A Funera. Procession-Negotiations for purchasing Palenque- Making Casts - Final Departure from Palenque-Beautiful Plain-Hanging Bi.rdil-nests-A Sitio-Adventu.re with a monstrous Apo-Hospitality of Padres-Las Playas-A Tempest-Mosquitoes-A youthful Merchant-Alligators-Another Funeral-Disgusting Ceremonials . . . • . . . 475 CHAPTER XXXVIII. Embarkation-An inundated Plain-Rio Chico-The Usumai:lin ta-Rio Palisada-Yucatan - !\'fore Revolutions-Vespers-Embarkation for the Laguna-Shooting AlligatorsTremendous Stonn-Boca Chico-Lake of Tcrminos- A Calm, succeeded by a TerupestArrh•al at the Laguna • . • • • . . • • • . . . . . . • • • . • . • . 486 CHAPTER XXXIX. La:;una-Journey to Merida-Sisal-A new Mode of Conveyance-Village of HunucamaArrival at Merida-Aspect of the City-Fete of Cor1ms Domini-The Cathedral-The rroccssion-Beanty and Simplicity of the Indian Women -Palace of the Dishop-The Theatre-Journey to Uxmal-Haeienda of Vayalqucx-Value of Water-Condition of the Indians in Yucatan-A peculiar kind of Coach-Hacienda of Mucuych6-A_ beautifuJ Grotto . • • . • • • , • , • . • . • , • • • • , . • • • • • • . • 407 CHAPTER XL. Journey resumed-Arrival at Uxmal-Hacicnda. of Uxmal-Major-domos-Adventures of a young S1mniard-Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal-First Sight of the Ruins-Character of the Jndians- Details of Hacienda Life-A delicate Case- Illness of :Mr. Catherwood -llreaking up • • • • • , • • • • • . • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 509 CHAPTER XLI. Ruins of Uxmal-A lofty Building-Magnificent Yicw from its Doorway-Peculiar sculptu.red Ornaments-Another Duilding, called by the Indians the House of lhe DwarfAn Jndian Legend-The House of the Nunis-The Jiouse of Turtles-The House of Pigeons-The Guard-house-Absence of Water-The House of the Gonmor-Tcrraces -Woodc,i Linteh~-Dctails of the House of the Govcrn0r-noorways-Corridors-A Beam of Wood, inscribed with Hieroglyph.ics-Sculpturetl Stones, &c. . • • . . •• 515 XlV CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLII. PAGE Exploration finished-,Vho built these ruined Cities ?-Opinion of Dupaix-These Ruins bear no resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome-Nothing like them in Europe -Do not resemble the known ,vorks of Japan and China-Neither those of Hindu -No excavated Temples found-The Pyramids of Egypt, in their original state, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids of America -The Temples of Egypt not like those of America -Sculpture not the same as that of Egypt -Probable Antiquity of these Ruins- Accounts of the Spanish Historians-These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the Country at the Time of the Spanish Conquest -These Races not yet extinct . • • • • • • . . . . . • • • . • . . . . • . . . . . • 527 CHAPTER XLIII. Journey to Merida-Village of Moona-A Pond of Water, a Curiosity-Aboula-Indian Runners- Merida-Departure -Hunucama- Siege of Campeachy- Embarkation for Havana-Incidents of the Passage-Fourth of July at Sea-Shark~fishing-Getting lost at Sea - Relieved by the Jlelen Jlfaria - Passage to New York - Arrival - Conclusion • , . . • • • . • • . • . • • . . • • . • • • • • . . . 542 LIST OF PLATES, AND DIRECTIONS TO TIIE BINDER. PAGE MAP General View of Palcnque P1·ontispiece Portrait of l\fr. Stephens 1 Rio Dolce 16 2 lluiued Church at Chiquimula . 42 3 Wall of Copan 56 4 Rancho at Copan 65 5 Plan of Copan To face page 81 6 Death's Head . 82 7 Portrait 83 8 Stone Idol, 13 Feet hign, at Copan To face page 83 9 Stone Statue, Front View ditto 84 10 Portrait 85 11 Stone Idol . Tofacepago 85 12 'l'ablet of Hieroglyphics 86 13 No. 13.-Sides of Altar To face page 86 14 No. 14.-Sides of Altar ditto 86 15 Gigantic Head dWo 87 16 No. 16.-Slone Idol, Front View ditto 92 17 No. 17.-Stone Idol ditto 92 18 Idol, half Buried dUto 92 19 Idol, }'rout View ditto 93 20 Tdol , Back View ditto 93 21 Idol, Front View ditto 93 22 I do!, Back View ditto 93 23 Idol and Altar ditto 94 24 .l!'allen Statue . ditto 94 25 Idol, Front View ,Wto 95 26 Idol, Back View d-itto 95 27 lclol, Side View ditto 95 28 Fallen l<lol 95 29 Circular Altar 96 80 Stone Idol, Front View To face page 97 31 Stone ldol, Back View ditto 9?" 32 Stone ldol, Side View. ditto 97 33 Esquipulas . ditto 103 33 A Great Square of the Antigua Guatimala ditto 162 34 Crater of the Y olcano de Agua . 168 35 :Bsquintla Tofacep<J[Je 178 36 Idol at Quirigua. 293 XVI LIST OF PLATES. PAGE 37 Idol at Quirigua . 295 38 Santa Cruz de\ Quiche . 325 39 Place of Sacrifice . . 33 1 40 Figures found at Santa Cruz dcl Quiche 33J 41 Plaza at Quezaltenango . . . 350 42 Vases found at Gueguctcnango 367 43 Ocosingo . . . 384 44 Riding in a Silla . . . . . 397 45 Palace at Palenquc 416 46 Plan of the Palace at Palenq ue . 4 l!J 4 7 Stucco Figure on Pier . . . . 420 48 Front Corridor of Palace. . . 422 49 East Side of Courtyard of Palace . 425 50 Colossal Bas-reliefs in Stone 426 51 We~t Side of Courtyard of Palace . 427 52 No. 1.-Bas-relief in Stucco 429 53 No. 2.-Bas-relief in Stucco 430 54 No. 3.-Bas-relief in Stucco 431 55 Oval Bas-relief in Stone 433 56 Bas-relief in Stucco 435 57 General Plan of Palenque 446 58 Casa No. 1. in Ruins 448 59 Casa No. 1. Restored 449 60 No. 1.-Bas-relief in Stucco 451 61 No. 2.-Bas-relief in Stucco 452 62 No. 3.-Bas-relief in Stucco 453 63 No. 4.-Bas-relief in Stucco 454 64 No. 1.-Tablet of Hieroglyphics 455 65 No. 2.-Tablet of Hieroglyphics 456 66 Tablet of Hieroglyphics on Inner Wall . 457 67 Casa de Piedras, No. 2 . . . . . . 459 68 Tablet on Back Wall of Altar, Casa No. 2 . Between 460 d: 461 69 Stone Statue . To face page 462 70 Casa No. 3 . . . • . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 71 Front Corridor . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . 466 72 Large Stone Tablet (Figures and Hieroglyphics) . Between 464 & 465 73 No.1.-Bas-rclief on Side of Doorway leading to Altar 468 7 4 No. 2.-Bas-rclief on Side of Doorway leading to Altar 469 75 Adoratorio of Altar. 471 76 Casa No. 4 472 77 Cenote . . . . . 508 78 House of the Dwarf. 516 79 Plan of the Casa del Gobernador 522 80 Sculptured Front of the Casa de! Gobernador . 526 81 }Jgyptian Hieroglyphics . . . . . . . . 530 82 Central American and Mexican Hieroglyphical Writing 539 • " ).\ e \ Q._ zy C f ;i_ C Map of Jomn.ey 88 86 -= J{ i C 0 ~ C.C,tuolw, ~ ;,. Tiuladoliil U R, A S C ..._ <'I ....._ 0 '....,_ ~ C· ...... , ....._ '·· '...__,Nie ..,t>...,,..J:J. G;ofl'op CHIAPAS,& Yl!CATAN (' Ji,_qli#, Jt,J.., ...___ ..... ulo I 19r.1 "z,,,.!llh<J--r--,;.;;; Rd <>f' ~•wi...h .Lond,,n.A..lT«JJ.,~,J, t.o. :!6 . .r.rl_,, • .n,.,..&,,.._ ,. I ..... In ·-,. artaa:o • INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS, AND YUCATAN. CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE-TRE ''OYAGE-ARRIVAL AT DALIZE-MIXING OF COLOURS-GOVERNMENT HOUSE -COLONEL M'DONALD-ORIGI~ OF D ALIZE-NEGRO SCHOOLS-SCENE IN A COURT•ROOMLAW WITHOUT LAWYERS-THE DARRAC'KS-EXCURSlON IN A .PIT-PAN-A BEGINNING O.F :t-lONOURS-HONOURS ACCUMULATING-DEPARTURE .FROM BALIZE-SWEETS OF OFFICE. ON Wednesday, the 3d of October, 1839, we embarked at New York on board the British brig lila,·y Ann, Hampton, master, for the Bay of Honduras. The brig was lying in the North River, with her anchor apeak and sails loose, and in a few minutes, in company with a large whaling-ship bound for the Pacific, we were under way. It was before seven o'clock in the morning: the streets and wharfs were still ; the Battery was desolate, and, at the moment of leaving it on a voyage of uncertain duration, seemed more beautiful than I had ever known it before. Opposite the Quamntine Ground, a few friends who had accompanied us on board left ; in an hour the pilot followed ; at dusk the dark outline of the highlands of Neversink was barely visible, and the next morning we were fairly at sea. H urried on by a strong north-easter, on the 9th we were within the region of the trade-winds, on the 10th within the tropics, and on the 11th, with the thermometer at 80", but a refreshing breeze, we were moving gently between Cuba and St. Domingo, with both in full sight. For the rest, after eighteen days of boisterous weather, drenched with tropical rains, on the 29th we were driven inside the Lighthouse reef, and, avoiding altogether the regular pilot-grouncl, at midnight reached St. George's Bay, about twenty miles from Balizc. A largo brig, loaded with mahogany, was lying at anchor, with a pilot on B 2 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A)IERICA. board, waiting for favourable weather to put to sea. 'J'he pilot had with him bis son, a lad about sixteen, cradled on the "·ater, whom Captain Hampton knew, and determined to take on board. It was full moonlight when the boy mounted the deck and gave us the pilot's welcome. I could not distinguish his features, but I could see thot he was not whito ; and his voice was as soft as a woman's. He took his place at the wheel, and, loading the brig with canvas, told us of the severe gales on the coast, of the fears entertained for our safety, of disasters and shipwrecks, and of a pilot who, on a night which we well remembered, had driven his vessel over a sunken reef. At seven o'clock the next morning we saw Balize, appearing, if there be no sin in comparing it with cities consecrated by time arnl venerable associations, like V cnice and Alexandria, to rise out of the water. A range of white houses extended a mile along the shore, terminated at one end by the Government Honse, and at the other by the barracks, and intersected by the river Balizc, tl,e bridge across which formed a picturesque object ; while the fort on the little island at the mouth of the river, the spire of a Gothic church behind the Government House, and groves of cocoa-nut-trees, which at that distance reminded us of the palm-trees of Egypt, gave it an appearance of actual beauty. Four ships, three brigs, sundry schooners, bungoes, canoes, and a steamboat, were riding at anchor in the harbour ; alongside the vessels ,,ere rafts of mahogany; far out, a negro was paddling a log of the same costly timber ; and the government dory which boarded us when we came to anchor was made of the trunk of a mahogany-tree. We landed in front of the warehouse of Mr. Coffin, the consignee of the vessel. There was no hotel in the place, but Mr. Coffin undertook to conduct us to a lady who, he thought, could accommodate us with lodgings. The heavy rain from which we had suffered at sea had reached Balize. The streets were flooded, and in places there were large puddles, which it was difficult to cross. At the extreme end of the principal street we met the " lady," Miss --, a mulatto woman, who could only give us board. Mr. Coffin kindly offered the use of an unoccupied house on the other side of the river to sleep in, and we returned. By this time I had twice passed the whole length of the principal street, and the town seemed in the entire possession of blacks. The bridge, the market-place, the streets and stores were thronged with them, and I might have fancied myself in the capital of a negro republic. They were a fine-looking race, tall, straight, and athletic, .. A SAMPLE OF THE PICTURESQUE. 3 with skins black, smooth, and glossy as velvet, and well dressed, the men in white cotton shirts and trousers, with stmw hats, and the women in white frocks with short sleeves and broad red borders, and adorned with large red earrings and necklaces ; and I could not help remarking that the frock was their only article of dress, and that it was the fashion of these sable ladies to drop this considerably from off the right shoulder, and to carry the skirt in the left hand, and raise it to any height necessary for crossing puddles. On my way back I stopped at the house of a merchant, whom l found at what is called a second breakfast. The gentleman sat on one side of the table and his lady on the other. At the head was a )3ritish officer, and opposite him u mulatto ; on his left "·as another officer, and opposite him ulso a mulatto. By chance a place was rnude for me between the two coloured gentlemen. Some of my countrymen, perhaps, would have hesitated about taking it, but I did not; both were well dressed, well educated, und polite. 'l'hey talked of their mahogany works, of England, hunting, horses, ladies, amt wine; and before I had been an hour in Balize I learned that the great work of practical arnulgrunation, the suliject of so mnch angry controversy in the Stutes, had been going on quietly for generations ; that colour wus considered mere matter of taste; and thut some of the most respectable inhabitants had black wives und mongrel children, whom they educated with as much care, and made money for with as much zeal, as ir' their skins were perfectly white. I hardly knew whether to be shocked or amused at this condition of society; and, in the meantime, joined Mr. Catherwood, to visit the house offernd by Mr. Coffin. It was situated on the opposite side of the river, and the road to it was ankle•deep in mud. At the gate was a large puddle, which we cleared by a jump; the house was built on piles about two feet high, and underneath was water nearly a foot deep. We ascended on a plank to the sill of the door, and entered a large room occupying the whole of tho first floor, und perfectly empty. The upper story was tenanted by a family of ncgroes j in the y,u·d was a house swarming with negroes ; and all over, in the yard and in front, were picturesque groups of little negroes of both sexes, and naked as they were born. \Ve directed the room to be swept and om· luggage brought thoro ; and, as we left the hotrnc, we remembered Captain IIamplon's description before onr arrival, and felt the point of his concluding remcirk, that Balize was the last pluco made. We returned, und, while longing for the comfort of a good hotel, received through 11r. Goff, the Consul of tho United Stales, un ]3 2 4 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA. invitation from his Excellency, Colonel M'Douald, to the Government House, and information that he would send the government dory to the brig for our luggage. Holding au appointment under government for the first time, and not being sure of ever holding another, I determined to make the most of it, and accepted at once his Excellency's invitation. There was a steamboat for Yzabal, the port of Guatimala, lying at Balize; and, on my way to the Government House, I called upon Senor Comyano, the agent, who told me that she was to go up the next day ; but added, with great courtesy, that, if I wished it, he would detain her a few days for my convenience. Used to submitting to the despotic regulations of steamboat agents at home, this seemed a higher honour than the invitation of his Excellency; but, not wishing to push my fortune too far, I asked a delay of one day only. The Government House stands in a handsome situation at the extreme end of the town, with a lawn extending to the water, and ornamented with cocoa-nut-trees. Colonel M'Donald, a veteran six feet high, and one of the most military-looking men I ever saw, received me at the gate. In au hour the dory arrived with our luggage, and at five o'clock we sat down to dinner. "\Ve had at table Mr. Newport, chaplain, and for fifteen years parish clergyman at Balize ; Mr. Walker, Secretary of the Government, and holding, besides, such a list of offices as would make the greatest pluralist among us feel insignificant ; and several other gentlemen of Balize, office-holders, civil and military, in whose agreeable society we sat till eleven o'clock. The next day we had to make preparations for our journey into the interior, besides which we had an opportunity of seeing a little of Balize. The Honduras Almanac, which assumes to be the chronicler of this settlement, throws a romance around its early history by ascribing its origin to a Scotch buccaneer named Wallace. The fame of the wealth of the New World, and the return of the Spanish galleons laden with the riches of Mexico and Peru, brought upon the coast of America hordes of adventurers-to call them by no harsher name-from England and France, of whom "\Vallace, one of the most noted and daring, found refuge and security behind the keys and reefs which protect the harbour of Balize. The place where he built his log huts and fortalicc is still pointed out, but their site is now occupied by warehouses. Strengthened by a close alliance with the Indians of the Moschito shore, and by the adhesion of numerous British adventurers, who descended upon the coast of Honduras for the purpose of cutting mahogany, he set the Spaniards at defiance. Ever since, the NEGRO SCilOOLS. 5 territory of Balize has been the subject of ncgociation and contest, and to this day the people of Ccntml America claim it as their own. It has grown by the exportation of mahogany; but, as the trees in the neighbourhood have been almost all cut down, and Central America is so impoverished by wars that it offers but a poor market for British goods, the place is languishing, and will probably continue to dwindle away until the enterprise of her merchants discovers other channels of trade. At this day"it contains a population of six thousand, of which four thousand are blacks, who are employed by the merchants in gaugs as mahogany cntters. Their condition wa.~ always better than that of plantation slaves; even before the act for the general abolition of slavery throughout the British dominions, they were actually free; and on the 31st of August, 1839, a year before the time appointed by the act, by a general meeting and agreement of proprietors, even the nominal yoke of bondage was removed. The event was celebrated, says the Honduras Almanac, by religious ceremonies, processious, bands of music, and banners with devices : " The sons of Ham respect the memory of "\Vilberforce,"-" The Queen, God bless her,"-" M'Donald for ever,"-" Civil and religious liberty all over the world." Nelson Schaw," a snowdrop of the first water," continues the Almanac," advanced to his Excellency, Colonel M'Donald, and spoke as follows:-' On the part, of my emancipated brothers and sisters, I venture to approach your Excellency, to entreat you to thank our most gracious Queen for all that she has done for us. We will pray for her; we will fight for her; and, if it be necesmry, we will die for her. "\Ve thank your Excellency for all you have done for us. God bless your Excellency! God bless her Excellency, Mrs. M'Donald, and all the Royal family! Come, my countrymen, hurrah! Dance, ye black rascals ! the flag of England flies over your beads, and every rustle of its folds knocks the fetters off the limbs of the poor slave. Hubbabboo Cochalorum Gee!'" The negro schools stand in the rear of the Government House, and the boys' department consisted of about two hundred, from three to fifteen years of age, and of every degree of tinge, from nearly white down to two little native Africans, bearing on their cheeks the scars of cuts made by their parents at home. These last were taken from on board a slave-ship captured by an English cruizer, brought into Ilalize, and, as provided for by the laws, on a drnwing by lot, fell to the share of a citizen, who, entering into certain covenants for good treatment, is entitled to their services until they are twenty-one years old. Unfortunately, the master was not present, and I had no opportunity G TRAVELS IN CEN'l'RAL A)IERICA. of learnino- tho result of his experience in teaching; but in this school, I was told, the brightest boys, and those who had improved most, were those who had in them the most white blood. The mistress of the female department was experienced in teaching; and she told us that, though she had had many clever black girls under her charge, her white scholars were always the most quick and capable. From tho negro school we went to the Grand Court. It had been open abont half an hour when we entered. On the 0 back wall, in a massiYc mahogany tablet, \\·ere the arms of England; on a high platform beneath was a large circular table, around which were heavy mahogany chairs with high backs and cushions. The court consists of seven judges, five of whom were in their places. One of them, nfr. ·walker, invited me to one of the vacant seats. I objected, on the ground that my costume was not becoming so dignified a position; be insisted, and I took my seat, in a roundabout jacket, upon a chair exceedingly comfortal,le for the administration of justice. As before remarked, five of the judges were in their places ; one of whom was a mulatto. The jury was empannelled, and two of the jnrors were mulattoes; one of them, as the judge who sat next me said, was a Sambo, or of the descending line, being the son of a mulatto woman and a black man. I was at a loss to determine the caste of a third, and inquired of the jndge, who answered that he was his, the judge's brother, and that his mother was a mulatto woman. The judge was aware of the feeling existing in the United States with regard to colour, and said that in Balizo there was, in political life, no distinction whatever, except on the ground of qualifications and character; and hardly any in social life, even in contracting marriages. I had noticed tho judges and jurors, but I missed an important part of an English court, Where were the gentlemen of tho bar 1 Some of my readers will perhaps concur with Captain Hampton, that Balize was the last place made, when I tell them that there was not a single lawyer in the place, and never had been; but, lest some of my enterprising professional brethren from the States should forthwith be tempted to pack their trunks for a descent upon the exempt city, I consirler it my duty to add that I do not believe there is tho least chance for one. As there is no bar to prepare men for the bench, the judges, of course, are not lawyers. Of the five then sitting, two were merchants, one a mahogany cutter, and the mulatto, second to none of tho others in character or qualifications, a doctor. This court is the hiO'hest tribunal for the trial of civil causes, and has jurisdiction of all am;unts A RIDE TO TUE BaURACKS. 7 aboYe 15l. Balize is n place of large commcrcinl tmnsactions; contracts are daily made and broken, or misuuclcrtitood, "·hich require the intervention of some proper tribuual to interpret nnd compel their fulfilment. Aud there was no absence of litigation; the calendar was large, nnd the court-room crowded. The first cause cnlled was upon au account, when the defendant did not appeur, and a verdict was taken by default. In the next, the plaintiff stated his case, and swore to it; the defendunt answered, called witnesses, and the cause was submitted to the jury. There was no case of particular interest. In one the parties became excited, and the defendant interrupted the plaintiff repeutedly, on which the latter, putting his hand upon the shoulder of his antagonist, said, in a coaxing way, "Now don't, George; wait n little, you shall have your turn. Don't interrupt me, and I won't you." All was done in a familiar and colloquial way; the parties were more or less known to each other, and judges und jurors were greatly influenced by knowledge of general churactcr. I remarked that regularly the merits of the case were so clearly brought out, that, when it was committed to the jury, there was no question about the verdict; and so satisfactory has this system proved, that, though an appeal lies to the Queen in Council, as ::ifr. Evans, the foreman, told me, but one cause has been carried up in twcnty-t,rn year.;. Still it stands as an anomaly in the history of English jurisprudence; for, I believe, in every other place where the principles of tho common law govern, the learning of the bench and the ingenuity of the bar are considered necessary to elicit the truth. At daylight tho next morning I was roused by ::ilr. Walker for a ride to the bnrracks. Immediately beyond the suburbs we entered upon an uncultivutcd country, low and flat, but very rich. \Ye passed a racecourse, now disused and grown over. This is the only road opened, uud there are no wheel-carriages in Balizo. Between it and the inhabited part of Central America is a wilderness, unbroken even by an Indim1 path. 'rhere is no communication \\·ith the interior except by tbc Golfo Dolce or the Balize River; au,l, from the want of rouds, u residence there is more confining than living on an island. In half an hour we reached the barracks, situutccl on the opposite side of a small bay. 'rhe soldiers arc ull black, nud arc part of an old Jamaica regimeut, most of them having been enlisted :,t tho English recruiting stations in Africa. Tall and athletic, with reel couts, and, on a lino, brislling with steel, their ebony faces gave them a peculiarly warlike appearance. They carry themselves proudly, cull themsehes the "Queen's Gentlemen," und look down with contempt upon the ''nigger~." 8 TRAVELS IN CEN'fRAL Al\IERICA, ,v e returned to breakfast, and immediately after made au excursion in the government pit-pan. This is the same fashion of boat in which the Indians navigated the rivers of America before the Spaniards discovered it. European ingenuity Las not contrived a better, though it has, perhaps, beautified the In<lian model. Ours was about forty feet long, and six wide in the centre, running to a point at both ends, and made of the trunk of n mahogany-tree. Ten feet from the stern, and running forward, was a light wooden top, supported by fanciful stancheons, with cmiaius for protection against sun and rain ; it had large cushioned scats, and was fitted up almost as neatly as the gondolas of Venice. It was manned by eight negro soldiers, who sat two on a scat, with paddles six feet long, and two stood up behind with paddles as steersmen. A few touches of the paddles gave brisk way to the pit-pan, and we pnssed rapidly the whole length of the town. It was an unusual thing for his Excellency's pit-pan to be upon the water; citizens stopped to gaze at us, and all the idle negroes hlll'ried to the bridge to cheer us. This excited our African boatmen, who, with a wild chant that reminded us of the songs of the Nubian boatmen on the Nile, swept under the bridge, and hurried us into the still expanse of a majestic river. Before the cheering of the negroes died away, we were in as perfect a solitude as if removed thousands of miles from human habitations. The Balize River, coming from sources even yet but little known to civilized man, was then in its fulness. On each side was a dense, unbroken forest; the banks were overflowed; the trees seemed to grow out of the water, their branches spreading across so as almost to shut out the light of the sun, and reflected in the water as in a mirror. The sources of the river were occupied by the aboriginal owners, wild and free as Cortes found them. "\Ve had au eager desire to penetrate by it to the famous Lake of Peten, where the skeleton of the conquering Spaniard's horse was erected into a god by the astonished Indians ; but the toil of our boatmen reminded us that they were paddling against a rapid current. '\Ve turned the pit. pan, and with the full power of the stream, a pull stronger, and a chant louder than before, amid the increased cheering of the negroes, swept under the bridge, and in a few· minutes were lauded at the Government House. In order that we might embark at the hour appointed, Colonel l\I'Donald had ordered dinner at two o'clock, and, as on the two preceding days, had invited a small party to meet us. Perhaps I am wrong, but I should do violence to my feelings did I fail to express here my sense of the colonel's kindness. My invitation to the Government House was the fruit of my position as Minister of the United A BEGINNING OF HONOURS, 9 States; but I cannot help flattering myself that some portion of the kindness shown me was the result of personal acquaintance. Colonel M'Donald is a soldier of the "twenty years' war," the brother of Sir John M'Donald, adjutant-general of England, and cousin of Marshal · Macdonald of France. All his connexions and associations are military. At eighteen he entered Spain as an ensign, one of an army of ten thousand men, of whom, in less than six months, but four thousand were left. After being actively engaged in all the trying service of the Peninsular War, at Waterloo he commanded a regiment, and on the field of battle received the order of Companion of the Military Order of the Bath from the King of England, and that of Knight of the Order of St. Anne from the Emperor of Russia. Rich in recollections of a long military life, personally acquainted with the public and private characters of the most distinguished military men of the age, his conversation was like reading a page of history. He is one of a race that is fast passing away, and with whom an American seldom meets. But to return. The large window of the dining-room opened upon the harbour; the steamboat lay in front of the Government House, and the black smoke, rising in columns from her pipe, gave notice that it was time to embark. Before rising, Colonel :lll'Donald, like a loyal subject, proposed the health of the Queen; after which he ordered the glasses to be filled to the brim, and, standing up, he gave, "The health of Mr. Van Buren, President of the United States," accompanying it with a warm and generous sentiment, and the earnest hope of strong and perpetual friendship between England and America. • I felt at the moment, "Cursed be the hand that attempts to break it;" and albeit unused to taking the President and the people upon my shoulders, I answered as well as I could. Another toast followed to the health aud successful journey of Mr. Catherwood and myself, and we rose from table. The government dory lay at the foot of the lawn. Colonel M'Donald pnt his arm through mine, and, walking away, told me that I was going into a distracted country ; that Mr. Savage, the American consul in Guatimala, had, on a previous occasion, protected the property and lives of British subjects; and, if danger threatened me, I must assemble the Europeans, hang out my flag, and send word to him. I knew that these were not mere words of courtesy, and, in the state of the country to which I was going, felt the value of such a friend at hand. With the warmest feelings of gratitude I bade him farewell, and stepped into the dory. At the moment flags were run up at the government staff, the fort, the courthouse, and the government schooner, and a gun was fired from the fort. As I crossed the bay, 10 TILi. VELS IN CKt'\TRAL A)!ERICA. a salute of thirteen guns was fired; passing tho fort, the soldiers presented arms, the government schooner lowered and raised her ensign, and "·hon I mounted the deck of the steamboat, the captain, with hat in hand, told me that he had instructions to place her under my orders, and to stop wherever I pleased. The reader will perhaps ask how I bore all these honours. I Juul visited many cities, but it was the first time that flags and cannon announced to the world that I was goiug away. I was a novice, bL1t I endeavoured to behave as if I had been brought up to it ; and, to tell the truth, my heart beat, and I felt proud; for these were honours paid to my country, and not to me. To crown the glory of the parting scene, my good friend Captain llampton had charged bis two four-pounders, and when the steamboat got under way he fired one, but the other would not go off. The captain of the steamboat had on board one puny gun, with which he would have returned all their civilities; but, as he told me, to his great mortification, he had no powder. The steamboat in which we embarked was the last remnant of the stock in trade of a great Central American agricultural association, formed for building cities, raising the price of land, accommodating emigrants, and improvement generally. On the rich plains of the province of Vera Paz they had established the site of New Liverpool, which only wanted houses and a population to become a city. On the wheel of the boat was a circular brass plate, on which, in strange juxta. position, were the words "Vera Paz," "London." The captain was a small, weather-beaten, dried up old Spaniard, with courtesy enough for a Don of old. The engineer was an Englishman, and the crew were Spaniards, Mestitzoes, and mulattoes, not particularly at home in the management of a steamboat. Our only fellow-passenger was a Roman Catholic priest, a young Irishman, who had been eight months at Balize, and was now on his way to Guatimala by invitation of the Provesor, by the exile of the Archbishop the head of the Church. The cabin was very comfortable, but the evening was so mild that we took our tea on deck. At ten o'clock the captain came to me for orders. I have had my aspirations, but never expected to be able to dictate to the captain of a steamboat. Nevertheless, again, as coolly as if I had been brought up to it, I designated the places I wished to visit, and retired. Verily, thought I, if these are the fruits of official appointments, it is not strange that men are found willing to accept them. EYERY ONE FOR IIIMSELF. 11 CHAPTER II. £VERY ONE FOR HIMSELF-TRA\'ELLERS' TRJCKS-PUE~TA GORDA-A YISIT TO THE CARTil INDIANS-A CARIB CRONE-A BAl'TISM -RIO DOU'E-BEAUTIFUL SCENERY-YZAJIALP.ECEPTlON OF THE PADRE-A BARBER l!<. O.FFICE-A BAND 0.1-' "IYVINUIULES"-PARTIES lS CE~TRAL A).fERICA-A COJ\l.PATRIOT-A GRAVE IN A FOREIGN LA'ND-PREPARATIONS }'OR THE PASSAGE OF " THE MOUSTAIK "-A Ito AD NOT MAC.-\.DAl\llSED-PERTLS RY THE WAYA WELL-Sl'ICED LUNCH-THE :llOU:S-TAIN PASSED. ·wE had engaged a servant, a French Spaniard, St. Domingo born and Omoa bred, bearing the name of Augustin; young, and, as we at first thought, not very sharp. Early in the morning he asked us what we would have for breakfast, naming eggs, chickens, &c. \Ye gave him directions, and in due time sat down to breakfast. During the meal, something occurred to put us on inquiry, and we learned that everything on the table, excepting the tea and coffee, belonged to tho padre. Without asking any questions, or thinking of the subject at all, we had taken for granted that the steamboat made all necessary provisions for passengers; but, to our surprise, learned that the boat furnished nothing, and that passengers were expected to take care of themselves. The padre had been as ignorant and as improvident as we; but some good Catholic friends, whom he had married, or whose children he had baptized, had sent on board contributions of various kinds, and, among other things-odd luggage for a traveller-a coop full of chickens. We congratulated the padre upon his good fortune in having us with him, and ourselves npon such a treasnre as Augustin. I may mention, by-the-way, that, in the midst of Colonel J\I'Donald's hospitalities, J\fr. Catherwood and I exhibited rather too much of the old traveller. When at dinner tho last day, Mr. C. was called from table to superintend the remornl of some luggage, and shortly after I was called out; ancl, fortunately for Colonel M•Donald and the credit of my country, I found J\fr. C. quietly rolling up, to send back to N cw York, a largo blue cloak belonging to tho colonel, supposing it to be mine. I returned to the table, and mentioned to our host his nan-ow escape, adding that I had some doubt about a large canvas sack for bedding which I had found in my room, and, presuming it was one that had been promised me by Captain Hampton, had put on bonrd the steamboat; but this, too, it appeared, belonged to Colonel M:'Donald, and for many years had carried his camp bed. The result 12 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA, was, that the colonel insisted upon our taking it, and I am afraid it was pretty well worn out before he received it again. The reader will infer from all this, that Mr. C. and I, with the help of Augustin, were fit to travel in any country. But to return. It was a beautiful day. Our course lay nearly south, directly along the coast of Honduras. In his last voyage, Columbus discovered this part of the continent of America, but its verdant beauties could not win him to the shore. "\Vithout landing, he continued on to the Isthmus of Darien, in search of that passage to India which was the aim of all his hopes, but which it was destined he should never see. Steamboats have destroyed some of the most pleasing illusions of my life. I was hurried up the Hellespont, past Sestos and Abydos, and the Plain of Troy, under the clatter of a steam-engine; and it struck at the root of all the romance connected with the adventures of Columbus, to follow in his track accompanied by the clamour of the same panting monster. Nevertheless, it was very pleasant. "\Ve sat down under an awning; the sun was intensely hot, but we were sheltered, and had a refreshing breeze. The coast assumed an appearance of grandeur and beauty that realized my ideas of tropical regions. There was a dense forest to the water's edge. Beyond were lofty mountains, covered to their tops with perpetual green, some isolated, and others running off in ranges, higher and higher, till they were lost in the clouds. At eleven o'clock, we came in sight of Puenta Gorda, a settlement of Carib Indians, about a hundred and fifty miles down the coast, and the first place at which I had directed the captain to stop. As we approached, we saw an opening on the water's edge, with a range of low houses, reminding me of a clearing in our forests at home. It was but a speck on the great line of coast; on both sides were primeval trees. Behind towered au extraordinary mountain, apparently broken into two, like the back of a two-humped camel. As the steamboat turned in, where steamboat had never been before, the whole village was in commotion : women and children were running on the bank, and four men descended to the water, and came off in a canoe to meet us. Our fellow-passenger, the padre, during his residence at Balize, had become acquainted with many of the Caribs, and, upon one occasion, by invitation from its chief, had visited a settlement for the purpose of marrying and baptizing the inhabitants. He asked whether we had any objection to his taking advantage of the opportunity to do the same here; and as we had none, at the moment of disembarking A VISIT TO THE CARIB INDIANS. 13 he appeared on deck with a large wash-hand basin in one hand, and a well-filled pocket-handkerchief in the other, containing his priestly vestments. We anchored a short distance from the beach, and went ashore in the small boat. We landed at the foot of a bank abont twenty feet high, and, ascending to the top, came at once, under a burning sun, into all the richness of tropical vegetation. Besides cotton and rice, the cahoon, banana, cocoanut, pineapple, orange, lemon, and plantain, with many other fruits which we did not know even by name, were growing with such luxuriance, that at first their very fragrance was oppressive. Under the shade of these trees most of the inhabitants were gathered; and the padre immediately gave notice, in a wholesale way, that he had come to marry and baptize them. After a short consultntion, a house was selected for the performance of the ceremonies, and Mr. Catherwood and I, under the guidance of a Carib, who had picked up a little English in his canoe expeditions to Balize, walked through the settlement. It consisted of about five hundred inhabitants. Their native place was on the sea-coast, below Truxillo, within the government of Central America; and having taken an active part against Morazan, when his party became dominant they fled to this place, being within the limits of the British authority. Though living apart, as a tribe of Caribs, not mingling their blood with that of their conquerors, they were completely civilized; retaining, however, the Indian passion for beads and ornaments. The houses, or huts, were built of poles about an inch thick, set upright in the ground, tied together with bark-strings, and thatched with coroon leaves. Some had partitions and bedsteads made of the same materials ; in every house were a grass hammock and a figure of the Virgin, or of some tutelary saint; and we were exceedingly struck with the great progress made in civilization by these descendants of cannibals, the fiercest of all the Indian tribes whom the Spaniards encountered. 'l'he houses extended along the bank, at some distance apart ; and - the heat was so oppressive that, before reaching the last, we were about to turn back; but our guide urged us to go on and see "one oid woman," his grandmother. ·we followed, and saw her. She was very old; no one knew her age, but it was considerably over a hundred ; and what gave her more interest in our eyes than the circumstance of her being the grandmother of our guide, she came from the island of St. Vincent, the residence of the most indomitable portion of her race; and she had never been baptized. She received us with an idiotic laugh ; her figure was shrunken; her face shrivelled, 14 TRA. VELS IN CEKTRAL AMERICA, weazened, and wicked; and she looked as though, in her youth, she had gloried in dancing at a feast of human flesh. '\Ye returned, and found our friend, the padre, dressed in the contents of his pocket-handkerchief, quite a respectnble-looking priest. By his side was our steamboat wash-bowl, filled with holy water, and in his hand a prayer-book. Augustin stood up, holding the stump of a tallow candle. The Caribs, like most of the other T ndians of Central America, have received the doctrines of Christianity as presented to them by the priests and monks of Spain, and are, in all things, strict observers of the forms prescribed. In this settlement, the visit of a padre was a rare but welcome occurrence. At first, they seemed to have a suspicion that our friend was not orthodox, because he did not speak Spanish; but when they saw him in his gown and surplice, with the burning incense, all distrust vanished. There was little to be done in the way of marrying, there being a scarcity of men for that purpose, as most of them were nway fishing or at work; but a long file of women presented themselves, each with a child in her arms, for baptism. They were arranged around the wall in a cit-cle, and the padre began. Of the first he asked a question which I believe is not to be found in the book, and which, in some places, it would be considered impertinent to put to a mother who offered her child for initiation into the Church, viz., whether she was married. She hesitated, smiled, laughed, and answered no. The padre told her that this was very wrong and unbecoming a good Christian woman, and advised her to take advantage of the present opportunity to marry the child's father. She answered that she would like to do so, but that he was away cutting mahogany; and here, as his questions and her answers had to pass through an interpreter, the affair began to be complicated; indeed, so many of the women interposed, all speaking at once, that the padre became aware he had touched upon delicate ground, and so passed on to the next. In fact, even with the regular business our friend had enough to do. He understood but little Spanish; his book was in Latin; and not being able to translate as readily as the occasion required, he had employed the interval of our absence in copying on a slip of paper, from a Spanish Protestant prayer-book, the formal part of the baptismal service. In the confusion this was lost, and the padre was thrown back upon his Latin, to be translated into Spanish as required. After labouring a while, he turned to Augustin, and gave him in English the questions to put to the women. Augustin was a good Catholic, and li,tened to him with as much respect as if he had been the pope, but A BAPTIS~f. 15 did not understand a word ho said. I explained to Augustin in French, who explained to one of the men in Spanish, who explained to the \Yomen. '!.'his, of course, led to confusion; but all were so devout and respectful, that, in spite of these tribulations, the ceremony was solemn. When he came to the Latin parts, our friend rattled it off as fast as if fresh from the Propaganda at Rome, and the Caribs were not much behindhand. 'l'he padre had told us of the passion of the Caribs for a multiplicity of names ; and one of the women, after giving her child three or four, pointed to me, and told him to add mine. I am not very strict, but I did not care to assume wantonly the obligations of a godfather; and, stopping the ceremony, begged the padre to get me released with the best grace he could. He promised to do so : but it was an excessively hot clay ; the room was crowded, the doors choked up, and by this time tho padre, with his Latin, and English, and French, and Spanish, was in a profuse perspiration, and somewhat confused. I thought myself clear, till a few moments afterward, a child was passed along for me to take in my arms; but I was relieved on one point: I thought that it was the lady who had become a mother without being a wife, that wished her child to bear my name, but it was another; still, I most ungallantly avoided receiving the baby. On going away, however, the woman intercepted me, and, thrusting forward the child, called me compadre; RO that, without knowing it, I became godfather to a Carib child. Fortunately, its mother ,ms an honest woman, and the father stood by at the time. In all probability, I shall never have much to do with its training; and I can only hope that, in dne season, it will multiply the name, and make it respectable among the Caribs. ,vc returned to the steamboat, and in a few minutes were again under way, steering for the Rio Dolce. An aniphithcatrc of lofty mountains stretches for many miles along the coast, and back till they are lost to the sight; and on the right bank was one of the places I intended to visit. It ,ms four o'clock in the afternoon, and, in steering towards it, the captain told me that, if we cast anchor, it wonld be necessary to lie there till morning. I was loth to lose the only oppo1iunity I shall probably ever have of stopping a steamboat ; but I had an eager, almost a burning, curiosity, to see tho Golfo Dolce, and we all agreed that it would be wanton to lose such an opportunity of seeing it to advantage. I therefore directed the captain to move close to the bank, and pass on. The bank ,rns elevated about thirty feet above the water, and rich and luxuriant as at Puenta Gorda. 'l'he site of the intended city was 16 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. occupied by another tribe of Caribs, who, like the first, driven from their home by war, had followed up the coast, and, with that eye for the picturesque and beautiful in natural scenery whic_h distinguish~s the Indians everywhere, had fixed themselves upon this spot. Their leaf-thatched huts were ranged along the bank, shaded by groves of plantain and cocoa-nut-trees : canoes, with sails set, were lyi~g on the water; and men and women were sitting under the trees, gazmg at us. It was a soft and sunny scene, speaking peace and freedom from the tumults of a busy world. But, beautiful as it was, we soon forgot it ; for a narrow opening in a rampart of mountains wooed us on, and in a few moments we entered the Rio Dolce. On each side, rising perpendicularly from three to four hundred feet, was a wall of living green. Trees grew from the water's edge, with dense, unbroken foliage, to the top ; not a spot of ban-enness was to be seen ; and on both sides, from the tops of the highest trees, long tendrils descended to the water, as if to drink and carry life to the trnnks that bore them. It was, as its name imports, a Rio Dolce, a YZABAL-RECEPTION OF THE PADRE. 17 fairy scene of Titan land, combining exquisite beauty with colossal grandeur. As we advanced the passage turned, and in a few minutes we lost sight of the sea, and were enclosed on all sides by a forest wall; but the river, although showing us no passage, still invited us onward. Could this be the portal to a land of volcanoes and earthquakes, torn and distracted by civil war! For some time we looked in vain for a single barren spot; at length we saw a naked wall of perpendicular rock, but out of the crevices, and apparently out of the rock itself, grew shrubs and trees. Sometimes we were so enclosed that it seemed as if the boat must drive in amongst the trees. Occasionally, in an angle of the turns, the wall snnk,and the sun struck in with scorching force, but in a moment we were again in the deepest shade. From the fanciful accounts we had heard, we expected to see monkeys gambolling among the trees, and parrots flying over our heads; but all was as quiet as if man had never been there before. The pelican, the stillest of birds, was the only living thing we saw, and the only sound was the unnatural bluster of our steam-engine. The wild defile that leaJs to the excavated city of Petra is not more noiseless or more extraordinary, but strangely contrasting in its sterile desolation, while here all is luxuriant, romantic, and beautiful. For nine miles the pasB!tge continued thus one scene of unvarying beauty, when suddenly the narrow river expanded into a large lake, encompassed by mountains and studded with isla:1ds, which the setting sun illuminated with gorgeous splendour. ,v e remained on deck till a late hour, and awoke the next morning in the harbour of Yzabal. A single schooner of about forty tons showed the low state of her commerce. ,ve landed before seven o'clock in the morning, and even then it was hot. There were no idlers on the bank, and the custom-house officer was the only person to receive.us. 'l'he town stands on ~ gentle elevation on the banks of the Golfo Dolce, with mountains piled upon mountains behind. We walked up the street to the square, on one side of which was the house of :Messrs. Ampudia and Pulleiro, the largest and, except one they were then engaged in building, the only frame house in the place. 'l'he rest were all huts, built of poles and 1:eeds, and thatched with leaves of the cahoon-tree. Opposite their door was a large shed, under which were bales of merchandise, and mules, and muleteers, and Indians, for transporting goods across the Mico Mountain. The arrival of the padre created a great sensation. It was announced by a joyful ringing of the church bells, and in an hour after he was dressed in his surplice and say,ing mass. The church stood at the head of tho square, and like the houses, was built of poles and thatched with 0 18 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AillERICA, leaves. In front, at a distance of ten or fifteen feet, was a large wooden cross. The floor was of bare earth, bnt swept clean and strewed with pine-leaves; the sides were trimmed with branches and festoons of flowers, and the altar was ornamented with figures of the Virgin and saints, and wreaths of flowers. It was a long time since the people had had the privilege of hearing mass, and the whole population, Spaniards, Mestitzoes, and Indians, answered the unexpected but welcome call of the matin bell. The floor was covered with kneeling women having white shawls over their heads, and behind, leaning against the rude pillars, were the men ; and their earnestness and humility, the earthen floor and the thatched roof, were more imposing than the pomp of worship in the rich cathedrals of Europe or under the dome of St. Peter's. After breakfast we inquired for a barber, and were referred to the collector of tho port, who, we were told, was the best hair-cutter in the plac;. His house was no bigger than his neighbours', but inside hung a military saddle, with holsters and pistols, and a huge sword, the accoutrements of the collector when he sallied out at the head of his deputy to strike terror into the heart of a smuggler. Unfortunately, the honest democrat was not at home ; but the deputy offered his own services. Mr. C. and I submitted; but the padre, who wanted his crown shaved, according to tho rules of his order, determined to wait the return of the collector. I next called upon the commandant with my passport, His house was on the opposite side of the square. A soldier about fourteen years old, with a bell-crowned straw hat falling over his eyes like an extinguisher upon a candle, was standing at the door as sentinel. The troops, consisting of about thirty men and boys, were drawn up in front, and a sergeant was smoking a cigar and drilling them. The uniform purported to be a white straw hat, cotton trowsers, and shirt outside, musket, and cartridge-box. In one particular, uniformity was strictly observed, viz. all were barefooted. The first process of calling off rank and file was omitted ; and, as it happened, a long-legged fellow, six feet high, stood next to a boy twelve or thirteen years old. The customhouse officer was with the sergeant, advising him ; and, after a manamvre and a consultation, the sergeant walked up to the line, and with the palm of his hand struck a soldier on that part of the body which, in my younger days, was considered by the schoolmaster the channel of knowledge into a boy's brain. The commandant of this hopeful band was Don J nan Pefiol, a gentleman by birth and education, who, with others of his family, had been banished by General Morazan, and sought refuge in the United States, - A COMPATRIOT. 19 His predecessor, who was an officer of Morazan, had been just driven out by the Carrera party, and he was but twenty days in his place. Three great parties at that time distracted Central America : that of Morazan, the former president of the Republic, in San Salvador, of Ferrera in Honduras, and of Carrera in Guatimala. Ferrera was a mulatto, and Carrera an Indian ; and, though not fighting for any common purpose, they sympathized in opposition to Morazan. When Mr. Montgomery visited Guatimala, it was just thrown into a ferment by the rising of Carrera, who was then regarded as the he,1 d of a troop of banditti, a robber and assassin; his followers were called Cachurecos (meaning false coin), and Mr. Montgomery told me that against him an official passport would be no protection whatever. Now he was the head of the party that ruled Guatimala. Senor Peiiol gave us a melancholy picture of the state of the country. A battle had just Leen fought near San Salvador, between General Morazan and Ferrera, in which the former was wounded, bnt Ferrera was routed, and his troops were cut to pieces, and he feared Morazan was about to march upon Guatimala. He could only give us a passport to Guatimala, which ho said would not be re~pocted by General Morazan. We felt interested in tho position of Sei'ior Peiiol; young, but with a face bearing the marks of care and anxiety, a consciousness of the miserable condition of the present, and fearful forebodings for the future. To our great regret, the intelligence we received induced our friend the padre to abandon, for the present, his intention of going to Guatimala. He had heard all the terrible stories of Morazan's persecution and proscription of the priests, and thought it dangerous to fall into his bands; and I have reason to believe it "·as the apprehension of this which ultimately drove him from the country. · Towm·d evening I strolled through tho town. The population consists of about fifteen hundred Indians, negroes, mulattoes, Mestitzoos, and mixed blood of every degree, with a few Spaniards. Very soon I was accosted by a man who called himself my countryman, a mulatto from Baltimore, and his name was Philip. He had been eight years in the country, and said that he had once thought of returning home as a servant by way of New Orleans, but ho had left home in such a hurry that he forgot to bring with him his "Christian papers;" from which I inferred that he was what would be called in Maryland a runaway slave. He was a man of considerable standing, being fireman on board the steamboat at twenty-three dollars a month ; besides \Yhich, he did odd jobs at carpentering, and was, in fact, the principal architect in Y zabal, having then on his hands a contract for 3500. dollars for l,uilding tho new house of Messrs. Ampudia and Pulleiro. In other thing~, C 2 20 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, I am sorry to say, Philip was not quite so respectable ; and I can only hope that it was not his American edncation that led him into some irregularities in which he seemed to think there was no harm. He asked me to go to his house and see his wife, but on the way I learned from him that he was not married ; and he said, what I hope is a slander upon the good people of Yzabal, that he only did as all the rest did. He owned the house in which he lived, and for which, with the ground, he had paid twelve dollars ; and being a householder and an American, I tried to induce him to take advantage of the opportunity of the padre's visit, and set a good example by getting married; but he- was obstinate, and said that he did not like to be trammelled, and that he might go elsewhere and see another girl whom he liked better. While stfLnding at his door, Mr. Catherwood passed on his way to visit Mr. Rush, the engineer of the steamboat, who had been ill on board. WP found him in one of the huts of the town, in a hammock, with all his clothes on. He was a man of Herculean frame, six feet three or four inches high, and stout in proportion ; but he lay helpless as a child. A single candle stuck upon the dirt floor gave a miserable light, and a group of men of different races and colour, from the whitefaced Saxon to the Indian and African, stood round him ; rude nurses for one used to the comforts of an English home. I recollected that Yzabal was noted as a sickly place ; Mr. Montgomery, who published an interesting account of his visit to Guatirnala in 1838, had told me that it was running the gauntlet for life even to pasE through it, and I trembled for the poor Englishman. I remembered, too, what it is strange that I had before forgotten, that here Mr. Shannon, our charge to Central Amei'ica, died. Philip was with me, and knew where Mr. Shannon was buried, but in the dark he could not point out the spot. I intended to set out early in the morning ; and afraid that, in the hun-y of departure, I might neglect altogether the sacred duty of visiting, in this distant place, the grave of an American, I returned to the house and requested Senor Ampudia to accompany me. "\Ve crossed the square, passed through the suburbs, and in a few minutes were outside of the town. It was so dark that I could scarcely see my way. Crossing a deep gulley on a plank, we reached a rising ground, open on the right, stretching away to the Golfo Dolce, and in front bounded by a gloomy forest. On the top was a rude fence of rough upright poles, enclosing the grave of some relative of Seiior Ampudia; and by the side of this was the grave of Mr. Shannon. There was no stone or fence, or hardly any elevation to distinguish it from the soil around. It was a gloomy burial-place for a countryman, and I felt an involuntary PASSAGE OF "THE MOUKTAIN." 21 depression of spirit. A fatality had hung over our diplomatic appointment to Central America : Mr. Williams, M1·. Shannon, Mr. Dewitt, Mr. Leggett, all who had ever held it, were dead. I recollected an expression in a letter from a near relative of Mr. Dewitt: "May you be more fortunate than either of your predecessors has been." It was melancholy, that one who had died abroad in the service of his country was thus left on a wild mountain, without any stone to mark his grave. I returned to the house, directed a fence to be built around the grave of l\'lr. Shannon, and my friend the padl'0 promised to plant at its head a cocoa-nut-tree. At daylight the muleteers commenced loading for the passage of "the Mountain." At seven o'clock the whole caravan, consisting of nearly a hundred mules and twenty or thirty muleteers, was faii'ly under way. Om· immediate party consisted of five mules; two for l\Ir. Catherwood and myself, one for Augustin, and two for luggage ; besides which, we had four Indian carriers. If we had been consulted, perhaps at that time we should have scrupled to use men as beasts of burden; but Senor Ampudia had made all tho arrangements for us. The Indians were naked, except a small piece of cotton cloth around the loins, and crossing in front between the legs. The loads were arranged so as to have on one side a flat surface. 'L'he Indians sat or,, the ground with their backs against the smface; passed a strap across the forehead, which supported the load; and, adjusting it on their shoulders, with the aid of a staff or the hand of a by-stander rose npon their feet. It seemed cruel; but, befoi·e much sympathy could be expended upon them, they were out of sight. At eight o'clock Mr. C. and I mounted, each armed with a brace of pistols and a large hunting--knife, which we carried in a belt around the body; besides which, afn1.id to trust it in other hands, I had a mountain barometer slllng over my shoulder. Augustin carried pistols and sword; our principal muleteer, who was mounted, carried a machete and a pair of murderous spurs, with rowels two inches long, on his naked heels ; and two other muleteers accompanied us on foot, each carrying a gun. A group of friendly by-standers gave us their adieus and good "ishcs ; and, passing a few straggling houses which constituted the suburbs, we entered upon a marshy plain sprinkled with shrubs and small trees, and in a few minutes were in an unbroken forest. At every step the mules sank to their fetlocks in mud, and very soon we came to great puddles and mudholes, which reminded me oft.he breaking up of winter and the solitary horscpath in one of our primeval forests at home. As we advanced, tho shade of the trees became 22 'l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA. thicker, the holes larger and deeper, and roots, rising two or three feet above the ground, crossed the path in every direction. I gave the barometer to tho muleteer, and had as much as I could do to keep myself on the saddle. · All conversation was at an end, and we kept as close as we could to the track of tho muleteer; when he descended into a mudhole, and crawled out, the entire legs of his mule blue with mud, we followed, and cume out as blue as he. 'l'he caravan of mules, which had started before us, was but u short distance uhead, and in u little while we hoard ringing through the woods tho loud shout of the muleteers and the sharp crack of the whip. vVe overtook them at the bank of u stream which broke rupidly over a stony bod. The whole caravan was moving up the bed of the stream; the water was darkened by the shade of the overhanging trees ; the muleteers, without shirts, and with their large trowsers rolled up to the thighs and down from the waistband, were scattered among the mules ; one wus chusing a stray beast ; a second darting ut one whose load was slipping off; a third lifting up one that had fallen; another, with his foot braced against u mule's side, straining at the girth; all shouting, cursing, and lushing: the whole a mass of inextricable confusion, and pr9senting u scene almost terrific. ·we held up to lot them pass; and, crossing the stream, rode a short distance on a levd road, but over fetlock deep in mud ; and cutting off a bend, fell into the stream ourselves in the middle of the caravan. The branches of the trees met over our heads, and the bed of the stream was so broken and stony that the mules constantly stumbled and fell. Leuving this, and continuing on a road the same as before, in an hour we reached the foot of the mountain. The ascent began precipitously, and by an extraordinary passage. It was a narrow gully, worn by the tracks of mules and the washing of mountain torrents so deep that the sides were higher than our heads, and so narrow that we could barely pasE through without touching. Our whole caravan moved singly through these muddy defiles, the muleteers scattered among them and on the bank above, extricating the mules as they stuck fast, raising them as they fell, arranging their cargoes, cursing, shouting, and lashing them on. If one stopped, all behind were blocked up, unable to turn. Any sudden start pressed us against the sides of the gulley, and there was nQ small danger of gettiug a leg crushed. Emerging from this defile, we came again among deep mudholes and projecting roots of trees, with the additional difficulty of a steep ascent. The trees, too, were larger, and their roots higher and extending farther; and, above all, the mahoganytree threw out its gi:tnt roots, high at the trunk and tapering, not rERILS BY THE WAY, 23 round, like the roots of other trees, but straight, with shurp edges, tmversing rocks und the roots of other trees. It was the last of the rainy season; the heuvy rains from which we had suffered at sea had deluged the mountain, and it was in the worst state, to be pussablc; for sometimes it is not pasSt1ble at all. For the last few days there had been no rain ; but we had hardly congratulated ourselves upon our good fortune in having a clear day, when the forest became darker and the rain poured. The woods were of impenetruble thickness; and there was no view except that of the detestable path before us. For five long hours we were dragged through mudholes, squeezed in gulleys, knocked against trees, and tumbled over roots; every step required ctu·e and great physical exertion; und, withal, I felt that our inglorious epitaph might be, "tossed over the head of a mule, brained by the trunk of a mahogany-tree, and buried in the mud of the Mico Mountain." \Ve attempted to walk, but the rocks and roots were so slippery, the mudholes so deep, and the ascents and descents so steep, that it was impossible to continue. 'fhe mules were only half loaded, and even then several broke down ; the lash could not move them; and scarcely one passed 01-er without a fall. Of our immediate party, mine fell first. Finding that I could not save her with the rein, by an exertion that strained every nerve I lifted myself from off her back, and flung clear of roots and trees, but not of mud; and I had an escape' from a worse danger : my dagger fell from its sheath and stood upright, with the handle in the mud, a foot of naked blade. Mr. Catherwood was thrown with such violence, that for a few moments, feeling the helplessness of our condition, I was horror-struck. Long before this he had broken silence to utter an exclamation which seemed to come from the hot tom of his heart, that, if he had known of this " mountain," I might have come to Central America alone; if I had had any tendency to be a little uplifted by the honours I received at Balize, I was brought down by this high way to my capital. Shortly after Augustin's mnle fell backward; he kicked his feet out of the stirrups, and attempted to slide off behind ; but the mule rolled, and caught him with his left leg under, and, but for his kicking, I should have thought that every bone in his body was broken. The mule kicked worse than he; but they rose together, and without any damage except the mud, which before lay upon them in spots, was now formed int -. regular plaster. We were toiling on toward the top of the mountain, when, at a sudden turn, we met a solitary traveller. He was a tall, dark-complexioned man, with a broad-brimmed Panama hat, rolled up at the sides; a striped woollen Guatimala jacket, with fringe at the bot.tom; 24 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. plaid pantaloons, leather spatterdashes, spurs, and sword; he was mounted on a noble mule with a bigla-peaked saddle, and the butts of a pair of horseman's pistols peeped out of the holsters. His face was covered with sweat and mud; his breast and legs were spattered, and his right side was a complete incrustation ; altogether, his appearance was fearful. It seemed strange to meet any one on such a road ; and, to our surprise, ho accosted us in English. He had set out with muleteers and Indians, bnt had lost them in some of the windings of the woods, and was seeking his way alone. He bad crossed the mountain twice before, but had ;iever known it so bad; he had been thrown twice; once his mule rolled over him, and nearly crushed him; and now she was so frightened that he could hardly urge her along. He dismounted, and the trembling beast and his own exhausted state confirmed all that he bad said. He asked us for brandy, wine, or water, anything to revive him ; but, unfortunately, our stores were ahead, and for him to go back one step was out of the question. Imagine our surprise, when, with his feet buried in the mud, he told us that he had been two years in Gu:1timala "negotiating" for a bauk charter. Fresh us I was frorn the land of banks, I almost thought he intended a fling at me; but he did not look like one in a humour for jesting; and, for the benefit of those who will regard it as an evidence of incipient improvement, l am able to state that he had the charter secured when he rolled over in the mud, and was then on his way to England to sell the stock. He told us, too, what seemed in better keeping with the scene, that Carrera had marched toward St. Salvador, and a battle was daily expected between him and Morazan. Bnt neither of us had time to lose ; and parting, though with some reluctance, almost as abrnptly as we had met, we continued our ascent. At one o'clock, to our inexpressible satisfaction, we reached the top of the mountain. Here we found a clearing of about two hundred feet in diameter, made for the benefit of benighted muleteers; in different places were heaps of ashes and burned stumps of wood, the remains of their fires. It was the only place on the mountain which the sun could reach, and here the ground was d1·y ; but the view was bounded by the clearing. We dismounted, and would have lunched, but had no water to drink ; and, after a few minutes' rest, resumed our journey. The descent was as bad as the ascent ; and, instead of stopping to let the mules breathe, as they had done in ascending, the muleteers seemed anxious to determine in how short a time they could tumble them down the mountain. In one of the muddiest defiles we were shut up by the falling of a mule before, and the crowding upon us of all A DISASTER IN THE COl\Il\IISSARlAT. 25 behind ; and, at the first convenient place, we stopped until the whole caravan had passed. The carefulness of the mules was extraordinary: for an hour I watched the movements of the one before me. At times he put one of his fore feet on a root or stone, and tried it as a man would ; sometimes he drew his fore legs out of a bed of mud from the shoulders, and sometimes it was one continued alternation of sinking and pulling out. This is the great high road to the city of Guatimala, which has always been a place of distinction in Spanish America. Almost all tho travel and merchrmdize from Europe passes over it; and our guide said that the reason it was so bad, was because it was traversed by so many mules,-which, in most countries, would have been considered a sufficient reason for making it better. In two hours we reached a wild river or mountain to1Tent, foaming and breaking over its rocky bed, and shaded by large trees. It was called El Arroyo del Mucrto, or Stream of the Dead. The muleteers were already distributed on the rocks, or under the shade of the trees, eating their frugal meal of corn-cakes; the mules were in the river, or scattered along the bank; and we selected a large tree, which spread its branches over us like a roof, and so near the stream, that we could dip our drinking-cups into the water. All the anxiety which I had been able to spare dming the day from myself, I had bestowed upon the ,barometer on the Lack of tho guide. He carried, besides, a small white pitcher, with a rod rim, on the belt of his machete, of which he was very proud and very careful; and several times, after a stumble and a narrow escape, he turned round and held up the pitcher with a smile, which gave me hopes of the barometer; and, in fact, he had carried it through without its being broken, but, unfortunately, the quicksilver ,Yas not well secured, and the whole had escaped. It was impossible to repair it in Guatimala, and the loss of this barometer was a sonrce of regret during our whole journey; for we ascended many mountains, the hejghts of which have never been ascertained. But we had another misadventure, which, at the moment, touched us more nearly. ·we sat on the ground, Turkish fashion, with a vacant space between us. Augustin placed before us a well-filled napkin ; and, as we dipped water from the clear stream by our side, a spirit of other days come over us, and we spoke in contempt of railroads, cities, and hotels. But oh, publicans, you were avenged! We unrolled the napkin, and the scene that presented itself was too shocking even for the strongest nerves. We had provided bread for three days, eggs boiled hard, and two roasted fowls for as long as they might last 26 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Augustin bad forgotten salt, but be had placed in the napkin a large paper of gunpowder, as an adventure of bis own. The paper was broke11, and the breud, fowls, und eggs were thoroughly seasoned with this new condiment. All the beauty of the scene, all our equanimity, everything except our tremendous appetites, left us in a moment. Country tuverns rose up before us ; 1111d we, who had been so amiable, abused Augustin, and wished him the whole murderous seasoning in his own body. We could not pick out enough to satisy hunger. It was, perhaps, the most innocent way of tasting gunpowder, but even so it was a bitter pill. ,Ve picked and made excavations for immediate use, but the rest of our stores was lost. This over, we mounted, and, fording the streum, continued our descent. Passing off by a spur of the mountuin, we came out upon an open ridge, commanding a view of an extensive savannah. Very soon we reached a fine table-1::tnd, where a large party of muleteers, on their way to Yzabal, were encamped for the night. Bales of indigo, which formed their cargoes, were piled up like a wall : their mules were pasturing quietly near them, and fires were burning to cook their suppers. It was a great satisfaction to be once more in an open country, and to see the mountain, with its dense forest, lighted up by the setting sun, gmnd and gloomy, and ourselves fairly out of it. With ten hours of the hardest riding I ever went through, we had made only twelve miles. Descending from this table-land, we entered a plain, thickly wooded, and in a few minuter, reached a grove of wild palm-trees of singular beauty. From the top of a tall naked stem grew branches twenty or thirty feet long, spreading from the trunk, and falling outwurd with a graceful bend, like enormous plumes of feathers. The trees stood so close, that the bending branches met, und formed arches, in some places as regular as if constructed by art ; and as we rode among them, there was a solemn stillness, an air of desolation, that reminded us of the columns of an Egyptian temple. Tcwards dark we reached the rancho of Mico. It was a small house, built of poles, und plastered with mud. Near it, and connected by a shed thatched with branches, was a larger house, built of the same material, expressly for the use of travellers. This was already occupied by two parties from Guatimala; one of which consisted of the Canonigc, Castillo, his clerical companion or secretary, and two of the young Pavons : the other was a French merchant on his way to Paris. Mr. C. and I were picturesque-looking objects, not spattered, but plastered with mud from head to foot ; but we were soon known, and received from the whole company a cordial welcome to Central America. A PLEASANT ENCOUN'£ER, 27 Their appearance was such as gave me a highly favourable opinion of the description of persons I should meet at Guatimala. The canonigo was one of tho first men in the country in position and character, and was then on his way to Havana, on a delicate political mission, being sent by the Constituent Assembly to invite back the archbishop, who had been banished by General Morazan ten years before. He undertook to do the honours, and set before us chocolate, and, what he called the "national dish," frigoles, or black beans fried, which, fortunately for our subsequent travels, we "cottoned" to at once. "\Ve were very tired, but agreeable company was better than sleep. The canonigo had been educated at Rome, and passed tho early part of his life in Europe; the Frenchman was from Paris; the young Pavons were educated in New York : and we sat till a late hour, our clothes stiff with mud, talking of France, Italy, and our home. At length we hung up our hammocks. We had been so much occupied, that we had paid no attention to our luggage; and when we wanted to procure a change of raiment, could not find our men, and were obliged to turn in as we were; but, with the satisfactory feeling that we had passed " the mountain," we soon fell asleep. 28 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IEilICA. CHAPTER III. A CANONIGO-HOW TO ROAST A FOWL-EXTEMPORE SHOEMAKIXG-MOTAGUA RIVER-TIEAtlTIFUL SC'ENE-l:ROSSING THE RIVER-TUR LUXURY OF WATER-PRl)JITJVE COSTUMES-HOW TO MAKE TORTILLAS-C'OSTLY TJMrlER-GUALAN-OPI'RESSIVE HEAT-SHOCK OP AN EARTKQUAKR-A STROLL THROUGH THE TOWN-A TROUBLESOME MULETEER - A LAWSUIT -IMPORTAST NEGOTIATIONS-A MODERN DONA DEA-HOW TO GAIN A HUSBAND-A KINGDOM OF FLflRA-ZACAPA-MAKING FREE WITH A JIOST. BEFORE daylight I was out of doors. Twenty or thirty men, muleteers and servants, were asleep on the ground, each lying on his back, with his black chamarro wound round him, covering his head and feet. As the day broke they arose. Very soon the Frenchman got up, took chocolate, and, after an hour's preparation, started. The canonigo set off next. He had crossed the mountain twenty years before, on his first arrival in the country, and still retained a full recollection of its horrors. He set off on the back of an Indian, in a silla, or chair with a high back and top to protect him from the sun. Three other Indians followed as relay carriers, and a noble mule for his relief if he should become tired of the chair. The Indian was bent almost double, but the canonigo was in high spirits, smoking his cigar, and waving his hand till he was out of sight. The Pavons started last, and we were left alone. Still none of our men came. At about eight o'clock two made their appearance ; they had slept at a rancho near by, and the others had gone on with the luggage. We were excessively provoked ; but, enduring as we might the discomfort of our clothes stiff with mud, saddled and set off. w·e saw no more of our caravan of mules, and our muleteer of the barometer had disappeared without. notice, and left us in the hands of two understrappers. Our road lay over a mountainous country, but generally clear of wood ; and in about two hours we reached a collection of ranchos, called El Pozo. One of our men rode up to a hut and dismounted, as if he were at home. The woman of the house chided him for not having come the night before, which he gruffiy ascribed to us ; and it was evident that we stood a chance of losing him too. But we had a subject of more immediate interest in t.he want of a breakfast. Our tea and coffee, all that we had left after the destruction of our stores by EXTEMPORE SIIOEMAKIKG. 29 gunpowder, were gone forward, and for some time we conld get nothing. And here, in the beginning of our journey, we found a scarcity of provant greater than we had ever met with before in any inhabited country. The people lived exclusively upon tortillas-flat cakes made of crushed Indian corn, and baked on a clay griddle-and black beans. Augustin bought some of these last, but they required several hours' soaking before they could be eaten. At length he succeeded in buying a fowl, through which he ran a stick, and smoked it over a fire, without dressing of any kind, and which, with tortillas, made a good meal for a penitentiary system of diet. As we had expected, our principal muleteer was unable to tear himself away ; but, like a dutiful husband, he sent, by the only one that was now left, a loving message to his wife at Gualan. At the moment of starting, our remaining attendant said he could not go until he had made a pair of shoes, and we were obliged to wait ; but it did not take long. Standing on an untanned cowhide, he marked the size of his feet with a piece of coal, cut them out with his machete, made proper holes, and, passing a leather string under the instep, around the heel, :1nd between the great toe, and the one next to it, was shod. Again our road lay on the ridge of a high mountain, with a valley on e:1ch side. At a distance were beautiful hillsides, green, and ornamented with pine-trees, and cattle grazing upon them, that reminded us of park scenery in England. Often points presented themselves, ,rhich in other countries would have been selected as sites for dwellings, and embellished by art and taste. And it was a land of perpetual summer; the blasts of winter never reach it; but, with all its softness and beauty, it was dreary and desolate. At two o'clock it began to rain; in an hour it cleared off, and from the high mountain ridge we saw the Motagua River, one of the noblest in Central America, rolling majestically through the valley on our left. Descending by a wild, precipitous path, at four o'clock we reached the bank directly opposite Eneuentros. It was one of the most beautiful scenes I ever beheld : all around were giant mountains, and the river, broad and deep, rolled through them with the force of a mighty torrent. On the opposite bank were a few houses, and two or three canoes lay in the water, but not a person was in sight. By loud shouting we brought a man to the bank, who entered one of the canoes and set her ach·ift; he was immediately carried far down the stream; but, taking advantage of an eddy, he brought her across to the place where we stood. Our luggage, the saddles, bridles, and other trappings of the 30 TRAVELS IN CE"1TRAL AMERICA. mules were put on board, and we embarked. Augustin sat in the stern, holding the halter of one of the mules, and leading her like a decoy duck; but the rest had no disposition to follow, The muleteer drove them in up to their necks, but they ran back to the shore. Several times, by pelting them with sticks and stones, he drove them in as before. At length he stripped himself, and, wading to the depth of his bren.st, with a stick ten or twelve feet long, succeeded in getting them all afloat, and on a line within the reach of his stick. Any one that turned toward the shore received a blow on the nose, and at length they all set their faces for the opposite bank ; their little heads were all that we could see, aimed directly across, hut carried down by the current. One was carried below the rest; and, when she saw her companions landing, she mised a frightened cry, and almost drowned herself in struggling to reach them. During all this time we sat in the canoe, with the hot sun beating upon our heads. For the last two homs we had suffered excessively from heat ; our clothes were sa,tnmted with perspiration and stiff with mud, and we looked forward almost with rnptme to a bath in the Motagua and a change of linen. We landed, and walked up to the house in which we were to pass the night. It was pln.stered and whitewashed, and adorned with streaks of red in the shape of festoons ; and in front was a fence made of long reeds, six inches in diameter, split into two; altogether the appearance was favourable. To onr great vexation, our luggage had gone on to a rancho three leagues beyond. Our muleteers refused to go any farther. \Ve were unpleasantly situated, but we did not care to leave so soon the Motagua river. Our host told us that his house and all that he had were at our disposal ; but he could give us nothing to cat; and, telling Augustin to ransack the village, we returned to the river. Everywhere the current was too rapid for a quiet bath. Calling our canoe man, we returned to the opposite side, and in a few minutes were enjoying an ablution, the luxlll'Y of which can only be appreciated by those who, like us, had crossed the Mico }.fountain without throwing away their clothes. There was an enjoyment in this bath greate1· even than that of cooling our heated bodies. It wn.s the moment of a golden sunset. \Ve stood up to our necks in water clear as crystal, and calm as that of some diminutive lake, at the margin of a channel along which the stream was rushing with arrowy speed. On each side were mountains several thousand feet high, with their tops illuminated by the setting sun; on a point above us wn.s a pahn-le,ifed hut, and before it a naked Indian sat looking at us; while flocks of parrots with brilliant plumage, almost in thousands, were flying over our heads, catching up our words, and - I J r I I I ll PRIMI'l'IVE COSTUMES. 31 filling the ain vith their noisy mockings. It was one of those beautiful scenes that so rarely occur in human life, almost realizing dreams. Old as we were, we might have become poetic, but that Augustin came down to the opposite bank, and, with a cry that rose above the chattering of parrots and the loud murmur of the river, called us to supper. " ' e had one moment of agony when we returned to our clothes. They lay extended upon the bank, emblems of men who had seen bette1· days. The setting sun, which shed over all a soft and mellow lustre, laid bare the seams of mud and dirt, and made them hideous. We had but one alternative, and that was to go without them. But, as this seemed to be trenching upon the proprieties of life, we picked them up and put them on reluctant. I am not sure, however, but that we made an unnecessary sacrifice of personal comfort. The proprieties of life are matters of conventional usage. Om host was a don; and when we presented our letter he received us with great dignity in a single gmment, loose, white, and very laconic, not quite reaching his knees. 'l'he dress of his wifo was no less easy; somewhat in the style of the old-fashioned short-gown and petticoat, only the short-gown, and whatever else is usually worn under it, were wanting, and their place supplied by a string of beads, with a large cross at the end. A dozen men and half-grown boys, naked, except the small covering formed by rolling the trowsers up and down in the manner I have mentioned, were lounging about the house ; and women and girls in such extremes of undress, that a string of beads seemed quite a covering for modesty. Mr. C. and I were in a rather awkward predicament for the night. 'l'he general reception-room contained three beds, made of strips of cowhide interlaced. The don occupied one ; he had not much undressing to do, but what little he had, ho did by pulling off his shirt. Another bed was at the foot of my hammock. I was dozing, when I opened my eyes, and saw a girl about seventeen sitting sideways upon it, smoking a cigar. She had a piece of striped cotton cloth tied around her waist, and falling below her knees ; the rest of her dress was the same which Nature bestows alike upon tho belle of fashionable life and the poorest girl ; in other words, it was the same as that of the don's wife, with tho exception of the string of beads. At first I thought it was something I had conjured up in a dream ; and as I waked up perhaps I raised my head, for she gave a fow quick puffs of her cigar, drew a cotton sheet over her head and shoulders, and lay down to sleep. I endcavoureJ to do the same. I called to mind the proverb, that "travelling makes strange bedfellows." I had slept pollmell with Greeks, 'rnrks, and Arabs. I "·as beginning a journey in a new country; it was my duty to conform to the customs of the people; to 32 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, be prepared for the worst, and submit with resignation to whatever might befall me. As guests, it was pleasant to feel that the family made no strangers of us. The wife of the don retired with the same ceremonies. Several times during the night we were waked by the clicking of flint and steel, and saw one of our neighbours lighting a cigar. At daylight the wife of the don was enjoying her morning slumber. While I was dressing she bade me good-morning, removed the cotton covering from her shoulders, and arose dressed for the day. "\Ve started early, and for some distance our road lay along the banks of the Motagua, almost as beautiful by morning as by evening light. In an hour we commenced ascending the spur of a mountain; and, reaching the top, followed the ridge. It was high and narrow, commanding on both sides an almost bounclless view, and seemed selected for picturesque effect. The scenery was grand, but the land wild and uncultivated, without fences, enclosures, or habitations. A few cattle were wandering wild over the great expanse, but without imparting that domestic aspect which in other countries attends the presence of cattle. iVe met a few Indians, with their machetes, going to their morning's work, and a man riding a mule, with a woman before him, his arm encircling her waist. I was riding ahead of my companions, and on the summit of the ridge, a little aside from the road, saw a little white girl, perfectly naked, playing before a rancho. As most of the people we met were Indians or Ladinos, I was attracted by her appearance, and rode up to the rancho. The proprietor, in the easy costume of our host of Encuentros, was swinging in a hammock under the portico, and smoking a cigar. At a little distanoo was a shed thatched with stalks and leaves of Indian corn, and called the cocina, or kitchen. As usual, while the don was lolling in his hammock, the women were at work. I rode 011 to the cocina, and dismounted. The party consisted of the mother and a pretty daughter-in-law of about nineteen, and two daughters of about fifteen and seventeen. The reader is perhaps curious auout costumes; but having given him an insight into those of this country, he will not require any farther descriptions. In honour of my visit, the mother snatched np the little girl who had attracted me to the rancho, carried her inside, and slipped over her heao. a garment which, I believe, is generally worn by little girls ; but in a few minutes my young friend disencumbered herself of her finery, and was toddling about with it under her arm. The whole family was engaged in making tortillas. This is the bread of Central and of all Spanish America, and the only species to be now TO MAKE TORTILLAS. 33 found except in the principal towns. At one end of the cocin:1 was an elevation, on which stood a comal or griddle, resting on three stones, and a fire blazing under it. The daughter-in-law had before her an earthen vessel containing Indian corn soaked in lime-water to remove the husk; and, placing a handful on an oblong stone curving inward, mashecl it with a stone roller into a thick paste. The girls took it as it was mashed, and patting it with their hands into flat cakes, laid them on the griddle to bake. 'l'his is repe::ited for every meal, and a great part of the business of the women consists in making tortillas. When Mr. Catherwood arrived the tortillas were smoking, and we stopped to breakfast. They gave us the only luxury they had, coffee made of parched corn, which, in compliment to their kindness, we drank. Like me, Mr. C. was struck with the personal beauty of this family group. ·with the aclvantages of dress ancl education, they might be ornaments in cultivatecl society; but it is decreed otherwise, ancl these young girls will go through life making tortillas. For an hour longer we continued on the riclge of the mountain, then entered a more woody country, and in half an hour came to a largti gate, which stood directly acro!lS the roacl like a tollbar. It was the first token we had seen of indi viclual or territorial boundary, 11,ucl in other countries would have formed a fitting entrance to a princely estate; for the massive frame, with all its posts ancl supporters, was of solicl mahogany. The heat was now intense. We entered a thick woocl and forcled a wilcl strc11,m1 11,cross which pigs were swimming. Soon after we Cll,me to 11, cochineal plantation, and passed througb a long lane thickly borderecl and ovcrslmclecl with shrubs and iTees, close to suffocation. We emerged into an open plain, on which the sun beat with intolernble power; ancl, crossing the plain, 11,t 11,bout three o'clock entered Gualan. There was not a bre11,th of air; the houses and the earth seemecl to throw out heat. I was confusecl, my head swam, and I felt in clm1ger of 11, stroke of the sun. .At that moment there was a slight shock of earthquake. I was unconscious of it, but was almost ov01·powerecl by the excessive heat ancl closeness of atmosphere which accompanied it. We rode up to the house of Dona Bartola, to whom we had a letter of rccommenclation, ancl I cannot clescribe the satisfaction with which I threw myself into a h11,mmock. Shacle ancl quiet restorecl me. For the fm,t time since we left Y zab11,l we changecl our clothes; for the first time, too, we dined. Towarcl evening we strolled through the town. It stands on a table of breccia rock, at the junction of two noLle rfrers, and is encircled by D 34 'l'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. a belt of mountains. One principal street, the houses of one story, with piazzas in front, terminates in a plaza or public square, at thet head of which stands a large church with a Gothic door; and before it, at a distance of ten or twelve yards, was a cross about twenty feet high. The population is about ten thousand, chiefly Mestitzoes. Leaving the plaza, we walked down to the Motagua. On the uank a boat was in process of construction, about fifty feet long and ten wide, entirely of mahogany. Near it a party of men and women were fording the stream, carrying their clothes above their heads; and around a point three women were bathing. There are no ancient associations connected with this place; but the wildness of the scene, the clouds, the tints of the sky, and the setting sun reflected upon the mountains, were beautiful. At dark we returned to tho house. Except for the companionship of some thousands of ants, which blackened the candles and covered everything perishable, we had a room to ourselves. Early in the morning we were served with chocolate and a small roll of sweet bread. 'While at breakfast our muleteer came, reiterating n demand for settlement, and claiming three dollars more than was due. We refused to pay him, and he went away furious. In half an hour an alguazil came to me with a summons to the alcalde. Mr. Catherwood, who was, at the moment, cleaning his pistols, cheered me by threatening, if they put me in prison, to bombard the town. The cabildo, or house of the municipality, was at one side of the plaza. We entered a large room, one end of which was partitioned off by a wooden railing. Inside sat the alcalde and his clerk, and outside was the muleteer, with a group of half-naked fellows as his backers. He had reduced his claim to one dollar, doubtless supposing that I would pay that rather than have any trouble. It was not very respectable to be sued for a dollar; but I looked in his face on entering, and resolved not to pay a cent.-I did n_ot, however, claim my privilege under the law of nations, but defended the action on the merits, and the alcnlde decided in my favour; after which I showed him my passport, and· he asked me inside the bar and offered me a cigar. This over, I had more important business. The first was to hire mules, which could not be procured till the day but one after. Next I negotiated for washing clothes, which was a complicated business, for it was necessary to specify which articles were to be washed, "·hich ironed., and which starched, and to pay separately for washing, ironing, soap, and starch; and, lastly, I negotiated with a tailor for a pair of pantaloons, purchasing separately stuff, lining, buttons, and thread, the tailor finding needles and thimble himself. Toward evening we again walked to the river, returned, nnd taught A MODERN BONA DEA. 35 Doi'ia Bartola how to make tea. By this time the whole town was in commotion preparatory to the great ceremony of praying to the Sant:i Lucia. Early in the morning, the firing of muskets, petards, and rockets had announced the arrival of this unexpected but welcome visitor, one of the holiest saints of the calendar, and, next to San Antonio, the most celebrated for the power of working miracles. Morazan's rise into power was signalized by a persecution of the clergy: his friends say that it was the purification of a corrupt body; his enemies, that it was a war against morality and religion. The country was at that time overrun with priests, friars, and monks of different orders. Everywhere the largest buildings, the best cultivated lands, and a great portion of the wealth of the country were in their hands. Many, no doubt, were good men ; but some used their sacred robes as a cloak for rascality and vice, and most were drones, reaping where they did not sow, and living luxuriously by the sweat of other men's brows. At all events, and whatever the cause, the early part of Morazan's administration was signalized by hostility to them as a class; and, from the Archbishop of Guatimala down to the poorest friar, they were in danger; some fled, others were banished, and many were torn by rude soldiers from their convents and churches, hurried to the seaports, and shipped for Cuba and old Spain, under sentence of death if they returned. The country was left comparatively destitute; many of the churches fell to ruins; others stood, hut their doors were seldom opened; and the practice and memory of their religious rites were fading away. Carrera and his Indians, with the mystic rites of Catholicism ingrafted upon the supel"Stitions of their fathers, had acquired a stronghold upon the feelings of the people by endeavouring to bring back the exiled clergy and restore the influence of the church. Tho tour of the Santa Lucia was regarded as an indication of a change of feeling and government; as a prelude to the restoration of the influence of the church and the revival of ceremonies dear to the heart of the Indian. As such, it was hailed by all the villages through which she had passed; ancl that night she would receive the prayers of the Christians of Gualan. The Santa Lucia enjoyed a peculiar popula1·it.y from her miraculous power over the affections of the young; for any young man who prayecl to her for a wife, or any young woman who prayed for a husband, was sure to receive the object of such prayer; and if the person praying indicated to the saint the individual wished for, the prayer would be granted, provided such individual was net alre:1dy married. It was not surprising that a saint with such ext.rnordinary powers, touching so directly the tenderest sensibilities, created a senn 2 36 '!'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, sation in a place where the feelings, or rather, the passions, are particularly turned to love. Doi'ia Hartola invited us to accompany her, and, setting out, we called upon a friend of hers ; during the whole visit, a servant girl sat with her la.p full of tobacco, making straw cigars for immediate use. Being the first time we had smoked with ladies, it was rather awkward to ask one for a light; but we were so thoroughly broken in that night, that we never had any delicacy afterwards, on that score. The conversation turned upon the saint and her miraculous powers j and when we avowecl ourselves somewhat sceptical, the servant girl, with that familiarity, though not want of respect, which exists throughout Central America, said that it was wicked to doubt; that she had prayed to the saint herself, and two months afterwards she was married, and to the very man she prayed for, though at the time he had no idea of her, and, in fact, wanted another girl. With this encouragement, locking the house, and accompanied by children and servants, we set out to pay our homage to the saint. 'l'he sound of the violin and the firing of rockets indicated the direction of her temporary domicile. She had taken up her residence in the hut of a poor Indian in the suburbs j and, for some time before reaching it,, we encountered crowds of both sexes, and all ages and colours, and in every degree of dress and undress, smoking and talking, and sitting or lying on the ground in every variety of attitude. Room was made for our party, and we entered the hut. It was about twenty feet square, thatched on the top and sides with leaves of Indian corn, and filled with a dense mass of kneeling men and women. On one side was an altar, about four feet high, covered with a clean white cotton cloth. On the top of the altar was a frame with three elevations, like a flower-stand, and on the top of that a case, containing a large wax doll, dressed in blue silk, and ornamented with gold-leaf, spangles, and artificial flowers. This was the Santa Lucia. Over her head was a canopy of red cotton cloth, on which was emblazoned a cross in gold. On the right was a sedan chair, trimmed with red cotton and gold leaf, being the travelling equipage of the saint; and near it were Indians in half-sacerdotal dress, on whose shoulders she travelled; festoons of oranges hung from the roof, and the rough posts were enwrapped with leaves of the sugar-cane. At the foot of the altar was a mat, on which girls and boys were playing; and a little fellow, about six years old, habited in the picturesque costume of a straw-hat, and that only, was coolly surveying the crowd. The ceremony of praying had already begun, and the music of a drum, a violin, and a flageolet, under the direction of the Indian llOW TO GAIN .A. HUSBAND. 37 maste1· of ceremonies, drowned tbe noise of voices. Dona Bartola, who was a widow, and the other ladies of our party, fell on their knees; and, recommending myself to their prayers, I looked on without doing anything for myself, but I studied attentively the faces of those [1,round me. There were some of both sexes who could not strictly be called young; but they did not on th[l,t account pray less earnestly. In some places, people would repel the imputation of being desirous to procure husband or wife; not so in Gualan; they pmyed publicly for what they considered a blessing. Some of the men were so much in earnest, tl)[l,t perspiration stood in large drops upon their faees; and none thought that praying for a husband need tinge the check of a modest maiden. I watched the countenance of a young Indian girl, beaming with enthusiasm and hope; and while her eyes rested upon the image of the saint and her lips moved in prayer, I could not but imagine that her heart was full of some truant, and perhaps unworthy lover. Outside the hut was an entirely different scene. Near by were rows of kneeling men and women, but beyond were wild groups of halfnaked men and boys, setting off rockets and fireworks. As I moved through, a flash rose from under my feet, and a petard exploded so near that the powder singed me; mid turning round, I saw hurrying away my rascally muleteer. Beyond were parties of young men and women dancing by the light of hiazing pine sticks. In a hut at some little distance were two haggard old women, with large caldrons over blazing fires, stirring up and sen,ing out tbe contents with long wooden ladles, and looking like witches dealing ont poison instead of lovepotions. At ten o'clock the prayers to the saint died away, and the crowd separated into groups and couples, and mrtny foll into what in English would be called flirtations. A mat was spread for our part.y ag.iinst the side of the hut, and we all lighted cigars and sat down upon it. Cups made of small gomds, and filled from the ealdrons with a preparation of boiled Indian corn sweetened with various &,lees, were passed from mouth to mouth, each one sipping and passing it on to the next; and this continued, without any interruption, for more than an hour. 1Ve remained on the ground till after midnight, and then were among the first to leave. On the whole, we concluded that praying to the Santa Lucia must lead to matrimony; and I could not but remark that, in the way of getting husbands and wives, most seemed disposed to do something for themselves, and not leave all to the grace of the saint. The next day it was excessively hot, and we remained within doors. 38 TR,WELS IN CEXTRAL AMElUCA, In the evening we visited the padre, who had just returned from a neighbouring village. He was a short, fat man, and had on a white nightcap, a blue striped jacket, and white pantaloons, and we found him swinging in a hammock and smoking a cigar. He had a large household of women and children; but as to the relation in which they stood to him, people differed. He gave us more information in regard to the country than we had yet been able to obtain, and particularly in regard to Copan, a ruined city which we wished to visit. He was familiar with the history of the Indians, and understood thoroughly the character of the present race; and, in answer to our question if they were all Christians, said that they were devout and religious, and had a great respect for the priests and saints. With this he hitched up his bursting pantaloons, and lighted another cigar. We might have smiled at the idea of his confounding his comfortable figure with the saints; but he had so much good sense and good feeling that we were not disposed to be captioue. The next morning our muleteer came, but, through some misunderstanding, he had not mules enough to carry all our luggage. Rather than wait, we started without him, and left part of the baggage for him to bring on to Zacapa the next clay. Leaving Gualan, we had on our right the ~Iotagua River, which had now become to us a friend, and beyond it the great range of the mountains of Vera Paz, six or eight thousand feet high. In an hour we commenced ascending. Soon we were in a wildernses of flowers; shrubs and lmshes were clothed in purple and reel; and on the sides of the mountain, and in the ravines leading down to the river, in the wildest positions, were large trees so covered with red that they seemed a single flower. In three hours we descended from our mountain height, and came once more to the river side, where it was rolling swiftly, and in some places breaking into rapids. We followed for about an hour, and rose again several thousand feet. At two o'clock we reached the village of San Pablo, situated on a lofty table land, looking down upon the river, and having its view bounded by the mountains of Vera Paz. The church stood at the entrance of the village. "\Ve turned our mules loose to graze, and took our meal in the porch. It was a beautiful position, and two waterfalls, shining like streaks of silver on the distant mount.a.in side, reminded us of cascades in Switzerland. W-e procured a guide from the alcalde to conduct us to Zacapa; and, resuming our journey, for two hours more had the same range upon uur right. 'l'he sun was obscmcd, but occasionally it broke through and lighted up the sides of the mountains, while the tops were covered MAKIXG FREE WITil A HOST. 39 with clonds. At four o"clock we bad a distant view of the great plain of Zacapa, bounded on the ovpositc side by a triangular belt of mountains, at the foot of which stood the town. We descended and crossed the plain, which was green and well cultivated; and fording a stream, ascended a rugged bank, and entered the town. It was by far the finest we had seen. 'l'be streets were regular, and th() houses plastered and whitewashed, with large balconied windows and piazzas. The church was two hundred and fifty feet long, with walls ten feet thick, and a fa~adc rich with Moorish devices. It was built in the form of a Latin cross. In one end of the cross was a tailor's shop, and the other was roofle;s. At one coruer was a belfry, consisting of four rough trunks of trees supporting a peaked roof covered with tiles. 'l'wo bells were suspended from a rude beam; aJJd as we passed, a half-naked Indian was standing 011 a platform underneaili, ringing for vespers. "\Ye rode up to the house of Dun :Mariano Durante, one of the largest and be;t in the place, being about a hundred feet front, aud having a corridor extending the whole length, paved with square stones. The door was opened by a respectable-looking St. Domingo negro, who told us, in French, tbat Sei10r Durante was not at home, but that the house was at our s2rvice; and, goiug round to a po rte cochc,·e, alongside, admitted us into a large courtyanl ornamented with trees and flowers, at one side of which was a cabelleria or stable. ,re left our mules in the hands of the servants, and entered a &,la or receptionroom, covering nearly the whole front, with large windows reachin;; do" n to the floor and iron balconies, and furnished with tables, a European bureau, and chairs. In the centre of the room and in the windows hung cages, handsomely made and gikled, contn.iuing beautiful singing-birds of the country, allll two fine canary birds from Havana. This was the residence of two bachelor hrothcrs, who, feeling for the "·ants of travellers in a country entirely destitute of hotels, kept a door always open for their accommodation. We had candles lighted, and made omselves at home. I wa.s sitting at a tal,.lc writing, when we heard the tramp of mules outside, allll a gentleman entered, took off his sword and spurs, and laid his pistols upon the table. Supposing him to be a traveller, like ourselves, we asked him to take a seat; and, when supper was served, invited him to join us. It was not till bedtime that we found we were doing the honours to one of the masters of the house. He must have thought us cool, but 1 flatter uiysclf he ktd no reason to complain of any want of attention. 40 'l'RAYELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER IV. l'URCIIASJNG A BRIDLE-A SCHOOL ANO ITS REGULATIONS---CONVERSAT!ON WITlf AN INDJANCIIJQUUlULA-A CHURCH IN llUJN"S-A VETEllAN OF Tl(E l<'RE:SCH EMPIRE-ST, STEPl[ANOSA LA"!',0 OF MOUNTAINS-AN AF'FATR WITH A 1\HJLETEEB.-A DESERTED VILL_\GE-A RUDE ASSAULT-ARREST-lMPRISONMl:NT-RELEASE. THE next driy we were obliged to wait for our muleteer. Our guide of tho night before had stolen one of our bridles ; and here we found the beginning of an annoyance which attended us throughout Central Americri, in the difficulty of buying anything reridy made. There was rt blacksmith who had rt bit partly made, but had not charcoal enough to finish it. Fortunately, duriug the day rm Indian arrived with a backload, and the bridle was completed. 'The headstall we bought of a saddler, and the reins, which were of platted leather like the lash of a whip, we were lucky enough to obtain ready made. The arrival of the charcoal enabled the blacksmith to fit us out with one pair of spurs. At Zacapa, for the first time, we saw a school-house. It was a respectable-looking building, with columns in front, and against the wall hnng a large card, headed- "1st Decurion (a student who has the care often other students). 2d Decurion. M0:S11'0R, &c. " Interior regulation for the good government of the school of first letters of this town, which ought to be observed strictly by all the boys c-omposing it," &c. with a long list of complicated articles, declaring the rewards and punishments. The school, for the government of which these regulations were intended, consisted of five boys, two besides the decurions and monitor. It was nearly noon, and the master, who was the clerk of the alcalde, had not yet made his ap}'earance. The only books I saw were a Catholic prayer-book and a translation of Montesquieu's Spirit of the Laws. The boys were fine little fellows, half white ; and with one of them I had a trial of sums in addition, and then of exercises in handwriting, in which he showed himself very proficient, writing in 8panish, iu a hand which T could not mistake, "Give me sixpence." vVe were rather at a loss what to do with ourselves, but in the afternoon our host called in an Indian for the pmpose of enabling us to make a vocabulary of Indian words. The first question I asked him was the name of Goel, to which he answered, Santissima Trinidad, "The CHIQUiil!ULA.. 41 Holy Trinity." Through our host I explained to him that I did not wish the Spanish, but the Indian name, and he answered as before, Santissima Trinidad, or Dios, "God." I shaped my question in a vm·iety of ways, but could get no other answer. He was of a tribe called Chinaute, and the inference was, either that they had never known any Great Spirit who governed and directed the universe, or that they had undergone such an entire change in matters of religion that they had lost their own appellation for the Deity. Our muleteer did not make his appearance till late the next day. In the meantime, I had an opportunity of acquiring much information about the roads and the state of the country; and, being satisfied that so far as regarded the purpose of my mission, it was not necessary to proceed immediately to Guatimala, and, in fact, that it was better to wait a little while and see the result of the convulsions that then distracted the country, we determined to visit Copan. It was completely out of the line of travel, and, though distant only a few days' journey, in a region of country bnt little known, even rtt Zacapa; but our muleteer said that. he knew the road, and made a contract to conduct us thither in three days, arranging the different stages beforehand, and from thence direct to Guatimala . .At seven o'clock the next morning we started. Although both my companion and myself were old travellers,our luggage was in bad packages for travelling with mules over a mountainous country-hard to put on and easy to fall off; and, in keeping with this, we had but one pair of spnrs between us. In an hour we forded the Motagua, still a broad stream, deep, and with a rapid current; and coming out with our feet and legs wet diminished somewhat the regret with which we bade fares,ell for a while to the beautiful river. For an hour longer we continued on the plain of Zacapa, cultivated for corn and cochineal, and divided by fences of brush and cactus. Beyond this the country became broken, arid, and barren, and very soon we commenced ascending a steep mountain. In two hours we reached the top, three or four thousand feet high, and, looking back, had a fine view of the plain and town of Zacapa. Crossing the ridge, we reached a bold precipitous spur, and very soon saw before us another cxtensi ve plain, and, afar off, the town of Chiquimula, with its giant church. On each side were immense mvines, and the opposite heights were covered with pale and rose-coloured mimosa. vVo descended by a long and zigzag path, and reached the plain, on which were growing corn, cochineal, and plantain. Once more fording a stream, we ascended a bank, and at two o'clock entered Chiquimula, the head of the department of that name. In the centre of the plaza was a fine fountain, shaded by palm-trees, at which women were filling their 42 TRA YELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. water-jars, and on the sides were the church and cabildo. In one corner was a house, to which we were attracted by the appearance of a woruan at the door. I may call her a lady, for she wore a frock not open behind, and shoes and stockings, and had a face of uncommon interest, dark, and with finely-pencilled eyebrows. To heighten the effect of her appearance, she gave us a gracious welcome to her house, and in a few minutes the shed was lumbered with our multifarious luggage. After a slight lunch we took our guns, and, walking down to the edge of the table land, saw, what had attracted our attention at a great distance, a gigantic church in ruins. It was seventy-five feet front and two hundred and fifty feet deep, and the walls were ten feet thick. The f:u;ade was adorned with ornaments and figures of the saints, larger than life. The roof had fallen, and inside were huge masses of stone and mortar, and a thick growth of trees. It was built by the Spaniards on the site of the old Indian village; but, having been twice shattered by earthquakes, the inhabitants had deserted it, and built the town where it now stands. The ruined village was now occupied as a campo santo, or burial-place; inside the church were the graves of the principal inhabitants, and in the niches of the wall were the bones of priests and A VETERAN OF TRE FRENCH EMPIRE. 4,3 monkR, with their names written under them. Outside were the graves nf the common people, uutended and uncared for, with the barrow of laced sticks, which had carried the body to the grave, laid npon the top, and slightly covered with earth. The bodies had decayed, the dirt fallen in, and the graves were yawning. Around this scene of desolation and death nature was rioting in beauty; the ground was covered with flowers, and parrots on every bush and tree, and flying in flocks over our heads, wanton in gaiety of colours, with senseless chattering disturbed the stillness of tho grave. We returned to the town, and found about twelve hundred soldiers drawn up in the plaza for evening parade. Their aspect was ferocious and banditti-likc, and it was refreshing to see convicts peeping through the gratings of the prison, and walking in chains on the phza, as it gave an idea that sometimes crimes were punished. With all their ferocity of appearance, the officers, mounted on ]Jrancing mulos or very small horses, almost hidden in saddle-cloth and armour, wore an air bordering upon the mock heroic. While we were looking at them, General Cascara, the commandant of the department, attended by a servant, rode np to the line. He was au Italian, upwards of sixty, who had served under Napoleon in Italy, and on the downfall of the Emperor had fled to Central America. Banished by Morazan, an<l eight years in exile, he had just returned to the country, and six months before had been appointed to this command. He was ghastly pale, and evidently in feeble health; and I could not but think that, if recollections of the pomp of war under the Emperor ever crossed his mind, he must needs blush at his barefooted detachment. He returned to his house, whither we followed and presented our passport. Like the commandant at Yzabal, he seemed ill at ease, and spoke much of the distracted state of the country. He was dissatisfied, too, with the route I proposed taking; and though I told him it was merely to visit the ruins of Copan, he was evidently apprehensive that I intended going to San Salvador to present my credentials to the Federal government. He vised the passport, however, as I required; though, after we left, he called Augustin back, and questioned him very closely as to our purposes. I was indignant, but smothered my feelings in consideration of tho distracted state of the country, and the game of life and death that was then playing throughout the land. We returned to the house and the interesting lady who had welcomed us to it. As yet we did not know whether she was se1iora or seiiorita, but, unhappily, we found that a man whom we supposed her father was her husband. When we inq nired of her about a fine boy ten years old, whom we supposed to be her brother, she answered, "es mio," he is 4-J, TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. mine ; and, as if it was fated that the charm of her appearance should be broken, when, according to the rules of courtesy, I offered for her choice a cigar and a puro, she took the latter. But it was so long since I had seen a woman who was at all attractive, and her face was so interesting, her manners were so good, her voice so sweet, the Spanish words rolled so beautifully from her lips, and her frock was tied so close behind, that, in spite of ten-year-old boy and puro, I clung to my first impressions. The next morning we rose early. Our interesting hostess and her fatherly husband were up betimes to assist us. It would have been an offence to the laws of hospitality to offer them money; but Mr. C. gave the boy a penknife, and 1 put on the finger of the sei'iora a gold ring with the motto, "Souvenir d'amitie." It was in French, and her ht;sband could not understand it, nor, unfortunately, could she. At seven o'clock we started. Passing the ruined church and the old village, we rode over a rich valley so well cultivated with Indian corn that it gave a key to the boy's question, Whether we had come to Chiquimula to buy maize 1 At a league's distance we came to the village of San Estevan, where, amid a miserable collection of thatched huts, stood a gigantic church, like that at Chiquimula, roofless, and falling to ruins. "\Ve were now in a region which had been scourged by civil war. A year before the village had been laid waste by the troops of Morazan. Passing the village, we came upon the bank of a stream, in some places diverted into water-courses for irrigating the land; and on the other side of the stream was a range of high mountains. Continuing along it, we met an Indian, who told our muleteer that the camino real for Copan was on the opposite side of the river, and across the range of mountains. vVe returned and forded the river; a great part of the bed was dry, and we rode along it for some di~tauce, but could find no path that led up the mountain. At length we struck one, but it proved to be a cattle-path, and we wandered for more than an hom; before we found the camino real ; and this royal road was barely a track by which a single mule could climb. It was evident that our muleteer did not know the road, and the region we were entering was so wild that we bad some doubts about following him. At eleven we reached the top of the mountain; aud, looking back, saw at a great distance, and far below us, the town of Chiquimula; on the right, up the valley, the village of St. Helena; and, rising above a few thatched huts, another gigantic and roofless church. On each side were mountains still higher than ours, some grand and gloomy, with their summits buried in the clouds; others in the form of cones and pyramids, AFFAIB WITH A MULETEER, 45 so wild and fantastic that they seemed sporting with the heavens, and I almost wished for wings to fly and light upon their tops. Here, on heights apparently inaccessible, we saw the wild hut of an Indian, with his milpa, or patch of Indian corn. Clouds gathered around the mountains, and for an hour we rode in the rain; when the sun broke through we saw the mountain tops still towering above us, and on our right, far below us, a deep valley. ·we descended, and found it narrower and more beautiful than any we had yet seen, bounded by ranges of mountains severn,l thousand feet high, and having on its left a range of extaordinary beauty, with a red soil of sandstone, without any brush or underwood, and covered with gigantic pines. In front, rising above the miserable huts of the village, and seeming to bestride the vn,Jlcy, was the gigantic church of St. John the Hermit, reminding me of the Church of St.John in the wilderness of Judea, but the situation was even more beautiful. At two o'clock we crossed the stream and entered the village. Opposite the church the muleteer told us that the clay's work was over, but, with all our toils, we had made only fifteen miles, and were unwilling to stop so soon. The exceeding beauty of the place might have tempted us, but the only good plastered hut was occupied by a band of ruffianly soldiers, and we rode on. The mnletcer followed with curses, and vented his spite in lashing the mules. Again we crossed the stream, and continuing up the valley along the dry bed, which bore marks of the flood that washed it in the rainy season, in an hour we crossed it half a dozen times. Heavy clouds rested on the mountains, and again we had rain. At four o'clock we saw on a high table laud on the left, the village of Jocotan, with another gigantic church. According to the route agreed upon with the muleteer, this should have been the end of our first clay's journey. We had been told that the cura could give us much information about the rujus of Copan, and told him to cross over and stop there; but he refused, and, hurrying on the mules, added that we had refused to stop when he wished, and now he would not stop for us. I could not spur my mule beyond her own gait, and, unable to overtake him, jumped off and ran after him on foot. Accidentally I put my hand on my pistols, to steady them in my belt, and he fell back and drew his machete. We came to a parley. Ile said that if we went there we could not reach Copan the next clay; whereupon, willing to make a retreat, and wishing to leave him no excuse for failing, we continued. At six o'clock we rose upon a beautiful table land, on which stood Rnother gigantic church. It was the seveuth we had seen that day, and, coming upon them in a region of desolation, and by mountain 46 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA, paths which hunmn hands had never attempted to improve, their colossal grandeur and costliness were startling, and gave evidence of a retrograding and expiring people. This stood in a more desolate place than any we bad yet seen. The grass was green, the sod unbroken even by a mule path, not a human being was in sight, and even the gratings of the prison had no one looking through them. It was, in fact, a picture of a deserted village. We rode up to the cabildo, the door of which was fastened and the shed barricaded, probably to prevent the entrance of straggling cattle. We tore away the fastenings, broke open the door, and, unloading the mules, sent Augustin on a foraging expedition. In half an hour he returned with one egg, being all that he was able to procure; but he had waked up the village, and the alcalde, an Indian with a silver-headed cane, and several alguazils with long thin rods or wands of office, came down to examine us. \Ve showed them our passport, and told them where we were going, at which, with their characteristic indifference of manner, they expressed no surprise. They could not read the passport, but they examiued the seal and returned it. We asked them for eggs, fowls, milk, &c., to all of which they answered, what afterwards became but too familiar, " no bay," "there is none," and in a few minutes they retired and left us to ourselves. The cabildo was about forty feet long and twenty broad, with plastered walls; its furniture consisted of a brge table and two benches with high backs, and the alcalde sent us a jar of water. \Ve abused the muleteer for stopping at a place where we could got nothing to eat, and made our dinner and supper upon bread and chocolate, taking care not to give him any. There were pegs in the walls for swinging hammocks, and in the evening we prepared for sleep. l\Ir. C. was in bis hammock, and I half undressed, when the door was suddenly burst open, and twenty-five or thirty men rushed in, the alcalde, alguazils, soldiers, Indians, and Mestitzoes, ragged and ferocious-looking fellows, and armed with staves of office, swords, clubs, muskets, and machetes, and carrying blazing pine sticks. At the head of them was a young officer of about twenty-eight or thirty, with a glazed hat and sword, and a knowing and wicked expression, whom we afterward understood to be a captain of one of Carrera's companies. The alcalde was evidently intoxicated, and said that he wished to see my passport again. I delivered it to him, and ho handed it over to the young officer, who examined it, and said that it was not valid. In the meantime, l\Ir. Catherwood and I dressed ourselves. I was not very familiar with the Spanish language, and, through Augustin, explained my official character, and directed him particularly to the endorsements of Com- ARREST. 47 mandant Pei'iol and General Cascara. He paid no regard to my explanations; the alcalde said that he had seen a passport once befoi-e, and that it was printed, and on a small piece of paper not bigger than his hand; whereas mine was the one given by government on a quarto sheet. Besides this, they said that the seal of General Cascara was only that of the department of Chiquimula, and it ought to be that of the State of Guatimala. I did all in my power to show the insufficiency of these objections; but, after a warm altercation, the young man said that 11·0 should not proceed on our journey, but must remain at Comotan until information could be sent to Chiquimula, and orders received from that place. We had no disposition to remain in such hands; threatened them with the consequences of throwing any obstructions in our way; and I at length said that, rather than be detained there and lose time, we would abandon the journey to Copan altogether, and return by the road on which we came; but both the officer and the alcalde said peremptorily that we should not leave Comotan. 'l'he young man then told me to give up my passport. I answered that the passport was given me by my own government; that it was the evidence of my official character, necessary for my personal security, and I would not give it up. Mr. Catherwood made a learned exposition of the law of nations, the right of au ambassador, and the danger of bringing down upon them the vengeance of the government del Norte; which I sustained with some warmth, but it was of no use. At length I told him again that I, would not give up the passport, but offered to go with it myself, under a guard of soldiers, to Chiquimula, or wherever else they chose to send it. He answered, insultingly, that we should 11ot go to Chiquimula, or anywhere else,-neither forward nor backward; that we must stay where we were, and must give up the passport. Finding arguments and remonstrances of no use, I placed the paper inside my vest, buttoned my coat tight across my breast, and told him he must get it by force; and the officer, with a gleam of satisfaction crossing his villanous face, responded that he would. I added that, \Yhatever might be the immediate result, it 11·ould ultimately be fatal to them; to which be answered, with a sneer, that they would run the risk. During the whole time, the band of cowardly ruffians stood with their hands on their swords and machetes, and two asimssin-looking scoundrels sat on a bench, with muskets against their shoulders, and the muzzles pointed within three feet of my breast. If we had been longer in the country, we should have been more alarmed; but as yet we did not know the sanguinary character of the people, and the whole proceeding was so outrageous and insulting that it roused our indignation more than our fears. 48 TllA. VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Augustin, who, from having had a cut across the head with a machete, which did not kill him, was always bellicose, begged me in French to give tho order to fire, and said that one round would scatter them all. "\Ve had eleven charges, all sure : we were excited, and if the young man himself had laid his hands upon me, I think I should have knocked liim down at least; but, most fortunately, before he had time to give his order to fall upon us, a man, who entered after the rest, of a better class, wearing a glazed hat and round-about jacket, stepped forward, and asked to see the passport. I was determined not to trusl it out of my hands, and held it up before a blazing pine-stick while he read it, and, at Mr. Cathcrwood's request, aloud. I have since doubted whether even the officer had road it, or, if so, whether he had communicated its contents ; for it produced an effect upon the alcalde and his algnazils; an<i, after some moments of anxious suspense to us, they forbore to execute their threat., but said that we must remain in custody. I demanded a courier, to carry a letter immediately to General Cascara, which they refused; but on my offering to pay the expense of the courier, the alcalde promised to send it. Knowing General Cascara to be an Italian, and afraid to trust my Spanish, I wrote a note, which Mr. C. translated into Italian, informing him of our arrest and imprisonment; that we had exhibited to the alcaldc and soldiers who arrested us my special passport from my own government, with the endorsements of Commandant Peiiol and himself, certifying my official character, which were not deemed sufficient; demanding to be set at liberty immediately, and allowed to proceed on our journey without farther molestation; and adding that we should, of course, represent to the government at Guatimala, and also to my own, the manner in which we had been treated. Not to mince matters, Mr. Catherwood signed the note aR Secretary ; and, having no official seal with me, we sealed it, unobserved by anybody, with a new American half-dollar, and gave it to the alcalde. The eagle spread his wings, and the stars glittered in the torchlight. All gathered round to examine it, and retired, locking us up in the cabildo, stationing twelve men at the door with swords, muskets, and machetes; and, at parting, the officer told the alcalde that, if we escaped during the night, his head should answer for it. 'l'be excitement over, Mr. C. and I were exhausted. We had made a beautiful beginning of our travels-but a month from home, and in the hands of men who would have been turned out of any decent prison lest they should contaminate tlw inmates. A peep at our beautiful keepers did not reassure us. 'I'hey were sitting under the shed, directly before the door, around a fire, their arms within reach, and TUE RELEASE. 4D smoking cigars. Their whole stock of wearing apparel was not worth a pair of old boots; and with their rags, their arms, their dark faces rerldencd by ihe firelight, their appearance was ferocious; and, doubtless, if we had attempted to escape, they would have been glad of the excuse for murder. We opened a basket of wine with which Colonel l\l'Donald had provided us, and drank his health. We were relieved from immediate apprehensions, but our prospects were not pleasant; and, fastening the door as well as we could inside, we betook ourseh·es once more to our hammocks. During the night, the door was again burst open, and the whole ruffianly hand entered, as before, with swords, muskets, machetes, and blazing pine-sticks. In an instant we were on our feet; and my hurried impression wa~ that they had come to take the passport; but, to our surprise, the alcalde handed me back the letter with the big seal, said there was no use in sending it, and that we were at liberty to proceed on our journey when we chose. We were too well pleased to ask any questions, and to this day do not know why we were anested. M:y belief is, that if we had quailed at all, and had not kept up a high, threatening tone to the last, we should not have been set free ; and I have no doubt that the big seal did much in our behalf. Our inrugnation, however, was not the less strong that we considered ourselves safe in poming it out. We insisted that the matter should not end here, and that the letter should go to General Cascara. The alcalde objected ; but we told him that, if not sent, it would be the worse for him ; aud, after some delay, he thrust it into the hands of an Iuruan, and beat him out of doors with his staff: and in a few minutes the guard was withdrawn, and they all left us. It was now nearly daylight, and we did not know what to do: to continue was to expose ourselves to a repetition of the same treatment, and perhaps, as we advanced farther into the interior, with a worse result. Undetermined, for the third time we turned into our hammocks. At broad daylight, we were again roused by the alcalde and his algnazils; but this time they came to pay us a visit of ceremony. The soldiers, who had accidently passed through the village, and had made all the disturbance, had left. After some deliberation, we determined to continue; and, charging the alcalde again about the letter to General Cascara, turned our hacks upon him and his alguazils. In a few minutes they all withdrew. We took a cup of chocolate, loaded onr mules, and, when we left, the place was as desolate as when we entered. Not a person had been there to welcome us, and there was not one to bid us farewell. Jl 50 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER V. AY ISDIAN FUNERAL-COrAN RIVER- WO?'ilAN'S KI!-DNESS-JfACIENDA OF SAN ANTONIOSTllANG.E CUSTOMS-A :MOUNTAIN 0}' ALOES- Tll.E STATE OF HONDURAS-VILLAGE OF COPAN --AN UNGRAClOUS HOST-WALL OP COP A'S-HISTORY OF COPAN-FIRST VIEW O:P THE RUINSVAIN SPECULATIONS- AI'PLICATIONS FOR :MEDICINE- SEARCH FOR AN ADO DE- A SICK WOMAN-PLAGUES OF A MULETEER-AN UN.PLEASANT SITUATION-A THUNDER STORMTHOUGHTS OF BUYING CO.PAN. Tum,ING away from the church, we passed the brow of a hill, behino. which was a collection of huts almost concealed from sight, and occupied by our friends of the night before. Very soon we commenced ascending a mountain. At a short distance we met a corpse borne on a rude bier of sticks, upon the shoulders of Indians, naked except a piece of cotton cloth over the loins, and shaking awfully under the movements of its carriers. Soon after we met another, borne in the same way, but wrapped in matting, and accompanied by three or fonr men and a young woman. Both were on their way to the graveyard of the village church. Ascending, we reached the top of a mountain, Rnd saw behind us a beantiful valley extending toward J ocotan, but all waste, and suggesting a feeling of regret that so beautiful a country should be in such miserable hands. At half-past twelve we descended to the banks of the Copan River. It was broad and rapid, and in the middle was a large sandbar. We had difficulty in fording it; and some of the baggage, particularly the beds and bedding, got wet. From the opposite side we again commenced ascending another ridge, and from the top saw the river winding through the valley. As we crossed, by a sudden turn it flowed along the base, and we looked directly down upon it. Descending this mountain, we came to a beautiful stream, where a grey-haired Indian woman and a pretty little girl, pictures of youth and old age, were washing clothes. ,v e dismounted, and sat down on the bank to wait for the muleteer. I forgot to mention that he had with him a boy about thirteen or fourteen years old, a fine little fellow, upon whom he imposed the worst part of the bmden, that of chasing tho mules, and who really seemed, like Baron Munchauseu's dog, in danger of running his legs off. Our breach with the muleteer had not been healed, and at first we ascribed to him some agency in our troubles at Comotau. At all events, if it had not been for him, we should not have stopped there. All day he had been particularly furious with tho mules, and they had I I I I l I I I HACIENDA OF SAN ANTONIO. 51 been particularly perverse, and now they had gone astray; and it was an hour before we heard his spiteful voice, loading them with curses. We mounted again, and at four o'clock saw at a distance a hacienda, on the opposite side of a valley. It stood alone, and promised a quiet resting-place for the night. We turned off from the camino real into a wild path, stony, and overgrown with bushes, and so steep that we were obliged to ilismount, let the mules go ahead, and hold on ourselves by the bushes to descend. At the foot of the hill we mounted and crossed a stream, where a little boy, playing in the water, saluted me by crossing his arms upon his breast, and then passed on to Mr. Catherwood. This was a favourable omen; and, as we climbed up a steep hill, I felt that here, in this lonely spot, away from the gathering-places of men, we must meet kindness. On the top of the bill a woman, with a naked child in her arms and a smile on her face, stood watching our toilsome ascent; and when we asked her if we could make posada or lodge there, she answered in the kindest phrase of the country, with a face that spoke even a warmer welcome than her words, "como no 1" "why not 'l" and when she saw that our servant had pineapples in his alforjas, she asked why he brought them, and if he did not know that she bad plenty. The situation of the hacienda of Sau Antonio was wildly beautiful. It had a clearing for a cowyard, a plantation of corn, tobacco, and plantains, and the opening gave · a view of the high mountains by which it was surrounded. The house was built of poles plastered with mud, and against the wall in front of the door was a figure of the Saviour on the cross, on a white cotton cloth bung round with votive offerings. The naked child which the mother carried in her arms was called Maria do los Angeles. While supper was in preparation the master of the house arrived, a swarthy, grim-looking fellow, with a broad-brimm2d sombrero, and huge whiskers, and mounted on a powerful young horse, which he was just breaking to the mountainroa<ls: when he knew that we were strangers asking hospitality, his harsh features relaxed, and he repeated the welcome the woman had given us. Unfortunately, the boy of the muleteer was taken very ill; his master paid no attention to him, and, while tho poor little fellow was groaning under a violent fever, ate on with perfect indifference. "\Ve made him a comfortable bod on the piazza, and Mr. Catherwood gave him a dose of medicine. Our evening passed very differently from the last. Our host and hostess were a kind-hearted and simple couple. It was the first time they had ever met with men from another country, and they asked many questions, and examined our little E2 I 52 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A~!ElUCA. travelling app::iratus, particularly our plated cups, knives, forks, and spoons ; we showed them our watches, compass, sextant, chronometer, thermometer, telescope, &c., and the woman, with great discernment, said that we must be very rich, and had "muchos ideas," "many ideas." They asked ns about our wives, and we learned that our simple-minded host had two, one of whom lived at Hocotan, and that he passed a week alternately with each. We told him that in England he would be transported, and in the North imprisoned for life for such indulgences, to which he responded that they were barbarous countries ; and the woman, although she thought a man ought to be content with one, said that it was no pecado or crime to have two; but I heard them say, sotto voce, that we were " mas Christianos," or better Christians than they. He assisted us in swinging our hammocks, and about nine o'clock we drove out the dogs and pigs, lighted cigars, and went to bed. Including servants, women, and children, we numbered eleven in the room. All around were little balls of fire, shining and disappearing with the puffs of the cigars. One by one these went out, and we fell asleep. In the morning we all rose together. 'l'he boy was much better, but we did not think him in a condition to travel. His brutal master, however, insisted upon his going. For all that our kind friends had done for us, they would have charged us nothing; but, besides compensating them in money, we distributed among them various trifles, and, when bidding them farewell, I saw with regret a ring which I had given her sparkling on his finger. After we had mounted, the little boy whom we had met at the stream came staggering under a load of six freshly-cut pineapples ; and even when we had started, the woman ran after me with a piece of fresh sugar-cane. All parted at the hacienda of San Antonio with kind feelings except our surly muleteer, who was indignant, as he said, that we made presents to everybody except to him. The poor boy was most grateful, but, unfortunately for him, we had given him a knife, which made the muleteer jealous. Almost immediately from the hacienda we entered a thick wood, dense as that of the Mico Mountain, and almost as muddy. The ascent was toilsome, but the top wrts open, and so covered with that beautiful plant that we called it the Mountain of Aloes. Some were just peeping out of the ground, others were twenty or thirty feet high, and some gigantic stalks were dead ; flowers which would have kindled rapture in the breast of beauty, bad bloomed and died on this desolate mountain, unseen except by a passing Indian. In descending we lost the path, and wandered for some time before we recovered it. Almost immediately we commenced ascending another COPAN. 53 mountain, and from its top looked completely over a third, and, at a great distance, saw a large hacienda. Our road lay directly along the edge of a precipice, from which we looked down upon the tops of gigantic pines at a great distance beneath us. Very soon the path became so broken, and ran so near the edge of a precipice, that I called to Mr. Catherwood to dismount. The precipice was on the left side, and I had advanced so far that, on the back of a ]Jerverse mule, I did not venture to make any irregular movement, and rode for some moments in great anxiety. Somewhere on this road, but unmarked by any visible sign, we crossed the boundary-line of the state of Guatimala and entered Honduras. At two o'clock we reached the village of Copan, which consisted of half-a-dozen miserable buts thatched with com. Our appearance created a great sensation. All the men and women gathered around us to gaze. ,Ye inquired immediately for the ruins, but none of the villagers could direct us to them, and all advised us to go to the hacienda of Don Gregorio. ,v e had no wish to stop at a village, aud told the muleteer to go on, but he refused, and said that his engagement was to conduct us to Copan. After a long wrangle we prevailed, and, riding through a coppice, forded once more the Copan River, and came ont upon a ·clearing, on one side of which was a hacienda, with a tile roof, and having cocina and other outbuildings, evidently the residence of a rich proprietor. We were greeted by a pack of barking dogs, and all the doorways were filled with women and children, who seemed in no small degree surprised at our appearance. 'l'here was not a man in sight; but the women received us kindly, and told us that Don Gregorio would retum soon, and would conduct us to the ruins. Immediately the fire was rekindled in the cocina, the sound of the patting of hands gave notice of the making of tortillas, and in half an hour dinner was ready. It was served up on a massive silver plate, with water in a silver tankard, hut without knife, fork, or spoon; soup or caldo was served in cups to be drunk. Nevertheless, we congratulated ourselves upon having fallen into such good quarters. In a short time a young mun arrived on horseback, gaily dressed, with an embroidered shirt, and accompanied by several men driving a herd of cattle. An ox was selected, a rope th1·own around its horns, and the animal was drawn up to the side of the house, and, by another rope round its legs, thrown down. Its feet were tied together, its head drawn hack by a rope tied from its horns to its tail, and with one thrust of the machete the artery of life was severed. The pack of hungry dogs stood ready, and with a horrible clicking, lapped up the blood with their tongues. All the women were looking on, and a young 54 TRAVELS IN CEN'l'RAL AMERICA. girl took a puppy dog and rubbed its nose in the crimson stream, to give it early a taste for blood. The ox was skinned, the meat separated from the bones, and, to the entire destruction of steaks, sirloins, and roasting-pieces, in an hour the whole animal was hanging in long strings on a line before the door. During this operation Don Gregorio arrived. He was about fifty, had large black whiskers, and a beard of several days' growth ; aud, from the behaviour of all around, it was easy to see that he was a domestic tyrant. The glance which he threw at us _before dismounting seemed to say, "vVho are you?" but, without a word, he entered the house. We waited until he bad finished his dinner, when, supposing that to be the favourable moment, I entered the house. In my intercourse with the world I have more than once found my overtures to an acquaintance received coldly, but I never experienced anything quite so cool as the don's reception of me. I told him that we bad come into that neighbourhood to visit the ruins of Copan, and his manner said, What's that to me 1 but he answered that they were on the other side of the river. I asked him whether we could procure a guide, and again he said that the only man who knew anything about them lived on the other side of the river. As yet we did not make sufficient allowance for the distracted state of the country, nor the circumstance that a man might incur danger to himself by giving shelter to suspected persons; but, relying on the reputation of the country for hospitality, and the proof of it which we had already met with, I was rather slow in coming to the disagreeable conclusion that we were not welcome. This conclusion, however, was irresistible. The don was not pleased with our looks. I ordered the muleteer to saddle the mules; but the rascal enjoyed our confusion, and positively refused to saddle his beasts again that day. We applied to Don Gregorio himself, offering to pay him; and, as Augustin said, in the hope of getting rid of us, he lent us two, on which to ride back to the village. Unfortunately, the guide we sought was away; a brisk cock-fight was then pending, and we received no encouragement, either from the appearance of the people or from invitation, to briug back our luggage to that place. And we learned, what was very provoking, that Don Gregorio was the great man of Copan ; the richest man, and the petty tyrant; and that it would be most unfortunate to have a rupture with him, or even to let it be known at the village that we were not well received at his house. Reluctantly, but in the hope of making a more favourable impression, we returned to the hacienda. Mr. C. dismounted on the steps, and took a seat on the piazza. I happened to dismount outside ; and, before moving, took a survey of the party. The don sat on a chair, with our detestable mule- AN UNGRACIOUS HOST, 55 teer by his side, and a half-concealed smile of derision on his face, talking of "idols," aud looking at me. By this time eight or ten men, sons, servants, and labourers, had come in from their day's work, but not one offered to take my mule, or made any of those demonstrations of civility which are always shown to a welcome guest. 'l'he women turned away their heads, as if they had been reproved for receiving us ; and all the men, taking thei1· cue from the don, looked so insulting, that I told Mr. Catherwood we would tumble our luggage into the road, and curse him for an inhospitable churl ; but Mr. Catherwood warned me against it, urging that, if we had an open quarrel with him, after all our trouble we would be prevented seeing the ruins. The don probably suspected something of what passed; and, fearing that he might push things too far, and bring a staiu upon his name, pointed to a chair, and asked me to take a seat. With a great effort, I resolved to smother my indignation uutil I could pour it out with safety. Augustin was very indignant at the treatment we received; on the road he had sometimes swelled his own importance by telling of the flags hoisted and cannon fired when we left Balize ; and here he hoisted more flags and fired more guns than usual, beginning with forty guns, and afterwards going on to a cannonade ; but it would not do. 'l'he don did not like us, and probably was willing to hoist flags, and fire cannons too, as at Balize, when we should go away. Toward evening the skin of an fJX was spread upon the piazza, corn in ears thrown upon it, and all the men, with the don at their head, sat down to shell it, The cobs were carried to the kitchen to burn, the corn taken up in baskets, and th1"<lc pet hogs, which had been grunting outside in expectation of the feast, were let in to pick up the scattered grains. During the evening no notice was taken of us, except, that the wife of the don sent a message by Augustin that supper was preparing; and our wounded pride was relieved, and our discontent somewhat removed, by an additional message, that they had an oven and fl.our, and would bake us some bread if we wished to buy it. After suppe,· all prepared for sleep. 'l'he don's house had two sides, an inside and an out. 'l"hc don and his family occupied the former, and we the latte,·; but we had not even this to ourselves. All along the wall were frames made of sticks about an inch thick; tied together with bark strings, over which the workmen spread an untanned oxhide for a bed. There were three hammocks besides ours, and I had so little room for mine that my body described an inverted parabola, with my heels as high as my head. It was vexatious and ridiculous ; or, iu the words of the English tourist in Fra Diavolo, it was "shocking! positively shocking ! " 56 TRAVELS IN CE:'i'TRAL AMERICA. In the morning Don Gregorio was in the same humour. We took no notice of him, but made our toilet under the shed with as much respect as possible to the presence of the female members of the family, who were constantly passing and repassing. w· e had made up our minds to hold on and see the ruins; and, fortunately, early in the morning, one of the crusty don's sons, a civil young ~nan, brought over from the village Jose, the guide of w horn we stood in need. By reason of many vexatious delays, growing out of difficulties between Jose and the muleteer, we did not get away until nine o'clock. Very soon "ll"e left the path or road, and entered a large field, partially cultivated with corn, belonging to Don Gregorio. Riding some distance through this, we reached a hut, thatched with corn-leaves, on the edge of the woods, at which some workmen were preparing their breakfast. Here we dismounted, and, tying our mules to trees near by, entered the woods, Jose clearing a path before us with a machete; soon we came to the bank of a river, and saw directly opposite a stone wall, perhaps sixty feet high, with trees growing out of the top, running north and south along the river, in some places fallen, but in others entire. It had more the character of a structure than auy we had ever seen ascribed to the aborigines of America, and formed part of the wall of Copan, an ancient city, on whose history books throw but little light. l am entering abruptly upon new ground. Volumes without num" her have been written to account for the first pecpling of America. By some the inhabitants of this continent have been regarded as ROBERTSOl'i'S ACCOUl'iT FAULTY. 57 a separate race, not descended from the same common father with the rest of mankind; others have ascribed their origin to some remnant of the antediluvian inhabitants of the earth, who survived the deluge which swept away the greatest part of the human species in the days of Noah, and hence have considered them the most ancient race of people on the earth. Under the broad range allowed by a descent from the sons of Noah, the Jews, the Canaanites, the Phreuicians, the Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Scythians in ancient times; the Chinese, the Swedes, the Norwegians, the Welsh, and the Spaniards in modern, have had ascribed to them the honour of peopling America. The two continents have been joined together and rent asunder by the shock of an earthquake; the fabled island of Atlantis has been lifted out of the ocean; and, not to be behindhand, an enterprising American has turned the ta bles on the Old World, and planted the ark itself within the State of New-York. The monuments and architectural remains of the aborigines have heretofore formed but little part of the groundwork fur these speculations. Dr. Robertson, in his History of America, lays it down as "a certain principle, that America was not peopled by any nation of the ancient continent which had made considerable progress in civilization." "The inhabitants of the New World," he says," were iu a state of society so extremely rude as to be unacquainted with those arts which are the first essays of human inge1;mity in its advance toward improvement." Discrediting the glowing accounts of Cortez and his companions, of soldier;;, priests, and civilians, all concurring in representations of the splendour exhibited in the buildings of Mexico, he says that the" honses of the people were mere hnts, built with turf, or mud, or the branches of trees, like those of the rudest Indians." The temple of Cholula was notl1ing more than " a mound of earth, without any steps or any facing of stone, co;-ered with grass and shrubs;" and, on the authority of persons long resident in New Spain, and who professed to have visited every part of it, he says that "there is not, in all the extent of that vast empire, a single monument or vestige of any l.milding more ancient than the conquest." At that time, distrust was perhaps tho safer side for the historian ; but since Dr. Robertson wrote ,i new flood of light has poured upon the world, and the fi eld of American antiquities has been opened. The ignorance, carelessness, and indifference of the inhabitants of Spanish America on this subject are matters of wonder. In the United Stutes, the opening of forests and the discovery of tumuli or mounds and fortifications, extending in ranges from the lakes through the valleys of the Ohio and Mississippi, mummies in a cave in KenLucky, 58 1'ltA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. the inscription on the rock at Dighton, and the ruins of walls and a great city in Arkansas and Wisconsin Territory, had suggested wild and wandering ideas in regard to the first peopling of this country, and the strong belief that powerful and populous uations had occupied it and had passed away, whose histories are entirely unknown. The same evidences continue in Texas, and in Mexico they assume a still more definite form. The first new light thrown upon this subject as regards Mexico was by the great Humboldt, who visited that country at a time when, by the jealous policy of the government, it was almost as much closed against strangers as China is now. No man could have better deserved such fortune. At that time the monuments of the country were not a leading object of research; but Humboldt collected from various sources, information and drawings, particularly of Mitla, or the Vale of thA Dead; Xoxichalco, a mount3,in hewed down and terraced, and called the Hill of Flowers; and the great pyramid or Temple of Cholula he visited himself, of all which his own eloquent account is within reach of the reader. Unfortunately, of the great cities beyond the Vale of Mexico, buried in forests, ruined, desolate, and without a name, Humboldt never heard, or, at least, he never visited them. It is but lately that accounts of their existence reached Europe and the United States. These accounts, however vague and unsatisfactory, had roused onr curiosity, and were the object of onr journey ; though I ought perhaps to say that both Mr. C. and I were somewhat sceptical, and when we arrived at Copan, it was with the hope, rather than the expectation, of finding wonders. Since the discovery of these ruined cities the prevailing theory has been, that they belonged to a race long anterior to that which inhabited the country at the time of the Spanish conquest. With regard to Copan, mention is ma.de by the early Spanish historians of a place of that name, situated in the same region of country in which these ruins a.re found, which then existed as an inhabited city, and offered a formidable resistance to the Spanish arms, though there are circumstances which seem to indicate that the city referred to was inferior in strength and solidity of construction, and of more modern origin. It stood in the old province of Chiquimula de la Sierra, which was conquered by the officers of Pedro de Alvarado, but not one of the Spanish historians has given any particulars of this conquest. In 1530 the Indians of the province revolted, and attempted to throw . off the yoke of Spain. Hernandez de Chaves w.as sent to subdue them, and, after many sanguinary battles, he encamped before Esqui- HISTORY OF COPAN. 59 pulas, a place of arms belonging to a powerful cacique, which, on the fourth day, to use the words of the cacique himself, "more out of respect to the public tranquillity than from fear of the Spanish arms, determined to surrender," and, with the capital, the whole province submitted again to the Spanish dominion. The cacique of Copan, whose name was Copan Calel, had been active in exciting the revolt and assisting the insurgents. Hernandez de Chaves determined to punish him, and marched against Copan, then one of the largest, most opulent, and most populous places of the kingdom. The camp of the cacique, with his auxiliaries, consisted of thirty thousand men, well disciplined, and veterans in war, armed with wooden swords having stone edges, arrows, and slings. On one side, says the historian, it was defended by the ranges of monntains of Chiquimula and Gracios a Dios, and on the opposite side by a deep fosse, and an intrcnchment formed of strong beams of timber, having the interstices filled with earth, with embrasures, and loopholes for the discharge of arrows. Chaves, accompanied by some horsemen, well nrmcd, rode to the fosse, and mnde sign that he wished to hold a conference. The caciquo answered with an arrow. A shower of arrows, stones, and darts followed, which compelled the Spaniards to retreat. The next day Chaves made an attack upon the intrenchment. The infantry wore loose coats stuffed witn cotton, swords and shields; the horsemen wore brcastp !ates and helmets, and their horses were covered. The Copanes had each a shield covered with the skin of the danta ou his arm, and his head guarded by bunches of feathers The attack lasted the whole day. The Indians, with their arrows, javelins, and pikes, the heads of which were hardened by fire, maintained their ground. The Spaniards were obliged to retreat. Chaves, who had fought in the thickest of the battle, was alarmed at the difficulties of the enterprise and the danger to the credit of the Spanish arms, hut received information that in one place the depth of tho ditch which defended Copan was but trifling, and the next day he proceeded to the spot to make an attack there. 'l'he Copanes had watched his movements, and manned the intrenchmeut with their bravest soldiers. The infantry were unable to make a lodgment. The cavalry came to their assistance. 'l'he Indians brought up their whole force, and the Spaniards stood like rocks, impassable to pikes, arrows, and stones. Several times they attempted to scale the intrenchments, and were driven back into the fosse. J\Iany were killed ou both sides, but the battle continued without advantage to either, until a brave horseman leaped the ditch, and, his horse being carried violently with his breast against the barrier, the earth and palisadocs gave way, and tho 60 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. frightened horse plunged arnoug the Indians. Other horsemen followed, and spread such terror among the Copanes, that their lines were broken and they tlcd. Copan Calcl r::tllied at a place where he had posted a body of reserve; but, unable to resist long, retreated, and left Copan to its fate. This is the account which the Spanish historians have given of Copan; and, as applied to the city, the wall of which we saw from the opposite side of the river, it appeared to us most meagre and unsatisfactory; for the massive stone structures before us had little the air of belonging to a city, the intrenchment of which could be broken down by the charge of a single horseman. At this place the river was not fordable; we returned to our mules, mounted, and rode to another p:11-t of the bank, a short distance above. The stream was wide, and in some places deep, rapid, and with a broken and stony bottom. Fording it, we rode along the bank by a footpath encumbered with undergrowth, which Jose opened by cutting away the branches, uutil we came to the foot of the wall, where we again dismounted and tied our mules. The wall was of cut stone, well laid, and in a good state of preservation. "\Ve ascended by large stone steps, in some places perfect, and in others thrown down by trees which had grown up between the crevices, and reached a terrace, the form of which it was impossible to make out, from the density of the forest in which it was enveloped. Our guide cleared a way with his machete, and we passed, as it lay half-buried in the earth, a large fragment of stone elaborately sculptured, and came to the angle of a structure with steps on the sides, in fo1m and appearance, so far as the trees would enable us to make it out, like the sides of a pyrnmid. Divergiug from the base, and working our way through the thick woods, we came upon a square stone column, :1,bout fourteen feet high, and three feet on each side sculptured in very bold relief, and on all four of the sides, from the base to tho top. The front was the figure of a man, curiously and richly dressed, and the face, evidently a portrait, solemn, stern, and well fitted to excite terror. The back was of a different design, unlike anything we had ever seen before, and the sides were covered with hieroglyphics. This our guide called an " Idol;" and before it, at a distance of three feet, was a large block of stone, also sculptured with figures and emblematical devices, which he called an altar. 'l'he sight of this unexpected monument put at rest at once and for ever in our minds all uncertainty in regard to the character of American antiquities, and gave us the assurance that the objects we were in search of were interesting, not only as the remains of an unknown TUE RUINS. 61 people, but as works of art, proving, like newly-discovered historical records, that the people who once occupied the continent of America were not savages. With an interest perhaps stronger than we had ever felt in wandering among the ruins of Egypt, we followed our guide, who, sometimes missing his way, with a constant and vigorous use of his machete, conducted ns through the thick forest, among half-bmied fragments, to fourteen monuments of tho same character and appearance, some with more elegant designs, and some in workmanship equal to the finest monuments of the Egyptians: one displaced from its pedestal by enormous roots; another locked in the close embrace of branches of trees, and almost lifted out of the earth; another hurled to the ground, and bound down by huge vinos and creepers; and one standing, with its altar before it, in a grove of trees which grew around it, seemingly to shade and shroud it as a &'tcre,l tbing,-in the solemn stillness of the woods, it seemed a divinit.y mourning over a fallen people. The only sounds that disturbed the quiet of this buried city were the noise of monkeys moving among the tops of the trees, and the cracking of dry branches broken by their weight. They moved over our heads in long and swift processions, forty or fifty at a time, some with little ones wound in their long arms, walking out to the end of boughs, and holdiug on with their hind feet or a curl of the tail, sprang to a branch of the next tree, and, with a noise like a current of wiud, passed on into the depths of the forest. It was the first time "·e had seen these mockeries of humanity, and, with the strange monuments around us, they seemed like wandering spirits of the departed race guarding the ruins of their former habitations. We returned to the base of the pyramidal structure, and ascended by regular stone steps, in some places forced apart by bushes and saplings, and in others thrown down by the growth of large trees, while some remained entire. In parts they were ornamented with sculptured figures and rows of death's heads. Climbing over the rnined top, we reached a terrace overgrown with trees, and, crossing it, descended by stone steps into an area so covered with trees that at first we could not make out its form, but which, on clearing the way with the machete, we ascertained to be a square, and with steps on all the sides almost as perfect as those of the Roman amphitheatre. 'l.'hc steps wore ornamented with sculpture, and on tho south side, about half way up, forced out of its place by t·oots, was a colossal head, evidently a portrait. We ascended those stops, and reached a broad terrace eighty feet high, overlooking the river, and supported by the wall which we had seen from the opposite bank. The whole terrace 62 '.!'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. was covered with trees, and even at this height from the ground were two gigantic Ceibas, or wild cotton-trees, above twenty feet in circumference, extending their half-naked roots fifty or a hundred feet around, binding down the ruins, and shading them with their widespreading branches. We sat down on the very edge of the wall, and strove in vain to penetrate the mystery by which we were surrounded. Who were the people that built this city1 In the ruined cities of Egypt, even in the long-lost Petra, the stranger knows the story of the people whose vestiges are around him. America, say historians, was peopled by savages; but savages never reared these structures, S[tvages never carved these stones. We asked the Indians who made them, and their dull answer was " Quien sabe?" " who knows 1" There were no associations connected with the place j none of those stirring recollections which liallowed Rome, Athens, and "The world's great mistress on the Egyptian plain;" hut architecture, sculpture, and painting, all the arts which embellish life, had flourished in this overgrown forest ; orators, wal'l'iors, and statesmen, beauty, [tmbition, and glory, had lived and passed away, and none knew that such things had been, or could tell of their past existence. Books, the records of knowledge, are silent on this theme, The city was desolate. No remnant of this race hangs round the ruins, with traditions handed down from father to son, and from generation to generation. It li,ty before us like a shattered hark in the midst of the ocean, her masts gone, her name effaced, her crew perished, and none to tell whence she came, to whom she belonged, how long on her voyage, or what caused her destruction; her lost people to be traced only by some fancied resemblance in the construction of the vessel, and, perhaps, never to be known at all. The place whore we sat, was it a citadel from which [tll unknown people had sounded the trumpet of war! or a temple for the worship of the God of peace1 or did the inhabitants worship the idols made with their own hands, and offer sacrifices on tho stones before them? All was mystery, dark, impenetrable mystery, and every circumstance increased it. In Egypt the colossal skeletons of gigantic temples stand in the unwatered sands in all the nakedness of desolation ; here an immense forest shrouded the ruins, hiding them from sight, heightening the impression and moral effect, and giving an intensity and almost wildness to the interest. Late in the afternoon we worked our way back to the mules, bathed in the clear river at the foot of the wall, and returned to the hacienda. Our grateful muleteer-boy had told of his dreadful illness, and the ex-• A NEW DIFFICULTY. 63 traordinary cure effected by Mr. Catlierwood; and we found at the hacienda a ghastly-looking man, worn down by fever and ague, who begged us for "remedios." An old lady on a visit to the family, who had intended to go home that day, was waiting to be cured of a malady from which she had suffered twenty years. Our medicine-chest was brought out, and this converted the wife of the don into a patient also. Mr. C.'s reputation rose with the medicines he distributed; and in the course of the evening he had under his hands four or five women and as many men. "\Ve wanted very much to practice on the don, but he was cautious. The percussion caps of our pistols attracted the attention of the men; and we showed them the compass nnd other things, which made out· friend at San Antonio suppose we were "very rich," and" had many ideas." By degrees we became on social terms with all the house except the master, who found a congenial spirit in the muleteer. He had taken his ground, and was too dignified and obstinate to unbend. Our new friends made more room for our hammocks, and we had a better swing for the night. In the morning we continued to astonish the people by our strange ways, particularly by brushing our teeth, an operation which, probably, they saw then for the first time. While engaged in this, the door of the house opened, and Don Gregorio appeared, turning his head away to avoid giving us a buenos dios, "good day." We resolved not to sleep another night under his she.cl, but to take our hammocks to the ruins, and, if there was no building to shelter us, to hang them up under a tree. My contract with the muleteer was to stop three clays at Copan; but there was no bargain for the use of tho mules dw-ing that time, and he hoped that the vexations we mot with wonld make us go on immediately. When he found us bent on remaining, he swore ho would not carry the hammocks, and would not remain one day over, but at length consented to hire the mules for that day. . Before we started a new party, who had been conversing some time with Don Gregorio, stepped forward, and said that he was the owner of " the idols;" that no one could go on the land without his permission i and handed me his title papers. This was a new difficulty. I was not disposed to dispute his title, but read his papers as attentively as if I meditated an action in ejectment; and he seemed relieved when I told him his title was good, and that, if not disturbed, I would make him a compliment at parting. l•'ortunatcly, he had a favour to ask. Our fame as physicians had reached the village, and he wished rcmedios for a sick wife. It was important to make him our friend; and, after some conversation, it was arranged that Mr. C., with several work- 64 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. men whom we had hired, should go on to the ruins, as we intended, to make u lodgment there, while I would go to the village and visit his wife. Our new acquaintance, Don Jose 11Iuria Asebedo, wus about fifty, tall, und well dressed; that is, his cotton shirt and pantaloons were clean; inoffensive, though ignorant; rind one of the most respcctrible inhabitunts of Copun. He lived in one of the best huts of the village, made of poles thritched with com-leaves, with a wooden frame on one side for n, bed, rind furnished with a few pieces of pottery for cooking. A berivy rain bad frillen during the night, rind the ground inside the hut was wet. His wife seemed as old as he, and fortunately, was suffering from n, rheumutism of several years' strinding. I Hay fortunately, but I spertk only in reference to ourselves as medical men, and the honour of the profession accidentally confided to our hands. I told her that if it had been a recent affection, it would be more within the reach of art ; but, as it was a case of old standing, it required time, skill, watching of symptoms, and the effect of medicine from day to drty; and, for the present, I advised her to take her feet out of rt puddle of water in which she was standing, and promised to consult l\Ir. Catherwood, who was even a better medico than I, and to send her a liniment with which to bathe her neck. This over, Don Jose Maria accompanied me to the ruins, where J found l\Ir. Catherwood with the Indian workmen. Again we wandered over the whole ground in search of some ruined building in which we could take up our abode, but there was none. To haug up our hammocks under the trees "-us madness; the branches were still wet, the ground muddy, and again there was a prospect of early rain; but we were determined not to go back to Don Gregorio's. Don l\fariano said that there was a hut near by, and conducted me to it. As we approached, we heard the screams of a woman inside, and entering, saw her rolling and tossing on a bull's-hide bed, wild with fever and pain; and, starting to her knees at the sight of me, with her hands pres~ed against her temples, and tears bursting from her eyes, she begged me, for the love of God, to give her some remedios. Iler skin was hot, her pulse very high; she had a violent intermitting fever. While inquiring into her symptoms, her husband entered the hut, a white man, about forty, dressed in a pair of dirty cotton drawers, with a nether garment hanging outside, a handkerchief tieu around his head, find barefooted; and his name was Don Miguel. I told him that we wished to pass a few days among the ruins, and asked permission to stop at his hut. The woman, most happy at having a skilful physician near her, answered for him, and I returned to relieve Mr. Catherwoou, I t I I I I ,1 J I ,, ll j DESCRIPTION OF A IIUT. 65 and add another to his list of patients. The whole party escorted us to the hut, bringing along only the mule that carried the hammocks; and by the addition of Mr. C. to the medical corps, aud a mysterious display of drawing materials aud measuring rods, the poor woman's fever seemed frightened away. The hut stood on the edge of a clearing, on the ground once co,cred by the city, with a stone fragment, hollowed out and used as a drinkingvessel for cattle, almost at the very door. The clearing was planted with coru and tobacco, and bounded on each side hy the forest. The hut was about sixteen feet square, with a peaked roof, thatched with husks of Indian corn, made by setting in the ground two upright poles, with crotches in which another pole was laid to support the peak of the roof, and similar supports on each side, but only about four feet l,igh. 'l'he gable end was the front, and one half of it was thatched with cornF 66 TRAVELS IN CEN'rRAL AMERICA. leaves, while the other remained open. The back part was thatched, and piled up against it was Indian corn three ears deep. On one side the pile was unbroken, but on the other it was used down to within three or four feet of the ground. In the corner in front \\'as the bed of Don Miguel and his wife, protected by a bull's hide fastened at the head and side. The furniture consisted of a stone roller for mashing corn, and a coma! or earthen griddle for baking tortillas ; and on a rude shelf over the bed \\'ere two boxes, which contained the wardrobe and all the property of Don Miguel and his wife, except Bartolo, their son and heir, an overgrown lad of twenty, whose naked body seemed to have burst up out of a pair of boy's trousers, disdaining a shirt, his stomach swollen by a distressing liver complaint, and that and his livid face clouden with dirt. There was only room enough for one hammock, aud, in fact, the cross-sticks were not strong enough to support two men. The pile of corn which ban been used down was just high and broad enough for a bed ; by consent, I took this for my sleeping-place, and Mr. Catherwood hung up his hammock ; we were so glad at being relieved from the churlish hospitality of Don Gregorio, and so near the ruins, that all seemed snug and comfortable. After a noonday meal I mounted the luggage-mule, with only a halter to hold her, and, accompanied by Augustin on foot, set out for Don Gregorio's, for the purpose of bringing over the luggage. The heavy rains had swollen the river, and Augustin was obliged to strip himself in order to ford it. Don Gregorio was not at home; and the muleteer, as usual, glad of a difficulty, said that it was impossible to cross the river with a cargo that day. Regularly, instead of helping us in our little difficulties, he did alJ that he could to increase them. He knew that, if we discharged him, we could get no mules in Copan except by sending off two days' journey; that we had 110 one on whom we could rely to send; and that the delay would be at least a week. Uncertain at what moment it might be advisable to leave, and not wishing to be left destitute, I was compelled to hire him to remain, at a price which was considered so exorbitant that it gave me a reputation for having "mucha plata," much money, which, though it might be useful at home, I did not covet at Copan; and, afraid to trust me, the rascal stipulated for daily payments. At that time I was not acquainted with the cash system of business prevailing in the country. The barbarians are not satisfied with your custom unless you pay them besides; and the whole, or a large portion, must be in advance. I was accidcnta1ly in arrears to the muleteer ; and, while I was congratufating myself on this only security for his good behaviour, he was torturing himself with the apprehension that I did not mean to pay at all. A TIIUNDER STORM. 67 In the meantime it began to rain ; and, settling my accounts with the sei'iora, thanking her for her kindness, leaving an order to have some bread baked for the next day, and taking with me an umbrella and a blue bag, contents unknown, belonging to Mr. Catherwood, which he had particularly requested me to bring, I set out on my return. Augustin followed with a tin teapot, and some other articles for immediate use. Entering the woods, the umbrella struck against the branches of the trees, and frightened the mule; and, while I was endeavoming to close it, she fairly ran away with me. Having only a halter, I could not hold her ; and knocking me against the branches, she ran through the woods, splashed into the river, missing the fording place, and never stopped till she was breast-deep. The river was swollen and angry, and the rain pouring down. Rapids were foaming a short distance below. In the effort to restrain her, I lost Mr. Catherwood's blue bag, caught at it with the handle of the umbrella, and would have saved it if the beast had stood still; but as it floated under her nose she snorted and started back. I broke the umbrella in driving her across; and, just as I touched the shore, saw the bag floating toward the rapids, and Augustin, with his clothes in one hand and the teapot in the other, both above his head, steering down the river after it. Supposing it to contain some indispensable drawing materials, I dashed among the thickets on the bank in the hope of intercepting it, but became entangled among branches and vines. I dismounted and tied my mule, and was two or three minutes working my way to the river, where I saw Augustin's clothes and the teapot, but nothing of him, and, with the rapids roaring below, had honible apprehensions. It was impossible to continue along the bank; so, with a violent effort, I jumped across a rapid channel to a ragged island of sand covered with scrub bushes, and, running down to the end of it, saw the whole face of the river and the rapids, but nothing of Augustin. I shouted with all my strength, and, to my inexpressible relief, heard an answer, but, in the noise of the rapids, very faint ; presently he appeared in the water, working himself around a point, and hauling upon the bushes. Relieved about him, I now found myself in a quandary. The jump back was to higher ground, the stream a torrent, and, the excitement over, I was afraid to attempt it. It would have been exceedingly inconvenient for me if Augustin had been drowned. Making his way through the bushes and down to the bank opposite with his dripping body, be stretched a IJOle across the stream, by spriuging upon which I touched the edge of the bank, slipped, but hauled myself up by the bushes with the aid of a lift from Augustin. All this time it was raining very hard; and now I had forgotten where I tied my mule. We were several minutes lookF' 2 ' 68 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. ing for her ; and wishing everything but good luck to the old bag, I mounted. Augustin, principally because he could carry them more conveniently on his back, put on his clothes. Reaching the village, I took shelter in the hut of Don Jose Maria, while Augustin, being in that happy state that cannot be made worse, continued through the rain, and the moment it abated I followed. I had another stream to cross, which was also much swollen, and the road was flooded. The road lay through a thick forest; very soon the clouds became blacker than ever; on the left was a range of naked mountains, the old stone quarries of Copan, along which the thunder rolled fearfully, and the lightning wrote angry inscriptions on its sides. An English tourist in the United States admits the superiority of our thunder and lightning. I am pertinacious on all points of national honour, but concede this in favour of the tropics, The rain fell as if floodgates were opened from above; and while my mule was slipping and sliding through the mud I lost my road. I returned some distance, and was again retracing my steps, when I met a woman, barefooted, and holding her dress above her knees, who proved to be my rheumatic patient, the wife of Don Jose Maria. While inquiring the road, I told her that she was setting at nought the skill of the physician, and added, what I believed to be very true, that she need not expect to get well under our treatment. I rode on some distance, and again lost my way. It was necessary to enter the woods on the right. I had come out by a footpath which I had not noticed particularly. There were cattle-paths in every direction, and within the line of a mile I kept going in and out, without hitting tho right one. Several times I saw the prints of Augustin's feet, but soon lost them in puddles of water, and they only confused me more; at length I came to a complete stand-still. It was nearly dark; I did not know which way to turn; and as Mr. Henry Pelham did, when in danger of drowning in one of the gutters of Paris, I stood still and hallooed. To my great joy, I was answered by a roar from Augustin, who had been lost longer than I, and was in even greawr kibulation. He had the teapot in his hand, the stump of an unlighted cigar in his mouth, was plastered with mud from his head to his heels, and altogether a most distressful object. We compared notes, and, selecting a path, shouting as we went, our united voices were answered by the barking of dogs and Mr. Catherwood, who, alarmed at our absence, and apprehending what had happened, was coming out with Don :Miguel to look for us. All the evening peals of thunder crashed over our heads, lightning illuminated the dark forest and flashed through the open hut, the rain fell in torrents, and Don Miguel said that there was a prospect of being AN OPERATION IN PROSPECT. 69 cut off for several days from all communication with the opposite side of the river, and from our luggage. Nevertheless, we passed the evening with great satisfaction, smoking cigars of Copan tobacco, the most famed in Central America, of Don Miguel's own growing and his wife's own making. Don Miguel, like myself that evening, ),.ad but little wearing apparel; but he was an intelligent and educated man, could read and write, bleed, and draw teeth, or a law paper; literary in his tastes, for he asked Augustin if we had any books: he said their being in English made no difference-books wern good things; and it was delightful to hear him express his contempt for the understanding of Don Gregorio. He was a sub-tenant on the estate, at a rent of four dollars a-year, and was generally behindhand in his payments : he said he had not much to offer us; but we felt, what was better than a canopied bed, that we were welcome guests. In fact, all were pleased. His wife expected us to drive away her fever and ague; Bartolo made sure that we would reduce the protuberance of his stomach; and Don Miguel liked our society. In these happy circumstances, the raging of the elements without did not disturb us. All day I had been bxooding over the title-deeds of Don Jose Maria, and, drawing my blanket m:ound me, suggested to Mr. Catherwood "an operation." (Hide your heads, ye speculators in building lots !) To buy Copan ; remove the monuments of a bygone people from the desolate region in which they were buried, set them up in the "great commercial emporium," and found an institution to be the nucleus of a great national museum of American antiquities! But quere, could the "idols" be removed! They were on the banks of a river that emptied into the same ocean by which the docks of New York are washed, but there were rapids below; and, in answer to my inquiry, Don Miguel said these were impassable. Nevertheless, I should have been unworthy of having originated so bright an idea if I had not had an alternative; and this was to exhiLit by sample : to cut one up and remove it in pieces, and make casts of the rest. Other ruins might be discovered even more interesting and more accessible; and so, with visions of glory and indistinct fancies of recci ving the thanks of the corporation flitting before my eyes, I drew my blanket around me, and fell asleep. i'O TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER VI. HOW TO DP.GIN-COMMENCEMENT OF EXPLORATIONS-INTEREST CREATED DY THESE' RUINSVISIT FROM THE ALCALDE-VEXATIOUS SUSPICIONS-A WELCOME VISITOR-LETTER. PHOM OENERAL CASCARA-.BUUNG A CITY-VISIT li'ROM DON GREGOlUO'S FAMILY-DISTll.lBUTION OF MEDICU'ES, AT daylight the clouds still hung over the forest; as the sun rose they cleared away; our workmen made their appearance, and at nine o'clock we left the hut. The branches of the trees were dripping wet, and the ground very muddy. Trudging once more over the district which contained the principal monuments, we were startled by the immensity of the work before us, and very suon we concluded that to explore the whole extent would be impossible. Our guides knew only of this district; but having seen columns beyond the village, a league distant, we had reason to believe that others were strewed in different directions, completely buried in the woods, and entirely unknown, 'l.'he woods were so dense that it was almost hopeless to think of penetrating them. The only way to make a thorough exploration, would be to cut down the whole forest, and burn the trees. This was incompatible with our immediate purposes, might be considered taking liberties, and could only be done in the dry season. After deliberation, we resolved first to obtain drawings of the sculptured columns. Even in this there was great difficulty, The designs were very complicated, and so different from anything Mr. Catherwood had ever seen before as to be perfectly unintelligible. The cutting was in very high relief, and required a strong body of light to bring up the figures; and the foliage was so thick, and the shade so deep, that drawing was impossible. After much consultation, we selected oue of the "idols," and determined to cut down the trees around it, and thus lay it open to the rays of the sun. Here again was difficulty. There was no axe; and the only instrument which the Indians possessed was the machete, or chopping-knife, which varies in form in different sections of the country; wielded with one hand, it was useful in clearing away shrubs and branches, but almost harmless upon large trees; and the Indians, as in the days when the Spaniards discovered them, applied to work without ardour, carried it on with little activity, and, like children, were easily diverted from it. One hacked into a tree, and, when tired, I I J Ili:TERESTING EXPLORATIONS. 71 which happened very soon, sat down to rest, and another relieved him. While one worked there were always several looking on. I rcmembere<l the ring of the woodman's axe in the forests at home, and wished for a few long-sided Green Mountain boys. But we had been buffeted into patience, and watched the Indians while they hacked with their machetes, and even wondered that they succeeded so well. At length the trees were felled and ili:agged aside, a space cleared around the base, Mr. C.'s drawing-stand set up, and he set to work. I took two Mestitzoes, Bruno and Francisco, and, offering them a, reward for every new discovery, with a compass in my hand, set out on a tour of exploration. Neither had seen "the idols " until the morning of our first visit, when they followed in our train to laugh at los Inglescs; but very soon they exhibited such an interest that I hired them. Bruno first a.ttracted my attention by his admiration, as I supposed, of my person; but I found it was of my coat, which was a long shootingfrock, with ma.ny pockets; and he said that he could make one just like it, except the skirts. He was a tailor by profession, and in the intervals of a great job upon a roundabout jacket, worked with his machete. But he had an inborn taste for the arts. As we passed through the woods, nothing escaped his eye, and he was professionally curious touching the costumes of the sculptured figm·es. I was strnck with the first development of their antiquarian taste. Francisco found the feet and legs of a statue, and Bruno a, part of the body to match, and the effect was electric upon both. They seru:ched and raked up the ground with their machetes till they found the shoulders, and set it up entire except the head; and they were Loth eager for the possession of instrnments with which to dig and find this remaining fragment. It is impossible to describe the interest with which I explored these ruins. The ground was entirely new; there were no hand-books or guides; the whole was a virgin soil. We could not see ten yards before us, and never knew what we should stumble upon next. At one time we stopped to cut away branches and vines which concealed the face of a monument, and then to dig around and bring to light a fragment, a sculptured corner of which protrnded from the earth. I leaned over with breathless anxiety while the Indians worked, and an eye, an ear, a foot, or a hand was disentombed; and when the machete rang against the -chiselled stone, I pushed the Indians away, and cleared out the loose earth with my hands. The beauty of the sculpture, the solemn stillness of the woods, disturbed only by the scrambling of monkeys and the chattering of parrots, the desolation of the city, and the mystery that hung over it, all created an interest higher, if possible, than I bad ever felt among the rnins of the Old 72 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. World. After several hours' absence I returned to Mr. Catherwood, and reported upwards of fifty objects to be copied. I found him not so well pleased as I expected with my report. He was standing with his feet in the mud, and was drawing with his gloves on, to protect his hands from the moschetoes. As we feared, the designs were so intricate and complicated, the subjects so entirely new and unintelligible, that he had great difficulty in drawing. He had made several attempts, both with the camera lucida and without, but failed to satisfy himself or even me, who was less severe in criticism. The " idol" seemed to defy his art; two monkeys on a tree on one side appeared to be laughing at him, and I felt discouraged and despondent. In fact, I made up my mind, with a pang of regret, that we must abandon the idea of carrying away any materials for antiquarian speculation, and must be content with having seen them ourselves. Of that satisfaction nothing could deprive us. w·e returned to the hut with our interest undiminished, but sadly out of heart as to the result of our labours. Our luggage had not been able to cross the river, but the blue bag which had caused me so many troubles was recovered. I had offered a dollar reward, and Bartolo, the heir-apparent of the lesseeship of our hut, had passed the day in the river, and found it entangled in a bush upon the bank. His naked body seemed glad of its accidental washing, and tho bag, which we supposed to contain some of Mr. C.'s drawing materials, being shaken, gave out a pair of old boots, which, however, were at that time worth their weight in gold, being waterproof, and cheered Mr. Catherwood's drooping spirits, who was ill with a prospective attack of fever and ague or rheumatism, from standing all day in the mud. Our men went home, and Francisco had orders, before coming to work in the morning, to go to Don Gregorio's and buy bread, milk, candles, lard, and a few yards of beef. The door of the hut looked toward the west, and the sun set over the dark forest in front, with a gorgeousness I have never seen surpassed. Again, during the night, we had rain, with thunder and lightning, but not so violent as the night before, and in the morning it was again clear. That day Mr. Catherwood was much more successful with his drawing ; indeed, at the beginning the light fell exactly as he wished, and he mastered the difficulty. His preparations, too, ·were much more comfortable, as he had his water-proofs, and stood on a piece of oiled canvass, used for covering luggage on the road, I passed the morning in selecting another monument, clearing away the trees, and preparing it for him to copy. At one o'clock A ugustiu came to call us to dinner. Don Miguel had a patch of beans, from which Augustin gathered as VISIT FROM THE ALCALDE. 73 many as he pleased, and, with the fruits of a standing order for all the eggs in the village, being three or four a day, strings of beef, and bread and milk from the hacienda, we did very well. In the afternoon we were again called off by Augustin, with a message that the alcalcle had come to pay us a visit. As it was growing late, we broke up for the day, and went back to the hut. We shook hands with the alcalde, and gave him and his attendants cigars, and were disposed to be sociable ; but the dignitary was so tipsy he could hardly speak. His attendants sat crouching on the ground, swinging themselves on their knee~oints, and, though the positions were different, reminding us of the Arabs. In a few minutes the alcalde started up suddenly, made a staggering bow, and left us, rind they all followed, Don Miguel with them. While we were at supper he returned, and it was easy to see that he, and his wife, and Bartolo were in trouble, and, as we feared, the matter concerned us. While we were busy with our own affairs, we had but little idea what a sensation we were creating in the village. Not satisfied with getting us out of his house, Don Gregorio wanted to get us out of the neighbourhood. Unluckily, besides his instinctive dislike, we had offended him in drawing off some ol' his workmen by the high prices which, as strangers, we were obliged to pay, and he began to look upon us as rivals, and said everywhere that we were suspicious characters; that we should be the cause of disturbing the peace of Copan, and introducing soldiers and war into the neighbourhood-, In confirmation of this, two Indians passed through the village, who reported that we had escaped from imprisonment, had been chased to the borders of Honduras by a detachment of twenty-five soldiers unde1· Landaveri, the officer who arrested us, and that, if we had been taken, we should have been shot, 'l'he alcalde, who had been drunk ever since our arrival, resolved to visit us, to solve the doubts of the village, and take those measures which the presence of such dangerous J_Jersons and the safety of the country might require. But this doughty purpose was frustrated by a lndicrous circumstance. ,v e made it a rule to carry our arms with us to the ruins, and when we returned to the hut to receive his visit, as usual, each of us had a brace of pistols in bis belt and a gun in hand; and our appearance was so formidable that the alcalde was frightened at his own audacity in having thought of catechising us, and fairly sneaked off. As soon as he reached the woods, his attendants reproached him for not executing his purpose, but he said, doggedly, that he was not going to have anything to say to men armed as we were. Roused at the idea of our terrible appearance, we told Don Miguel to advise the alcaldc and the people of the village that they had better keep out of our way and let us alone. Don Miguel gave a ghastly smile ; but all 74 TRAVELS IN CEN'l'.RAL AlllERICA. was not finished. He said that he had no doubt himself of our being good men, but we were suspected; the country was in a state of excitement; and he was warned that he ought not to harbour us, and would get into difficulty by doing so. The poor woman could not conceal her distress. Her head was full of assassinations and murders, and though alarmed for their safety, she was not unmindful of ours; she said that, if any soldiers came into the village, we should be murdered, and begged us to go away. "\Ve were cxceeJingly vexed and disturbed by these communications; but we had too much at stake to consent to be driven away by apprehensions. "\Ve assured Don Miguel that no harm could happen to him; that it was all false and a mistake, and that we were above susp1c10n. At the same time, in order to convince him, I opened my trunk, and showed him a large bundle of papers, sealed credentials to the government, and private letters of introduction in Spanish to prominent men in Guatimala, describing me as "Encargado de los Negocios de los Estados Uni dos del Norte," and one very special from Don Antonio Aycinena, formerly colonel in the Central army, and banished by Morazan, to his brother the Marquis Aycinena, the leader of the Uentral party, which was dominant in that district in the civil war then raging, recommending me very highly, and stating my purpose of travelling through the country. This last letter was more important ilhan anything else; and if it had been directed to one of the opposite party in polities, it would have been against us, as confirming the suspicion of our being "enemigos." Never was greatness so much under a shade. '!.'hough vexatious, it was almost amusing to be obliged to clear up our character to such a miserable party as Don Miguel, his wife, and Bartolo; but it was indispensable to relieve them from doubts and anxieties, enabling us to remain quietly in their wretched hut; and the relief they experienced, and the joy of the woman in learning that we were tolerably respectable people, not enemies, and not in danger of being put up and shot at, were most grateful to us. Nevertheless, Don Miguel advised us to go to Guatimala or to General Cascara, procure an order to visit the ruins, and then return. ,v e had made a false step in one particular; we should have gone direct to Guatimala, and then returned with a passport and letters from the government; but, as we had no time to S]Jare, and did not know what there was at Copan, probably if we had not taken it on the way we should have missed it altogether. And we did not know that the country was so completely secluded; the people are less accustomed to the sight of strangers than the Arabs about Mount Sinai, A WELCOME VISITOR, 75 and they are much more suspicious. Colonel Galindo was the only stranger who had been there before us, and he could hardly be called a stranger, for he was a colonel in the Central American service, and visited the ruins under a commission from the government. Our visit has, perhaps, had some influence upon the feelings of the people; it has, at all events, taught Don Gregorio that strangers arc not easily got rid of; but I advise any one who wishes to visit these ruins in peace, to go to Guatimala first, and apply to the governmeut for all the protection it can give. As to us, it was too late to think of this, and all we had to do was to maintain our ground as quietly as we could. We had no apprehension of soldiers coming from any other place merely ~o molest us. Don Miguel told us, what we had before observed, that there was not a musket in the village; the quality and excellence of our arms were well known; the muleteer had reported that we were outrageous fellows, and had threatened to shoot him; and the alcalde was an excessive coward, We formed an alliance, offensive and defensive, with Don Miguel, his wife, and Bartolo, and went to sleep. Don Miguel and his wife, by-the-way, were curious people; they slept with their beads at different ends of the bed, so that, in the unavoidable accompaniment of smoking, they could clear each other. In the morning we were relieved from our diffiuulty, and put in a position to hurl defiance at tho traducers of our character. While the workmen were gathering outside the hut, an Indian courier came trotting through the cornfield up to the door, who inquired for Seiior Ministro; and pulling off his petate, took out of the crown a letter which he said he was ordered by General Cascara to deliver into the right hands. It was directed to "Senor Catherwood, a Comotan 6 donde se halle," conveying the expression of General Cascara's regret for the arrest at Comotau, ascribing it to the ignorance or mistake of the alcalde and soldiers, and enclosing, besides, a separate passport for l\fr. Catherwood. I have great satisfaction in acknowledging the receipt of this letter; antl the promptness with which General Cascara despatched it to "Comotan, or wherever he may be found," was no less than I expected from his character and station. I requested Don Miguel to read it aloud, told the Indian to deliver our compliments to General Cascara, and sent him to the village to breakfast, with a donation which I knew would make him publish the story with right emphasis and discretion. Don Miguel smilocl, his wife laughed, and a few spots of white flashed along Bartolo's dirty skin. Stocks rose, and I resolved to ride to the village, strengthen the cords of friendship with Don J oso Maria, visit our patients, defy Don Gregorio, and get up a party in Copan. 76 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Mr. Catherwood went to the ruins to continue his drawings, and I to the village, taking Augustin with me to fire the Balize guns, and buy up eatables for a little more than they were worth. My first visit was to Don Jose Maria. After clearing up our character, I broached the subject of a purchase of the ruins; told him that, on account of my public business, I could not remain as long as I desired, but wished to return with spades, pickaxes, ladders, crowbars, and men, build a hut to live in, and make a thorough exploration; that I could not incur the expense at the risk of being refused permission to do so; and, in short, in plain English, asked him, "What will you take for the ruins 1" I think he was not more surprised than if I had asked to buy bis poor old wife, our rheumatic patient, to practise medicine upon. He seemed to doubt which of us was out of his senses. The property was so utterly worthless, that my wanting to buy it seemed very susp1mous. On examining the paper, I found that he did not own the fee, but held under a lease from Don Bernardo de Aguila, of which three years were unexpired. The tract consisted of about six thousand acres, for which he paid sixteen pounds a-year; he was at a loss what to do, but told me that be would reflect upon it, consult his wife, and give me an answer at the hut the next day. I then visited the alcalde, but he was too tipsy to be susceptible of any impression; prescribed for several patients; and instead of going to Don Gregorio's, sent him a polite request by Don Jose Maria to mind his own business, and let us alone; returned, and passed the rest of the day among the ruins. It rained during the night, but again cleared off in the morning, and we were on the ground early. My business was to go around with workmen to clear away trees and bushes, dig, and excavate, and prepare monuments for !\Ir. Catherwood to copy. While so engaged, I was called off by a visit from Don Jose Maria, who was still undecided what to do ; and not wishing to appear too anxious, told him to take more time, and come again the next morning. The next morning he came, and his condition was truly pitiable. He was anxious to convert unproductive property into money, but afraid, and said that I was a stranger, and it might bring him into difficulty with the government. I again went into proof of character, and engaged to save him harmless with the government, or release him. Don Miguel read my letters of recommendation, and re-read the letter of General Cascara. He was convinced, but these papers did not give him a right to sell me his land; the shade of suspicion still lingered: for a finale, I opened my trunk, and put on a diplomatic coat, with a profusion of _large eagle buttons. I bad on a Panama hat, soaked with rain and spotted with mud, a check shirt, white I I I I I DISTRIBUTION OF ll!EDICINES, 77 pantaloons, yellow up to the knees with mud, and was about as outre as the negro king who received a company of British officers on the coast of Africa in a cocked hat and military coat, without any inexpressibles; but Don Jose Maria could not withstand the buttons on my coat; tho cloth was the finest he had over seen; and Don M-iguel, and his wife, and Bartolo realized fnlly that they had in their hut an illustrious incognito. The only question was, who should find paper on which to draw the contract. I did not stand upon trifles, and gave Don Miguel some paper, who took our mutual instructions, and appointed the next day for the execution of the deed. The reader is, perhaps, curious to know how old cities sell in Central America. Like other articles of trade, they are regulated by the quantity in market, and the demand; but, not being staple articles, like cotton and indigo, they were held at fancy prices, and at that time were dull of sale. I was to pay fifty dollars for Copan. There was never any difficulty about price. I offered that sum, for which Don Jose Maria thought me only a fool; if I had offered more, he would probably have considered me something worse. We bad reguliu· communications with the hacienda by means of Francisco, who brought thence every morning a liu·go guacal of milk, carrying it a distance of three miles, and forcling the river twice. The ladies of the hacienda had sent us word that they intended paying us a visit, and this morning Don Gregorio's wife appeared, leading a procession of all the women of the house, servants, and children, with two of her sons. We received them among the ruins, seated them as well as we could, and, as the first act of civility, gave them cigars all round. It can hardly be believed, but not one of them, not even Don Gregorio's sons, had ever seen the "idols" before, and now they were much more curious to see Mr. C.'s drawings. In fact, I believe it was the fame of those drawings that procured us the honour of their visit. In his heart Mr. C. was not much happier to see them than the old don was to see us, as his work was stopped, and every day was precious. As I considered myself in a manner the proprietor of tho city, I was bound to do the honours ; and, having cleared paths, led them iu·ound, showing off all the lions as the cicerone does in the Vatican or the Pitti Palace; but I could not keep them away, and, to the distress of Mr. C., brought them all back upon him. OLliged to give up work, we invited them down to the hut to see om accommodations. Some of them were our patients, and reminded us that we had not sent the medicines we promised. 'l'he fact is, we avoided giving medicines when we could, among other reasons, from an apprehension that if any one happened to die on our hands we should 78 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. be held responsible; but our reputation was established; bonoms were buckled on our backs, and we were obliged to wear them. These ladies, in spite of Don Gregorio's crustiness, had al ways treated us kindly, and we would fain have shown our sense of it in some other mode than by giving them physic ; but, to gratify them in their own way, we distributed among them powders and pills, with written directions for use; and when they went away escorted them some distance, and had the satisfaction of hearing that they avenged us on Don Gregorio by praises of our gallantry and attentions. · ACCOUNT OF TIIE RliINS. 79 CHAPTER VII. SURYF.Y OF THE n.Ul NS- ACCOUNT OF THE~( BY ltUAnn.os AND BY COLONEL GALINDO- TIIEIR SITUATION - THEIR EXTENT-PLAN OF SURVEY-l'YHAl\1 1 011. L STRUCTURES - ROWS OF D.EA1'll 1S llEADS-l\E:\IARKADLE PORTRAIT-11 JDOT.S"-Cl!AllACTER OF THE ENGRAV I NGSRANG.ES ov TERRACES-A roRTRAlT-COURTYARDS--CURIOUS Al.TAR-TABLETS OF HIEROGLYPIIICS--OIGANTIC HEAD-STONE QUARRIES-MOUE Al'PL I CANTS FOR ?itEDlC INE-11 I DOLS" AND ALTAllS-DURl.ED U I AGE-MATER I AL OF THE STATUES-IDOLS OR IGI NALLY PAINTEDCIRCULAR ALTAR-ASTIQUITY OF COPAN. THAT night there was no rain, and the next day, as the ground was somewhat dry, we commenced a regular snrvey of the ruins. It was my first essay in engineering. Our surveying apparatus was not very extensive. We had a good surveying compass, and the rest consisted of a reel of tape which Mr. C. had used in a survey of the ruins of Thebes and J erusalem. My part of the business was very scientific. I had to direct the Indians in cutting straight lines through the woods, make Bruno and Francisco stick their hats on poles to mark the stations, and measure up to them. The second day we were thoroughly in the spirit of it. That day Don Jose Maria refused to execute the contract. Don Gregorio was the cause. He had ceased to interfere with us, but at the idea of our actually taking root in the neighbourhood he could not contain himself, and persuaded Don Jose :Maria that he would get into difficulty by having anything to do with us; he even told him that General Cascara's passport was worthless, and that General Cascara himself had gone over to l\forazan. He can·icd his point for the moment, but in the encl we beat him; and a fortnight afterwards l\fr. Catherwood paid the purchase money and completed the contract. After three days of very hard but very interesting labour, we finished the survey, the particulars of which I intend to inflict upon the reader; but before doing so I will mention the little that was previously known of these ruins. Huarros, the historian of Guatimala, says, "Francisco de Fuentes, who wrote the Chronicles of the Kingdom of Guatimala, assures us that in bis time, that is, in the year 1700, the great circus of Copan still remained entire. This was a circular space snrrouncled by stone pyramids about six yards high, and very well constructed. At the bases of these pyramids "·ere figures, both male and female, of very excellent sculpture, which then retained the colours they had been painted with; and what was not less rcmo.rkable, the whole of them 80 '.l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. were habited in the Oastilian costume. In the middle of this area, elevated above a flight of steps, was the place of sacrifice. The same author affirms that at a short distance from the circus there was a portal constructed of stone, on the columns of which were the figures of men, likewise represented in Span-isli habits, with hose, and ruff around the neck, sword, cap, and short cloak. Ou entering the gateway there are two fine stone pyramids, moderately large and lofty, from which is suspended a hammock that contains two human figures, one of each sex, clothed in the Indian style. Astonishment is forcibly excited on viewing this structure, because, large as it is, there is no appearance of the component parts being joined together; and though entirely of one stone, and of an enormous weight, it may be put in motion by the slightest impulse of the hand." From this time, that is, from the year 1700, there is no account of these ruins until the visit of Colonel Galindo in ,1836, before referred to, who examined them under a commission from the Central American government, and whose communications on the subject were published in the Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of Paris, and in the Literary Gazette of London. He is the only man in that country who has given any attention at all to the subject of antiquities, or who bas ever presented Copan to the consideration of Europe and our own country. Not being an artist, his account is necessarily unsatisfactory and imperfect, but it is not exaggerated. Indeed, it falls short of the marvellous account given by Fuentes 135 years before, and makes no mention of the movable stone hammock, with the sitting figures, which were our great inducement to visit the ruins. No plans or drawings have ever been published, nor anything that can give even an idea of that valley of romance and wc,ndcr, where, as has been remarked, the genii who attended on King Solomon seem to have been the artists. It lies in the district of country now known as the State of Honduras, one of the most fertile valleys in Central America, and to this day famed for the superiority of its tobacco. Mr. Catherwood made several attempts to determine the longitude, but the artificial horizon which we took with us expressly for such purposes, had become deranged, and, like the barometer, was useless. The ruins are on the left bank of the Copan, as you ascend, which river empties into the Motagua, and so passes into the Bay of Honduras near Omoa, distant perhaps 200 miles from the sea. The Copan River is not navigable, even for canoes, except for a short time in the rainy season. Falls interrupt its course before it empties into the Motagua. Cortez, in his terrible journey from Mexico to Honduras, of the hardships of which even now, when the country is comparatively open, and free from masses of enemies, it 3UII.F' F. Ca1h1•1·wm,d. No. 5. EXTENT OF THE RUINS. 81 is difficult to form a conception, must have passed within two days' march of this city. 'l'he extent along the river, as ascertained by monuments still found, is more than two miles. There is one monument on the opposite side of the river, at the distance of a mile, on the top of a mountain 2,000 feet high. Whether the city ever Cl'OSSed the river, and extended to that monument, it is impossible to say. I believe not. At the rear is an unexplored forest, in which there may be ruins. There are no remains of palaces or private buildings, and the principal part is that which stands on the bank of the river, and may, perhaps, with propriety be called the Temple. 'fhis temple is an oblong enclosure. The front or river wall extends in a right line north and south 624 feet, and is from sixty to ninety feet in height. It is made of cut stones, from three to six feet in length, and a foot and a half in breadth. In many places the stones have been thrown down by bushes growing out of the crevices, and in one place there is a small opening, from which the ruins are sometimes called by the Indians Las Ventanas, or the windows. The other three sides consist of ranges of steps and pyramidal structures, rising from 30 to 140 feet in height on the slopo. 'l'he whole line of survey is 2,866 feet, which, though gigantic and extraordinary for a ruined stiucture of the aborigines, that the reader's imagination may not mislead him, I consider it necessary to say, is not so large as the base of the great Pyramid of Ghizeh. The engraving opposite gives the plan according to our survey, a reference to which will assist the reader to undcrst:J.nd the doacription, To begin on the right: Near the south-west corner of the river wall and the south wall is a recess, which was probably ouce occupied by a colossal monument fronting the water, no part of which is now visible; it may have fallen and been broken, and tho fragments bmicd or washed away by the floods of the rainy season. Beyond are tho remains of two small pyramidal structures, to the largest of which is attached a wall running aloug the right bauk of the river: this appears to have been one of the principal walls of the city; and between the two pyramids there seems to have been a gateway or principal entrance from the water. The south wall runs at right angles to the river, beginning with a range of steps about thirty feet high, and each si,cp about eighteen inches square. At tho south-east corner is a ma:;sivc pymmidal structure, 120 feet high on the slope. On tho right are other remains of terraces and pyramidal buildings; and here al~o was probahly a gateway, by a passage about Lwcnty feet wide, into a quadrangular G 82 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. area 250 feet square, two sides of which are massive pyramids, 120 feet high on the slope. At tho foot of these structures, and in different parts of the quadrangular area, are numerous remains of sculpture. At the point marked E (see the plan) is a colossal monument, richly sculptured, fallen, and ruined. Behind it fragments of sculpture, thrown from their places by trees, are strewed and lying loose on the side of the pyramid, from the base to the top; and among them our attention was forcibly arrested by rows of death's heads of gigantic proportions, still standing in their places about half way up tho side of the pyramid: the effect was extraordinary. The engraving which follows represents one of them. At the time of our visit, we bad no doubt that these were death's heads; but it has been suggested that the drawing is more like the skull of a monkey than that of a man, Aud, in connexion with this remark, I add what attracted our attention, though not so forcibly at the time. Among the fragments on this side were the remains of a colossal ape or baboon, strongly resembling in outline and appearance one of the four monstrous animals which once stood in front attached to the base of the obelisk of Luxor now in Paris/ and which, under the name of Cynocephali, were worshipped at Thebes. This fragment was about six feet high. The head was wanting; the trunk lay on the side of the pyramid, and we rolled it down several steps, when it fell among a mass of stones, from which we could not disengage it. We had no such idea at the time, but it is not absurd to suppose the sculptured skulls to be intended for the heads of monkeys, * As it stands in Paris, these figures are wanting to make it complete as it stood at Thebes, the obelisk alone having been removed. CHARACTER OF THE E"l'GRAVIKGS. 83 and that these animals were worshipped as deities by the people who built Copan. Among the fragments lying on the ground, near this place, is a remarkable portrait, of which the following engraving is a representation. It is probably the portrait of some king, chieftain, or &<tge. '.l'he mouth is injU1·ed, and part of the ornament over the wreath that crowns the head. The expression is noble and severe, and the whole character shows a close imitation of nature. At the point marked D stands one of the columns or "idols" which give the peculiar character to the ruins of Copan, to the front of which J particularly request the attention of the reader. It stands with its face to the crust, about six feet from the base of the pyramidal wall. It is thirteen feet in height, four feet in front, and three deep, sculptured on all four of its sides from the base to the top, and one of the richest and most elaborate specimens in the whole extent of the ruins. Originally it was painted, the marks of red colour being still distinctly visible. Before it, at a distance of about eight feet, is a large block of sculptured stone, which the Indians call an alt-tr. The subject in the front is a full-length figme, the face wanting beard, o2 84 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A.MERICA. nnd of a feminine cast, though the dress seems that of a man. On the two sides are rows of hieroglyphics, which probably recite the history of this mysterious personage. As the monuments speak for themselves, it is unnecessary to give any verbal description; and there being so many to present to the reader, all differing very grea.tly in detail, it will be impossible, within reasonable limits, to present our own speculations as to their character. It need only be remarked that, from the beginning, oru· great object and effort was to procure true copies of the originals, adding nothing for effect as pictures. All the outlines were made with the camera lucida, and the minute parts afterwards filled in with the pencil. Following the wall, at the place marked C is another monument or idol of the same size, and in many respects similar. The eng;aving No. 9, represents the back. The character of this image, as it stands at the foot of the pyramidal wall, with masses of fallen stone resting against its base, is grand, and it would be difficult to exceed the richness of the ornament and sharpness of the sculpture. This, too, was painted, and the red colour is still distinctly visible. The whole quadrangle is overgrown with trees, and interspersed with fragments of fine sculpture, particularly on the east side; and at the northeast corner is a narrow passage, which was probably a third gateway. On the right is a confused range of terraces, running off into the forest, ornamented with death's heads, some of which are still in position, and others lying about as they have fallen or been thrown clown. Turning northward, the range on the left hand continues a high, massive pyramidal structure, with trees growing out of it to the very top. At a short distance is a detached pyramid, tolerably perfect, marked on the plan Z, about fifty feet square and thirty feet high. 'l'he range continues for a distance of about 400 feet, decreasing somewhat in height, and along this there are but few remains of sculpture. The range of structures turns at right angles to the left, and runs to the river, joining the other extremity of the wall, at which we began our survey. The bank was elevated about thirty feet above the river, and had been protected by a wall of stone, most of which has fallen down. Among the fragments lying on the ground on this side is the portrait given on tho next page. The plan was complicated, and, the whole ground being overgrown with trees, difficult to make out. 'l'here was no entire pyramid, but, at most, two or three pyramidal sides, and these joined on to terraces or other structures of the same kind. Beyond tho wall of enclosure were walls, terraces, and pyramidal elevations, running off into the forest, which sometimes confused us. Probably the whole v.-a not v :.~· ..... ~- /, 't F. Cawru:ood. II, l"RONT OP STONE IDOL. A CURIOUS ALTAR. 85 erected at the same time, but additions were made and statues erected by different kings, or, perhaps, in commemoration of important events in the history of the city. Along the whole line were ranges of steps with pyramidal elevations, probably crowned on the top with buildings or altars now ruined. All these steps and the pyramidal sides were - /\ '1 ::; --~~ ~-;__ -- ~~~~iJ!I! - " ·=-~=- . - --~?.::-c-:..-:.:::~~~~~~.,__:__ - painted, and the reader may imagine the effect when the whole country was clear of forest, and priest and people were ascending from the outside to the terraces, and thence to the holy places within to pay their adoration in the temple. Within this enclosure are two rectangular courtyards, having ranges of steps ascending to terraces. 'l'he area of each is about forty feet above the river. Of the larger and most distant from the river the steps have all fallen, and constitute mere mounds. On one side, at the foot of the pyramidal wall, is the monument or "idol" marked B, of which tho engraving No. 11 represents the front. It is about the same height with the others, but differs in shape, being larger at the top than below. Its appearance and character are tasteful and pleasing, but the sculpture is in much lower relief; the expression of the hands is good, though somewhat formal. The back and sides are covered with hieroglyphics. Near this, at the point marked A, is a remarkable altar, which perhaps presents as curious a subject of speculation as any monument in Copan. The altars, like the idols, are all monolithic, or of a single block of stone. In general they are not so richly ornamented, and are more faded and worn, or covered with moss; some were completely bmied, and of others it was difficult to make out more than the form. All differed in fashion, 86 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. and doubtless had some distinct and peculiar reference to the idols before which they stood. This stands on four globes cut out of the same stone; the sculpture is in bas-relief, and it is the only specimen of that kind of sculpture found at Copan, all the rest being in bold alto-relievo. It is six feet square and four feet high, and the top is divided into thirty-six tablets of hieroglyphics, which beyond doubt record some event in the history of the mysterious people who once inhabited the eity. The lines are still distinctly visible, and a faithful copy appears in the following cut. Wed Sid~. F. C<,Jhencood. North Side. 13, AL1'AU South Side, ~:7251r~~T£~~ I Ead Side, ll, ALTAR. f'. Catherwood. It>. OlGANTIC GIGAKTIC HEAD,. 87 name and office, or character ; and on three of which the serpent forms part. Between the two principal personages is a remarkable cartouche, containing two hieroglyphics, well preserved, which reminded us strongly of the Egyptian method of giving the names of the kings or heroes in whose honour monuments were erected. The headdresses are remarkable for their curious and complicated form : the figures have all breastplates, and one of the two p1~ncipal characters holds in his hand an instrument, which may, perhaps, be considered a sceptre ; each of the others holds an object which can be only a suhjcct for speculation and conjecture. It may be a weapon of war; and, if so, it is the only thing of the kind found represented at Copan. In other countries, battle-scenes, warriors, and weapons of war are among the most prominent subjects of sculpture; and from the entire absence of them here, there is reason to believe that the people were not warlike, but peaceable, and easily subdued. The other courtyard is near tho river. By cutting down the trees, we discovered the entrance to be on the north side, by a passage thirty feet wide, and about three hundred feet long. On the right is a high range of steps rising to the terrace of the river wall. At the foot of this are six circular stones, from eighteen inches to three feet in diameter,-perhaps once the pedestals of columns or monuments now fallen and bm~ed. On the left side of the passage is a high pyramidal structure, with stops six feet high and nine feet broad, like the side of one of the pyramids at Saccara, and one hundred and twenty-two feet high on tho slope. The top is fallen, and has two immense Ceiba trees growing out of it, the roots of which have thrown down the stones, and now bind the top of the pyramid. At the end of the passage is the area or courtyard, probably the great circus of Fuentes; bnt which, instead of being circular, is rectangular, one hundred and forty feet long and ninety broad, with steps on all the sides. 'fhis was probably the most holy place in the temple. Beyond doubt it had been tho theatre of great events, and of imposing religious ceremonies; but what those ceremonies were, or who wore the actors in them, or what had brought them to such a fearful close, were mysteries which it was impossible to fathom. There was no idol or altar, nor were there any vestiges of them. On the left, standing alone, two-thirds of the way up the steps, is tho gigantic head represented in Plate No.15. It is moved a little from its place, and a portion of the ornament on one side has been thrown down some distance by the expansion of the trunk of a largo tree, as shown by the drawing. The head is about six feet high, and the style good. Like many of tho others, with the great expansion of the eyes it seems intended to inspire awe. On either side of it, distant about thirty or forty feet, and rather lower 88 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. down, are other fragments of sculptme of colossal dimensions and good design; and at the foot are two colossal heads, turned over and partly buried, well worthy the attention of future travellers and artists. The whole area is overgrown with trees and encumbered with decayed vegetable matter, with fragments of curious sculpture protruding above the surface, which, probably, with many others completely buried, would be brought to light by digging. On the opposite side, parallel with the river, is a range of fifteen steps to a terrace twelve feet wide; and then fifteen steps more to another terrace twenty feet wide, extending to the river wall. On each side of the centre of the steps is a mound of ruins, apparently of a circular tower. A bout half way up the steps on this side is a pit five feet square and seventeen feet deep, cased with stone. At the bottom is an opening two feet four inches high, with a wall one foot nine inches thick, which leads into a chamber ten feet long, five feet eight inches wide, and four feet high. At each end is a niche one foot nine inches high, one foot eight inches deep, and two feet five inches long. Col. Galindo first broke into this sepulchral vault, and found the niches and the ground full of red earthenware dishes and pots, more than fifty of which, he says, were full of human bones packed in lime; also several sharp-edged and pointed knives of chaya, a small death's head, carved in a fine green stone, its eyes nearly closed, the lower features distorted, and the back symmetrically perforated by holes, the whole of exquisite workmanship. Immediately above the pit which leads to this vault is a passage leading through the terrace to tho river wall, from which, as before mentioned, the ruins are sometimes called Las Ventanas, or the windows. It is one foot eleven inches at the bottom, and one foot at the top, in l _ l_l-i_ l this form, and barely large . ____ I enough for a man to crawl through on his face. There were no remains of buildings. In regard to the stone hammock mentioned by Fuentes, and which, in fact, was our great inducement to visit these ruins, we made special inquiry and search, bnt saw nothing of it. Colonel Galindo does not mention it. Still it may have existed, and may be there still, broken and buried. The padre of Gualan told us that be had seen it; and in our inquiries among the Indians, we met with one who told us that he had beard his father say that !tis father, two generations back, had spoken of such a monument. I have omitted the particulars of our survey: the difficulty and labom of opening lines through the trees-climbing up the sides ◄ MINOR MISERIES. 89 of the ruined pyramids-measuring steps,-and the aggravation of all these, from our want of materials and help, and our imperfect knowledge of the language. The people of Copan could not comprehend what we were about, and thought we were practising some black art to discover hidden treasure. Bruno and Francisco, our principal coadjutors, were completely mystified, and even the monkeys seemed embarrassed and confused ; these counterfeit presentments of ourselves aided not a little in keeping alive the strange interest that hung over the place. They had no "monkey-tricks," but were grave and solemn, as if officiating as the guardians of consecrated ground. In the morning they were quiet, but in the afternoon they came out for a promenade on the tops of the trees; and sometimes, as they looked steadfastly at us, they seemed on the point of asking us why we disturbed the repose of the ruins. I have omitted, too, what aggravated our hardships and disturbed our sentiment: apprehensions from scorpions, and bites of mosquitos and garrapatas or ticks, the latter of which, in spite of precautions (pantaloons tied tight over our boots, and coats buttoned close in the throat), got under our clothes, and buried themselves in the flesh; at night, moreover, the hut of Don Miguel was alive with fleas, to protect ourselves against which, on the third night of our arrival, we sewed up the sides and one encl of our sheet.s, and thrust ourselves into them as we would into a sack. And while in the way of mentioning our troubles I may add, that during this time the flour of the hacienda gave out, we were cut off from bread, and brought down to tortillas. 'l'he day after our survey was finished, as a relief, we set out for a walk to the old stone quarries of Copan. Very soon we abandoned the path along the river, and turned off to the left. The ground was broken, the forest thick, and all the way we had an Indian before ns 'l'l"ith his machete, cutting down branches and saplings. The range lies about two miles north from the river, and runs east and west. At the foot of it we crossed a wild stream. The side of the mountain was overgrown with bushes and trees. The top was bare, and commanded a magnificent view of a dense forest, broken only by the winding of the Copan River, and the clearings for tho haciendas of Don Gregorio and Don Miguel. The city was buried in forest, and entirely hidden from sight. Imagination peopled tho quan-y with workmen, and laid bare the city to their view. Here, as tho sculptor worked, he turned to the theatre of his glory, as the Greek did to tho Acropolis of Athens, and dreamed of immortal fame. Little did he imagine that tho time would come when his works would perish, his race be extinct, his city a desolation and abode for reptiles,-for 90 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. strangers to gaze at, and wonder by what race it had once been inhabited. The stone is of a soft grit. The range extended a long distance, seemingly unconscious that stone enough had been taken from its sides to build a city. How the huge masses were transported over the irregular and broken surface we had crossed, and particulm·ly how one of them was set up on the top of a mountain 2,000 feet high, it was impossible to conjecture. In many places were blocks which had been quarried out, and rejected for some defect ; and at one spot, midway in a ravine leading toward the river, was a gigantic block, much larger than any we saw in the city, which was probably on its way thither, to be carved and set up as an ornament, when the labours of the workmen were arrested. Like the unfinished blocks in the quarries at Assouau and on the Pentelican Mountain, it remains as a memorial of baflled human plans. We remained all day on the top of the range. The close forest in which we had been labouring made us feel more sensibly the beauty of the extended view. On the top of the range was a quarried block. ·with the chay stone found among the ruins, and supposed to be the instrument of sculpture, we wrote our names upon it. They stand alone, and few will ever see them. Late in the afternoon we returned, and struck the river above the ruins, near a stone wall with a circula1· building and a pit, apparently for a reservoir. As we approached our hut we saw two horses with side-saddles tied outside, and heard the cry of a child within. A party had arrived, consisting of an old woman and her daughter, son, and his wife and child, and their visit was to the medicos. We had had so many applications for remedios, our list of patients had increased so rapidly, and we had been so much annoyed every evening with weighing and measuring medicines, that, influenced also by the apprehensions before referred to, we had given out our intention to discontinue practice; but our fame had extended so far, that these people had actually come from beyond San Antonio, more than thirty miles distant, to be cured, and it was hard to send them away without doing something for them. As Mr. C. was the medico in whom the public had most confidence, I scarcely paid any attention to them, unless to observe that they were much more respectable in dress and appearance than any patients we had had, except the members of Don Gregorio's family; but during the evening I was attracted by the tone in which the mother spoke of the daughter, and for the first time noticed in the latter an extreme delicacy of figure and a pretty foot, with a neat shoe and clean stocking. She had a shawl drawn over her head, and on speaking to "IDOLS." 91 her she removed the shawl, and turned up a pair of the most soft and dove-like eyes that mine ever met. She was the first of our patients in whom I took any interest, and I could not deny myself the physician's privilege of taking her hand in mine. While she thought we were consulting in regard to her malady, we were speaking of her interesting face; but the interest which we took in her was melancholy and painful, for we felt that she was a delicate flower, born to bloom but for a season, and, even at the moment of unfolding its beauties, doomed to die. The reader is aware that our hut had no partition walls. Don Miguel and his wife gave np their bed to two of the women; she herself slept on a mat on the ground with the other. Mr. C. slept in his hammock, I on my bed of Indian corn, and Don Miguel and the young men under a shed out of doors. I passed two or three days more in making the clearings and preparations, and then Mr. Catherwood had occupation for at least a month. When we turned off to visit these ruins, we did not expect to find employment for more than two or three days, and I did not consider myself at liberty to remain longer. I apprehended a desperate chase after a government ; and fearing that among these ruins I might wreck my own political fortunes, and hring reproach upon my political friends, I thought it safer to set out in pursuit. A council was called at the base of an idol, at which Mr. C. and I were both present. It was resumed in Don Miguel's hut. The subject was discussed in all its bearings. AU the excitement in the village had died away; we were alone and undisturbed; Mr. C. had under his dominion Bruno and Francisco, Don Miguel, his wife, and Bartolo. We were very reluctant to separate, but it was agreed, nem. con., for me to go on to Guatimala, and for Mr. Catherwood to 1·emain and finish his drawings. l\fr. Catherwood did remain, and, after many privations and difficulties, was compelled to leave on account of illness. He returned a second time and completed them, and we now give the result of the whole . .At a short distance from the 'l'emple, within terraced walls, probably once connected with the main building, are the "idols" which give the distinctive character to the ruins of Copan; and if the reader will look at the map, and follow the line marked "pathway to Don Miguel's house," toward the end on the right he will see the place where they stand. Near as they are, the forest was so dense that one could not be seen from the other. In order to ascertain their juxtaposition, we cut vistas through the trees, and took the bearings and distances, and I introduce them in the order in which they stand. The first is 92 TRA. VELS lN CENTRAL A.MERICA. on the left of the pathway, at the point marked K. This statue is fallen and the face destroyed. It is twelve feet high, three feet three inches on one side, and four feet on the other. The altar is sunk in the earth, and we give no drawing of either. At a distance of 200 feet stands the one marked S. It is eleven feet eight inches high, three feet four inches on each side, and strruds with its front to the east on a pedestal six feet square, the whole resting on a circular stone foundation sixteen feet in diameter. Before it, at a distance of eight feet ten inches, is rrn altar, partly buried, three feet three inches above the ground, seven feet square, and standing diagonally to the " idol." It is in high relief, boldly sculptured, and in a good state of preservation. The engravings which follow, Nos. 16 and 17, represent the front and back view. The front, from the absence of a beard and from the dress, we supposed to be the figure of a woman, and the countenance presents traits of individuality, leading to the supposition that it is a portrait. The back is a different subject. The head is in the centre, with complicated ornaments over it, the face broken, the border gracefully disposed, and at the foot are tablets of hieroglyphics. The altar is introduced on one side, and consists of four large heads strangely grouped together, so as not to be easily made out. It could not be introduced in its proper place without hiding the lower part of the "idol." In drawing the front, Mr. Catherwood always stood between the altar and the "idol." A little behind this is the monument marked T, No. 18. It is one of the most beautiful in Copan, and in workmanship is equal to the finest Egyptian sculpture. Indeed, it would be impossible, with the best instruments of modern times, to cut stones more perfectly. It stands at the foot of a wall of steps, with only the head and part of the breast rising above the earth. The rest is buried, and probably as perfect as the portion which is now visible. When we first discovered it, it was buried up to the eyes. Arrested by the beauty of the sculpture, and by its solemn aud mournful position, we commenced excavating. As the ground was level up to that mark, the excavation was made by loosening the earth with the machete, and scooping it out with the hands. As we proceeded, the earth formed a wall around and increased the labour. The Indians struck so carelessly with their machetes, that, afraid to let them work near the stone, we cleared it with our own hands. It was impossible, however, to continue; the earth was matted together by roots which entwined and bound the monument. It required a complete throwing out of the earth for ten or twelve feet around; and without proper tools, and afraid of 1 folh11«ood. It, ~1·0:,.1:. I llOL- l ,011(l 1t1< .' (r J.:. " \{ ~- {tp ,, \ ~ :y:/ :, -- <'. _,,r ' •. J.I!. P. Catlln-u:ood, 17, STONE 1DOL-Ba<"k l'i,w ' •<.: ·,·. •., -. .,, · -~- ,.,,. :'r(. ,.;,,.,/: ;r •_.1 > : :r -~ ~ '· li1r ~·~ j\ .~~~<~;-: ' ' ,~•.,\,t\~'-"• . . ;.-,, .I 1 ,).:t1 .1.,J,;11 . ,_·:-t,_:, ?• f'clfti~ /' 'i,f -'f}; -~'-J. ,I ' 1·· / L -, ', I ,, " , -½ '>' ' • ..;, l . S, tx , \-.'3: ·'/ •C.J.---; f1irs~'·\~j~;- .,,..... ":---~- ,.,,. ·.-:, ... {'--, ":.; ~,I.I_ - 1'. Co.tMnco<>d. 18 . IDOL IJAUt BURIRD. ,,, !--,'l , ),,•,r-_ i,,, ·,,' f, t '('(_~J'j.J ',/' . j•.( l(.\.j"-': ,'; 1·,:·. ~-.r1,. -i] ·'"•') t:,. ··. ,d '. '/?:1,:)~:; w 1i ',,t 1 J,,;..., ' ,~-~ { ,> < .. - ' m;i F, Cathe1·u•oo,i, l''"I, IDOL- F,m,t l'inr, 2A, IDOL Eflrk fir,, F. Calheru,ood. 21. IDOL-Fr out Vi etb, -~--.. ~..:=__ .:·:,'·'" "--'~~ f!.J' -<}' ,. 7._ t----~,l (/4 ,( I \." \ ' ti ;A~ 1;-·"- ·'- . \ ~:. ~ "-' ~s~ ....::-~,. - _.-.~- /. " .>-~:, ... ...._, f. \ - 22 - 1 D0 1,-B,;1rk Utll' - ·- ,;;;., -- )- --.-. ...,_' "IDOLS." 93 injming the sculpture, we preferred to let it remain, to be excavated by ourselves at some futme time, or by some future traveller. ·whoever he may be, I almost envy him the satisfaction of doing it. The outline of the trees growing around it is given in the engraving. Toward the south, at a distance of fifty feet, is a mass of fallen sculpture, with an altar, marked R on the map ; and at ninety feet distance is the statue marked Q, No. 19, standing with its front to the east, twelve feet high and three feet square, on an oblong pedestal seven feet in front and six feet two inches on the sides. Before it, at a distance of eight feet three inches, is an altar five feet eight inches long, three feet eight inches broad, and four feet high. The face of this idol is decidedly that of a man. The beard is of a curious fashion, and joined to the mustache and hair. The ears are large, though not reseru bling nature ; the expression is grand, the mouth partly open, and the eyeballs seem starting from the sockets; the intention of the scnlptor seems to have been to excite terror. The feet are ornamented with sandals, probably of the skins of some wild animals, in the fashion of that day. The back of this monument, No. 20, contrasts remarkably with the horrible portrait in front. It has nothing grotesque or pertaining to the rude conceits of Indians, bnt is noticeable for its extreme grace and beauty. In our daily walks we often stopped to gaze at it," and the more we gazed the more it grew upon ns. Others seemed intended to inspire terror, and with their altars before them, sometimes suggested the idea of a blind, bigoted, and superstitious people, and sacrifices of human victims. This always left a pleasing impression; and there was a higher interest, for we considered that in its medallion tablets, the people who reared it had published a record of themselves, through which we might one day hold conference with a perished race, and unveil the mystery that hung over the city. At a distance of 142 feet in a south-easterly direction is the idol marked P. It stands at the foot of a wall rising in steps to the height of thirty or forty feet; 01·iginally much higher, but tho rest fallen and in ruins. Its face is to the north; its height eleven feet nine inches, the breadth of its sides three feet, and the pedestal is seven feet square. Before it, at a distance of twelve feet, is a colossal altar. It is of good workmanship, and has been painted red, though scarcely any vestige of the paint remains, and the surface is time-worn. The two engravings, Nos. 21 and 22, represent the front and back view. The former appears to represent the portrait of a king or hero, perhaps erected into a deity. It is judged to be a portrait, from certain marks of individuality in the features, also observable in most of the others, and its 94 '!'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. sex is ascertained by the beard, as in the Egyptian monuments, though this has a mustache, which is not found in Egyptian portraits. The back of this idol, again, presents an entirely different subject, consisting of tablets, each containing two figmes oddly grouped together, ill-formed, in some cases with hideous heads, while in others the natural countenance is preserved. The ornaments, diadems, and dresses are interesting, but what these personages are doing or suffering it is impossible to make out. This statue had suffered so much from the action of time and weather, that it was not always easy to make out the characters, the light being in all cases very bad, and coming through irregular openings among the branches of trees. The stone of which all these altars and statues are made is a soft grit-stone from the quarries before referred to. At the quarries we observed many blocks with hard flint-stones distributed through them, which had been rejected by the workmen after they were quarried out. '.l'he back of this monument had contained two. Between the second and third tablets the flint has been picked out, and the sculpture is blurred; the other, in the last row but one from the bottom, remains untouched. An inference from this is, that the sculptor had no instruments with which he could cut so hard a stone, and, consequently that iron was unknown. vVe had, of course, directed our searches and inquiries particularly to this point, but did not find any pieces of iron or other metal, nor could we hear of any having ever been found there. Don Miguel had a collection of chay or flint stones, cut in the shape of arrow-heads, which lie thought- and Don Miguel was no fool-were the instruments employed. They were sufficiently hard to scratch into the stone. Perhaps by men accustomed to the use of them, the whole of these deep relief ornaments might have been scratched, but the chay stones themselves looked as if they had been cut by metal. The engraving No. 23, represents the altar as it stands before the last monument. It is seven feet square and fom feet high, richly sculptured all around. The front represents a death's head. The top is sculptured, and contains grooves, perhaps for the passage of the blood of victims, animal or human, offered in sacrifice. The trees in the engraving give an idea of the forest in which these monuments are buried. At the distance of 120 feet north is the monument marked 0, No. 24, which, unhappily, is fallen and broken. In sculpture it is the same with the beautiful half-buried monument before given, and, I repeat it, in workmanship equal to the best remains of Egyptian art. The fallen part was completely bound to the earth by vines and creepers, and before it could be drawn it was necessary to unlace them, 23, IDOL AND ALTAR t4. FALi.EN' IUOI,. • - "--- , . -(A-:.:~,- 2.'.I. FRONT OF IDOL. 2',i, BACh, O l 1D0 1 \ I \' 1 I ,! I \ . , ! . -., . ....._ '/' I ,.). .; ,.) . .;_ I " , - --:<,~---:~~ i\'i I ~\ .,.._ ·~). ·,;:: ,_ .-=,,, '"- ~-: "' \~ ';_:,~ l ,,, ' , . . ' P. Cnlhuwoorl. 17, SIOF OF IDOL. IDOLS ORIGINALLY PAINTED. 95 and tear the fibres out of the crevices. The paint is very perfect, and has preserved the stone, which makes it more to be regretted that it is broken. The altar is buried with the top barely visible, which, by excavating, we made out to represent the back of a tortoise. The next engravings, Nos. 25, 26, 27, exhibit the front, back, and one of the sides of the monument N, distant twenty feet from the last. It is twelve feet high, four foot on one side, three feet four inches on the other, and stands on a pedestal seven feet square, with its front to the west. There is no altar visible; probably it is broken and buried. The front view seems a portrait, probably, of some deified king or hero. The two ornaments at the top look like the trunks of elephants, an animal unknown in that country. The crocodile's head is seven feet from it, but appears to have no connexion with it. This is four feet out of the ground, and is given in the plate as one of the many fragments found among the ruins. 'fhe back presents an entirely different subject from the front. At the top is a figure sitting cross-legged, almost buried under an enormous head-dress, and three of the compartments contain_ tablets of hieroglyphics. Not to multiply engravings, we have omitted side views, as they are, in general, Jess interesting. 'l'his is particularly beautiful. The tablets of hieroglyphics are very distinct. At a distance of twenty-eight feet in the same direction is the statue marked M, which is fallen, and lies on its back, with a tree across it nearly lengthwise, leaving visible only the outline, feet, and sandals, 96 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA, both of which are well sculptured. The preceding engraving is a representation of it. Opposite is a circular altar with two grooves on the top, three feet high, and five feet six inches in diameter, an engraving of which is here given. The next three engravings, Nos. 30, 31, and 32, are the front, back, and side view of the monument marked L, distant seventy-two feet north from the last, with its front toward the west, twelve feet high, three feet in front, two feet eight inches on the side, and the pedestal is six feet square. Before it, at a distance of eleven feet, is an altar very much defaced, and buried in the earth. The front view is a portrait. The back is entirely made up of hieroglyphics, and each tablet has two hieroglyphics joined together, an arrangement which afterwards we observed occasionally at Palenque. The side presents a single row of hieroglyphics, joined in the same manner. The tablets probably contain the history of the king or hero delineated, and the particular circumstances or actions which constituted his greatness. We have now given engravings of all the most interesting monuments of Copan, and they may be relied on as accurate and faithful representations. vVe have purposely abstained from all comment. If the reader can derive from them but a small portion of the interest that we did, he will be repaid for whatever he may find unprofitable in these pages. Of the moral effect of the monuments themselves, standing as they F. Cathen cood. 30. STONE JDOJ. - Fr tml r, ew. 31. STONE TOOL-Back 1',ru, :l!, STONE IDOL-Sid~ ril'I<'- ,, 't " .,~ ~~:1\ "~ ! ANTIQUITY OF COPAN. 97 do in the depths of a tropical forest, silent and solemn, stra11ge in design, excellent in sculpture, rich in ornament, different from the works of any other people; their uses and purposes, their whole history so entirely unknown, with hieroglyphics explaining all, bnt perfectly unintelligible, we do not pretend to convey any idea. Often the imagination was pained in gazing at them. The tone which pervades the ruins is that of deep solemnity. An imaginative mind might be infected with superstitious feelings. From constaHtly calling them by that name in our intercourse with the Indians, we regarded these solemn memorials as "idols "-deified kings and heroes-objects of adoration and ceremonial worship. vVe did not find on either of the monuments or sculptured fragments any delineations of human, or, in fact, any other kind of sacrifice, but had no doubt that the large sculptured stone invariably found beforcl each "idol" was employed as a sacrificial altar. The form of sculpture most frequently met with was a Death's head,- sometimes the principal ornament, and sometimes only accessory; whole rows of them on the outer wall, adding gloom to the mystery of the place, keeping before the eyes of the living, death and the grave, presenting the idea of a holy city-the Mecca or Jerusalem of an unknown people. In regard to the age of this desolate city we shall not at present offer any conjecture, although it can hardly be donbted that its history is graven on its monuments. No Champollion has yet brought to them the energies of his inquiring mind. Who shall read them 1. "Chaos of ruins! who shall trace the void~ O'er the dim fragments cast a lunar light, And say,' Here was, or IS,' where all was doubly night l"'' In conclusion, it may be remarked, that if this be the place refen:ed to by the Spanish historian as conquered by Hernandez de Chaves, at that time its broken monuments, terraces, pyramidal stl'uctures, portals, walls, and sculptured figures were entire, and all were painted; the Spanish soldiers mnst have gazed at them with astonishment and wonder ; and it seems strange tbat a European m·my could have entered it without spreading its fame through official reports of generals and exaggerated stories of soldiers. At least no European army could enter such a city now without this result following; but the silence of the Spaniards may be accounted for by the fact, that these conquerors of America were illiterate and ignorant adventurers, eager in pursnit of gold, and blind to everything else: or, if reports were made, the Spanish government, with a jealous policy observed down to the last moment of her dominion, suppressed every thing that might attract the attention of rival nations to her American P?Ssessions. H 98 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA., CHAPTER VIII. SEPARATION-AN ADVENTURE-COPAN RIVER-DON CLEMENTINO--A WEDDING-A SUJ'PERA WEDDING BALL-BUYING A MULE-THE SIERRA-VIEW FRO)t THE TOP-ESQUIPULASTHE CURA-UOSPITABLE RECEl'TION-CHURCH OF ESQU[PULAS-RESPONSIBlLITY OF THE CURA-MOUNTAIN OY QUEZAr,TAPEQUE-A NARROW ESCAPE-SAN JACl~T0-RECEP1'ION BY' THE .PADRE-A VILLAGE Ff.TE-AN AlllJUSCADE-1,IOTAGUA RIVER-VILLAGE OF SANTA ROSALJ..\.-A DEATH SCENE. HAVING decided that, under the circumstances, it was best to separate, we lost no time in acting upon the conclusion. I had difficulty in coming to a right understanding with my muleteer, but at length a treaty was established. The mules were loaded, and at two o'clock I mounted. Mr. C. accompanied me to the edge of the woods, where I bade him farewell, and left him to difficulties worse than we had apprehended. I passed through the village, crossed the river, and, leaving the muleteer on the bank, rode to the hacienda of Don Gregorio; but I was deprived of the satisfaction which I had promised I myself at parting, of pouring upon him my indignation and contempt, 1 by the consideration that Mr. Catherwood was still within the reach of his influence; and even now my hand is stayed by the reflection that when Mr. C., in great distress, robbed by his servant, and broken down by fever, took refuge in his house, the don received him as kindly as his bearish nature would permit. My only comfort was in making the lordly churl render an account of sixpences and shillings for eggs, milk, meat, &c., to the amount of two dollars, ,Yhich I put into his hands. I afterwards learned that I had elevated myself very l much in his estimation, and in that of the neighbourhood generally, by my handsome conduct in not going off without paying:" My good understanding with the muleteer was of short duration. At parting, J\Ir. C. and I had divided our stock of plates, knives and forks, spoons, &c., and Angustin had put my share in the basket which had canied the whole, and these, being loose, made such a clattering, that it frightened the mule. The beast ran away, setting us all off together with a crashing noise, till she threw herself among the * On my second vi:;it, finding the rancho of Don Miguel deserted, I rode to Don Gregorio's, The don liad in the meantime been to Esquipulas, and learned our character from the cura; and it is due to him to say, that he received me kindly, and made many inquiries after Mr. Stephens. The rest of the family were as cordial as before.-F. C, l ......... I ' DON CLEMEN1'INO. 99 bushes. ·we had a scene of terrible confusion, and I escaped as fast as I could from the hoarse and croaking curses of the muleteer. Late in the afternoon, ascending a little eminence, I saw a large field with st.one fences, and bars, and cattle-yard, that looked like a Westchester farm. We entered a gate, and rode up through a fine park to a long, low, substantial-looking haciimda. It was the house of Don Clementino, whom I knew to be the kinsman of Don Gregorio, and the one of all others I would have avoided, but also the very one at which the muleteer had determined to contrive a halt. The family consisted of a widow with a large family of children, the principal of whom were Don Clementino, a young man of twenty-one, and a sister of about sixteen or seventeen, ti beautiful fair-haired girl. Under the shed was a party of young people in holiday dresses, and five or six mules, with fanciful saddles, were tied to the posts of the piazza. Don Ulementino was j auntily dressed in white jacket and trousers, braided and embroidered, a white cotton cap, and over it a steeple-crowned glazed hat, with a silver cord twisted round as a band, a silver ball with a sharp piece of steel as a cockade, and red and yellow stripes under the brim. He had the consequential air and feelings of a hoy who Lad suddenly become the head of an establishment, and asked me, rather superciliously, if I had finished my visit to the "idols;" and then, without waiting for an answer, if I could mend an accordion; then, if I could play on the guitar; then to sell him a pair of pocketpistols, which had been the admiration of Don Gregorio's household; and, finally, if I had anything to sell. With this young gentleman I should have been more welcome as a pedlar than an ambassador from any court in Europe, though it must be admitted that I was not travelling in a very imposing way. Finding I had nothing to make a bargain for, he picked up a guitar, danced off to his own music, and sat clown on the earthen floor of the piazza to play cards. Within, preparations were going on for a wedding at the house of a neighbour, two leagues distant, and a little before dark the young men and girls appeared dressed for the journey. All were mounted, and, for tho first time, I admired exceedingly the fashion of tho country in riding. My admiration was called forth by the sister of Don Clementino, and the happy young gallant who escorted her. Both rode the same mule, and on the same saddle. She sat sidewise beforo him; his right arm encircled her waist; at starting, the mule was restive, and he was obliged, from necessity, to support her in her seat, to draw her close to himself; her ear invited a whisper; and when she turned her face toward him her lips almost touched his. I would have given all the honours of diplomacy for his place. H2 100 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Don Clementino was too much of a coxcomb to set off in this way; he had a fine mule, gaily caparisoned, swung a large basket-hilted sword through a strap in the saddle, buckled on a pair of enormous spurs, and, mounting, wound his poncha around his waist, so that the hilt of the sword appeared about six inches above it : giving the animal a sharp thrust with his spurs, he drove her up the steps, through the piazza, and down the other side, and asked me if I wanted to buy her. I declined, and to my great satisfaction he started to overtake the others, and left me alone with his mother, a respectable looking, grey-haired old lady, who called together all the servants and Indian children for vesper prayers. I am sorry to say it, but for the first time I was reminded that it was Sunday. I stood in the door, and it was interesting to see them all kneeling before the figure of the Virgin. An old grey-nosed mule walked up the piazza, and, stopping by my side, put his head in the door, when, more forward than I, he walked in, gazed a moment at the figure of the Virgin, and, without disturbing anybody, walked out again. Soon after I was called in to supper, which consisted of fried beans, fried eggs, and tortillas. The beans and eggs were served on heavy silver dishes, and the tortillas were laid in a pile by my side. There was no plate, knife, fork, or spoon. Fingers were made before forks; but bad habits make the latter, to a certain degree, necessary. Poultry, mutton, beef, and the like, do not come amiss to fingers, but beans and fried eggs were puzzling. How I managed I will not publish; but, from appearances afterwards, the old lady could not have supposed that I had been at all at a loss. At a distance of two leagues from the hacienda we passed the house of the wedding party. The dancing was not yet over, and I had a strong fancy to see again the fair-haired sister of Don Clementino. Having no better excuse, I determined to call him out and "talk mule." As I rode up, the doorway and the space thence to the middle of the room were filled with girls, all dressed in white, with the roses in their hair faded, and the brightness of their eyes somewhat dimmed by a night's dissipation. The sister of Don Clementina was modest and retiring, and, as if she suspected my object, shrank back from observation, while he made all open a way for him and his guitar. I had no idea of buying his mule, but made him an offer, which, to my surprise and regret at the time, he accepted; but virtue is its own reward, and the mule proved a most faithful animal. Mounted on my new purchase, we commenced ascending the great Sierra, which divides the streams of the Atlantic from those that empty into the Pacific Ocean. The ascent was rugged and toilsome - ESQUIPULAS-TRE CURA. 101 but iu two hours we reached the top. The sceuery was wild and grand, I have no doubt; but the fact is, it rained very hard all the time; and while I was flounderiug amoug mud-holes I would have giYen the chauce of the sublime for a good l\faca,lamized road. Mr. Catherwood, who crossed on a clear day, says tbai the view from the top, both ways, was the most maguificeut ho saw in the cotmtry. Descending, the clouds were lifted, and I looked clown upon an almost boundless plain, ruuning from the foot of the Sierra, and afm· off saw, standing alone in the wilderness, the great church of Esquipulas, like the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusulom, and the Caaba in Mecca, the holiest of temples. My muleteer was vory anxious to stop at a collection of huts on this side of the town, an<l told mo first that the place was occupied by Carrcra's so]djers, and tl,cn tliat he was ill. I had a loug and magnificent descent to the foot of the Sierra. The plain reminded me of the great waste places of Tmkey and Asia Minor, but was more beautiful, bciug bonnded by immense mountains. For three hours the church was our guide. As we approac,hed, it stoo<l ont more clem·ly defined against mouutains whose tops were lrnried in the clouds. Late in the afternoon we entered the town, and rode up to the convent. I was a little nervous, aud presented my passport as a letter of introduction; but could I have douute<l the hospitality of ::i padre1 Don Gregorio's reception made rne feel more dee_ply the welcome of the cunt of Esqnipulas. None can know the value of hospitality but those who have felt the want of it, aud they can neyer forget the welcome of strangers in a stranga land. The whole househol<l of the cm·a turucd out to assist, and in a few minutes the mules were munching corn in the yard, while I was installed in the seat of honour in the convent. It was hy far the largest and best building in the ]Jlacc. The walls were three or four feet thick; a largo portico extended in front; the entrance was by a wide hall, used as a slee]Jing-place for servants, aud commurucating with a courtyard in the rear; on the left was a large sala or receptionroom, with lofty windows and deep recesses; on one side of the wall was a long wooLlen settee, with a high ba0k, and arms at each end; before it was a massive un]Jolishe<l mahogany table, and above hung a painting of om- Saviour; against tlte wall were large antiquated chairs, the backs aud seats covered with leather, and studded with nails having large brass heads. The cura was a young man, under thirty, of delicate frame, and his face beamed with intelligence and refinement of ihonght and feeling. He was dressed in a long black bombazet gown, drawn tight aroun<l - 102 TRAVELS IN C:hlNTRAL AMERICA. the body, with a blue border around the neck, and a cross was suspended to his rosary. His name was J esus Maria Guttierrez. It was the first time I had ever heard that name applied to a human being, and even in him it seemed a profanation. On a visit to him, and breaking the monotony of his secluded life, was an old schoolfellow and friend, Colonel San Martin, of Honduras, who had been wounded in the last battle against Morazan, and was staying at the convent to recover his health and strength. His case showed the distracted sta,te of the country. His father was of the same politics with himself, and his brother was fighting on the other side in the battle in which he was wounded. 'fhey gave me disagreeable information in regard to my road to Guatimala. Carrera's troops bad fallen back from the frontiers of San Salvador, and occupied the whole line of villages to the capital. They were mostly Indians, ignorant, intemperate, and fanatic, who could not comprehend my official character, could not read my passport, and, in the excited state of the country, would suspect me as a Etranger. They had already committed great atrocities; there was not a cura on the whole road; and to attempt traversing it would be to expose myself to robbery and murder. I was very loth to protract my journey, but it would have been madness to proceed; in fact, no muleteer would undertake to go on with me, and I was obliged to turn my eyes to Chiquimula and the road I had left. 'l'he cura said I must be guided by him. I put myself in his hands, and at a late hcn.ir lay down to rest with the strange consciousness of being a welcome guest. I was awaked by the sound of the matin bell, and accompaniell the curn, to mass. The church for every-day use was directly opposite t he convent, spacious and gloomy, and the floor was paved with large square bricks or tiles. Rows of Indian womou were kneeling around tho altar, cleanly dressed, with white mantillas over their heads, but without shoes or stockings. A few men stood up behind or leaned against the walls. We returned to breakfast, and afterward set out to visit the only object of interest, the great church of the pilgrimage, the Holy Place of Central America. Every year, on the fifteenth of January, pilgrims visit it, even from Peru and Mexico; the latter being a journey not exceeded in hardship by the pilgrimage to Mecca. As iu the east, "it is not forbidden to trade during the pilgrimage;" and when thern are no wars to make the roads unsafe, 80,000 people have assembled among the mountains to barter and pay homage to "our Lord of Esquipulas." TOWN A.."\'D CHURCH OF ESQUIPULAS. 103 The town contains a population of about 1,500 Indians. There was one street nearly a mile long, with mud houses on each side; but most of the houses were shut, being occupied only during the time of the fair. At the head of this street, on elevated ground, stood the great church. About half-way to it we crossed a bridge over a small stream, one of the sources of the great Lompa. It was the first stream I had seen that emptied into the Pacific Ocean, and I saluted it with reverence, Ascending by a flight of massive stone steps in front of the church, we reached a noble platform, 150 feet broad, and paved with bricks a foot square. The view from this platform of the great plain and the high mountains around was magnificent; and the church, rising in solitary grandeur in a region of wildness and desolation, seemed almost the work of enchantment. The fa~ade was rich with stucco omaments and figures of saints larger than life; at each angle was a high tower, and over the dome a spire, rearing aloft in the air the crown of that once proud power which wrested the greatest part of America from its rightful owners, ruled it for three centuries with a rod of iron, and now has not within it a foot of land, or a subject to boast of. We entered the church by a lofty portal, rich in sculptured ornaments. Inside was a nave with two aisles, separated· by rows of pilasters nine feet square, and a lofty dome, guarded by angels with expanded wings. On the walls were pictures, some drawn by artists of Ouatimala, and others that had been brought from Spain; and the recesses were filled with sfatues, some of which were admirably well executed. The pulpit was covered with gold leat and the altar protected by an irou railing with a silver balustmdo, ornamented with six silver pillars about two feet high, and two angels standing as guardians ou the steps. Jn front of the altar, in a rich shrine, is an image of the Saviout' on the ct·oss, "our Lord of Esquipulas," to whom the ch1ll'ch is consocmtod, famed for its power of working miracles. Every year thousands of devotees ascend the steps of his temple on their knees, or laden with a heavy cross, who arc not permitted to touch tho sacred image, but go away contented in obtaining a piece of riband sfampcd with the words "Dulce nombre de Jesus." We returned to the convent, and while I was sitting with Colonel San Martin the cum entered, and, closing the door, asked rue if my servant was faithful. Augustin's face was an unfortunate letter of recommendation. Colonel ~f'Donald, Don Francisco, and, as I afterward heard, General Cascara, distrusted him. I told tho cum all I knew of him, and mentioned his conduct at Comotan; but he still cautioned me to beware of him. Soon after, Augustin, who seemed 104 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A1IERICA. to suspect that he had not made a very favourable impression, asked me for a dollar to pay for a confession. My intelligent friend was not free from the prejudices of education; and though he could not at once change his opinion so warmly expressed, he said that Augustin had been well brought up. In the course of the day I had an opportunity of seeing what I afterwards observed throughout all Central America: the life oflabour and responsibility passed by the cura in an Indian village, who devotes himself faithfully to the people un<ler his charge. Besides officiating in all the services of the church, visiting the sick, and burying the dead, my worthy host was looked up to by every Indian in the village as a counsellor, friend, and father. The door of the convent was always open, and Indians were constantly resorting to him: a man who had qnal'l'elled with his neighbour; a wife who had been badly treated by her husband; a father whose son had been carried off as a soldier; a young girl deserted by her lover; all who were in trouble er affliction came to him for advice and consolation, and none went away without it. And, besides this, he was principal director of all the public business of tho town: the right hand of the alcalde; and had been consulted whether or not I ought to be considered a dangerous person. But the performance of these multifarious duties, and the excitement and danger of the times, were wearing away his frame. Four years before he gave up the Capital, and took upon himself this curacy, and during that time he had lived a life of labour, anxiety, and peril; cut off from all the delights of social intercourse that make labour welcome, beloved by the Indians, but without any to sympathize with him in his thoughts and feelings. Once the troops of Momzan invaded the town, and for six months he lay concealed in a cave of the mountains, supported by Indians. Lately the difficulties of the country had increased, and the cloud of civil war was darker than ever. He mourned, but, as he said, he had not long to mourn; and the whole tone of his thoughts and conversation was so good and pure, that it seemed like a green spot in a sandy desert. We sat in the embrasure of a large window; within, the room was already dark. He took a pistol from the window-sill, and, looking at it, said, with a faint smile, that the cross was his protection; and then he put his thin hand in mine, and told me to feel his pulse. It was slow and feeble, and seemed as if every beat would be the last; but he said it was always so; and, rising suddenly, added that this was the hour of his private devotions, and retired to his room. I felt as if a aood spirit had flitted away. 0 ~y anxiety to reach Guatimala would not permit me long to enjoy ......... MOUNTAIN OF QUEZALTAPEQUE. 105 the cura's hospitality. I intended to discharge my muleteer; but, unable to replace him immediately, and unwilling to lose another day, I was obliged to retain him. The usual course was to leave Esquipulas in the afternoon, and ride four leagues; but, having seven mules and only four cargoes, I determined to make these four leagues and the next day's journey also in one. Early in the morning I started. When I bade farewell, the priest and the soldier stood side by side, pictures of Christian humility and man's pride, and both recommended me to God at parting. We crossed the plain; the mountains of Esq uipulas seemed to have gained in grandeur: in half an hour commenced ascending the Mountain of Quezaltepeque, thickly wooded, and, like that of Mico, muddy and full of gulleys and deep holes. Heavy clouds were hanging over it, and as we ascended it rained hard; but before reaching the top the clouds were lifted, the sun shone, and the plain of Esq uipulas, with the great Sierrn behind, covered with lofty pines, and clouds chasing each other over its sides, all blended together, made one of the grandest spectacles I ever beheld; and the great church still presented itself for the farewell view of the pilgrim. But the gleam of sunshine did not last long, and again the rain poured; for a while I had great satisfaction in seeing the muleteel' drenched and hearing him grumble; but an unaccountable fit of good humour came over me, and I lent him my bear's skin great-coat. At intervals the sun shone, and we saw at a great distance below us the village of Qnezaltepeque. The descent was very precipitous, the mud-boles and gulleys unusually deep; and the clouds which bung over the mountain were typical of my fortune. Ml'. Catherwood, wI10 followed on this road about three weeks afterwards, heard from the padre of Quezaltepeque that a plan had been formed to murder and rob me, on the supposition that I had a large amount of money about my person, which laudable project was defeated by my crossing in the morning instead of the afternoon, as is usually done. We passed through Quezaltepeque without dismounting. It is usual, in dividing the stages to Guatimala, to make an afternoon's journey to this place and sleep. It was now but eleven o'clock, clear and bright us a September day at home. Leaving the village, we crossed a beautiful stream, at which some women were washing. Very so011 we ascended again, and on the top of the mountain came to an abrupt precipice, forming the side of a deep ravine. We descended by a narrow path on the very edge of the precipice, part of the way on a narrow protruding ledge, and in other places by a path built against the rock to the bottom of the ravine. On the other side rose another 106 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. precipitous wall. The mvine was deep and narrow, and wild to sublimity. The stream ran through it over a rocky bed, and for some distance the road Jay in this bed. We ascended by a steep and difficult path to the top of the other side of the ravine, and rode for some distance along its edge. The opposite side was a perpendicular mass of limestone rock, black with exposure, and in some places were patches of grass on a brown ground, lighted up occasionally by brief gleams of sunshine. W a descended again to the very bottom of the ravine, and, crossing the stream, ascended almost immediately a narrow path built along the side of the precipice to the top, being on the same side from which we started. It is impossible to give any idea of the wilrluess of this double crossing of the ravine. It terminated abruptly, and at the extreme end, on a point, was a small hacienda, on one side looking directly up this awful opening, and on the other upon a soft valley. At five o'clock we crossed the stream, and entered the village of San Jacinto, which was under the care of the cura of Quezaltepcque, who was then at San Jacinto. I rode up to his house and presented the letter of the cura of Esquipulas. My muleteer, without unloading the mules, threw himself clown on the piazza, and, with my greatcoat on his unthankful body, began abusing me for killing him with long marches. I retorted; and before the padre had time to recover from his surprise at our visit, he was confounded by our clamour. But he was a man who could bear a great deal, being above six feet high, broad shouldered, and with a protuberance in front that required support to keep it from falling. His dress consisted of a shirt and pair of pantaloons, with button-holes begging for employment; but he had a heart as big as his body, and as open as his wearing apparel; and when I told him I had ridden from Esquipulas that day, he said I must remain a week to recruit. As to going the next day, he would not hear of it; :mcl, in fact, very soon I found that it was impossible without other aid, for my abominable muleteer filled up the measure of his iniquities by falling ill with a violent fever. At. my earnest solicitation, the padre endeavoured to procure me mules for the next day, and during the evening we had a levee of villagers. The man upon whom he principally relied said that it was dangerous travelling; that two Ingleses had been arrested in Honduras, and had escaped, but their muleteers and servants were murdered. I could perhaps have thrown some light upon this story, but did not think it worth while to know anything about such suspicious characters. The padre was distressed that he could not serve me, but at length said that a man of my rank and character (I had shown him RECEPTION BY THE PADRE. 107 my passport, and Augustin had fired the Balize guns) ought to have every facility, and he would provide for me himself; and he ordered a man to go early in the morning to his hacienda for mules; after which, fatigued with such unusual efforts, he threw his gigantic body into a hammock and swung himself to sleep. The household of the padre consisted of two young men, one deaf and dumb, and the other a fool. The former possessed extraordinary vivacity and musGular powers, and entertained the padre by his gesticulations, stories, and sleight-of-hand tricks, and particularly with a steel puzzle. There was something intensely interesting in the kindness with ,vhich the padre played with him, and the earnestness with which he hung around his gigantic master. At times the young man became so excited that it seemed as if he would burst in the effort to give utterance to his thoughts ; but all ended in a feeble sound which grated upon my nerves, and seemed,to knit him more closely to the good-hearted padre. The latter was continually changing the puzzle, but the ingenuity of the lad could not be defeated. 'l'he poor simpleton meanwhile looked on with admiration. The padre offered him half-a-dollar if he could open it, and both he and the deaf and dumb lad laughed at the awkward attempts of the simpleton. The padre finished with a warm panegyric upon the worth of both, which the deaf and dumb boy seemed to understand and thank him for, but which he that had ears seemed not to hear. The padre insisted on my taking his own catre, or bedstead, which was unusually neat, and had a moscheto-netting. It was my best bed since I left Colonel M'Donald's at Balize. Before I ,vas up he stood over me with a flask of brandy. Soon after came chocolate, with a roll of sweet bread ; and finding that it was impossible to get away that day, I became a willing victim to his hospitality. At nine o'clock we had breakfast; at twelve, fruit; at two, dinner; at five, chocolate and s,rnet-bread; and at eight, supper, with constant intermediate invitations to brandy, which the padre, with his hand on that prominent part of his own body, said was good for the stomach. In everything except good feeling he was tho complete antipodes of the cura of Esquipulas. I had had some suspicion that my muleteer was not as um,ell as he pretended to be; but his neglect of the padre's good fare convinced me that he was really in a bad way. I gave him some medicine, but I believe he suspected me, and was afraid to take it. In the afternoon I took a long walk on the bank of the river, and, returning, met a party of women, dressed in white with red shawls over the tops of their heads. I have seen enough of fancy colours in women to remove some prejudices, but retain an old-fashioned predilection for 108 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, "·hito skins; and here I remarked that the whitest women were the prettiest, though the padre did not agree with me entirely. Under the shod of a deserted house near by was an old fodian with ten or twelve Indian girls, teaching them the catechism. They were dressed in red plaid cotton, drawn ronnd the waist and tied in a knot on the laft side, and a white handkerchief over the shoulders. Other pal'ties were out in rlifforent places, organizing for a village f&te in honour of some saint; and towards evening, while sitting with the i,adre, now dressed in his long black gown, a procession advanced, headed by the oldest man in the village, with white hair and beard, and a lame man and two or three associates playing on violins. Defore reaching the house they set off flYo or six rockets, and then all went up and saluted the padre, kissing the back of his hand; the women went inside, carrying bundles wrapped in clean white napkins; and when I went in to take my chocolate I found the table piled up with cakes and confectionary. Afterwards all went to the church for vesper prayers. I could but think, what subsequently impressed itself upon me more and more in every step of my journey in that country, blessed is the village that has a padre. Dnring the day, the deaf and dumb boy had contrived several times to make me understand that he wished to accompany me, and in the evening the padre consented to make him happy by giving him a journey to Guatimala. Early in the morning the convent was in commotion. The good padre was unused to fitting out an expedition for Guatimala. Many things were wanting besides the mules, and the village was laid under contribution. During the Lustle, a single solclier entered the village, arnl created alarm that he was the pioneer of others come to quarter upon them. The padre told him who I was, and that the guard must not molest me. At length all was ready; a large concourse of peuple, ronsed by the requisitions of the padre, were at the door, and among them two men with vi0lins. The padre directed his own gigantic energies particularly to the eatables ; he had put up chocolate, bread, sausages, and fowl; a box of cakes and confectionary; and, as the finale, the deaf and dumL lad came out of the house, holding at arm's lcngt:1 above his head the whole side of an ox, with merely the skin taken off and the ribs cracked, which was spread as a wrapper over one of the cargoes, and secured by a netting. A large pot, with the bottom upward, was secured on the top of another cargo. The padre took a kind leave of me, and a most affectionate one of the deaf and dumb lad; and at nine o'clock, with violins playing, and a turn-out that would have astonished my city friends, I made another start for the capital. A low groan from the piazza reminded me of my muleteer. I dismounted, and, at the moment of parting, VILLAGE OF SANTA ROSALIA. 109 exchanged a few words of kindness. His brawny fignre was prostrated by fever; at times he had vexed me almost beyond endmance; but, with all my malice against him, I could not have wished him in a worse condition. The boy sat by his side, apparently softened by the illness of his master, and indifferent as to my going. For the first time in a long while we had a level road. Tho land was rich and productive; brown sugar sold for three-halfpence a pound, anrl white lump, even under their slow process of making it, for fourpence, and indigo could be raised for one shilling a pound. I was riding quietly, when four soldiers sprang into the road almost at my mule's head. They were perfectly concealed until I approached, and their sudden appearance was rather footpad-like. They could not read my passport, and said that they mnst conduct me to Chiquimula. My road lay a little off from that town; and, fortunately, while under escort, the soldier whom I had seen in San Jacinto overtook us, satisfied them, and released me. A short distance beyond I recognised the path by which we turned off to go to Copan. Three weeks had not elapsed, and it seemed an age. We passed by tho old church of Chiquimula, and, winding up the same zigzag path by which we had descended, crossed tho mountain, and descended to the plain of Zacapa and the Motagua River, which I hailed as an old acquaintance. It was growing late, and we saw no signs of habitation. A little before dark, on the top of a small eminence on the right, we saw a little boy, who conducted us to the village of Santa Rosalia, beautifully situated on a point formed by the bend of the river. The village consisted of a miserable collection of huts; before the door of the best was a crowd of people, who did not ask us to stop, and we rode up to one of tho poorest. All we wanted was sacate* for the mules. The stores of the padre were abundant for me, and the deaf and dumb lad cut a few ribs from the side of the ox, and prepared supper for himself and the muleteer. While supping, we heard a voice of lamentation from the house before which tho crowd was assembled. After dark I walked over, and found that they were mourning over tho dcrtd. Inside wore seveml women; one was wringing her hands, and the first words I distinguished were, "Oh, our Lord of Esqnipulas, why hrtvo you taken him awrtyl" She was interrupted by the tramp of horses' hoofs, and a man rode up, whose fignre in the dark I could not see, but who, without dismounting, in a hoarse voice, said that the priest asked six dollars to bmy the corpse. One of the crowd cried out, "Shame ! shame ! " and others said they would bmy it in el carnpo (tho field). The horse- • Sacate means any kind or grass or leaves for mulee. The best is sacate de maize, or the stalks and leaves of Indian corn. 110 'I'll.a YELS IN CENTRAL AMEfilCA. man, in the same hoarse voice, said, that it was the same if buried in the road, the mountain, or the river, the priest must have his fee. There was a great outcry; but the widow, in a weeping tone, declared that the money must be paid, and then renewed her exclamations: ")Iy only help, my consolation, my head, my heart; you who was so strong, "'hO could lift a ceroon of indigo : " "You said you would go and Luy cattle;" "I said,' Yes; bring me fine linen and jewellery."' The worcfa, and the piercing tone of distress, reminded me of a similar scene I had once beheld on the banks of the Nile. By invitation of one of the friends I entered the house. The corpse lay on the ground, in a white cotton dress extending from the neck to the feet. It was that of a young man, not more than twenty-two, with the mustache just budding on his upper lip, tall, and but a month before so strong that he could "lift a ceroon of indigo." He had left home to buy cattle, returned with a fever, and in a week was dead. A bandage was tied under his chin to hold up the jaw; his thin wrists were secured across his breast ; and his t'l.per fingers held a small crucifix made of comhusks stitched together. On each side of his head was a lighted candle, and ants, which burden the ground, were swarming over his face. The widow did not notice me, but the mother and two young sisters asked me if I had no remedies; if I could not cure him ; if I could have cured him if I had seen him before. I left the bereaved family and withdrew. The man who had asked me to enter met me at the door, and gave me a seat among the frieuds. He inquired about my country, where it was, and whether the customs were like theirs; and very soon, but for the lamentations of the widow, many would have forgotten that a few yards from them lay a dead friend. I remained with them an hour, and then returned to my hut. The piazzn. was full of hogs; the interior was a perfect piggery, full of fleas and children ; and the woman, with a cigar in her mouth, and the harshest voice I ever heard, still brought in child after child, and piled them up on the floor. My men were already asleep outside ; and borrowing an undressed ox-hide, I spread it on the floor at the end of the house ; upon this I laid my pellon, and upon that I laid myself. The night before I had slept under a moscheto netting ! Oh, padre of San Jacinto, that a man of my "mnk and character" should come to this! The woman was sleepless; a do1,en times she came out to smoke a cigar, or to drive away the hogs; and her harsh voice, and the screams from the house of mourning, made me rejoice when the cocks crew for morning. CHUlALAJ>A, 111 CHAPTER IX. CJll)(AT,APA-TnE CAD ILDO-A SCE::O.E OF REVELRY-GUASTATOYA-A HUNT FOR RODBERS - API'ROACII TO GUATIM.ALA-BEAtlTIFUL SCENERY-VOI,CANOES OF AGUA AND FUEGO-.FI RST VIEW OF THE CITY-ENTRY l,_TO THE CITY-FIRST IMI'R ESS lONS-TJIE DIPLOMATIC RESIDENCE-PAJlTIES TN CE'-TRAL AMERICA-MURDER OF VICE-l'llESlO.ENT FLORES-POLITICAL STATE OF GUATUIALA-AN EMBARRASSING SlTOATION-TUE CONSTITUENT ASSEMULYMILITARY POLICE. AT peep of day I bathed in the Motagua. In the mean time the deaf and dumb boy prepared chocolate, and the corpse of the young man was borne to its final resting-place. I went over to the desolate house, bade farewell to the mourners, and resumed my journey. Again ,,e had on our right the Motagua River and the mountains of Vera Paz. The road was level j it was excessively hot, and we suffered from thirst. At noon we stopped two hours at the village of Fisioli. Late in the afternoon we came upon a table-land covered with trees bearing a flower, looking like a,pple-trees in blossom, and cactus or tunos, with branches from three to fifteen feet long. I was in advance; and having been in the saddle all day, and wishing to relieve my mule, I dismounted and walked. A man overtook mo on horseback, who touched me by telling me that my mnlewas tired . The mule, unused to being led, pulled back, and my new acquaintance followed, whipping her; and remembering the fable, and that I conld not please everybody, I mounted, and we rode into Chimalupa together. It was a long, straggling village, with a large church, bnt there was no padre, and I rode to the cabilclo. This, besides being the townhouse, is a sort of caravansary or stopping-place for travellers, being a remnant of Oriental usages still existing in Spain, and introduced into her former American possessions. It was a largo building, situated on the plaza, plastered and whitewashed. At one encl the alcalde was holding a sort of court, and at the other were the gratings of a. prison. Between them was a. room about thirty feet by twenty, with naked walls, and destitute of chair, bench, or table . The luggage was brought in, the hammock hung up, and the alcalcle sent me my supper. Hearing tho sound of a drum and violin, I walked to the house whence it issued, which was crowded with men and women smoking, lounging in hummocb, dancing, and drinking ugua ardiente, in celebration of a. marriage. The night before I had been present at a 112 TRAVELS I:'< CENTRAL AMERICA. death-scene. This was an exhibition of disgusting revelry, and the prominent vagabond was disposed to pick a quarrel with me ; seeing which, I quietly walked back to the cabildo, shut the door, and betook myself to my hammock. ,Ve started early, and at four o'clock entered the town of Guastatoya, beautifully situated, overlooking a valley in the rear of the square, waving with Indian corn, and rode up to the house of the brother of Doiia Bartola, our hostess of Gualan, to whom I was recommended by her. I bad a good supper of eggs, frigoles, chocolate, tortillas, and was lying in a hammock with my boots off when the alcalde entered with a sword under bis arm, followed by my host and several other persons, and told me that a party of robbers was out after me; that be bad.men on their traces, and wished to borrow my arms and servantz. 'l'he latter I was willing enough to lend, for I knew they would find their way back ; but the former, I thought, were more secure under my own eye. Being on the main road, I considered it so safe, that I bad that dny taken off the caps from my pistols aml gnn ; but, drawing on my boots, recapping and distributing my surplus arms, we saJlied forth. 'fbe muleteer would not go, but the deaf and dumb lad, with a face of fire, drew his machete and followed. It was pitchy dark, and on first going out from the light I could not see at all, but stumbled along after my companions, who moved swiftly and without noise through the plaza, and along the whole length of the town. In the suburbs we approached a hut which stood alone, with the side toward us, closed, but the light of a fire issued from both ends; and here it was supposed the robbers were, unconscious of pursuit or suspicion. After a brief consultntion, it was agreed that the party should separate, and one half enter at each end ; and the alcaJde's charge was to shoot the villains rather than let them escape. Stealing toward the hut, we rushed in at the same time from the opposite sides, and captured an old woman, who sat on the ground replenishing the fire. She was not surprised at our visit, and, with a bitter laugh, said the birds had flown. At that moment we heard the report of a musket, which was recognised as the signal of the men who had been stationed to watch them. All rushed out; another report hurried us on faster, and very soon we reached the foot of a mountain. As we ascended, the alcalde said thut he saw a man crawling on his hands and feet up the side of the mountain, and, snatching my double-barrelled gun, fired at him as coolly as he "·ould have done at a woodcock; all scattered in pursuit, and I was left with Augustin and the deaf and dumb boy. ... I A IIUNT FOR ROBBERS, 113 Moving on, but not very fast, and looking hack occasionally to the distant lights in the village, with an unknown mountain before me, and a dark night, I began to think that it was about enough for me to defend myself when attacked; although the affair was got up on my account, it was straining a point for me to pass the night in helping to rid the town of its robbers. Next, I reflected that, if the gentlemen we were in pursuit of should take it into their heads to double, my cap and white dress made me conspicuous, and it might be awkwru·d to meet them at this place ; and, in order to gain time for consideration what it was best to do, I walked back toward the town, and had not fully made up my mind when I reached the plaza. Rero I stopped, and in a few minutes a man passed, who said that he ha,1 met two of the robbers on the main road, and that they had told him they would catch me in the morning. They had got it into their heads that I was an aid-de-camp of Carrera, returning from Balizo with a largo amount of money to pay the troops. In about an hour tho alcaldo and his posse comitatus returned. I had no idea of being robbed by mistake ; and, knowing the facility with which the robbers might go ahead and take a long shot at me, I asked the alcalde to furnish mo with two men to go in advance and keep a look-out; but I was heartily sick of the country, and the excitement of its petty alarms. Daylight dispelled the gloom which night had cast over my spirits. Leaving Guastatoya, for some distuncc I rode through a cultivated country, and tho fields were divided by fences. V cry soon I forgot all apprehensions of robbers, and, tired of the slow pace of the cargomulcs, rotle on, leaving them far behind. At eleven o'clock I entered a ravine so wild that I thought it could not be the main road to Guatimala; there were no mule-tracks visible; and, returning, I took another road, tho result of which was thut I lost my way, und rode tho whole dsiy ulone. I could guin no certain intelligence of Augustin and the muleteer, but continued on in tho belief tlmt they were before mo. Pushing on rapidly, at dark I rode up to a haciendu on one side of the road, at which I was very kindly received by the proprietor, who was a mulatto, and, to my great surprise, I learned that I bud advanced to within one long day's jo,m1ey of Guatimala. He made me anxious, however, about the &'lfety of my luggage ; but for that night I could do nothing. I lay down opposite a large household altar, ornr which was a figure of tho Virgin. At about ten o'clock I was roused by the arrival of Augustin and the muleteer. Besides their apprehensions about me, they had had their own difficulties ; two of 114 TllA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. the mules broke down, and they were obliged to stop and let them rest, and feed them. Early the next morning, leaving the luggage with the muleteer (which, by the way, was at that time a very imprudent proceeding), and taking merely a change of apparel, I set out with Augustin. Almost immediately we commenced ascending a rugged mountain, very steep, and commanding at every step a wild and magnificent view; and from the top saw, at a great distance below us, in the hollow of an amphitheatre of mountains, the village of El Puente, the ground around which was white, and trodden hard by caravans of 1mtles. We desccndcd to the village, and crossed the bridge, which was laid on a stone arch, thrown across a ravine with a cataract foaming through it ; at this point we were completely encircled by mountains, wild to sublimity, and reminding me of some of the finest parts of Switzerland. On the other side of the bridge we commenced ascending another mountain. The road was winding, and, when very high up, the view of the village and bridge, at the immense distance below, was smpassingly fine. Descending a short dist:.tnce, we passed a village of huts, situated on the ridge of the mountain, commanding on both sides a view of an extensive valley four or five thousand feet below us. Continuing on this mn,gnificent ridge, we descended upon a rich table land, and sawn, gate opening into grounds which reminded me of pn,rk scenery in England, \mdulating, and ornamented with trees. In the midst of this stood the hacienda of San J ose, a long, low, stone building, with a corridor in front ; it was one of those situations which, when least expected, touch a tender chord, call up cherished associations, make a traveller feel as though he could linger around it for ever, and particularly welcome to us, as we had not breakfasted. It was a hacienda de ganados, or cattle-hacienda, and had hundreds of cattle roaming over it; but all that it could give us to cat was eggs, tortillas, and beans softened in hot water ; the last being about equal to a basket of fresh chips. This over, we made a last push for Guatimala. ·when we were yet two leagues from the city, Augustin's horse gave out. I was anxious to have a view of the city before dark, and rode on. Late in the afternoon, as I was ascending a small eminence, two immense volcanoes stood before me, seeming to scorn the earth, and towering to the heavens. They were the great volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, Water and Fire, forty miles distant, and nearly fifteen thousand feet high, wonderfully grand and beautiful. In a few moments the great plain of Guatimala appeared in view, surrounded APPROACIJ TO GUA1'BIALA. 11 5 ·by mountains, and in the centre of it the city, a mere speck on the vast expanse, with churches and convents, and numerous turrets, cupolas, and steeples, and still as if tho S]Jirit of peace rested upon it; with no storied associations, but by its own beauty creating an impression on the mind of a traveller which can never be effaced. I dismounted and tied my mnlo. As yet the sun lighted up the roofs and domes of the city, giving a reflection so dazzling that I could only look at them by stealth. By degrees, its disk touched the top of the Volcano de Agua; slowly the whole orb sank behind it, illuminating the background with an atmosphere fiery reel. A rich golden cloud rolled up its side and rested on the top, and while I gazed the golden hues disap]Jeared, and the glory of the scene was gone. Augustin came along with his poor horse bobbling after him, and a pisto.J in his hand. He bad been told on the way that Ca1Tera's soldiers were riotous, and that there were many laclrones about the suburbs of the city, and he was in the humour to fire upon any one who asked a question. I made him put up his pistols, and we both mounted. An immense ravine was still between us and the city. It was very dark when we reached the bottom of this ravine, and we were almost trodden down by a caravan of loaded mules corning out. Rising on the other side to the top, we entered the outer gate, still a mile and a half from Guatimala. Inside were misemble huts, with large fires before them, surrounded by groups of drunken Indians and vagabond soldiers, firing their muskets at random in the air. Augustin told me to spur on ; but his poor horse could not keep up, and we were obliged to move on at a walk. As yet I did not know whm·e to stop; there was no hotel in Guatimala. "What's the use of a hotel in Guatimala 1 Who ever goes to Guatimala r' was the answer of a gentleman of that place to my inquiries on this subject. I had several letters of introduction, and one was to Mr. Hall, the English vice-consul; and, fortunately, resolved to throw myself upon his hospitality. We picked up a ragged Indian, who undertook to conduct us to his house, and under his guidance entered the city at the foot of a Jong straight street. My country-bred mule seemed astonished at the sight of so many houses, and would not cross the gutters, which were wide, and iu the middle of the street. In spurring her over one, she gave a leap that, after her hard journey, made me proud of her; but she broke her bridle, and I was obliged to dismount and lead her. Augustin's poor beast was really past carrying him, and be followed on foot, whipping mine, the guide lending a hand before and behind. In this way we traversed the streets of Guatimala. Perhaps no diploI 2 116 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Al\IERICA. matist ever made a more unpretending entry into a capital. Our stupid Indian did not know where Mr. Hall lived; there were_hardly any people in the streets to inquire of, and I was an hour haulmg my mule over the gutters, and grumbling at the guide, before I found the house. I knocked some time without receiving any answer. At length a young man opened the shutter of a balconied window, and told me that Mr. Hall was not at home. 'l'his would not serve my turn. I gave my name, and he retired ; and in a few minutes the large door was unlocked, and Mr. Hall himself received me. He gave me as a reason for not opening sooner, that the soldiers had mutinied that day for want of pay, and threatened to sack the city. Carrera had exerted himself in trying to pacify them, and had borrowed fifty dollars from his (Mr. Hall's) neighbour, a French merchant; but the inlmbitants were greatly alarmed; and when I knocked at his door, he was afraid that the soldiers were beginning to put their threat in execution. Mr. H. had taken down his staff, because on their last entry, when he had his flag flying, the soldiers had fired upon it, calling it a bandera de guerm. They were mostly Indians from the villages, ignorant and insolent, and a few days before he had his hat knocked off by a sentinel because he did not raise it in passing, for which his complaint ll'as then before the government.•· The whole city was kept in a state l of awe. No one ventured out at night, and :Mr. Hall wondered how I had been able to wander through the streets without being molested. All this was not very agreeable, but it could not destroy my satisfaction in reaching Guatimala. For the first time since I entered the country, I had a good bed rmd a pair of clean sheets. It was two months that clay since I om.barked from New York, and only ono since I entered the country. but it seemed at least a year. The luxury of my rest that night still lingers in my recollections, and the morning air was the most pure and invigorating I ever breathed. I Situated in the "Tierras tompladas," or temperate regions, on a tableland five tl,ousand feet above the sea, the climate of Guatimala is that of perpetual spring, and the general aspect reminded me of tho best class of Italian cities. It is laid out in blocks of from three to four hundred feet square, the streets parallel and crossing each other at right angles. The houses, made to resist the action of earthquakes, are of only one story, but very spacious, with large doors and windows, protected by iron balconies. In the centre of the city stands the Plaza, a square of one hundred and fifty yards on each side, paved with stone, with a colonnade on three sides ; on one of these stands the old vice-regal palace and hall of the Audiencia; on another are the cabildo, « It is due to Carrera to say, that by his orders the soldier received two hundred lashes. I FIRST IMPRESSIONS. 117 and other city buildings; on the third the custom-house and palace of the ci-devant Marquisate of Aycinena; and on the fourth side is the Cathedral, a beautiful edifice in the best style of modern architectmo, with the archiepiscopal palace on one side, and the College de los Infantes on the other. In the centre is a large stone fountain, of imposing workmanship, supplied with pipes from the mountains about two leagues distant; and the area is used as a market-place. 'l'he churches and con,ents correspond with the beauty of the Plaza, and their costliness and gTandeur would attract the attention of tomists in Italy or old Spain. The foundation of the city was laid in 1776, a year memorable in our own annals, and when our ancestors thought but little of the trou blcs of their neighbours. At that time the old capital, twenty-five miles distant, shattered and destroyed by earthquakes, was abandoned by its inhabitants, and the present was built in the rich valley of Las Vaccas, in a style commensurate with the dignity of a captain-generalship of Spain. I have seldom been more favourably impressed with the first appearance of any city, and the only thing that pained me in a two hours' stroll through the streets was the sight of Carrcra's ragged and insolent-looking soldiers ; and my first idea was, that in any city in Europe or the United States, the citizens, instead of submitting to be lorded over by such barbarians, would rise en niasse and pitch them out of the gates. In the course of the morning I took possession of the house that had been occupied by Mr. De Witt, late United States chargc-d'affaires. If I had been favourably impressed with the external appearance of the houses, 1 was charmed with the interior. The entrance was by a large double door, through a passage paved with small black and white stones, into a handsome patio or court-yard paved in like manner. On the sides were broad corridors paved with square red bricks, and along the foot of the corridors were borders of flowers In front, on the street, and adjoining the entrance, was an ante-:·oom with one large balconied window, and next to it a sala or parlour, with two windows. At the further encl a door opened from the side into the comedor or dining-room, which had a door and two windows opening upon the corridor. At the end of the dining-room was a door leading to a sleepingroom, with door and one window, and then another room of the same size, all with doors and windows opening upon the corridor. The building anu corridor were continued across the foot of the lot; in the centre were rooms for servants, and in the corners were a kitchen and stable completely hidden from sight, and each furnished with a separate fountain This is the plan of all tho houses in Guatimala; 118 TRAVELS lli CENTR.\L A)lERICA. others are much larger ; that of the Aycinena family, for instance, covered a square of 200 feet; but mine combined more beauty and comfort than any habitation I ever saw. At two o'clock my luggage arrived, and I was most comfortably installed in my new domicile. The saJa or reception-room was fmnished with a large book-case, containing rows of books wit.h yellow bindings, which gave me twinging recollections of a law-office at home; and the archives of the legation had quite an imposing aspect. My first business was to make arrangements for sending a trusty escort for Mr. Catherwood, and, this over, it was incumbent upon me to look around for the government to which I was accredited. From the time of the conquest Gu,itimala had remained in a state of profound tranquillity as a colony of Spain. The Indians submitterl quietly to the authority of the whites, aud all bowed to the divine right of the Romish Church. In the beginning of the present century a fe1v scattering rays of light penetrated to the heart of the American continent; and in 1823 the kingdom of Ouatimala, as it was then called, declared its indcp~ndence of Spain, and, after a short union with Mexico, constituted itself a republic, under the name of the United States of Central America. By the articles of agreement the confederacy was composed of five states, viz., Guatimala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. Chiapas had the privilege of entering if it should think proper, but it never did. Quezaltenaugo, a district of Guatimala, was afterwards erected into a separate state, and added. The monster Party-spirit was rocked in the very cradle of their independence, and a line of demarcation was at once drawn between the Aristocratic and Democratic parties. The local names of these at first confused me, the former being called the Central or Servile, aud the latter the F ederal or Liberal, or Democratic party. Substantially they were the same with our own Federal and Democratic parties. The reader will perhaps find it difficult to understand that in any country, in a political sense, Federal and Democratic can mean the same thing, or that when I speak of a Federalist I mean a Democrat; and, to prevent confusion in referring to them hereafter, I shall call the Aristocratic the Central, and the Democratic the Liberal party. 'l'he former, like our own Federal party, was for consolidatin" and centralizing the powers of the general government, and the latter contended for the sovereignty of the states. 'rhe Central party consisted of a few leading families, which, by reason of certain privile"es of monopoly for importations under the old Spanish government, a~sumed the tone of nobles, sustained by the priests and friars, and the religious feeling of PARTIES IN CENTRAL AMERICA. 119 the country. The latter '\Tas composed of men of intellect and energy, who threw off the yoke of the Romish Church, and, in the first enthusiasm of emancipated minds, tore away at once the black mantle of superstition, thrown, like a funeral pall, over the genius of the people. The Centralists wished to preserve the usages of the _colonial system, and resisted every innovation and every attack, direct or indirect, upon the privileges of the Church, and their own prejudices or interests. The Libcr,1ls, ardent, and cherishing brilliant schemes of reform, aimed at an instantaneous change in popular feelings and customs, and considered every moment lost that did not establish some new theory or sweep away some old abuse. The Centralists forgot that civilization is a jealous divinity, which does not admit of partition, and cannot remain stationary. The Liberals forgot that civilization requires a harmony of intelligence, of customs, and of laws. The example of the United States and of their free institutions was held up by the Liberals; and the Centralists contended that, with their ignorant and heterogeneous population, scattered over a vast territory, without facilities of communication, it was a hallucination to take our country as a model. At the third session of Congress the parties came to an open rupture, and the deputies of San Salvador, alw:1ys the most Liberal state in the confederacy, withdrew. Flores, the vice-chief of the State of Gu:1timala, a Liberal, had made himself odious to the priests and friars by layiug a contribution upon the convent at Quezalteuango; and while on a visit to that place the friars of the convent excited the populace against him as an enemy to religion. A mob gathered before his house, with cries of "Death to the heretic ! " Floros fled to the church ; but as he was entering the door :1 mob of women seized him, wrested a stick from his hands, bea.t him w·ith it, tore off his cap, and cl.ragged him by the hair. He escaped from these furies and ran up into the pulpit. Tho alarm-bell was sounded, and all tho rabble of the town poured into the plaza. A few soldiers endeavoured to cover the entrance to the church, but were assailed with stones and clubs; and the mob, bearing clown all opposition, forced its way into the church, making the roof ring with cries of" Death to the heretic ! " Rushing toward the pulpit, some tried to unhinge it, others to scale it; others struck at the unhappy vice-chief with knives tied to the ends of long poles; while a young fiend, with one foot on the mouldings of the pulpit and the other elevated in the air, leaned over and seize<i him by the hair. The curate, who was in the pulpit with him, frightened at tho tempest he had assisted to raise, hold up the Holy of Holies, and begged the mob to spare him, promising that he should leave the city immediately. 'fhc unhappy Flores, on his ]20 '.l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. knees confirmed these promises ; but the friars urged on the mob, ,rho beca~e so excited with religious frenzy, that, after kneeling before the figure of the Saviour, exclaiming, "Vv e adore thee, 0 Lord, we venerate thee" they rose up with the ferocious cry, "but for thy honour and glor; this blasphemer, this heretic, must die 1" . They d1:3ggcd him from the 1mlpit across the flour of the church, and m the cl01sters threw him into the hands of the fanatic and fmious horde, when the women, like unchained furies, with their fists, sticks, and stones, beat him to death. His murderers stripped his body, leaving it, disfigured and an object of horror, exposed to the insults of the populace, n,nd then dispersed throughout the city, demanding the heads of Liberals, and crying "Vivn, la Religion, y muoran los hcregos del Congreso." About the same time religions fanaticism swept the state, and the Liberal party was crushed in Guatimala. But the state of San Salvador, from the beginning the leader in Liberal principles, was prompt in its efforts of vengeance, and on the 16th of March, 1827, its army appeared within the outer gates of Guatimala, threatening the destruction of the capital : but religious fanaticism was too strong; the priests ran through the streets exhorting the people to take up arms, the friars headed mobs of women, who, with drawn knives, swore destruction to all who attempted to overturn their religion; and the San Sn,l vadoreans were defeated n,nd driven back. For two years the parties were at open war. In 1829 the troops of San Salvador, under General Morazan, who bad now become the head of the Liberal party, again nmrched upon Guatimala, and, after three days' fighting, entered it in triumph. All the leaders of the Central party-the Aycincnas, the Pavons, and Pefioles-were banished or fled, tbs convents were broken up, the institution of friars abolished, the friars themselves put on board vessels and shipped out of the country, and the n,rchbishop, anticipating banishment, or perhaps fearing a worse fate, sought safety in flight. In 1831 General Morazan was elected president of the republic; at the expiration of the term he wa~ reelected; and for eight years the Liberal party had the complete ascendancy. During the latter part of his term, however, there was great discontent, particularly on account of forced loans and exactions for the support of government, or, as the Centralists said, to gratify the rapacity of unscrupulouE and profligate office-holders. The Church party was always on the alert. The exiles in the United States and Mexico, and on the frontier, with their eyes always fixed upon home, kept up constant communications, and fostered the growing discontents. Some of them, in a state of penury abroad, ventured to return, and these not being molested, I I I I POLITICAL STATE 0.F GUATI:IIALA. 121 others soon followed. At this time came on the rising of Carrera, which was at first more dreaded by the Centralists than the Liberals, but suddenly, and to their own utter astonishment, placed the former nominally at the head of government. In May preceding my arrival the term of the president, senators, and deputies had expired, and no elections had been held to supply their places. 'l'he vice-president, who had been elected during an unexpired term, was the only existing officer of the Federal Government. The states of Guatimala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica had declared themselves independent of the Federal Go,erument. The states of San Salvador and Quezaltenango sustained the Federal Government, and :Morazan, as commander-in-chief of the Federal forces, had defeated Ferrera, and establishecl troops in Honduras, which gave the Liberal party the actual control of three states. Virtually, then, the states stood "three and three." " 7here was my government! 'l'he last Cougress, before its dissolution, had recommended that panacea for political ills, a convention to amend the Constitution. The governments of England and France were representer] near that of Central America by consuls-general. Neither had any treaty; England could not procure one except upon a surrender of all claim to the Island of Roatan, in tho Bay of Honduras, and to Balize. One had been drawn up wit,h France, bnt, though pressed with great earnestness by the consul-general of that country, the senate refused to ratify it. Ours was the only government that had any treaty with Central America, and, up to the time of Mr. De Witt's departure from the country, we were represented by a charg6-d'affaires. The British consul-general had published a circular, denying the existence of the general government; the French consul was not on good terms with either party; and my arrival, and the course I might take, were a subject of some interest to politicians. 'fhere was but one side to politics in Guatimala. Both parties have a beautiful way of producing unanimity of opinion, by driving out of the country all who do not agree with them. If there were any Liberals, I did not meet them, or they did not dare to open their lips. 'l'he Central party, only six months in power, and still surprised at being there, was fluttering between arrogance and fear. The old families, whose principal members had been banished or politically ostracized, and the clergy, were elated at the expulsion of the Liberal party, and their return to what they considered their natural right to rule the state; they talked of recalling the bauishecl archbishop and friars, restoring the privileges of the Church, repairing the convents, 122 'l'RA VELS 1N CENTRAL AnlERICA, reviving monastic institutions, and making Guatimala what it had once been, the jewel of Spanish America. One of my first visits of ceremony was to Sei'\or Rivera Paz, the chief of the state. I was presented by Mr. Henry Savage, who had formerly acted as United States consul at Guatimala, and was the only American resident, to whom I am under many obligations for his constant attentions. The state of Guatimala, having declared its independence of the Federal government, was at that time governed by ti temporary body called a Constituent Assembly. On the last entry of Carrera into the city, in March preceding my arrival, Salazar, the chief of the state, fled, and Carrera, on horseback, knocked at the door of Sei'\or Rivera Paz before daylight, and, by his individual pleasure, installed him as chief. It was a fortunate choice for the people of Guatimala. He was about thirty-eight years of age, gentlemanly in his appearance and manners, and, in all the trying positions in which he was afterwards placed, exhibited more than ordinary prudence and judgment. I had been told that it would be agreeable to the government of Guatinmla for me to present my credentials to the chief of that state, and afterwards to the chiefs of the other states, and that the states separately would treat of the matters for which I was accredited to the general government, The object of this was to preclude a recognition on my part of the power which was, or claimed to be, the general government. The suggestion was of course preposterous, but it showed the dominion of party spirit with men who knew better. Sei'\or Rivera Paz expressed his regret at my happening to visit the country at such an unfortunate period, and assured me of the friendly disposition of that State, and that it would do all in its power to se-rve me. During my visit I was introduced to several of the leading members of the administration, and I left with a favourable opinion of Rivera Paz, which was never shaken in regard to him personally. In the evening, in company with Mr. Hall, I attended the last meeting of the Constituent Assembly. It was held in the old Hall of Congress; the room was large, hung with portmits of old Spaniards distingnished in the history of the country, and dimly lighted. The deputies sat on a platform at one end, elevated about six feet, and the president on an elevation in a large chair, two secretaries at a table beneath ; and on the wall were the arms of the republic, the groundwork of which was three volcanoes, emblematic, I suppose, of the combustible state of the country. The deputies sat on each side, about thirty being present, nearly half of whom were priests, with A CONSTITUENT ASSE1IBLY. 123 black gowns and caps; and by the dull light the scene carried me back to the dark ages, and seemed a meeting of Inq_nisitors. The subject under discussion was a motion to revive the old law of tithes, which had been abolished by the Liberal party. The law was passed unanimously; but there was a discussion upon a motion to appropriate a small part of the proceeds for the support of hospitals for the poor. The priests took part in the discussion, and with liberal sentiments; a lay member, with big black whiskers, opposed it, saying that the Church stood like a light in darkness; and the 11Iarq_uis .Aycinena, a priest and the leading member of the party, said that "what was raised for God should be given to God alone." There was another discussion upon the point, whether the Jaw should operate upon cattle then in being or to be horn thereafter; and finally, as to the means of enforcing it. One gentleman contended that coercive measures should not be nsed, and, with a fine burst of eloquence, said that reliance might be placed upon the religious feelings of the people, and thrrt the poorest Indian would come forward and contribute his mite; but the Assembly decided that the law should be enforced by " Las !eyes antignas de los Espagnoles," the old Jaws of the Spaniards, the severities of which had been one of the great causes of revolution in all Spanish countries. There was something horrible in this retrograde legislation. I could hardly believe that, in the nineteenth century, men of sense, and in a country through the length and breadth of which free principles were struggling for the ascendancy, would dare fasten on the people a yoke which, even in the dark ages, was t oo galling to be borne. The tone of debate was respectable, but calm and unimpassioned, from the entire absence of any opposition party. The Assembly purported to be a popular body, representing the voice of the people. It was a time of great excitement, and the last night of its session; and Mr. Ball and I, four men and three boys, were the only listeners. As it was not safe to he in the streets after eight o'clock, the Assembly was adjourned, and, after a short session the next morning, assembled at a state breakfast. 'fhe place of meeting was in the old library, a venerable room, containing a valuable collection of rare old Spanish hooks and manuscripts, among which had lately been discovered the two missing volumes of Fuentes, and where I promised myself much satisfaction. Tho only guests were lllr. Hall, the French consul-general, Colonel Monte Rosa, an aide of Carrera, and myself. Carrera was invited, but did not come. The table was profusely ornamented with flowers and fruits. '!'here was very little wine clrnnk, no toasts, and no gaiety. There was not a grey-haired man at table; all 124 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, were · young, and so connected that it seemed a large family party; more thau half had b2en in exile, and if Morazan returned to power they would all be scattered again. I had been but throe days in Guatimala, and already the place was dull. The clouds which hung over the political horizon weighed upon the spirits of the inhabitants, and in the evening I was obliged to shut myself up in my honse alone. In the uncertainty which hung over my movements, and to avoid the trouble of housekeeping for perhaps but a few weeks, I dined and supped at the house of the senora-an interesting young widow- who owned mine (her husband had been shot in a private revolution of his own getting up), and lived nearly opposite. The first evening I remained there till nine o'clock; but as I was crossing on my return home, a fierce "Quien vive 1 "- " Who goes there 1" came booming up the street. In the dark I could not see the sentinel, and did not know the password. Fortunately, and what was very unusual, he repeated the challenge two or three times, but so fiercely that the tones of his voice went through me like a mnsket-ball, and probably in a moment more the ball itself would have followed, but an old lady rushed out of the house I had left, and, with a lantern in her hand, screamed "Patria Libre." Though silent, I was uot idle ; and when in a safe place thanked her from across the street, hugging close the inside of my doorway. Since Carrera's entry, he had placed sentinels to preserve the peace of the city, which was very quiet before he came, and his peace-officers kept it in a constant st.ate of alarm. These sentinels were Indians, ignorant, undisciplined, and insolent, and fond of firing their muskets. They were ordered to challenge " Quien vive 1" "Who goes there ?" "Qne gente !" " What people r' "Quel Regimento r' " ·what regiment 1" and then fire. One fellow had already obeyed his orders literally, and, hurrying through the three ques1'ions without waiting for answers, fired, and shot a woman. The answers were, "Patria Libre," "Country free;" "Paisano," "Conntrynutn ;" and " Prz," "Peace." 'l'his was a subject of annoyance all the time I was in Guatimala. The streets wei·e not lighted ; and hearing the challenge, sometimes at the distance of a squllre, in a ferocious voice, wW1out being able to see the sentinel, I always irnagineu him with his musket at his shoulder, peering through the darkness to take aim. I felt less safe by reason of my foreign pronunciation ; but I never met any one, native or stranger, who was not nervous when within reach of the sentinel's challenge, or who would not go two squares out of the way to avoid it. HACIENDA OF NARANJO. 125 CHAPTER X. lfACIENDA OF ~ARANJO-L,\ZOING--DIPLOMA'l'IC CORRESPO!',DEXCE-FORMULAS-FfTE OF LA < ONCE:.>CION-TAKING TPE BLACK VEIL-A COUK'l'RYWOMAN-RENOUNC1~G THE WORLDFJllEWORAs, ETC.-PROCESSION IN HONOUR OF THE VlllGIN-A!\OTllEI\ EXlil.BITION OF FIREWORKS-A FIERY BULL-INSOLENT SOLDIERY. THE next day, in company with Mr. Savage, I rode to Naranjo, a small hacienda of the Aycinona family, about seven miles from the city. Beyond the walls all was beautiful, and in the palmy days of Guatimala the Aycinenas rolled to the Naranjo in an enormous carriage, covered with carving and gilding, in the style of the grandees of Spain, which now stands in the court-yard of the family-house as a memorial of better days. We entered by a spacious gate iuto a road upon their land, undulating and ornamented with trees, and by a large artificial lake, made by damming up several streams. ·wo rode around the borders of the lake, and entered a cattle-yard of considerable extent, in the centre of which, on the side of a declivity, stood the house, a strong stone structure, with a broad piazza in front, and commanding a beautiful view of the volcanoes of the Antigua. It was the season for marking and numbering the cattle, and two of the Sei\ores Aycinena were at the hacienda to superintend the operations. 'rhe cattle had been caught aucl brought in; but, as I had never seen the prncess of lazoing, after dinner a hundred head, which had been kept up two clays without food, were let loose in'co a field two or thrne miles in circumference. Eight men were monnte<l, with iron spurs three inches long on their naked heels, and each with a lazo in hand, which consisted of an entire cow's hide cut into a single cord about twenty yards long ; one encl was fastened to the horse's tail, which was first wrapped in leaves to prevent its being lucoratcd, and the rest was \Yo1md into a coil, and held by the rider in his right hand, resting on the pommel of the saddle. The cattle had all disperneil; we placed ourselves on an elevation commanding a partial view of the field, and the riders scattered in search of them. In a little while thirty or forty rushed past, followed by the riders at full speed, and very soon were out of sight. We must either lo~e the sport or follow; and in one of the doubling~, taking particularly good care to avoid the throng of furions cattle and headlong riders, I drew up to the side of two men who were chasing a 126 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, single ox, and followed over hill, through bush, brush, and underwood; one rider threw his lazo beautifully over the horns of the ox, and then turned his horse, while the ox bounded to the length of the lazo, and, without shaking hor&e or rider, pitched headlong to the ground. At this moment a herd swept by, with the whole company in full pursuit. A large yellow ox separated from the rest, and all followed him. For a mile he kept ahead, doubled, and dodged, hut the horsemen crowded him down toward the lake ; and, after an ineffectual attempt to bolt, he rushed into the water. Two horsemen followed and drove him out, and gave him a start, but in a few moments the lazo whizzed over his head, and, while horse and rider stood like marble, the ox again came with a plunge to the ground. The riders scattered, and one horse and rider rolled over in such a way that I thought every bone in his body was broken ; but the sport was so exciting that I, who at the beginning was particularly careful to keep out of harm's way, felt very much disposed to have my own horse's tail tied up and take a lazo in my hand. The effect of the sport was heightened by the beauty of the scene, with the great volcanoes of Agua and Fuego towering above us, and toward evening throwing a deep shade over tho plain. It was nearly dark when we returned to the house. ·with that refinement of politeness, which I believe is exclusively Spanish, the gentlemen escorted us some distance on our road. At dark we reached Guatimala, and, to our great satisfaction, learned at the gate that the soldiers were confined to their barracks. The news of my arrest and imprisonment, with great exaggeration of circumstances, had reached Guatimala before me, and I was told that the state government intended making me a communication on the subject. In a few Jays I received a letter from the Secretary of state, conveying the regrets of the President for the occurrence, and stating that the government had taken the measures which it deemed proper in the premises. As this was very indefinite, and as I bore considerable anger against the parties, and, moreover, as I heard out of doors something about these " measures," and considered it necessary, for the protection of Americans who were or might be in that country, not to suffer an outrage that bad become notorious to be treated lightly, I addressed a note to the Secretary, asking specifically whether the officer and alcalde referred to had been punished, and if so, in what way. To this I received for answer that, in the circumstances in which the country was placed by means of an extraordinary popular revolution, and the distrust prevailing in the frontier villages, the local authorities were more suspicious than usual in the matter of passports, and that the outrage, "el atropellamento," which I had FtTE OF LA CONCEPCION. 127 suffered, had its origin in the orders of a military officer, "un oficial rnilitm·," who suspected that I and my companion were "enemies," and that General Cascara, as soon as he was informed of the circumstances, had removed him from his command; the reply went on to say that the government, much to its regret, from the difficult circumstances in which the country was placed, had not tho power to give that security to travellers which it desired, but would issue preventive orders to the local authorities to secure me in my farther travels. In further communications with the Secretary and tho Chief of tho state, they confessed their inability to do anything; and being satisfied that they desired it even more than myself, I did not consider it worth while to press the subject; as indeed, in strictness, I had no right to call upon the state government. The general government had not the least particle of power in the state, and I mention the circumstance to show the utter feebleness of the administration, and the wretched condition of the country generally. It troubled me on one account, as it showed the difficulty and danger of prosecuting the travels I had contemplated. From the moment of my arrival I was struek with the devout character of the city of Guatimala. Every house had its figure of the Virgin, the Saviom, or some tutelary saint, and on the door were billets of paper with prayers. "La verdadera sangre de Cristo, nuestro Redentor, que solo represontada en Egipto libro a los Israelitas do un brazo fuerte y poderoso, libre nos de la peste, guorra, y muerte ropentiua. Amen." "'l'he true blood of Christ our Redeemer, which alone, exhibited in Egypt, freed the Israelites from a strong and powerful arm, deliver us from pestilence, war, and sudden death. Amen." "0 Maria, concebida sin pecado, rogad por nosotros, quo recurrimos a vos.'' "0 Virgin, conceived without sin, pray for us, that we may have recourse to thee." "Ave Maria, gracia plena, y la Santissima Trinidad nos favorezca." " Hail Mary, full of grace, and may the Holy Spirit favour us." "El dolce nomhre de Jesus, Sea con nosotros. Amen," On the first Sunday after my arrival was celebrated the rnte of La Concepcion, a fcte always honoured in the observances of the Catholic Church, and this day more important from the circumstance that a probationer in the convent of La Concepcion intended to take the black veil. At break of day the church bells rang throughout tho city, cannon were fired in the plaza, and rockets and fireworks set off at the corners of tho 128 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. streets. At nine o'clock crowds of people were hurrying to the church of La Concepcion. Before the door, and extending across the streets, were arches decorated with evergreens and flowers. The broad steps of the church were strewed with pine leaves, and on the platform men were firing rockets. The church was one of the handsomest in Guatimala, rich with gold and silYer ornaments, pictures, and figures of saints, and adomed with arches :md flowers. The Padre Aycinena, the vice-president of the state, and the leading member of the Constituent Assembly, was the preacher of the day, and his high reputation attracted a large concourse of people. 'fhe pulpit was at one end of the church, and the great mass of the people were anxious to hear the sermon. This left the other end comparatively vacant, and I placed myself on a step of the nearest altar, directly in front of the grating of the convent. At the close of the sermon there was a discharge of rockets and crackers from the steps of the churcl,, the smoke of which clouded the interior, and the smell of powder was stronger than that of the buming incense. The floor was strewed with pine le:wes, and covered with kneeling women, with black mantillas drawn close over the top of the head, and held together under the chin. I never saw a more beautiful spectacle than these rows of kneeling women, with faces pure and lofty in expression, lighted up by the enthusiasm of religion; and among them, fairer than most and lovely as any, was one from my own land; not more than twenty-two, married to a gentleman belonging to one of the first families of Guatimala, once an exile in the United States. In a new land and among a new people, she had embraced a new faith; and, with the enthusiasm of a youthful convert, no lady in Guatimala was more devout, more regular at mass, or more strict in all the discipline of the Catholic Church than the Sister Susannah. After the fireworks there was a long ceremony at the altar, and then a general rush toward the other extremity of the church. The convent was directly adjoining, and in the partition wall, about six feet from the floor, was a high iron gmting, and about four feet beyond it another, at which the nuns attended the services of the church. Above the iron grating was a wooden one, and from this in a few minutes issued a low strain of wild Indian music, and presently a figure in white, with a long white veil, and a candle in her right hand, and both arms extended, walked slowly to within a few feet of the grating, and then as slowly retired. Presently the same low note issued from the grating below, and we saw advancing a procession of white nuns, with long white veils, each holding in her hand a long lighted candle. The music ceased, and a chant arose, so low that it required intent listening to catch the sound. Advancing two and two I I REi\OUNCIXG THE WORLD. 129 "·ith this low clrn,nt to within a foot of the grating, tho sisters turned off different ways. At the encl of the procession were two black nuns, leading between them the probationer, dressed in white, with a white veil and a wreath of roses round her head. 'l'hc white nuns arranrrecl themselYes on each side, their chant ceased, and the voice of the ;-o-· bationcr was hc:u·cl alone, but so faint that it seemed the breathing of a spirit of air. The white nuns strewed flowers before her, and she advanced between the two black ones. Throe times she stopped and kneclccl, continuing the same low chant, and the last time the white nuns gathered around her, strewing flowers upon her head and in her path. Slowly they led her to the back part of the chapel, and all knccled before the altar. At this time a strnin of music was heard at the other end of the church; a way was cleared through the crowd, rrncl a procession advanced, consisting of the principal priests, clothed in their richest robes, and headed by the venerable Provisor, an octogenarian with white hair, and tottering on the verge of the gra,e, as remarkable for the piety of his life as for his vcnern,ble appearance. A layman bore on a rich frame a gold crown and sceptre studded with jewels. The procession advanced to a small door on the right of the grating, and the two blade nuns and the probationer appeared in the doorway. Some "·onls passed between her and the Provisor, which I understood to be rm examination by him whether her proposed abandonment of the ,vorld was voluntary or not. This over, the Provisor removed the wreath of roses and the white Yeil, and put on her head the crown, and in her hand the sceptre. 'l'l:e music sounded loud notes of triumph, and in a few moments she reappeared at the grating with the crown and sceptre, and a dress sparkling with jewels. The sisters embraced her, and again threw roses upon her. It seemed horrible to heap upon her the pomp and pleasures of the world, at the moment when she was about to bid farewelJ to them for ever. Again she kneelcd before the altar ; and when she rose, the jewels and precious stones, the rich ornaments with which she was decorated, were taken from her, and she returned to the Provisor, who took away the crown and sceptre, and put on her head the black veil. i,gain she appearccl before the grating; the last, the fatal step was not yet taken; the black veil was not drawn. Again the nuns pressed round, and this time they almost devoured her with kisses. I knew nothing of her story. I had not heard that the ceremony was to take place tiJJ late in the evening before, and I had made up my mind that she was old and ugly; but she was not, nor was she faded and worn with so1-ro"·, the picture of a broken heart; nor yet K 130 'rRAVELS IN CENTRAL A:\IERICA, a young ancl beautiful enthusiast; she was not more than twentythrce, and had one of those good faces which, without setting men wild by their beauty, bear the impress of a nature well qualified for the performance of all the duties belonging to daughter, wife, and mother, speaking the kindliness and warmth of a woman's heart. It was pale, and she seemed conscious of the important step, and the solemn vows she was taking, and to have no pangs ; and yet who can read what is passing in the human breast i She rctmned to the Provisor, who drew over her face a black veil; and music rose in bursts of rejoicing, that one who was given to the world to take a share in its bmdens had withdrawn herself from it. Immediately commenced the hum of restrained voices; ancl working my way through the crowd, I joined a party of ladies, one of whom was my fair countrywoman. She was from a small country town in Pennsylvania, and the romance of her feelings toward convents and nuns had not yet worn off. On Carrcra's first invasion she had taken refuge in the convent of La Concepcion, and spoke with enthusiasm of the purity and piety of the nuns, describing some as surpassing in all the attributes of woman. She knew particularly the one who bad just taken the veil, ancl told me that in a few clays she would appear at the grating of the convent to embrace her friends, and bid them farewell, and promised to take me ancl procure me a share in the distrilmtion. During this time rockets were fireq from the steps, and in the street, immediately in front, was a frame of fireworks thirty feet high, which the whole crowd waited on the steps ancl in the street to see set off. Everybody spoke of the absurdity of such an exhibition by daylight, but they &'licl it was the custom. The piece "·as complicated in its structure, and in the centre was a large box. There was a whizzing of wheels, a great smoke, and occasionally a reel flash; and as the extremities burned out, for the finale, with a smart cracking, the box· flew open, and when the smoke cleared away, cliscoverecl the figure of a little black nun, at which all laughed and went away. In the afternoon was the procession in honour of the Virgin. Although Guatimala was dull, and, by the convulsions of the times, debarred all kincls of gaiety, religious processions went on as usual, ancl it would have been an evidence of an expiring state to neglect them. All the streets through which the procession was to pass were strewed with pine leaves, and crossing them were arches decorated with evergreens and flowers ; the long balconied windows were ornamented with curtains of crimson silk, and flags with fanciful devices. At the corners of the streets were altars, under arbours of evergreens A PROCESSION. 131 · as high as tho tops of the houses, adorned with pictures and sil.er ornaments from the chnrches, and tho whole ce>rnred with flowers. Rich as the whole of Central America is in natural productious, the valley of Guatimala is distinguished for the beauty and variety of its flowers ; and for one day the fields were stripped of their clothing to beautify the city. I have seen great fi)tcs in Europe, got up with lavish expenditnre of money, but never anything so simply beautiful. My stroll through the streets before tho procession was the most interesting part of the day. All tho inhabitants, in their best dresses, wore there : the men standing at the corners, and the women, in black mantillas, seated in long ro,,s on each side ; the flags and curtains in the balconied windows, tho green of tho streets, tho profusion of flowers, the vistas through the arches, and tho simplicity of manners which permitted ladies of the first class to mingle freely in the crowd, and sit along the street, formed a picture of beauty that even now relieves the stamp of dulness with which Gnatimala is impressed upon my mind. 'l'he procession for which all these beautiful preparations were made opened with a single Indian, old, wrinkled, dirty, and ragged, bareheaded, and staggering under the loacl of au enormous bass-drum, "·hich ho carried on his back, seeming as old as the conquest, with every cord and the head on one side broken; another Indian followed in the same ragged costume, ,,ith one ponderous drumstick, from time to time striking the old drum. Then came an Indian "ith a largo whistle, corresponding in venerableness of aspect with tho drnm, on which, from time to time, ho gave a fierce blast, and looked around ,vith a comical air of satisfaction for applause. Next followed a little boy about ton years old, wearing a cocked hat, boots above his knees, a drawn sword, and the mask of a hideous African. He was marshalling twenty or thirty persons, not inaptly called the devils, all wearing grotesque and hideous masks, and mgged, fantastic drosses ; some with recd whistles, some knocking sticks together; and the principal actors wore two pseudo-women, with broad-brimmed European hats, frocks high in the necks, waists across the breast, large boots, and each with an old guitur, waltzing and dancing au occasional fandango. How it happened that these devils, who, of course, excitccl laughter in tho crowd, came to form p:nt of a religious procession, I could not learn. The boys followed them, just as they do the military ,vith us at a review; and, in fact, with the Guatimala boys, ther~ is no good procession "ithout good clcYils. Next, and in striking contrast, came four beautiful boys, six or eight yearn old, dressed iu "·hite frocks ull(l pantalettcs, with ,,Lito K 2 ]32 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A1IERICA. gauze veils over wreaths of roses, perfect emblems of purity; thm four young priest.;, bearing golden candlesticks, with wax candles lighted; and then four Indians, carrying on their shoulders the figure of an angel larger than life, with expanded wings made of gauze, puffed out like a cloud, and intended to appear to float in air, but dressed more after the fashion of this world, with the frock rather short, and the suspenders of tho stockings of pink riband. 'l'hen, borne as before, on the shoulders of Indians, larger than life, the figure of Judith, with a drawn sword in one hand, and in the other the gory head of Holofcrnes. Then another angel, with a cloud of silk OVGr her head, and then the great object of veneration, La Virgen de la Concepcion, on a low hand-barrow, richly decorated with gold and silver, and a profusion of flowers, and protected by a rich silken canopy, npborne on the ends of four gilded poles. Priests followed in their costly dresses, one under a silken canopy, holding up the Host, before the imaginary splendour of which all fell on their knees. The whole concluded with a worse set of devils than those which led the procession, being about 500 of Carrera's soldiers, dirty and ragged, with fanaticism added to theii· usual expression of ferocity, and carrying their muskets without any order ; the officers dressed in any costume they could command; a few, with black hat and silver or gold band, like footmen, carried their heads very high. Many were lame from gunshot wounds badly cured ; and a gentleman who was with me pointed out several who were known to have committed assassinations and murders, for which, in a country that had any government, they would have been hung. The city was at their mercy, ,md Carrera was the only man living " ·ho had any control over them. At the head of the street the procession filed off in the cross streets, and the figure of the Virgin was taken from its place and set up on the altar. The priests kneeled before it and prayed, and the whole crowd fell on their knees. I was at the corner near the altar, which commanded a view of four streets, and rising a little on one knee, saw in all the streets a dense mass of kneeling figures, rich men and beggars, lovely women and stupid-looking Indians, fluttering btmners and curtains in balconied windows, and the figures of angels in their light grmze drapery seeming to float in air; while the loud chant of the crowd, swollen by the deep chorus of the soldiers' voices, produced a scene of mingled beauty and deformity at once captivating and repulsive. This over, all rose, the Virgin was replaced on her throne, and the procession again moved. At the next altar I turned aside, and went to the square in front of the Church of San Francisco, the place A FIERY l\ULL. 133 'fixed for the grand fiuale of the honours to the Virgin, the exhibition -0f fireworks ! At d::1rk the procession entered the foot of a street leading to the square. It approached with a loud chant, and at a distance nothing ,rns visible but a long train of buming candles, making the street light as day. The devils were still at its head, and its arrival in the Equare was announced by a discharge of rockets. In a few minutes the :first piece of fireworks was set off from the balustrade of the chmch ; the figures on the roof were lighted by the glare, and, though not built expressly for that pmpose, the church answered exceedingly well for the exhibition. The next piece was on the ground of the square, a national one, and as much a favourite in the exhibition of fireworks as the devils in a l'eligious pl'ocession, called the Toros, or Bnll, being a frame covere<l 1"ith pasteboal'd, in the form of a bull, covel'ed on the outside with firewol'ks; into this figure a man thrust his head and shoulders, and, with nothing but his legs visible, rushed into the thickest of the crowd, scattering on all sides streams of fire. I was standing with a party of ladies and several members of the Constituent Assembly, the fatter of whom were speaking of an invasion of troops from Quezaltenango, and the sally of Carrera to l'epcl them. As the tol'OS came at us, we retreated till we could go no farther; the ladies scl'eamecl, and we bravely turned our backs; and holding down om heads, sheltered them from the sho\\'cr of fire. All said it was dangerous, but it was the custom. There was more cheerfulness and gaiety than I kid yet &eon in Guatimala, and I felt sorry when the exhibition was over. Continuing on our way, we passed a guardhouse, where a group of soldiers were lying at full length, so as to make everybody pass off the walk and go round them. Perhaps three or fom thousand people, a large portion ladies, \Yere turned off. All felt the insolence of these follows, and I haye no doubt some felt a stroug disposition to kick them out of the way; but, though young meu enough passed to drive the whole troop out of the city, no complaint was made, and no notice whatever taken of it. In one of the corridors of the plaza another soldier lay on his back crosswise, with bis musket by his side, and muttering to everybody that passed, "Tread on me if you dare, and you'll see!" and we all took good care uot to tread on him. I returned to my house, to pass the evening in solitude; and it was melancholy to reflect that with the elements of so much happiness, Guatimala was made so miserable. 13-t TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER XI. .TIIE P.ROYISOR-NEWS O.F TrIE DAY, now PUDLTSHED I'.S" Gt;ATIMAL.\.-VISIT TO TIIE CONYE~T OF LA CONCEPCIO'.S"-THE l,'AREWELL 01•' THE NUN-CARRERA-SKETCH OF HIS LIFE-THB CHOLERA-I~SURRECTIONS- CARRERA HEADS THE IXSURGENTS-HIS Al'PEAR.\NCE IY GUATIMALA-CAPTURE OF THE CITY-CARRERA TRIUMPHANT-ARRIVAL OP )lORAZ.\NJIOSTILITlES-FURSUIT Ql,' CARRERA-IIIS DE.FEAT-HE IS AGAIN UPPERl'tlOST-JNTERVIEW WITH CARRER.\.-IIIS CHARACTER, THE next three or four days I p::issed in receiving and paying visits, and in making myself acquainted with the condition of the country. Among the most interesting visitors was the venerable Provisor, since the banishment of the archbishop the head of the church, -who, by a late bull of the Pope, had been appointed bishop; but, owing to the troubled times, had not yet been installed. A friend in Baltimore had procured for me a letter from the Roman Catholic archbishop in that city, to whom I here aclmo-wledge my obligations, recommending me to all his brother ecclesiastics in Central America. The venerable Provisor received this letter as from a brother in the Church, and upon the strength of it, afterwards, when I set out for Palenque, gave me a letter of recommendation to all the curas under his charge. During the day my time passed agreeably enough; but the evenings, in which I was obliged to keep within doors, were long and lonely. My house was so near the plaza that I could hear the sentinels' challenge, and from time to time the report of a musket. These reports, in the stillness of night, were always startling. For some time I did not know the cause; but at length learned that cows and mules straggled about the city, which, heard moving at a distance and not answering the challenge, were fired upon without ceremony. There 'was but one paper in Guatimala, and that a weekly, imd a mere chronicler of decrees and political movements. City news passed by word of mouth. Every morning everybody asked his neighbour what was the news. One day it was that an old deaf woman, who could not hear the sentinel's cliallenge, had been shot; another, that Asturias, a rich old citizen, had been stabbed; and another morning the report circulated that thirty-three nuns in the c01went of Santa Teresa had been poisoned. This was a subject of excitement for several clays, when the nuns all recovered, and it was ascertained that they had suffered from the unsentimental circumstance of eatiug food that did not agree with them. On Friday, in company with my fair countrywoman, I visited the CARRERA, 135 convent of La Concepcion for the purpose of embracing a nun, or rather tlie nun, who had t::tken the black veil. The room adjoining the pmfatoria of the convent was crowded, and she was standing in the doorway with the crown on her head and a doll in her hand. It was the last time her friends could see her face; but this puerile exhibition of the doll detracted from the sentiment. It was an occasion that addressed itself particularly to ladies; some wondered that one so young should abandon a world to them beaming with bright and beautiful prospects ; others, with whom the dreams of life had passed, looked upon her retirement as the pm-t of wisdom. They embraced her, and retired to make room for others. Before our turn came there ~rns an irruption of those objects of my detestation, the eternal soldiers, who, leaving their muskets at the door, forced their way through the crowd, and presenting themselves, though respectfully, for an embrace, retired. By her side was a black nun, with a veil so thick tha,t not a lineament of her face could be seen, whom my countrywoman had known during her seclusion in the convent, and described as young, of exceeding beauty and loveliness, and around whom she threw a charm which almost awakened a spirit of romance. I would have made some sacrifice for one glimpse of her face . At length our turn came; my fair companion embraced her, and, after many farewell words, recommended me as her countryman. I never had much practice in embracing nuns; in fact, it was the first time I ever attempted such a thing; but it came as natural as if I had been brought up to it. l\fy right arm encircled her neck, her right arm mine; I rested my head upon her shoulder, and she hers upon mine; but a friend's grandmother never received a more respectful embrace. "Stolen joys are al ways clearest;" there were too many looking on. The grating closed, ~ncl the face of the nun will never be seen again. 'l'hat afternoon Carrera returned to the city. I was extremely desirous to know him, and made an arrangement with Mr. Pavon to call upon him the next day. At ten o'clock the next morning Mr. Pavon called for me. I was told that this formidable chief was taken by external show, and put on the diplomatic coat, with a great profusion of buttons, which had produced such an effect at Copan, and which, by- the-"·ay, owing to the abominable state of the country, I never had an opportunity of wearing afterwm·ds, and the cost of which ,ms a dead loss. Carrera ,rns living in a small house in a retired street. Sentinels were at the door, and eight or ten soldiers basking in the sun outside, part of a body-gum·cl, who had been fitted out \Yith reel bombazet jackets and tartan plaid caps, and made a much better appeamnce than 136 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. any of his soldiers I had before seen. Along tho corridor was a row of muskets, bright and in good order. "\Ve entered a small room adjoining tho sala, and saw Carrera sitting at a table counting money. Ever since my arrival in the country this name of terror had Leen ringing in my ears. ]\,fr, Montgomery, to whom I have before referred, and who arrived in CentrnJ America about a year before me, says, "An insurrection, I was told, had taken place among the Indians, who, under the directions of a man called Carrera, were ravaging the country and committing all kiuds of excesses. Along the coast, and in some of the departments, tranquillity had not been disturbed; but in the interior there was no safety for the traveller, and every avenue to the capital was beset by parties of brigands, who showed no mercy to their victims, especially if they were foreigners ;" and in referring to the posture of affairs at his departmo he adds, "It is probable, however, that ·while this is being written, the active measures of General Morazan for putting down the insurrection have been successful, and that the career of this rebel hero has been brought to a close." But the career of the "rebel hero" was not brought to a close; the "man called Carrera" was now absolute master of Guatimala; and, if I am not deceived, ho is destined to become more conspicuous than any other leader who has yet risen in the convulsions of Spanish America. He is a native of one of the wards of Guatimala. His friends, in compliment, call him a mulatto ; I, for the same reason, call him an Indian, considering that the better blood of the two. In 1820 he was a drummer-boy in Colonel Aycinena's regiment. "\.Yhen the Liberal or Democratic party prevailed, and General J\lorazan entered the city, Carrera broke his drum and retired to the village of Matasquintla. Here he entered into business as a pig-driver, and for several years continued in this respectable occupation, probably as free as one of his own pigs from any dreams of future greatness. The excesses of political parties, severe exactions for tho support of government, encroachments upon the property of the Chmch, and innovations, particulm:ly the introduction of the Livingston Code, establishing tri.tl by jury, and making marriage a civil contract, created discontent throughout the country. The last gave great offence to the clergy, who exercised an unbounded influence over the minds of the Indians. In 1837 the cholera, which, in its destrnctive march over the habitable world, had hitherto spared this portion of the American continent, made its terrible appearance, and, besides strewing it with dead, proved tho immediate cause of political convulsions. 'rhe priests persuaded the Indians that the foreigners had poisoned the waters. Galvez, who was at that time the chief of the state, sent medicines into all the yillages, CARRERA HEADS THE INSURGENTS. 137 ·,vhich being ignorantly administered, sometimes produced fatal consequences; and the priests, always opposed to the Liueral party, persuaded the Indians that the government was endeavouring to poison and destroy their race. The Indians became excited all over the country; and in Matasqnintla they rose in mass, with Carrera at their head, crying "Viva ht Religion, y muerte a los Estnmgeros ! " The first blow was struck by murdering the judges appointed under the Livingston Code. Galvez sent a commission, with detachments of cavalry and a white flag, to hear their complaints; but while conferring with the insurgents they were surrounded, ancl almost all of them cut to pieces. 'rhe number of the disaffected increased to more than 1,000, and Galvez sent against them GOO troops, who routed them, plundered ancl bumcd their' villages, and, among other excesses, the last outrage was perpetrated upon Carrera's wife. Roused to fury by this personal wrong, he joined ·with several chiefs of villages, vowing never to lay clown his arms while an officer of MoraZfln remained in the state. ·with a few infuriated followers he went from village to village, killing the judges and govemment officers, when pursued escaping to the mountains, begging tortillas at the haciendas for his men, and sparing and protecting all who assisted him. At this time he could neither read nor write ; but, urged on and assisted by some priests, particularly one Padre Lobo, a notorious profligate, he issued a proclamation, having his name stamped at the foot of it, against strangers and the government, for attempting to poison the I nclians, demanding tho destrnction of all foreigners excepting the Spaniards, the abolition of the Livingston Code, a rccal of the archbishop and friars, the expulsion of heretics, and a restoration of the privileges of the Church and old usages and customs. His fame spread as a higll\rnyman and murderer ; the rnads about Guatimala ,rnre unsafe; all travelling was broken up ; the merchants were thrown into consternation by intelligence that the whole of the goods sent to the fair at Esquipulas had fallen into his hands (which, h-0wcvcr, proved untrue); and very soon he became so strong that ho attacked villages and even towns. 'l'he reader will bear in mind that this was in the State of Guatimala. 'The Liberal party was dominant, but at this critical moment a fatal division took place among its members; Barundia, a leading member, disappointed of a high office for a profligate relative, deserted the administration, and appeared in the Assembly at the head of the opposition. Party distraction and the rising of Carrera stirred np all who were dissatisfied with the government; and the citizens of the Antigua, ab011t twenty-five miles distant, sent in a petition for a decree of amnesty for political offences, allowing exiles to return, and a redress of 138 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. other grievances. A deputation of the Assembly was sent to confer with them, which returned unsuccessful, and the Antiguans threatened to march against Guat.imala. On Sunday, the 20th of February (1838), proclamations of the Antig1mnos were found strewed in the streets, and there was a general • alarm that the Antiguanos were on their march to attack the city. Tho troops of the general government (less than 500 in number) and the militia were mustered; cannon placed at the corners of the square, and sentinels in the streets; and General Prom published a bando, calling upon all citizens to take up arms. Galvez, the chief of the state, mounted his horse, and rode through the streets, endea,ouring to rouse the citizens, and giving out that Morazan was on his march, and had defeated 300 of Carrera's gang. On Monday all business was suspended. Galvez, in great perplexity, reinstated some officers who had been dismissed, and appointed Mexia, a Spaniard, lieutenantcolonel; which gave such disgust that Prem and all the officers sent in their resignations. Galvez begged and implored them to continue, reconciling himself to each individually; and at length, on his revoking the commission of Mexia, they consented. At two o'clock it was rumom-ed that Carrera had joined the Antiguanos. Prem published a decree that all males from fourteen to sixty, except priests and persons labouring under physical imbecility, should take up arms. At nine o'clock at night there was an alarm that a party of Can-era's gang was at the Aycetuna. The square was garrisoned, ::md sentinels and cannons placed at the corners of the streets. To add to the excitement, during tho night the Provisor died, and news was received that the Livingston Code had been publicly burned at Chiquimula, and that the town had declared against Galvez. On \Vednesday morning fosses were commenced at the corners of the public square ; but on Thursday the Marquis of Aycinena, the leader of the Central party, by a conference with the divided Liberals, succeeded in inducing a majority of deputies to sign a convention of amnesty, which gave general satisfaction, and tho next day the city was perfectly quiet. At mid-day this calm proved the forerunner of a dreadful storm. The troops of the Federal government, the only reliable force, revolted, and with bayonets fixed, colours flying, and cannon in front, left the barracks and marched into the plaza. They refused to ratify the convention by which, it was represented to them, Galvez was to be deposed, and Valenzuela, the vice-chief, and a tool of Barundia, appointed in his stead. They refused to serve under any of the opposition, and said they could give protection, and had no occasion to ask it. Deputies were cited t o attend a meeting of the Asseml>ly, but CIVJL irAR. 139 they were afraid to convene. The officers had a conference with the soldiers; and Merino, a sergeant, drew np a document requiring the President i\Iorazan to be sent for, and Galvez to remain chief until his arrival. This ·was assented to. Deputies were sent requesting Morazan to come to Guatin::ala, and also to the Antigua, to explain the circumstances of violating the convention; but they were unsuccessful, and tho same night the alarm-bell announced the approach of 800 men to attack the city. The militia were called to arms, but only about forty appeared. At half-past five Galvez formed the government troops, and, accompanied by Prem, marched from the plaza to meet the rebels; but Lefore he reached the gate a conspiracy broke out among the troops, and with the cry "Viva el General Merino, y nrncra el Gefe del Estado, qui nos ha vendido-fuego, muchachos ! " "Lim General Merino, and die the chief of the state, "·ho has solcl us-fire, boys ! " the infantry fired upon the etat major. A ball passed through Prom's hat; Gah·ez was thrown from his horse, but escaped, and took refuge bchincl the altar of the Church of La Concepcion. Yai'lez succeeded in dispersing the troops with his ca,alry, and rcturnccl to the square, leaving fifteen deacl in the street. Merino, with about 120 men, took possession of the small field-piece of the battalion, and stationed himself in the square of Guadaloupe. Parties of the dispersed troops remained out all night, firing their muskets, and keeping the city in a state of alarm; but Yanez saved it from plunder by patrolling with his canlry. In the morning i\Icrino asked permission to march into tho plaza. His number had increased by the return of straggling parties; and on forming in the plaza ho and three or four of the ringleaders were ordered to leave the ranks, and sent to prison in the convent of San Domingo, "·here, on i\Ionclay aftemoon, he was tied to a stake in his cell and shot. His grnve at tho foot of the stake, and blood spattered on the wall, were among the curiosities shown to me in Guatimala. On Sunday morning tho bells again sounded tho alarm; the rebels were at the old gate, and commissioners were sent out to treat with them. 'l'hoy demanded an evacuation of the plaza by the soldiers; but tho sol<liers answered indignantly, that the rebels might come and take tho square. Prem softened this into an answer that they could not surrender to rebels, and at about half-past twelve at night tho attack commenced. Tho rebels scattered in the suburbs, wasting powder and bullets, and in the morning Yanez, with~scventy cavalry, made a ~ally, and, routing 300 of them, returned into the plaza with hnccs recking with blood. Probably, if he had been seconded by the citizens, he would have driven them all back to tho Antigua. 140 TUA VELS IN CEN'l'RAL AMERICA, On Wednosrfay Carrera joined tho rebels. Ho had sent his emissaries to the villages, rousing the Indians, and promising them the plnnder of Guatimala; and on Thursday, with a tumultuous mass of half-naked savages, men, women, and children, estimated at 10,000 ol' 12,000, presented himself at the gate of the city. 'l'he Antiguanos themselves were strnck with consternation, and tho citizens of Guatimala were thrown into a state bordering on distraction. Commissioners ,vere again sent out to treat ,vith him, from whom he demanded the deposition of Galvez, the chief of the state, the evacuation of the plaza by the Federal troops, and a free passage into the city. Probably, even at this time, if the Federal troops had been supported by the citizens, they could have resisted the entry; but the consternation, and the fear of exasperating the rebellious hordes, were so great, that nothing "·as thought of but submission. The Assembly met in terror and distraction, and the result was an assent to all that was demanded. At five o'clock the small band of government troops evacuated the plaza. The infantry, amounting to three hundred, marched out by the Calle Real, or Royal-street. 'l'he cavalry, seventy in number, exclusive of officers, on their march through another street, met an aid-de-camp of Carrera, \Yho ordered them to lay down their arms. Yailez answered that he must first see his general; but the dragoons, suspecting some treachery on the part of Y alenzuela, became pauicstrnck, and fled. Yaiiez, with thirty-five men, galloped through the city, and escaped by the road to Mixco ; the rest rushed back into the plaza, threw down their lances in disgust, dismounted and disappeared, when not a single man was left under arms. In the meantime Carrera's hordes were advancing. The commandant of the Antiguans asked him if he had his masses divided into squares or companies ; Carrera answered, "No entiendo nada de esto. Todo es uuo." "I don't understand anything of that. It is all the same." Among his leaders were Mom·eal and other known outlaws, criminals, robbers, and murderers. He himself was on horseback, with a green bush in his hat, and hung round with pieces of dirty cotton cloth, covered with pictures of the sain~s. A gentleman who saw them from the roof of his house, and who was familiar with all the scenes of terror which had taken place in that unhappy city, told me that he never felt such consternation and horror as when he saw the entry of this immense mass of barbarians ; choking up the streets, all with green bushes in their hats, seeming at a distance like a moving forest; armed with rusty muskets, old pistols, fowling-pieces, some with locks and some without; sticks formed into the shape of CAPTt"l\E OF TilE CITY. 141 muskets, with tin-plate locks; clubs, machetes, and knives tied to the ends of long poles; and swelling the multitude were two or three thousand women, with sacks and alfo1jas for carrying away the plunder. Many, "·ho had never left their villages before, looked wild at the sight of the houses and churches, and the magnificence of the city. They entered the pluzn, vociferating," Viva la religion, y muertc a los estmngeros ! " Carrera himself, amazed at tl,e immense ball be had set in motion, was so embarrassed that he could not guide his horse. He aftenrnrJs said that he was frightenccl at the difficulty of controlling this huge and disorderly mass. The traitor Barundia, the leader of the opposition, the Catiline of this rebellion, rode by his side on his entry into the plaza. At sundowi1 the whole multitude set up the Salve, or Hymn to the Virgin. 'l'he s\\·cll of human voices filled the air, and made the hearts of the inhabitants quake with fear. Carrera entered the Cathedral ; the Indians, in mute astonishment at its magnificence, thronged in after him, and set up around the beautiful altar the uncouth images of their village saints. Monreal broke into the house of General Prem, and seized a uniform coat, richly embroidered with gold, into which Carrera slipped his arms, still wearing his straw hat with its green bush. A watch "·as brought him, but he did not know the use of it. Probably, since the invasion of Romo by Alaric and the Goths, no ciYilized city was ever visited by such an inundation of barbarians. And Carrera alone had po"ll·er to control the wild clements around him. As soon as possible some of the authorities sought him out, and in the most abject terms begged him to state on what conditions he would evacuate the city. He demanded the deposition of Galvez, the chief of the state, all the money, and all the arms the government could command. The priests were the only people who had any influence with him, and words cannot convey any idea of the awful state of suspense which the city suffered, dreading cyery moment to hear the signal given for general pillage and massacre. 'l'he inhabitants shut themselves up in their houses, which, being built of stone, with iron balconies to the windows, and doors several inches thick, resisted the assaults of straggling parties; but atrocities more than enough were committed, as it seemed, preliminary to a general sacking. 'l'he vicepresident of the republic was mnrdcred; the house of Flores, a deputy, sacked, his mother knocked down by a villain with the butt of a musket, and one of his daughters shot in the arm with two balls. The house of :Messrs. Klee, Skinner, and Co., the principal foreig11 merchants in Guatimala, which was reported to contain ammunition. and arms, was several times attackecl with great ferocity; having strong 142 THA. VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. balconied windows, and the door being secured by b:1les of merchandise piled up within, it resisted the assaults of an undisciplined mob, armed only with clubs, muskets, knives, and machetes. Tho priests ran through the streets bearing the crucifix, in the name of tho Virgin and saints restraining the lawless Indians, stilling tho wildness of passion, and saving the terrified inhabitants. Ancl I cannot help mentioning one whose name was iu everybody's mouth, l\Ir. Charles Savage, at that time United States consul, who, in the midst of the most furious assault upon l\fr. Klee's house, rushed down the street under a shower of bullets, knocking up bayonets and machetes, drove the mob back from the door, and, branding them as robbers and murderers, with his white hair streaming in the wind, poured out such a torrent of indignation and contempt, that the Indians, amazed at his audacity, desisted. After this, with an almost wanton exposure of life, he was seen in the midst of every mob. To the astonishment of everybody, he was not killed ; and the foreign residents presented him a unanimous letter of thanks for his fearless and successful exertions in the protection of life and property. Pending the negotiation, Carrera, dressed in Prem's uniform, endeavoured to restrain his tumultuous followers ; but several times he said that he could not himself resist the temptation to sack Klee's house, and those of the other Ingleses. There was a strange dash of fanaticism in tho character of this lawless chieftain. The battle-cry of his hordes was, "Viva la religion!" The palace of the archbishop had been suffered to be used as a theatre by tho Liberals ; Carrera demanded the keys, and, putting them in his pocket, declared that, to prevent any future pollution, it should not be opened again until the banished archbishop returned to occupy it. At length the terms upon which he consented to withdraw were agTeed upon, viz. eleven thousand dollars in silver; ten thousand to be distributed among his followers, and one thousand for his own share ; a thousand muskets, and a commission as lieutenant-colonel for himself. The amount of money was small as the price of relief from such imminent danger, but it was an immense sum in the eyes of Carrera and his followers, few of whom were worth more than the rags on their backs, and the stolen arms in their hands ; and it was not easily raised ; the treasury was bankrupt, and the money was not very cheerfully contributed by the citizens. The madness of consenting to put in the hands of Carrera a thousand muskets was enly equalled by the absmdity of making him a lieutenant-colonel. On the afternoon of the third day the money was paid, the muskets delivered, and Carrera ,ms invested with the command of the 1Jl'oviucc APPEARANCE OF RE-ACTION. 143 of Mita, a district near Guatimala. The joy of tho inhabitants at the , prospect of his immediate departure was without bounds ; but at the last moment an awful rumour spread, that the wild bands had evinced an uncontrollable eagerness, before leaving, to sack the city. A random discharge of muskets in the plaza confirmed this rumour, and the effect was dreadful, An hour of terrible suspense followed, but at five o'clock they filed off in straggling crowds from the plaza. At the Plaza de Toros they halted, and, firing their muskets in the air, created another panic. A rumour was revived that Carrera had demanded 4,000 dollars more, and that, unless he received it, he wonld return and take it by force. Carrera himself did actually retum, and demanded a fieldpiece, which was given him; and at length, leaving behind him a document rnquiring the redress of certain grievances, to the unspeakable joy of all the inhabitants he left the city. · 'l'he delight of the citizens at being relieved from the pressure of immediate danger was indeed great, but there was no return of confidence, and, unhappily, no healing of political animosities. Valenzuela was appointed chief of the state; the Assembly renewed its distracted sessions; Barundia, as the head of the now ministerial party, proposed to abolish all the unconstitutional decrees of Gal 1·ez ; money was wanted, and recourse had to the old system of forced loans. This exasperated the moneyed men; and in the midst of discord and confusion, news ,rns received that Quczaltenango, one of the departments of Guatimala, had seceded, and declared itself a separate sfate. At this time, too, the government rcceiYed a Jetter from Carrera, stating that he had been informed, since his arrival at Matasquintla, that people spoke ill of him in the capital, and if they continued to do so, he had 4,000 men, and would return and put things right. From time to time he sent a message to the same effect by some straggling Indian who happened to pass tln·ough his village. Afterward it was reported that his followers had renounced his authority, and commenced operations on their own account, threatening the city with another invasion, determined, according to their proclamations, to exterminate the whites, and estal,Jish a government of pardos libres, "free tigers," and enjoy in their own right the lands which had devolved upon them by their emancipation from the dominion of the whites. To the honom- of Guatimala, a single spark of spirit broke forth, and men of all classes took up arms; but it was a single flash, and soon died away. Again intelligence arrived that Carrera himself had sent out his emissaries to summon his hordes for another march upon the city. Seyeral families received prirnte information and advice to seek safety in 144 'l'IlA. VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. flight. Hundreds of people did so, and the roads were crowded with processions of mules, horses, and Indians loaded with luggage. On Sunday cYerybody "·as going, and early on Monday morning guards were placed at the barriers. Hundreds of passports were applied for, and refused. Again a decree was published that all should take up arms. 'L'he militia were again mustered. At ten o'clock on Tuesday night it was said that Carrera was at Palencia, at eleven that he Imel gone to suppress an insurrection of his o,vn bancli ts, and on \Vednesday night that he was at a place called Canales. On Sunday, the 4th of March, a review took place of about 700 men. The Antigua sent 350 mnskets, and ammunition, which they did not consider it prudent to keep, as there had been cries of "muem Guatimala, y viva Carrera !" and placards beariug the same ominous ,rnrds had been posted on the walls. At this time a letter was received from Carrera by the government, telling them to disband their troops, and assuring them that he was collecting forces only to destroy a party of 400 rebels, headed by one Galvez (the former chief of the state, whom he had deposed), and requesting two cannon and more ammunition. At another time, probably supposing that the government must lie interested in his fortunes, he sent word that he had narrowly escaped being assassinated. Monreal had taken advantage of an opportunity, seduced his men, tied him to a tree, and was in the very act of having him shot, when his brother Laureano Carrera rushed in, and ran :Monreal through with his bayonet. The government now conceived the project of inducing his followers, by the influence of the priests, to surrender their arms on paying them five dollars apiece; but very soon he was heard of stronger than ever, occnpying all the roads, sending in imperious proclamations to the govemmcnt, and at length the news came that ho was actually marching upon the city. At this time, to the unspeakable joy of the inhabitants, General Morazan, the president of the republic, arrived from San Salvador, with 1,500 men. But even yet party spirit was dominant. General i\Iorazan encamped a few leagues from the city, hesitating to enter it or to employ the forces of the general government in putting down a revolution in the state except with the consent of the state government. The state government was jealous of the federal government, tenacious of prerogatives it had not the courage to defend, and demanded from the pre• sident a plan of his campaign ; passed a decree offering Carrera and his followers fifteen days to lay down their arms, which General l\forazan would not permit to be published at his headquarters ; two days after• wards annulled it, and authorized the president of the republic to act as circumstances might require. HOSTILITIES. 145 Duriug this time one of Morazan's piquets had been cut off and the officers murdered, which created a great excitement among his soldiers; but, anxious to avoid shedding more blood, be sent into the city for the Canonigo Castillo and Barundia, deputing them as commissioners to persuade the bandits to surrender their arms, even offering to pay fifteen dollats a head rather than come to extremities. 'l'he commissioners found Carrera at one of his old haunts among tho mountains of Matasquintla surrounded by hordes of Indians living upon tortillas. Tho traitor Barundia had been received by :Morazan's soldiers with groans ; his poor jaded horse was tied up at :Morazan's camp a day and a half without a blade of grass; and, as a farther reward of his treason, Carrera refused to meet him uuder a roof, because, aR ho said, he did not wish to plunge his new lance, a present from a priest, into Barundia's breast. 'Uie meeting took place in the open air, and on the top of a mountain. Ca1Tera refused to lay down his arms unless all his former demands were complied with, and unless also the Indian capitation ta.'c was reduced to one-third of its amount ; but he softened his asperity against foreigners to the demand that ouly those not married should be expelled the country, and that thereafter they should be permitted to traffic only, and not to radicatc in it. Tho atrocious priest Padre Lobo, his constant friend and adviser, was with him. The arguments of the Canonigo Castillo, particularly in regard to the folly of charging the government with an attempt to poison the Indians, were listened to with much attention by them, but Carrera broke up tho couference by assorting vehemently that the governmennt ha<l offered him twenty dollars a head for every Iudian he poisoned. All hope of compromise was now at an end, and General Morazan marched directly to Matasqnintla; but before he rcached it, Carrera's bands had disappeared among the mountains. Ho heard of them in another place, devastating the country, desolating villages and towns, and again, before his troops could reach them, tho muskets "·~re concealed, and the Indians either in the mountains or quietly working in the fields. Mr. Hall, the British vice-consul, received a letter from eleven British subjects at Salama, a distance of three days' journey, stating that they had been seized at night by a party of Carrera's troops, stripped of everything, confined two nights and a day without food, and sentenced to be shot, but finally ordered to leave the country, which they were then doing, destitute of everything, and bogging their "·ay to the port. A few nights a~cr, at ten o'clock, the cannon of alarm was sounded in the city, and it was reported that Carrera was again at the gates. All this time party strife was as violent as ever; L I 146 TRAVELS IN CEKTRAL AMERICA , the Centralists trembling with apprehension, but in their hearts rejoicing at tho distraction of the country under the administration of the Liberals, and that one had risen up capable of inspiring them with terror; and the divided Liberals hating each other with a more intense hate even than the Centralists hore to them ; but the excitement became so great that all the parties drew up separate petitions to General I\Iorazau, representing the deplorable state of insecurity in tl,e city, and beggiug him to enter and provide for its safety. Separate sets of deputies hmried to anticipate each other at General I\Iorazan's headquarters, and pay court to him by being the first to ask his protection. General I\Iorazan had become acquainted with the distracted condition of the city, and was in the act of mounting his horse when the deputies arrived. On Sunday be entered with an escort of 200 soldiers, amid the ringing of bells, firing of cannon, and other demonstrations of joy. 'l'he same day the merchants, with the Marquis of Aycinena and others of the Central party, presented a petition representing the dreadful state of public feeling, and requesting l\forazan to depose the state authorities and assume the reins of government, and to convoke a Constituent Assembly, as the only means of saving Gnatimala from utter ruin. In the evening deputies from the different branches of the Liberal party had Jong conferences with the president. Morazan answered all that he wished to act legally, would communicate with the Assembly tho next day, and be governed by their decision. The proceedings in the Assembly are too afflicting and disgraceful to dwell upon. So far as I can understand the parly strife of that time, after wading through papers and pamphlets emanating from both sides, General l\forazan conducted himself with probity and honour. The Centralists made a desperate effort to attach him to them, but he would not accept the offered embrace, nor tho sycophantic service of men who had always opposed him; nor would he sustain what he believed to be wrong in his own partisans. In the mean time, Carrera was gaining ground; he had routed several detachments of the Federal troops, massacred men, and increased his stock of ammunition and arms. At length all agreed that something must be clone; and at a final meeting of the Assembly, with a fee ling of desperation, it was decreed without debate, 1. That tho state government should retire to the Antigua. 2. That the president, in pe1·son or by clelogato, shonld govern the district according to article 176 of the Constitution. Amid these scenes within the city, and rumours of worse from witho~t, on Sunday night a ball was given to Morazan ; but the Centralists, displeased at his not acceding to their overtures, did not attend. DF:FEAT OF CARRERA. 14'/ Galvez, the chief deposed by Carrera, made his first appearance since his deposition, and danced the whole time. Though Morazan was irresolute in the cabinet, he was all energy in the field; and being now invested with full power, sustained his high reputation as a skilful soldier. The bulletin of the army for May and June exhibits the track of Carrera, devastating villages and towns, and the close pursuit. of the government troops, beating him wherever they found him, but never able to secure his person. In the mean time, party jealousies continued, and the state government was in a state of anarchy. Tho Assembly could not meet, because, the state party not attending, it was incumbent on the vice-chief to retire, and tho oldest counsellor to take his place. But there was no such person ; the term of the council had expired, and no new elections had been held; and while J\forazan was dispersing the wild bands of Carrera, and relieving the Guatimalians from the danger which had brought them to their knees before him, the old jealousies revived, and incendiary publications were issued, charging him with exhausting the country in supporting idle soldiers, and keeping the city in subjection by bayonets. About the first of July, General J\forazrm considered Guatimala relieved from all external danger, and returned to San Salvador, leaving troops in different towns under the command of Carvallo, and appointing Carlos Salazar commandant in the city. Carrera was supposed to be completely put down ; and to bring things to a close, Carvallo published the following "NOTICE. "The person or persons who may deliver the criminal Rafael Carrera, dead or alive (if he does not present himself voluntarily under the last pardon), shall receive a reward of fifteen hundred dollart- and t"o cabellerias of land, and pardon for any crime he has committed. "The General-in-chief, "Gualimala, July 20, 1838. "J. N. CARVALLO." But the "criminal" Carrera, the proscribed outlaw, was not yet put down. One by one, he surprised the detachments of Federal troops ; and while the city exhibited the fierceness of party spirit, forced loans, complaints of the expense of maintaining idle soldiers, plans to abolish the state government and form a provisional juuta, its actual prostration, and the organizing of a Constituent Assembly with M. Rive1~t Paz at the head, Carrera with still increasing numbers, attacked Amatitan, took tho Antigua, and barely waiting to sack a few houses, stripped it of caimon, muskets, and ammunition, and again marched against Guatimala, proclaiming his intention to raze every house to the ground, and murder every white inhabitant. L 2 1.1,g TRAVELS IN CEN'l'RAL AMElUCA. The consternation in the city cannot be conceived. General Morazan was again solicited to come. A line iu pencil was received from him by a man who carried it sewed up in the sleeve of bis coat, urging the city to defend itself, and bold out for a few days; but the danger was too imminent; Salaz,ir, at the head of the Federal troops (tho idle soldiers complained of), marched ont at two o'clock in the morning, and, aided by a thick fog, came upon Carrera suddenly at Villa Nueva, killed 450 of his men, and completely routed him, Carrera himself being badly wounded in the thigh. The city was saved from destruction, and, the day after, Morazan entered with 1,000 men. 'l'hc shock of the immense danger they bad escaped was not yet over; on the morrow it might return; party jealousies were scared away; all looked to General Morazan as the only man who could effectually save them from Carrera, and, in turn, begged him to accept the office of dictator. About the same time Guzman, the general of Quczalteuango, arrived, with 700 men, and General Morazan made formidable arrangements to enclose and crush the Cachurecos. The result was the same as before: Carrera was coustantly beaten, but as constantly escaped. His followers were scattered, bis best men taken and shot, and he himself was penned up, and almost starved on the top of a mountain, with a cordon of soldiers around its base, and only escaped by the remissness of the guard. In three months, chased from place to place, his old haunts broken up, and hemmed in on every side, ho entered into a treaty with Cuzman, by ·which he agreed to deliver up 1,000 muskets, and disband his remaining followers. In executing the treaty, however, he delivered only 400 muskets, aud those old and worthless; and this breach of the convention was winked at by Guzman, little dreaming of the terrible fate reserved for himself at Carrera's hands. 'l'his over, Morazan deposed Rivera Paz, restored Salazar, and returned to San Salvador, first laying heavy contributions on the city to support the expense of the war, and taking with him all the soldiers of the Federal Goycrnmcnt, belying one of the party cries against him, that he was attempting to retain an influence in the city by bayonets. Guzman returned to Quezaltcnango, and the garrison consisted only of seventy mun. The contributions and the withdrawal of the troops from the city created great dissatisfaction with Morazan, and at this time the political horizon became cloudy throughout the republic. The :Marquis of Aycinona, who had been banished by Morazan, and had resided several years in the United States, studying our institutions, by a series of I BULLETIN OF CARRERA. 149 · articles which were widely circulated, purporting to illustrate our constitution and laws, hurried on the crisis; Honduras and Uosta Rica declared their indepeudence of the general government: all this came back upon Guatimala, and added fuel to the ah·eady flaming fire of dissension. On the 24th of March, 1839, Carrera issnod a bulletin from his old quarters in Matasquintla, in which, refen-ing to tho declaration of independence by the States, he says : " When those laws came to my hands, I read them, and returned to them very often; as a loving mother clasps in her arms an only son whom she believed lost, and presses him against her heart, so did I with the pamphlet that contained the declaration; for in it I found the principles that I sustain, and the reforms I desire." This was rather figurative, as Carrera could not at that time read; but it must have been quite new to him, aud a satisfaction to find out what principles he sustained. Again he threatened to enter the city. All was anarchy and distraction in the councils, and on the 12th of April his hordes appeared before the gates. All were aghast, but there was no rising to repel him. llfora7.an was beyond the reach of their voice, and they who had been loudest in denouncing him for attempting to control the city by bayonets now denounced him for leaving them to the mercy of Carrera. All who could, hid away their treasures and fled; the rest shut themselves up in their houses, barring their doors and windows: at two o'clock in the morning, routing the guard, he entered with 1,500 men. Salazar, the commandant, fled, and Carrera, riding up to the house of Rivera Paz, knocked at the door, and reinstalled him chief of the state. His soldiers took up their quarters in the barracks, and Carrera established himself as the guardian of the city; and it is due to him to say that he acknowledged his own incompetency to govern, and placed men at the disposition of the municipality to preserve the peace. The Central party was thus restored to power. Carrera's fanaticism bound him to the Church party; he was flattered by his association and connexion with the aristocracy, was made brigadier-general, and presented with a handsome uniform; and, besides empty honours, he had the city barracks and pay for his men, which was better than Indian huts and foraging expeditions; tho last, too, being a resource for pastime. The league had continued since the April preceding my arrival. The great bond of union was hatred of Morazan and the Liberals. 'l'he Centralists had their Constituent Assembly, abolished the laws made by the Liberals, revived old Spanish _ laws, and old names for the courts of justice and officers of government, and passed any laws they pleased so that they did not interfere 150 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. with him. Their gre::it difficulty w::is to keep him quiet. Un::ible to rem::iin inactive in the city, he marched tow::ird San S::ilvador, for the ostensiLle purpose of attacking Geneml Momzan. The Centralists ,vere in a state of great anxiety; Carrera's success or his defeat was alike dangerous to them. If defeated, Morazan might march directly upon the city, and take signal vengeance upon them; if successful, he might return with his barb::iria,ns so intoxicated by victory as to be utterly uncontrollable. A little circumstance shows the position of things. Carrera's mother, an old woman well known os a huckster on the plaz::i, died. Formerly it was the custom with the higher classes to bury in vaults constructed within the churches, but from the time of the cholem, all burials, without distinction, were forbidden in the churches, and even within the city, and a c::impo santo was established outside the town, in which all the principal families had vaults. Carrera signified his pleasure that his mother should be buried in the Cathedral ! The government charged itself with the funeral, issued cards of invitation, and all the principal inhabitants followed in the procession. No efforts were spared to conciliate and keep him in good temper; but he was subject to violent bursts of passion, and, it was said, had cautioned the members of the government at such moments not to attempt to argue with him, but to let him have his own way. Such was Carrera, at the time of my visit, more ::ibsolute master of Guatimala than any king in Europe of his dominions, and by the fanatic Indians called el Rijo de Dios, (the Son of God,) and nnestro Seo or, ( our Lord). When I entered the room he was sitting at a table counting sixpenny and shilling pieces. Colonel Monte Rosa, a dark Mestitzo, in a dashing uniform, was sitting by his side, and several other persons were in the room. He was about five feet six inches in height, with straight black hair, an Indian complexion and expression, without beard, and did not seem to be more than twenty-one years 0ld. He wore a black bombazet roundabout jacket and pant::iloons. He rose as we entered, pushed the money on one side of the table, and, probably out of respect to my coat, received me with courtesy, and gave me a chair at his side. My first remark was an expression of surprise at his extreme youth ; he answered that he was but twenty-three years old ; certainly he was not more than twenty-five ; and then, as a man conscious that ho was something extraordinary, and that I knew it, without waiting for any loading questions, he continued, that he had begun (he did not say what) with thirteen men armed with old muskets, which they were obliged to fire with cigars; pointed to eight places in which he had been wounded, and said that he had three balls then in his body. At this time CHARACTER OF CARRERA. 151 he could hardly be recognised as the same man who, less than two years before, had entered Guatimala with a horde of wild Indians, proclaiming death to strangers. Indeed, in no particular had he changed more than in his opinion of foreigners, a happy illustration of the effect of personal intercourse in breaking down prejudices against individuals or classes. He had become personally acquainted with several, one of whom, an English doctor, had extracted a ball from his side ; and his intercourse with all had been so satisfactory, that his feelings had undergone an entire revulsion ; and he said that they were the only people who never deceived him. Ile had done, too, what I consider extraordinary; in the intervals of his hurried life he had learned to write his name, and had thrown aside his stamp. I never had the fortune to be presented to any legitimate king, nor to any usurper of the prerogatives of royalty except Mohammed Ali. Old as he was, I gave him scme good advice; and it grieves me that the old lion is now shorn of his mane. Considering Carrera a promising young man, I told him that he had a long career before him, and might do much good to his country; and he laid his hand upon his heart, and with a burst of feeling that I did not expect, said he was determined to sacrifice his life for his country. 1Vith all his faults and his crimes, none ever accu,;ed him of duplicity, or of saying what he did not mean; and, perhaps, as many self-deceiving men have done before him, he believes himself a patriot. I considered that he was destined to exercise an important, if not a controlling inflnence on the affairs of Central America; and trusting that hopes of honourable and extended fame might have some effect upon his character, I told him that his name had already reached my country, and that I had seen in the newspapers an account of his last entry into Gnatimala, with praises of his moderntion and exertions to prevent atrocities. He expressed himself pleased that his name was known, and such mention made of him among strangers; and said he was not a robber and a murderer, as he was called by his enemies. He seemed intelligent and capable of improvement, and I told him that he ought to travel into other countries, and particularly, from its contiguity, into mine. He had a very indefinite notion as to where my country was; he knew it only as El Norte, or the North; inquired about the distance and facility for getting there, and said that when the wars were over, he would endeavour to make El Norte a visit. But he could not fix his thoughts upon anything except the wars and Morazan ; in fact, he knew of nothing else. He was boyish in his manners and manner of speaking, but very grave ; he never smiled, and conscious of power, was unostentatious in the exhibi- 152 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, tion of it, though he always spoke in the first person of what he had done and what he intended to do. One of the hangers-on, evidently to pay court to him, looked for a paper bearing his signature to show me as a specimen of his handwriting, but did not find one. My interview with him was much more interesting than I had expected ; so young, so humble in his origin, so destitute of early advantages, with honest impulses, perhaps, but ignorant, fanatic, sanguinary, and the slave of violent passions, wielding absolutely the physical force of the country, and that force entertaining a natural hatred to tho whites. At parting he accompanied me to the door, and in the presence of his villainous soldiers, made me a free offer of his services. I understood I had the good fortune to make a favourable impression; and afterward, but, unluckily during my absence, he called uvon me in full dress and in state, which for him was an unusual thing. At that time, as Don Manuel Pavon told me, he professed to consider himself a brigadier-general, subject to the orders of the government. He had no regular allowance for the maintenan('e of himself and troops; he did not like keeping accounts, and called for money when he wanted it; and, with this understanding, in eight months he had not required more than Morazan did in two. He really did not want money for himself, and as a matter of policy he paid the Indians but little. This operated powerfully with the aristocracy, upon whom the whole burden of raising money devolved. It may be a satisfaction to some of my friends to know that this lawless chief is under a dominion to which meeker men are loth to submit; his wife accompanies him on horseback in all his expeditions, influenced by a feeling which is said to proceed sometimes from excess of affection ; and I have heard that it is no unimportant part of the business of the chief of the state to settle family jars. As we were returning to my house, we met a gentleman who told Mr. Pavon that a party of soldiers was searching for a member of the Assembly who was lying under the displeasnre of Can·era, but a personal friend of theirs; and as we passed on we saw a file of soldiers drawn up before his door, while others were inside searching the house. This was done by Carrera's orders, without any knowledge on the part of the government. PARTY TO MIXCO. 153 CHAPTER XII. PARTY TO MlXCO-A SCENE OF PLEASURE-PROCESSION IN JIONOUR OF THE PATRON SAI~T OF MIXCO-FlllEWORKS - A B0'\1BARDME'ST-S)10KIKG CIGARS-A NIGHT-DRAWL- SU.l-'FE!l· ]NG AND SORROW - A COCKF.IGIIT-A WALK IN THE SUBURDS-SU!-<DAY Al'rlUSEMENTSRETU llN TO l'HE CITY, IN consequence of the convulsions and danger of the times, the city was dull, and the1;e was no gaiety in private circles; but an effort had been made by some enterprising ladies to break the monotony, and a party, to which I was invited, was formed for that afternoon to Mixco, au Indian village about three leagues distant, at which the festival of its patron saint was to be celebrated the next day with Indian l'ites. At four o'clock in the afternoon I left my door on horseback to call on Don Manuel Pavon. His house was next to that of the proscribed deputy, and a line of soldiers was drawn around the whole block, with the purpose of preventing an escape, while every house was searched. I always gave these gentlemen a wide berth when I could, but it was necessary to ride along the whole line; and as I passed the house of the deputy, with the door closed and sentinels before it, I could but think of his distressed family, in agony lest his hiding-place should be discovered. Don Manuel was waiting for mo, and we rode to the. house of one of the ladies of the party, a young widow whom I had not seen before, and who, in her riding-dress, made a fine appearance. Her horse was ready, and when she had kissed the old people good-bye, we carried her off. The women-servants, with familiarity and affection, followed to the door, and continued farewell greetings and cautions to take good care of herself, which the Jady answered as long as we were within hearing. ,v e called at two or three other houses, and then all asscmulcd at the place of rendezvous. 'fhe court-yard was full of horses, with every variety of fanciful mountings. Althongh we were going only nine miles, and to a large Indian village, it was necessary to carry beds, bedding, and provisions. A train of servants large enough to carry stores for a small military expedition was sent ahead, and we all started. Outside tho gate all the anxieties and perils which slumbered in the city were forgotten. Our road lay over an extensive plain, seeming, as the sun went down behind the volcanoes of Agua and Fnego, a beautiful 154 TRAVELS 1N CENTRAL AMERICA. bowling-green, in which our party, preceded by a long file of Indians with loads on their backs, formed a picture. I was surprised to find that the ladies were not good horsewomen. They never ri<le for pleasure, and, on account of the want of accommodation on the road, seldom tr,wel. It was after dark when we reached the borders of a deep ravine separating the plain from Mixco. \Ve descended, and, rising on the other side, emerged from the darkness of the ravine into an illuminated street, and, at two or three horses' lengths, into a plaza blazing with lights and crowded with people, nearly all Iu<lians in holiday costume. In tho centre of the plaza was a fine fountain, and at the head of it a gigantic church. \Ve rode up to the house that had been provided for the ladies, and, leaving them there, the gentlemen scattered to find lodgings for themselves. The door of every house was open, and the only question asked was whether there was room. Some of the young men did not give themselves this trouble, as they wero disposed to make a night of it; and M.r. P. and I, having secured a place, returned to the house occupied by the ladies. In one corner was a tienda about ten feet square, partitioned off and shelved, which served as a place for their hats and shawls. The rest of the room contained merely a long table and benches. In a few moments the ladies were ready, and we all sallied out for a walk. All the streets and passages were brilliantly illuminated, and across some were arches decorated with evergreens and lighted, and at the corners were altars under arbours of branches adorned with flowers. The spirit of frolic seemed to take possession of our file-leaders, who, as the humour prompted them, entered any house, and after a lively chat left it, contriving to come out just as the last of the party were going in. In one house they found a poncha rolled up very carefully, with the end of a guitar sticking out. The proprietor of the house only knew that it belonged to a young man from Guatimala, who had left it as an indication of his intention to pass the night there. One of the young men unrolled the poncha, and some loaves of bread fell out, which he distributed, and, with half a loaf in his mouth, struck up a waltz, which was followed by a quadrille; the good people of the house seemed pleased at this free use of their roof, and shaking hands all around, with many expressions of good will on both sides, we left as unceremoniously as we had entered. ,v e made the tour of all the principal streets, and as we returned to the plaza the procession was coming out of the church. The village procession in honour of its patron saint is the great pride of the Indian, and the touchstone of his religious character. VILLAGE PROCESSION. 155 Every Indian contributes his labour and money toward getting it up, and he is most honoured who is allowed the most important part in it. 'l'his was a rich village, at which all the muleteers of Guatimala lived; and nowhere had I seen an Indian procession so imposing. The church stood on an elevation at the head of the plaza, its whole fa~ade rich in omaments illuminated by the light of torches; and the largo platform and the steps were thronged with women in white. A space was cleared in the middle before the great doo1; and with a loud chant the procession passed out of the doorway. First came the alcaldo and his alguazils, all Indians, with rods of office in one hand, and lighted wax candles, six or eight feet long, in the other; then a sot of devils, not as playful as the devils of Guatimala, but more hideous, and probably better likenesses, according to the notions of the Indians; then came, home aloft by Indians, a large silver cross, richly chased and omamented, and followed by the cura, with a silken canopy held over his head on the ends of long poles borne by Indians. As the cross advanced, all fell on their knees, and a stranger would have been thought guilty of an insult upon their holy religion who omitted confo1·ming to this ceremony. 'l'hen came figures of saints larger than life, bome on the shoulders of Indians; and then a fignre of the Virgin, gorgeously dressed, her gown glittering with spangles. 'l'hon followed a long procession of Indian women dressed in costume, with a thick red cord twisted in the hair, so as to look like a turban, all carrying lighted candles. The procession passed through the illuminated streets, under tho arches, and stopping from time to time before the altars, made the tour of the village, and in about an hour, with a loud chant, ascended the steps of the church. Its re-entry was announced by a discharge of rockets, after which all gathered in the plaza for the exhibition of fireworks. It was some time before these were ready, for those who had figured in tho procession, particularly the devils, were to be the principal managers. Our party was well known in Mixco; and though the steps of the church were crowded, one of tho best places was immediately vacated for us. From their nearness to Guatimala, the people of Mixco knew all the principal families of the former place, and were glad to see so distinguished a party at their fiesta; and the familiar but respectful way in which they were everywhere treated, manifested a simplicity of manners and a kindliness of feeling between the rich and the poor, which to me was one of the most interesting paits of the whole fete. · The exhibition began with the Toros; the man who played the bull gave universal satisfaction; scattering and putting to flight the crowd 156 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, in the plaza, he rnshed up the steps of the church, and, amid langhing and screaming, went out. Flying pigeons and other pieces followed; and the whole concluded with the grand national piece of the Castle of San Felippe, which was a representation of the repulse of an English fleet. A tall structure represented the castle, and a little brig, perched on the end of a stick, like a weathercock, the fleet. The brig fired a broadside, and then, by a sudden jerk, turned on a pivot and fired another; and long after, until she had riddled herself to pieces, the castle continued pouring on all sides a magnanimous stream of fire. When all was over we returned to the posada. A cloth was spread over the long table, and in a few minutes, under the direction of the ladies, covered with the pic-nic materials brought from Guatimala. 'l'hc benches were drawn up to the table, and as many as could find seats sat down. Before supper was over there was an irruption of young men from Guatirnala, with glazed hats, ponchas, and swords, and presenting a rather disorderly appearance; but they were mostly juveniles, brothers and cousins of the ladies. With their hats on they seated themselves at the vacated tables, and, as soon as they had finished eating, hurried off the plates, piled the tables away in a corner, one on the top of the other, and the candles on the top of all, the violins struck up, and gentlemen and ladies, lighting cigars and cigarillos, commenced dancing. I am sorry to say that generally the ladies of Central America, not excepting Guatimala, smoke,-married ladies, puros, or all t(Jbacco, and unmarried, cigarillos, or tobacco wrapped in paper or straw. Every gentleman carries in his pocket a silver case, with a long string of cotton, steel and flint, taking up nearly as much space as a handkerchief, and one of the offices of gallantry is to strike a light; by doing it well, he may help to kindle a flame in a lady's heart; at all events, to do it bunglingly would be ill-bred. I will not express my sentiments on smoking as a custom for the sex. I have recollections of beauteous lips profaned. Nevertheless, even in this I have seen a lady show her prettiness and refinement, barely touching the straw to her lips, as it were kissing it gently and taking it away. When a gentleman asks a lady for a light, she always removes the cigar from her lips. Happily, the dangerous proximity which sometimes occlll'S between gentlemen in the street is not in vogue. The dancing continued till two o'clock, and the breaking up was like the separation of a gay family party. The young men dispersed to sleep or to finish the night with merriment elsewhere, and Dou Manuel and 1 retired to the house he had secured for us. We were in our hammocks, talking over the affairs of the night, when we heard a noise in the street, a loud tramping past the door A NIGH1' BRAWL. 157 · and a clash of swords. Presently Mr. P.'s servant knocked for admission, and told us that a man bad been killed a few doors off by a sword-cut across the head. Instead of going out to gratify an idle cmiosity, like prudent men we seemed the door. Tho tramping passed up the street, and presently we hoard reports of firearms. The whole place seomod to be in an uproar. W o had hardly lain down again before there was another knock at tho door. Our host, a respectable old man, with his wife, slept in a back room, and, afraid of rioters, they had a consultation about opening it. 'l'he former was unwilling to do so, but the latter, with a mother"s apprehensions, said that she was afraid some accident had ha)Jpenod to Chico. The knocking continued, and Raffael, a known companion of their son, cried out that Chico was wounded. 'l'he old man rose for a light, and, apprehending the worst, the mother and a young sister burst into tears. ~'he old man sternly checked them, said that he had always cautioned Chico against going out at night, and that ho deserved to be punished. The sister ran and opened the door, and two young men entered. We could see the glitter of their swords, and that one was supporting the other; and, just as the old man procured a light, tho wounded man fell on the ground. His face was ghastly pale, and spotted with blood; his hat cut through the crown and rim as smoothly as if done with a raior, and his right hand and arm were wound in a pocket-handkerchief, which was stained with blood. The old man looked at him with the sternness of a Roman, and told him that he knew this would be the consequence of his running out at night; the mother and sister cried, and the young man, with a feeble voice, begged his father to spare him. His companion carried him into the back room; but before they could lay him on the bed, he fell again and fainted. The father was alarmed, and when ho recovered, asked him whether he wished to confess. Chico, with a faint voice, answered, As you please. 'l'he old man told his daughter to go for the padre, but the uproar was so great in the street that she was afraid to ventnro out. In the meantime we examined his head, which, notwithstandiug the cut through his hat, was baroly touchod; and he said himself that he had received the blow on his hand, and that it was cut off. There was no physici:m nearer than Guatimala, and not a person that was able to do anything for him. I had had some practice in medicine, but none in surgery; I knew, however, that it was at all events proper to wash and cleanse tho wound, aud with the assistance of Don Manuel's servant, u young Englishman whom Don l',Ianuul had brought from the United States, luid him on a bed. This servant hud had some experience in the brawls of the country, huving ... 158 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. killed a youug man in a quarrel growing out of a love affair, and been confined to the house seven months by wounds received in the same encounter. ·with his assistance I unwound the bloody handkerchief; as I proceeded I found my courage failing me, and as, with the last coil, a dead hand fell on mine, a shudder :md a deep groan ran thl'ough the spectators, and I almost lot the hand drop. It was cut off through the back above the knuckles, and the folU' fingers hung merely by tho fleshy part of the thumb. The skin was drawn back, and showed on each side four bones protruding like the teeth of a skeleton. I j oined them together, and as he drew up his arm, they jarred like the grating of teeth. I saw that the case was beyond my art. Possibly tho hand might have been restored by sewing the skin together; but I believed that the only thing to be done, was to cut it off entirely, and this I was not willing to do. Unable to give any further assistance, I wound it up again in the handkerchief. The young man had a mild and pleasing countenance; and as thankful for my ineffectual attempt as if I had really served him, told me not to give myself any more trouble, but retlll'n to bed; his mother and sister, with stifled sobs, hung over his head; his father retained tho sternness of his manner, but it was easy to see that his heart was bleeding; and to me, a stranger, it was horrible to see a fine young man mutilated for life in a street-brawl. As he told the story himself, he was walking with some of his friends, when he met one of the Espinozas from Guatimala, also with party of friends. The latter, who was known as a bully, approached them with an expression in Spanish about equivalent to the English one, "I'll give it to you." Chico answered, "No you won't," and immediately they drew their swords. Chico, in attempting to ward off a stroke, received it on the edge of his right hand. In passing through all the bones, its force was so much broken that it only cut the crown and rim of his hat. Tho loss of his hand had no doubt saved his life; for, if the whole force of the stroke had fallen on his head, it must have killed him; but the unfortunate young man, instead of being thankful for his escape, swore vengeance against Espinoza. The latter, as I afterwards loamed, swore that the next time Chico should not escape with the loss of his hand; and, in all probability, when they meet again one of them will be killed. All this time the uproar continued, shifting its location, with occasional reports of firearms; an aunt was wringing her hands because her son was out, and we had reason to fear a tragical night. We went to bed, but for a long time the noise in the street, the groans of poor Chico, and the sobbing of his mother and sister, kept us from sleeping. I I I I f I COCK-FIGII'l'ING. 159 We did not wake till nearly ten o'clock. It was Sunday; the morning was bright and beautiful, the arches and flowers still adorned the streets, and the Indians, in their clean clothes, were going to Sunday mass. None except the immediate parties knew or cared for the events of the night. Crossing the plaza, we met a tall, clashing fellow on horseback, with a long sword by his side, who bowed to l\Ir. Pavon, and rode on past the house of Chico. 'l'his was Espinoza. No one attempted to molest him, and no notice whatever was taken of the circumstance by the authorities. The door of the church was so crowded that we could n<Jt enter; and passing through the curate's house, we stood in a doorw,iy on one side of the altar. 'l'he curate, in his richest vestments, with young Indian assistants in sacerdotal dresses, their loug black hair and sluggish features contrasting strangely with their garb and occupations, was officiating at the altar. On the front steps, with their black mantas drawn over their heads, and their eyes bent on the ground, were the dancers of our party the preceding night; kneeling along the whole floor of the immense chm·ch was a dense mass of Indian women, with red head-dresses; and leaning against the pillars, and chamarros. standing up in the background, were Indians wrapped in black ,v e waited till mass was over, and then accompanied the ladies to the.house and breakfasted. Sunday though it was, the occupations for the clay were a cockfight in the morning aucl bullfight in the afternoon. Our party was increased by the arrival of a distinguished family from Guatimala, and we all set out for the former. It was in the yard of an unoccupied house, which was already crowded; and I noticed, to the honour of the Indians and the shame of the better classes, that they were all l\Iestitzoes or white men, and, always excepting Carrera's soldiers, I never saw a worse looking or more assassinlike set of men. All along the walls of the yard were cocks tied by one leg, and men rnnning about with other cocks under their arms, putting them on the ground to compare size and weig-ht, regulating bets, and trying to cheat each other. At length a match was made; the ladies of our party had seats in the corridor of the house, and a space was cleared before them. 'l'hc gaffs were murderous instruments, more than two inches long, thick, and sharp as needles, and the birds were hardly on the ground before the feathers of the neck were ruffled and they flew at each other. In less time than had been taken to gaff them, one was lying on the ground with its tongue hanging out, and the blood running from its mouth, dead. The eagerness and vehemence, noise and uproar, wrangling, betting, swearing, 160 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. aud scuffijng of the crowd, exhibited a dark picture of human nature and a sanguinary people. I owe it to the ladies to say, tlmt in the city they 1iever arc present at such scenes. Here they went for no other reason that I could see than because they were away from home, and it was part of the f~te. w·e must make allowances for an education and state of society every way different from our own. They were not wanting in sensibility or refinement; and though they did not turn away with disgust, they seemed to take no interest in the fight, and were not disposed to wait for a second. Leaving the disgusting scene, we walked around the suburbs, one point of which commands a noble view of tbe plain and city of Guatimala, with the surrounding mountains, and suggests a wonder, that, amid objects so grand and glorious, men can grow up with tastes so grovelling. Crossing the plaza, we heard music in a large house belonging to a rich muleteer; and, entering, we found a young harpist, and two mendicant friars, with shaved crowns, dressed in white, with long white mantles and hoods, of an order newly revived in Guatimala, and drinking agua ardieute. Mantas and hats were thrown off, tables aud scats placed a,,aainst the wall, and in a few moments my friends were waltzing. 'l'his over, the young men brought out the ladies' mantas, and again we sallied for a walk; but, reaching the plaza, the young men changed their minds, and seating the ladies, to whom I attached myself, in the shade, commenced prisoner's base. All who passed stopped, and the villagers seemed delighted with the gaiety of our party. 'l'he players tumbled each other in the dust, to the great amusement of the lookers-- on; and this continued till we saw trays coming across the plaza, which was a sign of dinner. This over, and thinking that I bad seen enough for one Sunday, I determined to ~orego the bullfight; and in company with Don Manuel and another prominent member of the Assembly, aud his family, I set out on my return to the city. Their mode of travelling was primitive. All were on horseback, he himself with a little son behind him; his daughter alone; his wife on a pillion, with a sormnt to support her; a servant-maid with a child in her arms, and a servant on the top of the luggage. It was a beautiful afternoon, and the plain of Gnatimala, with its green grass and dark mountains, was a lovely scene. As we entered tho city we encountered a religious procession, with priests and monks all bearing lighted candles, and preceded by men throwing rockets. We avoided the plaza on account of the soldiers, and in a few minutes I was in my house, alone. EXCURSION TO LA ANTIGUA, 161 CHAPTER XIII. EXCURSION 'TO LA ANTIGUA AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN-SAN LUCAS-MOUNTAIN SCENERYEL RIO PENSATIVO-LA ANTIGUA-ACCOUNT OP ITS DESTRUCTION-AN OCTOGENARIAN-THE CATHEDRAL-SAN JUAN OBISPO-SANTA MARIA-VOLCANO DE AGUA-ASCENT 0.F THE MOUNTAIN-TUE CRATER-A LO}'TY MEE1"JNG-i'LACE-'JllE DESCENT-RE1'UUN TO LA ANTIGUA -CULTIVATION OF COCHINEAL-C'LASSIC G-HOUND--CIUDAD VlEJA-ITS .FOONDA'flON-VISl1' FROM INDIANS-DEPARTURE PROM ClUDAD VJEJA-FIRST SlGHT OF THE PACIFIC-ALOTENANGO-VOLCAN JlEL FUEGO-ESCUlNTLA-SUNSET SCENE-l\.lASAGUA-PORT 0.F l.S'.I'APAARRIVAL AT THE PACIFIC'. ON Tuesday, the 17th of December, I set out on an excursion to La Antigua Guatimnla and the Pacific Ocean. I was accompanied by a young man who lived opposite, and wished to ascend the Volcano de Agua. I had discharged Augustin, and with great difficulty procured a man who knew the route. Rumaldo had but one fault--he was married: like some other married men, he had a fancy" for roving; but his wife set her face against this propensity; she said that I was going to El Mar, the sea, and might carry him off, and she should never see him again, and the affectionate woman wept at the bare idea; but upon my paying the money into her hands before going, she consented. My only luggage was a hammock and pair of sheets, which Rumaldo carried on his mule, and each had a pair of alfo1jas, or saddle-bags. At the gate we met Don Jose Vidaurre, whom I had first seen in the president's chair of the Constituent Arnembly, and was going to visit his hacienda at the Antigua. Though it was only a journey of five or six hours, Senor Vidaurre, being a very heavy man, had two led horses, one of which he insisted on my mounting; and when I expressed my admiration of the animal, he told me, in the usual phrase of Spanish courtesy, that the horse was mine. It was done in the same spirit in which a Frenchman, who had been entertained hospitably in a country house in England, offered himself to seven of the daughters, merely for the compliment; and my worthy friend would have been very much astonished if I had accepted his offer. The road to Mixco I have already described. In the village I stopped to see Chico. His hand had been cut off, and he was doing well. Leaving the village, we ascended a steep mountain, from the top of which we had a fine view of the village at its foot, the plain and city of Guatimala, and the Lake of Amatitan, enclosed by a belt of mountains. Descending by a wild and rugged road, we reached a M 162 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. plain, and saw on the left the village of San Lucas, and on the right, at some distance, San Mateo. We then entered a piece of woodland, and first ascending, then again descended by the precipitous side of a mountain, with a magnificent ravine on our right, to a beautiful stream. At this place mountains rose all around us ; but the banks of the stream were covered with delicate flowers, and parrots with gay plumage were pe"rched on the trees and flying over our heads, making, in the midst of gigantic scenery, a fairy spot. The stream passed between two ranges of mountains so close together that there was barely room for a single horsepath by its side. As we continued, the mountains turned to the left, and on the other side of the stream were a few openings, cultivated with cochineal, into the very hollow of the base. Again the road turned, and then ran straight, making a vista of more than a mile between the mountains, at the end of which was the Antigua, standing in a delightful valley, shut in by mountains and hills that always retain their verdure, watered by two rivers that supply numerous fountains, with a climate in which heat or cold never predominates; yet this city, surrounded by more natural beauty than any site I ever saw, has perhaps undergone more calamities than any city that was ever built. vVe passed the gate, and rode through the suburbs, in the opening of the valley, on one side of which was a new house, that reminded me of an Italian villa, with a large cochineal plantation extending to the base of the mountain. We crossed a stream bearing the poetical name of El Rio Pensativo; on the other side was a fine fountain, and at the corner of the street was the ruined church of San Domingo, a monument of the dreadful earthquakes which had prostrated the old capital, and driven the inhabitants from their homes. On each side were the ruins of churches, convents, and private residences, large and costly, some lying in masses, some with fronts still standing, richly ornamented with stucco, cracked and yawning, roofless, without doors or windows, and trees growing inside above the walls. Many of tbe houses have been repaired, the city is repeopled, [Ind presents a strange appearance of ruin and recovery. The inhabitants, like the dwellers over the buried Herculaneum, seemed to entertain no fears of renewed disaster. I rode up to the house of Don Miguel Manriqne, which was occupied by his family at the time of the destruction of the city, and, after receiving a kind welcome, in company with Seiior Vidaurre walked to the plaza. The great volcanoes of Agua and Fuego look down upon it; in the centre is a noble stone fountain, and the buildings which face it, especially the palace of the captaiugeneral, displaying on its front the armorial bearings granted by the 33A. ANTIGUA OUATIMALA. DESTRUCTION OF LA ANTIGUA. 163 Emperor Charles the Fifth to the loyal and noble city, and surmounted by the Apostle St. James on horseback, armed, and brandishing a sword; and the majestic but roofless and ruined cathedral, 300 feet long, 120 broad, nearly 70 high, and lighted by 50 windows, show at this day that La Antigua was once one of the finest cities of the New World, deserving the proud name which Alvarado gave it, the city of the Knights of St. James. This was the second capital of Guatimala, founded in 1542 on account of the dest1uction of the first by a water volcano. Its history is one of uninterrupted disasters. "In 1558 an epidemic disorder, attended with a violent bleeding at the nose, swept away great numbers of people ; nor could the faculty devise any method to arrest the progress of tho distemper. Many severe shocks of earthquake were felt at different periods; the one in 1565 seriously damaged many of the principal buildings; those of 157 5, 7 6, and 77 were not less ruinous. On the 27th of December, 1581, the population was again alarmed by the volcano, which began to emit fire; and so great was the quantity of ashes thrown out and spread in the air, that the sun was entirely obscured, and artificial light was necessary in the city at mid-day." "The years 1585 and 1586 were dreadful in the extreme. On January 16th of the former, earthquakes were felt, and they continued through that and the following year so frequently, that not an interval of eight days elapsed during the whole period without a shock more or less violent. Fire issued incessantly, for months together, from the mountain, and greatly increased the general consternation. The greatest damage of this series took place on the 23d of December, 1586, when the major part of the city again became a heap of ruins, burying under them many of the unfortunate inhabitants ; the earth shook with such violence that the tops of the high ridges were torn off, and deep chasms formed in various parts of the level ground. "In lGOl a pestilential distemper carried off great numbers. It raged with so much malignity that three days generally terminated the existence of such as were affected by it." "On the 18th of February, 1651, about one o'clock in the afternoon, a most extraordinary subterranean noise was- heard, followed immediately by three violent shocks, at very short intervals from each other, which threw down many buildings and damaged others ; the tiles from the roofs of the houses were dispersed in all directions, like light straws by a gust of wind; the bells of the churches were rung by the vibrations; masses of rock were detached from the mounto.ins; and even the wild beasts were so terrified, that, losing their natmal instinct, 11 2 164 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. they quitted their retreats, and sought shelter in the habitations of men." "The year 1686 brought with it another dreadful epidemic, which in three months swept away a tenth part of the inhabitants." ... "From the capital the pestilence spread to the neighbouring villages, and thence to the more remote ones, causing dreadful havoc, particularly among the most robust of the inhabitants." " The year 1717 was memorable; on the night of August 27th the mountain began to emit flames, attended by a continued subterranean rumbling noise. On the night of the 28th the eruption increased to great violence, and very much alarmed the inhabitants. The images of saints were carried in procession, public prayers were put up, day after day; but the ten-ifying eruption still continued, and was followed by frequent shocks, at intervals, for more than four months. At last, on the night of September 29th, the fate of Guatimala appeared to be decided, and inevitable destruction seemed to-be at hand. Great was the ruin among the public edifices; many of the houses were thrown down, and nearly all that remained were dreadfully injured; but the greatest devastation was seen in the churches." "The year 1773 was the most melancholy epoch in the annals of this metropolis ; it was then destroyed, and, as the capital, rose no more from its ruins." .... "About four o'clock, on the aftemoon of July 29, a tremendous vibration was felt, and shortly after began the dreadful convulsion that decided the fate of the unfortunate city." ... "Ou the 7th September there was another, which threw down most of the buildings that were damaged on the 29th of July; and on the 13th December, one still more violent terminated the work of destruction." .... "The people had not well recovered from the consternation inflicted by the events of the fatal 29th of July, when a meeting was convoked for the purpose of collecting the sense of the inhabitants on the subject of removal." ... "At this meeting it was determined that all the public authorities should remove provisionally to the little village of La Hermita, until the valleys of Jalapa and Las Vacas could be sm·veyed, and until the king's pleasure could be ascertained on the subject." ... "On the 6th of September the governor and all the tribunals withdrew to La Hermita; the surveys of the last-mentioned places being completed, the inhabitants were again convoked, to decide upon the transfer. This congress was held in the temporary capital, and lasted from the 12th to the 16th of January, 1774.: the report of the commissioners was read, and, by a plurality of votes, it was resolved to make a formal translation of the city of Guatimala to the Valley of Las Vacas. The king gave his assent to this resolution on the 21st of July, 1775; and, AN OCTOGENARIAN. 165 by a decree of the 21st September following, approved most of the plans that were proposed for carrying the determination into effect; granting very liberally the whole revenue arising from the customs, for the space of ten yc,irs, toward the charges of building, &c. In virtue of this decree, the ayuntamiento was in due form established in the new situation on the 1st of January, 1776; and on the 29th of July, 1777, a proclamation was issued in Old Guatimala, commanding the population to remove to the new city within one year, and totally abandon the remains of the old one." Such is the account given by the historian of Guatimala concerning the destruction of this city; besides which, I saw on the spot Padre Antonio Croquer, an octogenarian, and the oldest canouigo in Guatimala, who was living in the city during the earthquake which completed its destruction. He was still vigorous in frame and intellect, wrote his name with a free hand in my mcmorauclnm-book, and had vivid recollections of the splendour of the city in his boyhood, when, as he said, carriages rolled through it as in the streets of :Madrid. On the fatal clay he was in the Church of San Francisco with two padres, one of whom, at the moment of the shock, took him by the hand and hurried him into the patio; the other was buried under the ruins of the church. He remembered that the tiles flew from the roofs of tho houses in every direction; the clouds of dust were suffocating, and the people ran to the fountains to quench their thirst. The fountains were broken, and one man snatched off his bat to dip for water. 'l'he archbishop slept that night in his carriage in the plaza. He described to mo tho ruins of individual buildings, the dead which were dug from under them, and the confusion and terror of the iuhabi tan ts ; and though his recollections were only those of a boy, he had material enough for hours of conversation. In company with the cura we visited the interior of the cathedral. The gigantic walls were standing, but roofless; the interior was occupied as a burying-ground, and the graves were shaded by a forest of dahlias and trees 70 or 80 feet high, rising above tho walls. The grand altar stood under a cupola supported by 16 columns faced with tortoiseshell, and adorned with bronze medallions of exquisite workmanship. On the cornice were once placed statues of tho Virgin and the twelve apostles, in ivory; but all these are gone; and more interesting than the recollections of its ancient splendour or its mournful ruins, was the empty vault where once reposed the ashes of Alvarado the Conqueror. 'l'oward evening my young companion joined me, and we set out for Santa Maria, an Indian village at two leagues' distance, situated on the 166 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. side of the Volcano de Agua, with the intention of ascending the next day to the summit. As we entered the valley, the scene was so beautiful I did not wonder that even earthquakes could not make it desolate. At the distance of a league we reached the village San Juan del Obispo, the church and convent of which are conspicuous from below, and command a magnificent view of the valley and city of the Antigua. At dark we reached the village of Santa Maria, perched at a height of 2,000 feet above the Antigua, and 7,000 feet above the level of the Pacific. The church stands in a noble court with several gates, and before it is a gigantic white cross. W o rode up to the convent, which is under the care of the cura of San Juan del Obispo, but it was unoccupied, aud there was no one to receive us except a little talkative old man, who had only anived that morning. Very soon there was an ,, inuption of Indians, with the alcalde and his alguazils, who came to offer their services as guides up the mountain. They were the first Indians I had met who did not speak Spanish, and their eagerness and clamour reminded me of my old friends the Arabs. They represented the ascent as very steep, with dangerous precipices, and the path extremely difficult to find, and said it was necessary for each of us to have sixteen men with ropes to haul us up, and to pay twelve dollars for each man. They seemed a little astonished when I told them that we wanted two men each, and would give them half a dollar apiece, but fell immediately to eight men for each, and a dollar apiece ; and, after a noisy wrangling, we picked out six from forty, and they all retired. In a few minutes we heard a violin out of doors, which we thought was in honour of us; but it was for the little old man, who was a titiritero or puppet-player, and intended giving an exhibition that night. The music entered the room, and a man stationed himself at the door to admit visitors. The price of admission was three halfpence, and there were frequent wranglings to have one halfpenny taken off, or two admitted for three halfpence. The high price preventing the entrance of common people, the company was very select, and all sat on the floor. The receipts, as I learned from the doorkeeper, were upward of 2s. 6d. Rumaldo, who was a skilful amateur, led the orchestra, that is, the other fiddler. The puppet was in an adjoining room, and when the qoor opened disclosed a black chamarro hanging as a curtain, the rising of which discovered the puppet-plrl,yer sitting at a table with his little figures before him. The sports of the puppets were carried on with ventriloquial conversations, in the midst of which I fell asleep. "\Ve did not get off till seven o'clock the next morning. The day was very unpromising, and the whole mountain was covered with clouds. As yet the side of the volcano was cultivated. In half an hour the I ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN-THE CRATER, 167 road became so steep and slippery that we dismounted, and commenced the ascent on foot. , The Indians went on before, carrying water and pro,isions, and each of us was equipped with a strong staff. At a quarter before eight we entered the middle region, which is covered with a broad belt of thick forest; the path was steep and muddy, and every tlu·ee and four minutes we were obliged to stop and rest. At a quarter before nine we reached a clearing, in which stood a large wooden cross. This was the first resting-place, and we sat down at the foot of the cross and lunched. A drizzling rain had commenced, but, in the hope of a change, at half-past nine we resumed om· ascent. 'rho path became steeper and muddier, the trees so thickly crowded together that the sun never found its way through them, and their branches and trunks covered with green excrescences. The path was made and kept open by Indians, who go up in the winter-time to procure snow and ice for Gnatimala. The labour of toiling up this muddy acclivity was excessive, and very soon my young companion became fatigued, and was unable to continue without help. The Indians were provided with ropes, one of which was tied around his waist, and two Indians went before with the rope over their shoulders. At half-past ten we were above the region of forest, and came out upon the open side of the volcano. There were still scattering trees, long grass, and a great variety of cmious plants and flowers, furnishing rich materials for the botanist. Among them was a tree, growing to the height of 40 to 50 feet, bearing a red flower, called the 1nano del mico, or hand-flower, but more like a monkey's paw, the inside a light vermillion colour, and the outside vermillion with stripes of yellow. :My companion, tired with the toil of ascending, even with the aid of the rope, at length mounted an Indian's shoulders. I was obliged to stop every two or three minutes, and my rests were about eqnal to the actual time of walking. The great difficulty was on account of the wet and mud, which, in ascending, made us lose part of every step. It was so slippery that, even with the staff, and the assistance of branches of trees and bushes, it was difficult to keep from falling. About half an hour before reaching the top, and, perhaps, 1,000 or 1,500 feet from it, the trees became scarce, and seemed blasted by lightning or withered by cold. The clouds gathered thicker than before, and I lost all hope of a clear clay. At half an hour before twelve we reached the top, and descended into the crater. A whirlwind of cloud and vapour was sweeping around it. We were in a perspiration; our clothes were saturated with rain and mud; and in a few moments the cold penetrated our very bones. \Ve attempted to build a fire, but the sticks and leaves were wet, 1tnd would not 168 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, burn. For a few moments we raised a feeble flame, and all crouched around it; but a sprinkling of rain came down, just enough to put it out. We could see nothing, and the shivering Indians begged me to return. On rocks near us were inscriptions, one of which bore date in 1548; and on a stone were cut the words, Alexandro Ldvert, De San Peter.sbrgo; Edvardo Legh Page, De l nglaterra i Jose Croskey, De Fylrzdelfye, Dibymos aqui unas Boteas De Champana, e1 dia 26 de Agosto de 1S34. It seemed strange that three men from such distant and different parts of the world, St. Petersburgh, England and Philadelphia, bad met to drink Champagne on the top of this volcano. While I was blowing my fingers and copying the inscription, tbe vapour cleared away a little, and gave me a view of the interior of the crater. It was a large oval basin, the area level and covered with grass. The sides were sloping, about 100 or 150 feet high, and all around were masses of rock piled up in magnificent confusion, and rising to inaccessible peaks. There is no tradition of this mountain having ever emitted fire, and there is no calcined matter or other mark of volcanic eruption anywhere in its vicinity. The historical account is, that in 1541 an immense totTent, not of fire, but of water and stones, was vomited from the crater, by which the old city was destroyed. Father Remesal relates that on this occasion the crown of the mountain fell down. The height of this detached part was one THE DESCENT. 169 league, and from the remaining summit to the plain was a distance of three leagues, which he affirms he measured in 1615. 'l'he area, by my measurement, is 83 paces long aud 60 wide. According to Torquemada (and such is the tradition according to Padre Alcantara, of Ciudad Vieja), this immense basin, probably the crat-ar of an extinct volcano, with sides much higher than they are now, became filled with water by accumulations of snow and rain. There never was any eruption of water, but one of the sides gave way, and the immense body of fluid rushed out with horrific force, carrying with it rocks and trees, inundating and destroying all that opposed its progress. The immense barranca or ravine by which it descended, was still fearfully visible on the side of the mountain. The height of this mountain has been ascertained by barometrical observation to be 14,450 feet above the level of the sea. The edge of the crater commands a beautiful view of the old city of Guatimala, 32 surrounding villages, and the Pacific Ocean; at least so I am told, but I saw nothing of it. Nevertheless, I did not regret my labour; and though drenched with rain and plastered with mud, I promised myself in the month of February, when the weather is fine, to ascend again, prepared for the purpose, and pass two or three days in the crater:'· At one o'clock we began our descent. It was rapid, and sometimes dangerous, from the excessive steepness and slipperiness, and the chance of pitching head foremost against the trunk of a tree. At two o'clock we reached the cross; and I mention, as a hint for others, that, from the pressure of heavy water-proof boots upon the toes, I was obliged to stop frequently; and, after changing the pressure by descending sidewise and backward, catching at the branches of trees, I was obliged to pull off my boots and go down barefooted, ankle deep in mud. My feet were severely bruised by the stones, and I could hardly walk at all, when I met one of the Indians pulling my horse up the mountain to meet me. At four o'clock we reached Santa Maria, at five the Antigua, and at a quarter past I was in bed. 'l'he next morniug I was still asleep when Senor Vidaurre rode into the courtyard to escort me on my journey. Leaving Rumaldo to follow, I was soon mounted; and emerging from the city, we entered the open plain, shut in by mountains, and cultivated to their base with cochineal. At about a mile's distance we tmned in to the hacienda of Senor Vidaurre. In the yard were four oxen grinding * I ascended this volcano, shortly after Mr. Stephens, during perfectly clear weather, and beheld from its summit one of the most extensh'e and beautiful views I ever beheld, reminding me much of the view from the top of Mount Etna. The thermometer fell from 740 to 34° in less than ten minutes.-F. C, 170 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. sugar-cane, and behind was his nopal, or cochineal plantation, one of the largest in the Antigua. The plant is a species of cactus, set out in rows like Indian corn, and, at the time I speak of, it was about four feet high. On every leaf was pinned with a thorn a piece of cane, in the hollow of which were 30 or 40 insects. These insects cannot move, but breed, and the young crawl out and fasten upon the leaf; when they have once fixed they never move; a light film gathers over them, and as they feed the leaves become mildewed and white. At the encl of the dry season some of the leaves are cut off and hung up in a storehouse for seed, the insects are brushed off from the rest and dried in ovens, and are then sent abroad to mi1iister to the luxuries and elegances of civilized life, and enliven with their bright colours the salons of London, Paris, and St. Louis in Missouri. 'l'he crop is valuable, but uncertain, as an early rain may destroy it; and sometimes all the workmen of a hacienda are taken away for soldiers at the moment when they are most needed for its culture. The situation was ravishingly beautiful, at the base and under the shade of the Volcano de Agua, and the view was bounded on all sides by mountains of perpetual green; the morning air was soft and balmy, but pure and refreshing. With good government and laws, and one's friends around, I never saw a more beautiful spot on which man could desire to pass his allotted time on earth. Resuming our ride, we came out upon a rich plain covered wit,h grass, on which cattle and horses were pasturing, between the bases of the two great volcanoes; and on the left, at a distance, on the side of the Volcano de Agua, saw the Church of Ciudad Vieja, the first capital of Guatimala, founded by Alvarado the Conqueror. I was now on classic ground. The fame of Cortez and his exploits in Mexico spread among the Indian tribes to the south, and the Kachiquel kings sent an embassy offering to acknowledge themselves vassals of Spain. Cortez received the ambassadors with distinction, and sent Pedro de Alvarado, an officer distinguished in the conquest of New Spain, to receive the submission of the native kings, and take possession of Guatimala. On the 13th of November, 1523, Alvarado left the city of Mexico with 300 Spaniards, and a large body of Tlascaltecas, Cholotecas, Chinapas, and other auxiliary Mexican Indians, fought his way through the populous provinces of Soconusco and Tonala, and on the 14th of May, by a decisive victory over the Quiche Indians, he arrived at the capital of the Kachiquel kingdom, now known as the village of Tecpan Guatimala. After remaining a few days to recover from their fatigues, the conquering army continued their route by the villages on the coast, overcoming all that disputed their progress; and CIUDAD VIEJA. 171 on the 24th of July, 1524, arrived at a place called by the Indians Almolonga, meaning, in their language, a spring of water (or the mountain from which water flows), situated at the base of t.hc Volcano de Agua. The situation, says Remesal, pleased them so much by its fine climate, the beauty of the meadows, delightfully watered by running streams, and particularly from its lying between two lofty mountains, from one of which descended runs of water in every direction, and from the summit of the other issued volumes of smoke and fire, that they determined to build a city which should be the capital of Guatimala. On the 25th of July, the festival of St. James, the patron of Spain, the soldiers, with martial music, splendid armour, waving plumes, horses superbly caparisoned in trappings glittering with jewels and plates of gold, proceeded to the humble church which had been constructed for that purpose, where J nan Godines, the chaplain to the army, said mass. The whole body invoked the protection of the apostle, and called by his name the city they had founded. On the same day Alvarado appointed alcaldes, regidors, and the chief alguazil. The appearance of the country harmonized with the romantic scenes of which it had been the theatre; and as I rode over the plain I could almost imagine the sides of the mountains covered with Indians, and Alvarado and his small band of daring Spaniards, soldiers and priests, with martial pride and religious humility, unfurling the banners of Spain and setting up the standard of the cross. As we approached the town its situation appeared more beautiful; but very early in its history dreadful calamities befell it. "In 1532 the vicinity of the city was ravaged, and the inhabitants thrown into consternation by a lion of uncommon magnitude and ferocity, that descended from the forests on the mountain called the Volcan de Agua, and committed great devastation among the herds of cattle. A reward of 25 gold dollars, or 100 bushels of wheat, was offered by the town council to any person that could kill it ; but the animal escaped, even from a general hunting-party of the whole city, with Alvarado at the head of it. After five or six months' continual depredations, it was killed on the 13th of July by a herdsman, who received the promised reward. The next great disaster was a fire that happened in February 1536, and caused great injury; as the houses were at that time nearly all thatched with straw, a large portion of them was dcstl'oyed before it could be extinguished. The accident originated in a blacksmith's shop; and to prevent similar misfortunes in future, the council prohibited the employment of forges within the city. , 172 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. "The most dreadful calamity that had as yet affiicted this unfortunate place occurred on the morning of September 11, 1541. It had rained incessantly, and with great violence, on the three preceding days, particularly on the night of the 10th, when the water descended more like the torrent of a cataract than rain; the fnry of the wind, the incessant appalling lightning, and the dreadful thunder, were indescribable." ... "At two o'clock on the morning of the 11th, the vibrations of the earth were so violent that the people were unable· to stand; the shocks were accompanied by a terrible subteiTanean noise, which spread universal dismay; shortly afterward, an immense torrent of water rushed down from the summit of the mountain, forcing away with it enormous fragments of rocks and large trees, which, descending upon the ill-fated town, overwhelmed and destroyed almost all the houses, and buried a great number of the inhabitants under the ruins; among the many, Dona Beatrice de la Cueba, the widow of Pedro Alvarado, lost her life." All the way down the side of the volcano we saw the seams and gullies made by the torrents of water which had inundated the city. Again we grossed the beautiful stream of El Rio Pensativo, and rode up to the' convent. It stands adjoining the gigantic and venerable church of the Virgin. In front was a high stone wall; a large gate opened into a courtyard, at the extremity and along the side of which were the spacious corridors of the convent, and on the left the gigantic wall of the church, with a door of entry from one end of the corridor. The patio was sunk about four feet below the level of the corridor, and divided into parterres, with beds of flowers, and in the centre was a large white circular fountain, with goldfish swimming in it, and rising out of it, above a jet d'cau, an t:1ngel with a trumpet and flag. Senor Vidaur:re had informed Padre Alcantara of my intended visit, and he was waiting to receive us. He was about thirty-three years of age, intelligent, educated, and energetic, with a passion for flowers, as was shown by the beautiful arrangements of the courtyard. He had been banished by l\Iorazan, aud only retnrned to his curacy about a year before. On a visit to him was his friend and neighbour Don Pepe Asteguieta, proprietor of a cochineal hacienda, and a man of the . same stamp and character. They wore among the few whom I met who took any interest in tho romantic events connected with the early history of the country. After a brief rest in the convent, with a feeling more highly wrought than any that had been awakened in me except by the ruins of Copan, we visited a tree standing before the church, and extending wide its branches, under whose shade, tradition VISIT FRO~l INDIANS. 173 says, Alvarado and his soldiers first encamped; the fountain of Almolonga, or, in the Indian language, the mountain from which water flows, which first induced him to select this spot as the site for the capital; and the ruined cathedral, on the spot where Juan Godines first said mass. The fountain is a large natural basin of clear and beautiful water, shaded by trees, under which thirty or forty Indian women were washing. The walls of the cathedral were standing, and ·in one corner was a chamber filled with the skulls and bones of those destroyed by the inundation from the volcano. After breakfast we visited the church, which was very large, and more than 200 years old; its altar is rich in ornaments of gold and silver, among which is a magnificent crown of gold, studded with diamonds and emeralds, presented by one of the Philips to the Virgin, to whom the church was consecrated. Returning to the house, I founcl that Padre Alcantara had prepared for me a visit from a deputation of Indians, consisting of the principal chiefs and women, descendants of caciques of the Mexican auxiliaries of Alvarado, calling themselves, liko the Spaniards, Conquistadores, or Conquerors; they entorod, wearing tho same costumes which their ancestors had worn in the timo of Cortez, and bearing on a salver covered wilh velvet a precious book bound in reel velvet, with silver corners and clasp, containing the written evidence of their rank and rights. It was written on parchment, elated in 1639, and contained the order of Philip the First, acknowledging them as conquerors, and exempting them, as such, from the tribute paid by the native Indians. This exemption continued until the revolution of 1825, and oven yet they call themselves descendants of the conquerors, and the head of the Indian aristocracy. Tho interest which I felt in these memorials of tho conquerors was increased in no small degree by the beauty and comfort of the convent, and Padre Alcautara's kindness. In the afternoon, we walked down to the bridge across tho Rio Peusativo. The plain on which the Spanish soldiers had glittered in armour was shaded by the high volcanoes, and Lhe spirit of romance rested upon it. The day which I passed at the "old city" is one of those upon which I look back with pleasure. Senor Vidam-ro and Don Pepe remained with us all day. Afterward, when Padre Alcantara had again been obliged to fly from tho convent at the approach of an invading army, and we had all passed through the crash of the revolution, on leaving Guatimala to reimll home, I diverged from my road to pay them a visit, and they were the lust friends to whom I said farewell. In the morning, with great regret, I left Ciudad Vieja. Padro Alcantara and Don Pepe accompanied me, and to help me on my 174 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. journey, the latter lent me a noble mule, and the padre an excellent servant. The exit from this mountain-girt valley was between the two great volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, rising on each side nearly 15,000 feet high; and from between the two, so unexpectedly to me as almost to induce a burst of enthusiasm, we overlooked an immense plain, and saw the Pacific Ocean. At a league's distance we reached the village of Alotenango, where, among Indian huts, stood another gigantic church, roofless, and ruined by an earthquake, and where, with the hope, in which I was not disappointed, of seeing them again, I took leave of the cura and Don Pepe. The road between the two great volcanoes was singularly interesting; one with its base cultivated, girt by a belt of thick forests, and verdant to the very summit; the other with three bare and rugged peaks, covered with dried lava and ashes, shaken by the strife of the elements within, the working of internal fires, and emitting constantly a pale blue smoke. The road bears marks of the violent convulsions to which it has been subject. In one place the horse-path lies through an immense chasm, rent asunder by a natural convulsion, over which huge stones, hurled in every direction, lay in the wildest confusion; in another it crosses a deep bed of ashes, and cinders, and scorified lava ; and a little farther on, strata of decomposed vegetable matter cover the volcanic substances, and high shrubs and bushes have grown up, forming a thick shady arbour, fragrant as the fields of Araby the Blessed. At every step there was a strange contrast of the horrible and beautiful. The last eruption of the Volcan del Fuego took place about twelve years ago, when flames issued from the crater and ascended to a great height; immense quantities of stones and ashes were cast out, and the race of monkeys inhabiting the neighbouring woods was almost extirpated ; but it can never burst forth again; its crater is no longer la Boca del Iufierno, or the Mouth of the Infernal Regions, for, as a very respectable individual told me, it has beeu blessed by a priest. After a beautiful ride under a hot sun, but shaded nen.rly all the way, at three o'clock we reached Escuintla, where was another magnificent church, roofless, and again with its rich fai;ade cracked by an earthquake. Before it were two venerable Ceiba trees, and the platform commanded a splendid panoramic view of the volcanoes and mountains of the Antigua. In the streets were soldiers and drunken Indians. I rode to the house of the corregidor, Don Juan Dios de Guerra, and, with Rumaldo for a guide, I walked down to the banks of a beautiful stream, which makes Escuintla, in the summer months of January and February, the great watering-place of Guatimala. The bank was high and beautifully DEPARTURE FOR THE PACIFIC. 175 shaded, and, descending to the river through a narrow passage between perpemlicnlar rocks, in a romantic spot, where many a Guatimala lover has been hurried, by the charming influences around, into a premature outpouring of his hopes and fears, I sat down on a stone and washed my feet. At two o'clock, under a brilliant moonlight, and with a single guide, we started for th~ Pacific. The road was level and wooded. We passed a trapiche or sugar-mill, worked by oxen, and before daylight reached the village of Masagua, four leagues distant, built in a clearing cut out of the woods, at the entrance of which we stopped under a grove of orange-trees, and by the light of the moon filled our pockets and alforgas with the shining fruit. Daylight broke upon us in a forest of gigantic trees, from 7 5 to 100 feet high, and from 20 to 25 feet in circumference, with creepers winding around their trunks and hanging from the branches. The road was merely a path through the forest, formed by cutting away shrubs and branches. The freshness of the morning was delightful. We had descended from the table land called the tien·as templadas, and were now in the tierras calientes; but at nine o'clock the glare and heat of the sun did not penetrate the thick shade of the woods. In some places the branches of the trees, trimmed by the machete of a passing muleteer, and hung with a drapery of vines and creepers, bearing red and purple flowers, formed for a long distance natural arches more beautiful than any ever fashioned by man; and there were parrots and other birds of beautiful plumage flying among the trees; among them Guacamayas, or great macaws, large, clothed in red, yellow and green, and when on the wing displaying a splendid plumage. But there were also vultures and scorpions, and, nmning across the road and up the trees, innumerable iguanas or lizards, from an inch to three feet long. The road was a mere track among the trees, perfectly desolate, though twice we met muleteers bringing up goods from the port. At the distance of twelve miles we reached the hacienda of Naranjo, occupied by a major-domo, who looked after the cattle of the proprietor, roaming wild in the woods; the house stood alone in the midst of a clearing, built of poles, with a cattle-yard in front; and I spied a cow with a calf, which was a sign of milk. But you must catch a cow before you can milk her. The mrijor-domo went out with a lazo, and, playing 11,pon tho chord of natw·e, caught tho calf first, and then the cow, and hauled her up by the horns to a post. The hut had but one guacal, or drinking-shell, made of a gourd, and it was so small that we sat down by the cow so as not to lose much time. ·we had bread, chocolate, and sausages, and after a ride of 176 'l'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. twenty-four miles, made a glorious breakfast ; but we exhausted the poor cow, and I was ashamed to look the calf in the face. Resuming our journey, at a distance of nine miles we reached the solitary hacienda of Overo. The whole of this great plain was densely wooded and entirely uncultivated, but the soil was rich, and capable of maintaining, with very little labour, thousands of people. Beyond Overo the country was open in places, and the sun beat down with scorching force. At one o'clock we crossed a rustic bridge, and through the opening in the trees saw the river Michatoyal. We followed along its bank, and very soon heard breaking on the shore the waves of the great Southern Ocean. The sound was grand and solemn, giving a strong impression of the immensity of those waters, which had been rolling from the creation, for more than 5,000 years, unknown to civilized man. I was loth to disturb the impression, and rode slowly through the woods, listening in profound silence to the grandest music that ever fell upon my ear. The road terminated on the bank of the river, and I had crossed the Continent of America. On the opposite side was a long sandbar, with a flagstaff, two huts built of poles and thatched with leaves, and three sheds of the same rude construction; and over the bar were seen the masts of a ship riding on the Pacific. This was the port of Istapa. We shouted above the roar of the waves, and a man came down to the bank, and loosing a canoe, came over for us. In the meantime, the interest of the scene was somewhat broken by a severe assault of mosquitoes and sandflies. The mules suffered as much as we ; but I could not take them across, and was obliged to tie them under the trees. Neither Rumaldo nor my guide could be prevailed upon to remain and watch them; they said it would be death to sleep there. 'l'he river is the outlet of the Lake of Amatitan, and is said to be navigable from the Falls of San Pedro Martyr, seventy miles from its mouth; but there are no boats upon it, and its banks are in the wildness of primeval natme. The crossing-place was at the old mouth of ,the river. The sandbar extends about a mile further, and has been formed since the conquest. Landing, I walked across the sand to the house or hut of the captain of the port, and a few steps beyond saw the object of my journey, the boundless waters of the Pacific. When Nunez de Balboa, after crossing swamps and rivers, mountains and woods, which had never been passed but by straggling Indians, came down upon the shores of this newlydiscovered sea, he rushed up to the middle in the waves with his buckler and sword, and took possession of it in the name of the king his master, vowing to defend it in arms against all his enemies, But Nunez had the assurance that beyond that sea "he would find immense PORT OF ISTAPA. 177 stores of gold, ont of which people did cat and drink." I had only to go buck again. I had ricldcu nearly sixty miles; the sun was intensely hot, the sand burni11g, and ,ery soon I entered the hnt and threw myself into a ha=ock. 'l'he hut ,rns built of poles set up in the sand, thatched with the branches of trees ; furnished with a wooden table, a bench, nnd some boxes of merchandise, and swarming with mos,1uitoes. 'l'he captain of the port, as he brushed them away, complained of the desolation and dreariness of the place, its isolation and separation from the world, its unhealthiness, and the misery of a man doomed to live there; and yet he feared the result of the war, a chaugc of administn,- tion, and being turned ont of office ! 'l'oward evening, r ested and refreshed, I walked ont upon the shore. 'fhe port is an open roadstead, without bay, headland, rock, or reef, or anything whatever to distinguish it from the line of the coast. There is no light at night, and vessels at sea take their bearings from the great volcanoes of the Antigua, more than sixty miles inland. A buoy was anchored outsffic of the breakers, with a cable attached, and nnder the sheds were three large launches for embarking and disembarking cargoes. 'l'hc ship, which was from Bordeaux, lay off more than a mile from the shorn. Her boat had landed the supercargo and passe11gcrs, since which she had had no communication with the land, and seemed proudly independent of so desolate a place. Behind the sandbar ·were a few Indian huts, and Indians nearly naked were sitting by me ou the shore. Y ct this desolate place was once the focus of ambitious hopes, high aspirations, lust of power and gold, and romantic adventure. Here Alvarado fitted out his armament, and embarked II ith his followers to dispute with Pizarro the riches of Peru. The sun wru; sinking, and the red globe touched the ccean ; clouds were visible on its face, and when it disappeared, ocean and land were illuminated with a ruddy haze. I returned to the hut, and threw myself into my hammock. Could it he that I was again so far from home, and that these worn the waves of the. grcaL Southern Ocean breaking on my cars 1 N 178 TM YELS IN CENTRAL .AfilRICA, CHAPTER XIV. l'HE Jl.ETUR'S-llUNT FOR A )[ULE-OYERO-MASAGUA-ESCUINTLA-FALLS OF SAN PEDRO MATIT\'R-MJCl[ATOYAL RJVER-YJLL,\GE OF SA~ l'EDRO-A. MAJOR-DO)JO-SAS" CRTSTOVALAMATI TAN-A ROVING AMERICAN-ENTRY INTO Gt'ATIMALA-LETTER FROM MR, CATHERWOOD- CHRISTMAS EVE-ARRlVAL OF )tR. CATUERWOOD-PLAZA DE TOROS-A BULLFIGHTTHE THEATRE-OFFICI,\ L nusno:ss-THE AHISTOCnACY OF GUATIMALA-STATE OF TUE COUNTRY-NEW YEAR'S DAY-FEROCITY OF PARTY. AT three o'clock Runmldo woke me to set out on my return. The moonbeams were glanciug over the water, and the canoe was ready. I bade farewell to my host as he lay in his hammock, and crossed the river. Here I found an unexpected difficulty. My spare mule had broken her halter, and was nowhere to be seen. ·we beat about among the ,mods till daylight, and concluding that she must have taken the only path open, and set out for home on her own account, we saddled and rode on to Overo, a distance of twenty miles. But no stray mule had passed the hacienda, and I stopped and sent Rumaldo back to the port. Very soon I became tired of waiting at the miserable hacienda, saddled my mule, and started, alone. 'l'he road was so shaded that I did not stop for the noonday heat. For twenty-one miles further the road was perfectly desolate, the only sound being occasionally the crash of a falling tree. At the village of Masagua I rode up to a house, at which I saw a woman under the shed, and, unsaddling my mule, got her to send a man out to cut sacate, and to make me some chocolate. I was so pleased with my independence that I almost resolved to travel altogether by myself, without servant or change of apparel. In half an hour I resumed my journey. Towards evening I met drunken Indians coming out from Escuintla, and, looking forward, saw towering to the skies the two volcanoes of Fire aud ,v ater, and the intervening country glowing in the bright colours of the setting sun. Some time after dark I rode up to the house of the corregidor, having performed in the two days llO miles. Unfortunately, there -was no sacate for my mule. '£his article is brought into the towns by the Indians daily, and every person buys just enough for the night, and no more. There was not a spare lock of grass in the place. ·with a servant of the corregidor's I made an exploring expedition through the town, and by an affecting appeal to an old woman, enforced by treble price, bought from under their very noses the portion of two mules, and left them supperless. I waited till two o'clock the next day for Rumaldo and the mule, and, after a vain endeavour to procure a guide to the falls of San Pedro Martyr, set out alone direct for Guatimala. At the distance of two leagues, ascending a steep hill, I passed a trapiche or sugar-mill, in a magnificent situation, commanding a full view of the plaiu I bad I 'I ,l 1 I I FALLS OF SAX PEDRO MARTYR. ]70 crosseu and the ocean beyond. Tim oxen were grinding sugar-cane, and under a shed was a large boiling caldron for making panela, a brown sugar, in lumps of about two pounds each, an enormous quantity of which is consumed iu the country. Herc the humour seized me to make some inquiries about the falls of San Pedro Martyr. A man out at ell,ows, aud every other mentionable and unmentionable part of his body, glad to get rid of regular work, o!fercd to conduct me. I had passed, a league back, the place where I ought to have turned off; and proceeding onward to the village of San Pedro, he turned off to the right, and went back almost in tho same direction by a narrow path descending through thick woods choked with bushes, and in a ravine reached the :Michatoyal River, which I had crossed at Istapa. It was narrow and rapid, breaking wildly over a stony bed, with a high mountain on the opposite side. Following it, we reached the cataract, consisting of fom· streams separated by granite rock, partly concealed by bushes, and precipitated from a height of about 200 feet, forming with the wild scenery around a striking and romantic view. A little below it were a sugar-mill worked by water, and an uncommonly fine hacienda, which commanded a view of the falls, and at which I was very much disposed to pass the night. Tho major-domo, a black man, was somewhat surprised at my visit; but when he leamed that I did not come to see the mill, but only the falls, he seemed to suspect that I was no better than I should be; and when I asked him if I could reach San Cristoval before dark, he answered that I could if I started immediatel_y. This was not exactly an im,itation to stay, and I left him. It shows the "·ant of curiosity and indolence of tho people, that, though these falls are but a plca&'mt afternoon's ride from Escuintla, which for two months is thronged "·ith visitors from Gnatirnala, nobody ever visits them. Hurrying back by the same ,Yild path, we reached the main road, and, as it was late, I hired my guide to go on with me to San Cristoml. We passed through the village of San Pedro, which was a collection of miserable huts, with an estanco or place for the sale of agua ardientc, and thronged with half-intoxicated Indians. As we advanced, clouds began to gather around the mountains, and there was OYery appearanco of hcayy rain. I had no cloak or greatcoat, and, being particnlarly apprehensive of fevers and rheumatisms, after riding about a mile, I retumed to San Pedro. The most respectable citizens of the place ,rnre reeling round the estanco, and urged me stop; but my guide said they were a bad set, and advised me to return and pass the night at the 8ngar-mill. Presuming that he knew the people of whom he spoke better than I did, I ,ms no ,,ay inclined to disregard his caution. It was after dark when we reached the trapichc; some of the workmen N 2 180 TRAVELS IN CEci'TRAL AMERICA, ·were silting around a fire smoking; others were lying asleep under a shed, and I had but to "Look around and choose my ground, And take my rest," I inquired for the major-domo, and was escorted to a mud house, where in the dark I heard a harsh voice, and presently by the light of a pine stick, saw an old and forbidding face corresponding, and by its side that of a young woman, so soft and sweet that it seemed to appear expressly for the sake of contrast; and these two were one. I was disposed to pity her; but the old nmjor-domo was a noble fellow in heart, and she manngecl him so beautifully that he never suspected it. He was about going to bed, but sent men out to cut sacate, and both he and his wife were pleased that accident had brought me to their hut. The workmen sympathised in their humour, and we sat for two hours around a lm·gc table under the shed, with two candles sticking up in their own tallow. They could not comprehend that I had been to the top of the Volcano de Agua, and tlien ridden clown to the coast merely to see the Pacific. A fine, open-faced young man had a great desire to travel, only he did not like to go away from home. I offered to take him with me and give him good ' wages. The subject was discussed aloud. It was an awful thing to go away from home, and among strangers, where no one would care for him. His house was the outside of the major-domo's hut, but. his home was in the hearts of his friends, and perhaps some of them would be dead before he returned. The wife of the major-domo seemed a good spirit in tempering the hearts and conduct of these wild and half-naked men. I promised to give him money to pay his expenses home when he should wish to return, and he agreed to go with me. At three o'clock the old major-domo was shouting in my ears. I was not familiar with my own name with the don prefixed, and thought he had "waked up the wrong passenger." The courage of the young man who wished to travel failed him, and he did not make his appearance; in the expectation of his going my guide did not come, and I sot out alone. Before daylight I passed for the third time through tho villa&c of San Pedro, and a little beyond overtook a bundle on horseback, which proved to be a boy and a woman, with one poncha over both. 'L'he River :Michatoyal was foaming and breaking in a long succession of rapids on our right, and we rode on together to San Cristoval. I rode up to the convent, pounced upon the cura at the witching hour of breakfast, mounted again, and rode around the base of the Volcano de Agua, with its cultivated fields and belt of forest and verdure to the top. Opposite was another volcano, its sides covered with immense forests. Between the two I passed a single E:-;TRY ~TO Gl'A'l'DlALA. 181 tmpichc belonging to a convent of Dominican fri ar.,, traversed a large and beautiful mlley, passed hot springs, smoking for more than a mile along the road, and entered among the nopals or cochineal plantations of Amatitan. Ou both sides were l,igh day fences, and the nopals were more extensi-rn than those of tho Antigua, and more valuable, as, though only t,rnnty-five miles from it, the climate is so different that they produce two crops in each season. Tho road lay across a plain, with a high, precipitous, and verdant wall on the left. At a distance of a league we ascended a steep hill to tho table-land of Guatimalu. I regret that I cannot communicate to tho reader the highest pleasure of my joumey in Central America, that derived from the extraordinary beauty of scenery constantly changing. At the time I thought this the most delightful ride I bad had in the country. On the way I overtook a man and his wife on horseback, ho with a game-cock under his arm, and she with a guitar; a little boy w:,s hidden away among bedding on a luggage-mule, and four lads were with them on foot, each with a game-cock wrapped in matting, with the bead and tail only visible. 'fhey were going to Guatimula to puss the Christmas holydays, ancl ,Yith this respectable party I cntcl'Cd the gate of the city, on the eighth clay after my departme. I founcl a letter from J\fr. Catherwood, elated at Esqui pulas, informing me that he had been robbed by his servant, taken ill, had left the ruins, gone to Don Gregorio's, and was then on his journey to Guatimala. ~Iy messenger had pnssed through Copan, and gone 011 he did not know where. I was in great distress, and resolrnd, after a day's rest, to set off in search of him. I dressed myself aud went to a party at Sciior Zcbadua's, formerly minister to England, where I surprised the Gnatimaltecos by the tour I had made, and particularly by having come alone from Istapa. Herc I met l>Ir. Chatfield, her Britannic majesty's consul-general, and Mr. Skinner, who had arrived dming my al,sence. It was Christmas Em, the uight of El N acimiento, or birth of Christ. At one eud of the snla was a raised platform, with a green floor, and decorated with branches of pine and cypress, having birds sitting upon them, aucl looking-glass, ancl sandpaper, ancl figures of men ancl animals, representing a rural scene, with an arbour, and a wax doll in a cradle; in short, the grotto of Bethlehem and the infant Saviour. Always, at this scDson of the year, every house in Guatimala has its Nacimiento, according to the ,rcalth and taste of the proprietor, and in time of peace the figure of the Saviour is adorned with family jewels, pearls, and precious stones, and at night c,cry house is open, and the citizens, without acquaintance or invitation, or clislinctiou of mnk or persons, go from house to house visiting; nncl Lhc week of El Nacimicnto is 182 TRAVELS IN CE'.'ITRAL A~mr,IC,L tho gayest in the year ; but unfortunately, at this time it was observed only in form; tho state of tho city was too uncertain to permit general opening of houses and running in the streets at night. Carrcra's soldiers might enter. The party ,rns small, but consisted of the elite of Guatimala, and commenced with supper, after which followed dancing, and, I am obliged to add, smoking. The room was badly lighted, and the company, from the precarious state of the country, not gay; but the dancing was kept up till twelve o'clock, when tho ladies put on thei1· mantillas, and we all went to the Cathedral, where were to be performed the imposing ceremonies of the Christmas E\-e. The floor of tho church was crowded with citizens, and a large concourse from the villages around. Mr. Savage accompanied me 'home, and we did not get to bed till three o'clock in the morning. The bells had done ringing, and Christmas mass had been said in all tho churches before I awoke. In the afternoon was the first bull-fight of the season. My friend Vidaurre had called for me, and I was in the act of going to the Plaza de Toros, when there was a loucl knock at the puerta cochera, and in rode Mr. Catherwood, armed to the teeth, pale and thin, most happy at reaching Guatimala, but not half so happy as I was to see him. He was in advance of his luggage, but I dressed him up and carried him immediately to tho Plaza de Toros. It stands near the church of El Calvario, at tho end of the Calle Real, in shape and form like the Roman amphitheatre, about 350 feet long, and 250 broad, capable of containing, as we supposed, about 8,000 people, at least one-fourth of the population of Guatimala, and was then crowded Vl'ith spectators of both sexes and all classes, the best and tho vilest in the city, but all conducting themselves with perfect propriety. "\Ve recognised several parties; in fact, the greater part of our Guatimala acquaintances were present. The seats commenced about 10 feet above the area, with a corridor and open wooden fence in front to protect the spectators, astride which sat Carrera's disorderly soldiers to keep order. At one encl, underneath the corridor, was a large door, through which the bnll was to be let in. At the other end, separated by a partition from the part occu• pied by the rest of the spectators, was a large box, empty, formerly intended for the captain general and other principal officers of gowrnment, and now reserved for Canera. Underneath was a military band, composed mostly of Indians. Notwithstanding the collection of people, and tho expectation of an animating sport, there was no clapping or stamping, or other expression of •impatience and anxiety for the performance to begin. At length Carrera entered the captain general's box, dressed in a badly-fitting blue military frock-coat, A BuLL FIGIIT, 183 embroidered with gold, aucl attended by ~Ionte Rosa and other officers, richly dressed, tho alcalde and members of tho municipality. All eyes were turned towm·ds him, as when a king or emperor enters his box at tho theatre in Em·opc. A year before he was hunted among tho mountain8, under a rewn,rd for his body, "dead or n,live," and ninetenths of those who now looked upon him would then have shut the city against him as a robber, murderer rind outcast. Soon after the picadores euterccl, eight in number, mounted, and each currying a lance and a reel ponchri; they galloped round the area, and stopped with their lances opposite tho door at which tho bull was to enter. Tho door was pulled open by a padre, a great cattleproprictor, who owned the bulls of the day, and the animal rushed out into the m·ea, kicking up his heels as if in play, but at sight of tho lino of horsemen and lances turned about and ran back quicker than ho eutered. The padre's bull was an ox, and, like u sensible beast, wouhl rather run than fight ; but the door "·as closed upon him, and perforce he ran round the area, looking up to the spectators for mercy, and below for an outlet of escape. The horsemen followed, "prodding" him with their lances ; and all arouncl tho area, men and boys on the fence threw barbed darts with ignited fireworks attached, which, sticking in his flesh and exploding on every pm-t of his body, irritated him, and sometimes made him turn on his pmsuers. Tho picaclorcs led him on by flaring ponchas before him, and as he pressed them, the skill of the picadore consisted in throwing the poncha over his horns so us to blind him, and then fixing in his neck, just behind his jaw, a sort of balloon of fireworks; when this was done successfully it created shonts of applause. 'l'hc government, in an excess of humanity, had forbidden the killing of bulls, and restricted the fight to worrying and tortming. Consequently, it was entirely different fr0m the bullfight in Spain, and wanted even the exciting interest of a fierce struggle for life, and the chance of tho picadore being gored to death or tossed over among the spectators. But, watching the earnest gaze of thousands, it was easy to imagine tho intense excitement in a martial ago, when gladiators fought in tho arena before the nobility and beauty of Rome. One poor ox, after being tired out, was allowed to withdraw. Others followed, ancl went through the same round. All tho padre's bulls were oxen. Sometimes a picadorc on foot was chased to tho fence under a general laugh of the spectators. After the last ox had nm his rounds, the picuclores withdrew, and men and boys jumped over into the arena in such numbers that they fairly hustled the ox. 'fhe noise and confusion, the flaring of coloured ponchas, tho running and tumbling, attacking and retreating, and clouds of dust, made this the most stirring scm10 of any ; but altogether it was a 184 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Ail!ERICA. puerile exhibition, and the better classes regarded it merely as an occasion for meeting acquaintance. In the evening we went to the theatre, which opened for the first time. A largo building had been commenced in the city, but in one of the revolutions it bad been demolished, and the work was abandoned. The performance was in the courtyard of a house. The stage was erected across one of tho corners; the patio was the pit, and the corridor was divided by temporary partitions into boxes; the audience sent beforehand, or servants brought with them, their own seats. We bad invitations to the box of Seiior Vidaurre. Carrera was there, sitting on a bench a little elevated against the wall of the house, aud at the right hand of Rivera Paz, the chief of the state. Some of his officers were with him in their showy uniforms, but he had laid his aside, and had on his black bombazet jacket and pantaloons, and was very unpretending in his deportment. The first piece w::is Saide, a tragedy. The company consisted entirely of Guatimaltecos, and their performance was very good. There was no change of scenery ; when the curtain fell, all lighted cigars, ladies included, and, fortunately, there was an open court yard for the escape of the smoke. ·when the perfonnance was over, the boxes waited till the pit was emptied. Special ,care had been taken in placing sentinels, and all went home quietly. During the week there was an attempt at gaiety, but all ,rns more -or less blended with religious solemnities. One was that of the N oYena, or term of nine clays' prn.ying to the Virgin. One lady, who was dis, tinguished for the observance of this term, had an altar built across the whole end of the sala, with three steps, decorated with flowers, and a platform adorned with looking-glasses, pictures, and figures, in the centre of which was an image of the Virgin richly dressed, the whole ornamented in a way impossible for me to describe, but that may be imagined in a place where natural flowers are in the greatest profnsion, and artificial ones made more perfect than in Europe, and where the ladies have cxtraonlinary taste in the disposition of them. When I entered the gentlemen were in an ante-room, with hats, canes, and small swords ; and in the sala the ladies, with female serrnnts cleanly dressed, were on their knees praying; in front of the fairy altar was one who seemed a fairy herself; and while her lips moved, her bright eye was roving, and she looked more worthy of being kneeled to than the pretty image before her, and as if she thought so too. In regard to my official business I was perfectly at a loss what to do. In Guatimala all were on one side; all said that there was no Federal Government; and :Mr. Chatfield, the British consul-gencml, 1ylJose opinion I respected more, concurred, and had published a circular, denying its existence. But the Federal Government claimed to be in OFFICIAL BUSINESS. 1s.:, existence ; and the bare suggestion of General l\Iorazan's marching against Guatimala excited consternation. Several times there were rumours to that effect, and one that he had actually determined to do so; that not a single priest would be spared, and that the streets would run with blood. The boldest partisans trembled for their lives. 1Iorazan had never been beaten; Carrera had always run before him; they had no faith in his being able to defend them, and could not defend themselves. At alJ events, I bad as yet heard only one side, and did not consider myself justified in assuming that there was no government. I was bound to make "diligent search," and then I might return, in legal phrase, "cepi corpusf' or "non est invcntus," according to circumstances. For this purpose I determined to go to San Salvador, which was formerly, and still claimed to be, the capital of the Confederation aud the seat of the Federal Government, or, rather, to Cojutepeqne, to which place the government had been then lately transferred, on account of earthquakes at San Salvador. This project was not with-. out its difficulties. One Rascon, with an insurgent and predatory band, occupied an intervening district of country, acknowledging neither party, and fighting under his own flag. Mr. Chatfield and l\Ir. Skinner had come by sea, a circuitous route, to avoid him, and Captain de N ouvelJe, master of a French ship lying at the port of San Salmdor, arrived in Guatimala almost on a run, having ridden sixty miles the last day over a mountainous country, who reported horrible atrocities, and three men murdered near San Vicente, on theil- way to the fair at Esquipulas, and their faces so disfigured that they could not be recognised. Immediately on his arrival, he sent a courier to order his ship up to Istapa, merely to take him back, and save him from returning by land. I hacl signified my intention to the state government, which was dissatisfied with my going to San Salvador at all, but offered me an escort of soldiers, suggesting, however, that if we met any of Morazan's, there would certainly be a fight. 'fhis "·as not at alJ pleasant. I was loth to travel a third time the road to Istapa, hut, under the circumstances, accepted Captain de N ouvelle's invitation to take n passage in bis ship. Meanwhile I passed my time in social visiting. In our own city the aristocracy is called by the diplomatic corps at Washington the aristocracy of streets. In Gnatimala it is the aristocracy of houses, as certain families live in tho houses built by their fathers at the foundation of the city, and they are really aristocratic old mansions. These families, by reason of certain monopolies of importation, acquired under the Spanish dominion immense wealth and rank as "merchant princes." StiJJ they were excluded from all offices and alJ part in the 186 'l'RA V-ELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, government. At the time of the revolution 0110 of these families was 11oblc, with the rank of marquisate, and its head tore off the insignia of his rank, and joined tho revolutionary party. Next in position to the officers of the crown, they thought that, emancipated from the yoke of Spain, they would have the government in their own hands; and so they had, but it was only for a short time. The principles of equal rights began to be understood, and they were put aside. For ten years they had been in obscurity, !mt accidentally they were again in power, and at the time of my visit ruled in social as well as political life. I do not wish to speak harshly of them, for they were the only people who constituted society; my intercourse was almost exclusively with them; my fair countrywoman was one of them; I am indebted to them for much kindness; and, besides, they are personalJy amiable; but I speak of them as public men. I did not sympathise with them in politics. 'Io me the position of the country seemed most critical, and from a cause which in all Spanish America had never operated before. At the time of the first invasion a few hundred Spaniards, by superior bravery and skill, and with more formidable a.rms, had conquered the whole Indian population. Naturally peaceable, and kept without arms, the conquered people had remained quiet and submissive during the three centuries of Spanish dominion. In the civil wars following the independence they had borne but a subordinate part ; and down to the time of Carrera's rising they were entirely ignorant of their own physical strength. But this fearful discovery had now been made. The Indians constituted three-fourths of the inhabitants of Guatimii,b; were the hereditary owners of the soil; for the first time since they fell under the dominion of the whites, were organized and armed under a chief of their own, who chose for the moment to sustain the Central party. I did not sympathise with that party, for I believed that in their hatred of the Liberals they were conrting a third power that might destroy them both; consorting with a wild animal which might at any moment turn and rend them in pieces. I believed that they were playing upon the ignorance and prejudices of the Indians, and, through the priests, upon their religious fanaticism; amusing them with fetes and Church ceremonies, persuading them that the Liberals aimed at a demolition of churches, destruction of the priests, and hurrying back the country into darkness; and in the general heaving of the elements there was not a man of nerve enough among them, with the influence of name and station, to rally round him the strong and honest men of the country, reorganize the shattered republic, and save them from the disgrace and clanger of truckling to an ignorant uneducated T nclian boy. KEW YKm's DAY. 187 Such were my sentiments; of course I avoided expressing them; lmt because I did not denounce their opponents, some looked coldly npon me. With them political differences severed all ties. Our worst party abuse is moderate and mild compared with the terms in which they speak of each other. 1Vc seldom do more than call men ignomut, incompetent, dishonest, dishonourable, false, corrupt, subverters of the Constitution, and bought with British gold; there tt political opponent is a robber, an assassin; it is praise to admit that he is not a bloodthirr;ty cut-throat. \Ve complain that our cars are constantly offended, and our passions rousccl by angry political discussions. '!'here it would have been delightful to hear a gootl, honest, hot, and angry political dispute. I travelled in every State, and I never heard one; for I never met two men together who differed in political opinions. Defeated partisans are shot, banished, run away, or get a moral lockjaw, and never dare express their opinions before one of the dominant party." \Ye have just passed through a violent political struggle; twenty millions of people have been divided almost man to man, friend against friend, neighbour against ncighbom, brother against brother, and son against father; besides honest differences of opinion, ambition, want, and lust of power and office lrnve roused passions sometimes to fierceness. Two millions of men highly excited have spoken out their thoughts and sentiments fearlessly and openly. They have all been counted, and the first rule in arithmetic has decided between them; and the defeated party are still permitted to lirn in the country; their wiYes and children are spared; nay, more, they may grnmble in the streets, and hang out their banners of defiance, of continued and determined opposition: and, more than all, the pillars of the republic arc not shaken! Among a million of disappointed men, never, with all the infirmities of human passion, has one breathed resistance to the Constitution and laws. Tho world has never presented such a spectacle, such a proof of the capacity of the people for self-government. Long may it continue! May the tongue ,vithcr that dares preach resistance to the ballot-boxes; and may the moral influence of our example reach our distracted sister republics, staying the sword of persecution in the hands of victors, and crushing the spirit of revolution in a defeated party. Janual'y l, 1840.-This clay, so full of home associations-snow, and reel noses, and blue lips out of doors, and blazing fires, and beauteous faces within-opened in Guatimala like a morning in spring. The sun seemed rejoicing in the beauty of the Janel it shone upon. The flower.; were blooming in the courtyards, and the mountains, visible above the tops of the houses, were smiling in verdure. The * This wa,; written in H:i !O. 188 TIUVELS IN CE':IITRAL AlllEilICA. bells of thirty-eight churches and convents proclaimed the coming of another year. The shops were shut as on a Sunday; there was 110 market in the plaza. Gentlemen well dressed, and ladies in black nmntas, were crossing it to attend grand mass in the Cathedral. l\Iozart's music swelled through the aisles. A priest in a strange tongue proclaimed morality, religion, and love of country. The floor of the church was thronged with whites, Jllestitzocs, and Indians. On a high bench opposite the pulpit sat the chief of the state, and by his side Carrera, again dressed in bis rich uniform. I leaned against a pillar opposite, and watched his face; and if I read him right, he had forgotten 1rnr and the stains of blood upon his hands, and his very soul was filled with fanatic enthusiasm; exactly as the priests would have him. I did verily believe that he was honest in his impulses, and would clo right if he knew ho,,. They who undertake to guide him hn,ve a fearful responsibility. The service ended, a way was cleared through the crowd. Carrera, accompanied by the priests and the chief of the state, awkward in his movements, with his eyes fixed on the ground, or with furtive glances, as if ill at ease in being an object of so much attention, walked clown the aisle. A thousand ferocious-looking soldiers were drawn up before the door. A wild burst of music greeted him, and the faces of the men glowed with devotion to their chief. A broad banner was unfurled, with stripes of black and reel, a device of a cle,,th's head and legs in the centre, and on one side the words "Viva la religion!" and on the other, "Pazo muerte a los Liberales ! " Carrera placed himself at their head, and with Rivera Paz by his side, and the fearful banner floating in the air, and wild and thrilling music, and the stillness of death around, they escorted the chief of the state to his house. IIow different from New Year's D[l,y at home! Fanatic as I knew the people to be in religion, and violent in political animosities, I clicl not believe that such an outrage would ba coi;ntenaneecl as flaunting in tho plaza of the capital a banner linking together the support of religion and the death or submission of the Liberal party. Afterwards, in a conversation with tho chief of the state, I referred to this banner. He liacl not noticed it, but thought that the last clause was "Paz o rnuorte a los qui no lo quieron," "to those who do not wish it." This does not alter its atrocious character, and only adds to fanaticism what it takes from party spirit. I think, howeyer, that I am right; for on the return of the soldiers to the plaza, l\Ir. C. and I followed it, till, as we thought, the standard-bearer contracted its folds expressly to hide it, and some of the officers looked at us so suspiciously that we withdrew. lll'l\T FOR A GOVERXMEX1'. 189 CHAPTER XV. UUXT ron A G0VEll!Olt:~T-DH•L0'.'.rATIC Dll'l'lCULTIES-DEl'ARTURE FROM GUATDJALA-J.AK.l! OP A1\tATITAN-ATTACK OF FEVE!l AND AGUE-0V.ER0-ISTAl'A-A FRENCH MERCHA~T SHIP -I•ORT O~• ACAJUTLA-ILt.S£SS-ZONZO,.-ATE-TH.E GO\'ERNllEXT FOUND-VISIT TO TJIE \"OLCA'i'O OF IZALCO-COURSE OP THE J::RUl'TIOSS-DESCEST }'ROM THE VQ.LCJ.!'-:0. ON Sunday, the fifth of January, I rose to set out in search of a government. Don Manuel Pavon, with his usual kindness, brought me a packet of letters of introduction to his friends in San Salvadrn·. Mr. Catherwood intended to accompany me to the Pacific. We had not packed up, the muleteer had not made bis appearance, and my passport had not been sent. Captain de Nouvelle waited till nine o'clock, and then went on in advance. In the midst of my confusion I received a visit from a distinguished ecclesiastic. The reverend prelate was surprised at my setting out on that day. I was about pleading my necessities as au excuse for travelling on the sabbath; but he relieved me by adding that there was to be a dinner-party, a bull-fight, and a play, and he wondered that I could resist such temptations. At eleven o'clock the muleteer came, with his mules, his wife, and a ragged little sou; but owing to various delays we did not get off until the afternoon, and late as it was, diverged from the regular road for the purpose of passing by tbe Lake of Amatitan, but it was dark when we reached the top of the high range of mountains which bounds that beautiful water. Looking down, it seemed like a gathering of fog in the bottom of a deep valley. 'l'he descent was by a rough zigzag path on the side of the mountain, very steep, and, in the extreme darkness, difficult and dangerous. We felt happy when we reached the bank of the lake, though still a little above it. 'l'he mountains rose round it like a wall, and cn.~t over it a gloom deeper than the shade of night. We rode for some distance with the lake on our left, and a high and perpendicular mountain-side on our right. A cold wind had succeeded the intense heat of the clay, and when we reached Amati tan I was perfectly chilled. We found tbe captain in the house he had indicated. It was nine o'clock, and, not having touched anything since seven in the morning, we were prepared to do justice to the supper he had provided for us. 'l'o ayoid the steep descent to the lake with the cargo-mules, om· muleteer had picked up a guide for us on the road, and gone on himself direct; but, to our surprise, he bad not yet arri,ed. While at suppe1· 190 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A:lIERICA, we heard an uproar in the street, and a man ran in to tell us that a mob was murdering our muleteer. 'l'he captain, a frequent visitor to the country, said it was probably a general sword fight, and cautioned us against going out. While in the corridor, hesitating, the uproar was hmrying toward us; the gate burst open, and a crowd rushed in, dragging with them our muleteer, that respectable husband and father, with his machete drawn, and so tipsy that he could hardly stand, but wanting to fight all the world. With difficulty we got him entangled among some sadclle-gear, when he dropped dO\,n, and, after vain efforts to rise, fell asleep. I awoke the next morning with violent headache and pain in all my bones. N everthflless, "l\'e started at daylight, and rode till five o'clock. The sun and heat increased the pain in my head, and for three hours before reaching Escuintla I was in great suffering. I avoided going to the corregidor's, for I knew that his sleeping apartment was open to all who came, and I wanted quiet; but I made a great mistake in stopping at the house of the captain's friend. He was the proprietor of an estanco, or distillery for making agua ardiente, and gave us a large room directly back of a store, and separated from it by a low board partition open over the top; and this store was const;mtly filled with noisy, wrangling, and drinking men and women. ~Iy bed was next to the partition, and we had eight or ten men in our room. All night I had a violent fever, and in tho morning I was unable to move. Captain de Nouvelle regretted it, but he could not wait, as his ship was ordered to lie off and on without coming to anchor. Mr. Catherwood had me removed to a store-room filled with casks and demijohns, where, except from occasional entries to draw off liquor, I was quiet; but the odour was sickening. In the afternoon the fever left me, and we rode to Masaya, a le,el and shady road of fom leagues, and, to our surprise and great satisfaction, found tho captain at the house at which T had stopped on my return from Istapa. He had advanced two leagues beyond, when he heard of a band of robbers at some distance further on, and returned to wait for company, sending, in the mean time, to Escuintia for a guard of soldiers. iVe afterwards learned that they were a body of exiles who had been expelled from Guatimala, and were crossing from Quemltenango to Sau Salvador; but, being in desperate circumstances, they were dangerous persons to meet on the road. 'l'he hut ,it which we stopped was hardly large enongh for the family that occupied it, and om luggage, with two hammocks and a catre, drove them into a very small space. Crying children are said to be healthy; if so, the good woman of the house was blessed: besides this, 0VEU0-ISTAPA, 191 a hen was hatching a brood'of chickens under my head. During the night a party of soldiers entered the village, in pursuance of the captain's requisition, and passed on to clear the road. ,v e started beforo daylight: but as the sun rose my fever returned, and at eleven o'clock, when we reached Overo, I could go no further. I have before remarked that this hacienda is a great stopping-place from Istapa and the salt-works; and unfortunately for me, several parties of muleteers, in apprehension of the robbers, had joined together, and starting at midnight, had ah·eady finished their day's labour. In the afternoon a wild pig was hunted, which our muleteer, with my gun, killed. There was a great feast in cooking and eating him, and the noise racked my brain. Night brought no relief. Quiet was all I wanted, but that it seemed impossible to have; besides which, the rancho was more than usually abundant in fleas. All night I had violent fever. Mr. Catherwood, who, from not killing any one at Copan, had conceived a great opinion of his medical skill, gave me a powerful dose of medicine, and toward morning I fell asleep. At daylight we started, and arrived at Istapa at nine o'clock. Captain de Nouvelle had not yet gone on board. Two French ships were then lying off the port : the Belle Poule and the Melanie, both from Bordeaux, the latter being the vessel of Captain de Nouvelle. He had accounts to arrange with the captain of the Belle Poule, and ,,e started first fo~ his vessel. As I have before said, Istapa is an open 1·oadstead, without bay, headland, rock, reef, or any protection whatever from the open sea. Generally the sea is, as its name imports, pacific, and the waves roll calmly to the shore ; but in the smoothest times there is a breaker, and to pass this, as a part of the fixtures of the port, an anchor is dropped outside, with a buoy attached, and a long cable passing from the buoy is secm·ed on shore. The longboat of the l\fobnio lay hard ashore, stern first, with a cable run through a gToove in the bows, and passing through the skulling hole in the stern. She was filled with goods, and among them we took our seats. The mate sat in tho stern, and, taking advantage of a ,rnve that raised tho bows, gave the order to haul. 'l'he wet rope whizzed past, and the bo:1t moved till, with the receding wave, it struck heavily on the sand. Anothc1· wave and another haul, and she swung clear of the bottom; and meeting the coming, and hauling fast on the receiling Wltvo, in a few minutes wo passed the breakers, the rope was thrown out of the groove, and the sailors took to their oars. It was one of the most beautiful of those beautiful days on tho Pacific, 'l'he great ocean was as calm as a lake ; the freshness of the 19.2 TRA YELS IN CEKTRAL AJIERICA, morning still rested upon the water, and already I felt revived. In a few minutes ,rn reached the Belle Poule, one of the most beautiful ships that ever floated, and considered a model in the French commercial marine. The whole deck was covered with an awning, having a border trimmed with scadct, and fluttering in the wind. The quarterdeck was raised, protected by a fancifnl awning, furnished with settees, couches, and chairs, and on a brass railing in front sat two beautiful Permian parrots. The door of the cabin was high enough to admit a tall man without stooping. On each side were four cabins, and the stern was divided into two chambers for the captain and supercargo, each with a window in it, and furnished with a bed (not a berth), a sofa, books, drawers, writing desk, everything necessary for luxurious living on ship-board; just the comforts with which one would like to circumnavigate the world. She was on a trading voyage from Bordeaux, with an assorted cargo of French goods; had touched at the ports in Peru, Chili, Panama, and Central America, and left at each place merchandise to be sold, and the proceeds to be invested in the products of the country; and was then bound to Mazatlan, ou the coast of Mexico, whence she would return and pick up her cargo, and in two years return to Bordeaux. "\Ve had a dejeuner a la fourchette, abounding in Paris luxuries, with wines and cafe, as in Paris, to which, fortunately for the ships stores, I did not bring my accustomed vigour; and there was style in everything, even to the name of the steward, who was called the maitre d'hotcl. At two o'clock we went on board the Melanie. She was about the same size, and if we had not seen the Belle Poule first, we should ha,e been delighted with her. 'l'he comfort and luxury of these "homes on the sea" were in striking contrast with the poverty and misery of the desolute shore. The captain of the Belle Poule came on board to dine, It was a pleasure to us to see the delight with which these two Bordeaux men and their crews met on this distant shore. Cape Horn, Peru, and Chili were the subjects of conversation, and we found on board a file of papers, which gave us the latest news from our friends in the Sandwich Islands. Mr. C. and the captain of the Belle Paule remained on board till we got under way. We bade them good-bye over the railing ; the evening breeze filled our sails ; for a few moments we saw them, a dark spot on the water; the wave sank, and we lost sight of them entirely. I remained on deck but a short time. I was the only passenger, and the maitre d'hotel made me a bed with settees directly under the stern windows, but I could not sleep. Even with windows and doors wide open the cabin was eiwessiyely warm; the air was heated, and it I I I I I A FRENCH MERCHANT SllTP. 1£3 wn_s full of mosquitoes. '!.'he captain and mates slept on deck. I was advised not to do so, but at twelve o'clock I went out. It was bright starlight ; the sails were flapping against the mast; the ocean ,rns like a sheet of glass, and the coast dark and irregular, gloomy, and portentous with volcanoes. The great bear was almost upon me, the 1Jorth star was lower than I had ever seen it before, and, like myself, seemed waning. A young sailor of the watch on deck spoke to me of the deceitfulness of the sea, of shipwrecks, of the wreck of all American vessel which he had fallen in wi_th on his first cruise in the Pacific, and of his beautiful and beloved France. The freshness of the air was grateful; and while he was entertaining me, I stretched myself on a settee and fell asleep. '!.'he next day I had a recurrence of fever, which continued npon me all day, and the captain put me under ship's discipline. In the morning the maltre d'h6tel stood by me with cup and spoon,-" l\Ionsieur, un vomitif;" and in the afternoon, "Monsieur, une purge." '\Vhen we arrived at .Acajutla I was unable to go ashore. As soon as we cast anchor the captain landed, and before leaving for Zonzonate engaged mules and men for me. '!.'he port of Acajutla is not quite so open as that of Istapa, having on the south a slight projecting headland of rock. In the offing were a goelette brig for a port in Peru, a Danish schooner for Guayaquil, and an English brig from London. All the afternoon I sat on the upper deck. Some of the sailors were asleep, and others playing cards. In sight were six volcanoes ; one constantly emitting smoke, and another flames. At night the Volcano of Izalco seemed a steady ball of fire. Tho next morning the mate took me ashore in the launch. The process was the same as at Istapa, and we were detained some time by the boat of the Engfah vessel occupying the cable. As soon as we struck, a crowd of Indians, naked except a band of cotton cloth around the loins and passing between the legs, backed up against the side of the boat. I mounted the shoulders of one of them; as the wave receded he carried me several paces omrnrd, then stopped and braced himself against the coming wave. I clung to his neck, bnt was fast sliding clown his slippery sides, when he deposited me on the shore of San Salvador, called by the Indians "Cuscatlan," or the land of riches. Alvarado, on his voyage to Peru, was the first Spaniard who ever set foot upon this shore; and as I took special care to keep my feet from getting wet, I could not but think of the hardy frames as well as iron nerves of the conquerors of America. The mate and sailors took leave of me and returned to the ship. I walked along the shore and up a steep hill. It was only eight o'clock, 0 194, TR.1.YELS IN CE~TRAL AMERICA. and ah~cady excessively hot. On the bank fronting the sea were the ruins of large warehouses, occupied as receptacles for merchandise under the Spanish dominion, when all the ports of America were closed against foreign vessels. In one corner of the ruined building was a sort of guard-room, where a few soldiers were eating tortillas, and one was cleaning his musket. Another apartment was occupied by the captain of the port, who told me that the mules engaged for mo had got loose, and the muleteers were looking for them. Here I had the pleasure to meet Dr. Driven, a gentleman from the island of St. Lucia, who had a large sugar hacienda a few leagues distant, and was at the port to superintend the disembarkation of machinery for a mill from the English brig. While waiting for the mules he conducted me to a hut where he had two Guayaquil hammocks hung, and feeling already tho effect of my exertions, I took possession of one of them. The woman of the rancho wa:s a sort of ship's husband; and there being three vessels in port, the rancho was encumbered with vegetables, fruit, eggs, fowls, and ship's stores. It was close and hot, but very soon I required all the covering I could get. I bad a violent ague, followed by a fever, in comparison with which all I had suffered before was nothing. I called for water till tho old woman was tired of giving it to me, and went out and left mo alone. I became light-headed, wild with pain, and wandered among the miserable huts with only the consciousness that my brain was scorching. I havo an indistinct recollection of speaking English to some Incl.inn women, begging them to get me a horse to ride to Zonzonate; of some laughing, others looking at me with pity, and others leading mo out of the sun, and making me lie down under the shade of a treo. At three o'clock in the afternoon the mate came ashore again. I had changed my position, and he found me lying on my face asleep, and almost withered by the sun. He wanted to take me back on board tho ship, but I begged him to procure mules and take mo to Zonzonate, within the reach of medical assistance. It is hard to feel worse than I did when I mounted. I passed three hom·s of agony, scorched by the intense heat, and a little before dark arrived at Zonzonate, fortunate, as Dr. Driven afterward told me, in not haying suffered a stroke of the sun. Before entering tho town and crossing the bridge over the Rio Grande, I met a gentleman well mounted, having a scarlet Peruvian pellon over his saddle, with whose appearance I was struck, and we exchanged low bows. This gentleman, as I afterward learned, was tho government I was looking after. I rode to tho house of Captain de N ouvelle's brother, one of tho largest in the place, where I had that comfort, seldom known in Central America, a room to myself, and everything else necessary. For several I STATE OF THE COUNTRY. 195 clays I remained within doors. The first afternoon I went out·I called upon Don Manuel de Aguilar, formerly chief of the State of Costa Rica, but about u year before driven out by a revolution and banished for life. At his house I met Don Diego Vigil, the vice-president of the republic, the same gentleman whom I had met on the bridge, and the only existing officer of the Federal Government. His business at Zonzonate showed the wretched state of the country. He had come expressly to treat with Rascon, the head of the band which had prevented my coming from Guatimala by land. Chico Rascon, as he was familiarly called in Zonzonate, was of an old and respectable family, who had spent a large fortune in dissipation in P.u·is, and returning in desperate circumstances, had turned patriot. About six months before, he had made a descent upon Zonzonate, killed the garrison to a man, robbed the custom-house, and retreated to hishaeienda. He was then on a visit in the town, publicly, by appointment with Senor Vigil, and demanded, us the price of disbanding his troops, a colonel's commission for himself, other commissions for some of his followers, and 4,000 dollars in money. Vigil as.sented to ull except tho 4,000 dollars in money, but offered instead the credit of the State of San Salvador, which Rascon agreed to accept. Papers were drawn up, and that afternoon was appointed for their execution; but, while Vigil was waiting for him, Rascon and his friends, without a word of notice, mounted their horses and rode out of town. The pluce was thrown into great excitement, and in the evening I saw the garrison busily engaged in barricading the plaza, in apprehension of andthcr attack. ·while these occurrences were taking place, I remained in Zonzonatc recruiting. The town is situated on the bunks of the Rio Grnmlc, which is formed by almost innumerable springs, and in the Indian language its name means 400 springs of water. It stands in one of the richest districts of the rich State of San Sal'l"Udor, and has its plaza, with streets at right angles, and white houses of one story, some of them very large; but it has borne its share of the calamities which have visited the un• fortunate Republic. The best houses are deserted, and their owners in exile. '!'here arc seven costly churches, and but one cura. , I was unable to undertake any journey by land, and feeling the enervating effect of the climate, swung all day in a hammock. Fortunately, the proprietors of the brig which I had seen at Acajutlu, bound for Peru, changecl her destination, and determined to send her to Costu Rica, the southernmost state of the Confederacy. At the samo time, a man offered as a servant, vory highly recommended, and whose appearance I liked; and I rcsolYed to have the benefit of the scu voyage, and, in returning by land, explore the canal route between the o2 196 'l'RAVELS IN" CE"'1TilAL AMERICA • .Atlantic and Pacific by the Lake of Nicaragua, a thing which I had desired much, Lut despaired of being able to accomplish. Before leaving I roused myself for an excursion. The window of my room opened upon the Volcano of Izalco. .All day I heard at short intervals the eruptions of the burning mountain, aml at night saw the column of flame bursting from the crater, and streams of fire rolling down its side. Fortunately, Mr. Blackwood, (111 Irish merchant, for many years resident in Peru, arrived, and agreed to accompany me. The next morning before five o'clock we were in the saddle. At the distance of a mile we forded the Rio Grande, here a wild river, and riding through a rich country, in half an hour reached the Indian village of Nagnisal, a lovely spot, and literally a forest of fruits and flowers. Large trees were perfectly covered with red, and at every step we could pluck fruit. Interspersed among these beautiful trees were the miserable huts of Indians, and lying on the ground, or at some lazy work, were the miserable Indians themselves. Before us, at the extreme end of a long street., was the church of Izalco, standing out in strong relief against the base of the volcano, which at that moment, with a loud report like the rolling of thunder, threw in the air a column of black smoke and ashes, lighted by a single flash of flame. With difficulty we obtained a guide, but he was so tipsy that he could scarcely guide himself along a straight street; and he would not go till the next day, as he said it was so late that we should be caught on the mountain at night, and that it was full of tigers. In the meantime the daughter of our host found another, and, stowing four green cocoa-nuts in his alfo1jas, we set out. Soon we came out upon an open plain, and, without a bush to obstruct tho view, saw on our left the whole volcano from its base to its top. It rose from near the foot of a mountain, to a height perhaps of 6,000 feet, its sides brown and barren, and all around for miles the earth was covered with lava. Being in a state of eruption, it was impossible to ascend it, but behind it is a higher mountain, which commands a view of the burning crater. The whole volcano was in full sight, spouting into the air a column of black smoke and an immense body of stones, while the earth shook under our feet. Crossing the plain, we commenced ascending the mountain. At eleven o'clock we sat down by the bank of a beautiful stream to breakfast. My companion had made abundant provision, and for the first time since I left Guatimala I felt the keenness of returning appetite. In half an hour we mounted, and soon after twelve o'clock entered the woods, having a very steep ascent by a faint path, which we soon lost altogether. Our guide changed his direction several times, and at length got lost, tied his horse, and left us to wait while he searched the VISIT TO A VOLCANO. 197 way. "\Ve knew that we were near the volcano, for the explosions sounded like the <leep mutterings of dreadful thunder. · Shut up as we were in the woods, these reports were awful. Our horses snorted with terror, and the mountain quaked beneath our feet. Our guide returned, and in a few minutes we came out suddenly upon an open point, higher than the top of the volcano, commanding a view of the interior of the crater, and so near it that we saw the huge stones as they separated in the air, and fell pattering around the sides of the volcano. In a few minutes our clothes were white with ashes, which foll around us with a noise like the sprinkling of rain. The cmtcr had three orifices, one of which was inactive; another emitted constantly a rich blue smoke; and after a report, deep in the huge throat of the third, appeared a light blue vapour, and then a mass of thick black smoke, whirling and struggling out in enormous wreaths, an<l rising in a dark majestic column, lighted for a moment by a sheet of flame ; and when the smoke dispersed, the atmosphere ·was darkened by a shower of stones and ashes. This over, a moment of stillness followed, and then another report and eruption, and these continued rcgubrly, at intervals, as our guide said, of exactly five minutes, and really he was not much out of the way. 'l'he sight was fearfully grand. "IV e refreshed ourselves with a draught of cocoa-nut milk, and thought how this grandeur would be heightened when the .stillness and darkness of night were interrupted by the noise and flame, and forthwith resolved to sleep upon the mountain. The cura of Zonzonatc, still in the vigour of life, told me that be remembered when the ground on which this volcano stands had nothing to disting11ish it from any other spot around. In 1798 a small orifice was clisco,ered puffing out small quantities of dust and pebbles. He was then living at Izalco, and, as a boy, ,rns in the habit of going to look at it; and he had watched it, and marked its increase from year to year, until it had grown into what it is no11'. Captain de Nouvelle told me he conld observe from the sea, that it had grown greatly within tho last two years. Two years before, its light conl<l not be seen at night on the other side of the mountain on which I stood. Kight and day it forces up stones from the bowels of the earth, spouts them into the air, and receives them upon its sides. Every day it is increasing, and probably it will continue to do so until the in ward fires die, or by some violent convulsion the whole is rent to atoms. Old travellers are not precluded occasional bursts of enthusiasm, but they cannot keep it up long. In about an hour we began to be critical and even captions. Some eruptions were better than others, 198 TRAVELS IN CE:':l'l'RAL AMERICA. and some were comparntivoly small affairs. In this frame of mind we summed up our want of comforts for passing the night on the mountain, and determined to return. Mr. Blackwood and I thought that we could avoid the circuit of the mountain, by descending directly to the base of the volcano, and crossing it, reach the camino real; but our guide said it was a tempting of Providence, and refused to accompnny us. We hnd a very steep descent on foot, and in some places our horses slid down on their haunches. An immense bed of lava, stopped in its rolling course by the side of tho mountain, filled up the wide space between us and tho base of the volcano. We stepped directly upon this black and frightful bed, but we had great difficulty in making our horses follow. The lava lay in rolls as irregular as the waves of tho sea, sharp, rough, and with huge chasms, difficult for us, and dangerous for the horses. ·with great labour we dragged them to the base and around the side of the ,olcano. Massive stones, hurled into the air, fell and rolled clown the sides, so near, that we dared not venture further. ·w o were afraid of breaking our horses' legs in the holes into which they were constantly falling, rrncl turned back. On the lofty point from which we had looked down into the crater of tho volcano sat our guide, gazing, and, as we could imagine, laughing at us. '\Ve toiled back across the bed of lava and up the side of the mountain, and when we reached the top, both my horse and I were almost exhausted. Fortunately, the road home was down hill. It was long after dark when we passed the foot of the mountain and came out upon the plain. Every bnrst of the volcano sent forth a pillar of fire; in four places ·were steady fires, and in one a stream of fire was rolling down its side. At eleven o'clock we reached Zonzonate, besides toiling around the base of tho volcrrno, haYing ridden upwards of fifty miles; and such had been the interest of the day's work, that, though my first effort, I never suffered from it. Tho arrangements for my voyage down the Paeific were soon made. 'l'he servant to whom I referred wrrs a native of Costa Rica, then on J,is way home, after a long aboonco, with a cargo of merchandise belonging to himself. He ,,as a tall, good-looking fellow, dressed in a Guatimala jrrckot or coton, a pair of Mexican leather trousers, with buttons clown the sides, and a steeple-crowned, broad-brimmed, dmb wool hat, altogether far superior to any servant I saw in the country; aml I think if it had not been for him I should not have undertaken tho journey. The reader will perhaps be shocked to hear that his name was Jesus, pronounced in Spanish 'Hezoos, by which latter appellation, to avoid "·hat might be considered profanity, I shall hereafter call him. SICK~lcSS AKD 2111:TL',Y. 199 CHAPTER XVI. SICKNESS AND MUTINY-ILLNESS OF CAPT.\lX J"Al'-CRJTICAL SlTUATrox-noucn N"URSINGDOLPHl:-.S - SUCCESSION OF YOLCAKOES - GULF OF KJCOYA - HARBOUR OF CALDERAANOTUER l"ATIE!-<T-llAClESDA OP SAN PELll'I'E-MOUSTAlN OF AGUAC.\.T£-" Z[LLESTHAL l'ATENT Sl:Ll!'-ACTING COLD A~B.LGAltA'IJON MACHINE "-GOLD MINES-VIEW FROM THE NOU~TAlN 'l'OP. Ox l\Ionday, tho twenty-second of January, two hours before daylight, "·e started for the port. 'Hezoos led the way, carrying before him all my luggage, rolled up in a baquette, being simply a cowhide, after tho fashion of the country. At daylight we heard behind us the clattering of horses' hoofs, and Don lllanuel de Aguila, with his two sons, overtook us. Before the freshness of the morning was past, we reached the port, and rocle up to the old hut, which I had hoped never to see again. Tho hammock was swinging in the same place. 'l.'he miserable rancho seemed clestincd to be the abode of sickness. In one corner lay Seiior D'Yriarte, my captain, exhausted by a night of fever, and unable to sail that day. Dr. Drivon was again at the port. Ile had not yet disembm·ked his machinery: in fact, the work was suspended by a mutiny on board tho English brig, the ringleader of which, as the doctor complained to me, was an American. I passed the day on the seashore. In one place, a little above high-water mark, almost washed by the waves, were rude wooden crosses, marking the graves of unhappy sailors who had died far from their homes. Rcttm1ing, I found at the hut Captain Jay, of the English brig, who also complained to me of the American sailor. 'l'hc captain was a young man, making his first voyage as master; his wife, ,Yhom he had married a week before sailing, accompanied him. He had had (I disastrous voyage of eight months from London; in doulJling Cape Horn, his crew were all frostbitten, and his spars carried away. ,vith only one man ou clock, ho had worked up to Guaya<]uil, where he incurred great loss of time and money in making repairs, aud shipped au entirely new crew. .\.t Acajutla, he found 1.hat his boats were not sufficient to land the doctor's machinery, and was obliged to wait until a raft could be constructccl. In the meantime his crew mutinied, and pm-t of them refu8Ccl to work. His wife was then at the doctor's hacienda; and I noticed that, while writing her a note ,Yith pencil, his •,unl.JU1·11ctl face was pale, and large 200 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERIC,I. drops of perspiration stood on his forehead. Soon after he threw himself into the hammock, and, as I thought, fell asleep; but in a few minutes I saw the hammock shake, and, remembering my own shaking there, thought it was at its old tricks of giving people the fever and ague; but very soon I saw that tho poor captain was in convulsions. Excepting Captain D'Yriarte, who was lying against the wall perfectly helvless, I ,ms the only man in the hut; and as there was danger of his throwing himself out of the hammock, I endeavoured to hold him in; but with one convulsive effort he threw me to the other side of the lrnt, and hung over the side of the hammock, with one hand entangled in the cords, and his head almost touching the ground. The old woman said that the devil had taken possession of him, and nm out of doors, screaming. Fortunately, this brought in a man whom I Imel not seen before, Mr. ,varbnrton;::· an engineer, ,Yho had come out to set up the machinery, and who was himself a machine of many horsepower, having a pair of shoulders that seemed constructed expressly for holding men in convulsions. At first he was so shocked that he did not know what to do. I told him that the captain was to be held, whereupon, opening his powerful arms, he closed them around the captain's with the force of a hydraulic press, turning the legs over to me. 'rhese legs were a pair of the sturdiest that ever supported a human body; and I verily believe that if the feet had once touched my ribs, they would have sent me through the wall of the hut. ·watching my opportunity, I wound the hrtmmock around his legs, and my arms around the hammock. In the meantime he broke lose from Mr. ,varburton's hug, who, taking the hint from me, doul.,led his part in with the folds of the hammock, and gave his clinch from the outside. The captain struggled, and, worming like a gigantic snake, slipped his head out of tho top of the hammock, and twisted the cords around his neck, so that we were afraid of his strangling himself. We were in utter despair, when two of his srtilors rushed in, who, being at home with ropes, extricated his head, sho,ed him back into the hammock, wrapped it around him as before, and I withdrew, completely exhausted. The two recruits were Tom, a regular tar of about forty, and the cook, a blrtck man, and particular friend of Tom, who called him "Darkey." 'l'om undertook the whole direction of securing thu captain; and, although Dr. Drivon and severn.l Indians came in, 'l'om's voice was the only one heard, and addressed only t.o "Darkey"- " Stand by his legs, Darkey !"-" Hold fast, Darkcy !"-" Steady, Darkey !" but all together could not hold him. Turniug on his face, • Died at Mazatlan about six months afterwards. ILLXESS 01' CAP'fAic, JAY, 201 and doubling himself iuside, he braced his back, and droye both legs th.rough the hammock, striking his feet violently against the ground; his whole body passed through. His struggles were dreadful. Suddenly the mass of bodies on the floor rolled against Captain D'Yriarte's led, which broke down with a crash, and, with a fever upon him, he was obliged to scramble out of the way. In the interval of one of the most violent struggles, we heard a strange idiotic noise, which seemed like an attempt to crow. The Indians who crowded the hut laughed; and Dr. Drivon was so indignant at their heartlessness, that he seized a club and drove them alJ out of doors. An old naked African, who had been a slaYe at Balize, and had lost his own language without acquiring much of any other, returned with a bunch of fe[\thers, which he wislied to stick in the captain's nose and set fire to, &'lying it was the remedy of his country; but the doctor showed him bis stick, and he retreated. The convulsions continued for three hours, dnring which time the doctor considered the C[\ptain's situation ycry critical. 'l'he old wonmn persisted that the devil was in him, and would not girn him up, and that he must die; and I could not but think of his young wife, who was sleeping a fow miles off, unconscious of the calamity that threatened her. 'l'he fit was brought on, as the doctor said, by anxiety and distress of mind occasioned by his unfortunate voyage, and particularly by the mutiny of his crew. At eleven o'clock he fell asleep, and now we learned the cause of the strange noise which had affected us so unpleasantly. 'l'om was just preparing to go on board the wssel, when the African ran down to the shore, and told him that the captain was nt the hut drnnk. Tom, being himself in that state, felt that it was his duty to look after the captain; but he had jnst bought a parrot, for wl1ich he had paid a dollar, and, afraid to trust him in other hands, hauled his baggy shirt a foot more out of his trousers, and thrust the pal'l'ot into his bosom, almost smothering it with his neckcloth. 'l'he parrot, indignant at this confinement, was driving his beak constantly into 'l'om's breast, which was scarified and covered with blood; and once, when Tom thought it was going too far, he put his hnnd inside and pinched it, which produced the extraordinary sounds we had heard. In a little while Tom and Darkcy got the Indians to relieve them, and went out to drink the captain's health. On their return they took their places on the ground, one 011 each side of their commander. I threw myself into the broken hammock; and Dr. Drivon, charging them, if the captain awoke, not to say anything that couhl agitate him, went off to another hut. 202 TRAVELS IN CEKTRAL A;\IERICA. It was not long before the captain, raising his head, called out, "·\Yhat tho devil are you doing with my legs i" which was answered by Tom's steady cry, " Hold on, Darkey i" Darkey and an Indian were holding the captain's legs, two Indians his arms, and Tom was spread over his body. The captain looked perfectly sensible, and utterly amazed at being pinned to the ground. "·where am Ii" said he. Tom ancl Darkey had agreed not to tell him what bad lmppened; but, after the most extraordinary lying on the part of 'l'om, while tho captain was looking at him and us in utter amazement, the poor follow became so entangled, that, swearing the doctor might stay and tell his own stories, he began where he and Darkey came in, and found the captain kicking in the hammock ; and tho captain was given to understand that if it had not been for him and Darkey he would have kicked his own bruins out. I relic-red Tom's story from some obscurity, and a general and noisy conversation followed, which was cut short by poor Captain D'Yriarte, who had not had a wink of sleep all night, and begged us to gi-re him a chance. The next evening I embarked on boanl " La Cosmopolita," a small goelette brig, and my first night on board ,ms not particularly agreeable. I was the only cabin passenger; but, besides the bugs that always infest an old vessel, I had in my berth mosquitoes, spiders, ants, and cockroaches. Yet there is no part of my tour upon which I look back with so much quiet satisfaction as this voyage on the Pacific. I had on board Gil l3las and Don Quixote in the original, and all clay I mt under an awning, my attention divided between them and the great range of gigantic volcanoes which stud the coast. Before this , became tedious we reached the Gulf of Papajayo, the only outlet by which the winds of the Atlantic pass over to the Pacific. The dolphin, the most beautiful fish that swims, played under our bows and stern, and accompanied us slowly alongside. But the sailors had no respect for his golden back. The mate, a murderous young Frenchman, stood for hours with a·harpoon in his lmncl, drove it into several, and at length brought one on board. The king of the sea seemed conscious of his fallen state; his beautiful colours faded, and he became spotted, and at last heavy and lustreless, like any other dead fish. ,ve passed in regular succession the volcanoes of San Salrndor, San Vice{lte, San :Miguel, Telega, ::iiomotombo, Managua, ~indiri, ::ifasaya, and Nicaragua, each one a noble spectacle, and all together forming n ~hain with which no other in the world can be compared; indeed, this coast has been described as "bristling with volcanic cones." For two days 11·e lay with sails flapping in sight of Cape Blanco, the upper headland of the Gulf of Nicoya. On the afternoon of the 31st wo ' I .J ilARBOUR OF CALDER.I.. 203 enterec1 the gulf. On a line with the point of the cape was an island of rock, with high, bare, and precipitous sides, and the top co,ercd with verdure. It was about sunset; for nearly an hour the sky and sea seemed blazing with the reflection of the departing luminary, and tho island of rocks seemed like a fortress with turrets. It was a glorious farewell view. I had pased my last night on the Pacific, and the highlands of the Gulf of Nicoya closed around us. Early in the morning we had tho tide in our favour, and very soon leaving the main body of the gulf, turned off to the right, and entered a beautiful little cove, forming the harbour of Caldera. In front was the range of mountains of Aguacato, on tho left the old port of Pont Arenas, and on the right the volcano of San Pablo. On the shore ,,as a long low house set upon piles, with a tile roof, and near it were throe or four thatched huts and two canoes. ". e anchored in front of the houses, and apparently without exciting the attention of a soul on shore. All tho ports of Central Americ:1 on the Pacific are unhealthy, but this "·as considered deadly. I had entered without :1pprchension cities where tho plague was raging, but hero, :1s I looked ashore, there was a deathlike stillness that was startling. To spare mo the necessity of sleeping at tho port, the captain sent the boat ashore with my servant, to procure mules with which I could proceed immediately to a hacienda two leagues beyond. In the aftemoon the captain took me ashore. At the first house we saw two candles lighted to burn at tho body of a dead man. All "·hom we saw were ill, and all complained that tho place wa, fatal to human life. In fact, it was almost deserted; and, notwithstanding its admnt.ages as a port, go.ernment, a few days afterward, issued an order for breaking it up, and removing back to the old port of Pont Atenas. The captain was still suffering from fever and ague, and would not on any account remain after dark. I was so rejoiced to find myself on shore, that if I had mot a death's head at e,ery step it wouM hardly have turned mo back. Determined not to lose sight of my friend, tho captain of tho port, with my luggage at my heels I walked down the beach for tho custom• house. It was :1 frame building, about 40 feet long, and stood at a little distance above high-water mark, on piles about 6 feet above ground. It was the gathering-place of different persons in the employ of tho government, ciyil and military, and of two or tln·co women employed hy them. 'l.'be military force consisted of the captain of the port and the soldier who boarded us, so that I had not much fear of being sent back at the point of the bayonet. )Iy host g:•vc me 201, TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. a, bedstead, "ll"ith a bull's hide for a, bed. It was [l warm night, and I placed it opposite a,n open door, a,nd looked out upon the wate1· of the gulf. The waves "·ere breaking gently upon the shore, and it was beautiful to see the Cosmopolita, riding quietly a,t her a,nchor, without even 'Hczoos or the luggage in her. At two o'clock in tho morning we rose, a,nd before three we started. The tide ,rns low, and for some dista,nce we rode a,long tho shore by moonlight. At daylight we overtook the courier sent to give advice of my coming; in an hour crossed tho river of Jesus Maria; and at seven o'clock stopped to breakfast a,t tho hacienda of the same name. While breakfasting, tho woman of the house told me of a, sick da,ughte1·, asked me for romedios, a,nd fomlly requested me to go in m1d see her. 'l'ho door opened from the shed, and all tho a,pertnres in the room "·ere carefully closed, so as to exclude oven a breath of air. Tho invalid fay in a bed in one corner, with a, cotton covering over it like a, mosquito. netting, but lower, and pinned close all around; rtnd when the mother raised the covering, I encountered a body of hot and unwholesome air that a,lmost overcame me. The poor girl hy on her back, with a cotton sheet wound tightly around her body; and already she seemed like one laid out for burial. She "·as not more tlmn eighteen; the fever had just left her, her eye still sparkled, but her face was pale, and covered with spots, scams, and creases of dirt. She was suffering from intermitting fever, that scourge which breaks down the constit11- tion and carries to the grave thousands of the inhabitants of Central America; and, according to 1he obstinate prejudice of the country, her face had not been washed for more than two months! I had often been disgusted with the long beards and unwashed faces of fever and ague subjects, and the ignorance and prejudice of the people on medical Sllbjects; in illustration of ,,hich Dr. DrivCm told me of a case of pmctice by an old quack wonmn, who directed her patient, a rich cattle proprietor, to be extended on the ground naked eycry morning, and a bullock lo be slaughtered over him, so that the blood could run ,rnrm upon his body. 'l'he man submitted to the operation more than a hundred times, and "·a,5 bathed with the blood of more than a hundred bullocks; afterward he underwent a much more disgusting process, riud, strange to say, he lived. But to return: in general my medical practice was confined to men, and with them I considered myself a powerful pmctitioner. I did not like prescribing for women; and in this case I struck at all the ~rejudices of the country, and cheapened my mcdic:il skill by dircctmg, first, tlmt the poor girl's face should be washed; but I saved myself sornewha,t by making n. strong point that it should be washed MINING OPERATIONS, 205 with warm water. Whether they thanked mo or not I do not know, hut I had my reward, for I saw a lovely face, and long afterward I rememberer! the touching expression of her eyes, as she turned toward me, and listened to tho advice I gave her mother. At ton we resumed out· journey. 'rhe road had been much improved lately, but the ascent was steep, wild, and rugged. As we toiled up a ravine, we hoard before us a loud noise, that sounded like distant thunder, but regular and continued, and becoming louder as we advanced; and at length we came out on a small clearing, and saw on the side of the mountain a neat frame building of two stories, with a light and graceful balcony in front; and alongside was the thundering machine which had startled us by its noise. Strangers from the other side of the Atlantic were piercing the sides of the mountain, and po1mding its stones into dust to search for gold. The whole range, the very ground which our horses spurned with their hoofs, contained that treasure for which man forsakes kindred and country. I rode up to the house and introduced myself to Don J nan Bardh, the superintendent, a German from Friesburg. It was about two o'clock, and excessively hot, The house was furnished with chairs, sofa, and books, and had in my eyes a delightfnl appearance; but tho view without was more so. The stream which turned the immense pounding-machine had made the spot, from time immemorial, a descansadera, or resting-place for muleteers. All around were mountains, and directly in front one rose to a great height, receding, and covered to the top with trees. Don Juan Bardh had been superintendent of tho Quebrada dol Ingonio for about three years. 'rhe Company which he represented ,vas called the Anglo Costa Rican Economical Mining Company, It had been in operation these three years without losing anything, "·hich was considered doing so well that it had increased its capital, and was about continuing on a larger scale. The machine, which had just been set up, was a new German patent, called a Machine Joi· exti·acting Gold by the Zillenthal Patent Self-acting Gold Amalgamation Process (I believe that I have omitted nothing), and its great value was, that it required no preliminary process, but by one continued and simple operation extracted tho gold from the stone. It was an immense wheel of cast-iron, by which tho stone, as it came from the mountain, was pounded into powder; this passed into troughs filled with water, and from them into a reservoir containing vases, where the gold detached itself from the other particles, and combined with the quicksilver with which tho vases were provided. 'l.'horc were several mines under Don Juan's charge, and aftot· 206 TR.ii. VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. dinner he accompanied me to that of Corrallio, "·hich was the largest, and, fortunately, lay on my road. After a hot ride of half an hour, ascending through thick woods, we reached the spot. According to the opinion of the few geologists who have visited that country, immeuse wealth lies buried in the mountain of Aguacate; and so far from being hidden, tho proprietors &'ty, its places are so well marked that all who search may find. The lodes or mineral veins run regularly north and south, in ranges of greenstono porphyry, with strata of basaltic porphyry, and average about 3 feet in width. In some places side-cuts or lateral excavations are made from east to west, and in others shafts arc sunk until they strike the vein. The first opening we visited was a side-cut 4 feet wide, and penetrating 240 feet before it struck tho lode; but it was so full of water that we did not enter. Above it was another cut, and higher still a shaft was sunk. We descended the shaft by a ladder made of the trunk of a tree, with notches out in it, until we reached the vein, and followed it with a candle as far as it was worked. It was about a yard wide, and the sides glittered-but it was not with gold; they were of quartz and feldspar, impregnated with sulphm-et of iron, and gold in such small particles as to be invisible to the naked eye. The most prominent objects in these repositories of wealth were naked workmen with pickaxes, bending and sweating under heavy sacks of stones. It was late in the afternoon when I came out of the shaft. Don Juan conducted me by a steep path up the side of the mountain, to a small table-land, on which was ::i. large building occupied by miners. The view was magnificent: below was an immense ravine; above, perched on a point, like an eagle's nest, the house of ::i.nother superintendent; and on the opposite side the great range of the mountains of Candelaria. I waited till my mules came up, and with many thanks for his kindness, b::i.de Don J u::i.n farewell . .As we continued ascending, eyery moment the view became more grand and be::i.utiful; and suddenly, from a height of 6,000 foot, I looked down upon the Pucific, the Gulf of Nicoy::i., and, sitting like ::i. bird upon the water, our brig, L::i. Cosmopolit::i.. And here, on the very highest points, in the wildest and most beautiful spots that ever men chose for their abodes, were the huts of the miners. The sun touched the sea, lighted up the surface of the water, and softened the 1'ugged mountains; it was the most beautiful scene I ever &'tW, and this loveliest view was the last; for suddenly it became dark, und very soon the darkest night I ever knew came on. As we descended, the woo~s were so thick th::i.t even in the daytime they shut out the light, and m some places the road was cut through steep hills higher than DESCENT FROM THE l\lOUNTA.IN. 207 our heads, and roofed over by the dense foliage. 'Hezoos was before me, with ::1, white hat nnd jacket, and bad ::1, white dog running by his side, but I could not see the outline of his figure. The road was steep but good, and I did not pretend to direct the mule. In one of the darkest passages 'Hezoos stopped, and, with a voice that made tho woods ring, cried out, "A lion, a lion ! " I was startled, but he dismounted and lighted a cigar. This was cool, I thought; but he relieved me by telling me that the lion was a different animal from the roarer of the African desert, small, frightened by ::1, shout, aud only ate children. Long as it seemed, our whole descent did not occupy tlu·ee hours, and at ten o'clock we reached the house in the Boca de la Montagna. It was shut, and all were asleep; but we knocked hard, and a man opened the door, and, before we could ask any questions, disappeared. Once inside, however, we mnde noise enough to wake everybody, and got corn for the' mules, and a light. There was a large room, open to all corners, with three bedsteads, all occupied, and two men were sleeping on the floor. 'rhe occupant of one of the beds, after eyeing me a few moments, -rncated it, and I took his place. The reader must not suppose that I am perfectly unscrupulous; he took all his bedclothes, viz. his clmmarro, with him. The bed and all its fmniture consisted of an untanned bull's hide. 208 'rRAV.1£1S IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER XVII. LA GARlT,\-ALAJUELA-A FRIES"DLY PEOl'LE-llEREDIA-RIO SEGU"SDO-COFFEE PLANTATlO!>'S OF SAN JOSE-THE SACRAMENT FOR THE IIYDiG- A HAPPY MEETING-TRAVELLING E)(llARRASS)lENTS--QUARTERS IN A CO"SVEST-SESiOJt CARILLO, CIIIEF OF STATE-VICJSSITUDES OF FOllTUNE-VlSIT TO CARTAGO-TRES RIOS-AN U"SEXI'ECTED ~IEETING-ASCENT OF 'l"UE VOLCA:SO OF CARTAGO-THE CRATER- VlE\V OF THE TWO SEAS-DESCE:ST-STII.OLL THROUGH CARTAGO-A DUR[AL-ANOTUER AT'f.ACK OF FEVER A:KD AGUE-A YAGAEO~DCULTIVATIOS OF COFFEE. Trrn next morning we ascended by a steep road to the top of a mvinc, where a long house stood across the road, so as to prevent ali passing except directly through it. It is called La Carita, and commands the road from the port to the capital. Officers arc stationed here to take an account of merchandise, and to examine passports. The one then in command had lost an arm in the service of his country, i. e. in a battle between his own town and another fifteen miles off, and the place was given to him as a reward for his patriotic services. At tho entry of Alajnela, I stopped to inquire for one bearing a name immortal in the history of the Spanish conquest. It was the name of Alvarado. Whether he was a descendant or not I do not know, nor did he; and strange to say, though I met several bearing that name, not one attempted to trace his lineage to the conqueror. Don Ramon Alvarado, however, was recommended to mo for qualities which allied him in character with his great namesake. He was the courier of the English Mining Company for Serapequea and the River l St. Juan, one of the wildest roads in all Central America. ' Next to the advantage of the sea voyage, my principal object in leaving Zonzonate was to acquire some information in regard to the canal route between the Atlantic and Pacific by means of the Lake of Nicaragua and the River San Juan, and my business with Alvarado was to secure him as a guide to the port of San Juan. In half an hour all these arrangements were made, the day fixed, and half the contract-money paid. There are four cities in Costa Rica, all of which lie within the space of fifteen leagues; yet each has a different climate and different productions. Including the suburbs, Alajuela contains a population of about 10,000. The plaza was beautifully situated, and the church, the cabildo, and the houses fronting it were handsome. '!'he latter I COFFEE PLANTATIOKS OF SAN Josi. 200 were Jong and low, with broad piazzas and large windows, having bal-- conics made of wooden bars. It was Sunday, and the inhabitants, cleanly dressed, were sitting on the piazzas, or, with doors wide open, reclining in hammocks, or on high-backed wooden settees inside. The women wero dressed like ladies, and some were handsome, and all white. A respectable-looking old man, standing in the door of one of tho best houses, called out "Amigo," "friend," and asked us who we were, whence we came, and whither we were going, recommending us to Goel at parting; and all along the street we were accosted in tho same friendly spirit. At a distance of three leagues we passed through Heredia without dismounting. I had ridden all day with a feeling of extraordinary satisfaction; and if such were my feelings, what must ha,e been those of 'Hezoos 1 Ile was returning to his country, with his love for it increased by absence aud hardship away from home. All the way he met old acquaintance and friends. He was a good-looking fellow, dashingly dressed, and wore a basket-hilted Peruvian sword more than six feet long. Behind him was strapped a valise of scarlet cloth, with black borders, part of the uniform of a Peruvian soldier. It would have been curious to remember how many times he told his story; of military service and two battles in Peru; of impressment for the navy and desertion; a voyage to Mexico, ancl his return to Gnatimala by land; and always concluded by inquiring about his wife, from whom lie had not heard since he left home, "la po bra" being regularly his last words. As we approached his home, his tenderness for la pobra increased. He could not procure any direct intelligence of her; but ouc good-natured friend suggested that she had probably married some one else, and that he would only disturb the peace of the family by his return. On the top of the ravine we cctme upon a large table-land covered with the rich coffee-plantations of San J osc. It was laid out into squares of 200 feet, enclosed by Jiving fences of trees bearing flowers, with roads GO feet wide; and, except the small horsepath, the roads, had a sod of unbroken green. Tho deep green of the coffee-plantations, the sward of the roads, and the vistas through the trees at all the cross-roads, were lovely; at a distance on each side were mountains, and iu front, rising above all, was the great Volcano of Cartago. It was about the same hour as when, the clay before, from the top of tho mountain of Aguacate, I had looked down into great ravines and over the tops of high mountains, and seen the Pacific Ocean. 'l'his was as soft as thnt was wild; and it addressed itself to other senses than the sight, for it was not, like the rest of Ccntml America, retrograding p 210 TRAVELS L:i' CENTRAL AMERICA. and going to ruin, but smiling as the rewurd of industry. Seven years before the whole plain was an open waste. At the encl of this tablc-luncl we suw Sun Jose on a phin below us. On the top of the hill we passed a house with an arch of flowers before the door, indicating that within lay one wuiting to receive the last sacrament before going to his finul account in another world. Descending, we saw at a distance a long procession, headed by a cross with the figure of the Saviour crucified. It approached with the music of violins and a loud chorus of voices, and was escorting the priest to the house of the dying man. As it approached, horsemen pulled off their hats and pedestrians fell on their knees. '\Ve met it near a narrow bridge ut the foot of the hill. The sun was low, but its last rays were scorching to the naked head. The priest was carried in a sedan chair. "\Ve waited till he passed, and taking advantage of a break in the procession, crossed the bridge, passed a long file of men, and longer of women, and being some distance uhead, I put on my hat. A fanatic fellow, with a scowl on his face, cried out, "Quita cl sombrero," "take off your hat." I unswered by spmring my horse, and at the same moment the whole procession was thrown into confusion. A woman darted from the line, and 'Hezoos sprang from his horse and caught her in his arms, and hugged and kissed her as much as decency in the public streets would allow. To my great surprise, the woman was only his cousin, and she told him that his wife, who was the principal milliner in the phce, was on before in the procession. 'Hezoos was beside himself; rn.n back, returned, caught his horse, and dragged the beast after him; then mounting and spurring, begged me to hurry on and let him go back to his wife. Entering the town, we passed a respectable-looking house, where fom· or five well-dressed women were sitting on the piazza. They screamed, 'Hezoos drove his mule up the steps, and throwing himself off, embraced them all around. After u few hurried words, he embraced them all over again. Some male friends attempted to huul him off, but he returned to the women. In fact, the poor fellow seemed beside himself, though I could not but observe that there was method in his madness; for, after two rounds with the very respectable old la.dies, he abandoned them, and dragging forward a very pretty young girl with his arms around her waist, and kissing her every moment, told me she was the apprentice of his wife; und though at every kiss he asked her questions about his wife, he clicl not wait for answers, and the kisses were repeuted faster than the questions. During all this time I sat on my horse looking on. Doubtless it was very pleasant for him, but I began to be imputicnt; seeing which, he tore himself uway, mountecl, and, accompuniecl by half-aI TR! VELLIKG Ei\IllARRASSi\IEK1'S. 211 dozen of his friends, he a.,,aain led the way. As we advanced his friends increased. It was rather vexatious, but I could not disturb him in the sweetest pleasures in life,-tbc welcome of friends after a long absence. Crossing the plaza, two or three soldiers of his old company, leaning on the railing of the quartel, cried out "companero," and, with the sergeant at their head, passed over and joined us. "' e crossed the plaza with fifteen or twenty in our suite, or rather in his suite, some of whom, particularly the sergeant, in compliment to him, were civil to me. While he had so many friends to welcome him, I had noue. In fact, I did not know where I should sleep that night. 'Hezoos had told me that there was an old chapiton, i.e. a person from Spain, in whose house I could have a room to myself, and pay for it; but, unfortunately, time had made its changes, and the old Spaniard had been gone so long that the occupants of his house did not know "hat bad become of him. I had counted upon him 11,;th so much certainty that I had not taken out my letters of recommendation, aud did not oven know the names of tho persons to whom they were addressed. •rhe cura was at his hacienda, and his house shut up; a padre who had been in the United States was sick, and could not receive any one; my servant's friends all recommended different persons, as if I had the whole town at my disposal; and principally they urged me to honour with my company the chief of the state. In the midst of this street consultation, I longed for a hotel at 100 dollars a-clay, and the government for paymaster. 'Hezoos, who was all the time in a terrible hurry, after an animated interlude with some of his friends, spurred his mule and hurried me back, crossed a corner of the plazn., turned down a street to the right, stopped opposite a small house, where he dismounted, nud begging me to do the same, in a moment the saddles were whipped off and carried inside. I was ushered into the house, and seated on a low chair in a small room, where a dozen women, friends of 'Hezoos and his wife, "ll"ere waiting to ,relcomc him to his home. He told me that he did not know where his house was, or that it had au extra room, till he learned it from his friends; and carrying my luggage into a little dark apartment, said that I could have that to myself, and that he, and his wife, and all his friends, would wait upon me, and that I could be more comfortal>le than in any house in San J os6. I was excessively tired, haviug made three days' journey in two, worn out with the worry of searching for a resting-place, and if T bad hecn yonnger, and had no character to lose, I should not have given myself any further trouble; but, unfortunately, the dignity of office might have been touched by remaining in the house of my P2 212 'l'ltA VBLS IN CENTRAL A)IERlCA. servant; and, besides, I could not move without running agaiust a woman; and, more than all, 'Hezoos threw his arms around any one he chose, and kissed her as much as he pleased. In the midst of ruy irresolution, "la pohra" herself arrived, and half the women in the proce~sion, amateurs of tender scenes, followed. I shall not attempt to describe the meeting. 'Hezoos, as in duty bound, forsook all the rest, and notwithstanding all that he had done, wrapped her little figure in his arms as tightly as if he had not looked at a woman for a month; and " la po bra" lay in his arms as happy as if there were no pretty cousins or apprentices in the world. All this was too mnch for me : I worked my way out of doors, and after a consultation with the sergeant, ordered my horse to be saddled, and riding a third time across the plaza, stopped before the convent of Don Antonio Castro. The woman who opened the door said that the padre was not at home. I answered that I would walk in and wait, and ordered my luggage to be set clown on the portico. She invited me inside, and I ordered the lnggage in after me. 'l'he room occupied nearly the whole front of the convent, and besides some pictures of saints, its only furniture was a large wooden table, and a long, highbaekecl, wooden-bottomed settee. I laid my pistols and spurs upon the table, and stretching myself upon the settee, waited to welcome the padre to his house. It was some time after dark when he returned. He was surprised, and evidently did not know what to do with me, bnt seemed to recognise the principle that possession is nine points of the law. I saw, however, that his embarrassment was not from want of hospitality, but from a belief that he could not make me comfortable. In. Costa Rica the padres are poor, and I afterward learned that there it is unusnal for a stranger to plant himself upon one. I have since thought that the I Padre Castro must have considered me particularly cool; but, at all events, his nephew coming in soon after, they forthwith procured me chocolate. At each encl of the long room was a small one, one occupied by the padre and the other by his uephew. The latter vacated his ; and with a few pieces from the padre's, they fitted me up so well, that when I lay down I congratulated myself upon my forcible entry; and probably before they had recovered from their surprise I was asleep. . My . . arrival was soon known, and the next moruinct I received several a mv1tatwns to the houses of residents-one from the lady of Don Manuel de Aguila; but I was so well pleased with the convent that I was not disposed to leave it. As a matter of course, I soon became known to all the foreign residents, who, however, were but four; :Messrs. Steipel and Squire, a German and au Englishman, associated in business; YIS11' TO CARTAGO. 2]3 Mr. ·w allenstein, Gorman; and the fourth was a countryman, Mr. Lawrence, from Middletown, Connecticut. All lived with ::iir. Steipel; and I had immediately a general invitation to make his house my home. In the afternoon I dined with the foreign residents at the house of Mr. Stoipel. This gentleman is an instance of the vicissitudes of fortune. He is a native of Hanover. At fifteen ho left college and entered the Prussian army; fought at Dresden and Leipsic; and at the battle of Waterloo received a ball in his brain, from which unfortunately, only within the month preceding, he lost the use of one eye. Disabled for three years by his wound, on his recovery, with three companions, he sailed for South America, and entered the Peruvian army, married a Hija de] Sol, Daughter of the Sun, tnrned merchant, and came to San J osc, where ho was then living in a style of European hospitality. I shall lose all reputation as a sentimental traveller, but I cannot help mentiouiug honourably every man who gave me a good dinner; and with this determination I shall offend the reader but once more. Early the next morning, accompanied by my countrym:m Mr. Lawrence, and mounted on a noble mule lent me by Mr. Steipol, I set off for Cartago. We left the city by a long, well-paved street, and a little beyond the subm·bs passed a neat coffee-plantation, ,vhich reminded me of a Continental villa. It was the property of a Frenchman, who died just as he completed it; but hi~ widow had provided another master for his house nnd father for his chiklron. On both sides wore mountains, and in front wa~ the great Volcano of Cartago. The fields were cultiva,ted with com, plantains, and potatoes. The latter, though indigenous, and now scattered all over Europe, is no longer the food of the natives, and but rarely found in Spanish America. The Cartago potatoes arc of good flavour, but not larger than a walnut, doubtless from the want of care in cultivating them. Entries ha,ve been found in the records of Cartago dated iu 1598, which show it to be the oldest city in Central America. Coming from San Jos6, its appearance was that of an ancient city. 'rhe churches were large and imposing; the houses had yard-walls as high as themselves; a,n\l its quiet was extraordinary. vVe rode up a very long street without seeing a single person, and the cross-streets, extcndiug to a, great distance both ways, wore desolate. A single horseman crossing at some distance was an object to fix our attention. · The d.iy before we had met at San Jose Dr. Bridley, the only foreign resident in Cartago, who had promised to procure a guide, and make arrangements for ascending the Volcano of Cartago; and we found 2H TRA YELS IN CENTRAL A~ERICA. that, besides doing all that he had promised, be was himself prepared to go with us. While dinner was preparing, ~fr. L. and I visited another countryman, Mr. LoYcl, a gentleman whom I had known in New York. After dinner we set out to ascend the volcano. Passing dowu the principal street, wo crossed in front of the cathedral, and immediately began to ascend. Very soon we reached a height which commanded a view of a river, a village, and an extensive valley not visible from the plain below. The sides of the volcano are par• ticularly favourable for cattle; and while the plains below were unappropriated, all the way up were potreros, or pasture-grounds, and huts occupied by persons who had charge of the cattle. Our only anxiety was lest we should lose our way. A few months before my companions had attempted to ascend, but, by the ignorance of their guide, got lost ; aml after wandering the whole night on the sides of the volcano, returned without reaching the top. As we ascended the tomporature became colder. I put on my poncha; before we reached our stopping-place my teeth were chattering, and before dismounting I had an ague. 'fhe situation was most wild and romantic, hanging on the side of au immense ravine ; but I would have exchanged its beauties for a blazing coal fire. The hut was the highest on the mountain, bllilt of mud, with no opening but the door and the cracks in the ,rnll. Opposite the door was a figure of tho Virgin, and on each side was a frame for a bed ; on one of them my friends spread the bear's skin, and tumbling me upon it, wrapped mo up in the poneha. I had promised myself a social evening; but who can be sure of au hour of pleasure 1 I was entirely unfit for use; but my friends made me some hot tea; the place was perfectly quiet; and, upon the whole, I had as comfortable a chill and fever as I ever experienced. Before daylight we resumed our journey; the road was rough and precipitous; in one place a tornado had swept the mountain, and the trees lay across the road so thickly as to make it almost impassable; we were obliged to dismount, and climb over some and creep under others. Beyond this we came into an open region, where nothing but cedar and thorns grew; and here I saw whortleberries for the first time in Central America. In that wild region there was a charm in seeing anything that was familiar to me at home, and I should perhaps have become sentimental, but they were hard and tasteless. As we rose we entered a region of clouds; very soon they became so thick that we could see nothing; the figures of our own party were barely distinguishable, and we lost all hope of any view from the top of the volca110. Grass still grew, and we ascended till we reached a belt of STROLL THROUGH CA.RTAGO. 215 barren sand and lava; and here, to our great joy, we emerged from the 1·egion of clouds, and saw the top of the volcano, withont a vapour upon it, seeming to mingle with the clear blue sky; and at that early hour tho suu was not high enough to play upon its top. Mr. Lawrence, who had exerted himself in walking, lay down to rest, and the doctor and I walked on. The crater was about two miles in circumference, rent and broken by time or some great convulsion; the fragments stood high, bare, and grand as mountains, and within were three or four smaller craters. ,v e ascended on the south side by a ridge running cast and west till we reached a high point, at which there was an immense gap in the crater impossible to cross. The lofty point on which we stood was perfectly clear, the atmosphere ,rns of transparent purity, and looking beyond the region of desolation, below us, at a distance of perhaps 2,000 feet, tbe whole country was covered with clouds, and the city at the foot of the volcano was invisible. By degrees the more distant clouds were lifted, and over the immense bed we saw at tbe same moment the Atlantic aud Pacific Oceans. This was the grand spectacle we had hoped but scarcely expected to behold. My companions had ascended tbo volcano several times, but on account of the clouds had only seen the two seas once before. '£he points at which they were visible were the Gulf of Nicoya and the harbour of San J nan, not directly opposite, but nearly at right angles to each other, so that we saw them without tuming the body. In a right line over the tops of the mountains neither was more than twenty miles distant, and from tho great height at which we stood they seemed almost at our feet. It is the only point in the world which commands a view of the two seas; and I ranked the sight with those most interesting occasions, when from tho top of Mount Sinai I looked out upon the Desert of Arabia, and from Mount Hor I saw the Dead Sea:~ ,ve returned to our horses, and found Mr. Lawrence and the guide asleep. We woke them, kindled a fire, made chocolate, and descended. In an hour we reached the hut at which we had slept, and at two o'clock Cartago. Toward evening I set out with :Mr. Love! for a stroll. '£ho streets were all alike, long and straight, and there was nobody in them. ,v e foll into one which seemed to have no end, and at some distance were intercepted by a prncossion coming down a cross street. It was headed by boys playing on violins ; and then came a small barrow tastefully <locoratod, and strewed with flowers. It was a bier crn:rying the body * [ ha,·e understood from several persons who have crossed the isthmus from Chagrcs to Panama, that there is no point on the road from which the two seas are visible. 216 TRA YELS CN CENTRAL AMEI\TCA. of a child to the cemetery. We followed, and passing it at the gate, entered through a chapel, at the door of which sat three or four men selling lottery tickets, one of whom asked us if we wished to sec the grave of our countryman. We assented, and he conductcd us to the grave of a young American whom I had known by sight, and several members of whose family I knew personally. He died about a yea1· before my visit, and his funeral was attended with mournful circun1- stances. The vicar refused him burial in consecrated ground. Dr. Bricllcy, who was the only European resident in Cartago, and at. whose house he died, rode over to San Jos6, and, making a strong point of the treaty existing lietwcen the United States and Central America, obtained an order from the government for his burial in the cemetery. Still the fanatic vicar, acting, as he said, under a higher power, refused. A messenger was sent to San Jose, and two companies of soldiers were ordered to the doctor's house to escort the body to the grave. At night men "'Ore stationed at its side to watch that it was not dug up and thr.own out. The next clay the vicar, with the cross and images of mints, and all the emblems of the church, and a large concourse of citizens, moved in solemn procession to the cemetery, and , formally reconsecrated the ground which Imel been polluted by the burial of a heretic. The grave is the third from the corridor. In the corridor, and in an honoured place among the principal dead of Cartago, by the body of another strnn.ger, an Englishman named I Baillie. The day before his death the alcalde was called in to draw his will, who, according to the customary form, asked him if he was a Christian. Mr. Baillie answered yes; and the alcalde wrote him Catolico Romano Apostolico Christiano. Mr. Baillie himself did not contemplate this; he knew the difficulty in the case of my countryman about six months before; and wishing to spare his friends a disagree• able, and, perhaps, unsuccessfnl controversy, had already indicated a particular tree under which he wished to be bmied. Before the will "·as read to him he died. His answer to the alcalcle was considered evidence of his orthodoxy; his friends did not interfere, and he was buried under the special direction of the priests, with all the holiest ceremonies of the Church. It ,rns the greatest clay ever known in Cart.-igo. The funeral was attended by all the citizens. 'l'hc procession started from the door of the church, headed by ,iolins and drums; priests followed, with all the crosses, figures of saints, and banners that had been accumulating from the foundation of the city. At th~ corncrn of the plaza and of all the principal streets, the processiou stopped to sing hallelujahs, io represent the joy in Heaven over a sinner that repents. 11.A::S:AGING A SEB.VAi\"T. 217 , vhilo standing in tho corridor we saw pass the man who had accompanied the bier, with the child in his arms. He was its father, and with a smile on his face ·l\'as carrying it to its grave. He was followed by two boys playing on violins, and others were laughing around, 'l'he child was dressecl in white, with a wreath of roses around its bead; and as it lay in its father's arms it did not seem dead, but ~Jeeping. The grave was not quite ready, and the boys sat on the heap of dirt thrown out, and played the violin till it was finished. The father then laid the child carefully in its final resting-place, with its head to the rising sun; folded its little hands across its breast, and closed its fingers around a small wooden crucifix; aud it seemed, as they thought it was, happy at escaping the troubles of an uncertain world. There were no tears shed; on the contrary, all were cheerful; and though it appeared heartless, it was not because the fathe1· did not love his child, but because he and all his friends had been taught to believe, and were firm in the conviution, that, taken away so young, it was transferred immediately to a better world. The father sprinkled a handful of dirt over its face, the grave-digger took his shovel, in a few moments the little grave was filled up, and, preceded by the boy playing on his violin, we all went away together. The next morning, with great regret, I took leave of my kind friends, and returned to San Jose. It was my misfortune to be the sport of other men's wives. I lost the best servant I had in Guatimala, because his wife was afraid to trust him with me; nnd on my return I found 'Hczoos at the convent waiting for me. While putting my things in order, without looking me in the face, he told me of the hardships his wife, "la pobra," had suffered during his absence, and how difficult it was for a married woman to get along without her husband. I saw to what he was tending; and feeling, particularly since the recurrence of my fever and ague, the importance of having a good servant in the long journey I had before me, with the selfishness of a traveller I encouraged his vagabond propensities, by telling him that in a few weeks he would be tired of home, nnd would not have so good an opportunity of getting away. This seemed so sensible, that he discontinued his hints, and went off contented. At three o'clock I felt uncertain in regard to my chill, but, determined not to give way, dressed myself, and went to dine with Ur. 8tcipel. Before sitting clown, the blueness of my lips, and a tendency to use superfluous syllables, betrayed me; and my old enemy shook me all the way back to the convent, and into bed. Fever followed, and I Jay in bed all next day, receiving many visits at the door, and a 218 'l'HAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, few inside. Ono of the latter was from 'Hezoos, who retumcd stronger than before, and, coming to the point, said that he himself was anxious to go with mo, but his wife would not consent. I felt that if she had taken tho field ugainst me, it was all over; bnt told him that he had made a contract, and was 11lready ove1paid j and sent her a pair of gold earrings, to keep her quiet. For four days in succession I had a recurrence of chill and fever. Every kindness was shown me in the convent,-friends visited me, and Dr. Bridley came over from Cartago to attend me ; but withal I was desponding. The day fixed for setting out with Alvarado arrived, It was impossible to go ; Dr. Bl'idley told me that it would be nnwise, while any tendency to the disease remained, to undertake it. There were six days of desert travelling to the port of San J nan, without a house on the road, but mountains to cross and rivers to ford. The whole party was to go on foot except myself; four extra men would be needed to pass my mule over some diflicu lt places, and there was always more or less rain. San Juan was a collection of miserable huts, and from that place it was necessary to embark in a buugo for ten or fifteen days on an unheil-lthy river. Besides all this, I had the altemative to return by the Cosmopolita to Zonzonate, or to go to Guatimala by land, a joumey of 1,200 miles, through a count1·y destitute of accommodations for tmvellers, and dangerous from the convulsions of civil war. At night, as I lay alone in the convent, and by the light of a small candle saw the bats flying along the roof, I felt gloomy, and would have been glad to be at home. Still I could not bem· the idea of losing all I came for. The landroute lay along the coast of the Pacific, and for three clays was the same as to the port. I determined to go by land, but, by the advice of Dr. Briclley, to start in time for the vessel ; and, in the hope that I should not have another chill, I bought two of the best mules in San J os6, one being that on which I had ascended the Volcano of Cartago, and the other a macho, not more than half broke, but the finest animal I ever mounted. To return to 'Hezoos, The morning after I gave him tho earrings he had not come, but sent word that he had the fever and ague. The next clay he had it much worse; and, satisfied that I must lose him, I sent him word that if he would procure me a good suhstitutc, I would release him. This raised him from bed, and in the afternoon he came with his substitute, who had very much the air of being the first man he had picked up in the street. His dress was a pair of cotton trousers, with a shirt outside, and a high, bell-cro,rnecl, nal'l'ow-brimmecl black straw hat; and all that he had in the world was on his back. A NEW SERVAN1', 219 His hair was cut very close, except in front, where it bung in long locks o,cr his face; in short, he was the beait ideal of a Central American vagabond. I did not like his looks, but I was at the time under the influence of fever, and told him I could give him no answer. He came again the next day, at a moment when I ,muted some service; and by degrees, though I never hirod him, he quietly engaged me as his master. The morning before I left, Don Augustin Gutierres called upon me, and, seeing this man at the door, expressed his surprise, telling me that he was the town blackguard, a drunkard, gambler, robber, and assassin; that the first night on the road he would rob, and perhaps mmder me. Shortly after, l\Ir. Lawrence entered, who told me that he had just heard the same thiug. I discharged him at once, and apparently not much to his surprise, though he still continued round the convent, as he said, in my employ. It was very important for me to set out in time for the vessel, and I had but that day to look out for another. 'Hezoos was astonished at the changes time had made in the character of his friend. He said that he had known him when a boy, and had not seen him for many years till the day he brought him to me, when he had stumbled upon him in the street. Not feeling perfectly released, after a great deal of running, he brought me another, whose name was Nicolas. In any other country I should have called him a mulatto; but in Central America there are so many different shades that I am at a loss how to designate him. He was by trade a mason. 'Hezoos had encountered him at his work, and talked him into a desire to see G uatimala and l\Iexico, and come back as rich as himself. He presented himself just as he left his work, with his shirtsleeves rolled up above his elbows, and his trousers above bis knees: a rough diamond for a valet; hut he was honest, could take care of mules, and make chocolate. I did not ask more. He was married, too; and, as his wife did not interfere with me, I liked him the better for it. 220 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER XVIII. DI:PARTURE FOR GUATDfALA-ESPARZA-TOWN OF COSTA RICA-Tl!E BARRANCA-WILD SCENERY-HACIENDA OF AR ,\NJUF.Z-UlYER. LAGAf\TOS-CERROS OF COLLITO-JIERDS OF U£ER-S.\NTA ROSA-JJON JU,\N Josi::: BONILLA-AN }~AI\TllQUAKE-A CATTLE 1-'ARMllAGASES-GUANACASTl:-AN ,\GREEA BLE WELCO)lE-DELLE OF GUASACASTE-l'LEASAJ,;'1 LODGINGS-CORDILLERAS-VOLCANOES OF RIKCON AND OROS l-lIACIENDA OF SAS TERESA -SUNSY.:T VlEW-"l'llE PACLFJC A.GAIN. 0::. the thirteenth day of February I mounted for my journey to Guatimala. My equipage was rcducccl to articles of the last necessity: a hammock of stripccl cotton cloth laid over my pellon, a pair of alforgas, and a poncha strapped on behind. Nicolas had strung across his alvarda a pair of leather cohines, in shape like buckets, with the inner side flat, containing biscuit, chocolate, sausages, and dolces, and in front, on the pommel, my wearing apparel rolled up in an oxhide, after tho fashion of the country. During my whole stay at the convent the attentions of the paclre were unremitted. Besides the services he actually rendered me, I have no doubt he considers that he saved my life; for during my sickness he entered my room while I was preparing to shave, and made me desist from so dangerous an operation. I washed my face by stealt.h, but his kindness added another to the list of obligations I was alreacly uncler to the pad.res of Central America. I felt great satisfaction at being able once more to resume my journey, pleased with the lightness of my equipage, the spirit of my mules, and looked my journey of 1,200 miles boldly in the face. All at once I heard a clattering behind, and Nicolas swept by me on a foll run. My macho was what was called espantoso, or scary, and started. I had very little strength, and was fairly run away with. If I had bought my beasts for racing I should have had no reason to complain; but, unluckily, my sacldle turned, and I came to the ground, fortunately clearing the stirrups, and the beast ran, scattering on the road, pistols, holsters, saddle-cloths, and saddle, and continued on bare-backed toward the town. 'l'o my great relief, some muleteers. iutercepted him, and saved my credit as a horseman in San Jose. \Ye were more than an hour in recovering scattered articles and repairing broken trappings. For three days my road was the same that I had travelled in entering Costa Rica. The fourth morning I rose without r,ny recur- WILD SCENERY. 221 rcncc of fever. Mr. La,uencc had kindly borne me company from San J ose, and "·as still with me; he had relieved me from all trouble, and had made my journey so easy and comfortable that, instead of being \\·earied, I was recruited, and abarnloned all idea of returning by sea. At seven o'clock we started, and in half an hour reached Esparza. From this place to Nicaragua, a distance of 300 miles, the road lay through a wilderness; except the frontier town of Costa Rica, there were only a few straggling haciendas, twenty, thirty, ancl forty miles apart. In half an hour we crossed the Barranca, a broad, rapid, and beautiful river, but which lost in my eyes all its beauty, for here Mr. Lawrence left me. Since the clay of my arrival at San Jose he had been almost constantly with me, had accompanied mo in every excursion, and during my sickness had attended me constantly. " ' e exchanged adieus from the backs of our mules, and, not to be sentimental, lighted our cigars. I was again setting out alone. I had travelled so long with companions or in ships, that when the moment for plunging into the wilderness came, my courage almost failed me. And it was a moment that required some energy ; for we struck off immediately into one of the wildest paths that I met on the whole of that desolate journey. 'l'hc trees were so close as to darken it, and the branches so low that it was necessary to keep the head constantly bent to avoid hitting them. Tho noise of the locusts, which had accompanied us since we reached the mountain of Aguaoatc, here became startling. Very soon families of monkeys, walking heavily on the t ops of the trees, distmbed these noisy tenants of the woods, and sent them flying around us in such swarms that '11'0 were obliged to beat them off with onr hat~. 1Iy macho snorted and pnllecl violently on the bit, dragging mo against the trees; ancl I could not help thinking, if this is the outset, what will be the end 1 ,ve continued in the woods till about two o'clock, when, turning off by a path to the right, we reached a clearing, on one side of which was the hacienda of Aranjucz. 'fhe entrance to the house was by a laclcler from the outside, nncl underneath was a sort of store-house. It was occupied by a major-domo, a Mestitzo, and his wife. Near it was the kitchen, where the wife and another woman were at work. The majo-domo was sitting on tho ground doing nothing, and two able-bodied men were helping him. After dinner J led the mules to a stream, on the banks of which were iufts of young gmss, and while I was sitting hero t,wo wild I 222 TRAVELS lK CENTRAL AMERICA, turkeys flew over my head and lighted on a tree near by. I sent Nicolas for my gun, and soon had a bird large enough for a household dinner, which I sent immediately to the house to be converted into provender. At sundown I returned, and then discovered a deficiency in my preparations, which I felt during the whole journey, viz. of canclies. A light was manufactured by filling a broken clay vessel with grease, and coiling in it some twisted cotton, with one encl sticking out auout an inch. 'l'he workmen on the hacienda took advantage of the light, and brought out a pack of cards. The wife of the major-domo joined them, and seeing no chance of a speedy termination of the game, I undressed myself and went to bed. When they finished, the woman got into a bed directly opposite mine, and before lying down lighted another cigar. The men did the same on the floor, and till the cigars went out continued discussing the game. The major-domo was already asleep in tho hammock. All night the wife of the major .. domo smoked, and the men snuffled and snored. At two o'clock I rose and went out of doors. The moon was shining, and the freshness of the morning afr was grateful. I woke Nicolas, and paying the majordomo as he lay in his hammock, at three o'clock we resumed our journey. I was charmed with this place when we reached it, and disgusted when we left. 'l'he people were kind, and of as good disposition as the expectation of pay could make them, but their habits were intolerable. The fre~hncss of the moming air restored my eciuauimity; the moon shed a glorious light over the clearing, and lighted up the darkness of the forest. 1Ve heard only the surge of monkeys, as, disturbed by onr noise, they moved on the tops of the trees. At eight o'elock we reached the river Lagartos, breaking rapidly over a bed of white sand and gravel, clear as crystal, and shaded by trees, the branches of which met at the fording-place, and formed a complete arbour. ,ve dismounted, took off the saddles from our mules, and tied them to a tree, kincllccl a fire on the bank, and breakfasted. Wild scenes had long lost the charm of novelty, but this I would not have exchanged for a dejeuuer a la fourchette at the best restaurant of Paris. The wild turkey was not more than enough for my household, which consisted of Nicolas. Resuming our journey, we travelled all day, and as the sun was getting low, we came out into a large clearing, on one side of which stood the hacienda of Santa Rosa. 'l'he house stood on the right, and directly in front, against the side of a hill, was a large cattle-yard, enclosed by a hard clay wall, divided into three parts, and filled with cows and calves. On the left was au almost boundless plain, interI ....... AN EARTHQUAKE. 223 spersed with groves of trees; and as we rode up a gentleman in the yard sent a servant to open the gate. Don Juan Jose Bonilla met me at the porch, and before I had time to present my letter, welcomed me to Santa. Rom. Don Juan was a native of Cartago, a gentleman by birth and education, and of one of the oldest families in Costa Rica. He had travelled over his own country, and what was very unusual in that region, had visited the United States, and though labouring under the di&,dvantage of not speaking the language, spoke with great interest of our institutions. He had been an active member of the Liberal party; had laboured to carry out its principles in the administration of the government, and to save his country from the disgrace of falling back into despotism. He had been persecuted, heavy contributions had been laid upon his property, and fom years before he had withdr,,wn from Cartago and retired to this hacienda. But political animosity never dies. A detachment of soldiers was sent to arrest him, and, that no suspicion might be excited, they were sent by sea, and landed at a port on the Pacific within the bounds of his own estate. Don J nan received an intimation of their approach, and sent a servant to reconnoitre, who returned with intelligence that they were within half a clay's march. He mounted his horse to escape, but near his own gate was thrown, and his leg badly broken. He was carried back insensible, and when the soldiers arri,·ed they found him in bed; but they made him rise, put him on horseback, hurried him to the frontiers of the state, and left him, commnnica(.ing to him his sentence of banishment, and death if he returned. The boundary-line of the state of Costa Rica is a river in the miclst of a wilderness, and he was obliged to travel on horseback to Nicaragua, a journey of four clays. He had never recovered the use of his leg, which was two or three inches shorter than the other. He remained two years in exile; and on the election of Don Manuel de Aguila us chief of the st..-.te, returned. On the expulsion of Don l\Ianuel he retiree! again to his hacienda., and was then busily engaged in making repairs for the reception of his family; but he did not know at what moment another order might come to expel him from his home. ,Vhilc sitting at the supper-table we heard a noise over our heads, which seemed to me like the opening of the roof. Don Juan raised his eyes to the ceiling, ancl suddenly startccl from his chair, threw hiH arms around the neck of a scrYant, and with the fearful words "temblor!" "temblor!" "an earthquake!" "an earthquake!" all rushed for the doors. I sprang from my ch,lir, made one bound across the room, anrl cleared the pinza. The earth rolled like the 1,itching f a ship in a heavy sea. .Iy step was high, my feet barely touched I TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. the ground, and my arms were thrown up 'involuntarily to save myself from falling. I ,rns the last to start, but, once under way, I was the last-to stop. I-I alf way across the yard I stumbled 0Yor a man on his knees, and fell. I neYer felt myself so feeble a thing before. At this moment I heard Don J nan calling to me. He was leaning on tho shoulder of his servant, with his face to the door, crying to me to come out of the house. It was pitchy dark; within was the table at which we had sn.t, with a single candle, the light of which extended far enough to show a few of the kneeling figures, with their faces to the door. We looked anxiously in, and waited for the shock which ehould prostrate the strong walls, and lay the roof on the ground. There was something awful in our position, with our faces to the door, shunning the place which at all other times offers shelter to man. The shocks were continued perhaps two minutes, during which time it required an effort to stand firm. Tho return of the earth to steadiness was almost as violent as the shock. ,v e waited a few minutes after tho bst vibration, when Don J nan said it was o,er, and, assisted by his serrnnt, entered the house. I had been tho last to leave it, but I was the last to return; and my chair lying ,vith its back on the floor, gave au intimation of the haste with which I had decamped. The houses in Costa Rica are the best in the country for resisting those shocks, being, like the others, long and low, and built of adobes, or unch·icd bricks, two feet long and one broad, made of clay mixed with straw to give ndhesion, and laid "·hen soft, wiih upright posts bet\l·ecn, so tlrn.t they arc dried by the sun into one mass, which moves with the surface of the earth. Early in tbe morning two horses were at the door, and two servants in attendance for a ride. Don J mm mounted the same horse which he had ridden in his exile, and was attended by the same servants. Heretofore I had always heard constant comphints of serrnnts, and, to do them j usiice, I think they are the worst I eyer knew; but Don Juan's were the best in t':e world, and it was endent tha.t they thought he ,rns the best master. 'l'he estate of Don J nan covered as much ground as a Gorman principality, containing 200,000 acres, and was bounded on one side, for a long distance, by the Pacific Ocean. But a small portion of it was cultivated, not more than enough to raise maize for the workmen, and the rest was a roaming-ground for cattle. More than 10,000 were wandering oyer it, almost as wild as the elect, and never seen except as they crossed a path in the woods, or at the season of lazoing them, for the purpose of taking an account of the increase. I had set out on this long journey without any cargo-mule, from the ' TRA VELLUiG IN DARKNESS. 225 difficulty of procuring one that could keep pace with the ridingbeasts; but we had felt the inconvenience of being encumbered with lnggagc; and, besides Don Juau·s kindness to me at his house, he furnished me with one which he had broken expressly for his own use in rapid journeys between Cartago and the hacienda, and which he warranted me, with a light load, would trot and keep up with mine. Late in the afternoon I left his hospitable dwelling. Don J nan, with his deaf and dumb boy, accompanied me a league on the way, when we dismounted and took leave of each other. My new mule, like myself, was very reluctant to leave Don Juan, and seemed to have a sentiment that she should never see her old master again. Indeecl it was so difficult to got her along, that Nicolas tied her by the halter to his mule's tail, after a manner common in the country, and thus leading her along, I followed at her heels. 'l'hc deer were more numerous than I have yet seen them, an<l. I now looked at them only as animating a beautiful landscape. At dark we began to have apprehensions about the road. There was a difficult mountain-pass before us, and Nicolas wanted to stop and wait till the moon 1·ose ; but as that would clenmgo the journey for the next clay, I pushed on for more than an hour through the woods. The mules stumbled along in the dark, and very soon we lost all traces of a path ; while trying to find it, we heard the crush of a falling tree, which in the darkness sounded appalling, and made us hesitate to enter the woods. I determined to wait for the moon, and dismounted. Peering into the darkness, I saw a glimmering light on the left. We shouted with all our strength, and were answered by a pack of barking dogs, aud moving in that direction, rnached a hut where three or four workmen were lying on the ground, who were at first disposed to be m01Ty and impertinent when we aske<l. for a guide to the next hacienda; but one of them recognised my cargo-mule, said that he bad known it since be was a child (rathe1· doubtful praise of my new purchase), and was at length induced to. make us an offer of his services. A horse was brought, large, wild, and furious, as if nernr bitted ; snorting, rearing, and almost rnakiug the grnun<l. shake at every tread ; and before the rider was fairly on his buck he was tearing in the dark across tho plain. Making a wide sweep, he returned, and the guide, releasing the cargo-mule from that of Nicolus, tic<l. her to the tail of his horse, and then led the way. Even with the drag of ~le cargo-mule it was impossible for him t0 mo<l.erate his pace, and we "·ere obliged to follow ata most unhappy rate It was the first piece of bad road we hacl met with, having many sharp turns, and ascents and descents, broken and stony. Fortunately, while we were in -the woods, the moon rose, touched with a silvery Q 226 'l'IlA VELS IK CE:NTRA.L All1EUICA, light the tops of the trees, and when we reached the bank of the river it "·as almost as light as day. Here my guide left me, and I lost all confidence in the moon, for by her deceitful light I slipped into his hand a gold piece instead of a silver one, without either of us knowing it. As we ascended the bauk after crossing the stream, the hacienda was in full sight. The occupants were in bed, but Don Manuel, to whom I was recommended by Don Juan, rose to receivo me. At daylight the next morning, as the workmen on the hacienda were about going to work, we set off again. In an hour we heard the sound of a horn, giving notice of the approach of a drove of cattle. We drew up into the woods to let them pass, and they came with a cloud of dust, the faces of the drivers covered, and would have trampled to death anything that impeded their progress. Laie in the afternoon we came into a broad avenue and saw marks of wheels. At dusk we reached the river which runs by the suburbs of Guanacaste, the frontier town of Costa Rica. 'rhe pass was occupied by an ox-cart, with four stubborn oxen, which would not go ahead and could not go back, '\Ve were detained half an hour, and it was dark when we entered. ·we passed through the plaza, before the door of tho church, which was lighted up for vespers, and rode to a house at which I had been dirncted to stop. Nicolas went in to make preliminary inquiries, and returning, told me to dismount, and unloaded the luggagemule. I went in, took off my spurs, and stetchecl myself on a bench. Soon it struck me that my host wns not particularly glad to see me. Several chilcl ren came in and stared, and then ran back into another room ; nnd in a few miuutes I received tho compliments of the lady of the house, aml her regret that she could not accommodate me. I was indignant at Nicolas, "·ho had merely asked whether such a person lived there, and without more ado had sent me in. I left the house, and with the halter of my macho iu one hand nncl spurs in the other, and Nicolas following with tho mules, sought the house of the commandant. I found him standing on the piazza, with the key in his hand, and all his household stuff packed up outside, only waiting till tho moon rose to set out for another post. I believe he regretted that he could not accommodate me, nor could he refer me to any other house; but he sent his servant to look for one, and 1 "·aited nearly au hour, up for a bidder. • In the mean time I made inquiries about my road. I did not wish to continue on the direct route to :N"icaragna, but to go first to the port of San Juan on the Pacific, tho proposed terminntiou of the canal to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. 'l'he commandant A rLEASAN'r WELCOME. 227 1·egretted that I had not come one day sooner. He mentioned a fact of which I was aware before, that l\Ir. Bailey, an English gentleman, had been employed by the government to survey the canal route, and had resided some time at the post, and added that since his departure it was perfectly desolate ; no one ever visited it, not a person in tho })lace knew the road to it, and, unluckily, a man who had been in Mr. Bailey's employ had left that morning for Nicaragua. l\Iost fortunately, on inquiry, the man was found to be still in the place, and he, too, intended setting out as soon as the moon rose. I had no inducement to remain; nobody seemed very anxious for the honour of my company, and I would have gone on immediately if the mules had been able to continue; but I made an arrangement wit.h him and his son to wait t ill three in the morning, then to conduct me to the port, and thence to Nicaragua. At length the commandant's servant returned and conducted me to a ho11se with a little shop in front, where I was received by an old lady with a bueuos nochcs that almost sur1)l·iscd me into au idea that I was welcome. I entered through the shop, and passed into a parlour which contained a hammock, au interlaced bedstead, and a very neat catre with a gauze mosquito netting, and pink bows at the corners. I was agreeably disappointed with my posada, and while conversing with the old lady, was dozing over a cup of chocolate, when I heard a lively voice at the door, and a young lady entered, with two or three young men in attendance, who came up to the table in front of me, and throwing back a black mant.illa, bade me buenos noches, put out her hand, said that she had heard in church that I was at her house, and was so glad of it; no strangers ever came there; the place was completely out of the world, very <lull, &c. &c. I was so smprised that I must have looked very stupid. She was not regularly handsome, but her mouth and eyes were beautiful; and her manner was so different from the cold, awkward and bashful air of her countrywomen, so much like the frank and fascinating welcome which a young lady at home might extend to a friend after a long absence, that if the fable had not been between us I could have taken her in my arms and kissed her. I pulled up my shirt collar, and forgot all my troubles and perplexities. 'l'hough living in thftt little remote town, like young ladies in large cities, she had a fancy for strangers, which at that time I regarded as a delightful trait of character in a woman .• Her every-day beaux had no chance. At first they were very civil to me, but they became short and crusty, and, very much to my satisfaction, took Lhemsclves off. It was so long since 1 had felt the least interest in a woman, t.hat I gave myself a benefit. '!.'he simplest stories of other countries and other people Q2 228 TRAVELS IN CEc<TRAL AMERICA. were to her romance, and hcl' eye kindled as she listened ; soon the tmnsition came from facts to feelings, and then that highest earthly pleasure, of being lifted abo,·e every-day thoughts by the enthusiasm of a high-minded girl. \Vo sat up till twelve o'clock. The mother, who at first had wearied me, I found exceedingly agreeable; indeed, I had seldom known a more interesting old lady; for she pressed me to remain two or three days and rest; said the place was dull, but that her daughter would try to make it agreeable ; and her daughter said nothing, but looked unutterable things. All pleasure is fleeting. Twelve o'clock came, an unprecedented hour, for that country. My ordinary prudence in looking out for a sleeping-place had not deserted me. Two little boys had taken possession of the leather bed; the olcl lady had retired ; the beautiful little cartaret remained unoccupied, and the young lady withdrew, telling me that this was to be my bed. I do not know why, but I felt 1111easy. I opened the mosquito-net. In that country beds arc not used, and an oxhide or mat, often not so clean as it might be, is thcsubstitutc. This was a mat, very fine, and clean as if perfectly new. At the head was a lovely pillow with a pink muslin covering, and over it a thin white pillow-case with a bewitching ruffle. Whosecheek had rested on that pillow 1 I pulled off my coat, walked up and down the room, and waked up one of the boys. It was as I supposed. I lay down, but could not sleep, and determined not to continue my journey the next day. At three o'clock the guide knocked at the door. The mules were already saddled, Bnd Nicolas was putting on the luggage. I had often clung to my pillow, but ncyer as I did to that pink one with it& ruffled border. I told Kicolas that the guide must go home aml wait another day. 'l'he guide refused. It was the young man; his father had already gone, and had ordered him to follow. Very soon I heard a light footstep, and a soft voice expostulating with tho guide. Indignant at his obstinacy, I ordered him away; but very soon I J"Cflected that I could not procure another, and might lose the great object I had in view in making this long journey. I called him back, and attempted to bribe him; but his only answer was, that his father had started at the rising of the moon, and ordered him to follow. At length it was arranged that he should go and overtake his father and brinf( him back; but perhaps his father would not come. I was pcrtinrtcions until I carried the point, and then I was more indifferent. After all, why should I wait i Nicolas said we could get our clothes washed in Nicaragua. I walked out of doors, and resolved that it was I I I r A GRAZI!\G llACIJ.;NDA, 229 folly to lose tho chance of examining a canal route for the belle of Guanacaste. I hurried through my preparations, and bade her, I may s,iy, an affectionate farewell. '!.'here is not the least chance that I shall ever sec her again. Living in a secluded town, unknown beyond the borders of its unknown state, between the Andes and Pacific Ocean, probably she is already the happy wife of some worthy townsman, and has forgotten tho stranger who owes to her some of the happiest moments he passed in Central America. It ,rns now broad daylight. It was very rare that I had left a place with so much regret; but I turned my sorrow into anger, and \1-rcaked it upon Nicolas and the guide. 'l'ho wind was very high, and, swooping over tho great plain, raised such clouds of dust as made riding both disagreeable and difficult. '£his ought to have had some effect in restoring my equanimity, but it did not. All <lay we had on our right the grand range of Cordilleras, ancl crowning it at this point the great volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi. From thence a vast plain, over which the wind swept furiously, extended to the sea. At one o'clock we came in sight of the hacienda of Santa Teresa, standing on a great clcmtion, and still a long way before u~. 'l'ho hacienda was the pro• perty of Don Augustin Gutierres of San J os6, and, with two others, was under the charge of his son Don 1fonuel. A letter from his father had informed him of my coming, and he received me as an old acquaintance. The situation of the house was finer than that of any I had seen. It was high, and commanded a view of an immense plain, studded with trees in groups and in forest. 'Ihe ocean was not visible, but we could see the opposite coast of the Gulf of Nicoya, and the point of the port of Cnlcbra, the finest on the Pacific, only three and a half leagues distant. '£ho haciendit contained 1,000 mares and 400 horses, more than 100 of which were in sight from the door. It was grand enough to girn the owner ideas of empire. '£oward evening I counted from tho door of the house seventeen deer, and Don 1fauuol told me that he had a contract for furnishing 2,000 skins. In the season a good hunter gets twenty-five a-clay. Even tho workmen will not eat them, and they arc only shot for the hide and horns. Ho had forty workmen, and an ox was killed every clay. Near tho house was an artificial lake, more than a mile in circumference, built as a drinking-place for cattle. And yet tho proprietors of thoEo haciendas are not rich; the ground is worth absolutely nothing. The whole value is in the stock; and allowing two pounds a head for tho horses and mares would probably give the full value of this appa• ren tly magni fi ccn t estate. Hero, too, I could have passed a week with great s:itibfaction, l.,ut 230 TRAVELS IN CEN'l'R.\L AMERICA, the next morning I resumed my journey. Though e:1rly in the dry season, the ground was parched, and the streams were dried up. "\Vo carried a large calabash with water, and stopping under the shade ol: a tree, turned our mules out on tho plain and breakfasted. I was riding in advance, with my ponch:1 flyiug in the wind, when I saw :1 drove of cattle stop and look wildly at me, and then rush furiously toward me. I attempted to nm, but, remembering the bull-fights at Guatim:1la, I tore off my poncha, and had just time to get behind a high rock as the whole herd darted by at their full speed. W c continued our route, from time to time catching glimpses of the Pacific, till ,rn roached a clear, open place, completely protected from the wind, and called tho Boca of the ~fountain of Nicaragua. A large caravan had already encamped, and among the muleteers Nicolas found acquaintances from San Jose. Their cargoes consisted of potatoes, sweet bread, and dolcos for Kicaragua. Towards evening we wound for a short distance among the hills that enclosed us, ascended a slight range, and came down directly upon the shore of the sea. I always h:id a high feeling when I touched the shore of the Pacific, and never more so than at this desolate place. The waves rolled grandly, and broke with a solemn roar. The mules were startled, and my m:icho shrank from the heaving water. I splil'red him into it, and at a moment when I was putting_ in my pocket some shells which Kicolas had picked up, he ran awn.y. He had attempted it several times before in the woods; and now, having a fair chance, I gave him a full sweep of the coast. "\Ve continued nearly an hoUl' on the shore, when we crossed a high, rough headland, aml again came down upon the sea. Four times we mounted headlands, and again descended to the shore, and the he:it became almost intolerable. 'L'he fifth ascent was steep, but we c:ime upon n, table covered with a thick forest, through which we proceeclocl until we came to n, small clearing with two huts. '\Ve stopped at the first, which waq occupied by a black man and his wife. He had plenty of corn; there was a fine pastureground near, so hemmed in by the woods that there was no clangor of the mules escaping, and I hired the man and woman to sleep out of doors, and gi \'C me the hovel to myself,* * At thi.'i place Mr. Stephens devoted a few days to examine tlie ground between the Pacific Ocean and the Lake of Nicaragua1 through ,vhich 01e projected inter.oceanic canal ispro1Josed to be ~nade, and on the 1st of March resumed his journey towards Guatimaln.-F. C, Ii II Ii LAKE OF MASAYA, 231 CHAPTER XIX. VISIT 1'0 THE ''OLCANO OF MASAYA-VILT.AGE OF :MASAYA-I.AXE OF MASAYA-xnrntnrASCE;>;T OF THE VOLCA "0---ACCOUKT 01/ IT-THE CRATER-DESCE:ST l:STO JT-VOLCA:SO UP Nl:SDlRI-IGNORANCE OF THE PEOPLE CONCERNING OBJ"Ecrs 0.F INTEREST-RETURN TO :MASAYA-ANOTllER COVNTUYMAN-MANAGVA-LAKF. OJ,' M,\NAGUA- l,"JSHING-BEAUTIFUL SCENERY-llATE_\RES-QUESTA DEL RELOX - K,\GAROTIS-CROSSES-A GAMEKJ:;EPJ::R - PUEBLO NUEVO. l\Lrncrr !.-Anxious as I was to hurry on, I resolved nevertheless to give one day to the Volcano of Masayl\. For this purpose I sent a courier ahead to procure me a guide up the volcano, and did not get off till eleven o'clock. At a short distance from tho city we met a little negro on horseback, dressed in the black snit that nature had made him, with two large plantain leaves sewed together for a hat, and plantain leaves for a saddle. At the distance of two leagues we came in sight of the volcano, and at four o'clock, after a hot ride, entered the town, one of the oldest and largest in Nicaragua, and though completely inland, containing, with its suburbs, a population of 20,000. "'e rode to the house of Don Sabino Satroon, who lay, with his mouth open, snoring in a hammock; but his wife, a pretty young half-blood, received me cordially, antl with a proper regard for the infirmities of an old husband and for me, did, not wake him up. All at once he shut his mouth and opened his eyes, and gave me a cordin1,Yelcome. Don Sabino was a Colombian, who Imel been banished for ten years, as he said, for services rendered his country; and having found his way to l\Iasaya, hatl married the pretty young half-breed, and set up as a doctor. Inside the tloor, behiud a little stock of sugar, rice, sausages, and chocolate, was a formidable arn,y of jars aud bottles, exhibiting as many colours and as puzzling labels as an apothecary's shop at home. I had time to take a short walk around the town, and turning down the road, at the distance of half a mile came Lo the brink of a precipice, more than a h nndrecl feet deep, at the foot of which, and a short distance beyond, was the Lake of Uasaya. 'l'he descent was n.lmost pcrpcnclicular, in one phtce by a rough laclcler, and then hy steps cut in the rock. I was obliged to stop while fifteen or twenty women, most of them young, passed. Their w,,ter-jars were made of the shell of a large gourd, rountl, with fanciful figures scraLchecl on them, and painted or glazed, supported on thQ back by a strap across the forehead, and 232 TUA VELS IN CENTRAL .A111EUIC.A. secured by fine net-work. Below they were chattering gaily, but by the time they reached the place where I stood they were silent, their movements very slow, their breathing hard, and faces covered with profose perspiration. 'This was a great part of tho daily labour of the women of the place, and in this way they procnred enough for domestic use; hut every horse, mule, or cow was obliged to go by a circuitous road of more than a league for water. 11'hy a large town has grown up and been continued so far from this element of life, I do not know. 'The Spaniards found it a large Indian village, and as they immediately made the owners of the soil their drawers of water, they did not feel the burden; nor do their descendants now. In the meantime my guide arrived, who, to my great satisfaction, was no less a personage than the alcaldc himself. 'l'he arrangements were soon made, and I was to join him the next morning at his house in Nindiri. I gave my mules and Nicolas a day's rest, and started on Don Sabino's horse, with a boy to act as guide and to carry a pair of alforgas with provisions. In half an honr I reached Nindiri, having met more people than on my whole road from San Jose to Nicaragua. The alcalde was ready, and in company ,Yith an assistant, who carried a pair of alforgas with provisions and a calabash of water, all mounted, we set out. At the distance of half a league we left the main road, and turned off on a small path in the woods on the left. We emerged from this into an open field covered with lava, extending to the base of the volcano in front and on each side as far as I could see, black, several feet deep, and in some places lying on high ridges. A faint track was beaten by cattle over thiA plain of lava. In front were two volcanoes, from both of which streams of lava had run down the sides into the plain. That directly in front my guide said was the Y olcitno of Masaya. In that on the right, and furthest from us, the crater was broken, and the great chasm inside was visible. 'l'his he said was called Yentero, a name I never heard before, and that it was inaccessible. Riding toward that in front, and crossing the field of lava, we reached the foot of tho volcano. Here the grass was high, but the ground was rough and uneven, being covered with decomposed lava. We ascended on horseback, until it became too steep for the horses to carry us, and then dismounted, tied them to a bush, and continued on foot. I was already uneasy as to my guides' knowledge of localities, and soon found that they were unwilling or unable to endure much fatigue. Before we were half way up they disencumbered themselves of the water-jar aud provisions, and yet they lagged behind. The alcalde was a man about forty, who rode his own horse, and being a man of conseq uenee in the town, I could not order him to go faster; his associate was some ten years older, and YOLCANO OF MASAYA, 233 physically incapable; and seeing that they did not know any particuhr path, I left them and went alone. At eleven o'clock, or three hours from the village of Nindiri, I reached the high point at which we were aiming; and from this point I expected to look down into the crater of the volcano; but there was no crater, and the whole surface was covered with gigantic masses of hrrn, and overgrown with bushes and scrnb trees. I waited till my gnides came up, who told me that this was the Volcano of Masaya, and that there was nothing more to see. 'l'hc alcalde insisted that two years before he had ascended with the cum, since deceased, and a party of villagers, and they all stopped at this place. I was disappointed and dissatisfied. Directly opposite rose a high peak, which I thought, from its position, must command a view of the crater of the other yo]cano. I attempted to reach it by passing round the circumference of the mountain, but was obstructed by an immense chasm, and returning, struck directly across. I had no idea what I was attempting. The whole was covered with lava lying in ridges and irregular masses, the surface varying at every step, and overgrown with trees and bushes. After an hour of the hardest work I ever had in my life, I reached the point at which I aimed, and, to my astonishment, instead of seeing the crater of the distant Yolcano, I was on the brink of another. Among the recorded wonders of the discoveries in America, this mountain was one; and the Spaniards, who in those days neYcr stopped half way in auy matter that touched the imagination, called it El Tnficrno do Masaya, or the Hell of Mas.'1,ya. 1'he historian, in speaking of Nicaragua, says," '!'here are burning mountains in this pmvincc, the chief of which is Masaya, where the natives at certain times offered up maids, throwing them into it, thinking by their lives to appease the fire, that it might not destroy the country, and they went to it very cheerful;" and in another place he sftys, "Three leagues from the city of Masaya is a small hill, flat and round, called Ma.saya, being a burning mountain, the mouth of it being half a leagnc in compass, and the depth within it 250 fathoms. 'l'hern are no trees nor grass, but birds build without any disturbance from the fire. 1'here is imother mouth like that of a well about a bow~hot oyer, the distance from which to the fire is about 150 fathoms, alwftys boiling up, and that mass of fire often rises, and gives a great light, so that it can be seen at a considerable distance. It moves from one side to the other, ancl sometimes roars so loud that it is dreadful, yet nev~r casts up miything but smoke and flame. 1'hc liquor never ceasing at the bottom, Eor its boiliug, imagining the same to be gold, .F'. Blase de l 23-L 'l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, Ynies/ct, of tho Order of St. Do1ninick, and two other Spania1·ds, wore let down into the first mouth in two baskets, with a bucket made of one piece of iron, and a long chain to draw up some of that fiery matter, and know whether it was metal. The chain ran 150 fathoms, and as soon as it came to tho fire, the bucket melted, with some links of the chain, in a very short time, and therefore they could not know what was below. They lay there that night without any ,.ant of fire or cimdles, and came out again in their baskets sufficiently frighted." Either the monk, disappointed in his search for gold, had fibbed, or nature had made one of its most extraordinary changes. The crater was about a mile and u half in circumference, fiye or six hundred feet deep, with sides slightly sloping, and so regular in its proportions that it seemed an artificial excuvation. Tho bottom wus level, both sides and bottom covered with grass, and it seemed an immense conical green basin. 'rhere were none of tho fearfnl marks of a volcanic emption; nothing to terrify, or suggest an idea of an cl infierno; but, on the contrary, it was u scene of singulur and quiet beauty. I descended to the side of the crater, and walked along the edge, looking clown into the area. Toward tho other encl was a gro,vth of arbolitos or little trees, and in one place no grass grew, and the ground was black ancl loamy, like mud clryiug up. This was perhaps tho mouth of the mys• terious w·ell that sent up the flame, which gave its light a "considernble distance," into which the Indi::tn m:1idens were thrown, ancl which melted the monk's iron bucket. Like him, I felt curious to "know what was below;" but the sides of the crater were porpendicuhu·. Entirely alone, and with an hour's very hard work between me and my f:(Uides, I hesitated about making any attempt to descend, but I disliked to return without. In one place, and near the black earth, tho side was broken, and there were some bushes and scrub trees. I planted my gun against a stone, tied my handkerchief around it as a signal of my whereabout, and very soon was below the Jm·el of the ground. Letting myself down by the aid of rootR, bushes, and projecting stones, I descended to a scrub tree which grow out of the side about half way from the bottom, and below this it was a naked and perpendicular wall. It was impossible to go any fnrther. I was oven obliged to keep on the upper side of the tree, and here I was more anxious than ever to reach tho bottom; hut it was of no use. Hanging midway, impressed with the solitude and the extraordinary features of a scone upon which so few human eyes have ever rested, and the power of tho great Architect who has scattered his wonderfnl works over the whole face of the earth, I could not but reflect, what a waste of the bounties of Providence in this favoured but misernble hind! A BLACK PllIEST, At home this volcano would be a fortune; with a good hotel on the top, a railing round to keep children from falling in, a zigzag staircase down tbe sides, and a glass of iced lemonade at the bottom. Cataracts arc good property with people who know how to turn them to account. Kiagara and 'l'renton FalJs pay well, and the owners of volcanoes in Central America might make money out of them by famishing facilities to travellers. This one could probably be bought for ten dollars, ancl I would have given twice that sum for a rope, nncl a mnn to hold it. Meanwhile, though anxious to be at the bottom, I was cnsting my eyes wistfully at the top. The turning of an ankle, brcnking of a brunch, rolling of a stone, or a failure of strength, might put me where I should ha"l'O been as hard to find as the government of Centi-al America. I commenced climbing up, slowly and with care, and in due time hauled myself out in safety. On my right was a full "l'iew of the broken crater of the Y olcano of Nindiri. The side toward me was hurled down, and showed the whole interior of the crater. This the alcal<le had declared inaccessible ; and partly from sheer spite against him, I worked my way to it with extreme labour and difficulty. At length, after five hours of most severe toil among the ruggecl henps of lava, I descended to the place where we had left our provisions. Herc I seized the calabash of ·water, and stood for several minutes with my face turned up to the skies, and then I began upon the alcalde and the eatables. Both he and his comp:mion expressed their utter astonishment at what I described, and persisted in saying that they did not know of the existence of such a place. I was too indignant with the alcaldc to have anything further to do with him; and bent upon making another attempt, on my return to the Yillage I rode to the house of the cum, to obtain his assistance in procuring men aud making other needful preparations. On the steps of the back piazza I saw a young negro man, in a black gown and cap, sitting by the side of a good-looking, well-dressed white woman, and, if I mistake not, discoursing to her of other things than those connected with his priestly duties. His black reverence was by no means happy to sec me. I asked him if I could make an inn of his house, which, though it sounds somewhat free, is the set phrase for a traveller to use; and, without rising from his seat, he said his house was small and incommodious, and that the :tlcalde hru:l a good one. He was the first black priest I had seen, and the only one in the country who failed in hospitality. I must confess that I felt a strong impulse to lay the butt of a pistol over his head; and spurring my horse so that he sprang almost upon him, I wheeled short nnd galloped out of the 236 'rRA VELS IN CENTTIAL AMERICA. yard. 'With the alcalde and the cur;:1 both against me, I h[ld no chance in the village. It was nearly dark, and I returned to Masrtya. :My vexation was lost in a sense of overpowering fatigue. It would be impossible to repeat the severe labour of the day, without an interval of rest, and there was so much difficulty in making arrangements, that I determined to mount my macho and push on. The next morning I resumed my journey. My mules had not been watered. To send them to the Jake and back would give them a journey of two leagues; and to save them I bought water, which was measured out in a gourd holding about a quart. At about a league's distance we came in sight of the Lake of Managua, and before us the whole country was a bed of l,wa from the base of the volcano to the lake. In about three hours, after a desperately hot ride, we reached Managua, beautifully situated on the banks of the lake. Entering through a collection of thatched huts, we passed a large aristocratic house, with a courtyard occupying a whole square, the mansion of an expatriated family, decayed and going to ruin. Late in the aJternoon I walked down to the lake. It was not so gmnd as the Lake of Nicaragua, but it was a noble sheet of water, and in full sight was the Volcano of Momotombo. The shore presented the same animated spectacle of women filling their water-jars, meil bathin6, horses and mules chinking, and in one place was a range of fishermen's huts; on the edge of the "·ater, stakes were set up in a triangular form, and women with small hand-nets were catching fish, which they threw into hollow places dug, or rather scraped, in the sand. 'rho fish "·ere called sardinitos, and at the door of the huts the men were building fires to cook them. The beauty of this scene was enhanced by the reflection that it underwent no change. Here was perpetual summer; no winter ever came to drive the inhabitants shivering to their fires; but still it may be questioned whether, 1vith the same scenery and climate, wants few and easily supplied, luxuriating in the open air, and by the side of this loYely lake, even the <lescendants of the Anglo-Saxon race would not lose their energy and industry. At three o'clock the next morning we started. In all the tierms calicntcs it is the custom to travel at night, or rnthcr very early in the morning. At eight o'clock we entered the village of l\fatcares, where we procured some eggs, and breakfasted. From this village our road lay directly along the lake, but a few paces from the shore, and shaded Ly noble trees. U nfortnnately, we were obliged to tnrn off to avoid a large rock which had rolled down several months before, and probably A SPORTIKG CHARACTER. 237 blocks up the road still. This brought us round by the Cuesta del Relox, so called from a ,enemble sun-dial wbich stands on one side of the road, of n dark grey stone, with au inscription in Castilian, but the characters so worn and indistinct that I could not make them out. It has no history, except that it was erected by the conquerors; and it stands as an indim,tion of the works with which the Spaniards began the settlement of the country. At half-past eleven we left the lake for the last time, and entered an open plain. \Ve rode an hour longer, and reached Nagarotis, a misemblo village, its houses partly built of mud, with yards in front, trodden bare by mules, and baked white by the sun. I entered one of the houses for shelter, and found in it a young negro priest, on his way to Carthagena, with orders from the Church at Leon. The house was occupied by an old man alone. It had a bedstead, with a mat o,er it, upon which I lay down, glad to rest awhile, and to escape the scorching heat. Opposite the bed was a rude frame, about six feet high, on the top of which was a sort of baby-house, with the figure of the Virgin sitting on a chair, and dressed in cheap finery. At three we started again . The sun had lost some of its force, the road was wooded, and I observed more than the usual number of crosses. The people of Nicarngua arc said to be the worst in the republic. The inhabitants of the other States alwnys caution a stranger against them, and they are proportionally devout. Everywhere, in the cities and country, on the tops of mountains, and by tho side of rivers, these memorials stared me in the face. I noticed one in a cleared place by the roadside, painted black, with a black board suspended to it, containing an inscription in faded white letters; it had been erectecl to the memory of a padre, who had been murdered ancl buried at its foot. I stopped to copy the inscription, and while so engaged saw a tra,elling party approaching, and, knowing the jealousy of the people, shut my note-book and rode on. The party consisted of two men, with their servants, and a woman. The younger mau accosted me, and said that he had seen me at Grenada, anu regretted that he hacl not known of my proposed journey. From the style of his dress and equipments, I supposed him to be a gentleman, and was sure of it from the circumstance of his carrying a gamecock under his arm. As we rode on, the conversation turned upon these interesting birds, and I learned that my new acquaintance was going to Leon to fight a match, of which he offered to give me notice. The bird which he carried hacl won three matches in Grenada; its fame had reached Leon, and drawn forth a challenge from that place. It was rolled up as carefully as a frnctmed leg, with nothing but the head and tail 238 TRA, VELS IN CEXTRAL AMERICA. visible; and, suspended by a string, was as easily carried as a basket. 'l'he young mau sighed over tho miseries of the country, the distress and ruin caused by the ,vars ; and represented the pit at Grenada as being in a deplorable condition; but in Leon he said it was very flourishing, on account of its being the head-quarters of the military. The building, too, did honour to the city: it was only open on Sun. days; but he knew tho proprietor, and coulcl at ::my time make an arrangement for a match. He made many inquiries about the state of the science in my country; told me that he had imported t,rn cocks from England, which were game enough, but not sufficiently heavy for theirs; and gave me, besides, much valuable information on this subject, of which I neglected to make any memorandum. Before dark we roached Pueblo Nuevo, and all went to the same posada. His companion was not so much of a sportsman, though he knew the qualities of a good bird, and showed a familiarity in handling them. It was the first time I had fallen in with travellers for the night. I have avoided details in all places whore I was partaking of private hospitality, but this was like a hotel at home, in the main point, that all were expected to pay. \Ve had for supper poached eggs and beans, without vlate, knife, fork, or spoon. My companions used their tortillas to take up au egg, and also, by tumiug up the edges, to scoop out frigolcs from tho dish; withal, they were courteous and gentlemanly. ,v e bad a species of chocolate, made of pounded cocoa, and sweetened, and served in kickorics, which, having bottoms like tho ends of large eggs, could not stand on the table. 21.Iy companions twisted their pocket-handkerchiefs, and winding them on the table in circular folds, set tho kickories inside the hollow, and one of them did tho same with my handkerchief for me. After supper the younger of tho two dressed the birds in their 1·obes de nuit, a cotton cloth wound tight around the body, compressing the winss, and then, with a string fastened to the back of the cloth, so that tho body was balanced, hooked each of them to the hammock. While he was preparing them the woman was showing horn combs, bc,icls, earrings, and rosaries, and entrapped the daughter of the host into the purchase of a comb. The house had an unusual influx of company. The young man, the female merchant, and I do not know how many of the family, slept in a back room. The elder traveller offered me a hammock, but I preferred the long chest, made from the trunk of a tree, which i1i every house in Nicaragua sen-eel as sort of cupboard. Ac, UNCIVIL HOSTESS. 239 CHAP'l'ER XX. DEAUTIFUL PLAIN-LEO~-STROLL THROUIT THE TOWN-DANEFUL EFFECTS OF PARTY-SPIRIT -SCENES OF lIORROR-UNPLEASANT lNTELl IGENCE-JOURNEY COKTINUEO-A FASTIDIOUS DEGGAR-CHINANDEGA-GULF OF CONCHAGUA-VISIT TO REALEJO---COTTON FACTORYllARBOUR OF REALEJO-EL VIEJO-POltT OF NAGUISCOL0-1:IIPORTANCE OF A i'ASSFORTlDlDARKINO llULES-.'\. :BUNGO-VOLCANO OF COS:EGUINA-ERUPTIO:X OF ]835-LA UNION. AT two o'clock we were awakened by the crowing of the cocks, and at three the cargo-mules were loaded, and we set off. The road was level and wooded, but desperately dusty. For two hours after daylight we had shade, when we came upon an open plain, bounded on the Pacific side by a low ridge, and on the 1·ight by a high range of mountains, forming part of the great chain of the Cordilleras. Before us, at a great distance, rising above the level of the plain, we saw the spires of the Cathedral of Leon. This magnificent plain, in richne~s of soil not surpassed by any land in the world, lay as desolate as when the Spaniards first traversed it. The dry season was near its close ; for four months there had been no rain, and the dust hung around us in thick clouds, hot and fine as the sands of Egypt. At nine o'clock we reached Leon, and I parted with my companions, but not without a courteous invitation from the younger to take up my rest at the house of his brother. The suburbs were more miserable than anything I had yet seen. Passing up a long street, across which a sentinel was patrolling, I saw in front of the quartcl a group of vagabond soldiers, a match for Ca1Tera's, who cried out insolently, " Quita el sombrero," "Take off your hat." I had to traverse the whole extent of the city before I reached the house to which I had been recommended. I dismounted, and entered it with confidence of a warm reception; but the lady, with considerable expedition, told me that her husband was not at home. I gave her a note with which I had been furnished, addressed to herself; but she said she could not read English, and handed it back. I translated it word for word, being a request that she would give me lodgings. Her brow actually knit with vexation; and she said she had but one spare room, and that was reserved for the English vice-consul from Realej0. I answered that the viceconsul did not intend leaving Realejo for the present. She asked me how long I intended to stay; and when I replied, only that night, she said that if such were the case I might remain. 'J.'he reader "·ill perhaps "·ondcr at my want of spirit ; bnt the fact is, I was loth to con- 210 'l'lU YELS IN CE~TRAL A~!ElUCA, sider m,y incivility personal. My only alternative was to seek out the young man whose invitation I bad declined, and whose name I did not know, or to ask permission from door to door. It is said that women are governed by appearances, and mine was not very seductive. My dress was the same with which I had left Grenada, soiled by the ascent of the Volcano of ~Iasn,ya, and now covered with dust. ~faking the most of my modemte wardrobe, on my reappearance I "·as more favourably received. At least I had a capital breakfast; and as it was very hot, and I wanted to rest, I remained in doors and played with the children. At dinner I had the seat of honour at the head of the table, and had made such progress, that, if I had desired it, I could have ventured to broach the subject of remaining another day; and J owe it to the lady to say, that, having assented to my rcnmining, she treated me with great civility and attention, and particularly used great exertions in procming me a guide to enable me to set out the next day. After dinner Nicolas came to my room, and with uplifted hands cried out against the people of Leon, "Gente indecente, sin vergucnza;" JitemJly, "Indecent people, without shame." He had been hooted in the streets, and had heard such stories of the state of the country before us that he wanted to return home. I was extremely loth to make another change, and particularly for any of the assassin-looking scoundrels whom I Imel seen on my entry; but I did not like the responsibility of taking him against his will, and told him that if he would procure me two honest men he might leave me. I had advanced him more than was clue, but I had a security against his deserting me in his apprehension of being taken for a soldier. This oYer, I wa.Jked out to take a view of the town. It had an appearance of old and aristocratic respectability, which no other city in Central America possessed. The houses were large, and many of the fronts were covered with stucco ornaments; the plaza was spacious, and the squares of the churches and the churches themselves magnificent. It was the seat of a bishopric, and distinguished for the costliness of its churches and convents, its seats of learning, and its men of science, down to the time of its revolution against Spain; bnt in walking through its streets I saw palaces in which nobles had lived dismantled and roofless, and occu_piecl by half-starved wretches, pictures of misery and want; aud on one side an immense field of rnins, covering half the city. I must confess that I felt a degree of uneasiness in walking the streets of Leon that I never felt in any city in the East. My change of dress did not make my presence more acceptable, and the eagle on Ul\I'LEASAJ\T J)ITELLIGEXCE. 241 my hat attracted particular attention. At every corner was n. group of scoundrels, who stared at me as if disposed to pick a quarrel. 1Yith some my offici,11 character made me an object of suspicion ; for in their disgraceful fights they thought that the eyes of the whole world "·ere upon them, and that England, Fm.nee, and the United States were secretly contending for the possession of their interesting country. I intended to pay n. visit to the chief of the state; but, afraid of being insultod or getting into some difficulty that might detain me, I retumcd to the house. By means of the servants, Nicolas Lad found two men who 1vcre "·illing to accompany me, but I did not like their looks, or even to let them know when I intended to set out. I had hardly disposed of them before my guide en.me to advise me not to set out the next day, as 500 soldiers, who had Leen mal<ing prepn.mtions for several days, were to march the next moming against S,rn Salrndor. This was most unpleasant intelligence. I did not wish to travel with them, or to fall in with them on the road; and calculating that their march would he slower than mine, told the guide to ascertain their time for starting, and we would set out two hours before them. 2',icolas went out with him to take the mules to water; but they returned in great haste, with intelligence that piquets were scouring the city for men and mules, and had entered the yard of a padre near by and taken three of his animals. The lady of the house ordered all the doors to be locked and the keys brought to her, and an hour before dark we ,rerc all shut in, and my poor mules went without water. At about eight o'clock ,rn heard the tmmp of camlry in the streets, and gathering inside the doorway, saw about 600 men taking up their line of march. There was no music, no shouting, no waving of handkerchiefs, to cheer them as defenders of their country or as ad rnnturers in the road to glory; hut in the dark, and barefooted, their tread seemed stealthy; people looked at them with fear; and it seemed rather the sally of a band of conspirators than a march l>y the soldiers of n. republic. lily muleteer did not return till daylight the next morning. Fortun:,tcly for us, he had learned that the troops were destined on another, hut even a more inglorious expedition. Expenses had been incurred in sending troops into Honduras, of which Grenada refused to pay its portion, on the ground that, by the constitution, it was not liable except for expenses incurred in defending the borders of its own state. 'l'his was admitted; but the expense had been incurred; Leon had fought the battle, and had the same materials with which she gained it to enforce the contribution. In order that Grenada might R 2JZ TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA, be taken unawares, it was given out that the troops were destined for San Salvador, and they were actually marched out on the San Salvador road; but at midnight made a circuit, and took the route for Grenada. "\Y ar between different states was bad enough, but here the flame which had before laid the capital in ruins was lighted again within its own borders. What the result of this expedition was I never heard; bnt probably, taken unawares and without arms, Grenada was compelled by bayonets to pay what, by the constitution, she was not bound to pay. Outside of Leon, and once more on the back of my macho, I breathed more freely. Nicolas was induced to continue by hearing that there ,ms a vessel at Realejo for Costa Rica, and I hoped to find one for Zonzonate. The great plain of Leon was even more beautiful than before; too beautiful for the thankless people to whom the bounty of Providence had given it. On the left was the same low ridge separating it from the Pacific Ocean, and on the right the great range of Cordilleras, terminated by the volcano of the Viejo. I had passed through the village of Chichuapa when I heard a cry of "caballero" behind me, and turning, saw divers people waving their hands, and a woman running, almost out of breath, with a pockethandkerchief which I had left at the house where I breakfasted. I was going on, when a respectable-looking gentleman stopped me, with many apologies for the liberty, and asked for a medio, sixpence. I gave him one, ,,hich he examined, and handed back, saying, "No corre," "it does not pass." It was always, in paying money, a matter of course to have two or throe pieces returned, and this I sometimes resisted; but as in this land everything was al reverso, it seemed regular for beggars to be choosers, and I gave him another. My stopping-place was at tho house of Mr. Bridges, an Englishman from one of tho ,vest India islands; and, as usual, my first business was to make arrangements for continuing my journey. My whole road was along the coast of the Pacific, but beyond this the Gulf of Conchagna )llade a large indentation in the land, which it was customary to cross in a bungo, sending the mules around the head of the gulf. I was informed that the latter was hazardous, as the Honduras troops were marching upon San Salvador, and would seize them. I might save them by going myself; but it was a journey of six days, through u collntry so desolate that it was necessary to carry food for the mules, and as I had still a long ron.d beyond, I felt it necessary to economise my strength. I was loth to run the risk of losing my mules, and sent a conrier to El Viejo, where the owners of the bungoes lived, to hire the largest, determined to run tho risk of taking them with rue. '!.'he ' I ) PORT OF NAGUISCOLO. 243 next morning the courier returned, having procured a bungo, to be ready the next evening, and with a message from the owner that the embarcation must be at my risk. Early the next morning I sent on an ox wagon with the luggage, and a stock of corn and grass for the mules during the voyage, and, after a pleasant ride of a league, reached the Viejo, one of the most respectable-looking towns in Nicaragua. The house of the owner of the bungo was one of the largest in the place, and furnished with two mahogany sofas made by a Yankee cabinet-maker in Lima, two looking-glasses with gilt frames, a French clock, gilt chairs with cane bottoms, and two Boston rocking-chairs, which had made the passage round Cape Horn. Don Francisco went over to the commandant. He, unluckily, had received his orders direct from the government, and dared not let me pass. I went over myself with Mr. Foster, the English vice-consul. The order was positive, ltnd I was in agony. Here I made a push with my official character, and after an hour's torment, by the warm help of Mr. Foster, and upon his undertaking to save the commandant harmless, and to send an express immediately to Leon for a passport from the chief of the state, it was agreed that in the meantime I might go on. I did not wait long, but, taking leave of J\fr. Foster and Don Francisco, set out for the port. It was seven leagues, through an unbroken forest. On the way I overtook my bungo men, nearly naked, moving in single file, with the pilot at their head, and each carrying on his back an open network containing tortillas and provisions for the voyage. At half past bvo we reached the port of Naguiscolo. There was a single hut, at which a woman was washing corn, with a naked child near her on the ground, its face, arms, and body one running sore, a pictm-e of squalid poverty. In front was a large muddy plain, through the centre of which ran a straight cut called a canal, with an embankment on one side dry, the mud baked hard, and bleached by the sun. In this ditch lay several bungoes high and dry, adding to the ugliness of the picture. I had a feeling of great satisfaction that I was not obliged to remain there long; but the miserable woman, with a tone of voice that seemed to rejoice in the chance of making others as miserable as herself, desisted from washing her maize, and screeched in my ears that a guarda had been sent direct from the capital, with orders to let no one embark without a passport. The guarda had gone down the river in a canoe, in search of a bungo which had attempted to go away without a passport; and I walked down the bank of the canal in hope to catch him alone when he returned. 'rhe snn was scorching hot, and as I passed the buugoes, the boatmen asked me if I had a pussR 2 24.4 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL MIERICA. port. At the encl of the canal, uncler the shade of a large tree, were two women; and they had been in that place three days, waiting for one of their party who had gone to Leon to procure a passport. · It was more than an hour before tho guarda appeared. Ile ,rns taken by the eagle on my hat, and while I told him my story, said, "Si, sei'ior," to everything; but when I talked of embarking, said, "Sei'ior, yon have no passport." I will uot inflict upon the reader the details of all my vexations and anxiety that afternoon. I was most eager to hurry on. 'fo send a courier to Leon would keep me in suspense insufferable. Some difficulty might happen, and the only way for peace of mind was to return myself. I had ah·eacly made a longer journey than is ever made in the country without an interrnl of rest. 'l'he road before me led through the seat of war, and four days' detention might throw me into the midst of it. (In fact, the result proved that one day "·ould have done so.) I walked with the guarda to the hut, and in greater anxiety than I had felt since my departure from home, showed him my papers-a larger bundle, perhaps, than he had ever seen before, and with bigger seals, particularly my original passport from my own government-jumbling together his government and my government, tho amicable relations existing between them, and trying to give him an overwhelming idea of my importance; but he knew no more what it meant than if I had repeated to him in English the fifth problem in Euclid. 'l'he poor man was almost in as great perplexity as I was. Several times he assented and retracted; and at length, upon my giving him a letter promising him the protection of Mr. Foster and the commandant at Viejo, he agreed to let the bungo go. It was about an hour before dark when we went do"·n to embark the mules. l'\Iy bnngo was at the extreme end of the canal, and the tide had risen so that she was afloat. We began with the grey, by casting a noose around her legs, drawing them together, and throwing her down. 'The men then attempted to lift her up bodily over the side of the buugo; but failing in this, took off the rudder, and leaning it against the side, hauled the mule up it, then tilted the rudder, and dropped her into the boat. In tho meantime the macho stood under a tree, looking on very suspiciously, and with fearful forebodings. '!.'he noose was put round his legs, with a rope before and behind to pull on, and struggling desperately, ho was thrown down, but hardly touched the ground before, with a desperate effort, he broke the ropes and rose upon his feet. A second attempt was more successful; but the two abreast made a close fit, and I was obliged to leave behind the luggage mule. I paid the guarda to fake her to Mr. Foster, but whether she reached him or not I have never heard. A BUNGO, 245 We were assisted by the boatmen of another bungo, and I ordered supper and agua ardiente for the whole. This was furnished at the hut by the guarda, and when it was over, the men, all in good spirits, commenced taking the luggage on board. At this time some who were detained were grumbling, and a new man entered the hut, as he said, direct from the Pueblo, who croaked in my ears the odious order, and the guard again made objections. I was excessively vexed by this last interruption; and fairly bullying the new comer out of the hut, told the guard that the thing was settled, and that I would not be trifled with, took np my gun, and told the men to follow me. I saw beforehand that they were elevated by their good cheer, and that I could rely upon them. The guard, and all those compelled to wait, followed; but we got on board, and my crew were so tipsy that they defied all opposition. One push cleared the bungo from the canal, and as she was passing out a stranger unexpectedly stepped on board, and in the dark slipped down under the awning with the mules. I was surprised and a little indignant that he had not asked leave, and it occurred to me that he was a partisan who might compromise me; but to return might lead to new difficulty, and, besides, he was probably some poor fellow escaping for his life, and it was better that I should know nothing about it. In the midst of my doubts a man on the bank cried out that fifty soldiers had arrived from Leon. It was pitchy dark; we could see nothing, and my men answered with a shout of defiance. In the meantime we were descending rapidly, \Yhirling around and hitting against the branches of trees; the mules were thrown down, the awning carried away, and in the midst of d,n-kness and confusion we struck with a violent crash against another buugo, which knocked us all into a heap, and I thought would send us to the bottom. The men rose with roars of laughter. It was a bad beginning. Still I wns ov01joyed at being clear of the port, and there was a wild excitement in the Hoene itself. At length the men sat down to the oard, and pulled for a few minutes as if they would tear the old hungo out of the water, shouting all the time like spirits of darkness let loose. 'l'he pilot sat quietly at the helm without speaking, and dark as it ,rns, at times I saw a smile steal over his face at the ·wild sallies of the boatmen. Again they began rowing furiously as before, and suddenly one of the sweeps broke and the oarsman fell backward. 'fhc bungo was run up among the trees, and the men climbed ashore by the brnnches. 'fhc blows of machetes, mingled with shouts and laughter, rang tln·ough the woods; they were the noisiest party I met in Central America. In tbc dark they cut down a dozen saplings before they found what they wanted, 24,G TRAVELS IN CEKTRAL Ai\IERICA, and in about an hour returned, and the shattered awning was refitted. By this time they ,,.-ere more sobered; and taking their sweeps, we moved silently clown the dark river until one o'clock, when v,e came to anchor. The bungo was about forty feet long, dug out of the trunk of a Guanacaste tree, about five feet wide and nearly as deep, with the bottom round, and a toldo, or awning, round like the top of a market-wagon, made of matting and bulls' hides, covered ten feet of the stern. Beyond were six seats across the sides of the bungo for the oarsmen. The whole front was necessary for the men, and in reality I had only the part occupied by the awning, where, with the mules as tenants in common, there were too many of us. They stood abreast, with their halters tied to the first bench. The bottom was rounding, and gave them an unsteady foothold; and when the boat heaved they had a scramble to preserve their centre of gravity. The space between their heels and the encl of the log, or stern of the bungo, wa~ my sleeping-room. Nicolas was afraid to pass between the mules to get a place among the men, and he could not climb over the awning. I had their heads tethered close up to the bench, and putting him outside to catch the first kick, drew up against the stern of the bungo and went to sleep. At half past seven we weighed anchor, or hauled up a large stone, and started with oars. My boatmen were peculiar in their way of wearing pantaloons. First they pulled them off, folded them about a foot wide and two feet long, and then suspended them over the belts of their machetes like little aprons. At nine o'clock we reachen the month of the rivet·. Here we hoisted sail, and while the wind was fair, did very well. The sun was scorching, and under the awning the heat was inmfferablc. Following the coast, at eleven o'clock we were opposite the volcano of Coseguina, a long dark mountain range, with another ridge running below it, and then an extensive plain covered with lava to the sea. The wind headed us, and in order to weather the point of headland from which we could lay our course, the boatmen got into the water to tow the bnngo. I followed them, and with a broadbrimmed straw hat to protect me from the sun, I found the water was delightful. During this time one of the men brought sand from the shore to break the roundness of the bottom of the boat, and give the mules a foothold. Unable to weather the point, at half past one we came to anchor, and very soon every man on board was asleep. I woke with the pilot's legs resting on my shoulder. It was rather an undignified position, but no one saw it. Before me was the volcano of Coscguina, with its field of lava and its desolate shore, and not a living being "·as in ~ight except my sleeping boatmen. Five years VOLCAKO OF COSEGvIKA, 247 before, on the shores of the :Mediterranean, tind at the foot of ]\fount Etna, I read in a ne"ll'spaper au account of the eruption of this volcano; little did I then ever expect to see it; the most awful in the history of volcanic eruptions, the noise of which startled the people of Guatimala 400 miles off; and at Kingston, Jamaica, eight hundred miles distant, was supposed to be signal guns of distress from some vessel at sea. The face of natlll'e was changed; the cone of the volcano was gone; a mountain and field of lava ran down to the sea; a forest, old as creation, had entirely disappeared, and two islands were formed in the sea; shoals were discovered, in one of which a large tree was fixed upside down; one river was completely choked up, and another formed running in an opposite direction; seven men in the employ of my hungo proprietor ran down to the water, pushed off in a bungo, and were never heard of more; wild beasts, howling, left their caves in the mountains, and ounces, leopards, and snakes fled for shelter to the abodes of men. This eruption took place on the 20th of January, 1835. l\Ir. Savage \\as on that clay on the side of the volcano of San Miguel, distant 120 mileH, looking for cattle. At eight o'clock he saw a dense cloud rising in the south in a pyramidal form, and heard a noise which sounded like the roaring of the sea. Very soon the thick cloncls were lighted up by vivi:l flaBhes, rose-coloured and forked, shooting and disappearing, which he supposed to be some electrical phenomenon. These appearances increased so fast that his men became frightened, and said it was a ruina, and that the encl of the "·oriel was nigh. Very soon he himself "·as satisfied that it was the eruption of a volcano; and as Coseguina was at that time a quiet mountain, not suspected to contain subterraneous fires, he supposed it to proceed from the volcano of Tigris. He returned to the town of San Miguel, and in riding a short distance, felt three severe shocks of earthquake, The inhabitants were distracted with terror. Birds flew wildly through the streets, and, blinded by the dust, fell dead on the ground. At four o'clock it was so dark that, as 1fr. S. s3ys, he held up his hand before his eyes, and could not see it. Nobody moved without a candle, which gave a dim and misty light, extending only a few feet. At this time the church was full, and could not contain half who wished to enter. 'fhe figme of the Virgin was brought out into the plaza and borne through the streets, followed by the inhabitants, with candles and torches, in penitential procession, crying upon the Lord to pardon their sins. Bells tolled, and cluriug the procession there was another earthquake, so violent and long that it threw to the grouncl many people walking in the procession. Tho darkness continued till eleven o'clock the next day, when tho sun was partially Yisible, but 248 'I'll.I. \'ELS IN CENTI\AL A~IERIC.~. dim and hazy, and without any brightness. The dust on the gronnci was four inches thick; tho branches of trees broke with its weight, and people were so disfigured by it that they could not be recognised. Towards evening my men all woke j the wind was fair, but they took things quietly, and after supper hoisted sail. About twelve o'clock, by an amicable arrangement, I stretched myself on the pilot's bench under the tiller, and when I woke we had passed the volcano of Tigris, and were in an archipelago of islands more beautiful than tho islands of Greece. Tho wind died away, and the boatmen, after playing for a little while with the oars, again let fall the big stone and went to sleep. Outside the awning the heat of the sun was withering, under it the closeness was suffocating, and my poor mules had had no water since their embarkation. In tho confusion of getting away I had forgotten it till tho moment of departure, and then there ,ms no vessel in which to carry it. After giving them a short nap I roused the men, and with tho promise of a reward induced them to take to their oars. Fortunately, before they got tired we had a breeze, and [It about four o'clock in the afternoon tho big stone was dropped in the harbour of La Union, in front of the town. One ship W[IS lying at anchor, a "·haler from Chili, which had put in in distress and been conclcmnccl. The commandant was Don Manuel Romero, one of :MoraZ[ln's veterans, who was anxious to retire altogether from public life, but remained in office because, in his present strait5, he could be useful to his benefactor and friend. He had heard of me, and his attentions rcminderl me of, what I sometimes forgot, but which others yery rarely did, my official character; he invited me to his house while I remriined in La Union, but gave me intelligence which made me more anxious thm1 ever to hurry on. General Morazan had left the port but a few days before, having accompanied his family thither on their ,vay to Chili. On his return to San Salvador he intended to march directly against Guatimala. By forced marches I might overtake him, and go up under the escort of his anuy, trusting to chance to aYoid being on the spot in case of a battle, or from my acquaintance with Carrera get passed across the lines. Fortunately, the captain of the condemned ship wished to go to San'. Salvador, and agreed to accompany me the next clay. .:1. l\"E1V COMPAXIO:-'. 249 CHAPTER XXI. lOUJ\NEY TO SAN SALVADOR-A NEW C0MI'A?O0N-S.\N .ALEJO-WAR ALARMS-STATE OF SAN SALVADOlt-Jtl\•En L,El\lPA-SAN YICENTE- VOLC.\NO 01' SAN VfCENTE-TRERllAL SPRIXGS - COJUTEl'J:o:QUE-ARRIVA L AT SAN SALVADOR - l'l\l'JUDlCJ:; AGAINST FOR.£IGNERS - CONTRIBUTIONS-PRESS--0.ANGS-VICE-PRESIDENT ''IGir.-T,\JONG 01' 6.-\::-. MIGUEL AND SAS: VIC.E::O.T£-RUMOURS OF A MARClf UPON SAN SALVADOR-DEPARTURE FROM SAS SALVADOR - LA DARR,\!'iCA DE GUAR.A?tlAL -VOLCANO OF IZALCO - DEPRF'.D,\.TlO~'S OF RA 'll_'ON - Z0SZ0NAl'E - NEWS FR0:X GUATUlALA- JOU RN£'\' C0KTJS"UED- AGUISALC0- APENECAM0UNTAJN OF AG UACUAPA-SUETERRANE.AN FIRES-AU UACUAPA-DEFEAT OF !ilORAZANCONl.lUSlON A:SD TERROR. AT fiye o'clock the next afternoon we set out for San Salvador. Don Manuel Romero fumishecl me with letters of introduction to all the Gefe,s Politicos, and the captain's name was inserted in my passport. I must introduce the reader to my new friend. Captain Antonio V. F., a little over thirty, when six months ont on a whaling voyage, with a leaky ship and a mutinous crow, steered across the Pacific for tho Continent of America, and reached the port of La Union with seven or eight feet water in the hold and half his crew in irons. He knew nothing of Central America until necessity throw him upon its shore. While waiting the slow process of a rcgulnr condemnation and order for the sale of his ship, General )Iomzan, with an escort of officers, came to the port to embark his wife and family for Chili. Captain :F. had become acciuainted with them, and through them with their side of the politics of the conutry; and in the eyening, while we were riding along the ridge of a high mountain, he told me that he had been offered a lieutenant-colonel's commission, and was then on his way to join Morazan in his march against Guatimala. His ship was advertised for sale, he had written an account of his rnisad1·entures to his owners and his wife, was tired of remaining at the port, and a campaign with Morazan was the only thing that offered. He liked General Morazan, and he liked the country, and thought his wife would; if Morazan succeeded there would be vacant offices and estates without owners, and some of them worth having. He went from whaling to campaigning as coolly as a Yankee would from cutting clown trees to editing a newspaper. It was no affair of mine, but I suggested that there was no honour to be g-ained; that he would get his full share of hard knocks, bullets, and sword-cuts; that if J\lorazau succeeded he would have a desperate strugglo for his share of the 250 'l'H.I. VELS IN CEKTRAL A)IERICA. spoils, and if Morazan failed ho would certainly be shot. All this was matter ho bad thought on, and before committing himself he intended to make his observations at San Salvador. At ten o'clock we reached the village of San Alejo, and stopped at a very comfortable house, ,rhore all were in a state of excitement from the report of an invasion from Honduras. The captain had great difficulty in procuring mules ; be had two enormous trunks, containing, among other things, Peruvian chains and other gold trinkets to a large amount ; in fact, all be was worth. In the evening we walked to the plaza,; groups of men, wrapped in their l}onchas, ·were discussing in low tones the movements of the enemy, hmv far they had marched that day, how long they would require for rest, and the moment when it would be necessary to fly. ,v e return eel to the honsc, placed two naked wooden-bottomed bedsteads in ouc, and having ascertained by calculation that we were not likely to be disturbed during tho night, forgot the troubles of the flying inhabitants, and slept soundly. Ou account of the difficulty of procuring mules, we did not sot out till ten o'clock. Tho climate is tho hottest in Central America, and insalubrious under exposure to the sun; but we would not wait. Every moment there were new rumours of the approach of the Honduras army, and it was all important for us to keep in advance of them. I shall hasten over our hurried journey through the state of San Salvador, the richest in Central America, extending 180 miles along the shores of the Pacific, producing tobacco, the best indigo, and richest balsam in the world. In the afternoon of tho second <lay we came in sight of the Lempa, now a gigantic river rolling on to the Pacific. Three months before I had seen it a little stream among the mountains of Esquipulas. Here we were overtaken by Don Carlos Rims, a leading Liberal from Honduras, flying for life before partisan soldiers of his own state. We descended to the bank of the river, and followed it through a wild forest, which had been swept by a tornado, the trees still lying as they fell. At the crossing-place, the valley of the river was half-a-mile wide; but being the dry season, on this side there was a broad beach of sand and stones. ,v e rode to the water's edge, and shouted for the boatman on the opposite side. Other parties arrived, all fugitives, among thorn the wife and family of Dou Cm·los, and we formed a crowd upon the shore. At length the boat came, took on board sixteen mules, saddles and luggage, and as many men, women and children as could stow thcmsclYes mrny, lem·ing a multitude behind. We cross0d in the dark, and on the opposite side found every hut and shed filled ARRIVAL AT SAN SALYADOR, 251 with fugitives; families in dark masses were under the trees, and men and women cra"-led out to congratulate friends who had put the Lcmpa between them and tho enemy. Tiro slept upon our luggage on the bank of the river, and before daylight were again in the saddle. 'l'hat night we slept at San Vicente, and the next morning the captain, in company with an invalitl. officer of Morazan's, who had been prevented by sickness from accompanying the general in his march against Guatimala, rode on with the luggage, while I, with Colonel Hoyas, made a circuit to visit El lnfierno of the volcano of San Vicente. Crossing a beautiful plain running to the base of the volcano, we left our animals at a hut, and walked some distance to a stream in a deep ravine, which we followed upward to its source, coming from the very base of the volcano. The water was warm, and had a taste of vitriol, and the banks were incrusted with white vitriol and flour of sulphur. At a distance of 100 or 200 yards it formed a b'.ISin, whore the water was hotter than tho highest grade of my Rcaumur's thermometer. In several places we heard subterranean noises, and toward tho end of the ravine, on the slope of one side, was an orifice about 30 feet in diameter, from which, with a terrific noise, boiling water was spouted into the air. This is called El Infiornillo, or the " little infernal regions." The inhabitants say that tho noise is increased by the slightest agitation of the air, oven by tho human voice. Approaching to within range of the falling water, wc shouted several times, and as we listened and gazed into the fearful cavity, I imagined that the noise was louder and more angry, and that the boiling water spouted higher at our call. Colonel Hoyas conducted me to a path, from which I saw my road, like a white line, over a high verdant mountain. He told me that many of the inhabitants of San Miguel had fled to San Vicente, and at that place the Hondmas arms would be repelled; we parted, little expecting to see each other again so soon, and under such unpleasant circumstances for him. I overtook the captain at a village where he had breakfast prepared, and in the afternoon we arrived at Cojutepcque, until within two clays tho temporary capital, beautifully situated (Lt the foot of a small extinct volcano, its green and verdant sides broken only by a winding path, and on the top a fortress, which Morazan had built as his last rallyingplace, to die under the flag of the Republic. 'l'ho next day at one o'clock we reached San Salvador. Entering by a fiuo gate, and tlu·ough submbs teeming with fruit and flower trees, the meanness of tho houses was hardly noticed. Advancing, we saw heapa of rubbish, and large houses with their fronts cracked and falling, marks of tho earthquakes which had broken it up as tho scat of 252 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMEUICA. go,ernment, and altnost depopulated the city. This series of earthqm,kes commenced on the third of the preceding October, and for twenty days tho earth was tremulous, sometimes suffering fifteea or twenty shocks in twenty-four hours, and one so severe that, as Mr. Chatfield told me, a bottle standing in his slecpillg-room was thrown down. Most of the inhabitants abandoned the city, and those who remained slept under matting in the courtyards of their houses. E,cry house was more or less injured; some ·were rendered untenantable, and many were thrown down. Two days before, the vice-president and officers of the Federal and State Governments, impelled by the crisis of the times, had returned to their shattered capital. It was about one o'clock, intensely hot, and there was no sl,ade; the streets were solitary, the doors and windows of the houses closed, the shops mound the plaza shut, the little matted tents of the market-women deserted, and the inhabitants, forgetting earthquakes, and that a hostile anny was marching upon them, were taking their noonday siesta. In a corner of the plaza was a barricado, constrncted with trunks of trees, rude as an Indian fortress, and fortified with cannon, intended as tho scene of the last effort for the presermtion of the city. A few soldiers were asleep under tho corridor of the quartcl, and a sentinel was pacing before the door. Inquiring our way of him, we turned the. corner of the plaza, and stopped at tho house of Don Pedro Negrete, at that time acting as vice-consul both of England and France, and the only representative at tho capital of any foreign power. In the evening I called upon the vice-president. Great changes had taken place since I saw him at Zonzonate. The troops of the Federal government had bocu routed in Hot)duras; Carrera had conquered Quezaltenango, garrisoned it with his own soldiers, destroyed its existence as a separate state, and annexed it to Guatimala. San Salvador stood alone in support of the Federal Government. Ilut Seiior Vigil had risen with the emergency. 'l'ho chief of the state, a bold-looking mulatto, and other officers of tltc government, were with him. They knew that tho Honduras troops were marching upon the city, had reason to fear they would be joined hy those of Nicaragua, but they were not dismayed; on tho contrary, all showed a resolution all(l energy I Imel not seen before. General ~forazan, they said, was on his march against Guatimala. Tired as they were of war, tho people of San Salvador, Senor Vigil said, liad risen with new enthusiasm. Volunteers were flocking in from all quarters; and with a deter· miuation that was imposing, though called out by civil war, he added that they were rornlvod to sustain the Federation, or die under the ruins of San Salvador. It was the first time my feelings had been at WAll. ALARMS, 253 all roused. In all the convulsions of the time I had seen no flush of heroism, no high love of country. Self-preservation and self-aggrandisement were the ruling passions. It was a bloody scramble for power and place; and sometimes, as I rode through the beautiful country, and saw what Providence had done for them, and how unthankful they were, I thought it would be a good riddance if they would play out the game of the Kilkenny cats. In the excitement and alarm of the place, it was very difficult to procure mules. As to procuring them direct for Guatimala, it was impossible. No one would move on that road until the result of l\Iorazan's expedition was known; and even to get them for Zonzonate it was necessary to wait a day. That day I intended to abstract myself from the tumult of the city and ascend the volcano of San Salvador; but the next morning a woman came to inform us that one of our men had been taken hy a pressgang of soldiers, and was in the carcel. We followed her to the place, and, being invited in by the officer to pick out our man, found omselves surrounded by 100 of Vigil's volunteers, of every grade in appearance and character, from the frightened servant-boy torn from his master's door to the worst of desperadoes; some asleep on the ground, some smoking stumps of cigars, some sullen, and others perfectly reckless. Two of the supreme worst did me the honour to say they liked my looks, called me captain, and asked me to take them into my company. Our man was not ambitious, and could do better than be shot at for a shilling a clay; hut we could not take him out ·without an order from the chief of the state, and went immediately to the office of the government, where I was sorry to meet Seilor Vigil, as the subject of my Yisit and the secrets of the prison were an unfortunate comment upon his boasts of the enthusiasm of the people in taking up arms. With his usual courtesy, however, he directed the proper order to be made out, and the names of all in my service to be sent to the captains of the different pressgangs, with orders not to touch them. All day men were caught and brought iu, and petty officers were stationed along the street drilling them. In the afternoon intelligence was received that General Mornzan's advanced guard had defeated a detachment of Carrera's troops, and that he was marching with an accession of forces upon Guatimala. A feu-de-joic was fired in the pla2a, and all tho church bells rang peals of victory. In the evening I saw Sefior Vigil again and alone. He was confi-• dent of the result. The Honduras troops would be repulsed at San Vicente; Morazan would take Guatimala. He urged me to wait; he had his preparations all made, his horses ready, and, on the first notice 25J. TRAYELS IN CENTR.tL AMERICA. of Morazan's entry, intended to go up to Guatimala, and establish that city once more as the capital. But I was afraid of delay, and we parted to meet in Guatimala; but we never met again. A few days afterwards he was flying for his life, and is now in exile, under sentence of death if he returns;' the party that rules Guatimala is heaping opprobrium upon his name; but in the recollection of my hurried tour I never forget him who had the unhappy distinction of being vice-president of the Republic. I did not receive my passport till late in the evening, and though I had given directions to the contrary, the captain's name was inserted. ,v e had already had a cliffercnce of opinion in regard to our movements. He was not so bent as I was upon pushing on to Guatimala, and besides, I did not consider it 1~ght, in an official passport, to have the name of a partisan. Accordingly, early in the morning I went to the Government House to have it altered. The separate passports were just handed to me when I heard a clatter in the streets, and fifteen or twenty horsemen galloped into the courtyard, covered with sweat and dust, among whom I recognised Colonel Hoyas, with his noble horse, so broken that I did not know him. They had ridden all night. The Honduras troops had taken San :Miguel and San Yicente, and were then marching upon San Salvador. If not repulsed at Cojutepeque, that clay they would be upon the capital. For four days I had been running before these troops, and now, by a strange caprice, at tho prospect of actual collision, I regretted that my arrangements were so far aclv-nnced, and that I had no necessity for remaining. I had a strong curiosity to see a city taken by assault, but, unfortunntely, I had not the lenst possible excuse. I had my passport in my hand and my mules ,,ere ready. Nevertheless, before I reached Don Pedro's house I determined to remain. 'l'he captain had his sword and spurs on, and was only waiting for mo. I told him the nows, and he uttered I nn exclamation of thankfulness that we were all ready, and mounted immediately. I added that I intended to remain. He refused; said that ho knew the sanguinary character of the people better than I did, and did not ,vish to see an affair without having a hand in it. I replied, and after a short controversy, the result was as usual between two obstinate men: I would not go and he would not stay. I sent my luggage-mules and servants under his charge, and he rode off, to stop for me at a hacienda on the road, while I unsaddled my horse and gaye him another mess of corn. In the meantime the news had spread, and great excitement prev-ailed in the city. Here there was no thought of flight; the spirit of resistance was general. The impressed soldiers were brought out from i -- A STROXG PARTISA:.. 255 the prisons and furnished with arms, and drums beat through the streets for ,olunteers. On my return from the Government House I noticed a tailor on his board at work; when I passed again his horse was at the door, his sobbing wife was putting pistols in his holsters, and he was fastening on his spurs. Afterward I saw him mounted before 1.hc quartcl, receiving a lance with a rod flag, and then galloping off to take his place in the line. In two hours all that the impoverished city could do was done. Vigil, tho chief of the state, clerks, and household servants, were preparing for the last struggle. At twelve o'clock the city was as still as death. I lounged on the shady side of the plaza, and the quiet was fearfol. At two o'clock intelligence was received that the troops of San Vicente had fallen back upon Cojutepeque, and that the Honduras troops had not yet come up. An order was immediately issued to make this the rallying-place, and to send thither the mustering of the city. About 200 lancers set off from the plaza with a feeble shout, under a burning sun, and I returned to the house. The commotion subsided; my excitement died away, and I regretted that I had not set out with the captain, when, to my surprise, he rode into the courtyard. On the road he thought that he had left · me in the lurch, and that, as a travelling companion, he ought to have remained with me. 1 had no such idea, but J was glad of his return, :md mounted, and left my capital to its fate, even yet uncertain whether I had any government. The captain had given me a hint in a led horse which he kept for emergencies, and I had bought one of an officer of General ~[orazan, who sold him because he would not stand fire, and recommended him for a way he had of carrying his rider out of the reach of bullets. At the distance of two leagues we reached a, lmcienda, where our men where waiting for us with the luggage. It was occupied by a miserable old man a,lone, "·ith a, lnrge swelling under his throat, very common all through this country, the same as is seen among the mountains of Switzerland. ·while the men were reloading, we hem·d the tramp of horses, and fifteen or twenty lancers galloped up to the fence ; and the leader, a, dark, stern, but respectable-looking man about forty, in a deep voice, called to the old man to get ready a,ncl mount ; the time had come, he said, when every man must fight for his country; if they had clone so before, their own ships would bo floating on the Atlantic and the Pacific, and they ,rnulcl not now be at the mercy of strangers and enemies. Altogether the speech was a, good one, but made from the bar,k of a horse by a powerful man, well armed, and with twenty hnccrs a,t his heels, it was not pleasant in the card of the "strangers" for "·hom it was intended. Really I respected 236 Tlt.\ \"ELS I:', CENTRAL A1IERIC.L the m:m's energy, but his expression and manner precluded all courtesies ; and thongh he looked at us for an answer, we said nothing. The old man answered that he waR too old to fight, and the officer told him then to help others to do so, and to contribute his horses or mules. 'fhis touched us again ; and taking ours apart, we left exposed and alone an object more miserable as a boast than his o-n1cr was as a man. The oh! man said this was his all. The officer, looking as jf ho would like a pretext for seizing ours, told him to give her up; and the old man, slowly untying her, without a word led her to the fence, and handed the halter across to one of the lancers. They laughed as they received the old man's all, and p1·icki11g the mule with their lances, galloped off in search of more "contributions." Some time after dark we reached the hacienda of Guaramal, ancl before day-light the next morning we were in the saddle. In the m·ening \YC arrived at balco, and I again heard the deep rumbling noise of tho yolcano, sounding like distant thunder. Early in the morning we started, arrived at Zonzonate before breakfast, and rode to the house of my friend j\f. de Nouvelle. It was exactly two months since I left it, and, with the exception of my voyage on the Pacific and sickness at Costa Rica, I had not had · a clny of repose. I was now within four clays of Guatimala, but the difficulty of going on \Yas greater than ever. 'l'he captain could procure no mules. No intelligence had been received of :iiiornzan's movements; intercourse was entirely broken off, business at a stand, and the people anxiously waiting for news from Guatimala. Nobody would set out on that road. I was Yery much distressed. 'l'he rainy season was coming on, and by the loss of a month, the journey to Palcnque ,rould be prevented. I considered it actually safer to pass through while all was in this state of suspense, than after tho floodgates of war were opened. Rascon's banrl had prevented my passing the road before, and other Rascons might spring up. The captain ha.cl not the same inducement to push ahead that I ha.cl. I had no idea of incurring any unnecessary risk, and on the road would haye no hesitation at any time in putting spurs to my horse ; and on deliberate consideration, my mind was so fully ma.de up that I determined to procure a guide at any price, and set out alone. In the midst of my perplexity, a tall thin, gaunt-looking Spaniard, whose name was Don Saturnino 'l'inocha, came to see me. Ho was a merchant from Costa Rica, so far on his way to Guatimala, and, by the advice of his friends rather than his own judgment, had been already waiting a week at Zonzonatc. He was exactly in the humour .Al'ENECO. 257 to suit me, very anxious to reach Gnatimah; and his views ancl opinions were jnst the same ns mine. '.l.'he captain was indifferent, and, at all events, could not go unless he could procure mules. I told Don Satnrnino that I would go at all events, and he undertook to provide for the captain. In the evening he returned, with intelligence that he had scoured the town and could not procure a single mule, but he offered to leave two of his own cargoes and take the captain's, or to sell him two of his mules. I offered to lend him my horse or macho, and the matter was arranged. In the evening we were again in the midst of tumult. Two of Captain D'Yriarte's passengers for Guayaquil, whom he had given np, arrived that evening direct from Guatimah, and reported that Carrera, with 2,000 men, had left the city at the same time with them to march upon San Salvador. Carrera knew nothing of Morazan's approach ; his troops were a disorderly and tumultuous mass; and three leagues from the city, when they halted, the horses wero already tired. ·Here our informants slipped away, and three hours afterward met Morazan's army, in good order, marching single file, with ~Iomzan himself at their head, he and all his mwalry dismounted, and leading their horses, which were fresh and ready for immediate action. Morazan stopped them, and made them show their passports and letters, and they told him of the sally of Carrera's army, and its condition; and we all formed the conclusion that :llloraian had attacked them the same clay, defeated them, and was then in possession of Guatimala. Upon the whole, ;,e considered the news favourable to us, as his first business would be to make the roads secure. At three o'clock the next morning we were again in the saddle. A stream of fire was rolling down the volcano of Izalco, bright, but paler by the moonlight. The road was good for two leagues, when we reached the Indian village of Aguisalco. Our mules were overloaded, and one of Don Saturnino's gave out entirely. We tried to procure others or Indian carriers, but no one would move from home. Don Saturnina loaded his saddle-mule, and walked; and if it had not been for his indefatigable perscvernnce, we should have been compelled to stop. At one o'clock we reached Apeneco, and rode up to one of the best houses, where an old man and his wife undertook to give us breakfast. Our mules presented a piteous spectacle. l\Iine, which had carried my light luggage like a feather all the way from La Union, had gone on with admirable steadiness up hill and clown dale, but when we stopped she trembled in every limb, and before the cargo was removed I expected to see her fall. Nicolas and the muleteer said she would s 238 TRA YELS IN CENTRAL A:llERICA. certainly die, [Ind tl10 faithful brute seemed to look at me reproachfully for h[lving suffered so heavy [I lo[ld to be put upon her back. I tried to buy or hire m1other, but all were removed one or two days' journey out of the line of march of the soldiers. It was agreed that I should go on to Aguachapa and endeavour to have other mules ready early the next morning ; but in the meantime the captain conceived some suspicions of the old man and woman, and resolved not to remain that night in the Tillage. Fortunately, my mule revived and began to cat. Don Saturnino repeated his "'sta. bueno," with which he had cheered us through all the perplexities of the day, and we determined to set out again. Neither of us had any luggage he was willing to leaye, for in all probability he would never see it again. "\Ve loaded our sackllc-bcasts, and walked. Immediately on leaving the village we commenced asccncli11g the mountain of Aguachapa, the lo11gcst and worst in the whole road, in the wet season requiring two cla.ys to cross it. A steep pitch at the beginning ma.de me tremble for the result. The ascent was about three miles, and on the very crest, embowered among the trees, was a blacksmith's shop, commanding a view of the whole country back to the village, and on the other side, of the slope of the mountain to the plain of Aguachapa. 'l'hc clink of the hammer and the sight of a smith's grimed face seemed a profanation of the beauties of the scene. Here our ditliculties were over; the rest of our road was clown hill. The road lay along the ridge of the mountain. On our right we looked down the perpendicular side to a plain 2,000 feet below us: and in front, on another part of the same plain, were the lake and town of Aguachapa. Instead of going direct to the town, we turned round the foot of the mount.ain, and came into a field smoking with hot springs. The ground was incrusted with sulphur, and dried and baked by subterranean fires. ln some places were large orifices, from which steam rnshccl out violently and with noise, and in others large pools or lake·, one of them 150 feet in circumference, of dark brown water, boiling with monstrous bubbles three or four feet high, which Homer might have made the head-waters of Achcron. All around, for a great extent, the earth was in a state of combustion, burning our boots and frightening the horses, and we were obliged to be careful to keep the horses from falling through. At some distance was a stream of sulphur-water, which we followed up to a broad basin, maclo a dam with stones and bushes, ancl had a most refreshing warm bath. It was nearly dark when we entered the town, the frontier of the State and the outpost of danger. All were on the tiptoe of expectation for news from Guntimala. Riding through the plaza, we saw a new TIDIXGS OF DISASTEil. 259 corps of o.bont 200 "po.triot soldiers," uniformed o.nd equipped, o.t evening drill, which was a guarantee against tbe turbulence we had seen in lzalco. Colonel Angoula, the commandant, was the same who had broken up the band of Rascon. Every one we met was astonished o.t our purpose of going on to Guatimala, and it was vexatious and discouraging to have ominous cautions perpetually dinned into our cars. We rode to the house of tho widow Padilla, a friend of Don Saturnino, whom we found in great affliction. Her eldest son, on a visit to Guatimala on business, with a regular passport, had been thrown into prison by Carrera, and had then been a mouth in confinement; and she had just learned, what had been concealed from her, that the other son, a young man just twenty-one, had joined :Morazan's expedition. Our purpose of going to Guatimala opened the fountain of her sorrows. She mourned for her sous, but the case of the younger seemed to give her most distress. She mourned that bo bad become a soldier; she had seen so much of the horrors of war; and, as if speaking of a truant boy, begged us to mge Geueral :Morazau to send him home. She was still in mourning for their father, who was a personal friend of General Morazan, and bad, besides, three daughters, all young women, the eldest not more than twenty-three, married to Colonel Molina, the second in commancl; all were celebrated in that country for their beauty; and though tho circumstances of the night prevented my seeing much of them, I looked upon this as one of t.he most lady-like and interesting family groups I had seen in the country. Our first inquiry was for mules. Colonel Molino., the sou-in-law, after endeavouring to dissuade us from continuing, sent out to make inquiries, and the result was that there were none to hire, but there was a man who had two to sell, and who promised to bring them early in the morning. We had vexations enough without adding any between ourselves; but, unfortunately, the captain and Don Saturnino had an angry quarrel, growing ouL of the breaking down of the mules. I was appealecl to by both, and, in trying to keep the peace, came near having both upon me. Tho dispute was so violent that none of the female part of the family appeared in the sala, and while it was pending Colonel Molina was called off by a message from the commandant. In half an hour be returned, and told us that two solclicrs had just entered the town, who reported that :Morazan bad been defeated in bis attack on Gualimala, and his whole army routed and cut to pieces; that he himself, with fifteen drugoons, was esco.ping by the way of the coast, and the whole of Carrem's army was in full pursuit. The soldiers were at fil'St supposed to be deserters, but they s2 260 TRAVELS IN CEN'l'llAL AMERICA. were recoguisecl by some of the townspeople; and after a careful cxa.mination and calculation of the lapse of time since the last intelligence, the news was believed to be true. 'L'he consternation it created in our little household cannot he described, Morazan's defeat was the cleath-lrnell of sons and brothers. It was not a moment for strangers to offer idle consolation, and we withdrew. Our own plans were unsettled; the very clangers I feared had happened; the soldiers, who had been kept together in masses, were clislx111decl, to sweep every road in the country with the ferocity of partisan war. But for the night \\"e could do nothing. Our men were already asleep, and, not without apprchcusions, the captain and I retired to a room opening upon the courtyard. Don Saturnino v,rappecl himself in his poncha, and lay clown under the corridor. None of us undressed, but the fatigue of the clay had been so great that I soon fell into a profound sleep. At one o'clock we were roused by Colonel Molina shouting in the doorway, "La gentc viene ! " "The people are coming ! " His swOJ·d glittered, his spurs rattled, and by the moonlight I mw men saddling horses in the courtyard. We sprn,ng up in a moment, and he told us to save ourselves; "la gente" were coming, and within two hours' march of the town. My first question was, ,vhat had become of the soldiers 1 They were already marching out; everybody was preparing to fly; he intended to escort the ladies to a hiding-place in the mountains, and theu to overtake the soldiers. I must confess that my first thought was" devil take the hindmost;" and I ordered Nicolas, who was fairly blubbering with fright, to saddle for a start. The captain, however, objected, insisting that to fly would be to identify ourselves with the fugitives; and if we were o,0 ertaken with them we should certainly be massacred. Don Saturnino proposed io set out on our journey, and go straight on to a hacicncln. two leagues beyond; if we met them on the road we should appear ns travellers; in their hurry they would let us pass; and, at all events, we should avoid the dangers of a general sacking and plunder of the town. I approved of this suggestion; the fact is, I was for anything that put us on horseback; but the captain again opposed it violently. Unluckily, he had four large, heavy trunks, containing jewellery and other valuables, and no mules to carry them. I made a hurried but feeling comment upon the comparative value of life and property; but the captain said that all he was worth in tbe world was in those trunks; be would not leave them; he would not risk them on the road; he would clefeucl them as long as he had life; and, taking them up one by one from the corridor, he piled them inside of our little sleeping-room, shut the door, and swore that nobody should get into them without I l COXFUSlON AND TERROR. 261 passing over his dead body. Now I, .for my own part, would have taken a quiet stripping, and by no means approved this desperate pm·- pose of the captain's. ~'he fact is, I was very differently situated from him. M:y property was· chiefly in horse-flesh and mule-flesh, at the moment the most desirable thing in which money could be invested; and with two hours' start I would have defied all the Cachurecos in Gnatimala to catch me. But the captain's determination put an end to all thoughts of testing the soundness of my inYcstment; and p21·- haps, at all events, it was best to remain .. _ I entered the house, where the old lady and her daughters were packing up their valuables, and passed through to the street. 'l'he church bells were tolling with u frightful sonnd, and a horseman, with a red b,anneret on the point of his lance, was riding through the streets, warning the inhabitants to fly. Horses were standing before the doors saddled and bridled, ancl all along men were issuing from the doors with loads on their backs, and women with packages and bundles in their hands, and hurrying children before them. 'l'he moon was beaming with unrivalled splendour: the women did not scream, the children did not cry; terror was in every face and movement, but too deep for utterance. I walked down to the church; the cura was at the altar, receiving hurried confessions and administering the sacrament; and as the wretched inhabitants left the altar they fled from the town. I saw a poor mother searching for a missing child; but her friends, in hoarse whispers, said, "La gente Yiene ! " and hurried her away. A long line of fugitives, with loaded mules interspersed, was moving from the door of the chnrch, and disappearing beneath the brow of the hill. It was the first time I ever saw terror operating upon masses, and I hope never to sec it again. I went back to the house. 'fhe family of Padilla had not left, and the poor widow was still packing np. We urged Colonel Molina to hasten; as commandant, he would be the first victim. He knew his danger, but in a tone of voice that told the horrors of this partisan war, said he could not leave behind him the yonng women. In a few moments all was ready; the old lady gave us the key of the house, we exchanged tho Spanish farewell with a mutual recommendation to God, and sadly and silently they left the town. Colonel Jlfolina remained a moment behind. Again he urged us to fly, saying that the enemy were robbers, murderers, and assassins, who would pay no respect to person or character, and disappointment at finding the town deserted would make them outrageous with us. He drove his spurs into his horse, and we never saw him agai11. On the steps of the chnrch were sick and infirm old men and children, and the cura's house "·as thronged 262 'l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. with the sn,me helpless beings. Except these, we were left in sole possession of the town. It was not yet an hour since we had been roused from sleep. ,v e had not been able to procure any definite information as to the character of the approaching force. 'l'he alarm was, "La gente viene ;" no one knew or thought of more,-no one paid any attention to us,- and we did not know whether the whole m·my of Carrera was approaching, or merely a roving detachment. If the former, my hope was that Carrera was with them, and that he had not forgotten my diplomatic coat. I felt rejoiced that the soldiers bad marched out, 1 I and that the inhabitants had fled; there could be no resistance, no I bloodshed, nothing to excite a lawless soldiery. Again we walked down to the church; old women and little boys gathered around us, and wondered that we did not fly. We went to the door of the cura's house; the room was small, and full of old women. We tried to cheer them, but old age had lost its garrulity; they waited their fate in silence. ,v e returned to the house, smoked, and waited in anxious expectation. The enemy did not come, the bell ceased its frightful tolling, and after a while we began to wish they would come, and let us have the thing over. ,v e went out, and looked, and listened; but there was neither sound nor motion. We became positively tired of waiting·. there were still two hours to daylight; we lay down, and, strange to say, again fell asleep. I l SuRREXDER OF TIIE TO,rli. 2G3 CHAPTER XXII. A('l•ROACH 01-' CARRERA'SFORCES-TERROR OF Tin: INJJAillTANTS-TIIETR FLJGUT-SURREND.Elt OF THE TOWN-FEROCITY OF TH£ SOLDIERY-A DCLI..F.T1N-DIPT.c1MACY-A PASSPORTA BREAKFAST-AN Al.ARM-TUE WIDOW PADILLA-AN ATTACK-DEl'E AT OF CARR.ERA'S :1'0Rl'~:8-TIIE TOWN TAKEN .D\" GENERAL NOR ,U':A.S-1118 r:NTRY-TllE WIDOW'S SON-\'l!!JT TO OENEllAL ::UORAZAN-HIS APPEAUANC.E, CHARACTER, :ETC.-PL.\.NS D.ERANG£D. IT was broad daylight when we woke, without any machete cuts, and still in undisturbed possession of tho town. lily first thought was for the mules; they had eaten up their sacate, and had but a poor chance for more, but I sent them immediately to the river for wate1'. They had hardly gone when a little boy ran in from the church, and told us that "la gento" were in sight. We hurried back with him, and the miserable beiugs on the steps, with new terrors, supposing that we were friends of the invaders, begged us to save them. Followed by three or four trembling boys, ,Ye ascended to tho steeple, and saw the Cachurecos at a distance, descending tho brow of a hill in single file, their muskets glittering in the sunbeams. '\Vo saw that it was not the whole of Can-era's army, but apparently only a pioneer company; but they were too many for us, aud the smallness of their numbers gave them the appearance of a lawless predatory band. 'l.'hey had still to cross a long plain and ascend the hill on which the town was built. 'l.'he bell-rope was in reach of my hand; I gave it one strong 1mll, and telling the boys to sound loud the alarm, hurried down. As ,ye passed out of the church, we heard loud cries from the old women in the house of the cura; and tho old men and children on the steps asked us whether they would be murdered. 'l'he mules had not returned, and, afraid of their being intercepted in the street, I ran down a steep hill toward the river, and meeting them, hurried back to the honse. '\Vhile doing so I saw at tho extreme end of tho street a single soldier moving cautiously; and watching carefully every house, as if suspecting treachery, ho advanced with a letter directed to Colonel Angoula. Tho captain told him that he must seek Angouln, among the mountains. '\Ve inquired the name of his commanding officer, how many men he had, said that there was no one to oppose him, and forthwith surrendered the town. 'l'he man could hardly believe that it was deserted. General Figoroa did not know it; he had halted at a short distance, nfmid to make tho attack at night, and was then expecting immediate battle. 'l'he General himself could 261, TRAVELS IN CEi'iTRAL AMERICA. not have been much better pleased at avoiding it than we were. The envoy returned, and in a short time we saw at the extreme encl of the street the neck of a horse protruding from the cross-street on the left. A party of cavalry armed with lances followed, formed at the heatl of the street, looking about them carefully us if still suspecting an ambush. In a fow moments General Figoroa, mounted on a fierce little horse, without uniform, but with dark wool saddle-cloth, pistols, and baskethilted sword, making a warlike appearance, came up, leading the van. '\Ve took off our hats as he approached our door, and he relurned the salute. About 100 lancers followed him, two abreast, with red flags on the ends of their lances, and pistols in their holsters. Tu passing, one ferocious-looking fellow looked fiercely at us, andgrnsping his lance, cried "Viva Carrern ! " We did not answer it immediately, and he repeated it in a tone that brought forth the response louder and more satisfactory, from the spite with which it was given; the next man repeated it, and the next; and before we were aware of our position, every lancer that passed, in a tone of voice regulated by the gentleness or the ferocity of his disposition, and sometimes with a most threatening scowl, put to us us a touchstone, "Viva Carrera." The infantry were worse than the lancers in appearance, being mostly Indians, ragged, half-naked, with old straw hats, and barefooted, armed with muskets and machetes, and many with old-fashioned Spanish blunderbusses. They vied with each other in sharpness and ferocity, and sometimes actually levelling their pieces, cried at us, "ViYa Carrera." '\Ve were taken completely unawares; there was no escape, and I believe they would have shot ns clown on the spot if we had refused to echo the cry. I compromised with my dignity by answering no louder than the urgency of the case requil'cd, but I never passed through a more trying ordeal. Don Saturnino had had the prudence to keep out of sight; but the captain, who had intended to campaign against these fellows, never flinched, and when the last man passed added au extra " Viva Carrera." I again felt rejoiced that the soldiers had left the town and that there had been no fight. It would have been a fearful thing to fall into the hands of such men, with their passions roused by resistance and bloodshed. Reaching the plaza, they gave a geneml shout of "Viva Carrera," and stacked their arms. In a few minutes a party of them came doin to our house, and asked for breakfast; and when we conld not give them that, they begged a medio or sixpence. By degrees others came in, until the room was full. They were really no great gainers by taking the town. 'l'hey liad had no breakfast, and the town was completely stripped of eatables. We inquired the news from Guatimala, and bought from them A BREAKFAST. 2G3 several copies of the "Parte Official" of the Supreme Government, headed "Viva la Patria! Viva el General Carrera! 'l'he enemy has been completely exterminated in his attack upon the city, which he intended to devastate. The tyrant Morazan flies terrified, leaving the plaza and streets strewed with corpses sacrificed to his criminal ambition. 'rhe principal officers associated in his staff have perished, &c. Eternal glory to the Invincible Chief GENERAL CAll!lERA, and the valiant troops under his command." 'l'hey told us that Carrera, with 3,000 men, was in full pursuit. In a little while the demand for sixpences became so frequent, that, afraid of being supposed to have mu cha plata, we walked to the plaza to prcsen t ourselves to General Figoroa, and settle the terms of our su1Tcnder, or, at all events, to "define our position." "-e found him at the cabildo, quite at home, with a parcel of officers, white men, iiestitzoes, and mulattoes, smoking, and interrogating some old men from the church as to the movements of Colonel Angoula and the soldiers, the time of their setting out, and the direction they took. He was a young man-all the men in that country were young-about thirty-two or three, dressed in a snuffcoloured cloth roundabout jacket, and pantaloons of the same colom; and off his war-horse, and away from his assassin-like band, had very much the air of an honest man. It was one of the worst evils of this civil war that no respect was paid to the passports of opposite parties. The captain had only his San Salvador passport, which was here worse than worthless. Don Saturnine had a variety from partisan commandants, and upon this occasion made use of one from a colonel under Ferrera. '!'he captain introduced me by the title of Seiior iiinistro clel Norte America, and I made myself acceptable by saying that I had been to San Salvador in search of a government, and had not been able to find any. 'l'he fact is, although I was not able to get into regular business, I was practising diplomacy on my own account all the time; and in order to define at once and clearly our relatiYe positions, I undertook to do the honours of the town, and invi tecl General Figoroa and all his officers to breakfast. 'l'his was a bold stroke, but 'l'alleyraud could not have touched a nicer chord. 'L'hey had not eaten anything since noon the clay before, and I believe they would have evacuated their empty conquest for a good bl'eakfast all round. 'l'hcy accepted my invitation with a promptness that pnt an encl to my small stock of provisions for the road. General Figoroa confirmed the intelligence of )Iorazan's defeat and flight, and Canera's pursuit, and the " invincible chief" won Id perhaps have been somewhat surprised at the pleasure I promised myself in meeting him. 266 '.!'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. "\Yith a very few moments' interchange of opinion, we made up our minds to get out of this frontier town as soon as possible, and again to go forward. I had almost abandoned ulterior projects, and looked only to personal safety. To go back, we reasoned, would carry us into the very focus of ,rnr and danger. The San Salvador people were furious against strangers, and the Honduras troops were invading them on one side, and Can·era's hordes on the other. To remain where we were was certain exposure to attacks from both parties. By going on we should meet Can-era's troops, and if we passed them we left war behind us. We had but one risk, and that would be tested in a day. Under this belief, I told the general that we designed proceeding to G uatimala, and that it would add to our security to have his passport. It was the general's first campaign. He was then only a few days in service, having set off in a hurry to get possession of this to"·n, and cut off :Morazan's retreat. He was flatter0<l by tho request, and said that his })assport would be indispensable. His aid and secretary had been clerk in an apothecary's shop in Guatimala, and therefore understood the respect due to a ministro, and said that be would make it out himself. I ,rns all eagerness to get possession of this passport. The captain, in courtesy, &<tid we were in no hurry. I dismissed courtesy, and said that we were in a hurry; that we must set out immediately after breakfast. I was afraid of postponements, delays, and accidents, and in spite of impediments and inconveniences, I persisted till I got the secretary down at the table, who, without any trouble, and by a mere flourish of the pen, made me "ministro plenipotentiario." 'rhe captain's name was inserted in the passport, General Figoroa signed it, and I put it in my pocket, after which I breathed more freely. "\Ve returned to the house, and in a few minutes the general, his secretary, and two mulatto officers came over to breakfast. It was very considerate in them that they did not bring more. Our guests cared more for quantity than quality, and this was tho particular in which we ,rere most deficient. We had plenty of chocolate, a stock of bread for the road, and some eggs that were found in the house. 'IV e put on the table all that we had, and gave tho general the seat of honour at the head. One of the officers preferred sitting awtty on a bench, and eating his eggs with his fingers. It is unpleasant for a host to be obliged to mark the quantity that his guests eat, but I must say I was agreeably disapvointed. If I had been breakfasting with them instead of vice versa, I could have astonished them as much as their voracious ancestors did the Indians. 'fhe breakfast was a neat fit; t here was none over, and I bolieve nothing short. There ,vas but one unpleasant circumstance. attending upon it, viz. , i AK ALARM. 267 General Figoroa requested us to wait an hour, until he could prepare despatches to Carrera, advising him of his occupation of Aguachapa. I was extremely anxious to get away while the game was good. Of General Figoroa and his secretary we thought favourably; but we saw that he had no control over his men, and as long as we were in the town we should be subject to their visits, inquiries, and importunities, and some difficulties might arise. At the same time, despatches to Carrera would be a great security on the road. Don Saturnino undertook to set· off with the luggage, and we, glad of the opportunity of travelling without any encumbrance, charged him to push on as fast as he could, not to stop for us, and we would overtake him. In about an hour we walked over to the plaza for the despatches, but unluckily found ourselves in a new scene of confusion. Figoroa was already in the saddle, the lancers were mounting in haste, and all running to arms. A scout had brought in ,,ord that Colonel Angoula, with the soldiers of the town, was ho,ering on the skirts of the mountain, and our friends were hurrJ;ng to attack them. In a moment the lancers were off on :, gallop, and the ragged infantry snatched up their guns and ran after them, keeping up with the horses. The letter to Carrera was palily written, and the aide-de-camp asked us to wait, telling us that the affair would soon be over. He was left in command of about seventy or eighty men, and we sat down with him under the co1Tidor of the quartcl. He was several yea'l:s younger than Figoroa, more intelligent, and seemed very amiable except on political matters, and there he was savage against the Morazan party. He was gentlemanly in his manners, but his coat was out at the elbows, and his pantaloons were tom. He said he had a new frock-coat, for which he had paid sixteen dollars, but which did not fit him, and he wished lo sell it. I afterwards spoke of him io one of Morazan's officers, whom I would believe implicitly except in regard to political opponents, who told me ihat this same secretary stole a pair of pantaloons from him, and he had no doubt the coat was stolen from somebody else. There was no order or di>-ciplinc among the men; the soldiers lay a1out the quartel, joined in the conversation, or strolled through the town, as they pleased. The inhabitants had fortunately carried away everything portable: two or three times a foraging party returned with a horse or mule; and once they were all roused by an alarm that A ngonla was returning upon the town in another direction. l mmediatcly all matched up their arms, and at least one half, without a moment's waming, took to their heels. We had a fair chance of bavin" the town a[!llin upon our hands, but the alarm prowd groundlc,s. 0 1\'c could 1~oi, however, but foe] uncomfortable at the facility 2G8 TRAVELS IN CEXTRAL A1IERICA . with which our friends abandoned us, and the risk we ran of being identified with them. There ,Yei·e three brothers, the only hmcers who did not go out with Figoroa, white men, young and athletic, the best dressed and best armed in the company, swaggering in their manner, and disposed to cultivate an acquaintance with us. They told us that they purposed going to Guatimala; but I shrank from them instincti,·ely, eluded their questions as to when we intended to set out, and I afterwards heard that they were natives of the town, and had been compelled to leave it on account of their notorious characters as assassins. One of them, as \\"O thought, in a mere spirit of bravado, provoked a quarrel ,Yith the aide-de-camp, strutted before the quarto], and, in the hearing of all, said that they wore under no man's orders; they only joined General Figoroa to please themselves, and would do as they thought proper. In the meantime, a few of the townsmen who had nothing to lose, among them an alguazil, finding there was no massaorcing, had returned or emerged from their hiding-places; and ·we procured a guide to be ready the moment General Figoroa should return, went back to the house, and io our surprise found the widow Padilla there. She had been secreter! somewhere in the neighbourhood, and had heard, by means of an old woman-servant, of the general's breakfasting with us, and our intimacy ,rith him. We inquired for her daughters' safety, but not where they were, for we had already founcl that we could ans\\·er inquiries better when \YC knew nothing. ,ve waited till four o'clock, and hearing nothing of General Figoroa, made up our minds that we should not get off till e,eniug. We therefore strolled up to the extreme end of the street, where Figeroa had entered, and where stood the ruins of an old church. ,ve sat on the fonndation walls, and looked through the long and desolate street to the plaza, where were a few stacks of muskets and some soldiers. All around were mountains, and among them rose the beautiful and I verdant volcano of Chingo. , vhilc sitting there, two women rm, past, and, telling us that the soldiers were returning in that direction, hid themselves among the ruins. ,ve turned down a road, and were intercepted on a little eminence, where we were obliged to stop and look clown upon them as they passed. We saw that they were irritated by an unsuccessful clay's work, and that they had found agua ardientc; for many of them were drunk. A drummer on horseback, and so tipsy that he could hardly sit, stopped the line to glorify General Carrera. Very soon they commenced the old touchstone, "Virn Carrera!" and one follow, with the strap of his knapsack across his naked shoulders, again stopped the whole line, and turning round, with a ferocious expression, said, "You are counting us, are you 1" ' A~ ATTACK. 269 "' e disappeared, and by another street got back to the house. "' e waited a moment, and, determined to get out of the town and sleep at the first hacienda on the road, left the bousc to go again to General Figoroa for his despatches; but before reaching it we saw new confusion in the plaza, a general remounting and rushing to arms. 1\s soon as General Figoroa saw us, he spurred his horse down the street to meet us, and told us, in great baste, that General Morazan was approaching, and almost upon the town. He had that moment received tho news, and was going out to attack him. He had no time to sign the despatches, and while he was speaking tho lancers galloped past. He shook hands, bade us good-bye, hasta lucgo (until presently), asked us to call upon Carrera in case we did not see him again, and clashing down the line, put himself at the head of the lancers. 'l'he foot-soldiers followed in single file on a run, ca.rrying their m·ms as was most convenient. In the hurry ancl excitement we forgot ourseh·eA till we heard some flattering epithets, and saw two follows shaking their muskets at us with the cxprcs.ion of fiends; but, hurried on by those bebind, they cried out ferociously, " Estos picaros otro vcz," "Those 111scals again." 'l'bc last of the line had hardly clisnppearecl before we hoard a volley of musketry, and in a moment fifty or sixty men left in the plaza snatched up their arms, and ran down a street opening from the plaza. Very soon a horse without a rider came clattering down the street at full speed; three others followed, and in five minutes we saw thirty or forty horsemen, with our friend Figoroa at their head, clash across the street, all running for their lh·es; but in a few moments they rallied and returned. "' e walked toward the church, to ascend the steeple, when a sharp volley of musketry rolled up the street on that side, and before we got back into the house there was firing along the whole length of ihe street. ,v e knew that a chance shot might kill a non combatant, and secured the doors and windows; but finally, as the firing was sharp, and the balls went beyond us, and struck the houses on the opposite side, with an old 1,ervant-woman (what bad become of the widow I clo not know), we retired into a small room on the courtyard, with delightful walls, and a door three inches thick, and bullet-proof, sbniting which, and in utter darkness, we listened valiantly. Here we considered ourselves out of harm's way, but we had serious apprehensions for the result. The spirit on both sides was to kill; giving quarter was not thought of. i\Iorazan's pmty was probably small, but they would not be taken without a desperate fight; and from the sharpness of the firing, and the time occupied, there was probably a sanguinary affair. Our quondam friends, 1·oused by bloo,fahe<l, wonncls, and loss of companions, 270 TR.t VELS IN CEK'l'RA.L AMERICA, without any one to control them, would be very likely to connect "those rascnls" with the nrrival of Morazan. I will not say that we wished they might all be killed, but we did wish that their bad blood might be let out, and that was nlmost the same thing. In fact, I did most earnestly hope never to see their faces again. I preferred being taken by nny roving band in the country rather than by them, and never felt more relieved than "·hen we heard the sound of rt bugle. It was the Moramn blast of victory; and, though sounding fiercely the "\\'ell-known notes of" degolhr, degollar," "cut-throat, cut-throat," it was music to our ears. V cry soon we beard the tramp of cavalry, and leaving our hiding-place, returned to the sala, a~d heard a cry of " Yiva la Federacion ! " This was a cheering sound. It was now dark. We opened the door au inch or two, but a lancer riding by struck it open with his lance, and asked for water. We gave him a large calabash, which another took from his hands. "\Ve threw open the door, and kept two large calabashes on the sill; and tbe soldiers, as they passed, took a hasty draught. Asking a question of each, we learned that it was General Uorazan himself, with the survivors of his expedition against Guatimala. Our house was well known; many of the officers inquired for the family, and an aid-de-camp gave notice to the servant-woman that Morazan himself intended stopping there. The soldiers marched into the plaza, stacked their arms, and shouted " Viva )lorazan ! " In the morning the shout was, " Viva Carrera!" None cried " Yi va la Patria!" There was no encl to our troubles. In the morning we surrendered to one party, and in the evening were captured out of their hands by another; probably before daylight Carrera would be upon us. Thero was only one comfort : the fellows who had broken our rest the night before, and scared the inhabitants from their homes, were now looking out for lodgings in the mountains themselves. I felt sorry for Figoroa and his aid, and on abstract principles, for the killed, As for the rest, I cared but little what became of them. In a few moments a party of officers came down to our house. For six clays they had been in constant flight through au enemy's country, changing their direction to avoid pmsuit, and only stopping to rest their horses. Entering under the excitement of a successful skirmish, they struck me as the finest set of men I had seen in the country. Figoroa bad come upon them so suddenly, that General Morazan, who rode at the head of his men, had two bullets pass by his head before he could draw his pistol, and he had a nanower escape than in the whole of his bloody battle in Guatimala. Colonel Cabanas, a small, quiet, geutlemanly man, the commander of the troops massacred in Hondurns, TUE WIDOW'S SOXS. 271 strnck the first blow, broke his sword over a lancer, and, wresting the lance out of its owner's hands, ran it through his body, but was wounded himself iu the haud. A tall, gay, rattling young man, who was wiping warm blood from off his sword, aud drying it on his pocket. handkerchief, mourned that he had failed in cutting off their retreat; and a quiet mirlclle-aged man, wiping his forehead, drawled out that if their horses had not been so tired they would ha,e killed every man. Even tl10y talked only of killing; taking prisoners was never thought of. The verb mata,·, to kill, with its inflexions, was so continually ringing in my ears that it made me nervous. In a few minutes the widow Padilla, who, I am inclined to believe, was .secreted somewhere in the neighbourhood, knowing of General llforazan's approach, rushed in, crying wildly for her sons. All answered that the eldest was with them; all knew her, and one after another put his right arm respectfully over her shoulder and embraced her; but the young man who was wiping his sword drove it into its scabbard, and, catching her up in his arms, lifted her off the floor and whirled her about the room. The poor old lady, half laughing and half crying, told him he was as bad as ever, and continued asking for her sons. At this moment a man about forty, whom I had noticed before as the only one without arms, with a long beard, pale and haggard, entered from the court-yard. The old lady screamed, rushed toward him, and fell on his neck, and for some moments rested her head upon his shoulder. This was the one who had been imprisoned by Carrera. General l\iorazan had forced his way into the plaza, broken open the prisons, and liberated the inmates; and when he was driven out, this son made his escape. But where was her younger and clearer son 1 The young man answered that he had escaped and was safe. The old lady looked at him with distrust, and, calling him by his Christian name, told him he was deceiving her; but he persisted and swore that he had escaped; he himself had given him a fresh horse; he was seen outside the barrier, was probably concealed somewhere, and would soon make his appearance. The other officers b:;id no positive knowledge. One had seen him at such a time, and another at such a time during the battle ; and all agrnecl that the young man ought to know best, for their posts were near each other; and he, young, ardent, and reckless, the dearest friend of her Hou, and loving her as a mother, told me afterwanl that she should ha,·c one night's comfort, and that she would know the tmth soon enough; bnt tho brother, narrowly escaped from death himself, and who looked as if smiles had been for ever driven from his face, told me he had no douht his mother's darling was killed.·· • I have lately learned that he csca1Jcd1 and is now s:i.fc "ith lils mother in Aguai}1apa. 272 'l'RA YELS IN CENTRAL A)!ElUCA. During these scenes the captain imcl I were not unnoticed. Tho captain found among the officers sevcrnl whom he had become acquainted with at the port, and he learned that others h!tll made theil' last c;;mpuign. In the first excitement of meeting them, he detormined to turn back and follow their broken fortunes; but, luckily for me, those trunks had gone on. He felt that he had a narrow escape . .Among those "·ho hall accompanied Gcnernl Morazan were the former secretary of state and ,var, and all the principal officers, civil and military, of the shattered general government. They hud heurcl of my nrrival in the country. I had been expected at San Sulvador, was known to them all by \'cputation, and very soon personally; particularly I became acquainted with Colonel Sumvia, u young man about twenty-eight, handsome, brnvc, and accomplished in mind and manners, "·ith un enthusiastic attachment for Genernl ::',Iorazan, from whom, in referring to one affair in the attack on Guatimala, with tears almost starting from his eyes, he said, Providence seemed to turn the bullets t1,"·ay. I had often heard of this gentleman in Gtmtimala, and his case shows the unlmppy rending of :[Jrivate and social ties produced Ly these civil wars. His father was banished by the Liberal party eight yeaL"s before, and mis then a goneml in the Carlist service in Spain. His mother and three sisters lived in Guatimala, and I bad visited at their house perhaps oftener than at any other in that city. '!.'hey lived near the plaza, and while ::',Iorazan had possession of it, the colonel had run home to see them; and in the midst of a distracted meeting, rendered more poignunt by the circumstance of his being joined in an attack upon his native city, he was called away to go into action; his horse "·as shot under him, he ,ms wounded, and escaped with the wreck of the army. His mother and sisters knew nothing of his fate. He said, what I was sure was but too true, that they would have dreadful apprehensions about him, and bogged me, immediately on my arriv!tl at Guatimala, to visit them and inform them of his safety. In the meantime, General Morazan, appL"ehensivo of a surprise from Carrera during the night, sent word that ho should sleep in the pluzu; and escorted by Colonel Saravia, I wont to 1my my respects to him. From the ti me of his entry I felt perfectly secure, and never had a moment of apprehension from unruly soldiers. For the first time I saw something like discipline. A sentinel wa.s pacing the street leading from the plaza, to prevent the soldiers straggling into the town; but the poor fellows seemed to huvo no disposition for str.iggling. 'l'he town was stripped of everything; even the poor horses had no food. Some were gathered at the window of tho cabildo, CHARACTER OF GENERAL MORA.ZAN. 2i3 each in his turn holding up his hat for a portion of hard corn bread; some were sitting around fires, eating this miserable fare; but most were stretched on the ground, already asleep. It was the first night they had lain clown except in an enemy's country. General Morazan, with several officers, was standing in the corridor of the cabildo; a large fire was bmning before the door, and a table stood against the wall, with a candle and chocolatc-•cups upon it. He was about forty-five years old, five feet ten inches high, thin, with a black moustache and week's beard, and wore a military frock-coat, buttoned up to the throat, and sword. His hat was off, and the ex·• prcssion of his face mild and intelligent. Though still young, for ten years he had been the first man in the country, and eight, President of the Republic. He had risen and had sustained himself by military skill and personal bravery; al ways led his forces himself; had been in innumerable battles, and often wounded, but never beaten. A year before, the people of Guatimala, of both parties, had implored him to come to their relief, as the only man who could save them from Carrera and destruction. At that moment he added another to the conntlcss instances of the fickleness of popular favour. After the expiration of his term he had been elected chief of the state of San Salvador, which office he had resigned, and then acted as commancler-inchief under the Federal Government. Denounced personally, and the Federation nuder which he served disavowed, he had marched against Guatimala with 1,400 men, and forced his way into the plaza; forty of his oldest officers and his eldest son were shot down by his side; and entting his way through masses of human flesh, with about 450 men then in the plaza, made his escape. I was presented to him by Colonel Saravia. From the best information I could acquire, and from the enthnsiasm with which I had heard him spoken of by his officers, and, in fact, by every one else in his own State, I had conceived almost a feeling of admiration for General nlorazan, and my interest in him was increased by his misfortunes. I was really at a loss how to address him; and while my mind was full of his ill-fated expedition, his first question was if his family had arrived in Costa Rica, or if I had hem·cl anything of them. I did not tell him, what I then thought, that his calamities would follow all who were connected with him, and probably that his wife and daughters would not be permitted an asylum in that state; bnt it spoke Yolumes that, at such a moment, wit.h the wreck of his followers before him, and the memory of his murdered companions fresh in bis mind, in the oYerthrow of all his hopes and fortunes, his heart turned to his domestic relations. He ex pressed his sorrow for the condition iu which I saw his unhappy countr·y; regretted that my T 274 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMEl\ICA. visit was at such a most unfortunate moment; spoke of ~fr. De Witt, and the relations of that country with Olll'S, and his regret that our treaty had not been renewed, and that it could not be done now; but these things were not in my mind. Feeling that he must have more important business, I remained but a short time, and returned to the house. The moon had risen, and I was now extremely anxious to set out, but our plans were entirely deranged. The guide whom wo had engaged to conduct us to the Rio Paz was missing, and no other could be found; in fact not a man could be induced, eithe1· by promises or tln·eats, to leave the town that night from fear of falling in with the routed troops. Several of the officers took chocolate with us, and at the head of the table sat a priest with a sword by his side. I had breakfasted men who would have been happy to cnt their throats, and they were now hiding among the mountains or riding fol' life. If Carrera came, my new friends would be scattered. They all withdrew early, to sleep under anus in the plaza, and we were left with the widow and her son. A distressing scene followed, of inquiries and forebodings by the widow for her younger son, which the elder could only get rid of by pleading excessive fatigue, and begging to be permitted to go to sleep. It was rather singular, but it had not occurred to us before to inquire about the dead and wounded in the skirmish. There were none of the latter; all who fell were lanced, and the dead were left on the ground. He was in the rear of the ~loraz:m party; the fire was scattering; but on the line by which he enttrcd the town he counted eighteen bodies. ' VISIT FROM GENERAL MORAZAN. 275 CHAPTER XXIII. V I SIT FROM GEXERAL MORAZAN-END OF HIS CAREER-PROCURING A GUIDE-DEPARTURE FOR GUATIMALA-FRlGHT OF TUE PEOPLE-THE R.IO :PAZ-HACIENDA OF PAl'>flTA-A FORTUNATE ESCAPE-HACIENDA OP SAN Jost-AN AWKWARD PREDICA)1El(T-A. RIND HOSTRANCIIO OP BOC'TlLLA-ORATOlllO AND LEON-RIO DE LOS ESCLAVOS-TUE VtLLAGEAPPROACU TO GUATJMALA-ARRI\'AL AT GUATJMALA-A SKETCH 01:' THE WARS-DEFEAT Ol<' MOUAZAN-SCENE Ol:' :M ASSACllE. IN the morning, to our surprise, we found several shops open, and people in the street, who had been concealed somewhere in the neighbourhood, and returned as soon as they knew of )Iorazan's entry. The alcalde reappeared, and our guide was found, but he would not go with us, and told the alcalde that he might kill him on the spot; that he would rather die there than by the hands of the Cachurccos. , vhile I was taking chocolate, General l'liorazan called upon me. Our conversation was longer and more general. I did not ask him his plans or purposes, but neither he nor his officers exhibited despondency. Once reference was made to the occupation of Santa Anna by General Cascara, and with a spirit that reminded me of Claverhouse in " Old Mortality," he said, ",ve shall visit that gentleman soon." He spoke without malice or bitterness of the leaders of the Central party, and of Carrera as an ignorant and lawless Indian, from whom tho party that was now using him would one day be glad to be protected. He referred, with a smile, to a charge current among the Cachnrccos of an effort made by him to have Carrera assassinated, of which a great parade had been made, with details of time and place, and which was generally believed. He had supposed the whole story a fabrication; but accidentally, in retreating from Guatimala, he found himself in the very house where the attempt was said to have been made; and the man of the house told him that Carrera, having offered outrage to a member of his family, he himself had stabbed him, as was supposed mortally; and in order to account for his wounds, and turn away inquiries from the cause, it was fastened upon Morazan, and so flew all through the country. One of his officers accompanied the story with details of the outrage; and I felt very sure that, if Carrera ever fell into his hands, he would shoot him on the spot. With the opinion that he entertained of Carrem and his soldiers, he of course consiilercd it unsafe for us to go on to Guatimala. But I was exceedingly anxious to set out; and the flush of excitement over, as T2 l 2i6 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL .AJIIE!lICA. tho c:iptain's trunks had gone on, he was equally so. Carrera might arrive at any moment, in which case we might again change owners, or, at all events, be the witnesses of a sangµinary battle, for Uorazau would defend the frontier town of his own State to tho death. I told General Morazan my wish and pmpose, and the difficulty of procuring a guide. He said that an escort of soldiers would expose us to certain danger; even a single soldier, without his musket and cartridge-box (these being the only distinguishing marks of a soldier), m:ght be recognised; but he would send for the alcalcle, and procure us some trusty person from the town. I bade him farewell with an interest g1·cater than I had felt for any man in the country. Little did we then know the calamities that were still in store for him; that very night most of his soldiers clesc1-tecl, having been kept together only by the clanger to "'·hich they ,,ere expo sed while in an enemy's country. ,vith the rest he marched to Zonzonato, seized a vessel at the port, manning her \\'ith his own men, and sent her to Libertacl, the port of San Salvador. I-Io then marched to the capital, where the people, who had for years idolized him in power, turned thoh· backs upon him in misfortune, and received him with open insults in the streets. With many of his officers, who were too deeply compromised to remain, he embarked for Chili. Suffering from confinement on board a small -vessel, he stovped in Costa Rieu, and asked permission for some of them to land. He did not ask it for himself, for he knew it would be refused. Leaving some of them behind, ho went on to join his family in Chili. Amid the fierceness of party spirit it was impossible for a stranger to form a true estimate of the character of a public man. The groat outcry against General 1Iorazan was hostility to the church, and forced loans. For his hostility to the chmch thorn is the j ustification, that it is at this day a pall upon the spirit of free institutions, degrading and debasing instead of elevating the Christian character; and for forced loans constant wars may plead. His worst enemies admit that ho was exemplary in his private relations, and, what they consider no small pmiso, that ho was not sanguinary. He is now fallen and in exile, probably for ever, under sentence of death if he returns; all the truckling worshippers of a rising sun are blasting his name and memory; but I verily believe-and I know I shall bring do\\'n upon me the indignation of the whole Central party by the assertionI verily believe tlwy have driven from their shores the best man in Central America .* The population of the town was devoted to General Uomzan, and . * General l\forazan returned about a year after these occurrences to Costa. Rica, was carturert, tied to a tree, a nd ahot.-F. C. I DEPARTURE ~-on GUATLl!ALA. 277 an old man brought to us his son, a young man about twenty-two, as a guide; but when he leamed that we wanted him to go with us all the way to Rio Paz, he left us, as he said, to procure a horse. "\Ve waited nearly m, hour, when the old man reappeared with a little boy about ten years old, dressed in a st:iw hat and shirt, and mounted on a bare-backed horse. 'rhe young man had disappeared, and could not be found; in fact, he was afraid to go, and it was thought this little boy would run less risk. I was never much disturbed by general reports of robbers or assassins, but there was palpable danger in meeting any of the routed troops. Desperate by defeat, and assassin-like in disposition; not very amiable to us before; and now, from having seen us lounging about the town at that inauspi- .cious moment, likely to connect us with the movements of Morazan, I believed that if we fell in with them we should be mnrdcrcd. But, on the other hand, they had not let the grass grow under their feet; had probably been flying all night, in apprehension of pnrsuit; shunning the main road, had perhaps crossed the Rio Paz, and, once in Guatimala, had dispersed to their own villages; besides which, the rout had been so total that they were probably escaping three or four together, and would be as likely to run from us as we from them. At all events, it was better to go than wait till Carrera came upon the town. 1Vith those calculations and really uncomfortable feelings, we bade farewell to some of the office,·s who were waiting to see us off, and at nine o'clock set out. Descending from tho table-land on which tho town is built, we entered an open plaiu, over which we could see to a great distance, and which would furnish, if necessary, a good field for the evolutions of our cavalry. vVe passed the Lake of Aguachapa, the beauty of which, under other circumstances, would have attracted our admiration; and as our little guide seemed at fault, we stopped at a hut to inquire the road. 'riie people were afraid to answer any questions. :B'igoroa's soldiers and Morazan's had passed by, hut they did not know it; they could not tell whether any fugitive soldiers had passed, and only knew the road to the Rio Paz. It was easy to see that they thought of nothing else; hut they said they were poor people, aud at work all the time, and did not know what ,ms going on. In half an hour we met three Indians, with loads of pottery on their hacks. The poor fellows pulled off their hats, and trembled when we inq uircd if there were any routed soldiers on before. It occurred to us that this inquiry would expose us to the suspicion of being officers of Jlforazan in pursuit, and that if we met any one, we bad better ask no questions. Beyond this _ there were many roads, all of which, the 278 TR_\.YELS IN CENTRAL A:llERICA. boy S[lio, led to the Rio Paz; but he had never been there before, and did not know the right one. ,vc followed one which took us into the woods, and soon commenced descending. The road ,ms broken, stony, and very steep; we descended rapidly, and soon it was manifest no horses Imel passed on this road for a long time before. Trees lay across it so low that we dismounted, and were obliged to slip our high-peaked saddles to pass under them. It was evidently au old cattle-path, now disused even by cattle. "' e descended some distance farther, and I proposed to return. My only argument was, that it was safer; we knew we were wrong, and might get clown so low that om· physical strength ·would not carry us back. The captain said that I had chosen this path ; if we had followed his advice, we should ham been safe, and now that it wa8 impossible to return. ,ve Imel an angry quarrel, and, fortunately, in consideration of my having led into the difficulty, I gave way, and very soon we were cheered by hearing below us the rushing of the river. After a most difficult descent, we reached the bank; but hero there was no fording-place, and no path on the opposite side. The river itself was beautiful. Tho side which we had descended was a high and almost perpendicular mountain, and on both sides trees spread their branches over the ,rnter. It was called the River of Peace, but -was now the dividing-line of dcaclly war, the boul1llary between Guatimala and San Salvador. The inhabitants of the opposite side were in an enemy's country, and the routed troops, both of :Morazan and Figoroa, had fled to it for refuge. Riding some distance up the stream, we worked our wny across, aud on the opposite side found a guacal, or drinking-shell, which had probably been left there by some flying soldier. We drank from it, as if it had been intended for our use, and left it on the bank for the benefit of the 1iext comer. "'e were now in the State of Guatimala, on the banks of a wild riYcr, ,Yithout any visible path j and our situation was rather more precarious than before, for here the routed soldiers would consider themselves safe, and probably many, after a day and night of toil and fighting, would lie down to rest. "~e were fortunate in regard to a path; for, riding a short distance through the woods, along the bank of the river, we struck one which tumccl off to the left, and terminated in the camino real, leading from the regular fording-place. Herc we dismissed our little guide, and set out on tho main road. The face of the country ·was entirely changed, broken and stony, and we saw no one till we reached the hacicl1lb of Palmita. This, too, seemed desofate. ·we entered the yard, and did not see a single person till ,rn A L17CKY ESCAPE. 279 pushed open the door of the house. The proprietor was an old gentleman, opposed to Morazan, who sat in the sala with his wife's saddle and his own, and two bundles of bed and bedding packed up on the floor, ready for a start. He seemed to feel that it was too late, and with an air of submission answered our questions, and then asked us how many men we had with us. It was amusing that, while half frightened to death ourselves, we carried terror wherever we went. We relieved him by inquiring about Don Saturnino and our luggage, remounted, and rode on. In an hour we reached the hacienda de! Cacao, where Don Saturnino was to sleep. Owing to the position of the ground, we came suddenly upon the front of the house, and saw under the piazza three Cachureco soldiel'S, eating tortillas. They saw us at the same moment, snatched up their muskets, and ran; but suddenly one stopped, and levelled at us a blunderbuss. The baiTel looked as big as a church door, and seemed to cover both the captain and me. 1,Ve were in awful clanger of being shot by mistake, when one of them rnshecl back, knocked up the blunderbuss, and, crying out, "Amigos, los Ingleses ! " gave us a chance to reach them. This amiable and sensible young Cachureco vagabond was one of those who had paid us a visit to beg a breakfast and a medio. Probably there never was a sixpence put out at better interest. He had seen us intimate "'ith }'igoroa, and, taught by his betters to believe that General Morazan was a cut-throat and murderer, and not conceiving that we could be safe with him, considered us sharers of the same danger, and inquired how we had escaped. As it turned out, we were extremely happy to meet with these; another pai-ty might have received us very differently; and they relieved us in an important point, for they told us that most of the routed soldiers had fled on the Santa Anna road. Don Saturnine had passed the night at this hacienda, and set out very early in the morning. 'l'he soldiers returned to finish their meal, and, giving their thanks in payment, set out again with us. They had a good horse which they had stolen on the road, and which they said paid them very well for the expedition, and rode by turns bare-backed. Passing El Cacao, their appearance created a sensation, for they brought the first intelligence of the rout of Figeroa. This was ominous news, for all had considered hlorazan completely crushed by his defeat at Guatimala. In his retreat, he had avoided the villages, and they did not know that he had escaped with so strong a force. "\Ve endeavoured to procure a guide, but not a man could be induced to leave the village, and -we rode on. In a short time it begm1 to rain : the road was very stony, and we crossed a high, bleak volcanic mountain. Late in the afternoon, the captain con- 280 '!.'RAVELS IN CENTRAL AlllERICA, ceivcd suspicions of the soldiers, and we rode on very unceremoniou ly, leavin" them behind. A bout five o'clock, we avoided the road that kd to a ;illagc, and taking el Camino de los Partidos, which was very rough and stony, soon came to a place where there were branches, un<l we were at a loss which to take; but the course lay through a broacl rnlley, bounded by two ranges of mountains. "\Ve felt sure that our road did not cross either of these ranges, and these were our only guides. A little before <lurk, we passed beyond the range of mountains, and on our right saw a road leading into the woods, and presently heard the sound of a bell, aud saw through the trees a hacienda, to arrive at which we had to go on some distance, and then turn back by a private road. It was situated in a large clearing, with cocina and sheds, and a large sugar.mill. Twenty or thirty workmen, principally Indians, "Were assembled to give an account of their day's work, and receive orders for the next. Our appearance created a sensation. 'l'he proprietors of the hacienda, two brothers, stood in the door while we were talking with the men, and we rode up and asked permission to stop there for the night. The elder assented, but with an embarrassment that showed the state of alarm and suspicion existing in the country. The gentlemen wore the common hacienda dress, and the interior was miserably poor, but had a hammock, and two rude frames with matting over them for beds. There was a small room adjoining, in which was the wife of one of them with a child. The proprietors were men of education and intelligence, thoroughly acquainted with the condition of the country; and we told them what had happened at Aguacbapa, and that we were hurrying on to Guatimala. We had supper at a small table, ]>laced between the hammock and one of the beds, consisting of fried eggs, frigoles, and tortilfas, as usual without knife, fork, or spoon. After supper our elder host was called out, but in a few minutes retm·ned, and, closing the door, tolu us that there was a great excitement among the workmen on om account. They did not believe our story of going to Guatimala, for a woman had seen us come in from the Guatimala road, and they believed that we were officers of 11.forazan retreating from the attack on Guatimala, and endeavoming to escape into San Salvador. Here was a ground of suspicion we bad not anticipated. The gentleman was much agitated; he regretted that be was obliged to violate the laws of hospitality, but said we knew the distracted state of the country, and the frenzy of party spirit. Ho himself was against Morazan, his men were violent Cachurccos, and at this moment capable of committing any outrage. He bad incun·ed great peril by receiving us for a moment under his roof, and begged I I I, AN AWKWARD PilEDICA:UENT. 281 us, both for our own sake and his, to leave his house; adding that, e,en if we were of those unfortunate men, our horses should be brought up and we should go away unharmed; more he could not promise. Now if we had really been the fugitives he supposed us, we should no doubt have been very thankful for his kindness; bnt to be turned out by mistake in a dark night, an unknown country, and without any guide, was almost as bad as coming at us with a blunderbuss. Fortunately, he was not a suspicious man; if he had been another Don Gregorio we should have "walked Spanish;" and, more fortunately still, my pertinacity had secured Figoroa's passport; it was the only thing that could have cleared our character. I sholl'ed it to him, pointing to the extra, flourish which the secretary had made of plenipotentiario, and I believe he was not more astonished at finding who had honoured him by taking possession of his house, than pleased that we were not J\Iora.zan's officers. Though an intelligent man, he had passed a retired life on his hacienda. He had heard of such a thing as " a ministro plenipotentiario,'' but had never seen one. J\Iy accoutrements and the eagle on my hat sustained the character, and he called in the major-domo and two leading men on the hacienda, read to them the passport, and explained to them the character of a ministro plenipotentiario, while I sat upon the bed with my coat off and hat on to show the eagle, and the captain suppressed all partialities for J\Iorazan, and talked of my intimacy with Carrem. The people arc so suspicious that, having once formed an idea, they do not willingly abandon it, and it was uncertain whether all this would satisfy them; but our host was warm in his efforts, the major-domo was flattered by being made the medium of communicating with the men, and his influence was at stake in satisfying them. It was one of Talloymnd's maxims, never to do to-day what you can put off till to-morrow. Ou this occa.sion at least of my diplomatic career I felt tho benefit of the old opposite rule. From the moment I saw Figoroa I had au eye only to getting his passport, and did not rest until I had it in my pocket. If we had waited to receive this with his letters, we should now have been in a bad position. If we escaped immediate violence, we should have been taken to the village, shut u.p in tho cabildo, and exposed to all tho dangers of an ignorant populace, at that moment excited by learning the success of Morazan and the defeat of Figoroa. Iu setting out, our itlca was that, if taken by the Cachurccos, we should be carried up to Guatimala; but we found that there was no accountability to Guatimala; the people were in a state to act entirely from impulses, and nothing could induce any party of men to sot out for Guatimala, or nnclor any circumstances to go farther than from village to village. 282 TR'1 VELS TN CENTRAL MIERICA. 'l'his difficultv over, the major-domo promised us a guide before davlight for the ;1ext village. At three o'clock "·c wore awakened by the creaking of the sugar-mill. We waited till daylight for a guide, but as none came we bade farewell to our kind host, and set out alone. Tho name of the hacienda is San Jose, but in the hurry of my movements I never learned the name of the proprietor. In the constant revolutions of Central America, it may happen that he will one day be flying for his life; in his hour of need, may he meet a heart as noble as bis own ! At a distance of five leagnes we reached the rancho of Hocotilla, where Don Saturnino and our men had slept. The road lay in a magnificent ravine, with a fine bottom land and noble mountain sides. We passed through the straggling settlements of Oratorio and Leon, mostly single huts, where several times we saw women snatch up their children and run into the woods at sight of us. Bury tho war-knife, and this valley would be equal to the most beautiful in Switzerland. At twelve o'clock we came upon four posts with a thatched roof, occupied by a scouting-party of Cachureco soldiers. We should bnxe been glad to avoid them, but they could not have judged so from the way in which we shouted "Amigos ! " vVe inquired for Carrera; expected fo meet him on the road; Figoroa had told us he was coming; Figoroa had entered Aguachapa; and, taking special good care not to tell them that Figoroa had been driven out, we bade them good-bye and hurried on. At twelve o'clock we reached the Rio de los Escla,os, a wild and noble river, the bridge across which is the greatest structure in Central America, a memo1~al of the Spanish dominion. vVe crossed it and entered the village, a mere collection of huts, standing in a magnificent situation on the bank of the 1iver, looking up to a range of giant mountains on the other side, covered to the top with noble pines. The miserable inhabitants were insensible to its beauties, but there were reasons to make them so. Every hostile expedition between Guatimala and San Salvador passed through their village. Twice within one week Morazan's party had done so; the inhabitants carried off what they could, and, locking their doors, fled to the mountains. The last time, Morazan's soldiers were so straitened for provisions, and pressed by fear of pursuit, that huts were torn down for firewood, and bullocks slain and eaten half raw in the street, without bread or tortillas. At two we set off again, and from the village entered a country covered with lava. At four we reached the hacienda of Coral de Piedra, situated on the crest of a stony country, looking like a castle, very large, with a church and village, where, although it rained, we APPRO!CII TO GUATDL\L,1.. 283 did not stop, for the whole village seemed to be. intoxicated. Opposite one house we were hailed by a Cachureco officer, so ti)Jsy that he could hardly sit on his horse, who came to us and told us how many of Morazan' s men he had killed. A little before d,u·k, riding through a forest, in the apprehension that we were lost, we emerged suddenly from tho woods, and saw towering before us the great volcanoes of Agua aud Fucgo, and at the same moment were hailed by the joyful shouts of Don Saturnina and our men. They had encamped in a small hut on the borders of a large plain, and the mules were turned out to pasture. Don Saturnino had been alarmed about us, but he had followed our parting injnnction to go on, as, if any accident had lrn.ppcncd, he could be of more service in Guatimala. 'rhoy had not met Morazan's troops, having been at a hacienda off the road when they passed, and hurrying on, had not heard of the rout of Figoroa. 'l'hc rancho contained a single small room, barely large enough for the man and woman who occupied it, but there was plenty of room out of doors. After a rough ride of more than fifty miles, with tho most comfortable reflection of being but one day from Guatimala, I soon fell asleep. The next morning one of the mules was missing, and we did not get off till eight o'clock. Toward evening we descended a long hill, aud entered the JJlain of Uuatimala. Tt looked beautiful, and I never thought J should be so happy to see it again. I had finished a journey of 1,200 miles, and the gold of Peru could not have tempted me to undertake it again. At the gate the first man I saw was my friend Don 1Ianuel Pavon. I could but think, if Morazan had taken the city, where would he be now i Carrera was not in tho city; he had set out in pursuit of l\Iorazan, but on the road received intelligence which induced him to turn off for Quezaltenango. I learned with deep satisfaction that not one of my acquaintance '\\'as killed, but, as I afterwards found, not one of them had been in the battle. I gave Don l\Ianuel the first intelligence of General 1[orazan. Not a word had been heard of him since he left the Antigua. Nobody had come up from that direction; the people were still too frightene<l. to travel, and the city had not recovered from its spasm of terror. As we advanced I met acquaintances who welcomed me back to Gnatimala. I was considered as having run the gauntlet for life, and escape from dangers created a bond between us. I could hardly persuade myself that the people who received me so cordially, and whom I was really glad to meet again, were the same whoso expulsion by j\J orazan I had considered probable. If he had succeeded, not one of them would have been there to welcome me. Repeatedly I was 284' TRAVELS IN CEKTRAL AMERIC.L obliged to stop and tell_ over the affair of Aguachapa; how many men Morazan had; "·hat officers; whether I spoke to him; how he looked, and what he said. I introduced the captain; each had his circle of listeners; and the captain, as a slight indemnification for his forcecl "Viva Carreras!" on the road, feeling, on his arrival once more amoug civilized and well-dressed people, a comparative security for liberty of speech, said that if Morazan's horses Imel not been so tired, every man of Figoroa's would have been killed. Unhappily, I could not but see that onr news would have been more acceptable if we could have reported l\Iorazan completely prostrated, wounded, or even dead. As we achanced I could perceive that the sides of the houses were marked by musket-halls, and the fronts on the plaza were fearfully scarified. My house was near the plaza, and three musket-balls, picked out of the woodwork, were saved for my inspection, as a sample of the battle. In an hour after my arrival I bad seen nearly all my old friends. Engrossed by my own troubles, I had not imagined the full extent of theirs. I cannot describe the satisfaction with which I found myself once more among them, and for a little while, at least, at rest. I still had anxieties; I had no letters from home, and Mr. Catherwood had not arrived; but I had no uneasiness about him, for he was not in the line of danger; and when I lay down I had the comfortable sensation that there was nothing to drive me forward the next day. The captain took up his abode with me. It was an odd finale to bis expedition against Guatimala; but, after all, it was better thau remaining at the port. Great changes had taken place in Guatimala since I left, and it may not be amiss here to give a brief account of what bad occurred in my absence. The reader will remember the treaty between Carrera and Guzman, the general of the state of Los Altos, by which the former surrendered to the latter 400 old muskets. Since that time Guatimala had adopted Carrera (or had been adopted by him, I hardly know which), and, on the ground that the distrust formerly entertained of him no longer existed, demanded a restitution of the muskets to him. The State of Los Altos refused. 'l.'his State was at that time the focus of Liberal principles, and Quezaltenango, the capital) was the asylum of Liberals banished from Guatimala. Apprehending, or pretcncling to apprehend, an invasion from that State, and using the restitution of the 400 worthless muskets as a pretext, Carrera marched against Quezaltcnango with 1,000 men. Tho Inclians, believing that he came to destroy the whites, assisted him. Guzman's troops deserted him, and Carrera with his own hands took him prisoner, sick and enenmberccl with a great coat, in the act of dashing his horse down a deep A SKETCH OF TIIE WAR . 285 mvine to escape: he sent to Guatinmla Guzman's military coat, with the names of Omoa, Truxillos, and other places where Guzman had distinguished himself in the service of the republic, labelled on it, and a letter to the government, stating that he had sent the coat as a proof that he had taken Guzman. A gentleman told me that he saw this coat on its way, stuck on a pole, and paraded by an insulting rabble around the plaza of the Antigua. After the uattle Carrera marched to the capital, deposed the chief of the State and other officers, garrisoned it with his own soldiers, and, not understanding the technical distinctions of state lines, destroyed its existence as a separate State, and annexed it to Guatimala, or, rather, to his own command. In honour of his distinguished services, public notice was given that on Monday the 17th he would make his triumphal entry into Guatimala; and on that clay he did enter, under arches erected across the streets, amid the firing of cannon, waving of flags, and music, with General Gnzm::m, personally known to all the principal inhabitants, who but a year before had hastened at their piteous call to save them from the hands of this same Carrera, placed sideways on a mule, with his feet tied under him, his face so bruised, swollen, and disfigured by stones and blows of machetes that he could not be recognised, and the prisoners tied together with ropes; and the chief of the state, secretary of sh,te, and secretary of the Constituent Assembly rode by Can·cra's side in this disgraceful triumph. General Guzman was one of those who had been liberated from prison by General :Morazan. He had escaped from the plaza with the remnant of his forces, but, unable to endure the fatigues of the journey, he was left behind, secreted on the road ; and General l\Iorazan told me that, in consequence of the cruelties exercised upon him, and the horrible state of anxiety in which he was kept, reason had deserted its throne, and his once strong mind was gone. From this time the city settled into a volcanic calm, quivering with apprehensions of an attack by General l\Iorazan, a rising of the Indians and a war of castes, and startled by occasional rumours that Carrera intended to bring Guzman and the prisoners out into the plaza and shoot them. On the 14th of l\Iarch intelligence was received from l•igoroa that General l\lorazan had crossed the Rio Paz and was nrnrching against Guatimala. This swallowed up all other apprehensions. Carl'era was the only man who could protect the city. On the 15th he marched out with 900 men, toward Arazola, leaving the plaza occupied hy 500 men. Great gloom hung over the city. 'l'he same clay l\Iorazan arriYcd at the Coral de Piedra, eleven leagues from Guatimala. On the 16th the soldiers commenced erecting parapets at the corners of the plaza; many 286 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL A~IERIC,\. Indians came in from the villages to assist, and Carrera took up his position at the Aceytuna, a league and a half from the city. On the 17th Carrera rode into the city, and with the chief of the state and others, went around to visit the fortifications and rouse the people to arms. At noon he returned to the Aceytuna, and at four o'clock intelligence was received that Morazan's army was descending the Questa de Pinula, the last range before reaching the plain of Gnatimala. The bells tolled the alarm, and great consternation prevailed in the city. Morazan's army slept that night on the plain. Before daylight he marched upon the city, and entered the gate of Buena Vista, leaving all his cavalry and part of his infantry at the Plaza de Taros ancl on the heights of Calvario, under Colonel Cabanes, to watch the movements of Carrera, and with 700 men occupied the Plaza of Guadaloupe, depositing his parque, equipage, a hundred women (more or less of whom always accompany an expedition in that country), and all his train, in the Hospit::Ll of Sau Juan de Dios. Hence be sent Perez and Rivas, with 400 or 500 men, to attack the plaza. These passed up a street descending from the centre of the city, and, while covered by the brow of the hill, climbed over the yardwall of the church of Escuela de Cristo, and passed through the church into the street opposite the mint, in the rear of one side of the plaza. Twenty-seven Indians were engaged in making a redoubt at the door, and twenty-six bodies were found on the ground, nine killed and seventeen wounded. When I saw it the ground was still red with blood. Entering the mint, the invaders were received with a murderous tire along the corridor ; but, forcing their way through, they broke open the front portal, and rushed into the plaza. 'l'he plaza was occupied by the 500 men left by Carrera, and 200 or 300 Indians, who fell back, closed up near the porch of the cathedral, o.nd in a few moments all fled, leaving the plaza, with all their ammunition, in the possession of the assailants. Rivera Paz and Don Luis Bartrcs, the chief and secretary of the state, were in the plaza at the time, and but few other white citizens. Carrera did not ,rnnt white soldiers, and would uot permit white men to be officers. Many young men had presented themselves in the plaza, and were told that there were no arms. In the meantime, Carrera, strengthened by masses of Indians from the villages around, attacked the division on the heights of Calva:io. Morazan, with the small force left at San .T nan de Dias, went to the assistance of Cabanes. 'l'he battle lasted o.n hour and a half, fierce and bloody, and fought hand to hand. Morazan lost some of bis best officers. Sanches was killed by Sotero Carrera, a brother of tho geneml. Carrera and llloozan met, and Carrera says that he cut ' I 'l'llE llA'ITLE. 287 Momz[ln's s[lddle nearly in two. :Morazan was routed, pursued so closely th[\t he could not take up his equipage, and hurried on to the plaza, having lost 300 muskets, 400 men killed, wounded, and prisoners, and all his baggage. At ten o'clock his whole force was penned up in tho plaza, surrounded by an immense mass of Indian soldiers, and fired upon from all the corners. Manning the po.mpets and stationing pickets on tho roofs of the houses, he kept up a galling fire in return. Pent up in this fearful position, i\Iorazan had time to reflect. But a yeo.r before he was received with 1·inging of bells, firing of cannon, joyful [ICclamatious, and deputations of grateful citizens, as the only man who could save them from Carrera and destruction. Among the few white citizens in the p1uaat the time of the entry of the soldiers was a young man, who was taken prisoner and brought before General :Morazau. The latter knew him personally, and inquired for several of his old partisans by name, asking whether they were not coming to join him. Tho young man answered that they were not, and i\forazan and bis officers seemed disappointed. No doul,t be had expected a rising of citizens in his favour, and again to be hailed as a deliverer from Carrera. In San Salvador I bad heard that he had received urgent solicitations to come up; but, whatever had been contemplated, there was no manifestation of any such intention; on the contrary, the hoarse cry was ringing in his ears, "i\Iuera cl tyranno ! i\Iuera el General i\Iorazan !" Popular fccliug had undergone an entire revolution, or else it was kept down by the masses of Indians who came in from the Yillagcs around to defend the city against him. Iu the meantime the fire slackened, and at twelve o'clock it died away entirely; but the plaza was strewed with dead, dense masses choked up the streets, and at the corners of the plaza the soldiers, with gross ribalclry and jests, insulted and jcere(l at hlorazan and his men. 'l'hc firing ceasecl only from want of ammunition, Carrcra's stock having boon left in i\Iorazan's possession. Carrera, in his eagerness to renew the attack, sat down to make cartridges with his own hands. The house of Mr. Hall, tho British vice-consul, was on one of lhc sides of the plaza. i\Ir. Chatfield, the consul-general, was at Escuintla, n,boul twelve leagues distant, when intelligence was received of i\fora2an's invasion. Ile mounted his horse, rode up to the city, and hoisted the English flag on 1\Ir. Hall's honse, to hlorazan's soldiers the most conspicuous object on the plaza. C,uTem himself was hardly more obnoxious to them than Mr. Chatfield. A picket of soldiers was stationed on the roof of the house, commandiug the plaza on the one side, and the courtyard on the other. Orellana, the former miuister of war, was on the roof, and cut into the staff with his sword, but 288 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AlllERICA. desisted on a remonstrance from the courtyard that it was the ho1rnc of the vice-consul. At sundown the immense mass of Indians who now crowded the city fell on their knees, and set up the Sa1ve or hymn to the Virgin. Orellana and others of Morazan's officers had let themselves clown in the courtyard, and were at the moment taking chocolate in Mr. Hall's house. Mrs. Hall, a Spanish hcly of the city, asked Orellana why he did not fall on his knees; and ho answered, in jest, that he was afraid his own soldiers on the roof would take him for a Cachureco and shoot him; but it is said that to Morazan the noise of this immense chorus of voices was appalling, bringing home to him a consciousness of the immense force assembled to crush him, and for the first time he expressed his sense of tho danger they were in. The prayer was followed by a tremendous burst of "Viva la Religion! Viva Carrera! y muera cl General Morazan ! " and the firing commenced more sharply than before. It was returned from the plaza, and for several hours continued without intermission. At two o'clock in the morning Morazan made a desperate effort to cut his way out of the plaza, but was driven back behind the parapets. The plaza was strewed with dead. Forty of his oldest officers and his eldest son were killed; and at three o'clock he stationed 300 men at three corners of the plaza, directed them to open a brisk fire, threw all the powder into the fountain, and while attention was directed to these points, sallied by the other, and left them to their fate. I state this on the authority of the Guatimala official account of the battle -of course I heard nothing of it at Ag1rnchapa-and if true, it is a blot on Morazan's character as a soldier and as a man. He escaped from the city with 500 men, and strewing the road with wounded and dead, at twelve o'clock arrived at the Antigua. Herc he was urged to proclaim martial law, and make another attack on the city; but ho answered, No; blood onough had been shecl. He entered the cabildo, and, it is said, ,n-otc a letter to Carrera recommending tho prisoners to moray; and Baron Mahelin, the French consul-general, related to me an anecdote, which docs not, howovcr, seem probable ; that he laid his glove on the table, and requested the alcalde to give it to Carrera as a challenge, and oxplain its meaning. From that place he continued his retroat by the coast m1til I met him at Aguachapa. In the meantime Carrera's soldiers poured into the plaza with n tremendous feu-do-joie, and kopt up a terrible firing in the air till daylight. Then thoy commenced searching for fugitives, and a general massacr-0 took place. Colonel Arias, lying on the ground with one of his eyes out, was bayoneted to death. Perez was shot. :M:arcscal, concealed undor the Cathedral, was dragged out and shot. Padilla, MASSACRE, 289 the son of the widow at Agnachapa, found on the ground, while begging a Centralist whom ho knew to save him, was killed with bayonets. 'fhe unhappy fugitives were brought into the plaza two, three, five, and ten at a time. Carrem stood pointing with his finger to this man and that, and every one that he indicated was removed a few paces from him and shot. Major Jos6 Viera, and several of the soldiers on the roof of Mr. Hall's house, let themselves clown into the court-yard, and Carrera sent for all who had taken refuge there. Viera ,ms taking chocolate with the family, and g,we Mrs. Hall a purse of doubloons and a pistol to take care of for him. 'l'bey were delivered up, with a recommendation to mercy, particularly in behalf of Viera; but a few moments after Mr. Skinner entered the house, and said that he saw Viera's body in the plaza. Mr. Hall could not bclicvo it, and walked round the corner, but a few paces from his own door, and saw him lying on his back, dead. In this scene of massacre the Padre Zozcna, a poor and humble priest, exposed his own life to save his fellow-beings. Throwing himself on his knees before Carrera, !te implored him to spare the unhappy prisoners, exclaiming, they are Christians like ourselves; and by his importunities and prayers induced Carrera to desist from mnrder, and send the wretched captives to prison. Carrera and his Indians Imel the whole danger and the whole glory of defending the city. The citizens, who had most at stake, took no part in it. The members of the government most deeply compromised fled, or remained shut up in their houses. It would be hard to analyse the feelings with which they straggled out to gaze upon the scene of horror in the streets and in the plaza, and saw on the ground the well-known faces and mangled bodies of the leaders of the Liberal party. There was one overpowering sense of escape from immense danger, and the feeling of the Central Government burst out in its official bulletin: "Eternal glory to the invincible chief, General Carrera, and the valiant troops under his command ! " In the morning, as at the moment of our arrival, this subject was uppermost in every one's mind; no one could talk of anything else, and each one had something new to communicate. In our first walk through the streets onr attention was directed to tli'c localities, and everywhere we saw marks of the battle. Vagabond soldiers accosted us, begging mcdios, pointing their muskets at our heads to show how they shot the enemy, and boasting how many they had killed. 'fhese fellows made me feel uncomfortable, and I was not singular; but if there was a man who httd a mixture of uncomfortable and comfortable feelings, it was my friend the captain. He was for Morazan; had left u 290 'l.'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. La Union to join his expedition, left San Salvador to pay him a visit at Guatimala, and partake of the festivities of his triumph, and left Aguachapa because his trunks had gone on before. Ever since his arrival in the country he bad been accustomed to hear Carrera spoken of as a robber and assassin, and the noblesse of Guatimala ridiculed, and all at once he found himself in a hornet's nest. He now heard Momzan denounced as a tyrant, bis officers as a set of cut-throats, banded together to assassinate personal enemies, rob churches, and kill priests; they had met ihe fate they deserved, and the universal sentiment was,-So perish the enemies of Cua ti mah! The captain had received a timely caution. His story, that J\Iorazan would have killed every man of Figoroa's if the horses had not been so tired, had circufo.ted; it was considered very partial, and special inquiries were made as to who that captain was. He was compelled to listen and assent, or say nothing. On the road he \Yas an excessively loud talker, spoke the language perfectly, with his admirable arms and horse equipments ul ways made u dashing en tree into a village, and was culled "mny valiente," "very brave;" but here he was a subdued man, attmcting a greut dertl of attention, but without uny of the 6clat which hud uttended him on the roud, and feeling thut he was an object of suspicion and distrust. But he had one consolation that nothing could take away: he had not been in the battle, or, to use his own expression, he might now be lying on the ground with his face upward. In the afternoon, unexpectedly, Mr. Catherwood arrived. He had passed a month at the Antigua, and had just returned from a second visit to Oopun, und had also explored other ruins, of which mention will be made hereafter. Tn our joy at meeting we tumbled into each other's arms, and in the very first moment resolrnd not to separate again while in that distracted country. RUINS OF QUIRJGUA. 291 CHAP'l'ER XXIV. I'.UIKS OF QUlRIGUA-YISIT TO TllEU-LOS AMAT.ES-PYRAMIDAL STRUCTURE-A COLOSSAL J-IEAD-AN ALTAR-A COLLECTION 01' l\lONUMENTS-ST.\.TUES-CIIARACTER OF 'l'HE RUJXS -A LOST Cl'fY-PURCHAsu,o A RUINED CITY, To recur to Mr. Catherwood's operations, who, during my absence, had not been idle. On reaching Guatimala the first time from Copan, I made it my business to inquire particnlarly for rnins. I did not meet a single person who had ever visited those of Copan, and but few who took any interest whatever in the antiquities of the count,ry; but, fortunately, a few days after my arrival, Don Carlos Meany, an Englishman from Trinidad, long resident in the country, proprietor of a large hacienda, and extensively engaged in mining operations, made one of his regular business visits to the capital. Besides a thorough acquaintance wit.hall that concerned Iris own immediate pursuits, this gentleman possessed much general information respecting the country, and a curiosity which circumstances had never permitted him to gratify in regard to antiquities; and he told me of the ruins of Quirigua, on the Motagua River, near Encuentros, the place at which we slept the &econd night after crossing the Mico Mountain. He had never seen them, and I hardly believed it possible they could exist, for at that place we had made special inquiries for the ruins of Copan, and were not informed of any others. I became satisfied, however, that Don Carlos was a man who did not speak at random. 'l'hey were on the estate of Se,,or Payes, a gentleman of Guatimala lately deceased. He had heard of them from Setior Payes, and had taken such interest in the subject as to inquire for and obtain the details of particular monuments. Three sons of Sei'ior Payes had succeeded to his estate, and at my request Don Carlos called with me upon them. Neither of the sons had over seen the ruins, or even visited the estate. It was an immense tract of wild land, which had come into their father's hands many years before for a more trifle. He had visited it once; and they too had heard him speak of these ruins. Lately the spirit of speculation had i-cached that country; and from its fertility and position on the bank of a navigable river contiguous to the ocean, the tract had been made the subject of a prospcctns, to be sold on shares in England. The prnspectus set forth the great natural ad vantages of the location, and the inducements held out to emigrants, in terms and plu·ases that might u 2 292 TRA \ ELS IN CENTRAL A}IERICA. have issued from a laboratory in New York before the crash. The Seiiores Payes were in the first stage of anticipated wealth, and talked in the familiar strains of city builders at home. They were roused hy the prospect of any indirect addition to the value of their real estate; told me that two of them were then making arrangements to visit the tract, and immediately proposed that I should accompany them. Mr. Catherwood, on his road from Copan, had fallen in with a person at Chiquimula who told him of such ruins, with the addition that Colonel Galindo was then at work among them. Being in the neighbomhood, he had some idea of going to visit them; but being much worn with his labours at Copan, and knowing that ihe story was untrue as regarded Colonel Galindo, whom he knew to be in a different section of the country, he was incredulous as to the whole. ·we had some doubt whether they would repay the labour; but as there was no occasion for him to accompany me to S::m Salvador, it was agreed that during my absence he should, with the Seiiores Payes, go to Qnirigua, which he accordingly did. The reader must go back to Encucntros, the place at which we slept the second night of our arrival in the country. From this place they embarked in a canoe about twenty-five feet long and forn· broad, dug out of the trunk of a mahogany-tree, and descending two homs, disembarked at Los Amates, near El Poso, on the main road from Yzabal to Guatimala, the place at which we breakfasted the second morning of our arrival in the country, and where the Sciiores Payes were obliged to wait two or three days. 'rho place was a miserable collection of hnts, scant of provisions, and the people drank a muddy water at their doors, rather thnn take the trouble of going to the river. On a fine morning, after a heavy rain, they set off for the ruins. After a ride of about half an horn·, over an execrable road, they again reached the Amatcs. 'l'he village wns pleasantly situated on tho bank of the river, and elevated about thirty feet. The river was here about 200 feet wide, and fordable in every part except a few deep holes. Generally it did not exceed three feet in depth, and in many places was not so deep; but below it was said to be navigable to the sea for boats not drawing more than three feet water. 'rhey embarked in two canoes dug out of cedar-trees, and proceeded down the river for a couple of miles, where they took on board a ncgro man named Juan Lima, and his two wives. 'rhis black scoundrel, as Mr. C. marks him down in his note-book, was to be their guide. They then procccdecl two or tlll'ce miles farther, and stopped at a rancho on the left side of the river, and _passing through two corn-fields, entered a forest of large I ' I ' S ,\ -· ;,,. (,\i i ,,,,~ l ::.:;. I D·->L AT C.. t:IR IC. L'.-\ 29t TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AiIEllICA, cedar and mahogany-trees. Tho path was exceedingly soft and wot, and covered with decayed leaves, and tho heat very groat. Continuiug tlu·ough the forest toward the north-cast, in three quarters of an hour they reached tho foot of a pyramidal structure like those at Copan with the stops in some places perfect. They ascended to the top about 25 feet, and descending by steps on tho other side, at a short distance beyond came to a colossul head two yards in diameter, almost buried by un enormous tree, und covered with moss. Near it was a lurge altar, so covered with moss that it was impossible to make anything out of it. The two are within an enclosure. Retracing their steps across the pyramidal structure, and proceeding to the north about 300 or 400 yards, they roached a collection of monuments of tho same general character -with those at Copan, but twice or three times as high. Tho first is about 20 feet high, 5 feet 6 inches on two sides, and 2 feet 8 on the other two. The front represents the figure of a mun, well preserved; the back that of a woman, much defaced. The sides are covered with hieroglyphics in good prcservution, but in low relief, und of exactly the same style as those at Copan. Another, represented in the engmving, No. 36, is 23 feet out of the ground, with figures of men on the front and back, and hieroglyphics in low relief on the sides, and smToundod by u base projecting 15 or 16 feet from it. At a short distance, standing in the same position as regards the points of the compass, is an obelisk or carved stone, 26 feet out of tbe ground, and probably 6 or 8 feet under, which is represented in the engraving No. 37. It is leaning 12 feet 2 inches out of the perpendicular, and seems ready to fall, which is probably prevented only by a tree that has grown up against it, and tho large stones around the base. 'fhe side toward the ground represents the figure of a man very perfect and finely sculptured. The upper side seemed tho same, but was so hidden by vegetation as to make it somewhat uncertain. '.l.'he other two contain hieroglyphics in low relief. In size and sculpture this is the finest of the whole. A statue 10 feet in length is lying on the ground, covered with mosi, and herbage, and unother about the &'tme size lies with its face upward. There arc four others erect, about 12 feet high, but not iu a very good state of preservation, and several altars so covered with herbage that it was difficult to ascertain their exact form. One of them is round, and situated on a smull elevution within a circle formed by a "·all of stones. In the centre of the circle, reached by P. C11/!,,-ru:"od, :li, IDOL AT QUIRIGUA. 29G TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. descending very narrow steps, is a large round stone, with the sides sculptured in hieroglyphics, covered with vegetation, and supported on what seemed to be t\\·o colossal heads. These arc all at the foot of a pyramidal wall, near each other, and in the vicinity of a creek which empties into the lllotagua. Besides these they counted thirteen fragments, and doubtless many others m:iy yet be discovered. At some distance from them is another monument, 9 feet out of ground, and probably 2 or 3 under, with the figare of a woman on the front and back, and the two sides richly ornamented, but withont hieroglyphics. The next clay the negro promised to show Mr. C. elm·en square columns higher than any he had seen, standing in a row at the foot of a mountain; but after dragging him three hours through the mud, Mr. C. found by the compass that he was constantly changing his direction; and as the man \\"as armed with pistols, notoriously a bad fellow, and indignant at the owners of the land for coming down to look after their squatters, Mr. C. became suspicious of him, and insisted upon returning. 'rhe Payes were engaged with their own affairs, and having no one to assist him, l\Ir. Catherwood was unable to make any thorough exploration or any complete drawings. The general character of these ruins is the same as at Copan. The monuments are much larger, but they are sculptured in lower relief, less rich in design, and more faded and worn, probably being of a much older elate. Of one thing there is no doubt: a large city once stood there; its name is lost, its history unknown; and, except for a notice taken from :Mr. C.'s notes, and inserted by the Sei'iores Payes in a Guatimala paper after the vii;it, which found its way to this country and Europe, no account of its exii;tencc has ever before been published. For centuries it has lain as completely buried as if covered with the lava of Vesuvius. Every traveller from Y zabal to Guatirnala has passed withit1 three hours of it; we ourselves had clone the same; and yet there it lay, like the rock-built city of Edom, unvisited, unsought, and utterly unknown. The morning after l\fr. C. rctmnccl J called upon Senor Payes, Lhe only one of the brothers then iu Guatimala, and opened a negotiation for the purchase of these ruins. Besides their entire newness ,tnd immense interest as an unexplored field of antiquarian reserLrch, Lhc monuments were but about a mile from tho river, the ground was level to the bank, and the river from that place was narigahle; the city might be transported bodily, and set up in New York. I expressly . , PURCIIASING A RUINED CITY. 297 stated (and my reason for doing so will be obvious) that I was acting in this matter on my own account, that it was entirely a personal affair; but Seiior Payes would consider me as acting for my government, and said, what I am sure he meant, that if his family was as it had been once, they would be proud to present the whole to the United States; in that country they were not appreciated, and he would he happy to contribute to the cause of science in ours; but they were impoverished by the convulsions of the country; and, at all e,euts, he could give me no answer till his brothers returned, who were expected in two or three days. Unfortunately, as I believe for both of us, Seiior Payes consulted with the French consul-general, who put an exaggerated ,alue upon the ruins, referring him to the expenditure of several hundred thousand dollars by the French government in transporting one of the obelisks of Luxor from Thebes to Paris. Probably, before the speculating scheme referred to, the owners would have beeu glad to sell the whole tract, consisting of more than 50,000 acres, with everything on it, known and unknown, for a few thousand dollars. I was anxious to visit them myself, and learn with more certainty the possibility of their removal, but was afraid of increasing the extra,a-- gance of his notions. His brothers did not arrive, and one of them unfortunately died on the road. I had not the government for paymaster; it might be necessary to throw up the purchase on account of the cost of removal; I left an offer with j\fr. Savage, which was not accepted, and the monuments remain where first discovered . 298 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AM~JRICA. CHAPTER XXV. RECEPTION AT TJIE GOVERN?>1ENT TTOUSE-TTIE CAPTA1N IN TROUDLJ:-A CHANGE OF CHA~ RAC1.'ER-ARR \ NGEMENTS FOil JOURNEY TO P A L ENQ.UE-ARREST OF THE CAl'TA I::,; - 11n REI,EASE-DANGERS lN PROSP.ECT-FEARPUL STATE OF THE COUNTRY-LI.ST INTERVlf.W WITH CARRERA-DEPARTURE :FROM GUATIMALA-A !ION QUIXOTE-ClUDAD VJEJA-l'LAI N OF EL VIEJA-VOLCANOES, PLAINS, AND VILLAGES- SAN ANDR}:S IS APA- -DANGEROUS ROAD -A MOLINO-JOURNEY COSTINUED-DARRANCAS-TECPAN GUATDIALA- A N OBLE CHUP.CHA SACRED STONE-THE ANCIENT CITY-DESCRil'TIO~ OF THE llUlNS-A MOLINO-ASOTIIER EAltTHQUAKF.- PATZU)f-A RAVINE- FORl'H'ICATI01'S - LOS ALTOS-GODI N ES-LOS I NG A GOOD 1,·nIEND-)IAG'SIFICENT SCENERY-SA~ ANTONIO-LAKE 01~ ATITLAN. THE next day I called upon the chief of the state. At this time there was no question of presenting credentials, nnd I was received by him and all gentlemen conuectecl with him without any distrust or suspicion, and more as one identified with them in feelings and interests than as a foreign agent. I had seen more of their country tban any one present, and spoke of its extraordinary beauty and fertility, its volcanoes and mountains, the great canal which might make it known to all the civilized world, and its immense resomces, if they would let the sword rest and be at peace among themselves. Some of the remarks in these pages will perhaps be considered harsh, and a poor return for the kindness shown to me. My predilections were in favour of the Liberal party, as well because they sustained the Federation as because they gave me a chance for a government; but I lwse a ,rnrm feeling toward many of the leading members of the Central party. If I speak harshly, it is of their public and political character only; and if I have given offence, I regret it. As I was leaving the Government House a gentleman followed me, and asked me who that captain was that had accompanied me, addiug, what surprised me not a little, that the govemment had advices of his travelling up with me from La Union, his intention to join :Morazan's expedition, and his change of purpose in consequence of meeting Morazan defeated on the road; that as yet he was not molested only because he was staying at my house. I was disturbed by this communication. I was open to the imputation of taking advantage of my official character to harbour a partisan. I was the only friend the captain had, and of course determined to stand by him; but he ,\'flS not only an object of suspicion, but actually known ; for much less cause men wore imprisoned and shot; in case of any outbreak, my house would not be a protection; it was best to avoid any excitement, and to have an understanding at once. 'With this view I returned to the chief of the state, and mentioned the circumstances under which ---- I A CHANGE OF CllARACl'Ell. 290 we had travelled together, with the addition that, as to myself, I would have taken a much more questionable companion rather than travel alone; and as to the captain, if he had happened to be thrown ashore on their coast, he would very likely have taken a campaign on their side; that he was not on his way to join the expedition when we met Morazan, and assured him most earnestly that now he understood better the other side of the question, and I would answer for his keeping quiet. Don Rivera Paz, as I felt well assured, was desirous to allay rather than create excitement in the city, received my communication in the best spirit possible, and said the captain had better present himself to the government. I returned to my house, and found the captain alone, already by no means pleased with the turn of his fortunes. My communication did not relieve him, but he accompanied me to the Government House. I could hardly persuade myself that he was the same man whose clashing appearance on the road had often made the women whisper "muy valicnte," and whose answer to all intimations of danger was, that a man can only die once. 'l'o be sure, the soldiers in the corridor seemed to intimate that they had found him out; the gentlemen in the room surveyed him from head to foot, as if taking notes for an advertisement of his person, ancl their looks appeared to say they would know him when they met him again. Ou horseback and with a fair field, the captain would have defied the whole noblesse of Guatimala; but he was completely cowed, spoke only when he was spoken to, and walked out with less effrontery than I supposed possible. And now I would fain let the reader sit down and enjoy himself quietly in Guatimala, but I cannot. The place did not admit of it. I could not conceal from myself that the Federal Government was broken up; there was not the least prospect of its ever being restored, nor, for a long time to come, of any other being organized in its stead. Under these circumstances I did not consider myself justified in 1·cmaining any longer in the country. I was perfectly useless for all the purposes of my mission, and made a formal return to the authorities of 1Vashington, in effect, " after diligent search, no government found." I was once more my own master, at liberty to go where I pleased, at my own expense, and immediately we commenced making arrangements for our journey to Palenque. 1Vc had no time to lose; it was 1,000 miles distant, and the rainy season was approaching, during which part of the road ,rns impassable. 'l'bere was no one in the city who had ever made the journey. The archbishop, on his exit from GuatiJuala eight years before, had fled by that road, and since his time 300 'rRA VELS le< CENTRAL AJ\IElUCA, it had not been travelled by any resident of Guatimala; but we learned enough to satisfy us that it would be less difficult to reach Palenquc from New York than from where we were. "\Ve had many preparations to make, and, from tho impossibility of getting sermnts upon whom we could rely, were obliged to attend to all the details ourselves. The captain was uncertain what to do \Yith himself, and talked of going \Yith us. The next afternoon, as we were returning to the house, we noticed a line of soldiers at the corner of tho street. As usual, we gave them tho sidewalk, and in crossing I remarked to the captain that they eyed us sharply and spoke to each other. The line extended past my door and up to the corner of the next street. Supposing that they were searching for General Guzman or other officers of General Moruzan who were thought to be secreted in the city, and that they would not spare my house, I determined to make no difficulty, and let them search. "\Ve went in, and the porter, with great agitation, told us that the soldiers were in pursuit of the captain. He hardly finished when an officer entered to summon the captain before the corregidor. The captain turned as pale as death. I do not mean it as an imputation upon his courage; any other man would haYe done the same. I was as much alarmed as he, and told him that if he said so I would fasten the doors; hut he answered it was of no use; they would break them down ; and it was better for him to go with the officers. I follo,yecl him to the door, telling him not to make any confessions, not to commit himself, and that I would be with him in a few minutes. I saw at once that the affair was out of the hands of tho chief of the state, and Imel got before an inferior tribunal. l\Ir. Catherwood and ~fr. Savage entered in time to sec the captain moving clown the street with his escort. l\fr. S., who had charge of my house during my absence, and had hoisted the American flag during the attack upon the city, had lived so long in that country, and had behold so many scenes of horror, that ho was not easily disturbed, and knew exactly what to do. He accompanied mo to the cabildo, where we found the captain sitting bolt upright within tho railing, and the cru:regidor and his clerk, with pen, ink, and paper, and ominous formality, examining him. His face brightened at sight of the only man in Guatimala ,rho took the 9l_east interest in his fate. Fortunately, the corregidor was a,n acquaintance, who had been pleased with the interest I took in the sword of Alvamdo, an interesting relic in his custody, and was one of the many whom I found in that country proud of showing attentions to a foreign agent. I claimed the captain as my travelling companion, said that we Imel ha,d a rough journey together, ancl I did not like to lose sight of him. He welcomed me back to Guatimala, and a,ppreciatecl the peril I must NEW J)AXGEllS n PllOSPEC'l'. 301 have encountered in meeting on the road the tyrant Morazan. Tho captain took alh-antage of the oppo,-tunity to detach himself, without any compunctions, from such dangerous fellowship, and we convcn,ed till it was too dark to write, when I suggested that, as it was dangerous to be out at night, I wished to take the captain home with me, and woultl be responsible for his forthcoming. He assented with great courtesy, and told the captain to return at nine o'clock the next morning. The captain was immensely relieved; but he had already made up his mind that he had come to Guatimah on a trading expedition, and to make great use of his gold chains. The next clay the examination was resumed. 'l'he capt.'lin certainly did not commit himself by any confessions; indeed, the rernlution in his sentiments was most extraordinary. The Guatimala air was fatal to partialities for )Iorazan. The examination, by favour of the corregidor, was satisfactory; but the captain was acl,·isccl to lea,e the city. In case of any excitement he would he in clanger. Carrcm, was expected from Q,1ezaltenango in a few days, and if he took it up, which he was not unlikely to do, it might be a bacl business. The captain did not need any urging. A council was held to determine which way he should go, and the road to the port was the only one open. On a bright moming he pulled off his frockcoat, put on his traYclling dress, mo1mted, and set off for Balize. I watched him as he rode clown the street till he was out of sight. Poor captain, where is he nowi The nexL timo I saw him "·as at my own house in New York. He was taken sick at Jblize, and got on board a brig bound for Boston, was there at the time of my arrival, and came on to see me; and the Inst that I sr,w of him, afraid to return across the country to get the account sales of his ship, he was about to embark for the Isthmus of Pannnm, cross over, and go up the Pacific. I was knocked about myself in that country, but I think the captain will not soon forget his campaign with .i\Ioraznn. In my race from Nienrngna I had cheered myself with the idea that, on reaching Guatimala, all difficulty was over, and that our joumey to Palenque would be atLendecl only by the hardships of travelling in a country destitute of accommodations; but, unfortunately, the horizon in that direction was lowering. 'l'be whole mass of the Indian population of Los Altos was in a state of excitement, and there were whispers of a gcneml rising and mass.'lct·e of the whilrs, General Prem, to whom I have before referred, and his wife, while travelling toward Mexico, had been attacked by a band of assassins; he himself was left on the ground for dead, and his wife murdered, her fingers cut off, and the ring1l torn from them. LieutemnL Nichols, the aide-de-camp of 302 'l'RA VELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. Colonel J\I'Donald, arrived from the Balize with a report that Captain Caddy and ]\fr. Wa1ker, who had set ant for Palenque by the Balize River, had been speared by the Indians; and there was a rumour of some dreadful atrocity committed by Carrern. in Quezaltenango, and that he was hurrying back from that place infuriate, with the intention of bringing all the prisoners out into the plaza and shooting them. Every friend in Guatimaln., and Mr. Chatfield particularly, urged us not to undertake the journey. ·we felt that it was a most inauspicious moment, and almost shrunk; I have no hesitation in saying that it was a matter of most serious consideration whether we should not abandon it altogether and return by the way we came; but we had set out with the purpose of going to Palenque, and could not retm·n without seeing it. Among the petty difficulties of fitting ourselves out I may mention that we wanted four iron chains for trunks, but could only get two, for every blacksmith in the place was making chains for the prisoners. In a week from the time of my arrival everything was ready for our departure. We provided ourselves with all the facilities and &<ifeguards that could be procured. Besides passports, the government furnishecl us special letters of recommendation to all the corregidors; a flattering notice appeared in the government paper, El Tiempo, mentioning my travels through the provinces and my intended route, and recom1nending me to hospitality; and, upon the strength of the letter of the Archbishop of Baltimore, the venerable Provisor gave me a letter of recommendation to all the cnras under his charge. But these were not enough; Carrera's name was worth more than them all, and we waited two clays for his return from Quezaltenango. On the 6th of April, early in the morning, he entered the city. At about nine o'clock I called at his house, and was informed that he was in bed, had ridden all night, and would not rise till the afternoon. I have mentioned that there were rumours in the city of some horrible outrage committed by Carrera at Quezaltenango. He had set out from Guatimala in pursuit of Morazan. Near the Antigua he met one of his own soldiers from Quezaltenango, who reported that there had been a rising in that town, and the garrison were compelled to lay down their arms. Enraged at this intelligeuce, he abandoned his pursuit of Morazan, and, without e,en advising the government of his change of plan, marched to Quezaltcnango, and among other mino1· outrages seized eighteen of the municipality, the first men of the state, and without the slightest form of trial shot them in the plaza; and, to heighten the gloom which this news cast over the city, a rumour preceded him that, immediately on his arrival, he intend eel to order out FEAUFUL STATE OF nm COUNTilY. 303 all tho prisoners and shoot them also. At this time the repressed excitement in tho city was feai·ful. An immense relief was experienced on tho repulse of l\forazan, but there had been uo rejoicing; aucl again t.he sword seemed suspouclecl by a single hair. Auel here I would remark, as at a place where it has uo immediate connexion with what precedes or what follows, aucl consequently, where no application of it can be made, that some matters of deep personal interest, which illustrate, more than volumes, the dreadful state of tho country, I am obliged to withhold altogether, lest, perchance, these pages should find their way to Gnatimala and compromise individuals. In my long journey I had had intercourse with men of all parties, and was spoken to freely, and sometimes confidentially. Heretofore, in all the wars and revolutions the whites had the controlling influence, but at this time the Indians were the dominant power. Roused from the sloth of ages, and with muskets in their haucls, their gentleness "·as changed into ferocity; and eveu among the adherents of the Carrera party there was a fearful apprehension of a war of castes, and a strong desire, on the part of those who could get a,rny, to leave the country. I was consulted by men having houses and large lauded estates, but who could only command 2,000 or 3,000 dollars in money, as to their ability to live on that sum in the United States; and individuals holding high offices under the Central party told me that they had their passports from Mexico, and were ready at any momeut to fly. 'l'here seemed ground for the apprehension that the hour of retributive justice was nigh, and that a spirit was awakened among the Indians to make a bloody offering to the spirits of their fathers, and recover their inhc1·itance. Carrera was the pivot on ,d1ich this turned. He was talked of as El Rey cle los Indios, The King of the Indians. He had relieYed them from all taxes, and, as they said, supported his army by levying contributions upon the whites. His power by a ,Yord to cause the massacre of every white inhabitant, no one doubted. Their security was, as I conceived, that, in the constant action of his short career, be had not had time to form any plans for extended dominion, and knew nothing of the immense country from Texas to Cape Horn, occupied by a race sympathising in hostility to the whites. He was a fanatic, and, to a certain extent, under the dominion of the priests; and his own acuteness told him that he was more powerful with the Irnlians themseh·es while supported by the priests and the aristocracy than at the head of the Indians only; but all knew that, iu the moment of passion, he forgot entirely the little of plan or policythatevcr governed him; anclwhen he returned from Quezaltenango, his hands reel with blood, and prcccclecl by the fearful rumour that he intended to bring out 200 or 300 prisoners and shoot 304 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL Ahl1':RICA. them, the citizens of Guatimala felt that they stood on the brink of a fmrfnl gulf. A leading member of the government, whom I wished to call with me upon him and ask him for his passport, declined doing so, lest, as he said, Carrera should think the government was trying to lead him. Others paid him formal visits of ceremony and congratulation upon his return, and compared notes with each other as to the manner in which they were receiYed. Carrera made no report, official or verbal, of what he had done; and though all were full of it, no one of them dared ask him any questions, or refer to it. They will perhaps pronounce me a calumniator, but even at the hazard of wounding their feelings, I cannot withhold what I belie,e to be a true picture of the state of the country as it was at that time. Unable to induce any of the persons I wished, to call with me upon Carrera ; afraid, after wch a long interval and such exciting scenes as he had Leen engaged in, that he might not recognise me; and feeling that it was all important not to fail in my application to him, I remembered that in my first interview he lmd spoken warmly of a doctor who had extracted a ball from his side. This doctor I did not know, but I called upon him, and asked him to accompany me, to which, with great civility, he immediately assented. It ,ms under these circumstances that I made my bst visit to Carrera. He had removed into a much large1· house, and his guard I was more regular and formal. ,vheu I entered, he was standing behind a table on one side of the room, with his wife, and Rivera Paz, and one or two others, examining some large Costa Rica chains; and at the moment he lmd one in his hands, which had formed part of the contents of those trunks of my friend the captain, and which had often adorned his neck. I think it wonld have given the captain a spasm if he had known tlmt anything once around his neck was between Carrera's fingers. His wife was a pretty, delicate-looking Mestitzo, not more than twenty, and seemed to have a woman's fondness for chains and gold. Carrera himself looked at them with indifference. Uy idea at the time was, that these jewels were sent in by the government as a present to his wife, and, through her, to propitiate him; but perhaps I was wrong. The face of Rivera Paz seemed anxious. Carrera had passed through so many terrible scenes since I saw him, that I feared he had forgotten me; but he recognised me in a moment, and made room for me behind the table next to himself. His military coat lay on the table, and he wore the same roundabout jacket,-his face had the same youthfulness, quickness, and intelligence, his voice and manners the same gentleness and seriousness,-and he had again been wounded, I regretted to meet River:1 Paz there; for I thought it CA!lllERA. 30j must be mortifying to him, as tho head of tho government, to sec that his passport was not considered a protection without Carrera's indorsoment: bnt I could not stand upon ceremony, and took adrnntagc of Cat'I'era's leaving the table to say to him that I was setting out on a dangerous road, and considered it indispensable to fortify myself with all tho security I conld get. ,vhen Carrera returned, I told him my purposc,-that I had waited only for his rctnrn,-slwwcd him the passport of the government, and asked him to put his stamp upon it. Carrera had no delicacy in the matter; and taking the passport out of my hand, threw it on the table, saying he would make me out a new one, and sign it himself. This was more than I expected; but in a quiet way, telling me to "be seated," he sent his wife into another room for the secretary, and tuld him to make out a passport for the "Consul of the North." He had an indefinite idea that I was a great man in my own country, but he had a very indefinite idea as to where that country was. I was not particular about my title, so that it was big enough; but the North was rather a broad mnge, and, to preYent mistakes, I gave the secretary my other passport. He took it into another room, and Carrera sat dol\'11 at tho table beside me. Ho had hoard of my having met Morazan on his retreat, and inquired about him, though less anxiomly than others; but he spoke more to the purposo,-said that he was making preparations, and in a week he intended to march upon S,m Salvador with 3,000 men,-adding that if he had had cannon he would have dri\'cn :Horazan from the plaza very soon. I asked him whether it was true that he and Momzan met personally on the heights of Call•ary; and he said that they did-that it was towards the last of tho l,attlc, when the latter was retreating. One of ::\Iorazan's dismounted troopers tore off his holsters; Mornzan fired a pistol at him, and he strnck at ::lforazan with his sword, and cut his saddle. Momzan, he said, had Yery handsome pistols; and it struck me that he thought if he had killed Uornzan, he would have got the pistols. I could not but think of the strange positions into which I was thrown-shaking hands and sitting side by side with men who were thirsting for each other's blood, well received by all, hearing what they s,1id of each other, and in many cases their plans and purposes, as unreservedly as if I was a trayelling member of both cabinets. In a few minntcs the secretary called him, and he went out and brought back the paFsport himself, signed with his own hand, the ink still wet. It had taken him longer than it woukl have done to cut off a head, and be seemed more proud of it. Indeed, it was the only occasion in which I saw him in the slighte&t elevation of feeling. I made a comment upon tho excellence of tl.e X 306 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. handwriting; and with his good wishes for my safe arriml in the North, and speedy retum to Guatimala, I took my leave. Now, I do not believe, if he knew what I say of him, that he would give me a very cordial welcome; but I believe him honest, and if he knew how, and c,rnlrl curb his passions, he would do more good for Central America than any other man in it. I was now fortified with the best security we could have for our joumey. "\Ye passed the evening in writing letters and packing up things to be sent home (among which was my diplomatic coat), and on the 7th of April we rose to set out. The first movement was to take clown our beds. Every man in that country has a small cot called a catre, made to double with a hinge, which may be taken down and wrapped np, with pillows and bedclothes, in an oxhicle, to carry on a journey. Our great object was to travel lightly. Every additional mule and servant gave additional trouble, but we could not do with less than a cargo-mule apiece. Each of us had two petacas, trunks made of oxhide lined with thin straw matting, having a top like that of a box, securerl. by a clumsy iron chain with large padlocks, containing, besides other things, a hammock, blanket, one pair of sheets, and pillow, which, with alforgas of provisions, made one load apiece. We carried one catre, in case of sickness. \Ve had one spare cargo-mule; the grey mule with which I had ascended the volcano of Cartago and my macho for Mr. Catherwood and myself, and a horse for relief, in all six animals; and two mozos, or men of all work, untried. While in the act of mounting, Don Saturnino Tinoca, my companion from Zonzonate, rode into the yard, to accompany us two days on our journey, '\Ve bade farewell to Mr. Savage, my first, last, and best friend, and in a few minutes, with a mingled feeling of regret and satisfaction, left for the last time the barrier of Guatimala. Don Saturnino was most welcome to our party. His purpose was to visit two brothers of his ·wife, curas, v,hom he had never seen, and who lived at Santiago Atitan, two or three clays' Journey distant. His father was the last governor of .Nicaragua under the royal rule, with a large estate, which was confiscated at the time of the revolution; he still had a large hacienda there, had brought up a stock of mules to sell at San Salvador, and intended to lay out the proceeds in goods in Guatimala. He was about forty, tall, and as thin as a man could be to have activity and vigour, wore a roundabout jacket aucl trousers of dark olive cloth, large pistols in his holsters, and a long sword with a leather scabbard, wom at the point, le:1ving about an inch of the steel naked. He sat his mule as stiff as if he had swallowed his own sword, holding the reins in his right hand, with his left arm crooked from the A DON QUIXOTE. 307 elbow, standing out like a pump-handle, the hand dropping from the wrist, and shaking with the movement of the mule. He rode on a Mexican saddle plated with silver, and cal'l'icd behind a pair of alforgas with bread and cheese, and atole, a composition of pounded parched corn, cocoa, and sugar, which, mixed with water, was almost his living. His mozo was as fat as he was lean, and wore a bell-crowned straw hat, cotton shii·t, and drawers reaching down to his knees. Excepting that instead of Rosinantc and the ass, the master rode a mule and the servant went afoot, they were a genuine Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, the former of which appellations, very early in onr acquaintance, we gave to Don Satumino. ,v c set out for Quezaltenango, but intended to turn aside and visit ruins, and that day we went three leagues ont of our road to say farewell to our friend Padre Alcantara, at Cindad Vieja. At five o'clock in the aftemoon we reached the convent, where I had the pleasure of meeting again Padre Alcantara, Senor Vidaurre, and Don Pepe, the same party with whom I had passed the day with so much satisfaction before. :tllr. Catherwood had in the meantime passed a month at the convent. Padre Alcantara had fled at the approach of the tymnt J\Iorazan; Don Pcp6 had had a shot at him as he was retreating from the Antigua, and the padre had a musket left at night by a flying soldier against the wall of the convent. The·morning opened with troubles. The grey mule was sick. Don Saturnino bled her on both sides of her neck, but the poor animal was not in a condition to be ridden. Shortly afterwards Ur. Catherwood had one of the mozos by the throat, but Padre Alcantara patched up a peace. Don Saturnina said that the grey mule would be better for exercise, and for the last time we bade farewell to our kind host. Don Pepe escorted us, and crossing the plain of El Vieja in the Jirection in which AlYarado entered it, we ascended a high hill, and turning the summit, throngh a na1T0W opening looked down upon a beautiful plain, cultivated like a garden, which opened to the left as we advanced, and ran off to the lake of Dnenos, between the two g1·eat volcanoes of Fire and Water. Descending to the plain, we entered the village of San Antonio, occupied entirely by Indians. The aura's house stood on an open plaza, with a fine fountain in front, and the huts of the Indians were built with stalks of sugarcane. Early in the occupation of' Guatimala, the lands around the capital were partitioned out among certain canonigos, and Indians were allotted to cultivate thorn. Each village was called by the canonigo's own name. A church was built, and a fine house for himself, and by judicious management tho Indians became settled and the artisans for the capital. In the stillx 2 308 TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMER1CA. noss and quiet of the village, it seemed as if tho mountains and volcanoes around had shielded it from tho devastation and alarm of war. Passing through it, on the other side of tho plain ,yo commenced a9ccnding a mountain. About hnJf way up, looking back over the village and plain, we s'.lw a single white line over tho mountain we had crossed to the Ciudad Vieja., and the range of the eye om braced the plain and lake at onr feet, the great plain of Escuiutla, the two volcanoes of Agua and Fuego, extending to the P,tcific Ocean. The rnad was very steep, and our mules laboured. On the other side of the mountain the road lay for some distance between shrubs and small trees, emerging from which \YO saw an immense plain, broken by tho track of the direct road from Guatimala, and afar off the spires of the town of Chimaltenango. At the foot of the mountain we reached tho village of Paramos. ,v e had been throe hours and a half making six miles. Don Pep6 summoned the alcalcle, showed him Carrern.'s passport, and demanded a guide to tho next village. The aloalcle called his alguazils, and in a very few minutes a guide was ready. Don Pep6 told us that he left us in Europa, and with many thanks we bade him farewell. We were now entering upon a region of country which, at the time of the conquest, was the most populous, the most civilized, and best cultivated in Guatimala. The people who occupied it were tho descendants of those found there by Alvarado, and perhaps four-fifths were Indians of untainted blood. For three centuries they had submitted quietly to the dominion of the whites, but the rising of Carrera Imel ,rnked them up to a recollection of their fathers, and it ,ms rumoured that their eyes rolled strangely upon the white men as the enemies of their race. For the first time ,rn saw fields of wheat and peach-trees. The country was poetically called Europa; and though the volcano de Agua still reared in full sight its stupendous head, it resembled the finest part of England on a magnificent scale. But it was not like travelling in England, The young man with whoso throat Mr. Catherwood had been so familiar loitered behind with the sick mule and a gun, He had started from Ciudad Vieja with a drawn knife in his hand, the blade about a foot and a half long, and we made up our minds to get rid of him; but we feared that he had anticipated us, and had gone off with the mule and gun. We waited till he came up, relieved him from the gun, and made him go forward, while we drove the mule. At the distance of two leagues we reached the Indian village of San Andres Isapa. Don Saturnino flourished Carrera's passport, introduced me as El Ministro de Nenva-York, demanded a guide, and in a few minutes an alguazil was trotting A MOLINO. 309 before us for the next village. At this village, on the same requisition, the alcalde ran out to look for an alguazil, but could not find one immcdbtely, and ventured to beg Don Saturnino to wait a moment. Don Satnrnino told him he must go himself; Carrera would cut off his head if he did not; " the minister of New York" could not be kept waiting. Don Saturuino, like many others of my friends in that country, had no very definite notions in regard to titles or places. A. man happened to be passing, whom the alcaldc pressed into service, and he trotted on before with the halter of the led horse. Don Satnrnino hurried him along; as we approached the next village Carrera's soldiers were in sight, returning on the direct road to Guatimala, fresh from the slaughter at Quezaltenaugo. Don Saturuino told the guide that he must avoid the plaza and go on to the next village. The guide begged, and Don Saturnino rode up, drew his sword, and threatened to cut his head off. The poor fellow trotted on, with his eye fixed on the uplifted sword; and when Don Saturnino turned to me with an Uncle Toby expression of face, he threw down the halter, foaped over a hedge fence, and ran toward the town. Don Saturnino, not disconcerted, caught up the halter, and, spurring his mule, pushed on. The road lay on a magnificent table-land, in some places having trees on each side for a great distance. Beyond this we had a heavy rain-storm, and late in the afternoon reached the brink of an immense precipice, in which, at a great distance, we saw the molino or wheat-mill, looking like a New-England cotton factory. The descent was very steep and muddy, winding in places close along the precipitous side of the ravine. Great care was necessary with the mules; their tendency was to descend sidewise, which was very dangerous; but in the steepest places, by keeping their heads straight, they would slip in the mud several paces, bracing their feet and without falling. At dark, wet and muddy, and in the midst of a heavy rain, we reached the molino. The major-domo was a Costa Rican, a countryman of Don Satnrnino, and, fortunately, we had a room to ourselves, though it was damp and chilly. Here we learned that 'recpan Guatimala, one of the ruined cities we wished to visit, was hut three leagues distant, and the major-domo offered to go with us in the morning. In the morning the major-domo furnished us with fine horses, and we started early. Almost immediately we commenced ascending the other side of the ravine which we had descended the night before, and on the top enterccl on a continuation of the same beautiful and extensive table-land. On one side, for some distance, were high hedge fences, in which aloes were growing, and in one place were four in full ,. 310 TR.\ VELS IN CENTRAL A1IERTCA. bloom. In an hour we arrived at Patzum, a large Indian village. Here we turned off to the right from tho high road to Mexico by a sort of by-path; but the country was beautiful, ancl in parts well cultivated. The morning "·as bracing, and the climate like a spring morning in May. The immense table-land was elevated some 5,000 or 6,000 foot, but none of those heights have over been taken. Wo passed on tho right two mounds, such as are seen in many parts of the United States, aml on the loft an immense barrunca. Tho tableland was level to the very edge, where the earth seemed to have broken off and sunk, and we looked down into a frightful abyss 2,000 or 3,000 feet deep. Gigantic trees at tho bottom of tho immense cavity looked like shrubs. At some distance beyond we passed u second of those immense barrancas, and in an hour ancl u half reached the Indian village of Tccpan Guatimala. For some distance before reaching it the road was shaded by trees and shrubs, among which were aloes thirty feet high. 'fhe long street by which we ontcrecl was paved with stones from the ruins of the old city, and filled with drunken Indians; ancl rushing across it was one with his arms around a woman's neck. At the head of this street was a fine plaza, with a large cabilclo, and twenty or thirty Indian alguazils under the corridor, with wands of office in their hands, silent, in full suits of blno cloth, the trousers open at the knees, ancl cloak with a hoocl like the Arab burnousc. Adjoining this was the large courtyard of the church, paved with stone, and the church itself was one of the most magnificent in the country. It was the second built after ihe conquest. The faqade was 200 feet wicle, very lofty, with turrets ancl spires gorgeously ornamented with stuccoed figures, ancl a high platform, on which were Indians, the firnt we had seen in picturesque costume; ancl with the widely-extended view of the country around, it was a scene of wilcl magnific ence in nuture and in art. We stopped involuntarily; and while the Indians, in mute astonishment, gazed at us, we were lost in surprise and admiration. As usuul, Don Saturnino was the pioneer, ancl we rocle up to the house of the padre, where we were shown into a small room, in which the padre was dozing in a large chai